Long story short, dropped mine pretty far, it bent the frame slightly, just enough to effect the waterproofing. I found an all black frame and one have one of these? I think the Z1 would look pretty slick with an all black frame.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161129119057?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
oooooooo, i always hated the silver frame look around a black phone, please do post result pictures if you change it
Hi, I have replaced the entire outside housing and screen. It started off as a simple housing swap, cracked back battery cover, heavily scuffed and dented frame, and scratched beyond belief plastic bezels. I used a hairdryer to separate all of the housing. If you are doing this yourself, I'd advise you to be VERY patient and careful, because the lcd ribbon cables rips VERY easily, which is what happened to me lol. I bought a digitizer and LCD and loca'd them myself. The ribbon cable broke again. I ended up buying a complete screen costing over $100.
The frame in the eBay link looks like it is missing the magnetic charging port and possibly the speaker grill, so you'll need to extract it from your old frame. There is a tiny retaining pin that needs to be removed before you can force out the port. You'll need to superglue or glue it with a waterproof sealant/adhesive. The headphone jack is also a nightmare to remove from the old frame, It is very hard to remove without damaging it. The plastic cover became separated on mine so its safe to say I have lost waterproofing capabilities on my z1. All the tiny connectors flew out and I had to reassemble it. (very time consuming & difficult)
If you're only replacing the frame you'll need a T4 Screwdriver, the original back cover adhesive. You just need to be super careful because this is a difficult repair. Its hard to guarantee waterproofing afterwards! Anyways I wish you luck if you do because I messed up. There is also a detailed disassembly guide on YouTube which you can follow. The black z1 is before the repair, the white is the repaired z1, with black magnetic port and speaker grill, which I think looks nice and unique.
Mine's got a black frame(from the original), white bezel on the front and purple bezel at the back with a white battery cover. puple and white is good combo for me.
Thats the standard frame, not all black(very poor pics make it look all black) and the price is very steep even if it is an OEM part its around $20(+$13 shipping lol) more than from a legit OEM distributor. I would be cautious but OP did you receive the item yet?
haha this is exactly my story
bought housing, later screwed up screen, magnet port and audio jack so bought all that as well. also the water seal for speakers and mic.
it looks exactly like yours before it was black and now its white.
Related
Has anyone had to replace their screen? If so, where did you buy your screen from? I have been looking on eBay and have found decent prices. I just worry about buying stuff from China / Hong Kong that might not work. If you have replaced your screen, or you know a place that sells reputable parts, please let me know!!!
Have you pulled the screen yet and got the part numbers?
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA Premium HD app
I bought a very cheap Galaxy Note 10.1 with a cracked glass at eBay. At the same time I bought a replacement glass also at eBay.
When I received the tablet I noticed there was really no need to replace the glass since the crack was outside the viewing area and didn't affected at all visibility or touch.
Even so, I decided to change the glass because the tablet was white and the glass I ordered was black and I find it much better for watching movies and also the white border tends to darken the colours when using a paint program. (so now my tablet is unique: black in the front, white in the back
The Note is very easy to disassemble if you have the adequate tools for opening plastic cases. It is very modular so it is all a matter of removing connectors and taking pieces out. Finally you have the front case and the glass and here is the difficult thing because the glass is glued to the case so you have to apply heat with a heat gun on low or a hair dryer on high until the glue becomes soft and easy to separate. even so, I broke my old glass even more when trying to remove it. It may be Gorilla glass, very resistant to scratches, but it is thin as hell, very fragile.
Placing the new glass was much easier. It comes with glue and screen protectors on both sides.
My only concern was the original glass had a thin layer of dark grey EVA all around the screen that I suppose is for cushioning the gap between the glass and the LCD and the replacement glass didn't have it. But I haven't had any problem with the new glass and apparently, all the replacement glasses I've seen don't have this EVA layer. Tactile detection is perfect, just like the original.
Here is the link to the seller:
/itm/TOUCH-SCREEN-DIGITIZER-GLASS-SAMSUNG-GALAXY-NOTE-10-1-GT-N8000-N8010-N8013-/330897546168?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item4d0b07dbb8
If anybody knows about how to add the thin layer of EVA or somebody who sells it, please, leave a reply.
