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OK - I've been using the ATT store Body Glove case since I bought the Captivate, which is ok but I don't really like the stripes on the back, and it is a bit too slippery for me.
I just ordered the Seidio case because it has more of a matte finish and I liked the felt interior. So I don't know if I like it or not.
A few minutes ago I took the phone out of it's case to dust it and clean out the case when I got a call. I was surprised at how slim the phone felt without it's Body Glove case on. I liked it. But I also found it a bit slippery. ( A speaker phone call was put on the arm of the chair I was in - with the case it would hold - without it slid away)
Now I am wondering if I should just use some skateboard tape or something similar on key areas to allow me to set it down and hold it comfortably (where it won't slip) instead of using a case. I don't use a screen protector and I don't think this phone needs it.
Any comments or suggestions?
Now that I've thought about it for a few minutes - I think what I want is a rubberized battery cover. That would be the bomb.
I don't use a case on mine and I've yet to get a single scratch on the front or back - the glass is very tough. I cringe at having to use a case, losing accuracy, clarity, and brightness on the screen and having to touch through that...having it hard to slip in and out of my pocket...not looking as nice. It's like if your wife made you use a condom every time.
just "paint" it with some Elmer's Rubber Cement. Im really kidding but I'm with you I like the feel of the phone and I hate the rubber case I got it makes it a pain to get in and out of the pocket. Personally I plan on selling this phone in a couple of months so I want it in good condition.
vsboxerboy1 said:
I don't use a case on mine and I've yet to get a single scratch on the front or back - the glass is very tough. I cringe at having to use a case, losing accuracy, clarity, and brightness on the screen and having to touch through that...having it hard to slip in and out of my pocket...not looking as nice. It's like if your wife made you use a condom every time.
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Click to collapse
Agreed that the screen is fine on its own. But I still think the back needs some help.
Also, I do not like condoms. Neither do my wife and kids.
Ah, well I saw something a while back where someone basically took four little rubber/plastic stickers and put one on each corner of the back of the phone to lift the back up off whatever surface you set it on just a hair. I would imagine that you'd get good traction with that too - I can't seem to find the exact application of it though......
This thread is mostly me think out loud.
I believe that what I want is a rubberized battery cover.
The cover is slightly recessed - it is lower then the bottom locking section and the top section with the camera. It also wraps around the sides almost 1/2 of the way.
I think that if the battery cover were coated with a rubberized, non-slip material, it would be better. If the rubberization made the cover stick out slightly, rather than be recessed, it would allow the phone to be set on it's back and not slide away and keep the camera off the deck. Also, the wrap around side parts of the cover would help when holding the phone.
Now, can someone tell me of a place/process that might do this? (Not rubber cement but close) My pickup has a Rhino Lining coating that I love. There is a place nearby that does that work but the coating is like 1/8-1/4 inches and that is a bit to thick for the phone.
Any Ideas?
http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1150/Product/GUN_KOTE_trade__OVEN_CURE__GUN_FINISH
http://www.goboatingamerica.com/products/DM_article.asp?id=3645
Found these
Bought this stuff at Home Depot.
Then tested in on this beer can. I didn't clean or prep the can, just picked it up off of the floor.
This is 5 coats. It is still thin. Dries fast and feels just about how I'd like it to. Not tacky - sort of a hard rubber feel. It is flexible, the can bends and the stuff stays with it.
It can be scratched, you may be able to see a scratch I made with my nail. It didn't go all the way through to the can though - and I had to scratch hard. It looks like it would be easy to spray another coat over any scuffs.
I plan to do the back of the battery cover - thick enough to make it a bit taller than the top and bottom sections of the phone. The way it is going it seem like that may take 15+ coats. I'll keep testing.
Two things about that though, the battery cover is used not only as the speaker output but the battery cover itself also dissipates a good amount of the heat that the phone generates. You probably want to be a more careful than usual in designing something that is going to smother this part of the phone.
not sure how much you're looking to spend but I put the Zagg total protection on mine. You get full protection on your phone but you can't see it, so you still get the sleek look and it's still very thin as well. The clear plastic is also great for gripping, I can set it on the dash of my car and drive normally and it won't budge.
