Develop Bugs

HELP ME!! Stylus end is stuck!

:? Boy do I feel dumb.
I've been using a 3-1 stylus (from Proporta) on my M2K and today the plastic "tip" got stuck in the unit's slot! Peering down the slot using a desk-lamp I can see the tip and it's off-centre to the actual axis of the hole. It looks like the hole for the stylus is NOT a tube - but is instead merely an opening into the unit. (thinking about it - I'd noticed that the stylus tip was "awkward" to fit into the slot a couple of times - obviously it had been getting caught in the body-work).
Stupidly I've further compounded my troubles by attempting to fineagle (technical term.. ) the tip out by using a biro refill - and the tip of the biro refill got stuck in the stylus tip!!! AAARGH! :shock:
Looks like I'll need to dismantle the entire bloody unit to get this thing out - so... how do I do it, what do I need, and where can I obtain the tools??
DOH!!!!

Damm, your having one of those day's
Just as a side note.
Don’t buy or use 3 in 1 stylus, they will break the clamp in the device holding the stylus in place so the stylus gets so loose that it will slide out and in without any resistance

Check your warranty before taking your unit apart!
You'll need a T6x60 and maybe a T7x60 drive. Then search for a thread on this forum that will guide you through the dismantling process.
good luck!

nomadman said:
Check your warranty before taking your unit apart!
You'll need a T6x60 and maybe a T7x60 drive. Then search for a thread on this forum that will guide you through the dismantling process.
good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
somehow I doubt Orange will be terribly impressed with what's hapened!!!
Anyone know how much it would cost to have the unit dismantled by a repair workshop (and thus maintain the warranty)? And is there such a place in central London?

Why not try the finest tad (more technical phraseology) of super glue on the end of your 3 in 1, push in hole, wait 1 minute and pull out. It might just work and surely would have done without that biro bit. Got to be worth a try - but be frugal with the glue !
By the way, I've used a 3 in 1 form Proporta for 3 months now and the old stylus fits and is retained just the same as its always has done (just tried it).

Stylus.
Hmmm I dont remember where i bought mine, but this is the second time i need to get the 9090 to service.
There is no resistense at all, it just slide in and out by it self
They are going right to the trashbin now.
Do you have a link to where you got yours??
Bottom stylus is the original.
Much more soft in the area where the clamp goes in

Mine came from here;
http://www.proporta.com/F02/PPF02P05.php?t_id=933&t_mode=des
But having looked at your photograph, and had a good look at my stylii, the 'shoulder' is different on my original stylus and that from Proporta - just as your picky shows. Still haven't had a problem though - YET.

Don't like it that you have to take of the tip to use the pen as reset tool
The ones i got are working very good, but I just cant use them any more since they destroy the clamp.
Here's one more pic.

I don't. I just use the tip of the stylus for re-set.

If you pull out the stylus and look into the hole in the BA, does it look like white plastic clamps in your BA.
I can se 2 white plastic clamps in mine.

Yes - just the same !

Since we both have plastic clamps, my stylus clamp shoulders must be the reason for the defect in the BA.
Well then I can only say to anybody reading this thread, don't buy 3 in 1 stylus that look like the ones in the pictures :!: :!:

TIP: Use a software to reset the PPC. I use CLaunch on normal reset. During lockups, I have to use the stylus. But that's only 1out of 10 resets.
http://home.pacific.net.sg/~welic/claunch.html

nomadman - sir, sorry this is out of the topic.... i just noticed your ROM version... where did you get the ROM update for our XDA IIs?
Thanks!

YAY! Fixed it last night.
1 T6 driver and 1 small flat bladed screwdriver were all the tools necessary.
Just removed the 2 silver screws, and 3 of the black ones (the "Void" sticker was untouched) and the rear cover was loose enough to allow the very flat blade of the screwdriver in just far enough to dislodge the "item" and it just dropped out.
reassembly was easy and the only shock I got was when I turned the unit back on the emergency battery was nearly dead!! I'd only had the main battery off the unit for 5 minutes!!!! Not terribly impressed by that I have to say.

