Hello all, i have had an Archos 101g9 Turbo for best part of a couple of years now and although i really like the tablet its has not been without a couple of niggly problems that i wish to share my fix/workrounds.
Charging:
So the first was/is the charging, many people moan about the Archos 101 g9 Trbo not charging and myself including, i even purchased 2 new chargers and they all went down the same road. In the end i found that it was the micro usb becoming worn in such a way that even when plugged in the device reports its charging, yet never does - The answer for me is to plug in the charger and place a couple of coasters (or something aprox 10mm+ thick) under the micro usb plug, whilst the tablet is lying flat on the table surface. This has the effect of forcing the worn pins onto the pins in tablet and therefore charges. This has worked 100% since i starting doing this.
Unresponsive screen:
I noticed (as a coincidence btw) that shortly after a firmware update, that my screen became more and more none responsive with things like the left hand part of the screen was crap and the right was ok just.
Odd things like switching into standby and back appeared to fix the problem, but this ALWAYs got worse, to the point where it was becoming more and more frequent. Then in the end to the point where recalibrating, turning on and off etc did not work, even a sw rebuild didn't solve it eventually it would not work at all full stop. - In the end i managed to prize the back off with a little help from scholbert on here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1636768
And noticed that the gold ribbon that links to tablet to the screen appeared to be slightly dislodged, so i carefully pushed it back and checked the thinner white leads and made sure they were all pushed back fully home. I turned it on and hey presto ! screen working back to how i remember it when i first baught it \o/
Just though i would share because of the countless nonsense i have come across when trying to find a resolution to the above issues...
Related
It's not entirely xda problem, but the device is quite similar, i hope it's ok to ask you guys here...
I'm not even sure what exactly is this device but it operated normal WinCE2003.
I used this one for a short period of time, i got it second or even third handed. Unfortunately for me it broke down in front of me while charging. Suddenly the the screen went dead with pixels disapearing quite funny way. prior to this i noticed another strange thing - lights going off whilst plugged into mains, and lights on when unplugged - opposite to settings of the backlight. shortly after that, it went dead... charging leds still indicate charging, but thats it.
Is it possible that its only software/rom or any other "simple" problem, or should i look for hardware solutions (not easy, two service points labelled as "PDA repairs" returned it without a simplest diagnosis
I wouldn't like to just throw it away, or sell it for few quids, any help appreciated
This is a COMPAQ (back before HP bought the iPaq brand) iPaq H3630, but it ran WM 2000 (I am not sure if there is any ROM upgrade for this model).
What you have sounds like a hardware problem and although this was a good device when it was in its prime, it is now too old to be worth a fix.
Plus I am not even sure you can get perts for it any more.
Maybe buying another one second hand and using it for parts.
Still, just in case try power + reset or combinations of any two of the 4 function buttons on it for hard reset as well as removing the battery.
And let it charge for 24 hours.
If none of that works, your device is dead. My condolences.
Just activated a Epic 4G Touch last night. Been playing with it pretty much ever since but I'm having a strange problem with what appears to be the digitizer. If I put my finger on the lock screen and hold it there at times it will start jumping around in a crazy fashion. Is this behavior normal for the lockscreen?
It will also sometimes stop half-way through a homescreen pan in touchwiz and otherwise behave strangely and/or unresponsive sometimes selecting things that I have not pressed. The keys on the bottom are also sometimes unresponsive. Anyone else having a similar issue?
I did root it but did didn't mess with the kernel or anything else. I used this method:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1282418
I haven't seen any posts relating to this so perhaps I have a defective phone. Anyone know if a Sprint store would swap it out or do I have to send it back to Amazon (where I purchased it)?
It appears to be due to the wall-wart
Well, I've tracked the problem down. This digitizer issue only happens when I have the phone plugged into the wall using the Samsung 120VAC to USB adapter (the cube that came with the phone). No problem when the USB cable is plugged into the PC or through a different adapter that I had laying around.
