Develop Bugs

Black Aluminium Excalibur Case kills signal

Having heard about the screen cracking problems and just generally wanting to protect my new excalibur I searched the Net for a good case.
I found several online stores and ebay sellers carrying a Black Aluminum Case, i even found it on amazon and the reviews looked pretty good.
The case is pretty much identical to this one, maybe some of you have tried it.
I really like the way Case protects the screen and the phone in general while allowing access to all the keys, and it doesn't look half bad if a little bulky.
Unfortunately the belt clip fell apart after just 2 days use though thats not such a deal breaker but I have also just realized that the case decreases my signal strength, in some situations by 3 bars. That i cannot live with, it sort of ruins the point of having a hard accessible case if you have to keep on taking your phone out of it every time you want to make a call.
This is the most active Excalibur forum i have found (and stuff you guys develop is awesome) and i was just wondering if you guys could recommend a good affordable case. I have found a black plastic case and a lot of leather/cloth ones but after this bad experience i would like to see what you guys have to say first.
Thanks

Just use a rubber case, seems to do the job for me and they are fairly cheap on ebay.

For Fathers Day, I got a black/silver carbon fiber case... looks damn sexy with the black wallpaper on Kavanas ROM. No signal probs at all.

There are other options
Dude, I am dead serious about my phone looking sweet. I can tell you do too, hence the aluminum case. So, here's what you do, go back to ebay and get one of those antenna boosters. It's a freakin strip you put on your battery or something, it's toilet paper thin. It takes up no space. Try it. It might help, and then you wouldn't have to sacrifice the cool case. It's worth a shot.
Plus, unless you have extensively tested this theory. I doubt that your case is making your signal quality go down. Since the signal is transmitted so far away and makes it through so many metallic and non-metallic obstacles, yet your phone picks it up. Now, it does all of that, and you think that a 20th of an inch of aliminum is going to stop the signal. Maybe, but I would try something else before trashing the case. Just an opinion. Hope this helps.
RoachX said:
Having heard about the screen cracking problems and just generally wanting to protect my new excalibur I searched the Net for a good case.
I found several online stores and ebay sellers carrying a Black Aluminum Case, i even found it on amazon and the reviews looked pretty good.
The case is pretty much identical to this one, maybe some of you have tried it.
I really like the way Case protects the screen and the phone in general while allowing access to all the keys, and it doesn't look half bad if a little bulky.
Unfortunately the belt clip fell apart after just 2 days use though thats not such a deal breaker but I have also just realized that the case decreases my signal strength, in some situations by 3 bars. That i cannot live with, it sort of ruins the point of having a hard accessible case if you have to keep on taking your phone out of it every time you want to make a call.
This is the most active Excalibur forum i have found (and stuff you guys develop is awesome) and i was just wondering if you guys could recommend a good affordable case. I have found a black plastic case and a lot of leather/cloth ones but after this bad experience i would like to see what you guys have to say first.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

outerdepth said:
Since the signal is transmitted so far away and makes it through so many metallic and non-metallic obstacles, yet your phone picks it up. Now, it does all of that, and you think that a 20th of an inch of aliminum is going to stop the signal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exceptional point!

I have a black aluminum case as well... my signal is just fine...

outerdepth said:
Plus, unless you have extensively tested this theory. I doubt that your case is making your signal quality go down. Since the signal is transmitted so far away and makes it through so many metallic and non-metallic obstacles, yet your phone picks it up. Now, it does all of that, and you think that a 20th of an inch of aliminum is going to stop the signal. Maybe, but I would try something else before trashing the case. Just an opinion. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have tried it out in numerous situations, there are of course some situations where i get full bars with the case or with out but there are many (including my home) where with the case i will get 1 -2 bars and seconds after taking it out of the case the signal will go up by 2 or 3 bars. Put in the case, wait a couple of seconds and again the down to 1 - 2 bars. I didn't think a thin sheet of aluminium would effect the signal either, maybe its the lining or even the finish on the case.
Don't those signal boosters eat up the battery?

jacknmary said:
For Fathers Day, I got a black/silver carbon fiber case... looks damn sexy with the black wallpaper on Kavanas ROM. No signal probs at all.
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Click to collapse
You wouldn't happen to have any links to that product?

Im sorry...I bought it at the local mall. A phone accessory vendor had it. cost me 20, and I'd be happy to pick one up for you if you wanted to paypal the cash.
Ill post a pic soon...

jacknmary said:
Exceptional point!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes.. it sounds good! But, not a very educated point that's for sure... hehe

outerdepth said:
Dude, I am dead serious about my phone looking sweet. I can tell you do too, hence the aluminum case. So, here's what you do, go back to ebay and get one of those antenna boosters. It's a freakin strip you put on your battery or something, it's toilet paper thin. It takes up no space. Try it. It might help, and then you wouldn't have to sacrifice the cool case. It's worth a shot.
Plus, unless you have extensively tested this theory. I doubt that your case is making your signal quality go down. Since the signal is transmitted so far away and makes it through so many metallic and non-metallic obstacles, yet your phone picks it up. Now, it does all of that, and you think that a 20th of an inch of aliminum is going to stop the signal. Maybe, but I would try something else before trashing the case. Just an opinion. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery booster idea... yeah. Not happening. Unless you engineer a way to actually improve the phone's internal "antenna" with that sticker (because that's all it is), it's not going to improve anything, but maybe make your battery door wobble less.
The way cell phones transmit their signals is a little different... Our phones don't emit radiowaves with a lot of power. The receiving towers have very high gain amplifiers that amplify these incoming signal VERY much in order to make them usable, and send them out to our phones at a very high power. If our phones emitted with the same wattage, we'd probably have brain cancer in a month. That's why it's important to look at SAR values when shopping for a phone. Our Excaliburs aren't too bad in that category...
You'll notice that ALL mettalic phones have a plastic panel SOMEWHERE on the case. The Iphone for example... black plastic at the bottom. The LG Shine which is all stainless steel, has a plastic cap at the top. These areas is where the antenna "array" is mounted. Why ? Because a mettalic case around it will effectively BLOCK the signal. Our Excalibur's antenna is at the top of phone, so make that area is clear of metallic obstructions in order to get a good signal
Oh and a piece of 1/20 inch aluminum will definitely STOP the signal IF it covers the phone all the way around. It acts like a cage for it. This is why when you open up a phone, you'll see these metal panels over the various radio chips on the phone's motherboard. They're put there to block radio interferance. Now if his case has holes in it, that's where the signal gets in , to the antenna. If those "holes" arent strategically placed, it will make radio waves not reach the antenna at full power, thus making his signal bars drop...

