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Hi,
Just purchased a TP2 with a cracked digitizer. I also have the replacement. I've done a bit of research, and it looks like a ton of steps. I'm pretty confident I can do it, so all I'm really looking for is some tips. Any surprises I might see that may not have been covered in this guide? This is what I have so far:
http://translate.google.co.uk/trans...ka/htc_touch_pro2/&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
how did you conclude that your digitizer is cracked?
The LCD is fine. It's the top layer of plastic that is cracked. I haven't received the phone yet, but I inspected it, and that's what I concluded. The person who sold it to me is including a replacement part, but I know I'm looking at a lengthy process to dismantle the device.
Do you have to take apart the entire phone just to change the digitizer? I thought you could just hook something underneath the corner and pry it out.
It seems like such a drag if you have to take the whole phone apart to change an exterior item.
Man you're in for a world of hurt and frustration... Easier to just purchase and replace the LCD and digitizer together...
But hey, good luck.....
have you managed to replace the digitizer only? if its such a mission why are so many people selling them on ebay? a scam maby lol?
i too am interested in your results, just now bought a cracked LCD htc touch pro 2 for $100, touching the screen works, except that the phone is stuck in head-set mode and can't seem to get out of it. also, i want to replace the lcd and use the phone myself. can you pls post your success/educational steps which you followed. also, where did you buy the replacement LCD? how much ? pls help.
ultramag69 said:
Man you're in for a world of hurt and frustration... Easier to just purchase and replace the LCD and digitizer together...
But hey, good luck.....
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Click to collapse
Totally agree here. From what I have read you dont want to mess around with trying to pry the current digitizer off and then reapply a new one on. It's a HUGE pain in the ass. Just purchase a replacement LCD screen/digitizer combo and i's apparently super easy to swap out.
I've taken apart tons of phones, I'm currently waiting on a digitizer to replace for my TP2. If you search this forum you will find instructions how to do it.
While waiting I've been reviewing the instructions.
As always the hardest part is putting it back together.
The only thing I can recommend to you is to don't worry about replacing it. Take pictures with a digital camera as you go so you can know how to put it back together.
Hopefully I will get mine by this weekend. It is for a T-Mobile TP2 and the only shop to have one available was in Hong Kong.
Good luck.
Redman0570 said:
I've taken apart tons of phones, I'm currently waiting on a digitizer to replace for my TP2. If you search this forum you will find instructions how to do it.
While waiting I've been reviewing the instructions.
As always the hardest part is putting it back together.
The only thing I can recommend to you is to don't worry about replacing it. Take pictures with a digital camera as you go so you can know how to put it back together.
Hopefully I will get mine by this weekend. It is for a T-Mobile TP2 and the only shop to have one available was in Hong Kong.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, can u post how you go with this e.g. is it easy enough to seperate the lcd and touchscreen. Maby a few pics as well if you can.
Cheers
It can be done but it requires ALOT of patience. Take it slowly and try not to leaver against the LCD in anyway. If you do break the screen when replacing it a replacement isn't expensive.
I replaced the digitizer twice. Taking the phone apart and assembling it back is difficult only when you do it for the first time. Once you know what's going on it just takes some time and precision. The REALLY tough part when replacing JUST the digitizer is putting the lcd and digitizer together without any dust or fingerprints in between. I ended up with dusting and vacuuming the room, putting some super-clean brand new plastic bags around the workplace and putting the cold shower on. Then using super-clean glass polishing microfibre cloth and anti-static glass cleaning liquid under really good lamp I managed to get both parts 100% clean and put them back together. Don't forget latex gloves (the ones that leave no marks) - fingerprints are hundred times worse than dust to get rid of. I have no idea how long did it really take but when I finished my back hurt like hell and water was dripping from the ceiling
Separating lcd and digitizer is not too hard. It was easiest when it was still attached to the bezel. I just pried it out applying easy, firm pressure and taking my time. Try not to damage the sticky layer on the edges or get it excessively dirty - it'll make your life easier later.
I hope it goes easier for you. Gud luck!
EDIT: Make sure that lcd is positioned 100% correctly (there is 1 or 2mm space to move it around). It is a very unpleasant surprise to put the phone back together just to find out that some top or bottom pixel lines are permanently invisible (The Voice of True Experience speaks here:/). And generally - keep the place around you tidy - maybe some containers for screws, parts, tools and that sort of stuff. I am not naturally anal enough to start from this point but found out in the process that this sort of job gets extremely frustrating and exhausting when you get confused, start losing parts etc.
It is major hurt! The TP2 is really not user serviceable! Anyway after reading all instructions I still screwed it up. I should have sent it in to HTC. I would not recommend changing the digitizer on your own.
Everything went well until it came to removing the LCD & replacing the digitizer. I cut the speaker cable, and the LCD just came apart. Luckily I have another LCD, looking for a speaker cable now.
has anyone found any places that sell the lcd and digitizer together for the T-Mobile TP2?
Thanks to these instructions I was able to replace the broken digitizer (glass) on my TP2. Unfortunately the Russian instructions stop short of replacing the glass.
Tools required: T5 torx mini screwdriver, letter opener, mini philips, a mini straight screwdriver and I found a very mini (1mm ) straight screwdriver handy for getthing the keyboard and screen back loose. The letter openner and two straight screwdrivers are only for prying
Here is what I did from the last spot on the Russian instructions: (yes you have to do every step)
Note: Be very careful removing the ribbon taped to the back of the LCD. You have to pry the speaker out ot the case up at the top; don't attempt to remove it by pulling on the ribbon. Once the speaker is loose (it's attached to the riboon, you are ok to remove it.
