I have purchased a NETGEAR PTV3000 (Push2TV) device.
Device: NETGEAR Push2TV
Firmware: v2.4.26
WiFi: 2.4 & 5GHz 300Mbps 802.11
Standards: Miracast Certified
Device: XPERIA M
Phone Model: C1905
Firmware: 15.1.C.2.8 (Android 4.1.2), 15.4.A.0.23 (Android 4.3)
NETGEAR PTV3000 provides miracast(wireless) connection to an HDMI audio/video device.
The PTV3000 consists of an HDMI port and a mini-USB power port.
There is a reset button and a Push2TV side button.
One can connect to the PTV3000 for firmware upgrades, but there is no further configuration (that I know of) beyond that.
I used the following test output devices:
• Sony Bravia HDTV with PTV3000 connected via a 4 port HDMI switch (Limited HDMI ports available on TV)
• Dell 24" Full-HD IPS monitor using a HDMI port
An XPERIA M (C1905) can pair and connect to the PTV3000 easily from the Settings -> Xperia menu
There is some lag when streaming 576i TV to a Full-HD IPS monitor, but still very watchable.
To be fair, the WiFi is doing 'double' the workload in this setup.
• Stream 576i TV to the phone via 5GHz 150Mbps WiFi.
• Output audio/video to the Full-HD Monitor, again via WiFi.
Audio is passed via Miracast and is only heard at the end HDMI display device.
Any display/audio settings are changed/managed on the XPERIA M.
Streaming a video or viewing a picture is very acceptable, but the Android UI can look a bit ragged due to the resizing of the 480x854 screen.
One VERY good thing about this whole setup is that I was able to connect to the Internet via WiFi(5GHz in my case) while at the same time having video/audio steamed to the output display.
I was able to add a USB Logitech Unifying adapter which supports a Keyboard and mouse.
This effectively gave me a mini PC setup with monitor,keyboard and mouse.
Using a Bluetooth mouse/keyboard would also allow a USB power adapter to be connected.
Watch out for excessive heat if power is connected while using Miracast as the phone will get very hot..
Overall I'm very happy with the display on the output monitor and the general functionality.
Wifi direct 5ghz?
Does anybody knows if i use wi fi direct with 5ghz , intead of 2.4 ghz, could it reduce the lag while playing fast games like need for speed?
I have a MOTO X, so the only way to see the phine screen on tv is wifi direct or miracast
fernandogtg said:
Does anybody knows if i use wi fi direct with 5ghz , intead of 2.4 ghz, could it reduce the lag while playing fast games like need for speed?
I have a MOTO X, so the only way to see the phine screen on tv is wifi direct or miracast
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Yes that's correct.
5GHz in close proximity 3-5m with no walls in the way, will give you a connection speed of 150Mbits on a 40MHz channel and real data throughput up to 109Mbits on an XPERIA M(C1905)
Mostly I observe a real data speed of ~90Mbits
5GHz uses a 40MHz channel width to achieve higher speeds.
2.4GHz only uses a 20MHz channel width and has a maximum connection speed of 72Mbits and a real data throughput of approx. 35Mbits using an XPERIA M(C1905)
So in summary
5GHz is faster at closer ranges.
2.4GHz gives you greater connection distances, but lower data throughput at closer distances.
That said, you have to consider the display is only working within the limits of the Miracast/WiFi-Direct implementation of the TV/device you're connecting to.
So even on 5GHz the WiFi-Direct implementation could be considerably gimp'd.
Many Miracast/WiFi-Direct implementations only support 2.4GHz (TVs etc..)
The Netgear PTV3000 struggles to provide 720p visuals to a TV/Monitor.
I don't see this as optimal in a fast response environment like gaming.
Related
Hi all,
I have a Plasma tv Samsung PS50B850, with its wifi USB key. I'd like to stream my 720p video taken with SGS via DLNA to the 50' tv. Actually I can do it only through a wifi router. The problem is that the router doesn't support wifi/n but only b/g and the result is not good: video are not smooth and they keep on stopping/playing.
It would be better to connect SGS to tv wifi key directly, in order to use wifi n type connection, but I wasn't able to see the tv network on my SGS. I also tried with an ad hoc connection, but no way.
Is there someone with the same equipment that can help me?
Thx so much!
Just to report that dlna is a lot bette with Eclair. I just tested it with JM5 and even if I am with 108 Mbps LAN and g class for wifi (no n class), HD video are played smoothly, without skipping.
Hi, i was just wondering what kind of wifi speeds you guys have with your g pads?
I am trying to stream HD movies with a xbmc / yatse combination however the tablet keeps buffering.
