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Before we get an update (well if it will sort the problem...) I wonder if we could collect the best tricks and tips how to save battery life on Desire? Some of you have experience of apps and widgets that drain the battery fast, then we have the usual (turn of 3g, wifi, avoid white backgrounds etc).
What you think? Lets share what we found out!
- Turn off any auto-update for anything unless you really (really) need them
- Even if you really (REALLY) need auto-update, set auto-update period to longer interval (why do you want to get weather update every hour? just an example)
- Again, review your auto-update apps/widgets!!!
- Turn off GPS. Turn this on only when you are going to use sat nav app
- Turn off Wi-Fi. It is obvious, turn it on when needed and dont forget to turn off!
- Turn off Bluetooth, unless you want to use it (headphone???)
- Don't use task killer of any kind unless you really (REALLY) know what you are doing. Let Android OS take care of killing those inactive apps, Android is designed for this.
- Set your screen brightness as low as possible your eyes could use. Full brightness is really not necessary unless you want to show off to iPhone users
- Limit your home screen widgets, think if you really want to use to have "quick look". Otherwise you can just put icon shortcut, one click and there you go!
- Choose AMOLED friendly apps. Meaning, avoid any white or extreme bright UI / background colors. For example: The XDA Android app created by Tapatalk is AMOLED friendly compared to browsing via web, because it uses black color background. Find apps that you can customize the color
- Choose AMOLED friendly themes. I would replace the default HTC big clock that uses white color with other that uses black color.
That's for now
The first charge is important for the battery and your device too. The battery has to be charged long time, 12-16 hours first time to use all the chemicals it has. Some says that the polymer batteries don't need the first big charge but specialist's says it's good practise to do it with the LiPoly batteries too.
Note: it's best practise to wait until the battery reaches it's critical level (around 5%) before you start the first big charge. The first charge also calibrates your devices power meter.
Mastoid said:
The first charge is important for the battery and your device too. The battery has to be charged long time, 12-16 hours first time to use all the chemicals it has. Some says that the polymer batteries don't need the first big charge but specialist says it's good practice to do it with the LiPoly batteries too.
Note, that you have to wait until the battery reaches it's critical level (around 5%) before start the first big charge. The first charge also calibrates your devices power meter.
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Is this really really true? I hopefully will be getting a new Desire tomorrow (for exchange) and when I received my previous one, I didn't drain the battery and then charge for 12 hours. I would not mind doing it if it really improves the battery life but I've seen conflicting articles/opinions about this whole 12 hours charge thing
From HTC FAQ
http://www.htc.com/www/faqs.aspx?p_id=312&cat=80&id=127114
When I first receive my phone, do I need to charge the battery?
Your phone ships with a partially charged battery so it's suggested you charge your battery fully before first use. The battery is fully charged when the notification LED turns green.
It is recommended to charge the battery for 8 hours the first time to ensure that the battery has had time to recharge.
Note: It is recommended that you only use the charger and cable provided in the box your phone was shipped in.
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HoneyBeFly said:
Is this really really true? I hopefully will be getting a new Desire tomorrow (for exchange) and when I received my previous one, I didn't drain the battery and then charge for 12 hours. I would not mind doing it if it really improves the battery life but I've seen conflicting articles/opinions about this whole 12 hours charge thing
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Thanks for that although if I remember correctly on the Desire quick quide it says I need to charge it for 3 hours for the first time. Regardless, it insinuates that I shouldn't drain the battery before the first charge
Please try and read about how a li-ion battery works.
NiCd and NiMH need longer (and slow) initial charge(s). Because indeed the battery still needs to form. Usually 5 charges, but cheap ones reach max capacity after eg 15 charges.
This is NOT the case for li-ion batteries. They have max capacity as soon as they roll out of the factory. And they start degrading from that point.
Keeping the Desire charged longer has no use. Because as soon as the battery is full, the internal chip will cut off the charge. So you can just as well plug out your charger.
There are so many voodoo stories about batteries, even from manufacturers. Probably because each battery chemistry need different handling. Whereas li-ion batteries are actually much more easy. They don't last too long though :/
updates
Every now and then you get a notification of available updates to apps... anyone knows how this works and if it does drain the battery? Is there a way to turnthe update check off?
Can you try this:
http://androidcommunity.com/forums/f12/how-to-turn-off-application-upgrade-check-12723/
Let us know the result.
jannen said:
Every now and then you get a notification of available updates to apps... anyone knows how this works and if it does drain the battery? Is there a way to turnthe update check off?
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Sup sup.
Okay basically I just want to know, what's the MOST efficient way to store my HTC Battery away? I want to use a bigger battery bank as a replacement thus I want to store my HTC default batt away. I don't want to find that 1 year after not using it, it depletes 1%/s.
Any battery experts ? =)
Thanks.
Store batteries properly. If your battery will be out of use for a while, disconnect it from the phone and store it in a cool and dry but not freezing place (an airtight container in a refrigerator, but not a freezer). Don't keep it with metal objects that might move around and short-circuit the terminals. Lithium ion batteries are not rated to operate at refrigerated temperatures, so let the battery sit outside the refrigerator for at least an hour before using it again. Lithium ion batteries oxidize least when they are stored at 40% charge. Never store a lithium battery at low voltage. Recharge batteries after storage.
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Also found this: http://www.ehow.com/how_5073544_store-cell-phone-battery.html
Thanks mate.