1. Take a small straight screwdriver and pry all around the LCD (metal back with handwriting on it in the last photo.) There are plastic tabs all around it centering it. You can pry gently against them. The LCD is only adhered with a small gasket around the edge of the glass. It is not glued to the screen as was posted by someone else. It comes out fairly easily.
2. Remove the black tape holding down the ribbon connected to the digitizer. I wasn't able to save the tape but not a big deal. Below the tape is one of three screws holding the buttons on. Remove those three screws.
3. Now you should be able to remove the digitizer. Go slow starting at the bottom. It is glued all around at heavily glued at the top. I had the pry the top away with small flat screwdriver and a letter opener. Go slowly and eventually it will release. At the top of the glass is the speaker for your ear. It will likely come off with the glass. Remove it and return it to the now empty case centering it in top.
4. Using gloves to prevent prints remove the protective film form your new digitizer. There is a lot of static generated when you do this so keep it away from everything for a minute while it neutralizes. Then place the digitizer in from the top, feed the ribbon through the slot and press the plastic all the way around.
5. Replace the buttons and the screws that retain them.
6. Replace the LCD; you can't screw it up the plastic tabs center the LCD. Just make sure the ribbon is at the bottom.
7. Reverse the instructions in the Russian link at the beginning of the post.
All told it took one hour the first time. I got it all together and then screen didn't light it. I had trouble reconnecting the screen ribbon during assembly so I figured the problem was there. I took the phone apart (to the end of the Russian instructions) and reinserted the screen ribbon into the connecter and then reassembled the phone. It took 10 min to disassemble and reassemble the phone the second time although I didn't have to take apart the screen.
So that's it. It cost me $22.00 for a new digitizer and $10.00 shipping, which is a lot better than a new phone if you don't have insurance and the phone looks like new. If you look very hard you can make out one tiny speck of dust under the glass but it's barely visible; much better than looking at the large V shaped crack I had before.
Hello!
I ordered (and received) a screen AND a digitizer. But there's a thin scotch tape that make the screen+digitizer (in one piece) get stick to the phone. OK, I teared it off.
But, how can I replace this scotch tape??? Much less of 1 mm thick, it seems to be made of foam...
Anyone can help me???????????
Please....
Coucou !
Is there anybody out there?
(Pink Floyd, The Wall, 1979 )
I was sent a Digitizer from Ebay (without LCD). Just for everyone elses benefit, there is no way you can remove the digitizer from the LCD Screen. It's glued down. Maybe it wasn't the case with the older ones, but mine can not be separated, no way!
Taking the phone apart is not too hard, the video instructions are pretty good, but seriously, forget trying to replace the digitizer only.
Here is the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrTRPTmoxpw&feature=player_embedded
Cheers, Mal.
If it has the same construction as the HD2, you can put the LCD + digitizer in the oven for 5 minutes at 50 degrees celcius. This was shown in instructions by HTC. Then you can seperate them.
Maybe, but my LCD was glued across the whole screen not just the edges. I'd suggest only buying the Digitizer/LCD combo if you want to do this yourself. If you buy both (as a single piece) the job would be pretty easy.
OK, so I dropped my phone and the LCD went out, I hooked the phone up to the laptop and the phone still works fine, even the touch screen works. ( I used My MObiler to see phone screen on the pc).
I bought a new LCD screen off of Ebay and replace it, now, the LCD screen works, but for some reason, the touch screen stopped working.
When I took the LCD apart from the touch screen, there seem to be a layer of grease of some sort between the touch screen and the LCD. I wiped it off with a lens cloth, don't know if that caused any problem.
Also there is a dark film (tinted) glued to the touch screen when looking from the back, what is that for? I looked at replacement touch screen on Ebay but none of them have the tinted film layer. I've search all over the internet for instructions but can't find any.
So my question is, what are the correct procedures for replacing the LCD screen and the touch screen (digitizer) ? Also after I installed the new LCD screen, the screen is very reflective and the glare is really bad, how do I fix that problem?
Thank you experts!!
You should have replaced both the LCD screen and the Digitizer. There are complete kits on ebay as well as instructions/tools to complete the replacement. Did you purchase the digitizer also?
bojangle said:
You should have replaced both the LCD screen and the Digitizer. There are complete kits on ebay as well as instructions/tools to complete the replacement. Did you purchase the digitizer also?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went ahead and purchased the digitizer by itself after the original stopped working. Hopefully, it will get my phone back to normal. Thanks for your reply!
in the wiki theres disassebly instructions of the device that should help you (but you probably already know that since you've already switched out the LCD)
In my experience, i have never replaced either the digitizer, or the LCD by themselves, i've always bought LCD+Digitizer and replaced them as one. Seems like the Digitizer is usually glued onto the LCD and i never wanted to mess with that.
fone_fanatic said:
in the wiki theres disassebly instructions of the device that should help you (but you probably already know that since you've already switched out the LCD)
In my experience, i have never replaced either the digitizer, or the LCD by themselves, i've always bought LCD+Digitizer and replaced them as one. Seems like the Digitizer is usually glued onto the LCD and i never wanted to mess with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I should have ordered the kit instead of just the LCD. What lead me to order just the LCD is when I hooked the phone to my pc and confirmedthe digitizer still worked. And since this is the first time ever I disassemble a phone, I assumed the two things were separated.