hmmmm.... i use a metal case that completely covers my phone (top included) and i have absolutely no loss in signal strength.... There are currently two types of metal cases for the HTC Excalibur (excluding colors) with minor diffferences between the two:
this one: http://www.pdair.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=10100000_900000_11000048&products_id=5295#thumb , which the top is left open and the edging around the keys are weird (i've owned this one and it sucks cuz your phone has a tendency to slide around)
and this one: http://www.ids.hk/item_detail.asp?C...e&itemID=40D714A9-0AFE-473B-A1D7-6346E7A8AF39 , this is the one i own ( albeit not from that site ) the entire top is covered. and the edging around the keys is a lot better.
Specifically all these cases sell with tag names: Monaco Aluminum Case, Metal Case, Metal Deluxe Case. and Innopocket Metal Case.
The one titled Innopocket Metal Case is the one you're going to want to get. It fits the phone better. and is better constructed.

I have the exact case posted in the opening thread (Monaco with open top). The Dash can move around a little but I am comfortable with this because it helps with screen adjustment depending on your angle of use. I never use the belt clip. I just orient it a certain way and use the original Dash belt holder (extra protection). I like the cool feel of the aluminum vs. the rubbery feel of the Dash. Also unlike the Dash, the aluminum case has little feet to better release sound and help with cooling when lying flat.
In any case I get great signals with or without the case in my area. But I have a friend that has like two levels of screens and mesh on the windows and doors. Kind of like the stuff high tech companies put on the windows to prevent signal theft of computer processors and such. If I open the case inside my signal strength does increase. But I don't complain because many cant even get a signal inside. So I guess it's true that under some circumstances, even the open top aluminum case impedes signal strength.

outerdepth said:
... and you think that a 20th of an inch of aliminum is going to stop the signal. Maybe, but I would try something else before trashing the case. Just an opinion. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Guess you've never thought of how a coaxial cable works (Cable TV). The shield on that cable is much smaller than 1/20th in. and it seems to do a pretty good job of keeping foreign signals out.

jacknmary said:
For Fathers Day, I got a black/silver carbon fiber case... looks damn sexy with the black wallpaper on Kavanas ROM. No signal probs at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oh wow i had an exact case for my dash when i had it

pudgedaddy said:
hmmmm.... i use a metal case that completely covers my phone (top included) and i have absolutely no loss in signal strength.... There are currently two types of metal cases for the HTC Excalibur (excluding colors) with minor diffferences between the two:
this one: http://www.pdair.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=10100000_900000_11000048&products_id=5295#thumb , which the top is left open and the edging around the keys are weird (i've owned this one and it sucks cuz your phone has a tendency to slide around)
and this one: http://www.ids.hk/item_detail.asp?C...e&itemID=40D714A9-0AFE-473B-A1D7-6346E7A8AF39 , this is the one i own ( albeit not from that site ) the entire top is covered. and the edging around the keys is a lot better.
Specifically all these cases sell with tag names: Monaco Aluminum Case, Metal Case, Metal Deluxe Case. and Innopocket Metal Case.
The one titled Innopocket Metal Case is the one you're going to want to get. It fits the phone better. and is better constructed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The case i have is identical to your first link except the back of my case has less holes (top right of the back). I wonder if making some holes in the same area would help.
How do you find the belt clip for the case you bought? Is it hardy enough for regular use?
Thanks

RoachX said:
The case i have is identical to your first link except the back of my case has less holes (top right of the back). I wonder if making some holes in the same area would help.
How do you find the belt clip for the case you bought? Is it hardy enough for regular use?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did your case not come with a belt clip? Heck i'd give you 2 two i have if you were down the street from me. I don't use them. Not that i hate the reliability, but i'm very skiddish having "my baby" left out in the open to get lost. But if you're didnt come with one, chances are it would work with any variation. The back of both cases i posted have a screw hole in the miggle of the back of it that a metal nub screws into. Thats what lock onto the clip when its on your belt. Without that screw hole or metal nub, you're dead in the water

Oh it came with a clip, and said clip fell apart after a days use :-(. I'm looking at the version of the case you have the clip mechanism looks different.

I was just trying to help, so sorry if anyone feels mislead.
Well, it would seem that if I want to get a response out of someone, all I should do is say something slightly objectionable, MAN.
A simple no, I don't think that's how it works could have done the job. It's cool I have thick skin. LOL!
I do wanna add, though, that metals do not possess the exact same properties across the board. What I mean is, iron and aluminum are both metals, but aluminum is not magnetic because it is not a ferrous metal such as iron or one of its alloys, steel. I do want to add also, that I understand the radio chip concept and the metal cage placed around it to keep interference out. This does not mean that the chip cage is made of aluminum. I am not saying that it is, but I doubt it. Isn't aluminum used as an antenna for radios? Just saying, you think if it makes a good radio antenna or tv antenna, that it would make a good cellular radio antenna.
OrganicM said:
The battery booster idea... yeah. Not happening. Unless you engineer a way to actually improve the phone's internal "antenna" with that sticker (because that's all it is), it's not going to improve anything, but maybe make your battery door wobble less.
The way cell phones transmit their signals is a little different... Our phones don't emit radiowaves with a lot of power. The receiving towers have very high gain amplifiers that amplify these incoming signal VERY much in order to make them usable, and send them out to our phones at a very high power. If our phones emitted with the same wattage, we'd probably have brain cancer in a month. That's why it's important to look at SAR values when shopping for a phone. Our Excaliburs aren't too bad in that category...
You'll notice that ALL mettalic phones have a plastic panel SOMEWHERE on the case. The Iphone for example... black plastic at the bottom. The LG Shine which is all stainless steel, has a plastic cap at the top. These areas is where the antenna "array" is mounted. Why ? Because a mettalic case around it will effectively BLOCK the signal. Our Excalibur's antenna is at the top of phone, so make that area is clear of metallic obstructions in order to get a good signal
Oh and a piece of 1/20 inch aluminum will definitely STOP the signal IF it covers the phone all the way around. It acts like a cage for it. This is why when you open up a phone, you'll see these metal panels over the various radio chips on the phone's motherboard. They're put there to block radio interferance. Now if his case has holes in it, that's where the signal gets in , to the antenna. If those "holes" arent strategically placed, it will make radio waves not reach the antenna at full power, thus making his signal bars drop...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also, I wasn't expecting this kind of a reponse out of you, xticon, oops, xciton. Wow, very insightful. Could you please explain to me the purpose of this "shield" as far as the coaxial cable is concerned. I always thought it was there as a ground or to create a potential difference for the signal. Guess, I am wrong. Could and would you please clarify, since I appear to be retarded. Thanks, buddy!
xciton said:
Guess you've never thought of how a coaxial cable works (Cable TV). The shield on that cable is much smaller than 1/20th in. and it seems to do a pretty good job of keeping foreign signals out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Belt clips attached to the phone always break or come apart somehow. I'm with Pudgedaddy, I would never leave my baby dangling over the edge like that. LOL