3 Ways to get your battery usage to normal.
Gundam00qan said:
Sup sup.
Okay basically I just want to know, what's the MOST efficient way to store my HTC Battery away? I want to use a bigger battery bank as a replacement thus I want to store my HTC default batt away. I don't want to find that 1 year after not using it, it depletes 1%/s.
Any battery experts ? =)
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There're a few steps, if followed, will come up with a very good battery working in real time space.
1. First of all you must have the most suitable Radio installed on your device, the latest radio made so far is the one i'm personally using and i found it really good, not only for battery timing but also for no incompatibility with certain native functions.
2. Secondly, open your dialer and write *#*#4636#*#* and click the call button. you'd be taken to a special menu. Click Phone Information and then press the menu button followed by clicking "more" in the menu. Now disable both the data and the data connection on boot. (It would disable all the unnecessary data flowing charges made through different services being used by your device)
3. Thirdly, Install Advance Task Killer and go into it's settings and set Auto Kill Level to "Crazy" and Auto Kill Frequency to "When screen off".
Voilla, you're done.
Enjoy a very good battery timing. Mine runs almost 43 Hours!
This is not a thread about best battery tips, etc. And I'm hoping it is not another standard thread about how to calibrate our batteries.
There is a lot of information flying around regarding battery calibration. A lot of it involves draining the battery, plugging it in at certain time, removing the battery, erasing batterystats.bin, etc. etc. etc.
Some feel the batterystats.bin file is key, and others believe it is completely unrelated to how the battery performs--just a log of stats.
How can this be reconciled?
UPDATE: Deleting batterystats.bin to "recalibrate" a battery is total and utter nonsense
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1442989
https://plus.google.com/u/0/105051985738280261832/posts/FV3LVtdVxPT
Over on the Nexus One forum, there was/is an extensive discussion, with REAL data gleaned from reading the technical datasheets of the battery itself, and the DS2784 chip within. The key to the Nexus calibration program was the ability to reprogram values on the battery chip.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=765609
I don't know if much of anything is going to be the same on the GNex battery, since the N1 was a HTC product. However, if the charging algorithms are all dictated by the Android OS, instead of hardware specific, then it could provide useful precedent. (I am not going to go through all the Samsung forums to look for valid battery calibration threads--if you know of some, for say, the Nexus S or Galaxy S2 (predecessor and comparable cousin, let's call them) please comment).
Here's a primer for all I learned that was used on the Nexus One battery calibration program. Full credit to those fine users who took the reins and made that happen, and to the fine users who continue to provide user support to the newcomers who don't know/refuse to acknowledge the existence of a search function.
My hopes are that this will lead to more rational battery life discussions and maximization for the Galaxy Nexus.
(I am not an engineer, so if any of you out there would like to tighten the language used here, please let me know).
What are the important values in battery/calibration?
1. mV = voltage
2. mAh = milliamp hours, a measure of capacity. This is how much 'juice' your battery has left/stored.
3. mA = milliamps, a measure of current. This is how much 'battery power' your phone is drawing/using at a set time. GPS/bright screen means large mA usage.
Apparently, Samsung (and Motorola phones) do NOT have mA readings in their battery drivers. This poses a problem. Apps that measure current (such as the excellent and free "current widget") cannot give a readout.
How is the battery life % calculated?
Present mAh / "full" capacity mAh (more on "full" later)
When does a phone shut down?
1. When mAh = 0
OR
2. When mV < 3416, which is coded on the battery as the "empty voltage"
Whichever occurs first.
If mAh = 0, then batt % = 0. However if condition 2 occurs, batt % could be anything.
I have found the empty voltage on the GNex to be the same, 3416 mV.
I have found the maximum voltage on the stock GSM battery to be 4197 mV.
Through experimentation, it was found that reprogramming the "empty voltage" down to 3201mv could provide extended battery life. The voltage was found to drop very quickly any lower than that, providing minimal gain afterwards.
What is the full capacity of a battery?
On the N1 battery, it is coded into a chip on the battery itself. This can be reprogrammed with the calibration utility. The stock value was ~1400mah. This is called the Full40 value (the mAh at 40oC). A value called "battery age %" is used to adjust how close the real capacity is to the full, which decreases with use and age. By multiplying (batt age * full40), you get the real assigned capacity.
Some non-OEM batteries, however, had miscoded capacities, usually LOWER than what was advertised. This led to very disappointed users who had purchased extended batteries that lasted no longer than stock, due to wrong mAh coding. (See below how this could be corrected).
Other low-end crappy non-OEM batteries had a crap chip which was coded with nonsensical values. This also led to unreliable battery life. These chips were not reprogrammable.
The very interesting thing is whenever the battery thinks it was completely charged, the mAh becomes SET to this number. mAh is NOT an independent value. Also, you could set it whatever you wanted, whenever you wanted, whether it was accurate or not. % battery left was basically calculated as present mAh / (full40 mAh*batt age). So you could get false values of either too little or too much battery left.
Why does this matter? If that was falsely low, the phone would cut out at 0% battery life, but you would still have usable battery left. If it was falsely high, it would cut out at 10% or whatever, since voltage would hit 3416 faster than mAh hit 0.
How does the battery know/think it is full?
When connected to a charger, the phone draws +mA. It can start around 1000mA (depending on the charger), and drops as the battery becomes more and more charged.
Another coded value, the "minimum charge current," tells the battery when to stop drawing current. This is set at default to +80mA.