Now I'm curious, can someone else try this: Plug in your phone with the Samsung adapter then turn it on and hold your finger on the screen... see if the lockstreen starts jumping around on you.
Thanks.
A number of people around here have noticed the problem including me.
Yeah man it's a known issue with pretty much everyone's phone. A small annoyance if I decide I want to use my phone after I've plugged it in for the night.
Also towards the end of the charge cycle and when it's fully charged, the problem will subside. Only when it's pumping a lot of power into the phone.
Try using a different adapter it works for me.I have my old Samsung captivate adapter and that does not happen anymore
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App
I used another adapter and it works fine. Looks like there is a defect in the Samsung ones then... I'm just hoping its not doing any damange to the phone as it's obviously sending a lot of electrical noise into it. None of the local Sprint stores (I tried 3) would swap the adapter for me since I brought it on Amazon. I called them and they gave me credit to buy a new one so I'm happy.
Thanks for the responses, glad to have cleared this up. Going back to root.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1264219
Sent from that damn ET 4-GEE!!
Hi everyone,
I've had my Desire Z for little over 2 years now and two months ago (was running CM7.2 at the time) I started getting a weird issue where my touchscreen would only be responsive when the keyboard was slid out (so the opposite problem of what quite a few other people have reported where the touchscreen becomes unresponsive when the keyboard is out). The status LED would also stay off whenever the keyboard was closed, and the keyboard backlight didn't come on anymore at all. Also, I had to make sure that the keyboard was slid out during boot, if the phone booted without the keyboard out the screen would not become responsive at all until after another reboot. My earpiece speaker stopped working around the same time so I was wondering whether it was just an issue with the flex cable becoming a bit loose, but the touchscreen would consistently start working again when I flipped the keyboard out, and also the physical scroll button on the top bit would always work, so I was still hoping it would be some weird software issue.
I then upgraded to Flinny's (amazing) Andromadus ROM (build 22, complete data+dalvik wipe) after which the keyboard backlight started working again, but the rest remained pretty much the same. Since then the touchscreen issues have been getting worse, so that I sometimes have to flip the keyboard in and out again a few times, or turn the screen on or off with the power button several times before it becomes responsive again, but then it tends to work fine until I lock the screen again, with no noticeable dead spots anywhere on the screen. I've had days where it worked all day without problems (except having to flip out the keyboard, that's been a constant for the past two months), and then today I haven't been able to get the screen to do anything at all even after dozens of reboots.
I've already bought a new digitizer and am all ready to put it in (I'll have to replace the broken earpiece anyway), but was wondering whether anyone has any thoughts on whether it could still be a software issue after all, or if anyone has experienced anything similar? The thing with having to flip the keyboard out to get not only the touchscreen but also the status LED to work is just so weird and makes me doubt that it's a pure broken digitizer or lose flex cable issue, so I'm wondering whether it would be better to first try reverting to a stock ROM before taking on the messy sticky glue stuff (I should be fine but still, never done it before)?
Many thanks!
From what you describe my best guess would be the main flex cable is what needs to be replaced. Flash a touch based recovery and see if you have the issue there as well, if so its very unlikely that its anything but a hardware fault
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for the heads-up, I've been playing around a bit more with software and I do manage to get the screen working again occasionally, typically after the second boot into a newly flashed ROM or restoring a backup, and only until one or two reboots later when it becomes completely unresponsive again. I've tried CM 7.2.0 as well as Flinny's Andromadus 10, and it is only complete flashing that does the trick, cache wipe or factory reset alone does nothing. The two occasions where the touchscreen worked were still limited to when the keyboard was flipped out, and it also had to be flipped out during boot, otherwise nothing would work. I've learned to navigate my way around the phone by just using the hardware navigation button, but I'll have a close look at the flex cable when I take it apart to replace the earpiece speaker tonight...