Awesome folio case for under $25

Hey guys,
I've been prowling around these sectors ever since I got my Xoom, searching for the perfect case.
What I wanted:
The flexibility of the Zoogue case really appealed to me - I like the idea of being able to choose the angle of viewing. I also wanted any case to be able to be able to provide a setting for only a slight tilt when I wanted to type.
BUT the high price tag really put me off.
Also, I wanted it to be pretty thin. The Xoom is big enough without me adding to its bulk.
After much searching, I think I found the perfect one, so I thought I'd share my experiences (Here's the link where I bought it from: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-Fo...Accessories&hash=item3f0a05cb28#ht_3816wt_947)
Firstly, the price tag attached to this thing is ridiculously awesome. At first, I bought it thinking 'why not? it's less than $25!', but the product turned out to be even more awesome.
Firstly, it's really thin, but covers the tablet nicely. Secondly, to a certain extent, you can also choose what viewing angle you want, which is awesome. I say to a certain extent, because after a while, you run out of cover to stick the velcro on (have a look at the attached picture)
All the cutouts are there, but you can't charge with the case closed. I don't think this is a problem, because the cover folds back on itself nicely, so you can keep it open to charge. Which brings me to the next plus: it's designed so that it folds back on itself and it's actually pretty comfortable to hold in portrait mode (I've heard that this isn't the case with the official Moto one).
The only minor flaw I've found is that on mine, the top left corner is slightly higher than the top right - what this means is that the front-facing camera is covered ever so slightly by the strip of leather running under it. The picture I attached kind of exaggerates it a bit; it's not that bad. When I booted up the front-facing camera, there's just a line across the very bottom of the image. I'm not sure if this is on all their cases, so it might just be mine.
One more note: When I first heard about cases using velcro, I immediately wondered if the velcro would wear out over time, like in some of my bags. If you're also wondering that, then don't worry! This doesn't use the traditional velcro. You know how traditionally, the fuzzy part has all the loops and the the other part would like... 'hook' onto it and that's how it stuck? Well, this uses a different sort... one that looks like it won't wear out easily. Also, this case is pretty damn sturdy when you've got it propped up. I've tested this out extensively, and even when poking at the screen with a fair bit of force, it never topples.
Finally, before anyone asks: no, I'm not in any way affiliated with the seller, I'm just one super-happy customer. Even though it says it's free shipping, they still provided tracking for me. They even took a picture of the package before they sent it off and sent that to me, which was an eBay first. Plus, the person dealing with the emails just seems really nice, based on the correspondences I've had.
So pretty much, this case is amazing (for me, anyway). I don't think it's real leather, but for under $25, I wasn't expecting it. Plus, real leather is a ***** to take care of, anyway. Whether you need this case will probably come down to what you want out of a case, but this one has been pretty versatile for me (I've had it for about a month now).
EDIT: I didn't realise how much I wrote.... can you tell I'm procrastinating?
EDIT2: I forgot to add that there's even a magnet that holds the cover closed. It's not too strong but not too weak, either. Quite nifty, actually!

screen
is the screen filtered

wyllem said:
is the screen filtered
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Click to collapse
Nope, there's nothing on the screen area at all. That's my matte screen protector that I bought off eBay. It was the cheapest one I could find and it actually works quite well!

i got this one. will post pics and give feedback as soon as i got it.

Well, I really like it myself, so it'll be interesting to hear feedback from other people too.
And daaaang it, it's on sale now (I hate when things go on sale after I buy it!) Oh well, it was already cheap to begin with

The Andraxis Project! Official thread.