Another coded value, the "minimum charge voltage," tells the battery that as long as the voltage is less than this #, it should continue to charge. At default, this is 4099mV.
An important concept is that once the charge amperage drops below minimum charge current (and the voltage is > the minimum charge voltage), the battery thinks it is done. Again, that state becomes 100%. Again, the capacity mAh is SET to the full capacity, no matter what is at that time. The actual mAh doesn't matter--it BECOMES whatever is coded as the (age % * full capacity).
As with other values in the battery chip, minimum charge current can be changed. It can be made to 40mA, or 20mA, or whatever you wish. By doing this, the battery will continue to draw current, and thus charge more and longer, until the minimum charge current is met.
Speaking of charging amperage, this can be an issue when using a non-OEM crap car charger when using your smartphone as a GPS. If the DC adapter is NOT truly giving 1A, the phone will use more current than it is receiving, and the battery will continue to LOSE current despite being hooked to a charger. Upgrade your car DC adapter! They are not all made the same.
How does 'bump' charging relate to all this?
Bump charging is essentially a way to trick the battery to continue charging despite the current draw being < the minimum charge current.
There is a problem with this "full" battery detection method:
If you draw enough current from the battery, while it is charging, after the minimum charge volt is reached, you can PREMATURELY fool the battery into thinking it is done.
Say the charging mA is at +200mA. If you turn on your smartphone, start GPS, turn the lights on, stream Pandora, etc., the mA will easily drop from +200 to a lesser value, negative even. The phone will think the charge is complete, since it is <80ma. THAT state becomes 100%, because the mAh get set to full capacity. Falsely.
However, this should only happen when the charge is ~90% or greater (when mv >4099). So, it may not play a huge significant role in battery time, basically missing out on 10% or so of battery life. Also, at the next recharge cycle, provided you don't fool it again, the mAh will be RESET to the more appropriate designated value.
If mAh can be set to whatever value whenever, how do we get it PROPERLY set/calibrated?
There are 2 times when mAh is automatically set. Upon draining the battery to empty (3416mv by default, 3201 preferably), when the phone shuts down, the mAh will be properly set = 0. This is good. We want mAh = 0 when mV = empty voltage.
The other time is when the battery thinks it's full, when minimum charge current is met--this is often not accurately set, not good.
If we start charging when the battery is empty, the mAh rises as the battery is charged. However, the MAXIMUM mAh needs to be watched. The mAh could be HIGHER than the programmed full mAh. Or far lower. Finding this maximum mAh, and reprogramming the battery accordingly, is the key.
Once again, when the battery hits the minimum charge current, the mAh will either jump up to the set battery capacity value (so the battery will die sooner than expected), or less commonly, drop down.
The goal is to get an accurate mAh capacity of the battery, for the voltage range between min + max, and have this set every time the battery is charged to capacity.
If we know the maximum mAh the battery reaches when charging, provided it started from 0, we want to reprogram the battery so that this value is set each time it completes charge.
There is a "learn mode" on the Nexus battery. Provided this was activated, through a series of very specific events, the battery would give itself a "battery age %". This is used to give the accurate (battery age % * full40) = true capacity. On the Nexus, the default battery age was 94%. So, mAh was set at every full charge to 94% of the full40 capacity. Obviously, this is not true for every battery forever.
Once again, why errors can and do occur:
mAh and mV are not directly linked. If mA falls to 0, or mV is less than the cutoff empty voltage, the phone will shutdown, even if the other value is still sufficient.
1. mAh is falsely high. The battery won't last as long as we think it will. Battery % is falsely high. Phone won't get to 0%.
2. mAh is falsely low. The voltage is adequate, but the mAh isn't correct. The battery % is falsely low. Phone gets to 0% too quickly. Perceived loss of battery life duration.
Why use mAh at all? Seems like mV is the only important thing?
I don't know. Why is mAh capacity important in telling the phone to shutdown? Someone enlighten me.
I think one reason is that voltage can and does fluctuate up. So using this to calculate battery % life would be extremely erratic and confusing.
What does this teach us, overall?
I'd have thought there would be much better technology built into battery calibration. Seriously. This is one big mess of poor design.
This is a bunch of technical mumbo jumbo. How does this help me?
On the N1, you can give yourself more battery life!
1. Set your 'empty voltage' lower
2. Set your minimum charge current lower
3. Calibrate the maximum mAh to a higher value to accomodate the new 'empty voltage' and 'minimum charge current' values
4. Don't play with the phone too much when it is >90% charging or it will prematurely end its charge cycle, give you a falsely higher charge %, resulting in the battery dying before you think it should.
5. Profit.
(On an extended 3200mAh battery from Seideo, after lowering the empty voltage and minimum charge current, I found >3900mAh (!) as my new maximum mAh. That's a heck of a lot of free juice).
On other phones? I'm hoping real programmers here can figure out how to do the same.
So, for the Nexus One, there is ABSOLUTELY NO correlation between battery calibration and the battery stats file. NONE. The values on the battery chip determine everything.
So, please comment on how battery calibration tech has changed over the past 2 Nexus generations. If it has.
ADDENDUM:
RogerPodacter, the xda guru/user who was instrumental in creating the N1 battery calibration app, has been looking into the GNex battery quite intently.
I just stumbled across some useful info about our battery fuel gauge from the sgs2 forum. Basically the result is there is not much we can do with our fuel gauge. But they do talk about how to truly calibrate it. And they discuss the improved version max17042 which is used on tbe sgs2 and has all the bells and whistles.