But my digitizer should come in tomorrow so I'll just have to wait and see. Thanks for the info.
where did you find a guide to take apart the TP2? I just had the unfortuante luck of smashing mine in the car door as I got in....it fell out of my pocket the exact moment i was closing the door....
My screen is shot, but other than that the device appears to work. I can power on, and try to dial after I press the hard key for the phone pad. The touch portion seems to work, but from your luck, I guess I am looking at having to replace both...
anyhow...any advice on guides and how to find the stuff on the ebay would be apperciated.
I still have 18 months of a 2 yr contract....sucks....and it sucks doubly becuase i just took the insurance off last month....grr..
forcemac said:
where did you find a guide to take apart the TP2? I just had the unfortuante luck of smashing my in the car door as I got in....it feel out of my pocket the exact moment i was closing the door....
My screen is shot, but other than that the device appears to work. I can power on, and try to dial after I press the hard key for the phone bad. The touch portion seems to work, but from your luck, I guess I am looking at having to replace both...
anyhow...any advice on guides and how to find the stuff on the ebay would be apperciated.
I still have 18 months of a 2 yr contract....sucks....and it sucks doubly becuase i just took the insurance off last month....grr..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's a photo guide of the disassembly of a Rhodium (TP2), it might give you some insight. There's also been a number of threads in this section about hardware parts and the screen/digitizer in particular, listing places where people found/ordered replacement parts.
forcemac said:
where did you find a guide to take apart the TP2? I just had the unfortuante luck of smashing mine in the car door as I got in....it fell out of my pocket the exact moment i was closing the door....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The disassembly instructions are here: http://translate.google.co.uk/trans...ka/htc_touch_pro2/&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
I did not follow those instructions since I did not want to open the back of the phone.
What i did was I tilted up the phone and used a very small screwdriver and unscrewed the two screws from an angle (it worked).
Then I pried the back of the tilting part of the phone all around to reveal the inside. Be careful not to pull too hard on the flat cable since it's still attached to the back (body) of the phone.
The LCD and touch screen are glued together (I didn't know that before). At this point I would remove the tape that is attaching the flat cable to the back of the LCD, and also lift up the clear yellow tape and detach the three connections.
The widest ribbon is from the LCD, the medium one is for the 4 hard buttons in the front, and the little one is for the touch screen.
I would suggest wearing some sort of anti-static wrist strap (I think I fried my touch screen along with the flat ribbon that is attached to the phone while trying to replace the LCD without anti-static wrist strap).
Once the whole tilting part is freed from the phone, I would carefully push the whole screen (digitizer + lcd) out from the frame, again, they are glued to the frame but can be removed fairly easy.
That's it, the install is reversed of removal and hopefully yours will work again.
Like I said, I think I fried my flat ribbon so after replacing the Digitizer (it came in today), the touch screen still doesn't work, so now I'm looking for that part, I'd appreciate a link to it if anybody knows where to get one.
Oh, and for the parts, just do a search on ebay for "touch pro 2 lcd" or touch pro 2 lcd + digitizer"
Gook luck with your phone!
What tape to use to stick digitizer back to inner bezel/chassis?
Hi - i got as far as trying to replace my Digitizer only to find that the LCD was stuck to it too. So as clever as i am (not) - i tried to remove the LCD off the digitizer - but that just ended up cracking it.
So i'm in the process of ordering a LCD with the digitizer - pre-stuck together (i hope!) - but my question is:
When i removed the digitizer off the front bezel, there was this spongy sort of double sided tape... i assume it was used for a reason and not just any ordinary double sided tape (presumably to allow a bit of leway between the digitizer and the bezel when pressure is applied to the touch screen)...
Any thoughts on what sort of tape this is? - here's some photos of my digitizer and the bezel:
zedii.co.uk/DSC_0002.JPG
^some of that tape is left on the digitizer... it's the black spongy stuff...
zedii.co.uk/DSC_0003.JPG
^i cleaned (removed residue of sticky tape) in the inner part of the bezel where the digitizer would stick...
Any specific tape to use that anyone knows of?
zedii said:
Hi - i got as far as trying to replace my Digitizer only to find that the LCD was stuck to it too. So as clever as i am (not) - i tried to remove the LCD off the digitizer - but that just ended up cracking it.
So i'm in the process of ordering a LCD with the digitizer - pre-stuck together (i hope!) - but my question is:
When i removed the digitizer off the front bezel, there was this spongy sort of double sided tape... i assume it was used for a reason and not just any ordinary double sided tape (presumably to allow a bit of leway between the digitizer and the bezel when pressure is applied to the touch screen)...
Any thoughts on what sort of tape this is? - here's some photos of my digitizer and the bezel:
Any specific tape to use that anyone knows of?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish you had asked before you ordered the digitizer + LCD, since I ordered mine separately, and they seem to both working ok. The digitizer does not have to be glued to the LCD. But anyway, I just used plain old Gel superglue to glue the digitizer to the bezel. I used Gel superglue so it won't run into the electronics beneath. Things seems to work just fine now.