Keyboard ribbon connector on main board

I recently dismantled my BA to work on the LCD. I originally thought it would be necessary to disconnect the keyboard ribbon from the main board, so I removed the tape and black clip from the surface mount connector. However, it turned out I could leave the ribbon in place, so I didn't remove it.
After reassembly, only a few of the keyboard keys now work, and the blue LEDs no longer work at all.
I was careful not to force or twist the ribbon at all as I worked, so I don't think it's damaged, but I haven't been able to make the black clip go back on properly. I suspect this is the problem. I have tried to reseat the clip but without success and the keyboard is still the same.
Can someone please explain the role of this black clip and tape, and their relevance to the electrical connection. And can anyone direct me to a 1000x magnified picture of how the clip is supposed to fit!
Thanks in advance...

Hi there,
I had a similar problem when dissasembling one of my PPC6600 phones. The ribbon is quite dellicate, and I wound up ripping the outer conductor (it is the thicker one, and it happens to power the backlight LED's). Needless to say, I had to use a very fine tip soldering iron and some hair-fine wire to fix the mess. When I got my hands on a scrap one from EBAY (for like, 75 bucks because the ESN was locked out), I pulled the keyboard from it and replaced my hack.
Also, I have added to the WIKI a procedure to take apart the BA. I think you can find that HERE -> http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=DIS_BA_PICS
Check out the one pic that is big that shows you how to flip up the clip.
The connector you are talking about has a little black (brown?) clip that flips up 90 degrees to allow the ribbon to come out. If you didn't flip it up, you might have been able to remove the ribbon, but tough luck getting it back in. You can stick your fingernail in there where the ribbon goes, and lift up on the clip. It should pop up ad remain connected quite easily. Also, when you re-insert the ribbon, you want to make sure that the two protruding tabs on the ribbon 'seat' fully against the connector before you push the clip back down onto the ribbon.
Have fun!

When I did the work I had already seen your exellent pics (thanks ) and my black clip came right off when I lifted it. So my problem is getting the black clip back on, so that it can be flipped up and down normally again. At no time did I try to remove the ribbon so I don't think it's damaged - but I'm wondering if the black clip needs to go back properly before the electrical connection is good again.
PS to anyone dismantling BA - remember to remove both the SIM and the SD card/blank, as these both jam the cover and prevent removal - shame if someone missed this and snapped something . (I tried to add this info to the page with pics but the Edit button wouldn't let me do it - gives a "page not found" error.)

Hi again,
My phone doesn't have a SIM card (is this a European thing or are there some carriers in USA that use SIM cards?)
Anyhow, I think I remember dealing with connectors like these before and having that clip pop off. There are two little tabs on the clip that have little round buttons on each side of the clip tabs, and these buttons prodtrude off the sides of the clip. They match a slot on the connector part that is surface mounted to your mainboard. So, you have to align the clip properly so that these protruding bumps 'pop' back into the white housing on both sides. Now, if these tabs broke off.... then I guess you're outa luck, unless I guess you find some very thin plastic that you can shove in on-top of the ribbon (underneath the part of the housing where the clip SHOULD have gone), so that it pushes the exposed conductors of the ribbon down onto the connector.
Hope this helps!

Many thanks, this helps a lot by confirming (a) how the clip fits and (b) its role in the electrical connection. This information is much appreciated as it gives me a fighting chance when I next have a go at fixing the thing!
How do you get by without SIMs? Does that mean a phone is forever tied to the one provider and phone number?

yodafreak said:
My phone doesn't have a SIM card (is this a European thing or are there some carriers in USA that use SIM cards?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a GSM thing. GSM phones (like the PDA2K or SX66) use SIM cards, CDMA phones (like the PPC6600) don't.

[MOD][UPDATED][PICS] Inductive Charging with Palm Touchstone

Alright so I think I have success with the using the touchstone inductive charging dock and palm pre coil on the Incredible 2. I unfortunately dont have a camera other than the one on my phone so I will have to update this post with pictures later.
The process was fairly simple seeing as HTC did most of the work for us by exposing the 4 pins below the battery.
The top two pins are positive and the bottom two are negative (I believe as it is working for me)
I taped the palm pre coil directly to the inside of the battery cover. The top solder point on the palm pre coil's chip is negative and the bottom solder point is positive. I ran two thin wires down to the 4 posts and soldered them on. I put putty in between the 4 posts and solder points so that no flexing and shorting would occcur. The 4 posts are springy so the wires were able to move and shut the phone off on me on more then 1 occasion.
After putting the battery cover carefully back on the phone I was able to magnetically stick the phone to the touchstone without having to sand or shave the plastic. Phone has been charging for a little over an hour now and it appears to be working. Ill keep this updated in case anything changes
HOW-TO
Follow along in the pictures.
Step 1:
Remove the Inductive coil and magnets from the Palm Pre battery door. If you use the original sticky piece you can put this directly on the inside of your battery door (same way it looked on the palm pre)
Step 2:
Solder a thin black wire to the top solder point on the inductive coil chip.
Solder a thin red wire to the bottom solder point on the chip
*Note - I taped my wires down so they wouldnt bundle up and cause the back to pop up. The antennas for the cell radio are built into the battery door so if the case sticks up any you will notice a drop in reception
Step 3:
Solder the red wire to both of the two top pins.
Solder the black wire to both of the bottom two pins
Step 4:
I put putty (wall hanging blue stuff) over the solder points and in between the wires so that neither solder point would touch. If it happens the phone will shutoff and you will have to remove the battery and replace it to get the phone back on
Step 5:
Test before replacing the battery door - It is such a pain to get the cover on and off you mine as well make sure it works the first time
Step 6:
Replace the battery door and make sure it sits snug - shouldnt stick up at all.
Step 7:
PROFIT