A great guide about how to disassemble the Note can be found in IFIXIT:
/Teardown/Samsung+Galaxy+Note+10.1+Teardown/10144/1
Sorry about the broken links. As I am new, the forum doesn't let me post them. Just add the root URL of the mentioned site
jedikalimero said:
I bought a very cheap Galaxy Note 10.1 with a cracked glass at eBay. At the same time I bought a replacement glass also at eBay.
When I received the tablet I noticed there was really no need to replace the glass since the crack was outside the viewing area and didn't affected at all visibility or touch.
Even so, I decided to change the glass because the tablet was white and the glass I ordered was black and I find it much better for watching movies and also the white border tends to darken the colours when using a paint program. (so now my tablet is unique: black in the front, white in the back
The Note is very easy to disassemble if you have the adequate tools for opening plastic cases. It is very modular so it is all a matter of removing connectors and taking pieces out. Finally you have the front case and the glass and here is the difficult thing because the glass is glued to the case so you have to apply heat with a heat gun on low or a hair dryer on high until the glue becomes soft and easy to separate. even so, I broke my old glass even more when trying to remove it. It may be Gorilla glass, very resistant to scratches, but it is thin as hell, very fragile.
Placing the new glass was much easier. It comes with glue and screen protectors on both sides.
My only concern was the original glass had a thin layer of dark grey EVA all around the screen that I suppose is for cushioning the gap between the glass and the LCD and the replacement glass didn't have it. But I haven't had any problem with the new glass and apparently, all the replacement glasses I've seen don't have this EVA layer. Tactile detection is perfect, just like the original.
Here is the link to the seller:
/itm/TOUCH-SCREEN-DIGITIZER-GLASS-SAMSUNG-GALAXY-NOTE-10-1-GT-N8000-N8010-N8013-/330897546168?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item4d0b07dbb8
If anybody knows about how to add the thin layer of EVA or somebody who sells it, please, leave a reply.
A great guide about how to disassemble the Note can be found in IFIXIT:
/Teardown/Samsung+Galaxy+Note+10.1+Teardown/10144/1
Sorry about the broken links. As I am new, the forum doesn't let me post them. Just add the root URL of the mentioned site
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey sorry i know this thread been dead for over a year but i just smashed my note 10.1 2012 glass and found some on online for ~15 bucks. The one i found is for Model gt-n8010 and mine is gt-n8013. My question is will the glass fit/work on my n8013 if the description says 8010. Thx in advance
VenpaCasa said:
Hey sorry i know this thread been dead for over a year but i just smashed my note 10.1 2012 glass and found some on online for ~15 bucks. The one i found is for Model gt-n8010 and mine is gt-n8013. My question is will the glass fit/work on my n8013 if the description says 8010. Thx in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it should work fine. I just replaced mine and the description for the part said, for GT-N 8000 covering Gt-N 8010, 8013 etc. The part worked great.
VenpaCasa said:
Hey sorry i know this thread been dead for over a year but i just smashed my note 10.1 2012 glass and found some on online for ~15 bucks. The one i found is for Model gt-n8010 and mine is gt-n8013. My question is will the glass fit/work on my n8013 if the description says 8010. Thx in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The same glass will work for models 8000, 8010 and 8013. The difference between them is the 3G connectivity so it doesn't affect the glass design (it could have not been necessarily the case, but it does. A good example of not taking anything for granted is the Galaxy S3 where the screen bezel is different from 3G to 4G version)
jedikalimero said:
The same glass will work for models 8000, 8010 and 8013. The difference between them is the 3G connectivity so it doesn't affect the glass design (it could have not been necessarily the case, but it does. A good example of not taking anything for granted is the Galaxy S3 where the screen bezel is different from 3G to 4G version)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here have a thumbs up! Do I need special tools is there a kit I can buy? I've done this before but on other devices and it was a while ago I just don't want to damage/scratch the body. It's only the screen that's shattered. If there is a kit can u point me in the right direction?
Sent from my SM-N900P using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
VenpaCasa said:
Here have a thumbs up! Do I need special tools is there a kit I can buy? I've done this before but on other devices and it was a while ago I just don't want to damage/scratch the body. It's only the screen that's shattered. If there is a kit can u point me in the right direction?