One thing to consider when you crack open the whole phone though. Be careful not to loose any part from within the phone, because apparently, I lost something, now my accelerometer doesn't work, and my screen doesn't rotate when you slide out the keyboard. Hope it works out for you!
adp9626 said:
I wish you had asked before you ordered the digitizer + LCD, since I ordered mine separately, and they seem to both working ok. The digitizer does not have to be glued to the LCD. But anyway, I just used plain old Gel superglue to glue the digitizer to the bezel. I used Gel superglue so it won't run into the electronics beneath. Things seems to work just fine now.
One thing to consider when you crack open the whole phone though. Be careful not to loose any part from within the phone, because apparently, I lost something, now my accelerometer doesn't work, and my screen doesn't rotate when you slide out the keyboard. Hope it works out for you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the advice adp9626! Well in summary I think I've just been messing about too much and being stupid really.
In the end, I managed to just remove the top part of the screen without actually having to break into the bottom section of the phone.
I was a bit concerned about the whole sticking of the LCD to the Digitizer part. I actually did purchase them separately, however I was not sure what kind of glue was used to stick them both together - as I recall it was a nightmare to try and remove the LCD off the old Digitizer.
So I returned both separate parts (got a full refund as I didn't use them) - and now I am looking to purchase both parts stuck together.
I'm waiting on the guy on eBay to confirm that they are both stuck together. I'm also thinking of using double sided sticky tape to stick the Digitizer back to the inner bezel...
So that's the final plan! I've been a bit silly in rushing with ordering parts etc. but I just want to be on the safe side now - well - at least with the LCD stuck to the Digitizer part.
I will take your advice on the gel superglue if the double sided sticky tape doesn't prove it's stickyness!
Thanks
Zayd.
Can anyone help me find the lcd screen and digitizer as a single unit for Sprint? Everyone I find states not for CDMA.
Thanks
Anyone ??? I spent an hour on google and still came up with no leads.
hyghlndr said:
Anyone ??? I spent an hour on google and still came up with no leads.
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Click to collapse
I ordered one from this guy and it works great. it comes with the entire top half of the phone and the keyboard. There is only one left so you may want to hurry. Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=270583335455&Category=20336&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2
Edit: I wanted to add that they're are slightly used so there will be scratches. The one i received is a little more scratched than my original then again the scratches aren't noticeable when the back light is on and you're getting a working screen.
Just my experience, I had a faulty LCD, digitizer was OK. Bought a replacement LCD off ebay, delivered from China but only cost me £20 inc delivery. Arrived with tools as well (T5, T6, philiips, and pry tool). Followed a couple of disassembly instructions online, took me a while to get all apart but managed it. None of the instructions online go through actually taking the screen out, I thought I'd messed it up as I took the back half of the LCD off and left the front bit on, and I couldnt get it off at first. I ended up using a very sharp scalpel to slide between the LCD and digitizer and got them apart eventually, as I didnt realise that they were glued.
Anyway, I just placed the screen on, no glue as there is a ring of sticky tape around the back of the digitizer which holds the screen in. Connected everything back in the end and its working fine. Only prob is I think I damaged the power/standby button, so be careful when around this area.
Touch Screen not responding after replacement
Recently, I replaced a glass screen on a SGH-M919 Galaxy S4. Previously, during the process of cleaning the glue residues off the LCD screen; I rubbed it with rubbing alcohol and it removed a small streak of the adhesive glue off left side of LCD screen and bottom right corner. After installed the new glass screen, I noticed a few spots of the glass screen wasn't sticking onto the sticky layer. So it looked like it has big air bubble between the glass screen and LCD. And I could see the rubbed off streak on the LCD screen. Everything worked fine with the new glass screen, with the exception of seeing the streak and bottom right corner rubbed off.
A few days ago, I had a table clock fell on top of the phone and broke a piece of glass. Nothing happened to the LCD screen and still functional 100%. So I got a replacement glass screen - the same as the first time replacement. With noticing of the rubbed off streak and corner of the adhesive layer on the LCD screen - I decided to rub off all of the adhesive layer from the LCD. I sprayed some Goof Off liquid on the adhesive layer and left it over night. Next morning I continued scraping off the glue with a small plastic card. Cleaned off all glue residues and examined the LCD screen for any scratches or damage. There was none. Re-installed new glass screen - but now the touch screen does not respond to the touching on the icons. Only the Home, Menu & Back touch button work. I was baffled after this.
Could it be that because I left some the Goof Off liquid on top of the LCD screen over night and it might have leaked to the other side and shorted out something? I saw a few forums that suggested a Factory Reset. I did that - but still didn't work. Please advise on what I need to do to fix this problem.
Thank you in advance for the advise or suggestion.
So you know that these are the TP2 forums, and no one has used this thread in the last 3 years....right?
LCD digitizer replacement.. now black screen
I saw the for replacing the LCD-digitizer of my nexus 4 phone, and followed the steps carefully. After I placed the battery, I checked to see if the phone turns ON and the display is working before I complete the last step of putting the back coverplate. I successfully switched it ON, saw a perfectly working screen, and browsed through my apps. To complete the assembly, I put the back cover by gently pressing the frame along the edges, but suddenly I saw some yellow green lines in the middle of the screen. I switched it off and again switched in ON, but now the entire screen had light with no display.
To fix this, I tried again checking all connections but no luck. What could be the reason for the sudden loss of display when it worked perfectly fine moments ago? Is there a possibility that I damaged the LCD while putting the back cover on the phone?