Hello,
so I took my dear phone apart yesterday to replace the broken earpiece - everything went fine but after reassembly the replacement earpiece isn't working either, which leads me to think that all those little broken bits might actually be related to some contacts being a bit lose, all in the same region. Should've thought about that earlier really since the earpiece and the LED (only works when keyboard flipped out) are both in that top region that the digitiser data presumable also has to run through before passing through the flex cable.
In any case, I also took a picture of the flex cable which is slightly bent but doesn't seem straightforwardly damaged (see attachment, that thing on the right is *not* a rip). Think it's worth trying to replace it anyway?
What was truly bizarre is that after the first boot following reassembly the touchscreen worked quite consistently for the entire evening - I thought I might've fixed a lose contact by un- and replugging the digitiser cable, but then the screen went nonreactive again at some point. I wonder if the working screen was again actually related to some software reset caused by the battery being taken out for so long? In the meantime the actual screen and trackball are still working away perfectly. Bizarre.
Just to let people know the solution to the mystery: the increasingly odd behaviour was actually caused by an initially small rip in the flex ribbon cable that got bigger and bigger - it's actually half-visible in the picture I uploaded above, only that the rip is where the cable comes out from underneath the case, and not where it's wrinkled!
Just in case it could be useful for anyone, here's the (top half of phone) components in the order in which they failed on me, which I guess corresponds to the order of the respective data lines in the ribbon cable (from the top of the phone towards the center):
environment brightness sensor (I thought that the sensor had been broken for almost a year, but as soon as I rebooted with the new flex cable I noticed how my phone stopped shining into my face at full brightness - if your brightness sensor gets stuck reporting the same (low) value this means your flex cable is on its way out!)
earpiece speaker
status led
touchscreen
screen (non-alignment with edge of screen, visual artefacts)
screen (fade to black/power interrupt)
obstacle3 said:
Just to let people know the solution to the mystery: the increasingly odd behaviour was actually caused by an initially small rip in the flex ribbon cable that got bigger and bigger - it's actually half-visible in the picture I uploaded above, only that the rip is where the cable comes out from underneath the case, and not where it's wrinkled!
Just in case it could be useful for anyone, here's the (top half of phone) components in the order in which they failed on me, which I guess corresponds to the order of the respective data lines in the ribbon cable (from the top of the phone towards the center):
environment brightness sensor (I thought that the sensor had been broken for almost a year, but as soon as I rebooted with the new flex cable I noticed how my phone stopped shining into my face at full brightness - if your brightness sensor gets stuck reporting the same (low) value this means your flex cable is on its way out!)
earpiece speaker
status led
touchscreen
screen (non-alignment with edge of screen, visual artefacts)
screen (fade to black/power interrupt)
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Click to collapse
I'll for sure keep that in mind. Mine is still going strong for the time being, but it's good to know some warning signs if I need to replace parts or if it's time to get a new phone
fireball0093 said:
I'll for sure keep that in mind. Mine is still going strong for the time being, but it's good to know some warning signs if I need to replace parts or if it's time to get a new phone
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Click to collapse
Replacement parts all the way, the repair was 15$ and it feels as good as new! Well, it could do with a new battery but that's just another 5..
Just realised that the proximity sensor should actually be added to the very top of the list - just noticed that faint red light when taking a phone call, don't remember seeing that in almost a year :]
obstacle3 said:
Replacement parts all the way, the repair was 15$ and it feels as good as new! Well, it could do with a new battery but that's just another 5..
Just realised that the proximity sensor should actually be added to the very top of the list - just noticed that faint red light when taking a phone call, don't remember seeing that in almost a year :]
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Click to collapse
That's not a bad cost at all. I know I'm going to have to replace my keyboard in probably 2 months or so (maybe sooner) because some buttons are starting to not work. Other than that fact my phone is currently still going strong for being going on a 3 and a half year old phone
Hi,
I have the gen 1 Moto 360 and I've used it pretty consistently since I got it shortly after release. I've recently started having a strange problem - if I turn the watch off (the whole thing through Settings, not the screen), it won't boot. It'll go through the Motorola "M" screen and then start on the Android Wear boot animation, but always crashes there. The screen turns off suddenly without any visible glitches or errors. I can do this all day long and it always crashes in the boot animation, though not always at the same time in it. On the other hand, if I place it in the charger (regardless of how much charge the battery has), it will automatically start booting and will make it all the way through no problem. I've tried booting through Recovery and even doing a Factory Reset but nothing seems to work other than putting it on the charger (which isn't terribly conventient unless I'm at home).
