Develop Bugs

"Inside" the Standard Xoom Dock

Ive been plagued by the thought that the damn dock should...by all accounts have a USB out. Now I suppose that it may have came down to a decision point of "Which is the more likely scenario... audio out or USB to a computer out", but I find myself squarely in the "dont care about audio" side of that debate.
The idea would be to crack this little sucker open, see whats inside and (hopefully) take the micro-usb connection that it has out the back of the dock with a new tip.
Now that Ive opened it up, I believe I can get there. I'll tinker around with it in the next few days to verify things like theres no "control" (or similar) signal running through the USB connections from a power perspective and whatnot. If I can do it, it will be my intent to make it look as stock as I can and I'll be sure to post any walkthroughs, pics, etc that somebody else might want.
To open it up, you have to remove the rubber pad from the bottom. Its got a lot of adhesive on it and (at least in my case) looks like something that I can successfully stick back on.
Under that, you'll find what appears to be depressions in the plastic bottom. Take a utility knife (or similar) and cut around the edges of the depressions. They are part of a plastic film that I saw absolutely no reason to be afraid of removing.
Once the holes are exposed, you'll need a T4 bit to remove the screws. Then you can just open it up.
Thats the extent of my exploration so far...
Heres a pic:

While you are at it...
Would you mind checking which of the connectors for charging is (+) and which is (-)? If I am really trying to build that alternative charger connector then I'll need to know. Thanks man!

funnycreature said:
Would you mind checking which of the connectors for charging is (+) and which is (-)? If I am really trying to build that alternative charger connector then I'll need to know. Thanks man!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The power is run to the right pin, if you were just starring at the device from the front.

gigglebox said:
The power is run to the right pin, if you were just starring at the device from the front.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This will come in handy when the time is right! :thumb up:

as far as i can tell all you would need to do is make sure there is enuff room and put a male to female cable inside. No need to mess with the board inside.

I think you've got a great idea. Any Progress yet.

Thanks for posting this picture. I'm going to do a straightforward mod by simply drilling a hole out the backside of the dock, running the wire through the hole and soldering the leads together. This method keeps me from having to dremel an exact fit USB-A connection and providing an internal support for the port.

Oooooh yeah, mine will be ghetto rigged tonight. I'll order a female mini USB socket from digikey or somewhere to make it a little better in the future - but for tonight its getting hacked together.
Thanks for the pic, it was just enough encouragement to take it apart.

I'm tempted to buy the cradle, is there any way you can take a picture of the front and back of the PCB, I'm curious if there are existing pads for the USB cable.
I'm also curious about the possibility of adding a micro HDMI connection to the standard dock to make a "Swiss Army" dock, those pictures would help be get a better idea if I should buy this dock or the HDMI dock.

I don't understand why Moto didn't make a dock with power, HDMI, USB, and headphone. Then you can keep everything hooked to the dock and add/remove the device as desired. This is how most PC docks work. Is there a technical issue that would preclude all ports being brought out from the bottom connections (understanding the devices headphone jack is on the top)??
A design issue I see as far as wear and tear is the lack of docking "keys" built into the bottom of the device to aid in port alignment. It seems like getting the right alignment will be hit and miss and could put undo stress on the ports.

You were using a nail clipper to open it?
If I spend the cash for a moto brand dock, I am going to add a fullsize USB/HDMI and power to it. There is no excuse for not including these.

Do it and post the instructions, I want
Sent from my MZ604 using Tapatalk

ive modded my dock to have a usb in so i can use the dock and have my hard drive connected at the same time you can check it out @
forum.androidcentral.com/showthread.php?p=835069&posted=1#post835069

Hi, I'm bumping this thread to ask if there's any chip or so in the dock to control the audio? I would lika to make a microUSB to 3.5mm cable to avoid the distrubances from the wifi in the badly insulated headphone-port.
I imagine there must be since usb is a digital signal and headphones use analog signals. Maybe I should go all the way and make a pocket amp instead
Thanks