Sent from my SM-N900P using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In ifixit there is a very good tear-down of the Galaxy Note 10.1 where you can clearly see the process for opening the tablet and accessing the glass:
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Samsung+Galaxy+Note+10.1+Teardown/10144
Basically you remove the silver piece where the camera is, then the back plate, and then you begin to remove components (battery, motherboard, speakers, cameras, docking port, audio jack, etc) until you have just the frame, the glass and the LCD. Then you have to break some plastic fasteners to get loose the metal frame and release the LCD. At that point you have the silver plastic bezel with the glass attached to it. Applying heat with a hair-dryer to loosen the glue, remove the broken glass and then apply the new one. Then follow the reverse process to get everything inside again.
You can test the tablet with just the glass, LCD, motherboard and battery to check the screen is working OK. Then disconnect the battery again and put back the rest of the components. Another check before closing the back plate and there you go.
As for tools, you will need a screwdriver for the screws, a guitar prick for the back plate and some flat plastic tool to release the internal connectors. You can see the tools in the pictures of the tear-down.
One last thing: make sure the glass you order includes the touch sensor. The glass alone is of no use (still there are people who sell it)
bezel
jedikalimero said:
In ifixit there is a very good tear-down of the Galaxy Note 10.1 where you can clearly see the process for opening the tablet and accessing the glass:
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Samsung+Galaxy+Note+10.1+Teardown/10144
Basically you remove the silver piece where the camera is, then the back plate, and then you begin to remove components (battery, motherboard, speakers, cameras, docking port, audio jack, etc) until you have just the frame, the glass and the LCD. Then you have to break some plastic fasteners to get loose the metal frame and release the LCD. At that point you have the silver plastic bezel with the glass attached to it. Applying heat with a hair-dryer to loosen the glue, remove the broken glass and then apply the new one. Then follow the reverse process to get everything inside again.
You can test the tablet with just the glass, LCD, motherboard and battery to check the screen is working OK. Then disconnect the battery again and put back the rest of the components. Another check before closing the back plate and there you go.
As for tools, you will need a screwdriver for the screws, a guitar prick for the back plate and some flat plastic tool to release the internal connectors. You can see the tools in the pictures of the tear-down.
One last thing: make sure the glass you order includes the touch sensor. The glass alone is of no use (still there are people who sell it)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does anyone know where to find a front bezel? I did see the one from parts4all or whatever its called overseas with shipping as much as it costs and god knows when it would arrive- I cannot seem to find any.
My screen just shattered yesterday after a drunk night out. I went and ordered a replacement glass from ebay since I'm assuming that it's the glass that's only broken. The touchscreen works fine. I can still use it normally. I have a few questions before I begin. I've watched youtube videos on taking the phone apart. I've read a bunch of threads. I just want to be extra careful.
What do you use to keep the new glass onto the lcd screen? I saw some 2mm 3M adhesive tape. I read that it'll make the screen very sensitive. I've seen people reusing the black adhesive tape it came with.
The tools: Hair dryer, small Phillips head screw driver, metrocards, guitar pick, plastic pry tool, razer blades, rubbing alcohol.
Random though, has anyone bought a different colored glass from their original color? Grey glass with white home button and vice versa. Seems dope lol.
Thanks!
Yesterday I tried to change the housing of my defy. After watching some disassembling videos I started. Conclusion: To get the Defy water resistant after the intervention is an illusion. First most of the plastic screw noses were broken. They are really too fragile for a phone which will fit the IP67 standard. For replacing them you have to change the whole front housing. But with changing it you either have to buy a front housing together with the touch screen or you have to replace the touch screen which means you have to glue booth parts (front housing with touch screen) together!
Second the screws are a shame the reusing of them is a gambling game moreover they are setscrews within plastic. Screw heads wear out really fast because to soft material.
In the third place most of the parts are firmly connected with the housing, eg. the LED light, a few seals, some sheet metals, etc. Most of them you have to inherit to the new housing because of the lack within the new housing. With that in mind water resistance is gone, too.