I am also not sure about one of the ribbon connectors of the digitizer. There are 2 big ones which are prominent and has ports to connect. However, there is a little third one which also has to come through the gap but doesn’t connect anywhere. Has anyone also experienced this while replacing the screen? Any help will be appreciated.
My little cousin have EVO with shattered screen, and I am trying to get him replacement part. Screen has couple cracks but if fully functional so I am thinking which of following I should get...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-HTC-Evo...939?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa37ae05b
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Screen-...607?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b6c5d6e7
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-HTC...536?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a158d59d0
What is difference beside price ? Looks like cheep one is just outside glass and other two might have full screen ?
Now back to phone... Outside layer of glas is cracked but is there anything damaged inside I have no idea (i doubt any damage is there since screen fully operative). What do you guys thing? I can upload some pictures tonight around 6 (Central time).
From experience here is what I will tell you. The easiest thing to do is to replace the entire front housing. The front glass can be replaced but you risk breaking the lcd underneath. You can get the front piece of glass off by either taking a razor and cutting it from the adhesive or taking a heat gun (or hair drier will work) and heating it until the adhesive losens enough to pull the glass off. The problem with replacing the front housing is you need to know if it is a wide cable or small cable. The only way to know this for sure is to open the phone and look at the bottom ribbon of the left side of the board, this is the lcd ribbon and that will tell you if it needs to be big or little. Some people will tell you that you can look at the letters on the bottom right of the sticker where the esn is (they will be like a, b, c, xa, etc.) but this does not always work. I fix these everyday and have seen all boards with both types of screens. Hope this helps.
In addition to the constant influx of iPods and iPhones friends, family, and coworkers bring me to fix, I've taken apart a few different Xperia PLAY phones more times than I can count, so I thought I'd give a few "pro tips" to people who need to know the ins and outs of it. This isn't a disassembly, assembly, or even a repair guide, it's just the stuff I think those guys missed.
First, don't use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the front glass + digitizer. The plastic frame wrinkles and melts readily, particularly right under the face buttons.
Second, make sure you transfer as much as possible when you replace the frame. Replacement frames usually do not include the rubber shroud for the proximity sensor and it will not work right without it. I had one phone that seemingly worked fine until the screen protector peeled off while inserting in a pocket and then no amount of clear tape, screen protectors, or Sharpie-marking would fix it. A salvaged rubber shroud fixed it right up. Some replacement frames have a film-backed adhesive for holding it there and some don't. It probably depends on when they were yanked from the manufacturing line, assuming that they are original parts and not replica parts. You also want to make sure you transfer are the inner dust gasket that goes underneath the frame/glass or else things will be filling up with dust quickly. There is no speaker grill and the foam around it does not stop intrusion. A salvaged frame/glass adhesive is likely to allow dust in unless you didn't have to pick much out of it when swapping (usually glass shards). There are also little metallic grounding foam rectangles crammed in the corners that only one replacement frame I've seen has ever included (was probably salvage though listed as "new"). They probably aren't necessary and I've gone long periods without them, but why wonder if a static charge build up is responsible for your erratic touch screen?
Next, be extremely careful separating the glass from the frame. I've managed to crack good ones even going slowly and leaving gaps filled with picks and pry tools. Heat didn't seem to help much and, as mentioned earlier, is discouraged. Cleaning the screen after man-handling it isn't always easy, but don't avoid touching the back side because you will probably need the area to spread the pressure and avoid a crack. I use a levered "mini suction cup" from Harbor Freight on the top side and as many fingers as spread out as I can on the bottom, but the suction cup is near useless on a cracked screen (even tape-coated). I do suggest covering a shattered screen with tape to hold all the bits together but you are still going to have a hard time cleaning the adhesive up. You can always buy a frame with digitizer pre-installed but I know a lot of you want to buy complete replacement housings instead and it's kind of a waste, but at least you don't need to worry about that adhesive (still: don't forget to transfer the other bits!).
The digitizer parts I've salvaged from phones had higher version numbers than the ones I've seen sold as replacement parts and seemed to be more erratic so I prefer salvaged ones. There can be other problems as well. The flat flex cable from the digitizer is supposed to have an adhesive backing that holds it still where it connects to the tiny cable from the earpiece. Replacements often do not have it, which is yet ANOTHER reason to prefer salvage parts. It may not seem like such a big deal considering that there is a black plastic piece screwed down over it to protect it from getting caught in the mechanism, but the connector does not hold on very well and the phone will not boot if it is slightly out of alignment. If you reassemble it and just get a buzz from the vibration motor with no display and no other sign of booting, check this connection (same thing if the digitizer suddenly stops registering touch). Even a small drop/impact will cause it to happen again, so I recommend securing it with precisely cut tape or hot glue (stay clear of the sliding rails).
Now, keep it clean while you work or you will be staring at that contaminate or thumbprint for a long time. I usually wear fresh latex gloves when working on the glass but it doesn't do much good if you keep transferring oils from the rest of the phone. Wash your hands right before you start and clean the outside of the phone. Before you begin, try just touch a used dish soap dispenser with a damp thumb and run all along to screen except the buttons and earpiece. Do it again with just the damp thumb (dilutes the soap that remained from the first pass) and wipe it with a clean lint-free cloth. Your own clean and dry fingertips/palm should readily absorb any remaining streaks/oils. Be sure to wipe down the rest of the phone too and don't transfer it back to the glass. Once inside I use layer after layer of clear tape to lift gunk from the earpiece (no mesh, remember?). Put on new gloves before you start handling the glass after disassembly, even if you were wearing some for disassembly. To clean the back of the glass I put the adhesive between wax paper while I clean using lint-free cloths, 90+% alcohol, and acetone. For the LCD, use tape to lift most contaminates and resort to alcohol + lint-free cloth if that doesn't work. It doesn't need to be too perfect, especially if scratched from cracked glass. Most imperfections only show when it's off.
