Deleted, lack of help, already achieved.
General though I forgot to add if that project could be real, it would teach Samsung and att a great lesson and someone would sell these parts and make money out of them.
Sounds like it's more trouble than it's worth.
It's not like a car where you can unscrew a few screws and exchange the part for a new one. This device has thousands of microscopic soldered components, so unless you have very advanced technology, you are not going to replace core components.
I see something like this happening for laptops first.. and the reason they don't do it for them now (with very few exceptions) is because most everything is integrated into the mainboard.
Have you ever tried to solder an smd resistor onto a pcb with just your basic general use soldering iron? It's damn near impossible without putting too much heat on the resistor or soldering the pad next to it also.
Everything is so tiny and cramped in laptops, imagine how much more tight things get in a cell phone. There was one (or maybe a couple) mfgrs that are doing plug and play build a phone. Think hi tec Legos but in general. I gonna guess that the phone would have to be designed for this from the ground up.
Good thought.. but probably a few years ahead of its time.
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xlr8shun said:
I see something like this happening for laptops first.. and the reason they don't do it for them now (with very few exceptions) is because most everything is integrated into the mainboard.
Have you ever tried to solder an smd resistor onto a pcb with just your basic general use soldering iron? It's damn near impossible without putting too much heat on the resistor or soldering the pad next to it also.
Everything is so tiny and cramped in laptops, imagine how much more tight things get in a cell phone. There was one (or maybe a couple) mfgrs that are doing plug and play build a phone. Think hi tec Legos but in general. I gonna guess that the phone would have to be designed for this from the ground up.
Good thought.. but probably a few years ahead of its time.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your insight. I was asking because I have done a lot of reverse engineering and a little 3D printing. I have seen couple of project Ara videos and it doesn't seem impossible.
I have a note 3 that I use for testing. I will play around with it and some other components. If I had any luck to start with, it would be a mini step forward
At best what you might find is some internal only interface like jtag or something that you can modify what's loaded on the eeprom and spi flash. Really big if on that.
Related
Well my brother used to have this excalibur and he was pretty rough with the fone.. now the usb port is kind of loose...like if i jiggle it out around in there i can get it to connect to the pc but id rather have it be tight..is there a way i can tighten it..maybe by adding more solder to the board? im experienced in soldering
Being that I haven't looked inside the dash, I'm not sure if that would solve anything. You could always try anchoring the connector on the board using some JB Weld, or some other type of epoxy. (I had to repair a wizard at one time, but I think I used some clear electrical grade RTV, it held up for the guy a few more months until the whole unit up and died!)
Oh that sucks, i had the same problem but lucky i just returned mine and got another on with the warranty.
I have done repairs on the usb ports before, usually the solder joint is cold and is easily repaired. If you do break the port they are available, I just ordered a few- they run about $2-3
I would not recommend it to anyone that hasnt used a fine tip iron to do this type of work though. You slip up and bridge a joint and you have some major problems!
yeah i think i will be able to pull that off...im not that bad at soldering and since a new one is only 2-3 bucks its worth a try
the ones I use are DigiKey #670-1809-1-ND
I changed the fascia on my arc yesterday, all seemed fine except... I damaged a component on the lower pcb(a cube about 3mm¤ on the board behind the buttons)and now the external speaker doesn't work. I've googled to try and find the part ID but can only find photos of the board, no schematics, or a list of chips, but it's not a chip. Does anyone know if it can be repaired or if the pcb can be bought anywhere? I'm going to buy a new phone in June/July, and I can just about live with vibrate only, but any advice would be helpful. Thanks.
sinkster©
Hi Sinclair, can you post a photo of the damaged component(S) I have a large stock of SMC and can help you with the repair.
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I'll do that shortly, thanks ;-)
sinkster©
I've uploaded a .png file but doesn't seem to be showing... I'll check and if necessary do it again It's showing on the pc so you should see the f*cker...
I found the image on a U.S. website, the full board is $12.99(no p&p quoted)but I'm reluctant to order anything from an online source that asks if I'm a new constomer...
sinkster said:
I found the image on a U.S. website, the full board is $12.99(no p&p quoted)but I'm reluctant to order anything from an online source that asks if I'm a new constomer...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll check tomorrow and post, I'm out tonight.
Sent from my LT15i using XDA Premium App
sinkster said:
I found the image on a U.S. website, the full board is $12.99(no p&p quoted)but I'm reluctant to order anything from an online source that asks if I'm a new constomer...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I could not see on my phone last night, I have tried to zoom in, cant read the component details can you read them at your end? the IC will be the Audio amp and I think the two ringed components are resisters and the two gold pads on the PCB are speaker connections, can you confirm Sinclair and note anything on the two ringed components.