Conclusing: The Motoroly Defy is a disposable device. The repair is too expensive (not even in money) and water resistance isn't guaranteed either. So buying a new phone or a barely used one is far easier than to try a repair of the old one. Too bad, but thats the way of market economy.
the front housing is indeed too expensive to be worth replacing. they replaced mine on warranty after i purposely damaged the touchscreen from the inside without leaving any trace. the rest of the housing is very cheap. about the side screw ears they are indeed too fragile and you may need to reinforce them from the inside by supergluing some paper that acts as fiber and then carefully sandpaper the excess so you can mount it back. you must lubricate the pink rubber seal from the inside with a little silicone oil to make it adhere better to the middle housing. also you have to lube the seal from the back cover to make it regain its elasticity. the lock from the back cover also has to be tighten by pressing with a heated spoon on its solder point. the usb seal usually gets too loose and cannot be fixed without replacing the whole middle housing.
i did all of this to experiment with it but the truth is this is too troublesome for most people and not worth the time or money.
Are You sure that oil used to lubricate the seals will not damage the rubber?
Considering the new xperia x has one and that the back cover on the z3 is easily replaced, wouldn't it be a great idea to give your old phone an updated look by just putting a custom back on it!
Can be done. The camera plastic cover is glued to the back cover from the inside?
isn't it like a Faraday cage? does it kill the wifi + mobile signals?
bookworth said:
isn't it like a Faraday cage? does it kill the wifi + mobile signals?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Shouldn't kill them (maybe it will be tricky with NFC). The thing is that the frame around the phone is plastic, so that should be enough for the WiFi.
Guids said:
Considering the new xperia x has one and that the back cover on the z3 is easily replaced, wouldn't it be a great idea to give your old phone an updated look by just putting a custom back on it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THat's a good idea. I thought about it and was wondering about the Faraday effect. But then again I would settle with anything that is not glass to be honest.
I'm sure that anybody with a CNC could make a custom backplate in POM or any other resistant plastic...
Now to find somebody on the forum with a CNC and spare time!
I made my own in acryllic plastic.
1. Cut out in 1mm acryllic sheet using the old back as a template and then cut with Exactoknife(Needs to cut/draw a line several times with exactoknife, acryllic is tough to cut, also needs to be sanded down to same size as old cover. Sanded evenly and not to fast to prevent friction heat that messes up the acryllic)
2. Take out camera lens from the old frame (Adhesive tape, easy to remove with exacto)
3. Drill a hole for camera lens using old back as template.
4. Sanded both sides from 80 to 120(Wood) then 400>600>800>1200 Silicone carbide paper(Wet)
5. Heated it up evenly with a flame on both sides to give it a darker smoked color then stuck it between two flat objects to prevent it bubbling or deforming until it cooled down.
(Heated back and forth so it didnt get too hot and had time to cool)
6. Once cool, washed with water.
7. A few smooth strokes against 1200 Silicone Carbide (Wet) to even out any irragularities
8. Dried, then a few smooth strokes with 1200 Silicone Carbide dry, sideways to have an even pattern and smooth surface.
9. Took the camera lens, glued into hole. Let dry then 1200dry sanded around camera hole to remove glue residue. (Dont sand the camera lens or you have to polish it. Major PITA..)
10. Took the top part of the black sticker from the inside of the old glass cover, cut out the top camera part as a square and stuck it around camera and flash to prevent flash bleeds.
11. Reapply new adhesive tape to the cover and reapply it and voila, waterproof again
This is my 3rd, made it last night, rushed job as I was tired wanting to sleep, so did not care about looks.
Also couldn't find one of my previous glass covers so I had to reuse the camera lens and sticker from the old plastic cover.
Resulting in the camera lens outer ring breaking off and the sticker being semi sticky and filled with bubbles. But it functions, which was the main idea.
Didnt bother about sanding it decently so there's still scratches, but it gives you an picture what it looks like.
If done properly and more patiently you can get a smoother texture, no air bubbles and a non broken lens, but once superglued that lens is stuck rocksolid.
Hey guys, is there a drawing of the back cover available?
I would like to try a 3D-print, after the second back cover is broken.