[HMOD]Wireless Charging for home and on the go

This has already been done for the EVO 4g using Palm Touchstone capable scraps but I want to take it to another level. Since i'm not much of a programmer I can add to the community in this way.
Please let me know how many of you are interested in this. I'm going to put up full walk throughs as I move along but I will also sell some off (in the marketplace) for those that don't want to go through the hassle. I'm going to start ordering parts and building mock-ups and doing some design work during slow downs at work. I'll have a donation link up eventually if any one wants to help cover the initial costs.
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CURRENT DEVELOPMENT STAGE: 1- INDUCTIVE CASE RESEARCH, see #1​
PLEASE KEEP AN EYE ON THIS POST (general updates) AND POST#3 (useful links and eventually tutorial)
:good:KEEP DISCUSSION AROUND THE FOLLOWING DESIGN INTENTIONS/ ABOVE DEVELOPMENT STAGE:good:
Design Intents are as follows:
1) A case for housing the inductive coil/wiring
This just requires compatible cases with necessary clearance for the inductive coil and wiring to the male micro usb. Cases with oversized bumpers would be best since they will keep drops from damaging the micro usb plug that will be sticking out of the bottom of the phone. This may not be ideal so if anyone is decent and making plastic molds maybe we could come up with an attachment to a case.
2)NO Hard wiring inside/to the phone
This involves using low profile male mirco USB type B connectors, like this, and mounting and wiring to the case. This will keep your plug always covered and keep you from trying to charge your phone with both inductive and regular usb to the wall/pc. The main design issue here is protecting the male connector to the phone. Suggest usb connectors, wiring, how to boost the amperage, does the palm pre coil protect from over voltage, etc.
3)A car kit.
I will start with my car, A nissan sentra SR, for the car kit. Others are encouraged to come up/share your solutions as well! This should be a hard wired solution using the palm pre/pixi round touchstone dock. Kind of like a dash mount. I think the magnet should hold the phone ok being that my car isn't one of the most powerful things on the planet but for you hot rodders out there keep that possible issue in mind.
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Current Progress: CASE​Alright I have the cases in hand! I got three of them in the mail and will be tearing these apart this weekend. The pucks (touchstone bases) should be here sometime next week.
I'm also looking at the following cases
Ballistic
Ballistic 2
Clear S Case
The ballistic I am hoping will give clearance for the micro usb. They will be a bit heavier though... we'll see.
I going to order 2 cases for starters, what should they be?
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**ANY ORIGINAL IDEA/METHOD/MODIFICATION DISCUSSED IN THE THREAD IS THE SOLE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY OF THE CONTRIBUTOR AND IS NOT OPEN FOR COMMERCIALIZATION WITH OUT THE DIRECT CONSENT OF THE ORIGINAL CONTRIBUTOR- In other words... don't rip off your buddies ideas and give credit where due**

Wrong thread

Useful Links and Resources
Useful Links and Resources
This post will provide you with the knowledge necessary to learn what you need to complete this project. Any helpful links your share in this thread will be copied here.
General Info
What is Electromagnetic Induction? - HERE
A little about wireless power distribution - HERE
Other Mod References
ManiacMagic's E4GT Soldered Inductive Mod - HERE
darrenf's from android central Soldered - HERE
(thanks DaisyPlucksta for the links)
Helpful Videos
qianqinde's how-to for International GS2 (soldered) - HERE thank's rwilco12

Regarding the thread, this would be hardware development which i believe belongs in the general section. As for the idea, it seems like as long as its not too bulky most users wouldn't mind if it extended battery life substantially like 24 hours or more. Could make you rich with over 9.million sgsIII owners. But Im pretty sure there are already many types of chargers on the market so unless i missed something perhaps you should submit this to a patent office so no one steals the idea or design. Just my two cents dinner no one else has posted. But ya not software development so I would move three thread before you get flamed too bad.