Heres the topic.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=1312273
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
(If you found this info useful, please click the THANKS button!)
Somebody is looking at this already. That same somebody who made the nexus one battery app. This chip doesnt supply amperage either. After i told him my battery seems to only charge to about 4.15v and that on discharging/charging my voltage is everwhere so it is hard to ascertain how accurate my % is. He finally got a chance to look over some stuff and we both think the nexus only allows charging to 4.15v. And. I think the battery shutdowns at 3.6v this go around. From initial observation he led me to believe everyrhing seems to be fine and we might not be able to do much. He might be able to get 4.2v and 3.4v for the voltage cycle. This is partly my speculation but we did agree that samsung may have done this intentionally for longevity of the battery. We will have to wait and see because he is still tinkering with his phone and deciding how to initially proceed. Might be a few days though. I am getting the extended battery soon so i would like to see what changes there are from the 250mah difference.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
To gleam is to shine or sparkle... to glean is to learn or become knowledgeable about.
FrayAdjacent said:
To gleam is to shine or sparkle... to glean is to learn or become knowledgeable about.
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..wow, just wow.
To the OP thank you for all this compiled information.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA App
FrayAdjacent said:
To gleam is to shine or sparkle... to glean is to learn or become knowledgeable about.
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I thought the same thing but possible typo. N and m are next to each other. But if op ends up giving us something tangible positively foe the nexus he will have gleamed. Lol.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
Agggh. I suppose gleam could be appropriate here. But yes, glean was the original intent.
Due to my grammar OCD-ness, it has been edited. =P
@rbiter said:
Somebody is looking at this already. That same somebody who made the nexus one battery app. This chip doesnt supply amperage either. After i told him my battery seems to only charge to about 4.15v and that on discharging/charging my voltage is everwhere so it is hard to ascertain how accurate my % is. He finally got a chance to look over some stuff and we both think the nexus only allows charging to 4.15v. And. I think the battery shutdowns at 3.6v this go around. From initial observation he led me to believe everyrhing seems to be fine and we might not be able to do much. He might be able to get 4.2v and 3.4v for the voltage cycle. This is partly my speculation but we did agree that samsung may have done this intentionally for longevity of the battery. We will have to wait and see because he is still tinkering with his phone and deciding how to initially proceed. Might be a few days though. I am getting the extended battery soon so i would like to see what changes there are from the 250mah difference.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
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Great to hear! Is that on this forum or rootzwiki, or a private communication?
I have noticed that shut down is usually at 3.6 or so. I drained it completely one time with multiple reboot attempts, and I got battery monitor widget to log a 3.417 or so that ONE time, but yes, the battery prefers to quit more around 3.6.
Battery monitor widget outputs an 'estimated' mA, but that's the closest thing I could find.
Wow you brought up the nexus one battery project. I was actually the one who re-wrote that battery driver for the n1 linked in the thread in the first post. Then I wrote the apk with dvghl. I even got my altered battery driver officially merged into the cyan kernel repo for the n1.
Anyway my point is that I learned an ENORMOUS amount about how these fuel gauge chips work, specifically the ds2784 chip in the n1. The bad news is our galaxy nexus chip max17040 doesn't have all the cool features that I cracked open on the ds2784 chip. But still worth trying a few things. Specifically I'm curious what the rcomp register does in our battery driver.
Also the other bad news is our galaxy nexus max17040 cannot give current mA readings. It can only be estimated using battery monitor widget for example.
Unfortunately we don't have a learn mode or age register like we did in the n1, so we can't get too deep into the chip like we did in that project. Kinda unfortunate. Seems the max17040 only has about 7 memory registers, where the n1 ds2784 had about 30 or so registers we could hack into and tweak.
RogerP, so good to see you here! Hope my summary gave some hint as to the enormous amount of effort your project took, and the huge leap in battery charging knowledge it provided.
waylo said:
RogerP, so good to see you here! Hope my summary gave some hint as to the enormous amount of effort your project took, and the huge leap in battery charging knowledge it provided.
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Hey man, you did a near perfect job with the write up. That project was a one of a kind opportunity in the sense that the ds2784 chip, and the tech sheet and hacks we did, all lined up to be the perfect storm of what we can learn and do with these batteries. So much knowledge was extracted from that effort.
The bad news is that Samsung phones don't typically use the ds2XXX fuel gauge chips, instead they use max1704X chips. These chips use voltage to determine SOC along with their "secret" algorithm that they don't publish. In the end there isn't as much ability to do anything with our fuel gauge like we did with the n1. There are 7 registers or so, SOC, mode, volt, rcomp, but no current and no mAh. The rcomp is the one I was curious about tweaking.
This weekend I was thinking of setting up Ubuntu build environment and attempting to play arount with this new driver and see if we can learn anything more. I'm sure there are more capable devs who maybe already know about this fuel gauge cause the nexus s and other Samsung phones use similar chip. It'd be another fun project if so!
Thanks OP. Very helpful.
Glad to spread the word!
Don't forget to click the THANKS button if I helped!
thanks!! helps alot more knowledgeable now about batteries
I bought the spare battery kit that comes with an external charger. I run my battery to near empty or empty then swap it out. Do the external chargers behave the same way?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Very happy to see the same crew from the N1 battery calibration days on the GN. I was pretty disappointed when I got the NS and there was little discussion or attention given to the battery at such a detailed level. By the time I picked up the GN I had mostly accepted that the N1 situation and battery related dev/testing/discussion was unique in that it was both possible to tinker with and we had some dedicated fellas, especially you RP, that were willing/able to tackle the task.