And we have success. Overnight charging didn't produce any adverse results. Charges to 100% battery is draining at a normal rate today.
Sent from my ADR6350 using xda premium

Awesome dude. Hopefully you can post pictures soon. Time to go order a touchstone and the battery cover
Sent from my Incredible 2 using Tapatalk

I would love to see pics/a guide for this, especially since you can get both the Pre Touchstone and the inductive case for so cheap now. ~$12 not including shipping on Amazon.

I wonder if it would at all be possible to use conductive glue instead of solder, so that you wouldn't melt any plastic by accident as shown in the pictures. lol

this is great! thanks for the pics and the clear step by step tutorial. my parts are all coming in friday. can't wait to try this out. this will be great if it works the way yours does. hopefully i won't mess up anything.

Try try try again...
times_infinity said:
I wonder if it would at all be possible to use conductive glue instead of solder, so that you wouldn't melt any plastic by accident as shown in the pictures. lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah yes. Well this was a majority my fault. The soldering tip was too large and I ended up resoldering the wires two or three times do to the flexibility of the pins. Thats when i decided to put the putty between the solder points. unfortunately the damage was already done. Ive been having issues with the phone prior to doing this install so I will probably just exchange it under warranty anyhow.
Solder glue isnt a bad idea - I may pick some of that up for the replacement phone.

This looks great! Awesome work! Just picked up a Inc2. Got tired of my DX. Do you think this would work with an extended battery/door? Would definitely love to have this working.

jacket1 said:
This looks great! Awesome work! Just picked up a Inc2. Got tired of my DX. Do you think this would work with an extended battery/door? Would definitely love to have this working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Entirely depends on how much room is between the extended battery and the battery door. The pinouts and traces wouldnt change.
Ive never been a big fan of having an extended battery so I dont have one lying around to test with. Im sure if you cut a quarter of sheet of paper and then folded it 3 times it would be about the same thickness. You could slide it in there for testing.

hmm.. soo.. tried it.. be careful when doing this! i have no idea what i did wrong, maybe it was the heat from the iron (even though i made sure to lower the temp on my iron) but my phone no longer charges even through the usb. thankfully i have an extra battery with an external battery charger. but yeah this sucks.. thankfully i'm upgrading sometime next month so i'll just have to suck it up switching out batteries every time my phone dies but yeah, be careful when doing this.
EDIT: to make matters worse, it didn't even work. i'm assuming those 4 pins are pretty finicky, and that's probably where my problem lies.
EDIT2: tried to remove all excess solder from the 4 pins and now my charging is working again.. really wanting to try it again but don't want to risk messing something up more permanently this time. ahh!! don't know what to do. i already have 3 touchstones on their way. eventually i'll have to try it again. just seems like soldering for those 4 pins is gonna be a bit tricky.

Not to hate, but why hack up and solder to your phone like that? What's wrong with USB charging again?
I'm not seeing the benefit to this considering one user already broke his.

so i'm gonna try it again.. but, any tips on how i should solder the wire to those 4 little pins? that's defintiely where i messed up the first time. i'm not sure exactly what i need to make sure of when i'm soldering it.