EDIT: Is it the board that's damaged or the component knocked off, if so, do you still have the component?
Also if they are resistors markings will either be formatted '103' or 'R068'.
The component was halved in two. Half is on the board, the other half is not... I'll open it up in an hour or so, once I've got rid of the hangover
sinkster©
sinkster said:
The component was halved in two. Half is on the board, the other half is not... I'll open it up in an hour or so, once I've got rid of the hangover
sinkster©
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Get the expresso down your throat, and some toast, then get your T6 screw driver out
Can you solder Sinclair?
Done it a few times before, I can get an iron and solder from someone. Need to take it apart anyway, think I've put the shielding on incorrectly as my WiFi only works within 6ft of the router...
sinkster©
sinkster said:
Done it a few times before, I can get an iron and solder from someone. Need to take it apart anyway, think I've put the shielding on incorrectly as my WiFi only works within 6ft of the router...
sinkster©
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will be WiFi antenna not connected.
Sent from my LT15i using XDA Premium App
I can't get a decent picture, the macro lens on my camera is only good for 100 cm so it's worse than the one I posted. Tried google, there are a few sellers on ebay/alibaba but they don't break down to individual components, only the board itself. On the board there's only the pcb identifiers but no individual tags, but it seems to be some kind of amplifier as it's part of the general audio path and the last component before it goes to the speaker. I've attached a zoom of the original but it's not any better resolution. Thanks for your help, btw, but don't trouble yourself too much. Might buy a board, plus when I searched Ebay there were a few Arc S's going for attractive prices. Or might just go for the Xperia S if my coupon comes up
ps yeah, wifi antenna wasn't snapped in properly
sinkster said:
I can't get a decent picture, the macro lens on my camera is only good for 100 cm so it's worse than the one I posted. Tried google, there are a few sellers on ebay/alibaba but they don't break down to individual components, only the board itself. On the board there's only the pcb identifiers but no individual tags, but it seems to be some kind of amplifier as it's part of the general audio path and the last component before it goes to the speaker. I've attached a zoom of the original but it's not any better resolution. Thanks for your help, btw, but don't trouble yourself too much. Might buy a board, plus when I searched Ebay there were a few Arc S's going for attractive prices. Or might just go for the Xperia S if my coupon comes up
ps yeah, wifi antenna wasn't snapped in properly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As its a balanced output, you can short out the broken resister with a single strand of wire you will get a reasonable output (not perfect) you will have to scrape off the solder resist paint (green) from the side where the broken resistor(unless you can still get on the pad) and solder the wire from there to the good side of the resistor.
Ps can you read the number on the good resistor?
Thanks, wasn't sure if I could bypass anything but I'll get some wire & an iron and give it a shot. I'll let you know how I get on, probably tomorrow pm as it'll involve another trip to the pub...
sinkster©
sinkster said:
Thanks, wasn't sure if I could bypass anything but I'll get some wire & an iron and give it a shot. I'll let you know how I get on, probably tomorrow pm as it'll involve another trip to the pub...
sinkster©
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahaha just going to the pub to see the bears getting done over by Killy.
PS. Have one for me, looking forward to a good result with your soldering skills.
Sent from my LT15i using XDA Premium App
If killie beat the bears and Celtic beat hibs it'll be Monday before I can even spell solder...
sinkster©
sinkster said:
If killie beat the bears and Celtic beat hibs it'll be Monday before I can even spell solder...
sinkster©
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For flux sake
Sent from my LT15i using XDA Premium App
EBay item no. 270876167215. £14.99 p&p free, its your PCB from Berwick.
26 days to go.
The link (I hope) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sony-Ericsson-ARC-X12-LT15i-Keypad-PCB-Membrane-Keyboard-Flex-Cable-Mic-Part-UK-/270876167215?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item3f117a4c2f
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Found it, thanks. Upon trying to obtain a suitable iron, nobody has one fine enough for this kind of work so I'll go for the board. And, tbh, I'd probably solder the flux to my finger anyway. So I'll continue celebrating Rangers misfortune... Sorry you never got 3 pts yourselves.
sinkster©
Watched Uniteds match on Alba, didn't deserve 3 pts, lets hear how you get on with the board on g+, win against Hibs 17 pts clear,they should have had the 10 pt deduction at the start of next season, as they went into voluntary liquidation when it suited them (they wouldn't have done it if they were 5pts clear of Celtic at the time).
Sent from my LT15i using xda premium
This has already been done for the EVO 4g using Palm Touchstone capable scraps but I want to take it to another level. Since i'm not much of a programmer I can add to the community in this way.
