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So I've got to give credit to the fine folks over at the Nexus S forum for giving inspiring the idea. I am a fan of keeping my phone caseless but I'm also a fan of keeping the scratches away. I bought a can of plasti dip in black and sprayed the back cover of the phone. The inside I sprayed 3 coats and the outside I believe 5. I held the can away from the cover about 15 inches while spraying for an even coat. Let it dry 30 mins between coats and sit 4-5 hours when I was finished just as the can said. It turned out great as you can see and now has a scratch proof rubberized cover. The rubber simply peels off if I ever want to remove it.
Looks good, not a bad idea at all. You say you sprayed the inside of the cover as well? Wouldn't think you would need to bother with the inside, why did you cover the inside. Take care.
smsparks said:
Looks good, not a bad idea at all. You say you sprayed the inside of the cover as well? Wouldn't think you would need to bother with the inside, why did you cover the inside. Take care.
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I sprayed the inside as well so it wouldn't start to peel on the edges. It fits just as snug as it did before despite being sprayed inside too. =) I did cover the hole for the speaker before spraying
How well does it slide in and out of your pocket? Is there any spray that would be more of a soft-touch rubber feel?
icedwhiskey said:
How well does it slide in and out of your pocket? Is there any spray that would be more of a soft-touch rubber feel?
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It slides in and out just fine. It's just grippy enough to not slide around on my seat as I'm driving. The best thing is if it gets annoying or I want to change it the stuff just simply peels off
i've used plastidip plenty of times on things, and i dont know about the durability of that over time. I use it on emblems on cars to black them out and stuff and small rock chips etc pull it off fairly easily. Plus the finish usually isnt too smooth. i'd rather spend 20 and get the feather case....i can peel that off too
seriouslyjeff said:
I am a fan of keeping my phone caseless but I'm also a fan of keeping the scratches away.
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How do you plan to keep that arpo over 70 if you don't sell any cases? lol.
link12245 said:
How do you plan to keep that arpo over 70 if you don't sell any cases? lol.
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Lmao! If we had more than zero cases in the store I would sell em! I take it you work for att too?
poor phone looks like my grandpa's truck bed now.
falconeight said:
poor phone looks like my grandpa's truck bed now.
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Too bad it can't haul
case companies need to stop making ugly ass cases and make some back cover replacements.
First one to make a soft-touch back cover with kick stands wins my money
Very cool idea! I decided just to wet sand the back cover to keep it looking like carbon fiber AND to make it a little easier to grip on to - pics are in the link on my signature.
I don't know if I agree with spraying the inside too just to get the edges uniform.... spraying the inside (and, well, the outside too I guess) will help trap in heat, something you don't want when charging a phone with a dead battery because this thing gets HOT as it is!
Also, I don't know if I would advertise the ability to simply peel the rubberized coating right off if you want to remove it. I've used this stuff dozens of times, I actually have my race car's tow hook covered in it, and that thing sees a LOT of abuse, but doesn't come right off.... If you can use this stuff to protect against giant metal hooks scratching off the coating with exactly as many dips in the can as you have layers of spray, I doubt this stuff would come off completely without a fight!
seriouslyjeff said:
Lmao! If we had more than zero cases in the store I would sell em! I take it you work for att too?
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Yes sir. We also have no cases, no accessories, but do have a few of the phones left.
GarciaM25 said:
Very cool idea! I decided just to wet sand the back cover to keep it looking like carbon fiber AND to make it a little easier to grip on to - pics are in the link on my signature.
I don't know if I agree with spraying the inside too just to get the edges uniform.... spraying the inside (and, well, the outside too I guess) will help trap in heat, something you don't want when charging a phone with a dead battery because this thing gets HOT as it is!
Also, I don't know if I would advertise the ability to simply peel the rubberized coating right off if you want to remove it. I've used this stuff dozens of times, I actually have my race car's tow hook covered in it, and that thing sees a LOT of abuse, but doesn't come right off.... If you can use this stuff to protect against giant metal hooks scratching off the coating with exactly as many dips in the can as you have layers of spray, I doubt this stuff would come off completely without a fight!
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I don't know about it overheating at all although I haven't noticed any problems. As far as it peeling off it peels off without a hitch.. almost too easy, I am going to sand the back of the case in hopes that it will stick a little better. I assume the glossy cover makes it easy to peel but I've peeled it off and sprayed it again already once.
andy2na said:
case companies need to stop making ugly ass cases and make some back cover replacements.
First one to make a soft-touch back cover with kick stands wins my money
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Dude yes I am totally with you!
andy2na said:
case companies need to stop making ugly ass cases and make some back cover replacements.