I've had good luck with bestskinsever.com
Used it on my Nexus One and the fit was good, buddy got one for his vibrant and the fit is good as well.
journeyman82 said:
not sure how much you're looking to spend but I put the Zagg total protection on mine. You get full protection on your phone but you can't see it, so you still get the sleek look and it's still very thin as well. The clear plastic is also great for gripping, I can set it on the dash of my car and drive normally and it won't budge.
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Looks interesting. I wish they had the leather skin for the captivate. I would be all over that. In fact I may need to take a trip to the fabric store to see what they have.
Thanks.
Ok to finish up my saga...
I liked the faux leather on the cover mentioned in the post above so I went to the fabric store and ended up with some black, I believe they call it marbled vinyl. It looked and felt similar to the back of a blackberry I once held.
I tested it on my trusty Busch Light can with some 3M spray adhesive and it seemed to hold fairly well.
So I went for it. I taped off the inside and the prongs of the battery cover. Sprayed glue on the cover and the back of a piece of vinyl cut too big. Stuck it on and smoothed it out. I sat the cover on a bag of rice and and put a bag of brown sugar on top (to push around the curves) and topped it off with a gallon jug of tile grout.
Waited an hour, probably longer than needed, and used a pointy x-acto knife to trim off the excess. I had also put a piece of tape over the speaker holes so I cut that back open to. The underside of the vinyl has a white background so once it was trimmed to fit I went around the edges with a fine tipped sharpie, which blended well.
Overall I like it. It is just a bit thinker that the top and bottom bands, so if you lay her on her back those parts don't touch a flat table. It has a leathery, grippy feel without being tacky, which is what I was going for. I do already miss the front edge lip that the Body Golve provided but it is also almost it;s original thickness.
Pics below. (Sorry about the crappy last pic. I had the phone with new back all set up on a white surface, ready for it's glamor shot, when I realized that the phone is my camera)
Staplebox: great job!
Wow that is a nice, careful job.....
staplebox said:
Ok to finish up my saga...
I liked the faux leather on the cover mentioned in the post above so I went to the fabric store and ended up with some black, I believe they call it marbled vinyl. It looked and felt similar to the back of a blackberry I once held.
I tested it on my trusty Busch Light can with some 3M spray adhesive and it seemed to hold fairly well.
So I went for it. I taped off the inside and the prongs of the battery cover. Sprayed glue on the cover and the back of a piece of vinyl cut too big. Stuck it on and smoothed it out. I sat the cover on a bag of rice and and put a bag of brown sugar on top (to push around the curves) and topped it off with a gallon jug of tile grout.
Waited an hour, probably longer than needed, and used a pointy x-acto knife to trim off the excess. I had also put a piece of tape over the speaker holes so I cut that back open to. The underside of the vinyl has a white background so once it was trimmed to fit I went around the edges with a fine tipped sharpie, which blended well.
Overall I like it. It is just a bit thinker that the top and bottom bands, so if you lay her on her back those parts don't touch a flat table. It has a leathery, grippy feel without being tacky, which is what I was going for. I do already miss the front edge lip that the Body Golve provided but it is also almost it;s original thickness.
Pics below. (Sorry about the crappy last pic. I had the phone with new back all set up on a white surface, ready for it's glamor shot, when I realized that the phone is my camera)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
love it, im stealing that!
Go for it. Usually I prefer to buy a second of whatever I am defacing before I deface it but I didn't find any battery covers online. I also didn't look to hard.
It is still on and I still like it. The only thing I don't like too much are the sides. I completely covered the back, right up to the side edges. It is a perfect thickness on the back but feels too thick on the sides. I wish I could have found a thinner material that I could have built up on the back and tapered to one layer on the sides. I really wanted grippyness on the sides so, oh well, it's good enough.
I'm still on the look out for a better spray on rubber. I'll update if I find anything good.
Hopefully someone will start making aftermarket battery covers with some options.
Thanks and good luck,.
Second the stealing. Awesome idea and writeup. Thanks for sharing.
From a phone on an app
I scrapped the vinyl. The edges were just bugging me to much. I still think a thinner material would work well though.
I cleaned up the cover - looked fine again with all the glue off of it.
I went back to the rubber spray. I've got about 8 coats on in the attached pic. Need to wait about 30 min in between coats. I'll keep going until I go to sleep, let it dry overnight - and test it out tomorrow.