Hot glue is great for removing adhesive screw covers without showing pick marks or other signs of tampering but you have to make sure to leave an edge exposed so that you aren't just picking it out of the glue instead. I've been getting mine off cleanly without any tricks like this but it came in handy when I was first disassembling one and there weren't any guides to tell me that there weren't screws under the large silver strip (just covers rivets or injections mold points, IIRC). It's also good for sealing off water sensors, like the one you see through a hole under the battery door. There's another one by the contacts on the battery itself, one by the microphone under the gamepad, and one in the opposite corner under the PS Certified logo. I had an AT&T rep tell me that a brand new phone had a tripped water sensor (LIES!) so I would look for ways to do this with most any new phone.
I can't count how many times I've left the power button out while reassembling. It's not usually that I forgot: It's that it falls out while snapping the back on. I've left the face buttons out a few times too.
My first one had the cable folded wrong after reassembly. It still worked fine for a couple years but did eventually require replacement. Once it folds wrong it'll probably stay that way even after correct reassembly (like mine did). Do not try to attach it to the main PCB using a spudger, butterknife, or whatever to awkwardly push the connector down with everything pulled apart. The only thing you need to do is to slide the cable into the phone's closed position, align the plastic posts on the connector with the corresponding holes on the PCB, and then push down on the PCB until it snaps. I'm sure I tried this first back then but chickened out because the connector didn't snap very easily but that is how you are supposed to do it.
Before I talk about the replacing the slide cable, I want to express my annoyance at all the eBay/YouTube/iFixIt.com people who call it a "flex cable." I don't like the term flex cable because generally ALL cables should be flexible and that doesn't distinguish what it is well enough for people looking for the part. Technically, it's a flat cable or a slide cable, though I wouldn't object to it being called a flex PCB (flex PCBs usually have components other than just connectors like a rigid printed circuit board would). "Flex cable" is silly, redundant, and does not describe anything more specific than just "cable." To complicate matters, there are several actual flex PCBs in this phone to distinguish from when ordering the part. Why did so many people start calling flex PCBs "flex cables" in the first place?! In our case the sliding portion is a *flat* cable, so I can see where "cable" was introduced from, but people say "flex cable" for any flat cable made like a flex PCB these days whether fixed or sliding. At least you know now that you are probably going to have to use the incorrect terminology to find what you want online and sift through many useless results.
*whew*
Now, slide cable replacement is easier than it would seem but intact removal isn't and brand new replacements can be defective. It was a troubleshooting nightmare when I encountered a defective one because I replaced the LCD and glass + digitizer at the same time and suspected/checked everything else first, even taking apart my personal phone multiple times to test parts. The plastic part of the connector on the PCB end must be transferred to the new cable and the old one will not reliably stick back down to it even if you did not contaminate the adhesive. I successfully transferred a cable from a water-damaged phone to my personal phone before fixing up the water-damaged donor phone with a new one, so the adhesive on the salvaged part was weak and I didn't realize how hard it was to remove intact until later. When separating the defective new one there was seemingly no place to pry on one end other than underneath the part where the earpiece/camera connector was located. This broke the side of the connector that holds the locking flap though I was still able to use/lock it. I claimed warranty on the defective part anyway because the connector was not needed for proving the cable was defective (a functional cable works with that connector populated or not). This new part was slightly different from those found originally installed in the phone (different colored plastic connectors and such). The second new one I ordered from elsewhere had double-sided adhesive down the middle, a foil quality control sticker, and the same odd connector colors. I didn't think there was a market for replica parts on this phone but it does seem like more than simple factory revisions. Anyway, removing it involves removing metallic tape then lifting a plate that is still adhered underneath with amber-colored Kapton tape. You can see it from the slide mechanism below. I pinch the plate from above and below with two fingers and lift, gradually peeling the tape which I then fold inside and secure to avoid contaminating the adhesive. The cable has a plastic band across it that fits between fingers on this plate. When secured, this isolates the end with multiple connectors from the movement of the sliding portion, so make sure this is in place when reinstalling. It may be best to avoid removing the adhesive backing paper until after the plate and cable are securely taped back down with both the Kapton and metallic tape while the fingers are holding it in position. If you stick it down first and then secure the plate you may find it slightly too long or short to position inside the plate when securing it all back down. To thread the main connector through the slide board opening it may seem that it will only fit by folding the cable but DON'T! Coil it. Without flattening it, bend the connector 90-degrees over from the cable path and then adjust the angle until you have a coil-shape that you can work through with the connector sideways.