First one to make a soft-touch back cover with kick stands wins my money
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+2 !!!!!!!
How is it holding up, 2 weeks later?
Ah sorry for the late response. It was holing up pretty well. I peeled it off a few days ago due to it peeling.. I think I might lightly sand the back first this time
Sent from my Google Nexus S using XDA App
Good idea and all but why would you not buy a rubberized case instead (replaces battery door). I have seen a dozen shops selling them in the US but none that ship (or none afford-ably yet) to Australia.
mrinternet said:
Good idea and all but why would you not buy a rubberized case instead (replaces battery door). I have seen a dozen shops selling them in the US but none that ship (or none afford-ably yet) to Australia.[/QUOeditTE]
Oh because when I did it 6 weeks ago (right after release of the phone) there were none available
Edit: I misread. I don't like cases. They make the phone too bulky. I now use best skins ever. This peeled off after about a week each time I did it.
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Ok everyone this will be my first mod-accessory, for a mobile device and i am looking for some input. I want the best of both of these two cases and am pretty sure that the end result will be some kick arsenic case loved by most people. Check my video out it says all I am trying to do. http://youtu.be/DZOKjY2YMzg
Fix your audio, get prepared, get to the point and try again. Oh and gorilla glue? Couldn't tell what you wanted to use it for, but not a good idea. It expands.
Kerns_JW said:
Fix your audio, get prepared, get to the point and try again. Oh and gorilla glue? Couldn't tell what you wanted to use it for, but not a good idea. It expands.
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I am wanting some input on how to go about using the inner top portion on the power-skin replacing the same area on the powerskin with the d3o portion. I know gorilla glue expands but nothing a razor blade can't fix after it cures.
Too many ideas, can you narrow it down?
Hard plastic kept or not?
Can hard plastic be removed if needed?
Room under the top section for an additional layer? Snug or decent room
Let's talk glue again. Wouldn't something that remains flexible be preferred?
Kerns_JW said:
Too many ideas, can you narrow it down?
Hard plastic kept or not?
Can hard plastic be removed if needed?
Room under the top section for an additional layer? Snug or decent room
Let's talk glue again. Wouldn't something that remains flexible be preferred?
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Yeah I was thinking about losing the hard white plastic of the d3o and using the inner flexible black part. Right about the glue now that I think about it, will need some flexibility-any ideas on type of adhesive? I am thinking with the addition of the inner layer and losing the back phone coverage it will be comfortable in fit.
Sent from SGS II 4G Jelly Bean 4.1.1
okay
Cut off half of old and put on top of newer one. Issue looks dumb and unfinished. Use some type of cord to clean up the edge. Still may look bad and by removing hard plastic look nasty due to glue remains. Due to shown cracks, it's not likely you can use as hard case on top of new rubber.
Under newer one instead. Issue, it would look and feel off I think because of hump added. Maybe not sure due to hump caused by battery? Could be similar.
Fix cut old one slightly bigger than new hole. Glue edges only. Issue bump created around current lip from New hole.
Fix cut same size as new hole add inner layer such as felt. Glue piece to felt, felt to new inside part. If cut well and placed well, old piece fills void reduces lip. Issue of bad cut, looks bad. Cut slightly larger than hole and slowly trim to fit. Try to get edges to squash well together. Still may have nasty glue remains from removal of hard plastic. Fix may be tough to do and look off. Keep plastic attached, Trim both plastic and rubber to shape of hole and fit in hole. Use felt again as backer.
Eliminate felt use, trim plastic to hole, trim rubber slightly bigger. Glue old rubber to plastic and edges of old rubber to inside of new hole. Essentially, use old rubber as backer instead of felt. May still cause that hump around edge of new hole.
Fill hole with old piece as described above eliminate felt use, plastic if desired, and over size of old rubber. Create complete new back instead to glue piece to. Then glue this new back to the back of new case. This will cover up the old glue remains, bad possible cutting and lip issues. Tricky part, what to use for new back.
What's the inside of old case look like? Could it be used to create new back layer? If not sure where I am going, look at the back of a ballistic case.
Glue depends on decided application. If new back than semi rigid glue would work well. They have super glue that stays flexible. Rubber cement too flexible I think.
What would you suggest be my line of going forward? Cut the lip and buttons off the d3o
Sent from SGS II 4G Jelly Bean 4.1.1
Tough to say without being there and knowing the actual layout. Your video just made it to hard to see. Since the plastic is borked and underneath may be glued, you may want to hit up one of the mall vestibules and see if you can find some knock off cover that works to your needs.
Yeah I will probably grab some cheap cases similar & do some mock ups to get a feel for what it will be like. I'll post some pictures of my progress.