ETA - put it on the phone the today. Love it. Doesn't add any bulk and provides a grippyness to the back and sides. I'll find out how durable it is.
Ok everyone this will be my first mod-accessory, for a mobile device and i am looking for some input. I want the best of both of these two cases and am pretty sure that the end result will be some kick arsenic case loved by most people. Check my video out it says all I am trying to do. http://youtu.be/DZOKjY2YMzg
Fix your audio, get prepared, get to the point and try again. Oh and gorilla glue? Couldn't tell what you wanted to use it for, but not a good idea. It expands.
Kerns_JW said:
Fix your audio, get prepared, get to the point and try again. Oh and gorilla glue? Couldn't tell what you wanted to use it for, but not a good idea. It expands.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am wanting some input on how to go about using the inner top portion on the power-skin replacing the same area on the powerskin with the d3o portion. I know gorilla glue expands but nothing a razor blade can't fix after it cures.
Too many ideas, can you narrow it down?
Hard plastic kept or not?
Can hard plastic be removed if needed?
Room under the top section for an additional layer? Snug or decent room
Let's talk glue again. Wouldn't something that remains flexible be preferred?
Kerns_JW said:
Too many ideas, can you narrow it down?
Hard plastic kept or not?
Can hard plastic be removed if needed?
Room under the top section for an additional layer? Snug or decent room
Let's talk glue again. Wouldn't something that remains flexible be preferred?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I was thinking about losing the hard white plastic of the d3o and using the inner flexible black part. Right about the glue now that I think about it, will need some flexibility-any ideas on type of adhesive? I am thinking with the addition of the inner layer and losing the back phone coverage it will be comfortable in fit.
Sent from SGS II 4G Jelly Bean 4.1.1
okay
Cut off half of old and put on top of newer one. Issue looks dumb and unfinished. Use some type of cord to clean up the edge. Still may look bad and by removing hard plastic look nasty due to glue remains. Due to shown cracks, it's not likely you can use as hard case on top of new rubber.
Under newer one instead. Issue, it would look and feel off I think because of hump added. Maybe not sure due to hump caused by battery? Could be similar.
Fix cut old one slightly bigger than new hole. Glue edges only. Issue bump created around current lip from New hole.
Fix cut same size as new hole add inner layer such as felt. Glue piece to felt, felt to new inside part. If cut well and placed well, old piece fills void reduces lip. Issue of bad cut, looks bad. Cut slightly larger than hole and slowly trim to fit. Try to get edges to squash well together. Still may have nasty glue remains from removal of hard plastic. Fix may be tough to do and look off. Keep plastic attached, Trim both plastic and rubber to shape of hole and fit in hole. Use felt again as backer.
Eliminate felt use, trim plastic to hole, trim rubber slightly bigger. Glue old rubber to plastic and edges of old rubber to inside of new hole. Essentially, use old rubber as backer instead of felt. May still cause that hump around edge of new hole.
Fill hole with old piece as described above eliminate felt use, plastic if desired, and over size of old rubber. Create complete new back instead to glue piece to. Then glue this new back to the back of new case. This will cover up the old glue remains, bad possible cutting and lip issues. Tricky part, what to use for new back.
What's the inside of old case look like? Could it be used to create new back layer? If not sure where I am going, look at the back of a ballistic case.
Glue depends on decided application. If new back than semi rigid glue would work well. They have super glue that stays flexible. Rubber cement too flexible I think.
What would you suggest be my line of going forward? Cut the lip and buttons off the d3o
Sent from SGS II 4G Jelly Bean 4.1.1
Tough to say without being there and knowing the actual layout. Your video just made it to hard to see. Since the plastic is borked and underneath may be glued, you may want to hit up one of the mall vestibules and see if you can find some knock off cover that works to your needs.
Yeah I will probably grab some cheap cases similar & do some mock ups to get a feel for what it will be like. I'll post some pictures of my progress.
Sent from SGS II 4G Jelly Bean 4.1.1
Hello everyone
I had an idea about using my phone under water to take pics and videos etc. I'm a little paranoid about the flaps coming open though.
I was wondering if anyone had come across a case that covers all of the flaps but still gives access to the shutter button?
Also if not, have you guys got any ideas as to ways of guaranteeing that they stay closed?
I know it's a bit of an odd request! Lol
Thanks in advance for any help!