But I don't have a radius gauge and need the radius of the corners.
Thanks for your help.
@mike the pike
what a coincidence!
I have made a modell in FreeCad because I had the same idea like you. But I don't have a 3D printer, so my plan was to order it from a german company which offers to cut parts out of plastic plates.
I'am not a drawing or CAD profi, in fact this was my first experience with stuff like this, but I am pretty shure my modell is quite accurate. My only opportunity to test it, was to print a 1:1 sketch and compare it with the (broken) original backcover.
Feel free to use and modify my work, but please tell me if it works. :highfive:
Doing this, part one
I spent some time in the machine shop on campus yesterday, and, with the help of the assistants, made a metal back out of sheet aluminum.
The toughness is far superior to glass, and the strength is, too (the glass used on the Z3 Compact by default is somewhat pathetic).
From here, I was planning to first apply a brushed finish with an abrasive pad and WD-40 (thanks, YouTube) then either anodize (time to steal a HVPS from a hardware store?) black, or pay someone to apply a thermoset powder coat. Anodizing would probably yield better results, and be cheaper, but the scratch resistance on the aluminum is a bit low, so thermoset would help a bit. Oh, and the bottom left corner is a little bit off. Might get some silicone caulk and apply at the corner for waterproofing. Otherwise, it turned out extremely well. Filed down the corners myself to get the perfect fit.
One problem that I have is the flash. The normal back glass is a plane of glass stretching across the LED in the back. Will either 3D print it, or, more realistically, just stick a spare Z3 Compact camera lens cover on it and call it a day. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Also, I'm not allowed to post images, since I made this account for this . If you're interested in the result, PM me.
Eric
P.S.: NFC doesn't work but reception is perfect.
Barrel_Trollz said:
I spent some time in the machine shop on campus yesterday, and, with the help of the assistants, made a metal back out of sheet aluminum.
The toughness is far superior to glass, and the strength is, too (the glass used on the Z3 Compact by default is somewhat pathetic).
From here, I was planning to first apply a brushed finish with an abrasive pad and WD-40 (thanks, YouTube) then either anodize (time to steal a HVPS from a hardware store?) black, or pay someone to apply a thermoset powder coat. Anodizing would probably yield better results, and be cheaper, but the scratch resistance on the aluminum is a bit low, so thermoset would help a bit. Oh, and the bottom left corner is a little bit off. Might get some silicone caulk and apply at the corner for waterproofing. Otherwise, it turned out extremely well. Filed down the corners myself to get the perfect fit.
One problem that I have is the flash. The normal back glass is a plane of glass stretching across the LED in the back. Will either 3D print it, or, more realistically, just stick a spare Z3 Compact camera lens cover on it and call it a day. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Also, I'm not allowed to post images, since I made this account for this . If you're interested in the result, PM me.
Eric
P.S.: NFC doesn't work but reception is perfect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume that the glass they use for the camera lens is of a convex design such to scatter the light intensity for maximum coverage of the subject. It won't be so easy as just using any untreated material unless you want a dull-flash. Assuming you've already made your cuts to good tolerances, then why not just source your adhesives from the OEM itself? Save yourself some work. The proper way to apply those adhesives(as such to retain the water-resistant nature) is to use a hot plate up to 100 C and place it on the plate for a few seconds before pulling it off.
I'm mainly worried about the cut at the bottom left. It's not at all made to a good tolerance. I did buy the adhesive sticker, and I plan to use it, but some silicone wouldn't hurt on that one place.
Also, there is a bit of distortion when I look through it, so you're right. Not much I can do about it, though, but pray to the gods of diffraction.
allerd said:
@mike the pike
what a coincidence!
I have made a modell in FreeCad because I had the same idea like you. But I don't have a 3D printer, so my plan was to order it from a german company which offers to cut parts out of plastic plates.
I'am not a drawing or CAD profi, in fact this was my first experience with stuff like this, but I am pretty shure my modell is quite accurate. My only opportunity to test it, was to print a 1:1 sketch and compare it with the (broken) original backcover.
Feel free to use and modify my work, but please tell me if it works. :highfive:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I didn't visit this site quiet a wile.