I ordered a "no useable parts" dummy phone just for the heck of it and, other than the Sony Ericsson logo on the fake battery door and maybe the stickers that cover the screws, they really don't have any salvageable parts. You can't swap any buttons, keys, springs, covers, etc into a real phone. The closest would be the face buttons. They will fit in a real phone, but they are too tall and put constant pressure on the PCB switches causing unintended key-presses (especially back and search buttons). The extra height easily protrudes out the top and is not the issue so filing them down vertically won't fix anything. I snipped some excess rubber to more closely match the design of the original buttons but it didn't help. I unscrewed the screw in the corner under the search key and unsnapped the bottom edge of the frame from the back/slide board and they work great until the phone inevitably snaps back together. I'd say they felt better then the original with the extra height (I can't stand how close they are to the screen). It's tolerable with ICS/JB's Navigation Bar (on-screen key functions), but I would rather salvage real buttons or pay too much for the eBay ones ($10-$20; very uncommon part; always sold with crap you probably don't need).
I have yet to find a replacement battery door that includes the rubber trim around the speakers and the foam piece surrounding the rear/noise-canceling microphone. I've ordered a few auctions that show them in the pictures but they always arrive bare. You can transfer them with a razor but it likely won't be perfect. Without them the speaker audio will probably echo around inside the battery compartment and make its way into the mic, though people usually don't notice it. Painting on some Plasti-Dip might do the trick, so try that if it bothers you.
Unlike an iPhone with a million different screws, you don't have to keep track of what goes where and everything is easily accessible. Bare minimum to take it all apart: Some fingernails, a T5 or T6 (pick one) and a PH0, 00, or 000 Phillips (pick one). There don't seem to be any tamper/warranty seals and the only concealed screws are the two obvious ones underneath metallic cover stickers on the display/slide board. There are no screws under tape or labels and no water sensors covering them either. All 6 Phillips screws are the same size but you'll likely want to keep the two with adhesive in their original holes to re-use the covers (adhesive usually remains on the screw instead of the cover). There are only two different Torx screw types but it's obvious what goes where (6 stubby flat ones on the top and bottom, 7 long thin ones around the battery area).
There are bits and bobs taped to and embedded in the rear housing including antenna/RF stuff, some more obvious that others. I've compared and the R800x is very different from the R800at even though the plastic frame looks really similar (R800x has a blocked SIM slot, of course). IMO, any housing swap should be limited to the front frame, the gamepad, and the battery door (only colored parts anyway). If you nicked your chrome, hopefully it was on a button or something that can be swapped (springs are a pain). It may be possible to transfer everything but I wouldn't trust it after all the peeling and picking. The one report I've seen of someone transferring between a GSM/CDMA models seems blissfully unaware of the metal wire behind the volume keys on the CDMA model that isn't there on GSM (at least it's not there on my R800at GSM).
That's all my advice for now. If you are having any trouble, let me know.
Excellent guide, thank you for taking the time to type this up. I think a mod should sticky this.....
Awesome guide! Thanks much for it!
@ozzmanj1 Agree, so more people will notice it.
Thanks for help buddy!!!
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Arevyn said:
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Arevyn said:
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am color blind and never took notice but I switched LCD between R800i, R800x, and R800at and they were all compatible. They have no reason to make anything in that half of the phone different, so they don't.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
narflynn619 said:
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
matfai said:
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
matfai said:
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my experience, cable alignment has also been an all or nothing issue so you probably need to replace the digitizer. It couldn't hurt to realign the digitizer cable first just in case it can avoid an unnecessary expense. That fixed a Cubot C9+ I worked on Saturday (digitizer not working at all) but not the iPhone 4S I worked on yesterday (bottom row of digitizer not responding).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
stuck in safe mode after replace slider cable(flex)
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
docsmiley said:
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Bakisha said:
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
docsmiley said:
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have received a defective flex cable before so it's possible you have also. In my case it didn't work at all (no picture).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Thanks for your replies I'll see if I can get it replaced
Sendt fra min Galaxy S4 med Tapatalk
slide flex replacement
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
dashu31 said:
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are the same. I have also switched then between a "4G" R800at and a R800x. I have also received bad digitizer flex cables that were new. It really is luck of the draw. A lot of replacement parts on eBay are factory seconds, which may have been removed from the production line for good reason. That's why I always order parts in sets of two for anything I know I will need in the future and I always test both. For example, recently I got two iPhone 4S screens and one had the frame installed upside down. Before that I ordered two replacement iPhone 4 30-pin dock replacements and one had a defective microphone. Before that I ordered two iPod touch 2G digitizer/frame assemblies and one didn't work along the left side.
Here I am identifying a couple bad iPhone displays from a lot:
http://youtu.be/TbxzCiGhwPM
I didn't own an iPhone so I had to test them all with the phone the first customer provided.
Edit: Oh! And make sure the problem is not with the digitizer connection under the black plastic cover. Mine works it's way loose all the time and needs to be secured with tape. Even when inserted fully straight and locked, I put it together and find it not working or the display black until I take it back apart and reseat it. It will twist slightly and even the slightest angle affects the connection.
Hi all,
i'm very disappointed because i'm just breaking my screen when my zenfone fall of 60cm.
LCD is ok but screen is dead
On ebay i know you can find only the screen with kit, and LCD + screen
Does any one have advice for replacing the screen or screen + lcd? (video or pictures).
Asus France ask me 180€ to change that
thank for your help...
pulesky said:
Hi all,
i'm very disappointed because i'm just breaking my screen when my zenfone fall of 60cm.
LCD is ok but screen is dead
On ebay i know you can find only the screen with kit, and LCD + screen
Does any one have advice for replacing the screen or screen + lcd? (video or pictures).