Will
I had sourced this out in Fall last year, and every single case I could find had the cutouts for ports open.
The only solution I had found was a company that 3D prints their cases, and I asked them if they could make me one without the holes cut out. They said yes, but the case was $50 plus $20 shipped, and would be ready in 3 months (due to backlog of their 3D printer).
I never went through with the order, but it can be done. Here's why:
Mentioned by the above company, this will cause additional wear and tear on your device, because while your goal is trying to keep the water out, waters' goal is to try to get in, and if successful, even with the flaps closed, that case is going to hold it there. Moisture will now be locked in against the case and phone, and can cause issues such as paint protection, fogging and possibly water damage.
My advice:
You're best just grabbing some medical tape from a medical supply store, and using that to keep the flaps closed. Medical tape is waterproof, similar to a band aid, but has only a slight adhesive to it, so it comes off easily without damage to your screen protector or phone itself. It's perforated so it's super easy to tear by hand too.
http://www.amazon.ca/Complete-Medic...8&qid=1423238156&sr=8-5&keywords=medical+tape
NOTE: Do NOT buy cotton tape, or lower quality "medical tape", as most are designed for plaster casting and have a very strong adhesive to them. They WILL damage your phone and possibly tear off your protector, damaging it. Look in low quality first aid kits at whatever "big box store" you want (WalMart, etc.). The cotton tape is white, and requires the use of scissors or a knife to cut. That is the **** stuff. If you can't easily tear it off in a straight edge by hand, it's not the correct stuff.
Considering the new xperia x has one and that the back cover on the z3 is easily replaced, wouldn't it be a great idea to give your old phone an updated look by just putting a custom back on it!
Can be done. The camera plastic cover is glued to the back cover from the inside?
isn't it like a Faraday cage? does it kill the wifi + mobile signals?
bookworth said:
isn't it like a Faraday cage? does it kill the wifi + mobile signals?
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Click to collapse
Shouldn't kill them (maybe it will be tricky with NFC). The thing is that the frame around the phone is plastic, so that should be enough for the WiFi.
Guids said:
Considering the new xperia x has one and that the back cover on the z3 is easily replaced, wouldn't it be a great idea to give your old phone an updated look by just putting a custom back on it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THat's a good idea. I thought about it and was wondering about the Faraday effect. But then again I would settle with anything that is not glass to be honest.
I'm sure that anybody with a CNC could make a custom backplate in POM or any other resistant plastic...
Now to find somebody on the forum with a CNC and spare time!
I made my own in acryllic plastic.
1. Cut out in 1mm acryllic sheet using the old back as a template and then cut with Exactoknife(Needs to cut/draw a line several times with exactoknife, acryllic is tough to cut, also needs to be sanded down to same size as old cover. Sanded evenly and not to fast to prevent friction heat that messes up the acryllic)
2. Take out camera lens from the old frame (Adhesive tape, easy to remove with exacto)
3. Drill a hole for camera lens using old back as template.
4. Sanded both sides from 80 to 120(Wood) then 400>600>800>1200 Silicone carbide paper(Wet)
5. Heated it up evenly with a flame on both sides to give it a darker smoked color then stuck it between two flat objects to prevent it bubbling or deforming until it cooled down.
(Heated back and forth so it didnt get too hot and had time to cool)
6. Once cool, washed with water.
7. A few smooth strokes against 1200 Silicone Carbide (Wet) to even out any irragularities
8. Dried, then a few smooth strokes with 1200 Silicone Carbide dry, sideways to have an even pattern and smooth surface.
9. Took the camera lens, glued into hole. Let dry then 1200dry sanded around camera hole to remove glue residue. (Dont sand the camera lens or you have to polish it. Major PITA..)
10. Took the top part of the black sticker from the inside of the old glass cover, cut out the top camera part as a square and stuck it around camera and flash to prevent flash bleeds.
11. Reapply new adhesive tape to the cover and reapply it and voila, waterproof again
This is my 3rd, made it last night, rushed job as I was tired wanting to sleep, so did not care about looks.
Also couldn't find one of my previous glass covers so I had to reuse the camera lens and sticker from the old plastic cover.
Resulting in the camera lens outer ring breaking off and the sticker being semi sticky and filled with bubbles. But it functions, which was the main idea.
Didnt bother about sanding it decently so there's still scratches, but it gives you an picture what it looks like.