Sent from SGS II 4G Jelly Bean 4.1.1
Hello everyone
I had an idea about using my phone under water to take pics and videos etc. I'm a little paranoid about the flaps coming open though.
I was wondering if anyone had come across a case that covers all of the flaps but still gives access to the shutter button?
Also if not, have you guys got any ideas as to ways of guaranteeing that they stay closed?
I know it's a bit of an odd request! Lol
Thanks in advance for any help!
Will
I had sourced this out in Fall last year, and every single case I could find had the cutouts for ports open.
The only solution I had found was a company that 3D prints their cases, and I asked them if they could make me one without the holes cut out. They said yes, but the case was $50 plus $20 shipped, and would be ready in 3 months (due to backlog of their 3D printer).
I never went through with the order, but it can be done. Here's why:
Mentioned by the above company, this will cause additional wear and tear on your device, because while your goal is trying to keep the water out, waters' goal is to try to get in, and if successful, even with the flaps closed, that case is going to hold it there. Moisture will now be locked in against the case and phone, and can cause issues such as paint protection, fogging and possibly water damage.
My advice:
You're best just grabbing some medical tape from a medical supply store, and using that to keep the flaps closed. Medical tape is waterproof, similar to a band aid, but has only a slight adhesive to it, so it comes off easily without damage to your screen protector or phone itself. It's perforated so it's super easy to tear by hand too.
http://www.amazon.ca/Complete-Medic...8&qid=1423238156&sr=8-5&keywords=medical+tape
NOTE: Do NOT buy cotton tape, or lower quality "medical tape", as most are designed for plaster casting and have a very strong adhesive to them. They WILL damage your phone and possibly tear off your protector, damaging it. Look in low quality first aid kits at whatever "big box store" you want (WalMart, etc.). The cotton tape is white, and requires the use of scissors or a knife to cut. That is the **** stuff. If you can't easily tear it off in a straight edge by hand, it's not the correct stuff.
Alright so I'm sure everyone who has the leather back and has not put a cover on it yet can see that the leather back is getting dirty.
It might be just me but i have the brown leather back. The stitches have gotten blackish and not white like they were in the beginning and the back just keeps getting a darker shade!
Any of you guys try to clean it? If so how'd you do it?
Is it okay to take the back off and clean it under water?
Or should i use windex.
I don't wanna ruin the leather attempting to clean it!
Areebkhan said:
Alright so I'm sure everyone who has the leather back and has not put a cover on it yet can see that the leather back is getting dirty.
It might be just me but i have the brown leather back. The stitches have gotten blackish and not white like they were in the beginning and the back just keeps getting a darker shade!
Any of you guys try to clean it? If so how'd you do it?
Is it okay to take the back off and clean it under water?
Or should i use windex.
I don't wanna ruin the leather attempting to clean it!
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DO NOT USE WINDEX OR RUN WATER. That will ABSOLUTELY ruin your leather.
I bought a cheap bottle of leather treatment from CVS for about $6. You spray two coats on it, and you're good to go. It actually gave the leather a nice, grippy-er, feel. And it helps protect from wetness. After that, you should be able to use any type of leather cleaner to keep it looking fresh.
chadbot3k said:
DO NOT USE WINDEX OR RUN WATER. That will ABSOLUTELY ruin your leather.
I bought a cheap bottle of leather treatment from CVS for about $6. You spray two coats on it, and you're good to go. It actually gave the leather a nice, grippy-er, feel. And it helps protect from wetness. After that, you should be able to use any type of leather cleaner to keep it looking fresh.
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HAHAHA!!
THANK YOUU!
I knew it was good to ask before doing something!
So cleaning it with that leather treatment gives it the shine back aswell?
chadbot3k said:
DO NOT USE WINDEX OR RUN WATER. That will ABSOLUTELY ruin your leather.
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chadbot3k said:
DO NOT USE WINDEX OR RUN WATER. That will ABSOLUTELY ruin your leather.
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chadbot3k said:
DO NOT USE WINDEX OR RUN WATER. That will ABSOLUTELY ruin your leather.
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Quoted for emphasis. Definitely a very good thing that the OP asked.
I use Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Aloe Cleaner followed by Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Aloe Conditioner. Yes, I do my own auto detailing, and yes, I hate it when people use cleaners inappropriately and screw up whatever they were trying to clean. My parents are seriously guilty of that and it left me with cleaning-related faux-PTSD flashbacks decades later.
The G4's back wasn't shiny from the factory, but certain cleaners will produce a slight matte sheen on the leather.
Areebkhan said:
HAHAHA!!
THANK YOUU!
I knew it was good to ask before doing something!