Based on some of the other threads I'm seeing this is probably a fairly minor problem (fairly easy to just not turn the watch off), but does anyone have any ideas on how to fix it (or even why putting it in the charger makes it work)?
Thanks!
Same problem being discussed here : http://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-360/help/frustrated-360-off-randomly-t3198154
this exact problem occurred with my first moto360. moto replaced it as though it were still under warranty. the replacement watch is now starting to do the same thing. looks like it is just due to battery age, like their hardware that is designed to prevent it from turning on with a "low" battery is reading it wrong. Android Wear is just unstable enough so that some days Wear doesn't respond and eventually ends with a reboot which means OFF until back at charger, even with 80-90% battery!
i had this exact problem. it was a dodgy battery, i opened the watch up and replaced the battery. Since then it has been good
Finding a good quality WX30 battery in August 2018
Are you able to share where you sourced a 'good' WX30 battery from?
I've been happy with my Moto 360 Gen 1 for exactly 2 years, until a couple of weeks ago when all the classic battery problems started (random shutdowns after a couple of hours, still 70% left, slightly bulging back). I've succeeded in learning how to get out the 4 clips, disassemble and reassemble the body, kudos = search for YouTube 'easy Moto 360 batery replacement video'.
Unless anyone has any good tips, I'm about to play the eBay battery lottery. Motorola has confirmed to me that they do not sell the batteries separately. Typical.
jonno66 said:
Are you able to share where you sourced a 'good' WX30 battery from?
I've been happy with my Moto 360 Gen 1 for exactly 2 years, until a couple of weeks ago when all the classic battery problems started (random shutdowns after a couple of hours, still 70% left, slightly bulging back). I've succeeded in learning how to get out the 4 clips, disassemble and reassemble the body, kudos = search for YouTube 'easy Moto 360 batery replacement video'.
Unless anyone has any good tips, I'm about to play the eBay battery lottery. Motorola has confirmed to me that they do not sell the batteries separately. Typical.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have literally changed mine this morning... So far so good, no random dying at 70%+ and I ordered this one... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163139641091
I doubt its genuine. its is 330mAh not 300mAh and is from a different manufacturer, however, its worth a tenner to see what happens! Also, how easy is the dissassembly fromt hat video, I watched the exact same one. was in peices in 10 minutes and back together quicker!
Platypus222 said:
Hi,
I have the gen 1 Moto 360 and I've used it pretty consistently since I got it shortly after release. I've recently started having a strange problem - if I turn the watch off (the whole thing through Settings, not the screen), it won't boot. It'll go through the Motorola "M" screen and then start on the Android Wear boot animation, but always crashes there. The screen turns off suddenly without any visible glitches or errors. I can do this all day long and it always crashes in the boot animation, though not always at the same time in it. On the other hand, if I place it in the charger (regardless of how much charge the battery has), it will automatically start booting and will make it all the way through no problem. I've tried booting through Recovery and even doing a Factory Reset but nothing seems to work other than putting it on the charger (which isn't terribly conventient unless I'm at home).
Based on some of the other threads I'm seeing this is probably a fairly minor problem (fairly easy to just not turn the watch off), but does anyone have any ideas on how to fix it (or even why putting it in the charger makes it work)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem
I leave it charging for 5 to 10 minutes and it will boot up but it also crashes and shuts down itself
I feel like the watch is selfaware
I need help
Thanks
Okay, hello XDA Forums peoples! Ive been lurking here for like a decade. I feel bad for bothering you nice people, but now I'm at my wits end with this phone.