Custom Connector
You might consider using a piece of perf board cut to size and grooved for the wires.
The stuff I use is pretty thin, but you copuld allways shave it down.
Then some of that DAP brand tacky putty to keep the board on the pins until the back is positioned.
Kind of like a mini SIM card. Then the warranty is still intact and the pins do their work.
Edit:
If your bent on hardwiring it, tin the wire (find some ear bud wire, the kind that you have to scrape to get the solder to take) first using a low rosin core very thin (0.025”) solder non lead free if you can find it.
Once the wire is tinned, form the end of the wire into a ring using an opened up paper clip.
Use a low temp soldering station to heat the wire and get the solder to flow to the terminal from the wire, adding only enough fresh solder to get the flow started.
Remember to cleanup the area with very little fluid and a Q-tip. These LCD screens are effected by too much alcohol and the rosin will etch the circuit if left dirty.

cac2us said:
Edit:
If your bent on hardwiring it, tin the wire (find some ear bud wire, the kind that you have to scrape to get the solder to take) first using a low rosin core very thin (0.025”) solder non lead free if you can find it.
Once the wire is tinned, form the end of the wire into a ring using an opened up paper clip.
Use a low temp soldering station to heat the wire and get the solder to flow to the terminal from the wire, adding only enough fresh solder to get the flow started.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like the ring idea. i'll have to try that out

cac2us said:
You might consider using a piece of perf board cut to size and grooved for the wires.
The stuff I use is pretty thin, but you copuld allways shave it down.
Then some of that DAP brand tacky putty to keep the board on the pins until the back is positioned.
Kind of like a mini SIM card. Then the warranty is still intact and the pins do their work.
Edit:
If your bent on hardwiring it, tin the wire (find some ear bud wire, the kind that you have to scrape to get the solder to take) first using a low rosin core very thin (0.025”) solder non lead free if you can find it.
Once the wire is tinned, form the end of the wire into a ring using an opened up paper clip.
Use a low temp soldering station to heat the wire and get the solder to flow to the terminal from the wire, adding only enough fresh solder to get the flow started.
Remember to cleanup the area with very little fluid and a Q-tip. These LCD screens are effected by too much alcohol and the rosin will etch the circuit if left dirty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome idea. I kind of wish I would have done it this way. Im getting a replacement soon anyway since the metal around the outside of the screen has separated and began to lift up. I may go with the sim card idea instead. that actually sounds a bit safer and more aesthetically pleasing.
---------- Post added at 09:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:43 AM ----------
shoman24v said:
Not to hate, but why hack up and solder to your phone like that? What's wrong with USB charging again?
I'm not seeing the benefit to this considering one user already broke his.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well on a lower level it can be considered innovation. Making a product do something it wasnt intended to do in the first place. I find hardware hacking to be just as much fun as software hacking.
Not to mention on those dark drunken nights when i have a hard time plugging the phone in, now all i have to do is plop it on the touchstone and i have a fully charged phone come the next morning.
Note - I tried installing this in the car using a USB adapter but it doesnt power the touchstone enough. Im looking for a dual usb to single micro usb to see if that works any better.

http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/...ryDetails&archetypeId=12663&accessoryId=47610
Then all you need is a wireless charging pad.

that adds bulk and costs way more than this mod though.
---------- Post added at 01:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:38 PM ----------
cac2us said:
You might consider using a piece of perf board cut to size and grooved for the wires.
The stuff I use is pretty thin, but you copuld allways shave it down.
Then some of that DAP brand tacky putty to keep the board on the pins until the back is positioned.
Kind of like a mini SIM card. Then the warranty is still intact and the pins do their work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
having a hard time imagining what that would look like..

shoman24v said:
http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/...ryDetails&archetypeId=12663&accessoryId=47610
Then all you need is a wireless charging pad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The bulk is what i was trying to get away from. Not to mention I had one of these already lying around from my Nexus 1 days - when this was actually a really cool mod. Im not a fan of thick devices. If you look at the one from Verizon you realize it adds some significant depth to the phone. I would however like to get my hands on one so I can see how their wiring is done.

Yeah it is noticeably thicker. Not sure how I feel about the price lol.
Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk

bik2101 said:
that adds bulk and costs way more than this mod though.
---------- Post added at 01:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:38 PM ----------
having a hard time imagining what that would look like..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is single sided copper. You might want to find double sided with plated through holes.
Edit:
To the OP,
You might want to re-up your pics without your ESN...
The fingerprint might pass tho...