Asus France ask me 180€ to change that
thank for your help...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems pretty easy, please check these videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMIivqu6XJY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4HZt3Aadsc
I ordered a screen replacement on AliExpress. I've only cracked the glass on my phone, but I don't think it's possible to replace the glass on its own. (Unless you have the hands of a neurosurgeon and special equipment.)
Tried changing screen today, but it requires a complete disassemble of the unit. I managed to remove the back and disconnect the components, however I wasn't able to remove the battery since it seems to be glued (?) in place on one side. I even tried using quite a bit of force, but eventually I chickened out since the battery started bending. I have no idea how they do it so easily in the video. If anyone here has managed this disassemble I'd be very interested in getting some details.
dodongobongo said:
I ordered a screen replacement on AliExpress. I've only cracked the glass on my phone, but I don't think it's possible to replace the glass on its own. (Unless you have the hands of a neurosurgeon and special equipment.)
Tried changing screen today, but it requires a complete disassemble of the unit. I managed to remove the back and disconnect the components, however I wasn't able to remove the battery since it seems to be glued (?) in place on one side. I even tried using quite a bit of force, but eventually I chickened out since the battery started bending. I have no idea how they do it so easily in the video. If anyone here has managed this disassemble I'd be very interested in getting some details.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try using a hair dryer on the battery for a minute, but keep moving the hair dryer up and down, to spread the heat all over, this should make the glue soft enough to make it easier to peel the battery off.
Finally managed to replace the screen. This one was really difficult to repair compared to the previous phones I've worked on, but maybe in part because there are no complete instructions out there yet. Lots of glue and tape holding it all together.
The battery isn't really glued, but rather held down by some sticky plastic. (Kinda like chewing gum.) I don't think heating will help here. I used a long, flat plastic object to reach underneath and loosen it from the battery.
I forgot to take pictures, but here are the steps I took. You can find some photos for the first half of the procedure.
Remove 14 screws from the back cover
Carefully remove back plastic cover (double sided tape on center)
Unplug the three connectors going to the top PCB/SoC (these are screen, SIM/SD and battery)
Remove speaker (black piece at the bottom, nothing is holding it in place)
Remove bottom PCB: flip up the little black switch to loosen the connector cable next to the battery, then unplug the wire going to the top PCB, then you can remove it. Vibrator piece doesn't need to be unplugged.
Battery can now be removed, but is as mentioned fastened very well. Try to pull it up on the left side to reach under it.
Unplug digitizer connector on the left side of the top PCB. Just peel off the yellow take and pull it out.
Peel loose the part of the metallic shielding that fastened the top PCB to the surface under where the battery was.
Top PCB can now be removed, start from right side.
Peel off the little "sticker" the digitizer connector goes to. This is probably part of what you're replacing, so it doesn't matter if you destroy it in the process. Otherwise try heating it.
Screen can finally be removed. It's removed from the front of the phone, same as for Zenfone 5. Start at the bottom. It's fastened with glue along all sides. If you're hoping not to ruin the LCD while removing the screen you will probably need a heat gun and extreme patience.
dodongobongo said:
Finally managed to replace the screen. This one was really difficult to repair compared to the previous phones I've worked on, but maybe in part because there are no complete instructions out there yet. Lots of glue and tape holding it all together.
The battery isn't really glued, but rather held down by some sticky plastic. (Kinda like chewing gum.) I don't think heating will help here. I used a long, flat plastic object to reach underneath and loosen it from the battery.
I forgot to take pictures, but here are the steps I took. You can find some photos for the first half of the procedure.
Remove 14 screws from the back cover
Carefully remove back plastic cover (double sided tape on center)
Unplug the three connectors going to the top PCB/SoC (these are screen, SIM/SD and battery)
Remove speaker (black piece at the bottom, nothing is holding it in place)
Remove bottom PCB: flip up the little black switch to loosen the connector cable next to the battery, then unplug the wire going to the top PCB, then you can remove it. Vibrator piece doesn't need to be unplugged.
Battery can now be removed, but is as mentioned fastened very well. Try to pull it up on the left side to reach under it.
Unplug digitizer connector on the left side of the top PCB. Just peel off the yellow take and pull it out.
Peel loose the part of the metallic shielding that fastened the top PCB to the surface under where the battery was.
Top PCB can now be removed, start from right side.
Peel off the little "sticker" the digitizer connector goes to. This is probably part of what you're replacing, so it doesn't matter if you destroy it in the process. Otherwise try heating it.
Screen can finally be removed. It's removed from the front of the phone, same as for Zenfone 5. Start at the bottom. It's fastened with glue along all sides. If you're hoping not to ruin the LCD while removing the screen you will probably need a heat gun and extreme patience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just cracked my phone. :crying:Thanks for the instructions. Before I decide to do this, are any of the adhesives necessary to put the phone back together?
Yes, order some double-tape for cellphones.
Glad I'm not the only one that succeded althought I scrapped the battery in my case .
I followed mostly the same steps but for anyone that want some pictures, I posted them in another thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/zenfone2/help/q-lcd-replacement-procedure-t3135165
Can asus ze550ml screen will fit to ze550kl model
@Ptselv: probably best to start a new thread rather than hijack one that is several months old.
And to answer your question: No, a ZE550ML screen will not fit a ZE550KL phone. My suggestion: search AliExpress.com for "ze551kl digitizer" and you'll be likely to find what you need.