No flaming allowed.
Sent from my "I didn't text you last night… Jack Daniels texted you" using xda premium

Maybe in accessories? Good luck. Sound fun. I might be interested once your done.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

abw0046 said:
This has already been done for the EVO 4g using Palm Touchstone capable scraps but I want to take it to another level. Since i'm not much of a programmer I can add to the community in this way.
Design Intents are as follows:
1) A case based solution, the ET4G is too damn thin!
This is just require compatible cases with necessary clearance and materials
that are least obstructive to the magnetic field.
2)NO Hard wiring inside/to the phone
This involves ordering male mirco USB type B connectors and mounting and wiring to the case. This will keep your plug always covered and keep you from trying to charge your phone with both inductive and regular usb to the wall/pc. The only issue here is protecting the male connector to the phone. I've some ideas for this but will be very dependent on the case we use.
3)A car kit.
I will start with my car, A nissan sentra SR, for the car kit. This will be a hard wired solution using the palm pre/pixi round touchstone dock. Kind of like a dash mount. I think the magnet should hold the phone ok being that my car isn't one of the most powerful things on the planet but for you hot rodders I'll keep that possible issue in mind.
Please let me know how many of you are interested in this. I'm going to put up full walk throughs as I move along but I will also sell some off for those that don't want to go through the hassle (is that ok on here? or do i need to set up donations?). Either way let me know because I'm going to start order parts and doing some design work during slow downs at work.
Thoughts? Concerns?
Oh and if you have other devices you would like this type of solution for I'm cool with that. Just ask and we'll work through it!
OH man... here we go!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm game! I tried doing it myself but I could only find the one spot on the USB plug to hook up to. I opted but to do it because there was some massive dismantling and soldering I would've had to do. I've still got the parts ready for when someone smarter than me figures out an easier way to do it though!

playingbball20 said:
Wrong thread
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Technically, he is developing something. Just not code.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA

great idea. i have 4 touchstones kicking around. would love to be able to use them.

Technically, this IS "development"
Anyway, I would be interested in this myself. Seems like a great idea. I'm pretty handy & I have a welder/soldering station at my job. Would be happy to help out.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA

I would pay money for this...
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA

This sounds very cool. And technically this is development. Just not software related. So I don't see where else this could go.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA

abw0046 said:
This has already been done for the EVO 4g using Palm Touchstone capable scraps but I want to take it to another level. Since i'm not much of a programmer I can add to the community in this way.
.......
Please let me know how many of you are interested in this. I'm going to put up full walk throughs as I move along but I will also sell some off for those that don't want to go through the hassle (is that ok on here? or do i need to set up donations?). Either way let me know because I'm going to start order parts and doing some design work during slow downs at work.
Thoughts? Concerns?
Oh and if you have other devices you would like this type of solution for I'm cool with that. Just ask and we'll work through it!
OH man... here we go!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a thought.
What would be the charging time using touchstone/conductive charging; or in other words, what would be the output voltage/current provided to the phone. It takes a while on regular chargers to charge the phone compared to HTC phones.

haha I actually did this too my I500. Literally car kit and everything. Even had it play music through Bluetooth. except I hated cases on that phone so I hardwired it. looked so much sexier. But the case is easier. Built like that too just didn't have the car cradle
sent from aokp tablet sgs2

lickarock said:
Technically, he is developing something. Just not code.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True

How much would this be for a car charger and home charger wireless
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium

I have 2 palm touchstones, 2 old fried pre & pre2, and 2 phone backs for the touchstone charger to integrate with the phone..
I would absolutely love to know how to integrate the "guts" of the battery cover with the needed parts into the e4gt innards to make the wireless charger .. but I'm not sure how yet.. :/ I will keep reading and post here if I get it working..
I assume that the physical connection is totally possible but the OS will most likely need to be able to control voltage and jazz so I'm not sure what would be needed for that part..
sj
Sent from my E4GT on AoKPm5 FF02 OS4.0.4 w/ dpi @ 128 with [email protected] 2.1.1 Pro

Thanks for all the interest and offers for assistance. Being that its my friend's birthday as well as my own on top of fathers day weekend I won't start any design research until Monday.
I have ordered some parts which should be here late next week. I am still trying to find a source for some type B micro USB plugs. Guess I'll shoud stop throwing away those electronic component magazines. I did a quick search and found some but they were $6.50 each with $10 shipping. If any of you have a source for these let me know. Hell you can send me spare cables and I'll deconstruct them if I have to, but that's not very fun.
When I get on my PC I'll add a poll to see where you all would like this topic to be. Then I'll ask you how do I move it
Sent from my SPH-D710 on Rubix using XDA