If i have the tablet 1m from my router it cannot auto negotiate to more than 72mbit and if i do a test with jPerf on a computer en iPerf from markedet i cannot get more than 15 Mbit/s @ 1m and excelent signal (-20/-30dB)
If i use a dlink n port USB dongle from a laptop it gets 150Mbit/s
I have tested with 3 different routers with the same resultall setup for speed with n only, wmm, best channel and so on)
*D-link DIR-665
*Zyxel 300mbit n somthing
*Linksys EA6900
I also tried a simple download from my NAS and speedtest.net to ensure iPerf was correct.
Has anyone one experienced the same problem on CM11 or other roms?
Thanks
My wifi on my tabpro 8.4 is fine until I connect my Bluetooth game controller to it.
It only affects the 2.4ghz part of the card though. i ran some tests and with the bluetooth controller turned off, my 2.4ghz wifi signal was perfect. As soon as i connected the controller, it seems to interfere and all the 2.4ghz wifi signals in my area disappear and reappear every 10 seconds.....as soon as i turn the pad off they all stay there indefinitely.
the pad does not affect 5ghz signal though.
i wonder if there is a fix for this or if it is just a hardware issue?
I know it is just this tab as when i run the same tests on my galaxy s5 there is not interference from the BT controller
Can anyone help me?
I just got a keyboard and mouse, bluetooth. They work awesome but they kill the WiFi on 2.4ghz. I don't have a 5ghz access point at home and none of the places I'd use it have 5ghz right now so it sucks. I'm guessing that no one responded because I don't think k it matters if you're on an ios, Android, or Windows system they both run on 2.4 and conflict and cause issues. Bummer.
Bluetooth runs on the 2.4Ghz frequency and does channel hopping (it's supposed to detect the in use frequencies though) if the game controller is old (pre BT3) it might disable some functions that allow BT to Coexist with wifi on the 2Ghz band, I did a quick test with my BT music receiver (BT 4.0) and switched to my 2Ghz wifi AP I didn't notice any interference, I'll test my ps3 controller later when I get back home to see how that functions.
BTW I suggest keeping it on 5Ghz if you have an 802.11AC router since you can get a link rate up to 433Mbps , N networks only connect at 150Mbps with this tablet .
otyg said:
Bluetooth runs on the 2.4Ghz frequency and does channel hopping (it's supposed to detect the in use frequencies though) if the game controller is old (pre BT3) it might disable some functions that allow BT to Coexist with wifi on the 2Ghz band, I did a quick test with my BT music receiver (BT 4.0) and switched to my 2Ghz wifi AP I didn't notice any interference, I'll test my ps3 controller later when I get back home to see how that functions.
BTW I suggest keeping it on 5Ghz if you have an 802.11AC router since you can get a link rate up to 433Mbps , N networks only connect at 150Mbps with this tablet .
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He said he doesnt have 5ghz mate
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I wonder if anyone can advise how this problem might be fixed:
I have a fire-tv stick in my bedroom the latest version which has a voice remote and connects using WiFi direct instead of bluetooth. I'm using 2.4Ghz wifi (using a TalkTalk hg633 super router). I can't use 5Ghz because the signal to my bedroom isn't good enough on 5Ghz. On 2.4Ghz the link score from inSSIDer is 91 with the fire-tv stick unplugged, with a signal of -50dBm. With the fire-tv stick on a WiFi Direct AP appears on inSSIDer with a signal of -39dBm (ie stronger than my normal wifi signal). The link score drops to 71.
If I test download speeds and pings, then with WiFi direct off, i get decent downloads speeds (around 20Mbps) and 18ms pings in my bedroom, in the lounge its a little higher. With Wi-Fi direct on, download speeds drop below 7mbps, sometimes 1mbps, pings increase to 200ms (although I have seen 10,000ms) and the connection often disconnects so the download speed test or ping is unable to complete. (I get about 2 tests that work out of 6, the others fail due to connection issues).
The upshot of all this is that I can't get a reliable streaming service on my fire-tv stick. especially in the evening. The network often disconnects, or slows to a crawl so I get frequent buffering, inability to stream at all or a poor quality picture. In the lounge, I often find my PC disconnects when wifi direct is on though streaming is less of a problem (because there the wifi signal is about 5dBM greater than the WIfi-Direct signal
I contacted amazon, and they suggested changing the channel of my wifi so it isn't on the same channel a Wifi Direct. That doesn't work because the WiFi Direct signal follows my wifi onto the same channel.
I can't use a lan cable (no option for this on a fire-tv stick, and I shouldn't have to in any case). I don't want to add extra extenders / APs to my wifi network as that might just make things worse.
