Hi,
I have just installed this unit, but have poor FM signal.
Stations keep breaking up, and RDS is only sometimes displayed.
The car has an amplified aerial, which definitely has power to it, as i get no signal when i disconnect this 12v.
I have tried connecting an amplifier ( http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00S66GBLW ) but this doesnt seem to have improved things.
The factory fitted Nissan head unit had much better signal, but i have read that this is often the case.
The signal is worst when driving i think, which makes it hard to test things, as i think i have fixed it until i drive again!
Any advice/suggestions?
Thanks
Did you connect the Blue wire?
dogballs999 said:
Did you connect the Blue wire?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Blue wire in main loom goes to power the factory antenna amplifier in the car
I guess you mean this one
Thanks
phil001 said:
Blue wire in main loom goes to power the factory antenna amplifier in the car
I guess you mean this one
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I hadn't connected mine. When I did it improved.
That said its still pretty poor now, and I would say it now has the symptoms you describe. Weak when driving etc, I kind of decided that these units are just like that.
dogballs999 said:
Yes, I hadn't connected mine. When I did it improved.
That said it's still pretty poor now, and I would say it now has the symptoms you describe. Weak when driving etc, I kind of decided that these units are just like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, i'm also thinking that, it's a shame really.
Going to try a longer aerial as mine is quite short, but other than that i'm out of ideas
check this
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3246434
dark alex said:
check this
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3246434
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks will do
dogballs999 said:
Yes, I hadn't connected mine. When I did it improved.
That said its still pretty poor now, and I would say it now has the symptoms you describe. Weak when driving etc, I kind of decided that these units are just like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Phil,
Also check your unit factory settings for tuner configured for your locale.
I brought one this week having previously purchased a TD699G and found the reception to be fine. I did note that the autopreset worked better when I changed the factory tuner region setting from europe.
Hope this helps.
-M
hi peeps
my TD696A was a bit weak on the radio side so put inline a bootser HD-RX8 RADIO FM AM SIGNAL AMP AMPLIFIER works well did improve alot for me.
Related
hI..
I have modified the original stereo ear phone and the sounds is much better quality than original ear phone.
Just need to invest a good stereo earphone and at the same time u still can use the original stereo earphone functionality... to pick up calls etc.
Can leave my ipod at home now.
How did you modify this?
I would love to modify mine. Please explain .
What do I need in hardware ?
Tools
And Know how?
I too have modified headphones. Now I can connect any.
AD10 said:
How did you modify this?
I would love to modify mine. Please explain .
What do I need in hardware ?
Tools
And Know how?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah! Did you open the grey box, or did you "cut and past" the wires after the grey box?
PK
paalkr said:
Yeah! Did you open the grey box, or did you "cut and past" the wires after the grey box?
PK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've opened it its easy. Solder points are so obvious. Like a walk in the park..
Photo is a bit fuzzy, Long live the artemis camera!
what do you guys think of this....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290072099484&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:UK:1
I emailed the seller to ask if radio would work and he replied that it would (don't necessarily believe him though).
how to i open the case?
this will not work....the usb is mean for Motorola phone...and for Artemis...u can't plug in the whole usb adapter...
ezman said:
what do you guys think of this....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290072099484&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:UK:1
I emailed the seller to ask if radio would work and he replied that it would (don't necessarily believe him though).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
simontee said:
this will not work....the usb is mean for Motorola phone...and for Artemis...u can't plug in the whole usb adapter...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So this...
Compatible with:
1. MDA COMPACT 3, HTC P3300, O2 ORBIT, DOPOD P800W, ORANGE M650, HTC ARTEMIS 160
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
means the seller is lying?
There are 2 types of mini-USB standards I know of. One is the standard motorola one. The other is enhanced mini-USB JUST for HTC devices.
If this guy mentioned a whole list of HTC devices and picture a P3300 with it, I pretty much think that it's the real deal.