__NOTE:__
Project is more or less finished. If you want to get in contact with me, it would be best to PM me. Also, there is a .step file on page 12 if your 3d printer can't do meshes.
Hello everybody and welcome!
Info
The Andraxis project is 3d-printable mount/clamp/dock/holder thing that, when paired with the awesome Android Sixaxis controller tool, will allow you to turn your Android phone into a real mobile game platform.
The project can be bought from www.shapeways.com, I will be doing my best to keep its cost under $30 USD.
This project is going to be funded entirely by donations. That means on the Shapeways shop, I am not going to get a single penny of profit from each one sold. This ALSO means if I don't get any donations, I won't be able to improve on the design. The total cost for each revision I make for myself, living in Japan, is going to be $30 + $20 shipping. If you want to help me out, any amount of money will help. Just click on the "donate" button to the left, or send some money to my paypal account: [email protected]
What you will need:
Two standard 3mm screws. These are the same screws you can find in your PC case. One is to fasten the dock around the sixaxis controller, the other is used to lock the telescoping arm into position.
Some rubber tack or foam tape. Or if your cellphone has a silicone case, that might do just fine as well. Essentially, you need something that will give it extra traction to reduce the risk of slippage.
The Android Sixaxis controller tool, or some way for your phone to read the input from your sixaxis controller (can't Android 4.0 do that natively now?).
A sixaxis controller. If this project takes off, I might make different versions for other 3rd party controllers as long as they work on the software front. If you have a 3rd party controller you want to work with, give me its dimensions and as long as it doesn't require a drastic redesign I'll see what I can do.
Post-production:
The material used his highly porous and has a rough, gritty texture. The white, undyed material yellows somewhat when exposed to ultraviolet light (read: sunlight). Because of the porous and gritty texture, it also traps dirt and grime very easily. Pretty much, don't expect it to stay pristine and clean without any post-production methods. I hear varnish works well, but there's a whole section devoted to post-production at the Shapeways forum. I haven't experimented with the pre-dyed material yet, maybe it will fare better without any post-production.
Additionally, a number of the tighter interactions will need to be worked a few times to smooth them out. Examples being the locking clasp for the arm hinge and the sliding mechanism for the telescoping arm.
UPDT 11/8/2012
Looking at the competition (Gameclip, Icontrolpad 2), I would say my project is no longer "first there". So unless I come up with an awesome revision idea, there will probably be no more updates to the project.
As I originally planned from the start, along with the ending of this project, I will also be releasing the source so anybody who wishes to make their own modifications can do so themselves (or if they simply want to study it, though I'm terrible at notating stuff, sorry).
The file format is a .3dm file, this is a Rhino3d NURBS modeling filetype. If you can't use Rhino3d, you could still get the .stl file from the Shapeways website.
UPDT 5/23/2012
Due to a large number of pieces getting lost in the printing process, the project is now all one piece, with the arm boom attached to the main body by a small pip. A razor is required to get everything to fit together perfectly.
Just to clarify, Shapeways have been incredible with printing and sending replacements when they lose pieces, but it's inconvenient for everybody involved so I changed the design to minimize these complications.
Revision history:
Note: "Blind" means I haven't received that particular version yet, so I cannot comment on first-hand experience.
Revision 3
- Blind, but no major design changes so it should be fully functional.
URL: http://shpws.me/73sc
MODIFICATIONS:
- Connected the separate arm to the body by a small pip. If getting it clean is too time consuming or difficult, I could work with orientation; my initial intention is to make things easier on the Shapeways crew by making sure Andraxis doesn't take up much printer space when they're printing them.
- Added a little stand in the back. I pretty much eyeballed the dimensions so it's not guaranteed to work, but it should be fairly easy to remove if you have the right tools and it's not doing it's job and just annoying you.
- Shortened the bottom graspers. In my own experience having them extend over the face buttons sometimes meant they got in the way when playing games. Shouldn't be a problem any more, and with how sturdy the grippers are when given foam tape or a silicone case, I'm not worried about decreased gripping power.
Revision 2
- BLIND, though I didn't make any drastic changes to the design so it should work just fine.
- Shapeways link
REV. 2 DESIGN MODIFICATIONS:
- Added a screw hole to the side of the telescoping arm. This should allow it to be more pocketable, without having a big screw sticking out and making its pocket profile larger.
Revision 1 - Updated! 02/24/2012
- Received and fully functional!
- Shop url
REV. 1 OUTSTANDING ISSUES:
- The 2mm size correction from rev. 0 worked perfectly for the length of the project, but the thickness was not needed so now there is an extra 2mm of thickness. This can easily be corrected by foam tape or blue tack for now, doing so still makes it nice and tight. Will take 1mm off the thickness (going slowly to avoid having another non-working model).
- The 0.2mm correction for the sleeve was not enough. That or the dying process I experimented with trying out made the extending arm "swell" a bit. This is probably the biggest concern for rev.1 and is something you should consider if you don't want to wait for rev. 2. A good 30 minutes of sanding and "working" the telescoping mechanism should make it somewhat serviceable, but its still way too tight to expect it to work well for smaller phones. Will change it to a 0.5mm total correction.
- The support walls to the extended lower gripping prongs were mistakenly made a little thin. Its not a huge concern but since the prongs protrude out so much I want to make them as robust as possible. Will change from 1mm to 1.5mm. For those curious, the lower gripping prongs are now a total of 79mm wide. From my testing this has proven to be more than sufficient to hold the cellphone in place.
- The screw hole on the front clasp was made a little too deep. Its still perfectly serviceable (and able to hold it shut despite having two layers of foam tape padding the spaces between the controller and the project), but fixing this will make the clasp even more robust.
- The project information engraved on Rev. 1 is difficult to read. Will switch it to an emboss as what Rev. 0 was.
Other notes
- The screw holes are now a little tight. Unfortunately, a difference of 0.25mm is in the range of "random variance by the 3d printing process" so I don't think I would accomplish much by re-sizing it by 0.125mm. Its not a concern for the clasp screw hole because people aren't going to be unscrewing it all that often, but it might make the locking mechanism a bit of a pain to utilize. I'll keep it the size it is for now and observe if the screw hole gets easier to work with time.
Revision 0
- RECEIVED. Youtube video.
- Non-public.
REV. 0 OUTSTANDING ISSUES:
- The telescoping arm is too tight and its a real pain to insert into the sleeve. Added 0.2mm of clearance.
- The smaller screw hole is too small for any screws. On the other hand, the larger screw hole fits standard 3mm screws perfectly (they're the ones you would find on your PC case, for example). Removed the small screw hole, and resized the larger one by making it 0.25mm smaller to give it extra grip.
- The curves from the analog sticks are not high enough, and the face plate doesn't fit very well.
- Additionally, the hole for the Playstation button is too high. The face plate has been adjusted accordingly.
- The lower gripping prongs are too close-set and they don't extend out long enough. Adjusted from extending 6mm out, to 10mm. Widened the grip on each of the lower prongs from 10mm to 25mm.
- The clasp in the front is not needed. Replaced it with a screw hole.
- Despite having given extra space generously, the whole fit of the holder is way too tight around the controller. Added 2mm of clearance on all dimensions.
Other notes:
- The snap-in mechanism for the telescoping arm is a little stiff, but it works perfectly after its been worked a few times.
- The holder is designed to be used with rubber tack for extra traction (or a silicone phone case). The phone slipped out of the holster at the end of the video because I haven't gone to the store to get some tack just yet.
____
Disclaimer:
As you might expect, I take no responsibility if your cellphone drops out and cracks, or if the latest blind revision for some reason doesn't work (if you get missing parts, if the joint fuses, or if there are any other problems that are obviously the result of the printing technology, contact Shapeways and they should straighten things out). As long as I am able to, I intend to address any design issues that may come out, but especially in the early stages of this project you shouldn't expect a 100% working product.
BIG THANKS to:
xda user moviecut for sending a donation before I even had a working version to show!