So cleaning it with that leather treatment gives it the shine back aswell?
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Yes, it will keep your leather back looking mostly new. Most importantly it will protect against getting wet, which will stain your leather.
Any kind of leather treatment that adds a "shine" is no good in my eyes. I have had a few european luxury cars and i can tell you this...best thing i have ever used to clean my seats and other areas has been...BABYWIPES!!
Seriously it does not take away from the natural state or satin look of the leather and actually clean it very well. If it good enough for your babys ass.....its good enough for the skin on your phone!
You dont have to take my word for it though.
BTW got it wet today. there was a slight dark spot for a fe minutes but went away fully
Snakecharmed said:
I use Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Aloe Cleaner followed by Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Aloe Conditioner. Yes, I do my own auto detailing, and yes, I hate it when people use cleaners inappropriately and screw up whatever they were trying to clean. My parents are seriously guilty of that and it left me with cleaning-related faux-PTSD flashbacks decades later.
The G4's back wasn't shiny from the factory, but certain cleaners will produce a slight matte sheen on the leather.
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These kinds of products are unavailable outside the US so we need alternatives.
What do you make of the advice given in this video ?
House hold items available in any country.
white vinegar to clean
shaving foam to remove ink stains
corn starch to remove grease
From the user manual
This product is made of cattle hide and may have different creases and patterns due to the properties of natural leather. If the product gets wet with any liquid (water, soda, seawater, rain, sweat, sunscreen, cosmetics, moisture, etc.), it may lose colour, change colour, or deform in shape.
When this product gets wet or contaminated, get rid of the water by pressing it gently with a dry towel, or wipe it with leather cream and leave it to dry in shade. When the product is exposed to a wet environment for a long time, it may cause creases or mould. The shape of the leather may not be restored to its original state after cleaning because of the properties of leather, and any contamination or deformity may get worse when using regular detergent or an organic solvent.
When the leather is wet with rain or sweat, use caution and avoid contact with clothes. It can cause any dye to become a stain.
Due to the nature of leather, friction for long periods of time or excessive force may damage the surface of the leather.
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This is an important thread or there's going to be a few unhappy people later on.
I used new baseball glove condtioner.
Sent from my VS986 using XDA Free mobile app
what i got is you need a cleaner and then a conditioner.
the cleaner to remove stains and a conditioner to maintain the material.
Mr clean magic eraser to clean it. That's what we use in the automotive detailing world
Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk
I don't know how I feel about the advice in the video. Those suggestions are very common, but I haven't tried them personally. People have conflicting things to say about the extreme acidity of vinegar against the mild acidity of leather, which is why you need to dilute the vinegar in the first place. One alternate suggestion I've read is to use Woolite 10:1 to 6:1 (water:Woolite). Another I've read is Dove soap. Don't use saddle soap, which has a pH level way too basic for leather cleaning.
What I can say is that you should use a soft terry or microfiber cloth to apply the cleaning solution, then wipe it off with a dry cloth. Don't apply a solution directly to the leather and don't apply too much at once. Even the moisture from a water-dampened cloth isn't the worst thing in the world if you're just quickly wiping on and off. Just don't soak the leather in anything, like running it under a stream of water. It's too porous to not absorb it. Once it's clean, condition it so you have some kind of protection from future stains.
As clichéd as this sounds, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I'm not a super clean freak, but I try to keep my hands clean when I handle the G4. I don't touch the back of it while eating and I try to keep it away from beverages. However, I'm planning to get a plastic back for the G4 as my regular back cover and only use the leather occasionally.
Snakecharmed said:
I don't know how I feel about the advice in the video. Those suggestions are very common, but I haven't tried them personally. People have conflicting things to say about the extreme acidity of vinegar against the mild acidity of leather, which is why you need to dilute the vinegar in the first place. One alternate suggestion I've read is to use Woolite 10:1 to 6:1 (water:Woolite). Another I've read is Dove soap. Don't use saddle soap, which has a pH level way too basic for leather cleaning.
What I can say is that you should use a soft terry or microfiber cloth to apply the cleaning solution, then wipe it off with a dry cloth. Don't apply a solution directly to the leather and don't apply too much at once. Even the moisture from a water-dampened cloth isn't the worst thing in the world if you're just quickly wiping on and off. Just don't soak the leather in anything, like running it under a stream of water. It's too porous to not absorb it. Once it's clean, condition it so you have some kind of protection from future stains.
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Thanks. Even with various leather cleaners around its a tricky affair to do it properly for the layperson. Not impossible. As long as one is aware.
As clichéd as this sounds, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I'm not a super clean freak, but I try to keep my hands clean when I handle the G4. I don't touch the back of it while eating and I try to keep it away from beverages.