If it works for audio, radio shouldn't be a prob
DocMAX said:
how to i open the case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Put your nails between the plasic covers on the sides where the cabels come in and out. It should release pretty easy.
ezman said:
I emailed the seller to ask if radio would work and he replied that it would (don't necessarily believe him though).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might work for FM but it looks to me like it would work badly. Since the wire serves as an antenna if the extention extends the antenna length at best you'd only be able to pick up the lowest frequencies.
really? i've never found the length of the antenna caused problems for fm reception, i used to make my own so i could get better pirate radio station reception. I used to get a long piece of electrical wire, attach it to the (broken) aerial on the radio and hang it out of the window - worked every time
ezman said:
really? i've never found the length of the antenna caused problems for fm reception, i used to make my own so i could get better pirate radio station reception. I used to get a long piece of electrical wire, attach it to the (broken) aerial on the radio and hang it out of the window - worked every time
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's great! I've had to form a make-shift car radio antenna myself because some lovely person felt the need to break off the one attached. With trial-and-error 2 clothes hangers worked just fine. However antenna lenth is very important in fm reception because fm is a part of the electromagnetic spectrum that arrives in th form of a wave and: wavelength=light speed/frequency. The fm spectrum is 88MHz to 108MHz. As it turns out fm is about 3 meters in length so the optimal antenna to pick that up is 1/4 of the wave or about 75cm.
wow i haven't seen a clothes hangar aerial in ages i'm sure i used to see them all the time!
Anyway, I ordered one of these adapters and will gladly report back the results if the thing ever turns up
Hi well i got my adapter...as i promised above, here's my feedback....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290072099600
It's exactly as described, I can get FM radio, of course you can just plug in the adapter and no headphones to use the loudspeaker.
It also has a mic and a button to answer calls. The L shaped USB input is a great design compared with those sticky outy ones. Plus the length allows me to use my ex71 headphones without the really long attachment. Overall very happy Ordered last Wednesday, got it today.
Now to transfer music to that damn internal microsd
Edit: Evaluator was right, the FM reception has suffered. Though I can still get FM reception in strong areas, it's nowhere near as good as with the supplied headset. Oh well...It's still great for using as an mp3 player.
I have also purchased this little adapter and it works a treat with my Sony earphones. Radio signal is excellent and sound is phenominal compared to the standard headset.
Phone works properly with the call pickup button and the microphone allows your caller to hear you clearly.
A worthwhile purchase for £9.99 inc postage.
I replaced my motherboard recently the original was a kld1 and radio reception was poor.
I have improved reception for the kld2 v2..67, however in comparison to the factory fitted car stereo it looses reception and loc does not work. As I drive to work (30 miles) and it is annoying that I loose reception and have to manually find another frequency.
I have the factory mcu and the unit is a witson unit and I have tested that the amplified power output works.
I see some hardware mods, I would prefer a working software mcu/rom combination that worked.
If your car has an amplified antenna from the factory, you may need to add a power injector to allow it to work properly. The factory head unit could have provided power to the antenna, and these Android units do not.
Thanks. I am using this below which I takes power from switched blue/white cable in my car. This pushes 12V from the car to the aerial bypassing the need for android input.
Am I the only one with poor radio reception/loc not working?
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/attachments/2g-2006-vitara-grand-vitara/49441d1431649159-replacement-radio-aerial-issue-ct27aa50_suzuki_swift_aerial_adapter_din_female-1-.jpg
dazza007 said:
I loose reception and have to manually find another frequency.
I have the factory mcu and the unit is a witson unit and I have tested that the amplified power output works.
I see some hardware mods, I would prefer a working software mcu/rom combination that worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"Alternative frequency" (AF) function doesn't work in these HU, and it's a well known problem.
It's not a matter of a poor antenna signal, but a software (if not hardware) bug.
Attempts are being carried on by some developers to find a solution (modding the radio app), but unfortunately until now without success.
themissionimpossible said:
"Alternative frequency" (AF) function doesn't work in these HU, and it's a well known problem.