Okay I'll post here from now, so far great.
Photo of rev1: http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/3389/andraxis.jpg
Will revise v101 this weekend.
When I get my hands on it, I'll test the "SIXAXIS App" on the NOTE with the Datel Turbo Fire 2.
If everything working fine, I'll take accurate* measurements of it for you and we'll PM.
If I'm satisfied with it, I will buy and post one of those to you to. Talk to you later

Okay Rev0 has been great, but it *needs* a design change.
Basically it needs a better way of latching the phone to the cradle [MAJOR], and a comfy fir of the cradle to the controller [MINOR].
#1) What I had in mind, after the plastic is made, the inner-sides of the cradle that make contact to the phone needs to be stickied with a "breathing foam" AKA SCOTCH TAPE!!
This can be had at any arts & craft stores, most newsagents and also at hardware (tool) stores. I usually see them in cheap Chinese stores and local retailers.
Scotch Tape:
http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00QBiaTJtEIhqo/Scoth-Tape.jpg
That increases grip to the device, adds more presure for snuggly fit.
#2) Securing the phone in to a "base".
The easiest way to do this is to have a backplate and a frontplate. The backplate we already have, and that is the adjustable arm.
The frontplate is easily accomplished by giving the base a 5mm frame towards the front of the device. This prevents it from falling forwards. This frame needs to be duplicated on the top side of the cradle (the adjustable arm).
Regular: http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/2761/sixaxis.png
Base: http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7282/sixaxis2.png
The reason for this is because the cradle needs a "base". What I mean by that, is that the phone needs to rest on this peice of plastic. So far the device's top and bottom movement are restricted.
#3) The biggest challenge is that all Android phones come with different thickness, so how thick does the base need to be ??
But I've been on a Google-rampage and found out all the sizes. Basically the thickest Android devices are ~11mm. But just to be sure we need to assume 12mm. For the base:
Naked phone = 12mm (tight/snugly fit depending on phone).
Naked phone + scotch tape (on both inner sides) = 12mm (very tight fit)
Naked phone + scotch tape (on both inner sides) = 14mm (snugly fit).
Silicon cased phone (no scotch) = 14mm
Silicon cased phone + scotch tape (on both inner sides) = 17mm (snugly fit).
Now the front and back movements are restricted too.
#4) Securing the phone further.
So the phone won't fall back, front, up or down....but it can still slide left and right.
Solution: place a rigid block on one-end to secure. It doesn't matter which of the two sides, as illustration I've put the right side. I've done this by adding the block to both the base (bottom) and the adjustable arm (top). Its basically 15mm of vertical plastic (that needs scotch tape). The device still *can* slip to one angle; but the position of the device, tightening of the arm and grip of the scotch tape will prevent that.
Rigid Block-er: http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/3097/sixaxis3.png
Why not both sides?
To prevent fragmentation, so that nearly all android phones/MIDs can slot inside this cradle.
#5) The Adjusting Arm.
Now that we know the general layout/features lets contemplate on one of the most (structurally) important aspects of the cradle, the adjusting arm.
The current rev0 does the job, but it does it poorly. We need it to be strong enough to last 12+ months of wear and tear and prevent phone falling.
I think a suitable means would be to have a " rail system " which you see on most Universal Phone Holders. Its basically two plastic bits slotting into each other like a zipper, examples:
Front: http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/939/adjarm1.jpg
Back: http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/4254/adjarm2.jpg
Neat: http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/6430/adjarm3.jpg
Since one arm (the base) is stable/unmoving, it basically means there is only ONE moving part. This means that piece can be made larger, thicker, and sturdier... meaning it will be even more DURABLE than those Universal Phone Holders.
#6) Finishing touches.
Now I've experimented with the SGS and the SGNOTE and the most ideal angle I found was ~ 45'
-So the base needs to holster the phone on a 45' angle against the controller, this allows your index fingers room for the R + L buttons but also points the display direct to you.
-And the " PS " button needs to be exposed so it can be pushed readily, but the " Pause " and " Start " buttons can be covered up.
-The plastic should wrap around the controller tightly but not choke it, so the dimensions need to accurated as best as possible (Note: most Sixaxis controllers will have same dimensions, very little variance)
-Varnish needs to be applied to keep the plastic strong, but a (better) alternative would be black paint as it will also make the plastic colour match the Sixaxis and most (black) phones.
As you can see, the Official PlayStation 3 Keyboard slots over the controller like the current method. However it fits much tighter/cleaner/superior to yours because it shapes around the contours. The rev2 needs to mimick this.
Snugly Wrap: http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/6828/sixaxis4.png

I design things on Paper + Pen, have no experience whatsoever with 3D Object Tools.
But I wanted to try, so here's draft 1 (first attempt) at Andraxis / PlayDroid:
-I don't have an accurate measuring apparatus, so things are as accurate as my ruler
Things missing:
-The joint arm at the front for the cradle to be screwed in
-The adjustable (rear) arm not created yet
-Proper implementation of things (group the holes to the box, group the base, and group the adjustable arm)
Problems:
-How to visualize/create the adjustable arm like those Universal Phone Holders
Anyways here's the link:
https://tinkercad.com/things/2pqYnbHJpFl
P.S. What did you design your build on, Tinkercad?
I think we should try to use the same 3D Tool, so that its easy for you to edit what I do and me to you....so that we can get the best + accurate structure!

Thanks for your continued interest.
As I mentioned in the first post, it is not designed to hold the phone "naked", either the phone needs to have a silicone case, or rubber tack needs to be applied. Foam tape looks like it could do the job as well, but I think rubber tack would offer much better traction and be much more flexible (rev. 1 has a groove in the telescoping arm where you could apply a bit of tack to add some grip to the back of the phone, for example).
As for ways of adding more grip, I feel eventually I will extend the bottom gripping prongs all the way across the controller, at least until it hits the triangle button (at its current state extending past that would partially cover it up). It will probably slowly evolve into that though as I need to make sure I observe the contours of the controller, and judging by how badly rev. 0 fits I can't rely on measurement alone.
I was thinking of adding a pair of horizontal telescoping arms as well. I think I could get it to fit without interfering with any of the core design mechanics.
The device's angle is set at 45 degrees. It feels right, though maybe a more obtuse angle would be preferable to some. Once I get a working model I'll think more on this.
One constraint I have to be constantly aware of is cost; the 3d printing service charges by volume, so adding too many features, or making the features too robust (like the Nokia example you posted) could easily bring the price to the $40-50 range.
With that said, the material is incredibly strong and wall thickness of 3mm is more than enough to withstand any kind of abuse. I broke off the bottom portion of the front clasp to get a better idea of what measurements need to be extended, and it actually took a few tries before it gave.
As for the PlayDroid, all I really need are measurements and I will adjust the fit of the Andraxis. The whole thing is modeled in Rhino3d, which is basically a NURBS modeling program that shares a lot of design concepts with AutoCAD, so its pretty well suited for this sort of stuff. Anyway, I'll just grab the .stl from Tinkercard and work from there.