Please let me know how many of you are interested in this. I'm going to put up full walk throughs as I move along but I will also sell some off (in the marketplace) for those that don't want to go through the hassle. I'm going to start ordering parts and building mock-ups and doing some design work during slow downs at work. I'll have a donation link up eventually if any one wants to help cover the initial costs.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
CURRENT DEVELOPMENT STAGE: 1- INDUCTIVE CASE RESEARCH, see #1
PLEASE KEEP AN EYE ON THIS POST (general updates) AND POST#3 (useful links and eventually tutorial)
:good:KEEP DISCUSSION AROUND THE FOLLOWING DESIGN INTENTIONS/ ABOVE DEVELOPMENT STAGE:good:
Design Intents are as follows:
1) A case for housing the inductive coil/wiring
This just requires compatible cases with necessary clearance for the inductive coil and wiring to the male micro usb. Cases with oversized bumpers would be best since they will keep drops from damaging the micro usb plug that will be sticking out of the bottom of the phone. This may not be ideal so if anyone is decent and making plastic molds maybe we could come up with an attachment to a case.
2)NO Hard wiring inside/to the phone
This involves using low profile male mirco USB type B connectors, like this, and mounting and wiring to the case. This will keep your plug always covered and keep you from trying to charge your phone with both inductive and regular usb to the wall/pc. The main design issue here is protecting the male connector to the phone. Suggest usb connectors, wiring, how to boost the amperage, does the palm pre coil protect from over voltage, etc.
3)A car kit.
I will start with my car, A nissan sentra SR, for the car kit. Others are encouraged to come up/share your solutions as well! This should be a hard wired solution using the palm pre/pixi round touchstone dock. Kind of like a dash mount. I think the magnet should hold the phone ok being that my car isn't one of the most powerful things on the planet but for you hot rodders out there keep that possible issue in mind.
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Current Progress: CASEAlright I have the cases in hand! I got three of them in the mail and will be tearing these apart this weekend. The pucks (touchstone bases) should be here sometime next week.
I'm also looking at the following cases
Ballistic
Ballistic 2
Clear S Case
The ballistic I am hoping will give clearance for the micro usb. They will be a bit heavier though... we'll see.
I going to order 2 cases for starters, what should they be?
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**ANY ORIGINAL IDEA/METHOD/MODIFICATION DISCUSSED IN THE THREAD IS THE SOLE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY OF THE CONTRIBUTOR AND IS NOT OPEN FOR COMMERCIALIZATION WITH OUT THE DIRECT CONSENT OF THE ORIGINAL CONTRIBUTOR- In other words... don't rip off your buddies ideas and give credit where due**
Wrong thread
Useful Links and Resources
Useful Links and Resources
This post will provide you with the knowledge necessary to learn what you need to complete this project. Any helpful links your share in this thread will be copied here.
General Info
What is Electromagnetic Induction? - HERE
A little about wireless power distribution - HERE
Other Mod References
ManiacMagic's E4GT Soldered Inductive Mod - HERE
darrenf's from android central Soldered - HERE
(thanks DaisyPlucksta for the links)
Helpful Videos
qianqinde's how-to for International GS2 (soldered) - HERE thank's rwilco12
Regarding the thread, this would be hardware development which i believe belongs in the general section. As for the idea, it seems like as long as its not too bulky most users wouldn't mind if it extended battery life substantially like 24 hours or more. Could make you rich with over 9.million sgsIII owners. But Im pretty sure there are already many types of chargers on the market so unless i missed something perhaps you should submit this to a patent office so no one steals the idea or design. Just my two cents dinner no one else has posted. But ya not software development so I would move three thread before you get flamed too bad.
No flaming allowed.
Sent from my "I didn't text you last night… Jack Daniels texted you" using xda premium
Maybe in accessories? Good luck. Sound fun. I might be interested once your done.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
abw0046 said:
This has already been done for the EVO 4g using Palm Touchstone capable scraps but I want to take it to another level. Since i'm not much of a programmer I can add to the community in this way.
Design Intents are as follows:
1) A case based solution, the ET4G is too damn thin!
This is just require compatible cases with necessary clearance and materials
that are least obstructive to the magnetic field.
2)NO Hard wiring inside/to the phone
This involves ordering male mirco USB type B connectors and mounting and wiring to the case. This will keep your plug always covered and keep you from trying to charge your phone with both inductive and regular usb to the wall/pc. The only issue here is protecting the male connector to the phone. I've some ideas for this but will be very dependent on the case we use.
3)A car kit.