It's not a matter of a poor antenna signal, but a software (if not hardware) bug.
Attempts are being carried on by some developers to find a solution (modding the radio app), but unfortunately until now without success.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did assume that this was the case. Thank you for confirming this.
Hello.
My unit is MTCC-KLD6-V2.97(Pumpkin RQ0264) -> Update to KLD9-V2.98
My unit's GPS signal is too weak. Anyone have same problem? Or is there any solution?
Best regards.
getfeus said:
Hello.
My unit is MTCC-KLD6-V2.97(Pumpkin RQ0264) -> Update to KLD9-V2.98
My unit's GPS signal is too weak. Anyone have same problem? Or is there any solution?
Best regards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, open the unit and check that the antenna is properly soldered, I ve seen a couple of units where it had come off totally or was just hanging on by one strand of wire.
typos1 said:
Yes, open the unit and check that the antenna is properly soldered, I ve seen a couple of units where it had come off totally or was just hanging on by one strand of wire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I check my unit. But soldering is perfect.(0.01ohm each)
Can I use USB or BT bluetooth instead?
getfeus said:
I check my unit. But soldering is perfect.(0.01ohm each)
Can I use USB or BT bluetooth instead?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
? How can you use BT or USB for GPS ? Where have you put the antenna ?
Solved.
Reason is 5 inch made in china monitor.
GPS level is degrade when I turn on monitor. I dispose my monitor.
getfeus said:
Solved.
Reason is 5 inch made in china monitor.
GPS level is degrade when I turn on monitor. I dispose my monitor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry but I dont really understand what youre saying - you disposed of your monitor What monitor ? Almost all electronics are made in China, cant understand what the country of origin has to do with anything.
typos1 said:
Sorry but I dont really understand what youre saying - you disposed of your monitor What monitor ? Almost all electronics are made in China, cant understand what the country of origin has to do with anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for my poor English.
I use one monitor for my around system and this product makes large EMI noise and this noise degrade GPS level. I don't want to say brand name of monitor. So, I just say (designed and) made in china.
getfeus said:
Sorry for my poor English.
I use one monitor for my around system and this product makes large EMI noise and this noise degrade GPS level. I don't want to say brand name of monitor. So, I just say (designed and) made in china.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see, you mean an LCD screen ?
typos1 said:
I see, you mean an LCD screen ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. Reason is external LCD screen. It is not connected to my Android and my car(Using another power source).
getfeus said:
Yes. Reason is external LCD screen. It is not connected to my Android and my car(Using another power source).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, I see
typos1 said:
Yes, open the unit and check that the antenna is properly soldered, I ve seen a couple of units where it had come off totally or was just hanging on by one strand of wire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello my friend. How did you upgrade MTCC-KLD6-V2.97 to KLD9-V2.98. please send to me your new firmware. thanks.
farzadsamimi said:
Hello my friend. How did you upgrade MTCC-KLD6-V2.97 to KLD9-V2.98. please send to me your new firmware. thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Attached.
Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.
yves31 said:
Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?
fma965 said:
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you may need to use a relay to detect when reverse light is on then trigger camera via 12v connection (elsewhere) otherwise the camera will be always on
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I ordered a 12v/30amp/4pin relay and will install according to your instructions when it arrives.
fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.
yves31 said:
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA
fma965 said:
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's MTCD_KD_V2.41_1, and is already the latest version. I'll try to flash other manufacturer's MCU since most of them are compatible.
Prior to flashing, I should start by erasing current MCU settings and set to defaults. Do you know the best way to do so?
Edit:
MCU flashed to HA-2.52, but problem not changed. Seems to be a hardware issue, or compatibility issue with Prius.
I tried to wire rear camera to front video input. Image did show up, but I had to press a button each time when switching to back gear. I may have to live with the issue.