As with the N1 battery testing, I'm all in to test and help whenever possible to break some ground with the GN.
This topic made me reminisce about my old N1, wish I hadn't sold it on eBay. I sold it to a Canadian, cost me a bloody fortune to ship to him bc of restrictions on amount of lithium cells/customs regulations. The guy was probably wondering if he bought it from some nut job when it arrived with like 7 batteries of many different manufacture/capacity and spare battery chargers. I half expect that US/CAN Customs put me on some kind of list when they inspected the shipment.
ellesshoo said:
As with the N1 battery testing, I'm all in to test and help whenever possible to break some ground with the GN.
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Click to collapse
I'd also be willing to contribute to these efforts.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
deekjx said:
I bought the spare battery kit that comes with an external charger. I run my battery to near empty or empty then swap it out. Do the external chargers behave the same way?
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Click to collapse
That's an excellent question I don't know the answer to. I'm not sure what kind of charging algorithm the external chargers would use, except to stop charging once the current reaches a certain low level.
As RogerP described above, most of the GNex battery algorithms are a mystery at this point, with some proprietary methods that won't ever be voluntarily revealed =P.
There is probably not a whole lot that can be done with the nexus battery. Yall gotta remember there was a bugnor bad programming revealed and that is why so much time was devoted to that. Roger already found that the battery stops around 4.15 volts. Changing it 4.2 will not make a big difference here and im sure it is intentional to extend charging cycles.
My grandma beat me down and took my nexus. Sent from a jitterbug with beats by dre.
well i dont think this project is "dead". i still plan to compile a kernel with a few batt driver tweaks and see if we can extract what the "rcomp" register is, what values it contains, and if we can tweak it at all. same with the "mode" register. also if you guys browse the source, there is a different driver called max10742 and it has all the extra options including "age". if only samsung had given us that one.
the other thing i want to do, or someone here could do, is map the voltage readings to the batt percentages. we did this way back in the beginning on the n1, except we mapped percentage vs mAh. but here we dont have mAh readings, only volts. what we can learn from this is if the percentage is calculated precisely from the voltage, how linear the mapping is, or if it's loosely estimated based on their modelgauge algorithm or whatever they call it at maxim.
i think it would be easy to just use battery monitor widget and export a full day's worth of your logs. maybe i'll install it and give it a shot.
I already have weeks of mv vs. batt % if you need that, specifically from battery monitor widget.
Graph 1: All data from the start. 5000 data points.
Graph 2: ~600 data points, starting from after I ran the battery down to 0 completely, plugged in with phone off, and charged to 100%.
Not sure why all the data gives 2 distinctly different patterns. The lower data plots seems more favorable, with higher % at lower mV.
Hey, has anyone noticed their battery meter saying a low percentage and then seeing it increase after not touching the phone for a while? ive noticed my phone will say 2% for example and ill let it sit for a while and when i check it again its all the way up to 10%. I have calibrated the battery but it doesn't affect it and it still happens?
lol yea my battey is solar powered.. lol jkjk.. but naw its because when your screen is on it adjusts tye percentage based off how your using it.. if its asleep for a while tye battery percentage will increase because its not being used make sense?
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
elliwigy said:
lol yea my battey is solar powered.. lol jkjk.. but naw its because when your screen is on it adjusts tye percentage based off how your using it.. if its asleep for a while tye battery percentage will increase because its not being used make sense?
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
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Click to collapse
Nope, it actually doesn't make sense.
You're gas gauge in your car doesn't go up when your car isn't being used. Percentages shouldn't increase without charging no matter what.
FWIW, I've experienced this a few times. My battery has increased as much as 5% without being charged and that's in one string. For example, my battery may go down to 50%, then over the next 20 minutes go to 55%, then an hour later 42% and rise up to 45% and so on. Not sharp spikes either, steady gradual increases.
elliwigy said:
lol yea my battey is solar powered.. lol jkjk.. but naw its because when your screen is on it adjusts tye percentage based off how your using it.. if its asleep for a while tye battery percentage will increase because its not being used make sense?
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it does not work like that.
Battery app re-calculates the remaining battery based on the battery power currently being used (mV) and history. That's why we are doing the calibration to correctly measure the current battery status and range of it.
In most case, battery power (mV), it goes down from the top and it usually up & down within a small range but for overall, it goes down.
But sometimes, the current mV is goes up and it's caused by
1. Battery usage forecast was wrong or
2. Battery is recovering its power again - for example, after CPU intensive task, the voltage could goes up
3. the remaining percentage goes up if the battery usage is slower than the expectation (it's not going up because it's not being used. Even the screen is off, the battery is still being used). In this case battery app recalculate the percentage based on the current mV and trend that how fast battery mV is decreasing. If mV is increasing, then battery app will show like it's being charged...
There are couple of more things that we also consider in here but I think this is enough information to know.
Update: Let me add a couple of more.
From OP's screenshot, it shows that there's big drop in battery percentage. Usually, big drop happens (battery power is decreasing so fast), it's really hard to calculate the exact remaining percentage because battery shows some irregular pattern after that kind of fast drop. So, some point of time, battery app recalculate the percentage based on current voltage. That's why it's showing going up.