Disappointed at missing lanyard hook

Coming from HD2, on which I had to apply a home-made lanyard mod, involving some insulating tape, which needs to be changed after a while due to usage, I saw with a big surprise the lanyard hole/hook in the SGS2, since I was long used to today's smartphones NOT having any safety hook whatsoever (as if it was more important to fall-protect a 30USD vanilla phone than a 700USD technological grail), so I was kinda counting on said hook on the Note as well.
Since it's not the case, I'd love for someone already owning the device to check whether it would be possible to apply such a lanyard mod somehow to the case, more specifically if insulating tape can be put so the back plastic cover keeps it in place and makes it fall-safe as needed
EDIT: Sillyw4lks proposed this mod

I would make two holes in a rubber gel case and put the strap in the case instead of the Note.

No, I can't find any good way to hook the lanyard. Perhaps a small hole in the back cover? But I wouldn't do that on mine.

maddler said:
No, I can't find any good way to hook the lanyard. Perhaps a small hole in the back cover? But I wouldn't do that on mine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would u rather loose the phone or the back cover ?

The rationale behind a lanyard is to not having to use a case at all, because you prevent the phone from falling in the first place

Couldn't you just loop some high strength fishing wire through the speaker grill on the back plate and use that to tie to a hand-lanyard (like the one on the wiimote)? My only concern would be, should it drop, if it would just rip the back plate off or actually stop the entire thing from falling.

Try the speaker hole. It doesn't cause problems for listening music/sounds.
dl.dropbox.com/u/4087751/Imagenes/note/IMG_20111107_172221.jpg
(I'm new and i can't post url's, right click/search link)
Btw, i tried only one fall and it works. The back plate resists extreme pulls.

I would be more partial to something like this, which was posted in the HD2 accessories forum a long while ago, and that has accompanied me through these couple last years. Lifesaver in a few occasions, one of which just today.
Using the speaker grill is interesting enough, I still wonder if it will actually hold in the long term. A piece of tape you can replace thousands of times, a plastic part in the case can be a pain if it gets broken.
Your idea is interesting and inspiring though, and until now sounds like the best.

drgopoos said:
Would u rather loose the phone or the back cover ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I wouldn't. But I see no other options if you absolutely want a lanyard. And I DO NOT WANT
---------- Post added at 12:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:39 PM ----------
ephestione said:
The rationale behind a lanyard is to not having to use a case at all, because you prevent the phone from falling in the first place
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Beside I'd feel quite uncomfortable with a 5 inches smartphone hanging from my neck

maddler said:
Beside I'd feel quite uncomfortable with a 5 inches smartphone hanging from my neck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
*wrist, and only when you're actually holding it, otherwise it comfortably sits in your pocket

Sillyw4lks said:
Try the speaker hole. It doesn't cause problems for listening music/sounds.
dl.dropbox.com/u/4087751/Imagenes/note/IMG_20111107_172221.jpg
(I'm new and i can't post url's, right click/search link)
Btw, i tried only one fall and it works. The back plate resists extreme pulls.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice idea.
Another place would be to loop the lanyard between the camera lens and LED flash holes on the rear case.

Cant remove links from 360 metal band

I'm unable to remove these pins from the metal 360 band. I got one link out. This pin is almost out but no matter what I do it will not budge
pliers nothing. It wont even let me push it back into place. I have been using a watch kit to hold the links and such..
None of the other pins will come out either, theyre like stuck in place.
I have the silver version btw
Anyone have any suggestions?

I just saved myself the aggrivation and took it to a jeweler. Cost me 20 bucks. If you don't have a pin removal tool it can be difficult to do without marring up the band.

thebobmannh said:
I just saved myself the aggrivation and took it to a jeweler. Cost me 20 bucks. If you don't have a pin removal tool it can be difficult to do without marring up the band.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the pin removing tool. I removed one link already. not sure why this one pin will not come out. my tool is seated in as far as it can and the pin is practically half or 3/4 way out
ya I think ill be taking it to a jeweler or watch shop

tlxxxsracer said:
I have the pin removing tool. I removed one link already. not sure why this one pin will not come out. my tool is seated in as far as it can and the pin is practically half or 3/4 way out
ya I think ill be taking it to a jeweler or watch shop
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bent the crap out of hte first pin i pulled out (I have 15 watches and have adjusted every one of their bands) but for some reason that one pin was just a pain in the ass. After it bent to all hell trying to pull it out with pliers because it was stuck, I ended up using another pin to push it though and it came out with little resistance.

I have a watch repair kit and the pins were small than what the tools were made for. So after watching a video on YouTube, I just used one of the spare pins and hammered that into the holes to punch out the other pins.

Extra link anyone?/
Does anyone here have an extra link for the black metal band??