Strangely enough I have a 2010 Prius and yes I have a similar issue. Mine works almost always, but if I switch to reverse, then back to any gear, then back to reverse, more then 5-6 time during a minute, then I have the same as you. I'm pretty sure we have the same cause. If I reboot the unit everything is ok. Our situation is definitely different to the german cars as they have a detection circuit for failed bulb and that is the reason for their issues. Ours don't have that, at least ZVW30 Prius. I doubt it's the power or the camera. That is the unit itself and as you say probably poor hardware design.
Agree with you.
Additional note:
I had some issues after cross flashing MCU. Lost RDS in radio and iGo became very slow. Now I flash original KD MCU back and everything got back to normal. Cross flash MCU may not be always a good idea.
Hi you solved?
Mine do the same..its another car...more strange that mine works fine before i change battery...after that start with problems...
It switch but take 5 mins at least...
I rewire.put relay.put direct 12 and nothins..sometimes it works at second..bit after nothings....
Any help?
Thanks
Hello,
I had the same issue and check voltage. For an insane reason, the wire provided with the radar kit was totaly failing.. measured voltage was around 5 volts whereas camera required 12v ( i though to the USB volatge first, but, no!). This red&black wire, i don't known how, went to a huge resistance... may be pinch. I change for good power wire and throw away the bad one. My rear camera get back...
Bruno
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm looking for someone who knows how to rewire. You guys know a good place?
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
I have exactly same problem. But when the colors on LCD screen black : electrical noise increases. Any other color : electrical noise decreases. I will check groundings of unit in this weekend. I ll write here if i find out anything.
stinger4321 said:
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't be dirty power as it connects into the factory loom. I'll take it out at weekend and see if grounding the chassis of the head unit to the car does anything.
Andy
I had this problem on my ksp. Ultimately I found opamps under the sound processor with dirty ground on the feedback resistors. I substituted resistors to the processor board ground header lead. Now all I hear is my fan.
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
iRcKenny said:
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
ADB100 said:
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, you also have that noise before upgrading the core board, have you any chance to temporaly install another common radio like low budget Pionner, Alpine or similar? If yes check if the noise persist; some TT owners with noise from speakers said that the cause is the factory amplifier.
Have luck!
i have heard that the problem may be from the antenna, try getting a noise filter for the antenna
Record the noise with a video. Some quiet electrical noise is common, but we're talking almost silent and only when no music is playing at all.
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same thing on my A3 and although it doesn’t really bother me I’d be interested to see if someone finds a fix. On the A3’s it only affects the ones with Bose.
All my cabling is exactly the same as yours aswell.
I once emailed a company that sells the factory Bose amps for the audis and reconditions them and the bloke said that the signal sent to the Bose amp from the aftermarket headunit is different to the signal that is sent from the factory unit so I’d guess it’s something to do with that.
In regards to the dongle thing in heatshrink, that is a little board with a plug on it that the audio cables plug into. My speakers stopped working so I cut that open once and the connector had become unplugged inside. I think it’s there because the blue amp cable is connected through it aswell which is supposed to be for the amp to turn it on and that blue cable never used to be there on the older model units.
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
checksum123 said:
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same unit with the same issues. Hot Audio sent me a replacement bluetooth module to solder in. That fixed the bluetooth noise. I still have slight background hiss all the time.
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
I have an equal problem with my eonon px3 7.1, which is then klyde. Light rustling always constant, then when I register with the front usb camera the noise is much higher and seems a squeak of mouse .. I changed mb sent by them but the problem remains, even connecting the ground to the chassis of the car. Quache solution please guys, I'm going crazy.
gwaitsi said:
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ADB100 said:
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
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I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
jerrymh said:
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
gwaitsi said:
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
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You would think so wouldn't you?
I have a couple of spare SMA WiFi antennas that I can try. If I get some time later today I'll try and get the head unit out of the dash and try them. I'll post whether it makes any difference (the spare antenna I have might also be crap though...).
Andy
What I found helped is that I put some ferrite beads on the power cables to the headunit and the speaker cables from the unit. It hasn’t totally removed the issue but it is certainly better and I haven’t lost any sound quality(if anything it’s slightly better as there’s less interference).