One more case is, the pattern change. After big drop and/or voltage is about the same (stay almost same), then battery app also adjust the remaining battery level indicator.
Simple example) Just like Human. I just finished eating and fully charged. After a meal, I worked so hard and almost exhausted. No power left. But after a little break, I could recover my power a little more.
This example is not exactly same but it would be more easier to understand.
I have noticed this. Could it be that after the battery runs out the phone puts itself in a low consumption mode, thus the battery cools down, increasing the efficiency of delivering power, thus increasing the apparent voltage available? This would be similar to putting the battery in the fridge to get a litte bit of extra juice...
Sent from my SGT10.1 using XDA Premium
Its just the phone reading the voltage wrong, the calibration is outta wack.
qwerty12601 said:
Nope, it actually doesn't make sense.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Makes complete sense. There is no accurate way to judge the potential energy stored within a battery. Changes in temperature are one of many things that effect the chemical availability of energy.
Little shifts in measured overall capacity and current charge change all the time on every device you own. Most of them do not update to reflect this, some dont update in the wrongest way. My ASUS gaming laptop doesnt report new full charge capacities to windows and now more than ever with the battery being half shot i can hit 150% but it always did this from new sometimes would show it had stopped charging at 98% when it reached full capacity or 101%.
I can explain the software aspects of the problem. But you will need an electrical engineer, chemical analyst to help you go over the batteries end of it. I of course am not familiar with Android in particular but Portable PC's Sony's PSP etc seen it everywhere.
Its due to a flaw in Samsung phones where it does not correctly read the battery. Sometimes a phone reboot will show as much as a 70% (from my experience) in battery but then my battery will start to "charge" itself as the phone reads the voltage better. I've seen this happen on our phones and the captivate
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
qwerty12601 said:
Nope, it actually doesn't make sense.
You're gas gauge in your car doesn't go up when your car isn't being used. Percentages shouldn't increase without charging no matter what.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you have no idea how mechanical measuring works, do you? here is an example of how gas is measured; a floating ball attached to an arm changes the voltage of the signal depending on the amount of fuel in the tank. Higher the ball, higher the voltage, and thus higher the gas gauge.
Consequently, you will notice fuel gauges reading higher going uphill and lower when going down, because gas doesnt just sit in one place. The gauge is usually calibrated for when the car is standing still.
Now that you have an idea how mechanical measurement works, can you apply this to battery chemistry? NO, because they are completely different!
Battery life is measured using a formula, not a mechanical device. It is, in essence, a best guess. Some formulas are better than others, but they are all still estimates. And you will notice fluctuations.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
rianbechtold said:
Hey, has anyone noticed their battery meter saying a low percentage and then seeing it increase after not touching the phone for a while? ive noticed my phone will say 2% for example and ill let it sit for a while and when i check it again its all the way up to 10%. I have calibrated the battery but it doesn't affect it and it still happens?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i had the same thing happened to me, and i have the pic somewhere.. where the battery just dropped from like 80% to 30% in less then 5 min.. i was using it, and had the screen off, and had it on again.. and it went down like crazy.. and afterwards.. it started to go up, as if i was charging the phone..
some one said that, its a bug by samsung, where if you charge your phone not quiet to 100% and use the phone, this can happen..
concerning what some other guy said about turning the phone off and on, can boost batery power.. that was hilarious sad..
likkkkkke thisssss?
first one is recent.. second one is from one of the initial ics leaks..
Or this freak
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
Somairotevoli said:
Or this freak
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Um or not lol. Considering you have charging in there
RainMotorsports said:
Um or not lol. Considering you have charging in there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or yes as you can see it clearly (or in your case, not so clearly) going up at points it's not being changed
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
Somairotevoli said:
Or yes as you can see it clearly (or in your case, not so clearly) going up at points it's not being changed
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
However very much expected. You have created a circumstance where accuracy was guaranteed to be off. Making sure that multiple corrections were a reality.
I would hope that in a 2 day period you had 3 to 4 hours to sleep where this phone could have reached 100% twice and only been on the charger about 4 times. Obviously a couple very busy days for you. I could guess any number of occupations that might have done this to you
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
That looks almost as if to suggest the sampling did not occur at all while the phone was sleeping.
turbomeister said:
you have no idea how mechanical measuring works, do you? here is an example of how gas is measured; a floating ball attached to an arm changes the voltage of the signal depending on the amount of fuel in the tank. Higher the ball, higher the voltage, and thus higher the gas gauge.
Consequently, you will notice fuel gauges reading higher going uphill and lower when going down, because gas doesnt just sit in one place. The gauge is usually calibrated for when the car is standing still.
Now that you have an idea how mechanical measurement works, can you apply this to battery chemistry? NO, because they are completely different!
Battery life is measured using a formula, not a mechanical device. It is, in essence, a best guess. Some formulas are better than others, but they are all still estimates. And you will notice fluctuations.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now that you've got that out of your system, let me explain it a little more simply so you understand.
It was an analogy. I never said that battery percentage was calculated the same way as fuel capacity. But it's an analogy to help you relate.
Batter percentage is a measure of volume of power left in the battery. It should never fluctuate UP without being charged, unless something is wrong with the battery/phone. 55% is 55%, no matter what temperature, usage time, current usage is. If the battery is 1800 mah, then 50% battery level means there's 900 mah left. It's not a calculation of anything else. Just like if your fuel tank hold 16gal, and the needle is at 1/2 (stationary of course, not parked/driving up or downhill as you needlessly pointed out), you have 8 gal left. There's no mathematical calculation needed there.