Lets do it!
I actually got the touchstone and pre back and ripped out the inductive charging circuit just for this (I actually got it for my evo, but I upgraded before I had the chance to follow the evo guide). I'm excited for this!
Anyway - some heads up - the E4GT is MUCH heavier and bigger than the pre. Don't expect it to stay firmly attached. It will stay okay, but you need a really thin back face of the case. You may also try replacing the thin magnets with thicker rare earths. I actually got it under the stock cover okay, and that worked decently, but no good way to attach it. That's where I quit (after thinking about soldering to the board, but not having a good place on the USB connector without taking the phone all of the way apart. I also didn't fins another point on the board to solder to (like the charging circuit), although I'm sure it's there somewhere.
Also, you need to mount the inductive charging circuit a little low because the phone is so long that it will hit the table and not mount properly if you put it in the middle. Furthermore, be ware that if you add a connector to the USB port, this will exacerbate this problem, perhaps to the point of requiring landscape or stronger magnets.
The USB connector you want are available at a number of places. Ebay has some cheap micro usb adapters (including right angle) that you might play with. If you just want the connector itself, it will likely be more expensive, but I suggest checking mouser or digikey.
Good luck! This will be AWESOME!
---------- Post added at 12:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 AM ----------
Whoa! Just got curious enough to do a quick google search. You may want to czech these out real quick:
Soldering route: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1451684
again: http://forums.androidcentral.com/ep...c-4g-touch-stone-mod-details-lots-photos.html

DaisyPlucksta said:
I actually got the touchstone and pre back and ripped out the inductive charging circuit just for this (I actually got it for my evo, but I upgraded before I had the chance to follow the evo guide). I'm excited for this!
Anyway - some heads up - the E4GT is MUCH heavier and bigger than the pre. Don't expect it to stay firmly attached. It will stay okay, but you need a really thin back face of the case. You may also try replacing the thin magnets with thicker rare earths. I actually got it under the stock cover okay, and that worked decently, but no good way to attach it. That's where I quit (after thinking about soldering to the board, but not having a good place on the USB connector without taking the phone all of the way apart. I also didn't fins another point on the board to solder to (like the charging circuit), although I'm sure it's there somewhere.
Also, you need to mount the inductive charging circuit a little low because the phone is so long that it will hit the table and not mount properly if you put it in the middle. Furthermore, be ware that if you add a connector to the USB port, this will exacerbate this problem, perhaps to the point of requiring landscape or stronger magnets.
The USB connector you want are available at a number of places. Ebay has some cheap micro usb adapters (including right angle) that you might play with. If you just want the connector itself, it will likely be more expensive, but I suggest checking mouser or digikey.
Good luck! This will be AWESOME!
---------- Post added at 12:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 AM ----------
Whoa! Just got curious enough to do a quick google search. You may want to czech these out real quick:
Soldering route: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1451684
again: http://forums.androidcentral.com/ep...c-4g-touch-stone-mod-details-lots-photos.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome find DP! Looks extremely promising! I will see if I can get it working as soon as I have the time.. hopefully sometime this week
sj
Sent from my E4GT on AoKPm5 FF02 OS4.0.4 w/ dpi @ 128 with [email protected] 2.1.1 Pro

[Q] Issues with replacement screen

Hello, I recently purchased (from Asus) and installed a replacement LCD + digitizer on my N7. It went together easier than expected and I was happy with the results until I noticed that while multi-touching the screen it wigs out a bit. I cannot play Minecraft PE and move and look around at the same time for example. I cannot zoom in or out on pics without the picture jumping around like in a seizure like state for another example. Any ideas? I don't want to have to open it again but I will do what is necessary to fix this issue.
Thank you.

Asus don't sell parts to consumers so I don't know where you got it. Sounds like the part is faulty but check everything's connected properly and no damage to any of the flex ribbons.

DrFredPhD said:
Asus don't sell parts to consumers so I don't know where you got it. Sounds like the part is faulty but check everything's connected properly and no damage to any of the flex ribbons.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sold by Asus through Amazon. If I had enough posts to send the link I would but due to rules I cannot.

ElatedSacrifice said:
Sold by Asus through Amazon. If I had enough posts to send the link I would but due to rules I cannot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im not exactly saying your mistaken. I just question why asus would need to use amazon to sell parts? I have bought plenty of screens from amazon. One thing that is relatively certain, aftermarket parts. That doesn't mean bad in most cases just not oem. There is a touchscreen fix in either general or this Q&a. You may want to give that a try.