I lent me a radius-gauge and I think I found some good values.
Unfortunately I don't have them in mind, because I gave them to a colleague, how will 3D-print the cover for me.
As I only made hand-drawing, he will transcript it into any 3D-data-file, which I will provide you here, as soon as I received the results.
So stay tuned.
The cover for the camera is still usable and I plan to insert it into the new back-cover, but I'm quite at a loss about the flashlight.
p.s. Yesterday I mounted my 4th back-cover
Accurate 3D model and curves for creating z3c back cover:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1998130
Mission complete
Hi all!
I finished my metal back cover. Still a new user, so can't post images, but I just wanted to let you guys know that I completed it and the phone is 100% functional (aside from NFC, RIP).
In the end, I anodized the aluminum and used a thin plastic sheet sealed with superglue around the flash (flash works fine BTW), and gave it a little brushed finish afterwards that cut into the anodized piece ever so slightly.
I'm very happy with it, the finish on this phone is unlike any I've ever felt. Smooth, yet solid, soft, yet sturdy. The phone is cool to the touch when in standby. The camera was a bit wonky at first, but as I pressed down into the metal back it stabilized, and now seems very resilient. The anodization itself didn't go all that smoothly (took four tries), with the metal part itself ending up with an uneven finish. It being black and brushed helps, as the texture undulates, making up for the inconsistencies.
I made a post to /r/Android with images and more details. Same username as on here. Go check it out if you're interested.
Eric
Mission also complete
I finished now my 3D-printed backcover and it is quite satisfying.
I made it by using the file railpl posted.
Unfortunately it is about half a mm to short so there is a small gap on the short side, but for me it is okay.
I used the lenscover from my old glassback and drilled a tiny hole for the flashlite.
So I think it is not waterproof anymore.
For anyone contemplating these repairs, they turned out to be much simpler than I expected.
Camera lens
The lens can actually be replaced without removing the rear cover of the phone. Simply use a knife to carefully gouge out the broken glass, clean off the old glue, then stick the new ones into place.
Rear cover
I bought an original Xiaomi cover on Ali Express for $60. They seem to be getting more and more scarce, so if you're thinking about doing it, do it sooner rather than later.
To remove, I heated the edges a little with a hairdryer, then wiggled a work knife into the gap and worked my way around, sliding the knife and lifting. Once you get it going it's not difficult, but you need a little patience. Once you get enough done, lift the cover to get the rest of it off.
Be careful with lifting because the fingerprint sensor is attached. To remove it at the phone end, the connector is very small but easy to get off, it's a press-in connector, so just carefully insert the very corner of your knife under the edge and lift. It comes off easily, so if you're having to work at it you're doing it wrong.
To remove the sensor from the old cover, warm it with the hair dyrer, then use a very thin knife or blade and work carefully around the edge. It won't come out until you've worked all the way round, lifting more than cutting. Once out, the glue is recessed slightly, so the sensor stands out and fits into the hole in the cover, which means positioning isn't a problem. You can probably buy the glue piece, but I didn't have it so I just put it back in the new cover using the old glue, I warmed it a bit and then weighted it back in place for a while. It seemed to be pretty firmly in place, and I don't think it's going anywhere anyway once the cover is back on, since it's up against the rest of the phone.
Check around the edges of the phone for remnants of the old glue. It comes out easily, just push a bit with the knife to get the end up, then lift and pull and it'll come out in a single strand.
The replacement cover comes pre-glued, although it's not really glue, more of a sticky seal. Starting at the camera end, position the cover and push it into place. There's a pop when it goes in, and I think even without the glue it would be fine. I then warmed the edges and weighted it down for a while.
Hello comrade, thank you for sharing your experience.
Now, it wouldn't be a bad idea to share with us the links (if XDA allows this kind of links) for the purchase of your spare parts.
Internet is very rough, and in my case, I buy almost everything in Aliexpress, it is very difficult to find good sellers with good prices.
This way, your contribution will be much more complete.
Thanks a lot, and greetings.
Hi
I will attempt a similar replacement but I just have some questions. How did you swap the nfc and wireless charging coil and do you think it is possible to do a "clear" version of the back cover (removing the interior paint)
thank you