I will start with my car, A nissan sentra SR, for the car kit. This will be a hard wired solution using the palm pre/pixi round touchstone dock. Kind of like a dash mount. I think the magnet should hold the phone ok being that my car isn't one of the most powerful things on the planet but for you hot rodders I'll keep that possible issue in mind.
Please let me know how many of you are interested in this. I'm going to put up full walk throughs as I move along but I will also sell some off for those that don't want to go through the hassle (is that ok on here? or do i need to set up donations?). Either way let me know because I'm going to start order parts and doing some design work during slow downs at work.
Thoughts? Concerns?
Oh and if you have other devices you would like this type of solution for I'm cool with that. Just ask and we'll work through it!
OH man... here we go!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm game! I tried doing it myself but I could only find the one spot on the USB plug to hook up to. I opted but to do it because there was some massive dismantling and soldering I would've had to do. I've still got the parts ready for when someone smarter than me figures out an easier way to do it though!
playingbball20 said:
Wrong thread
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Technically, he is developing something. Just not code.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
great idea. i have 4 touchstones kicking around. would love to be able to use them.
Technically, this IS "development"
Anyway, I would be interested in this myself. Seems like a great idea. I'm pretty handy & I have a welder/soldering station at my job. Would be happy to help out.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
I would pay money for this...
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This sounds very cool. And technically this is development. Just not software related. So I don't see where else this could go.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
abw0046 said:
This has already been done for the EVO 4g using Palm Touchstone capable scraps but I want to take it to another level. Since i'm not much of a programmer I can add to the community in this way.
.......
Please let me know how many of you are interested in this. I'm going to put up full walk throughs as I move along but I will also sell some off for those that don't want to go through the hassle (is that ok on here? or do i need to set up donations?). Either way let me know because I'm going to start order parts and doing some design work during slow downs at work.
Thoughts? Concerns?
Oh and if you have other devices you would like this type of solution for I'm cool with that. Just ask and we'll work through it!
OH man... here we go!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a thought.
What would be the charging time using touchstone/conductive charging; or in other words, what would be the output voltage/current provided to the phone. It takes a while on regular chargers to charge the phone compared to HTC phones.
haha I actually did this too my I500. Literally car kit and everything. Even had it play music through Bluetooth. except I hated cases on that phone so I hardwired it. looked so much sexier. But the case is easier. Built like that too just didn't have the car cradle
sent from aokp tablet sgs2
lickarock said:
Technically, he is developing something. Just not code.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True
How much would this be for a car charger and home charger wireless
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I have 2 palm touchstones, 2 old fried pre & pre2, and 2 phone backs for the touchstone charger to integrate with the phone..
I would absolutely love to know how to integrate the "guts" of the battery cover with the needed parts into the e4gt innards to make the wireless charger .. but I'm not sure how yet.. :/ I will keep reading and post here if I get it working..
I assume that the physical connection is totally possible but the OS will most likely need to be able to control voltage and jazz so I'm not sure what would be needed for that part..
sj
Sent from my E4GT on AoKPm5 FF02 OS4.0.4 w/ dpi @ 128 with [email protected] 2.1.1 Pro
Thanks for all the interest and offers for assistance. Being that its my friend's birthday as well as my own on top of fathers day weekend I won't start any design research until Monday.
I have ordered some parts which should be here late next week. I am still trying to find a source for some type B micro USB plugs. Guess I'll shoud stop throwing away those electronic component magazines. I did a quick search and found some but they were $6.50 each with $10 shipping. If any of you have a source for these let me know. Hell you can send me spare cables and I'll deconstruct them if I have to, but that's not very fun.
When I get on my PC I'll add a poll to see where you all would like this topic to be. Then I'll ask you how do I move it
Sent from my SPH-D710 on Rubix using XDA
Lets do it!
I actually got the touchstone and pre back and ripped out the inductive charging circuit just for this (I actually got it for my evo, but I upgraded before I had the chance to follow the evo guide). I'm excited for this!
Anyway - some heads up - the E4GT is MUCH heavier and bigger than the pre. Don't expect it to stay firmly attached. It will stay okay, but you need a really thin back face of the case. You may also try replacing the thin magnets with thicker rare earths. I actually got it under the stock cover okay, and that worked decently, but no good way to attach it. That's where I quit (after thinking about soldering to the board, but not having a good place on the USB connector without taking the phone all of the way apart. I also didn't fins another point on the board to solder to (like the charging circuit), although I'm sure it's there somewhere.
Also, you need to mount the inductive charging circuit a little low because the phone is so long that it will hit the table and not mount properly if you put it in the middle. Furthermore, be ware that if you add a connector to the USB port, this will exacerbate this problem, perhaps to the point of requiring landscape or stronger magnets.