If done properly and more patiently you can get a smoother texture, no air bubbles and a non broken lens, but once superglued that lens is stuck rocksolid.
Hey guys, is there a drawing of the back cover available?
I would like to try a 3D-print, after the second back cover is broken.
But I don't have a radius gauge and need the radius of the corners.
Thanks for your help.
@mike the pike
what a coincidence!
I have made a modell in FreeCad because I had the same idea like you. But I don't have a 3D printer, so my plan was to order it from a german company which offers to cut parts out of plastic plates.
I'am not a drawing or CAD profi, in fact this was my first experience with stuff like this, but I am pretty shure my modell is quite accurate. My only opportunity to test it, was to print a 1:1 sketch and compare it with the (broken) original backcover.
Feel free to use and modify my work, but please tell me if it works. :highfive:
Doing this, part one
I spent some time in the machine shop on campus yesterday, and, with the help of the assistants, made a metal back out of sheet aluminum.
The toughness is far superior to glass, and the strength is, too (the glass used on the Z3 Compact by default is somewhat pathetic).
From here, I was planning to first apply a brushed finish with an abrasive pad and WD-40 (thanks, YouTube) then either anodize (time to steal a HVPS from a hardware store?) black, or pay someone to apply a thermoset powder coat. Anodizing would probably yield better results, and be cheaper, but the scratch resistance on the aluminum is a bit low, so thermoset would help a bit. Oh, and the bottom left corner is a little bit off. Might get some silicone caulk and apply at the corner for waterproofing. Otherwise, it turned out extremely well. Filed down the corners myself to get the perfect fit.
One problem that I have is the flash. The normal back glass is a plane of glass stretching across the LED in the back. Will either 3D print it, or, more realistically, just stick a spare Z3 Compact camera lens cover on it and call it a day. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Also, I'm not allowed to post images, since I made this account for this . If you're interested in the result, PM me.
Eric
P.S.: NFC doesn't work but reception is perfect.
Barrel_Trollz said:
I spent some time in the machine shop on campus yesterday, and, with the help of the assistants, made a metal back out of sheet aluminum.
The toughness is far superior to glass, and the strength is, too (the glass used on the Z3 Compact by default is somewhat pathetic).
From here, I was planning to first apply a brushed finish with an abrasive pad and WD-40 (thanks, YouTube) then either anodize (time to steal a HVPS from a hardware store?) black, or pay someone to apply a thermoset powder coat. Anodizing would probably yield better results, and be cheaper, but the scratch resistance on the aluminum is a bit low, so thermoset would help a bit. Oh, and the bottom left corner is a little bit off. Might get some silicone caulk and apply at the corner for waterproofing. Otherwise, it turned out extremely well. Filed down the corners myself to get the perfect fit.
One problem that I have is the flash. The normal back glass is a plane of glass stretching across the LED in the back. Will either 3D print it, or, more realistically, just stick a spare Z3 Compact camera lens cover on it and call it a day. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Also, I'm not allowed to post images, since I made this account for this . If you're interested in the result, PM me.
Eric
P.S.: NFC doesn't work but reception is perfect.
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Click to collapse
I assume that the glass they use for the camera lens is of a convex design such to scatter the light intensity for maximum coverage of the subject. It won't be so easy as just using any untreated material unless you want a dull-flash. Assuming you've already made your cuts to good tolerances, then why not just source your adhesives from the OEM itself? Save yourself some work. The proper way to apply those adhesives(as such to retain the water-resistant nature) is to use a hot plate up to 100 C and place it on the plate for a few seconds before pulling it off.
I'm mainly worried about the cut at the bottom left. It's not at all made to a good tolerance. I did buy the adhesive sticker, and I plan to use it, but some silicone wouldn't hurt on that one place.
Also, there is a bit of distortion when I look through it, so you're right. Not much I can do about it, though, but pray to the gods of diffraction.
allerd said:
@mike the pike
what a coincidence!
I have made a modell in FreeCad because I had the same idea like you. But I don't have a 3D printer, so my plan was to order it from a german company which offers to cut parts out of plastic plates.
I'am not a drawing or CAD profi, in fact this was my first experience with stuff like this, but I am pretty shure my modell is quite accurate. My only opportunity to test it, was to print a 1:1 sketch and compare it with the (broken) original backcover.