gilrad said:
Thanks for your continued interest.
It is not designed to hold the phone "naked", I think rubber tack would offer much better traction.
I was thinking of adding a pair of horizontal telescoping arms as well. I think I could get it to fit without interfering with any of the core design mechanics.
One constraint is cost.
The device's angle is set at 45 degrees. It feels right, though maybe a more obtuse angle would be preferable to some. Once I get a working model I'll think more on this. As for ways of adding more grip, I feel eventually I will extend the bottom gripping prongs all the way across the controller, at least until it hits the triangle button (at its current state extending past that would partially cover it up). It will probably slowly evolve into that though as I need to make sure I observe the contours of the controller, and judging by how badly rev. 0 fits I can't rely on measurement alone.
As for the PlayDroid, all I really need are measurements and I will adjust the fit of the Andraxis. The whole thing is modeled in Rhino3d, which is basically a NURBS modeling program that shares a lot of design concepts with AutoCAD, so its pretty well suited for this sort of stuff. Anyway, I'll just grab the .stl from Tinkercard and work from there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By the rubber tack, are you referring to " Blu-Tacks " ?
Blue Tack: http://www.instructables.com/image/FJ9FKEFG7DY84RU/Prepare-the-Blue-tack-base.jpg
You might be right that it *can* offer better grip, but I think you'll find that's not really the case. Since these Tacks (despite which manufacturer) gets hardened and old, they lose their tendency to stick. So they only become a "hard creamy filling" . I think Scotch Tape should do a better job because it offers a " textured grip " (not as much as a fresh Blu-Tack) but it lasts, and it creates a physical pressure/sponge grip (superior to hard creamy fillings) to keep the device properly stabilized.
But in the end, it DOES NOT MATTER. These are aftermarket things that people will choose for themselves, as with the varnish / black paint point.
If the phone is to be sleeved in a case, then the BASE needs to be roughly 17 mm wide. 17mm is very large/thick but it will work.
To put it in perspective, an ATRIX 4G (11mm) + Silicon case (3 mm) + Tack/Scotch Tape (3 mm) = 17mm.
Do you know how to make a telescoping arm on the 3D modeller?
I do not, but if you were to show me I might be able to help.
I think that's the best way to move forward... but as I said before we should have ONLY ONE MOVING PART. It makes things much more simple AND durable. So basically just the one telescoping/adjustable one that moves vertically to clench the phone.
I don't think horizontal telescoping arm is necessary. After adding Tack/Scotch and fitting it tightly I doubt it will move sideways. Having a barrier on one end looks like it will do the trick nicely. Besides it makes it more simple and cheaper to print
It is costly printing with this company. I think we should look at finding another Printing Firm, maybe someone local? I have a feeling we need to do 5 - 12 prints until things are perfect. And for the start we need to print with the cheapest plastic available.
And once we have the "perfect mold" I think we can print them with a better plastic for cheaper as wholesale. Nothing too big, just like 200 units or so (which would sell fast), and sell them to people who want it ...basically saving them money and also covering the initial cost of printing.
P.S. I still haven't got the Datel TF2, when I do I'll check if it works on the Sixaxis App. If it does I will PM you for your address so I can post one to you, I think you could measure it more accurately than I.
P.S 2)
I just got 7 GB's free storage on DropBox, PM me soon if you want some instructions for it

Made some progress, draft 2:
https://tinkercad.com/things/2pqYnbHJpFl
But I'm stuck at a roadblock. I need to figure out how to implement the "telescoping zipper" for the adjustable arm for rev3.
I downloaded the Rhino3D program, but failed to make the object. Its just way too complicated for me. But I did test that the .stl from TinkerCAD works so I guess you can just keep downloading the revisions and adjusting it with your program of choice.
I'll stick with TinkerCAD hopefully manage some success with this project I don't want to let anyone down.
To do:
Once I do draft 3 I will print it up, find all faults and fix them up.
In the same time, I will thin down some surfaces as well as thicken up others.
The last piece of the puzzle would be to accomplish the telescoping arm with a thicker layer to make it durable (unlike some crappy phone holders).
After that hopefully the 4th draft is *perfect enough* for everyday use, and ready to be printed for everyone/mass.

Hey,
Yeah, when I mentioned rubber tack, I meant blue tack. I think, even though it might lose it's properties over time, the fact that it can conform to any shape is valuable, especially for devices with curved edges like the Galaxy phones.
Probably about a month away from getting the next revision, not being able to add funds to my PayPal account is really slowing things down.
Before I make a print, I will probably do a ninja revision and extend the base of the grip all the way to the triangle button, and add a part that rests on the shoulder button bump. The whole thing will be attached by a thin strip though, so if my measurements are way off it can still be broken off and the rest of the device will hopefully be useable.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA App

Cool.
Can you do me a favour and upload a copy of your .stl to TinkerCAD ?
Its a great tool to visualize the holster, and I might be able to make some changes/polish things up. Basically I want to contribute more than just a donation
P.S. You can PM it if you like

hi gilrad! thanks for your work, i think i will buy this thing! when will the next revision be available? or should i buy rev1? is it working with the galaxy note and the galaxy s2?