Just for reference, I own no other electronic device that magically increases in battery percentage. My laptop goes down unless it's being charged. It's a quirk/flaw with the system in the phone. Plain and simple.
BTW, no apology needed. I'm just happy to educate you!
Didn't you know? Our device's covering is actually made of solar panels
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
qwerty12601 said:
Nope, it actually doesn't make sense.
You're gas gauge in your car doesn't go up when your car isn't being used. Percentages shouldn't increase without charging no matter what.
FWIW, I've experienced this a few times. My battery has increased as much as 5% without being charged and that's in one string. For example, my battery may go down to 50%, then over the next 20 minutes go to 55%, then an hour later 42% and rise up to 45% and so on. Not sharp spikes either, steady gradual increases.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My gas guage goes up when i park uphill.
So the battery life absolutely sucks on my One. If I start using it at 8am its dead by 5 pm. And that's just normal usage like surfing the web over WiFi, playing games (candy crush, dots, angry birds space,) maybe watching a few short videos over WiFi and the occasional text message. I have a battery saver app and I can see that it helps but I guess there's only so much it can do,Z so I want to get one of those cases that has an external battery built in. I have a few questions.
1. Does anyone here use one of these? Please give your input.
2. What's the best one? I've done a little research and found that the i-Blason and Mophie ones seem to be most popular. They're both a bit pricey.
3. How do they work? Does the phone just start directly using the external power after you switch it on, or does it just charge the internal battery?
4. Can these things have any kind of adverse effects on the internal battery from odd charging voltage or anything like that?
5. Do they actually extend your battery time as advertised? I'd be happy with getting two full days out of a single charge and some of these things are advertised as extending it by more that 1.5x. It seems like if the external battery is just charging the internal battery it would be a bit less efficient than if it were directly powering the phone. Does that make sense? It just seems like there couldn't possibly be a direct conversion of 2300 mAh from one battery to completely charge another 2300 mAh battery.
I hope that wasn't too confusing. Personally, I can't wait until lithium-sulfur batteries are in all our electronic devices (potentially 4x energy density.) Google it. Sounds promising.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
JGress said:
So the battery life absolutely sucks on my One. If I start using it at 8am its dead by 5 pm. And that's just normal usage like surfing the web over WiFi, playing games (candy crush, dots, angry birds space,) maybe watching a few short videos over WiFi and the occasional text message. I have a battery saver app and I can see that it helps but I guess there's only so much it can do,Z so I want to get one of those cases that has an external battery built in. I have a few questions.
1. Does anyone here use one of these? Please give your input.
2. What's the best one? I've done a little research and found that the i-Blason and Mophie ones seem to be most popular. They're both a bit pricey.
3. How do they work? Does the phone just start directly using the external power after you switch it on, or does it just charge the internal battery?
4. Can these things have any kind of adverse effects on the internal battery from odd charging voltage or anything like that?
5. Do they actually extend your battery time as advertised? I'd be happy with getting two full days out of a single charge and some of these things are advertised as extending it by more that 1.5x. It seems like if the external battery is just charging the internal battery it would be a bit less efficient than if it were directly powering the phone. Does that make sense? It just seems like there couldn't possibly be a direct conversion of 2300 mAh from one battery to completely charge another 2300 mAh battery.
I hope that wasn't too confusing. Personally, I can't wait until lithium-sulfur batteries are in all our electronic devices (potentially 4x energy density.) Google it. Sounds promising.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. I don't use these so I can't comment on this.
2. The iBlason and Mophie are the only ones available that I have ever seen. The Mophie being the higher quality (materials not necessarily battery life) of the two but also twice the price.
3. The phone will use the battery cases charge first then once that is drained use the phones internal battery. However if your phone battery isn't fully charged and you plug a charged case into it, it will charge the phone.
4. It's a good question and I'm not 100% sure. If you use it properly it shouldn't cause any major issues. Using it "properly" meaning your phone has full charge when it is paired with case so that the case isn't charging the phone. That being said, the damage is no different than someone constantly charging and discharging their phone in short bursts rather than using it until it's dead (or as close to possible) and then fully charging. The big thing to be aware of is that the damage caused is simply a reduced battery capacity and usually isn't big enough to notice during the life span of the phone (1 to 2 years).
5. Yes they do. Some of the claims may be a little higher than life experience, but nothing drastic. It litterally adds a second battery to your phone, so it IS going to extend the battery life quite noticeably.
One thing though, I have had my HTC One for a month or so now and have kept it stock, occassionally trying custom roms, but always going back. I have consistently been able to get over a full days use with WiFi always on, GPS always off, brightness always on auto, and I have exchange synced and set to push notifications. I am constantly checking email and texting for work as well as browsing the internet and Google Currents. I also have the power saver turned on. A full day use for me being from 8am to around 12am.
I think either something is wrong with your phone, you are playing too many games, or some setting or service is draining your battery. I would post your battery usage here for some to inspect. And it might be a good idea to uninstall the batter saver app, they usually don't make any huge dent on battery life that can't be done without the app, since most rely on a polling service that runs in the background and eat up battery life themselves. Just make sure your sync settings are reasonable (not every 5 minutes), turn off GPS and only turn it on when needed, don't turn on WiFi unless you need it, turn off 4G unless you need it (switch to CDMA only in mobile settings), enable eco mode (power saver that throttles CPU based on usage), and make sure brightness is set to auto or a medium to dim setting.