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hehe, this advice will fall on deaf ears as its impossible to follow. Force of habit. it no secret that keyboards and touch screens contain more bacteria than toilet seats
However, I'm planning to get a plastic back for the G4 as my regular back cover and only use the leather occasionally.
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Bingo! thats is the conclusion i'm reaching too. The idea of leather is fantastic but if you want to look good then be prepared to put in the work.
Leather is just not that practical for day to day in a phone usage scenario..
But it looks so good <sigh>
One of the things I've learned in both buffing/polishing and interior detailing is to not work too large of a surface area at once. You don't want to let a product set or dry before you can work on it. The product ends up being harder to remove and/or stains your surface.
When it comes to patina, the issue for me is that the leather surface is small, so any marks will be more visible. I look at my travel wallet, which I haven't used much, and I'm annoyed that there is wear on one of its corners and the color has rubbed off. I'm far less concerned about a scuff on the seat in my car. Still, I don't own any leather furniture because of the upkeep required.
There are photos one of the Android Central staff posted of a used brown leather Moto X. I don't think it looks bad, and if it came that way out of the box, I don't think anyone would have thought it was dirty. If you're like me though, you like keeping things looking like new. I'm getting better about conditioning or protecting new leather products before wearing them or breaking them in.
The black leather G4 cover would be much more forgiving with stains, but aside from lack of carrier availability, I only would have preferred that version if it had contrasting stitching.
Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm a complete noob at this and have no idea where to start. I was thinking of getting the leather honey conditioner from Amazon, but still wasn't sure if that would be appropriate. No clue where to begin on cleaners. I have the black leather back btw
xbayyx said:
Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm a complete noob at this and have no idea where to start. I was thinking of getting the leather honey conditioner from Amazon, but still wasn't sure if that would be appropriate. No clue where to begin on cleaners. I have the black leather back btw
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I've had a bottle of Leather Honey since about 2000 (before they changed the name), and that's what I used on my leather back. It didn't darken the tan leather (unfortunately), though it did make it a bit sticky for a bit. If you go this route, apply it sparingly before going to bed.
Since this is a thread about cleaning, I feel obligated to mention that product is for protecting leather only, although I believe the same company makes a cleaning product as well.
So the first step to any repair of the M8 seems to be removing the top an bottom grills to get at the screws so you can separate the back from the bulk of the phone.
These grill backs apparently have adhesive on them.
I know you can purchase replacement grills that have adhesive on the back already, so you can clean up the old stuff and pop the new ones on.
That seems like a waste however and I wanted to know if the existing adhesive will re-bond when heated and, if not what type of adhesive can be used to apply to make it stick back?
thanks
TraderJack said:
So the first step to any repair of the M8 seems to be removing the top an bottom grills to get at the screws so you can separate the back from the bulk of the phone.
These grill backs apparently have adhesive on them.
I know you can purchase replacement grills that have adhesive on the back already, so you can clean up the old stuff and pop the new ones on.
That seems like a waste however and I wanted to know if the existing adhesive will re-bond when heated and, if not what type of adhesive can be used to apply to make it stick back?
thanks
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It will bond again - well, partly... If you don't damage to much while removing. Better buy some standard double-sided adhesive tape for phone repairs, something like this: https://eustore.ifixit.com/Werkzeuge/Verbrauchsmaterialien/3M-Doppelseitiges-Klebeband-2-mm-Breite.html
Regards
Yeah I saw this stuff on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Eco-Fused-Adhesive-Sticker-Phone-Repair/dp/B00BXYWXY8
I wondered if that was the right type of stuff.
It almost seems like the back of the grills could be coated with some type of rubber cement that covers the entirety of the back.
Ofc, you couldn't apply it like that without gumming up the speaker holes. I haven't actually seen a replacement one yet so I don't know if the adhesive is applied in just a couple strips or is actually applied to the whole back.
I think I'll probably just try to get it to rebond and if it looks horrible I'll invest in either the tape or new grills. New grills will actually be cheaper, but the tape I'll be able to use again for multiple purposes.
thanks.
btw be careful with the screws underneath the grill. When putting it back together you can easily break the screw threads.
---------- Post added at 12:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:01 AM ----------
a couple of strips is enough, no need to smear the whole thing
So minimal torque on those screws? Same throughout the whole device I gather?
I generally don't over-tighten screws in most electrical gadgets and am often peeved at how tight they come out of the factory. While these things get a lot of bouncing around in pockets and such, they aren't high performance vehicles. I'm even more amazed when I find a (non laptop) computer which needs the damn Hulk to remove something from it