Okay, so, long story short:
Z Fold 3, let it run the One U.I. 4 update, bricked the whole phone, wouldnt come back on. This happens a week away from being out of warranty. So i get samsung to agree to let Asurion/uBreakiFix repair it (I almost always fix my own electronics, I hate Asurion, I've had problems dealing with them before, but its free so whatever). Well they get it working, i asked what they did and they were basically like 'uhhh idk'. I assume it was just an 'unplug the battery and plug it back in' kind of thing.
Anyways fast forward to a couple months ago. Im walking along the creek, i always keep my phone in my backpack for safety. Zipper on my backpack comes open some, phone falls out and directly into the water for about 3-5 seconds. Goes black within 15 minutes. Alright, so it seems like maybe the boys who worked on this didnt seal it back properly. Whatever.
I let it dry for about 4 or 5 days. Comes back on, everything works except the front screen's digitizer(which is cool for me, because the inside screen still works fine) and its reporting too cold to charge, so now once the battery runs out i have a new foldable brick! Yay! I check the battery temperature thats reported in settings and its completely fine. I hit it with a hair dryer for like 5 minutes to try and trip the thermometer, and nothing happens.
I tried some cheap shots in the dark, i replace the USB charging board, i replace the wireless charging coil, both of which have thermistors on other older samsung phones, so i figured it was a decent guess. Still too cold to charge.
So I find a schematic, or not exactly a schematic, but like a boardview, i guess. So at least i know where the thermistors are to check them. Theres about 10 thermistors on the main and sub boards. 5 of which are covered by metal shielding which i am just terrified of trying to remove, mainly because i havent done it before. So i check the other half.
The thermistors used in these phones are like inverse, so they have less resistance for higher temps and more resistance for lower temps. If one of them is dead, it will have like "maximum resistance", right? Which would report the coldest possible temperature, right? So that all makes sense, to me at least.
The 5 i can get to with my meter to check, they seem to work completely fine. From what research ive done they seem to be like 100k resistors when measured at ~70 degrees f, and i can watch the resistance go up and down when its cooled or heated past that temperature. Okay, perfect. That all checks out.
Because the other ones are under some metal shielding, i assume theyre most likely fine because any water would have a harder time getting in there. So i skip to the most expensive option so far: i buy two replacement batteries. The schematics do not include the battery, so i dont know where the thermistors are on my current batteries to check them, if that was the problem.
Well, batteries came yesterday, i pop them in, still too cold to charge. I've already ran the phone dead checking it, so i cant do any further diagnostics with the phone on. And now the most i get is a Yield sign with a thermometer in it when i plug it in.
Okay, so... Idk?? This problem is starting to get over my head. What do y'all think? It seems like my options are becoming more limited and expensive.
I can try and put a big blob of solder on the top of the shielding and pull it off to check the remaining thermistors, which seems to be how people remove those things. I also have have hot air at my disposal, which is always risky with tiny things because too high airspeed might blow components away on the board and then i'll probably cry.
It could just be a connector somewhere on some flex cable? Maybe? I mean like maybe what if one of them is for reporting temperature, and water corrosion is stopping it from sending a signal through???
Im fine with doing whatever, but i just want a charged battery first so i can recover my data before i do anything that drastic. I mean, back in the day they had 4 big pads on a removable battery. You could buy a universal samsung battery charger or rig a USB cable to charge it, but I have literally no idea what to do here. Does anyone know of some specialized battery charger that will connect to these flex cables?? That would be a gigantic help right now. Or if i knew where to get a Z Fold 3 just to pop it open and charge my battery with? Or maybe just sit there for 2 hours holding two wires to the positive and negative pins?!??!?? I dont know. Someone throw ideas at me, please!
Might be worth buying a bench power supply and either injecting voltage through the phone or connecting it to the cells to trickle charge them back up? Im not an expert it these just throwing ideas