Feel free to use and modify my work, but please tell me if it works. :highfive:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I didn't visit this site quiet a wile.
I lent me a radius-gauge and I think I found some good values.
Unfortunately I don't have them in mind, because I gave them to a colleague, how will 3D-print the cover for me.
As I only made hand-drawing, he will transcript it into any 3D-data-file, which I will provide you here, as soon as I received the results.
So stay tuned.
The cover for the camera is still usable and I plan to insert it into the new back-cover, but I'm quite at a loss about the flashlight.
p.s. Yesterday I mounted my 4th back-cover
Accurate 3D model and curves for creating z3c back cover:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1998130
Mission complete
Hi all!
I finished my metal back cover. Still a new user, so can't post images, but I just wanted to let you guys know that I completed it and the phone is 100% functional (aside from NFC, RIP).
In the end, I anodized the aluminum and used a thin plastic sheet sealed with superglue around the flash (flash works fine BTW), and gave it a little brushed finish afterwards that cut into the anodized piece ever so slightly.
I'm very happy with it, the finish on this phone is unlike any I've ever felt. Smooth, yet solid, soft, yet sturdy. The phone is cool to the touch when in standby. The camera was a bit wonky at first, but as I pressed down into the metal back it stabilized, and now seems very resilient. The anodization itself didn't go all that smoothly (took four tries), with the metal part itself ending up with an uneven finish. It being black and brushed helps, as the texture undulates, making up for the inconsistencies.
I made a post to /r/Android with images and more details. Same username as on here. Go check it out if you're interested.
Eric
Mission also complete
I finished now my 3D-printed backcover and it is quite satisfying.
I made it by using the file railpl posted.
Unfortunately it is about half a mm to short so there is a small gap on the short side, but for me it is okay.
I used the lenscover from my old glassback and drilled a tiny hole for the flashlite.
So I think it is not waterproof anymore.
For anyone contemplating these repairs, they turned out to be much simpler than I expected.
Camera lens
The lens can actually be replaced without removing the rear cover of the phone. Simply use a knife to carefully gouge out the broken glass, clean off the old glue, then stick the new ones into place.
Rear cover
I bought an original Xiaomi cover on Ali Express for $60. They seem to be getting more and more scarce, so if you're thinking about doing it, do it sooner rather than later.
To remove, I heated the edges a little with a hairdryer, then wiggled a work knife into the gap and worked my way around, sliding the knife and lifting. Once you get it going it's not difficult, but you need a little patience. Once you get enough done, lift the cover to get the rest of it off.
Be careful with lifting because the fingerprint sensor is attached. To remove it at the phone end, the connector is very small but easy to get off, it's a press-in connector, so just carefully insert the very corner of your knife under the edge and lift. It comes off easily, so if you're having to work at it you're doing it wrong.
To remove the sensor from the old cover, warm it with the hair dyrer, then use a very thin knife or blade and work carefully around the edge. It won't come out until you've worked all the way round, lifting more than cutting. Once out, the glue is recessed slightly, so the sensor stands out and fits into the hole in the cover, which means positioning isn't a problem. You can probably buy the glue piece, but I didn't have it so I just put it back in the new cover using the old glue, I warmed it a bit and then weighted it back in place for a while. It seemed to be pretty firmly in place, and I don't think it's going anywhere anyway once the cover is back on, since it's up against the rest of the phone.
Check around the edges of the phone for remnants of the old glue. It comes out easily, just push a bit with the knife to get the end up, then lift and pull and it'll come out in a single strand.
The replacement cover comes pre-glued, although it's not really glue, more of a sticky seal. Starting at the camera end, position the cover and push it into place. There's a pop when it goes in, and I think even without the glue it would be fine. I then warmed the edges and weighted it down for a while.
Hello comrade, thank you for sharing your experience.
Now, it wouldn't be a bad idea to share with us the links (if XDA allows this kind of links) for the purchase of your spare parts.
Internet is very rough, and in my case, I buy almost everything in Aliexpress, it is very difficult to find good sellers with good prices.
This way, your contribution will be much more complete.
Thanks a lot, and greetings.
Hi
I will attempt a similar replacement but I just have some questions. How did you swap the nfc and wireless charging coil and do you think it is possible to do a "clear" version of the back cover (removing the interior paint)
thank you