ElatedSacrifice said:
It went together easier than expected
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe it only looked like easy and something went wrong when assembling it by yourself.

I am willing to admit that I did something wrong I've got a friend who is more experienced at these things who is going to take a look. As far as the screen goes the seller was marked as Asus. Thanks for all the insight so far I looked up more dead spot issues with the N7 and it seems like I'm not the only one.

have you seen this? http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2535835 or this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2428133. hope you get it settled!

jblaze10 said:
have you seen this? http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2535835 or this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2428133. hope you get it settled!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! I will try this later today and hopefully it works.

after reading the article I am sure the ribbon cable connection is my issue but does anyone think thermal paste would be a decent adhesive for the cable connection?

ElatedSacrifice said:
after reading the article I am sure the ribbon cable connection is my issue but does anyone think thermal paste would be a decent adhesive for the cable connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How does thermal paste make an adhesive? And why do you need that for a cable connection? A thermal paste transfers heat from one surface to another. A cable connection generates no heat. Also, some thermal pastes conduct current. If you smear an amount of such stuff on the connector, you might cause the pins to short. 'm confused.

graphdarnell said:
How does thermal paste make an adhesive? And why do you need that for a cable connection? A thermal paste transfers heat from one surface to another. A cable connection generates no heat. Also, some thermal pastes conduct current. If you smear an amount of such stuff on the connector, you might cause the pins to short. 'm confused.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I'm Looking for is an adhesive for the ribbon cable connevtion . one of the articles above explains the dead spot issue I am having. Sorry for the dumb question I don't have a lot of experience working inside of things like this but I figured the tablet was trash if I couldn't fix it anyways so I might as well give it shot for the experience.

Modifying Parts

Deleted, lack of help, already achieved.

General though I forgot to add if that project could be real, it would teach Samsung and att a great lesson and someone would sell these parts and make money out of them.

Sounds like it's more trouble than it's worth.

It's not like a car where you can unscrew a few screws and exchange the part for a new one. This device has thousands of microscopic soldered components, so unless you have very advanced technology, you are not going to replace core components.

I see something like this happening for laptops first.. and the reason they don't do it for them now (with very few exceptions) is because most everything is integrated into the mainboard.
Have you ever tried to solder an smd resistor onto a pcb with just your basic general use soldering iron? It's damn near impossible without putting too much heat on the resistor or soldering the pad next to it also.
Everything is so tiny and cramped in laptops, imagine how much more tight things get in a cell phone. There was one (or maybe a couple) mfgrs that are doing plug and play build a phone. Think hi tec Legos but in general. I gonna guess that the phone would have to be designed for this from the ground up.
Good thought.. but probably a few years ahead of its time.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using XDA Free mobile app

xlr8shun said:
I see something like this happening for laptops first.. and the reason they don't do it for them now (with very few exceptions) is because most everything is integrated into the mainboard.
Have you ever tried to solder an smd resistor onto a pcb with just your basic general use soldering iron? It's damn near impossible without putting too much heat on the resistor or soldering the pad next to it also.
Everything is so tiny and cramped in laptops, imagine how much more tight things get in a cell phone. There was one (or maybe a couple) mfgrs that are doing plug and play build a phone. Think hi tec Legos but in general. I gonna guess that the phone would have to be designed for this from the ground up.
Good thought.. but probably a few years ahead of its time.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your insight. I was asking because I have done a lot of reverse engineering and a little 3D printing. I have seen couple of project Ara videos and it doesn't seem impossible.
I have a note 3 that I use for testing. I will play around with it and some other components. If I had any luck to start with, it would be a mini step forward

At best what you might find is some internal only interface like jtag or something that you can modify what's loaded on the eeprom and spi flash. Really big if on that.

[Q] Am I totally bricked now???