Hello,
You can buy rev.1 right now if you don't want to wait, but I haven't received it yet (I expect it to arrive around the 20th), so I can't guarantee it will work without a hitch.
It was designed to accommodate the Galaxy Note as the largest dimensions, and the iPhone as the smallest dimensions.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA App

I just received the Datel Turbo Fire 2 controller.
I've confirmed it works on the PS3 and the PC as a SIXAXIS remote. I'll test it with the SIXAXIS App (have to buy it first) and then find the dimensions then I'll post them here.
I've contacted a couple factories in China via email about making plastics. One has refused to service (demands an order of at least 200,000) and another says he can't do the task. I'm waiting for response from the others. If they agree, I'll be ordering a small batch from them (a dozen) when I've done tweeking it (rev4 ?). I'll be comparing the quality to the print service like Shapeways. If its acceptable, then I said I would negotiate a price for a larger order but I haven't discussed the size of the order (I'm thinking about 200 units for $10 each, they'll probably demand over 50,000 for $20 each). This was the same problem we faced with the OpenPandora and iControlPad.
Anyways, Did you see my previous post before?
Can you upload your .stl to TinkerCAD so its easy for me to modify/visualize.

Dude, don't bother looking for a way to get these produced with a Chinese plastics company unless you're willing to get a startup company loan, then devise a way to sell tens of thousands of units. There will be a large up-front fee coupled with a minimum order and month-long lead times. If these projects are getting plastic molded, it will be because an established company steps up and does the legwork.
Anyway, I don't want to release the stl until much much later. When you have confirmed your controller works with the sixaxis pair tool, I'll work on adapting my current model to it's dimensions.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA App

@Kangal: do you use the rev1? How is it? im short before ordering. just want to make shure, that everything is working alright.
@gilrad: donation is on the way!

moviecut said:
@Kangal: do you use the rev1? How is it? im short before ordering. just want to make shure, that everything is working alright.
@gilrad: donation is on the way!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the interest.
I haven't printed my rev1, I think its on-par with Gilrad's rev0.
Just wait for rev1 from Gilrad and it'll be much more decent. The last thing I want to do is rush it and have one of the arms snap (because it has no support) and have it drop someone's expensive phone. But I'm planning on morphing my design and Gilrad's design together sometime soon (I just need a free but easy to use 3D tool).
After that I'm going to differentiate and make a new version that supports the Datel TF2, a much better controller than SIXAXIS.....although I've still yet to test that thoroughly
I've been super busy these past 2 weeks (work from 7am to 10pm, 6 days a week plus living away from home) which is why I haven't made much progress.

Good news everyone!
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Revision 1 just arrived and I can confirm that it is the first fully functional working model. There are of course some caveats, check the changelog on the first post. I'll get a video of it in action when I can convince one of my friends to bring a video recorder (since my best recorder is on the phone that I will use to demo the project). Until then, enjoy these snapshots I took:

I've been keeping an eye on this and it looks brilliant! I think I could wait for Rev 2, but on the shop, in black, it's costing me about $50 - £35, which is a bit pricey...Is there anything you can do to reduce the cost or is it down to the store? Also, when do you think you'll have rev 2 done? I don't mean to be a pest, I'm going on holiday 29th March and would love to have it by then!

Awesome! This is just what is needed. I can't stand playing games on the touchscreen.

I just made the modifications for rev.2 and uploaded the model. Its now available.
As for shipping, well its really unfortunate but its out of my control. Its the only shipping option the 3d printing service offers right now, despite nearly every international customer begging them to allow for something cheaper. I guess if there is anything you could do, you could go to their forums and ***** about the expensive shipping costs
And for those worried about it not holding on to the cellphone very well, I can confirm that with foam tape used as traction on the gripping prongs and "filler material" to make the rest of it snug around the controller, it is quite firm. It has even passed the "passerby bump" test, where I "accidentally" bump into some random stranger on the street

Hi, I´m interested in your Project and want to buy it... What would it cost???
I´m from Germany, so sorry for my poor english

Snugg case available for pre-order

definitely not slim, and not cheap, but I've been very happy with this case for my N7-2012.
http://www.thesnugg.com/tablet-case...ather-case-cover-and-flip-stand-in-black.aspx
Will post once I get mine (pre-orders claim to ship Aug 23).

I got my Snugg case today...
what I like: they moved the loop for the stylus (not that I use it) away from blocking the USB port (as it did on the N7 2012 version of the case).
But alas, the case I got is a big fail. Open the case, the N7 turns on.. as you expect... and then when you finish folding the cover back behind the N7... that same magnet has enough pull to turn the N7 right back off
all you have to do is fold the cover back behind and slide it back and forth a little. I never had this problem with my N7(2012)+Snugg.
So I'm returning my case. Maybe they'll get the kinks worked out in a future batch.
EDIT: similar to the 2012 case, I do wish they made it a bit easier to reach the power/volume buttons.. the cut-out on the Poetic slimline is MUCH better for that.
EDIT2: Snugg is sending a replacement.. we'll see if its any better.
EDIT3: the comedy continues.. the replacement they sent was a red iPad case... not much good that will do... have emailed them again and waiting to hear back.

Got my replacement case.. same issue.... so I decided to do a little surgery...
I removed the stitching from 3 of the 4 sides around the tan Snugg logo, and peeled it back. Under that was a layer of light brown tape/paper.. I used a nife to scrape that back, and under that was a magnet which resembles a button battery... maybe 2/3 the diameter of a dime (US).
I used 2 pair of pliers to attempt to snap it in half.. it was fairly brittle, do I ended up with 4 pieces of different sizes.. I 1st tried the largest piece.. maybe ~50% of the original magnet... put it back in place, piece of electrical tape over, and tucked the logo back in place... still saw the problem.
So then I swapped that piece for the 2nd largest (maybe 1/4 of the original magnet).. and so far that seems to be doing the trick. Seems to open reliably from the front, and is NOT detected (knock wood) when the cover is folded to the rear.
I'll give it a few more days, then add some glue to secure the stitching I removed and call it a win.
I've emailed Snugg about this, but so far they are saying "we haven't had any other complaints".. I dunno, since I got one of the 1st cases they made for N7v2, I think that is a premature assessment on their part.
At this point, I hope I have the case I wanted.

RickySmith said:
Well Snugg is a nice case but I dont like that stylus space there...because I dont like to use stylus and more over that space will be more irritating one rather than being useful.....on comparison it with black leather portfolio case...i find that portfolio one is much better...as A case or a cover is a product that should be for the care of tab properly so i prefer that one over snugg...almost same price..but quality of leather portfolio case is much better...but its my personal experience i would say.....
Thanks....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stylus loop was at the bottom, blocking the USB port on their case for N7-2012.. they moved it to the top for N7-2013 (so it doesn't block anything now).. I don't use a stylus either, but it stays out of the way for me.
Snugg replied to my email, saying they have now gotten other complaints and are making an adjustment to the magnets in the case. Will be sending a revised case once it is ready.