Does anyone know of any way to switch off WiFi direct and use bluetooth for the remote or the FireTV app on my phone instead? Or to decrease the power of the wifi direct signal, or any other solution?
I wonder about switching to an older fire-stick with bluetooth remote - but that I think would mean I lose the voice search facility?
If I swapped to a full Fire TV with voice remote - do they use bluetooth or Wifi Direct?
Same problem. Not as dire a situation because it's in my kid's bedroom and not mine. :silly: But it interferes with the WiFi signal in areas that are closer to her room than my home router.
Not sure why AMZ chose to use the same channel as the FireTV stick talks to your WiFi network on to do their communication to their remote. That seems like a really bad design - if it's messing the 2 of us up, it has to be doing the same for a whole lot of people.
I tried changing my home WiFi from channel 11 to 1 in troubleshooting and had the same experience as you - the FireTV stick's WiFi changed right along with it to continue to clobber my home WiFi signal. Been through the menus in FireTV stick - no way I can see to change its behavior. Google search led me here.
Hi,
Whilst I stand by everything I said, in attempting to get Amazon to replace my remote with one that used bluetooth instead of wifi-direct, they sent me exactly the same remote in replacement. It still uses wifi-direct. However, it has worked fine, despite being on the same channel. That suggests that some remotes are faulty and causing or exacerbating the problem. Exactly why that would be I don't know, but it's all working fine for me now.
Roku has been doing this for years Here is a link to there form maybe amazon will listen I just got a new one for another room but no network problems and is faster on menu loading so I can live with it.
You're always gonna have problems with a ton of stuff on 2.4ghz. If your router has 5ghz, I would recommend reorganizing if possible, or getting a stronger router. 5ghz means no headaches, no problems with other things, controllers\remote work fine, etc.
I've always thought that newer means better but it looks like with Wi-Fi it's not the case.
Here's my case: I have a Wi-Fi 802.11ax router which provides 2.4 and 5GHz networks.
2.4GHz wireless is configured this way: Mode AX, channel 11 (the least occupied here), bandwidth 40Mhz.
5.0GHz wireless is configured this way: Mode AX, channel auto (nothing in the vicinity), bandwidth 80Mhz.
Everything else is set by default.
What I've noticed that when my smartphones are connected to the absolutely free 5GHz network (no interference, zero competing 5GHz routers), all of them consume roughly 50-60mA more than when they are connected to a congested 2.4GHz (two more 2.4GHz Wi-Fi routers occupying the same channel).
How can you test it yourself? Start playing any Internet radio station (which means a steady very light Internet traffic). Open something like AccuBattery at Discharge Status -> Battery current. Do not touch the phone or do anything in the process - observation takes roughly half a minute. Switch between your 2.4/5GHz access points.
I'm now trying to find out how to keep my phones connected to 5GHz while reducing the Wi-Fi power consumption. The Wi-Fi standard allows to force clients to limit their transmit power. I don't see this option in OpenWRT settings unfortunately.
birdie said:
I've always thought that newer means better but it looks like with Wi-Fi it's not the case.
Here's my case: I have a Wi-Fi 802.11ax router which provides 2.4 and 5GHz networks.
2.5GHz wireless is configured this way: Mode AX, channel 11 (the least occupied here), bandwidth 40Mhz.
5.0GHz wireless is configured this way: Mode AX, channel auto (nothing in the vicinity), bandwidth 80Mhz.
Everything else is set by default.
What I've noticed that when my smartphones are connected to the absolutely free 5GHz network (no interference, zero competing 5GHz routers), all of them consume roughly 50-60mA more than when they are connected to a congested 2.5GHz (two more 2.5GHz Wi-Fi routers occupying the same channel).
How can you test it yourself? Start playing any Internet radio station (which means a steady very light Internet traffic). Open something like AccuBattery at Discharge Status -> Battery current. Do not touch the phone or do anything in the process - observation takes roughly half a minute. Switch between your 2.4/5GHz access points.
I'm now trying to find out how to keep my phones connected to 5GHz while reducing the Wi-Fi power consumption. The Wi-Fi standard allows to force clients to limit their transmit power. I don't see this option in OpenWRT settings unfortunately.
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This might help.
[SMALL FIX] Increase Wifi TX power ("signal strenght")
Hi, I noticed that our wifi driver can be controlled via iwconfig to increase TX power. It's not too impressive change (from default 14dbm to max 15dbm), but still it's a ~25% transmission power increase considering miliwatts (25mW->32mW) :)...
forum.xda-developers.com
What do you expect? 5GHz is using the twice the bandwidth. Of course it's going to consume more power. It's also more prone to attenuation at a shorter distance which increases the power needed to maintain the connection.