So my FTV came in today (it was free from Giggle points... but still) - Of course, having been around Android for years and always rooting I had to look into it.
It seemed it didn't have new FW until my wife took iota upon herself to set it up and it received the newest update (Wife is an IT person as well - but not interested in hacking devices...)
So I figured, no problem - I'll use the emmc method - I ordered my adapter, but while I waited I thought I would solder up my pins, which is no issue - Soldering is easy.
All points are good, so I figured I would check it out to make sure it still powered up and booted - and low and behold, I'm stuck at the Amazon FireTV logo screen . (and the white led pulsates a bit...). The point where the resister is, I did decoder the entire resistor, so I soldered a wire on the other side and connected it to the other side. Still no luck...
Is there anything I should look at? All solder points are good .... No shorts or anything like that.....
** Edit ** I knew I needed a new solder tip - so now I think I have no more pad on the Resistor point closest to the chip - Usually the Resistors have another connection,. Does anyone know where it connects to as an alternate solder point?
Thanks for any ideas...

PensFan66 said:
So my FTV came in today (it was free from Giggle points... but still) - Of course, having been around Android for years and always rooting I had to look into it.
It seemed it didn't have new FW until my wife took iota upon herself to set it up and it received the newest update (Wife is an IT person as well - but not interested in hacking devices...)
So I figured, no problem - I'll use the emmc method - I ordered my adapter, but while I waited I thought I would solder up my pins, which is no issue - Soldering is easy.
All points are good, so I figured I would check it out to make sure it still powered up and booted - and low and behold, I'm stuck at the Amazon FireTV logo screen . (and the white led pulsates a bit...). The point where the resister is, I did decoder the entire resistor, so I soldered a wire on the other side and connected it to the other side. Still no luck...
Is there anything I should look at? All solder points are good .... No shorts or anything like that.....
** Edit ** I knew I needed a new solder tip - so now I think I have no more pad on the Resistor point closest to the chip - Usually the Resistors have another connection,. Does anyone know where it connects to as an alternate solder point?
Thanks for any ideas...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if i got you right, you accedently removed the pad from the PCB?. In that case it is a very importent question which one. As long as you the the firetv booting there is still a clock and and you probably just need to remove the wires you connected as they work as antennas and will confuse the signals on the busses.
If you rely lost the pad (and the firetv isn't booting at all, no blinky led no amazon logo on tv) and it depends which pad is gone. The one where the wiki tells you to solder the clock wire to or the closer to the cpu. Its unlikly that there is another pad between this one and the cpu. You may need to scratch VERY CAREFULLY some of the PCB top away to connect to the wire that lead to the lost pad.
Can you add a picture?

Thanks for the reply....
I toyed around with it last night a bit, and the boot lock must have been caused by that pad and the little connection I had - It would boot to that point but not anywhere past that. Like you said, if its not connected at all the FTV just sits there with no power.
So I can make a connection and currently my FTV works but I have put solder between the two pads. My concern is when IO get my eMMC reader, I need to remove that solder and if this is the last time I can do it (In case I lose what connection I have there) - I was hoping for a backup plan.
I thought about the trace on the PCB, but I don't see one from that Resistor - its odd, not on either side of the PCB - I wasn't sure, but doubted, it may have more than two layers?

I think I have it --- So around the same area there are 4 resistors, and I can see the traces for 3 of them, they go to a capacitor near the CPU. So I logically figured the same for the resistor I no longer have a pad for - In a meter, they theory is correct - so the resistors go to the Capacitor. If I need to, I should be able to go furthest solder pad for the resistor to the capacitor side... With any luck, I can avoid it - but I like a plan B....

PensFan66 said:
I think I have it --- So around the same area there are 4 resistors, and I can see the traces for 3 of them, they go to a capacitor near the CPU. So I logically figured the same for the resistor I no longer have a pad for - In a meter, they theory is correct - so the resistors go to the Capacitor. If I need to, I should be able to go furthest solder pad for the resistor to the capacitor side... With any luck, I can avoid it - but I like a plan B....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very goodm, you go for it i am rooting for you

PensFan66 said:
... it may have more than two layers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guarantee that it does.
I used to do layout and library support for a living. Now it's just the other way around. Anything with fine pitch BGAs (Ball Grid Arrays) is going to be multi-layer.
This thing has four: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Amazon+Fire+TV+Teardown/23856

iff10 - . Thanks ... With any luck I can avoid it, but if that pad becomes useless, I can't lose anything trying it to the capacitor direct ...
Wellers - Yep, that makes sense - I assumed it had to ... Always a cool design, but makes finding certain paths a little difficult ....