The USB connector you want are available at a number of places. Ebay has some cheap micro usb adapters (including right angle) that you might play with. If you just want the connector itself, it will likely be more expensive, but I suggest checking mouser or digikey.
Good luck! This will be AWESOME!
---------- Post added at 12:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 AM ----------
Whoa! Just got curious enough to do a quick google search. You may want to czech these out real quick:
Soldering route: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1451684
again: http://forums.androidcentral.com/ep...c-4g-touch-stone-mod-details-lots-photos.html
DaisyPlucksta said:
I actually got the touchstone and pre back and ripped out the inductive charging circuit just for this (I actually got it for my evo, but I upgraded before I had the chance to follow the evo guide). I'm excited for this!
Anyway - some heads up - the E4GT is MUCH heavier and bigger than the pre. Don't expect it to stay firmly attached. It will stay okay, but you need a really thin back face of the case. You may also try replacing the thin magnets with thicker rare earths. I actually got it under the stock cover okay, and that worked decently, but no good way to attach it. That's where I quit (after thinking about soldering to the board, but not having a good place on the USB connector without taking the phone all of the way apart. I also didn't fins another point on the board to solder to (like the charging circuit), although I'm sure it's there somewhere.
Also, you need to mount the inductive charging circuit a little low because the phone is so long that it will hit the table and not mount properly if you put it in the middle. Furthermore, be ware that if you add a connector to the USB port, this will exacerbate this problem, perhaps to the point of requiring landscape or stronger magnets.
The USB connector you want are available at a number of places. Ebay has some cheap micro usb adapters (including right angle) that you might play with. If you just want the connector itself, it will likely be more expensive, but I suggest checking mouser or digikey.
Good luck! This will be AWESOME!
---------- Post added at 12:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 AM ----------
Whoa! Just got curious enough to do a quick google search. You may want to czech these out real quick:
Soldering route: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1451684
again: http://forums.androidcentral.com/ep...c-4g-touch-stone-mod-details-lots-photos.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome find DP! Looks extremely promising! I will see if I can get it working as soon as I have the time.. hopefully sometime this week
sj
Sent from my E4GT on AoKPm5 FF02 OS4.0.4 w/ dpi @ 128 with [email protected] 2.1.1 Pro
This may be a odd question, but i broke the little plug for the cooling fan (which sucked anyway) off my ouya console. everything still works fine on it, but i was wondering where the best spot or if its possible to solder LEDS/12V fans/ETC right to the ouya board. i saw in a case mod video (the crazy cool metal case one episode 3 i think) where the video shows him soldering red leds straight to the console. if someone has a tutorial or something on how to do this that'd be awesome. Only other question i guess i have is do i really need a fan, seeing as the tegras are in tablets that have no real ventilation or fans. thanks for any help
xxsnuggl3sxx said:
This may be a odd question, but i broke the little plug for the cooling fan (which sucked anyway) off my ouya console. everything still works fine on it, but i was wondering where the best spot or if its possible to solder LEDS/12V fans/ETC right to the ouya board. i saw in a case mod video (the crazy cool metal case one episode 3 i think) where the video shows him soldering red leds straight to the console. if someone has a tutorial or something on how to do this that'd be awesome. Only other question i guess i have is do i really need a fan, seeing as the tegras are in tablets that have no real ventilation or fans. thanks for any help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should be able to solder the original fan wires directly to the mainboard (or extend them then solder) - just be sure you practice first so as not to break your OUYA and be sure to get the polarity correct (i.e. the red lead is positive and black negative). The fan socket is only one way, so its pretty hard to miss which way it goes in. Failing all else, you can use a multimeter with continutiy checking to check and see which of the fan connector pins is ground (negative) by putting one probe on one of the pins and one on the shielding for the network port - if it the multimeter shows a connection between the two - you've found the negative pole for the fan..the other will obviously be positive.
Depending on the fan, mixing up the input and output of the fan could either screw something up, make no difference, or make the fan run backwards.
As you may have guessed after replacing the LCD, I have the dreaded back light issue.
My new lcd works, minus the backlight..though it flickers sometimes.
Found out it may be one of three the possible problems, popular being the 220 coil.
Now, I'm ok at basic soldering, but this is smd stuff, to delicate and small, plus I don't have that level of equipment.
I firstly need someone who has an abundance of mobile phone parts to hack a working 220 coil, eg. old iphone
secondly, I need someone in the west midlands, uk who can solder the coil for me. (prefebly the same guy with part)
There's a pint or 2 in it for ya
or somewhere I can go to get the repair done, reliable and cost effective.
Thanks
Harj
no one? lol
oh well, can't believe no one can help..lol