RickySmith said:
Well Snugg is a nice case but I dont like that stylus space there...because I dont like to use stylus and more over that space will be more irritating one rather than being useful.....on comparison it with black leather portfolio case...i find that portfolio one is much better...as A case or a cover is a product that should be for the care of tab properly so i prefer that one over snugg...almost same price..but quality of leather portfolio case is much better...but its my personal experience i would say.....
Thanks....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
took a look at the link... I had a case like that for my Touchpad.. never again... I much prefer the Snugg style/functionality... I've had the N7-2012 version for almost a year.. zero fraying... it still is like-new. 2 others in the family have Snugg cases for different tablets, and they've had no issues either. *Other* than this current magnet issue (allegedly being fixed in a new batch of cases), I've seen nothing to suggest Snugg cases are anything but top quality, equal or better than any other "leather" case I've owned over the span of several tablets.
but the nice thing about this is that everyone likes a different style case, and there's something out there for just about everyone at every price point.

I got my rev2 case.. they did more than just fix the magnet... the inside cut-outs are different, and most importantly, they did a carve out around the power and volume buttons, making those much more accessible.
Oh, and by dumb luck, I figured out that the stylus loop can easily tuck in behind your N7, so it's totally out of the way (even tho it didn't bother me anyway).
and the magnet strength seems fixed now.
All in all I can now call this a very good case.

zim2dive said:
I got my rev2 case.. they did more than just fix the magnet... the inside cut-outs are different, and most importantly, they did a carve out around the power and volume buttons, making those much more accessible.
Oh, and by dumb luck, I figured out that the stylus loop can easily tuck in behind your N7, so it's totally out of the way (even tho it didn't bother me anyway).
and the magnet strength seems fixed now.
All in all I can now call this a very good case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just saw the update on the rev2 case, right after I got done talking to Snugg. The lady at first hesitated, checked with her supervisor then came back. Said they had similar issues and it was fixed, new cases would be aent out to thoae affected meaning you muat first complain to get a replacement. My issues were bad fit, camera slightly blocked front and back. Buttons impossible to find, edge was curled badly, left aide of screen slightly covered, and just now typing this response my magnet kicked my screen off! Just goto Snugg's website and click the chat link they will send out a case once they verify your order number with them or amazon. Glad to hear the updated case looks more like the picture on their website. Waiting for mine now.

jusfartinaround said:
Just saw the update on the rev2 case, right after I got done talking to Snugg. The lady at first hesitated, checked with her supervisor then came back. Said they had similar issues and it was fixed, new cases would be aent out to thoae affected meaning you muat first complain to get a replacement. My issues were bad fit, camera slightly blocked front and back. Buttons impossible to find, edge was curled badly, left aide of screen slightly covered, and just now typing this response my magnet kicked my screen off! Just goto Snugg's website and click the chat link they will send out a case once they verify your order number with them or amazon. Glad to hear the updated case looks more like the picture on their website. Waiting for mine now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm.. just looked at the website.. their pic looks like the original rev for N7-2013... the one I got has cutouts above and below the screen ~3/4 the width of the display... vs. their pic show just a cutout for the front facing camera.
EDIT: FWIW I have NO idea why the new cutouts above/below the screen were done this way. the other changes they made, make sense to me.

OMG, what the crap case!

Camera Bump Protection FIX

Hey!
Not a fan of cases, skins, or the like?
I have stumbled upon the best thing that fits inside the lump that protrudes from our lovely Nexus 5X's.
Paper Reinforcement Labels.
Those things we used once a long time in middle school now have a awesome purpose!
They fit inside the white lip perfectly and circle the camera module with grace.
When you stack three or more it creates a nice resting place for your phone.
Enjoy this little tip!
Let me know if you works for you!
Picture Attached!
-Romanpower

Somewhere out there, an industrial designer is weeping... (No disrespect, if you're this concerned about protecting that area than there must be others that feel the same way.)
One would hope that it was designed to be durable from its inception, since it's quite clear that this area will likely receive many impacts over the course of the device's life, whenever the phone is put down without caution.

I hope Spigen produce one.

redneck engineering.

ohussain said:
Somewhere out there, an industrial designer is weeping... (No disrespect, if you're this concerned about protecting that area than there must be others that feel the same way.)
One would hope that it was designed to be durable from its inception, since it's quite clear that this area will likely receive many impacts over the course of the device's life, whenever the phone is put down without caution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The fear is real. Really hoping that one was a freak accident. Ringke Slim case, apparently.

PhoenixTank said:
The fear is real. Really hoping that one was a freak accident. Ringke Slim case, apparently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been on the fence about returning mine because I've been wary about how much protection it provides. Looks like I have the answer to the question I already knew.

PhoenixTank said:
The fear is real. Really hoping that one was a freak accident. Ringke Slim case, apparently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow. I certainly hope you're right and this was just a freak accident. According to the thread on reddit, it only dropped about 1m, from a table onto the floor...
This is just one report (albeit a concerning one) - and it's still far too early to gauge if there is an issue here. At this time all we can do is wait and see (and try not to drop our phones).
On the subject of cases, bumpers, etc. I'm with the minority of those who go without - I like to use the device as it was designed. While I can appreciate the protective benefits a casing may offer, it's always visually apparent when there's a case on, (even the clearest/thinnest ones), and there is always some increase in size when it comes to handling, no matter how minimal. With the elephantine devices we have today, the 'bare' phones are big enough already. The 5X should have had much smaller top & bottom bezels, there's no need for it to be this tall. I wouldn't resent the large phones so much, but there are very few, if any, decent options for those of us who prefer smaller (around 5.2") phones.
I do use pouches/sleeves, but of course the phones are exposed when I'm actually using them, or if they're sitting on a table outside of their pouch. Over the course of a few years, I have accidentally dropped my phones a few times (Galaxy Nexus & Oneplus One, not the 5X thus far), and they have never received anything more than a few scuffs & minor scratches, of course their camera housings didn't protrude as far as that of the 5X.
Personally, I won't be concerned about the durability of the camera or the device in general until it's clear that there's an issue.