Sent from my HTCONE using xda app-developers app
ebbinger_413 said:
/snip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mostly right. I'll toss out though that cases have different current outputs-- the mophie cases will output at a high enough rate to cause a phone to register as being on AC. the i-Blason case charges at about a third of that rate, meaning that it'll trickle charge your phone/reduce power consumption rate, but it won't outright charge unless you're not using it.
JGress said:
So the battery life absolutely sucks on my One. If I start using it at 8am its dead by 5 pm. And that's just normal usage like surfing the web over WiFi, playing games (candy crush, dots, angry birds space,) maybe watching a few short videos over WiFi and the occasional text message. I have a battery saver app and I can see that it helps but I guess there's only so much it can do,Z so I want to get one of those cases that has an external battery built in. I have a few questions.
1. Does anyone here use one of these? Please give your input.
2. What's the best one? I've done a little research and found that the i-Blason and Mophie ones seem to be most popular. They're both a bit pricey.
3. How do they work? Does the phone just start directly using the external power after you switch it on, or does it just charge the internal battery?
4. Can these things have any kind of adverse effects on the internal battery from odd charging voltage or anything like that?
5. Do they actually extend your battery time as advertised? I'd be happy with getting two full days out of a single charge and some of these things are advertised as extending it by more that 1.5x. It seems like if the external battery is just charging the internal battery it would be a bit less efficient than if it were directly powering the phone. Does that make sense? It just seems like there couldn't possibly be a direct conversion of 2300 mAh from one battery to completely charge another 2300 mAh battery.
I hope that wasn't too confusing. Personally, I can't wait until lithium-sulfur batteries are in all our electronic devices (potentially 4x energy density.) Google it. Sounds promising.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. I've used one for about 2 days. I returned it. It works well and the Mophie definitely feels of high quality and feels great in hand. However it makes the sleek device very big and bulky.
2. I would recommend the Mophie purchased at your local corporate carrier store, reason being is that usually your carrier will offer a 1 yr warranty on a premium case like this. However if you break or it shows ridiculous wear and tear they wont. I cannot comment on I-Blason's warranty. Although I think the Mophie is perhaps more expensive. Some carrier offer discounts based on employer's of the account owner. So that might help get the case cheaper.
3. See comment below
4. Usually since they're molded directly to fit your device, most manufacturer's will accommodate the OEM's requirements. But the Mophie charges as fast as it would if you had plugged it into an AC charger.
5. This question is a bit more confusing for me to answer. All I can say is that if they advertise a 100% charge then that means they're matching the mAh capacity of the device. (Ex. phone model has a 2000mAh battery internal and the case advertises 100%, then that means the external battery is also rated at 2000mAh.) So in reality if you're expecting a complete 100% charge while your device is still on, then no, you may get from 1% up to 70-90% depending on how much you're using it while its charging.
ebbinger_413 said:
3. The phone will use the battery cases charge first then once that is drained use the phones internal battery. However if your phone battery isn't fully charged and you plug a charged case into it, it will charge the phone.
Sent from my HTCONE using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is not entirely true. Because the Mophie has an on/off switch. So if the case is set to off, it'll use the internal battery first, then you need to switch the battery case to on to begin charging the internal battery. It is entirely possible to use the phone till it completely shuts down when it run out of juice and the Mophie have a full charge.
It uses the same charger as the phone itself so the case never has to come off, however even if the switch is set to off it'll charge both items at the same time.
adamjamess said:
1. I've used one for about 2 days. I returned it. It works well and the Mophie definitely feels of high quality and feels great in hand. However it makes the sleek device very big and bulky.
2. I would recommend the Mophie purchased at your local corporate carrier store, reason being is that usually your carrier will offer a 1 yr warranty on a premium case like this. However if you break or it shows ridiculous wear and tear they wont. I cannot comment on I-Blason's warranty. Although I think the Mophie is perhaps more expensive. Some carrier offer discounts based on employer's of the account owner. So that might help get the case cheaper.
3. See comment below
4. Usually since they're molded directly to fit your device, most manufacturer's will accommodate the OEM's requirements. But the Mophie charges as fast as it would if you had plugged it into an AC charger.
5. This question is a bit more confusing for me to answer. All I can say is that if they advertise a 100% charge then that means they're matching the mAh capacity of the device. (Ex. phone model has a 2000mAh battery internal and the case advertises 100%, then that means the external battery is also rated at 2000mAh.) So in reality if you're expecting a complete 100% charge while your device is still on, then no, you may get from 1% up to 70-90% depending on how much you're using it while its charging.
This is not entirely true. Because the Mophie has an on/off switch. So if the case is set to off, it'll use the internal battery first, then you need to switch the battery case to on to begin charging the internal battery. It is entirely possible to use the phone till it completely shuts down when it run out of juice and the Mophie have a full charge.
It uses the same charger as the phone itself so the case never has to come off, however even if the switch is set to off it'll charge both items at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was not aware they had an on off switch, that would change the way the phone handles the device and give you a bit of flexability in how you use it, which is good.
Sent from my HTCONE using xda app-developers app
adamjamess said:
This is not entirely true. Because the Mophie has an on/off switch. So if the case is set to off, it'll use the internal battery first, then you need to switch the battery case to on to begin charging the internal battery. It is entirely possible to use the phone till it completely shuts down when it run out of juice and the Mophie have a full charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder if it would use the case battery first if you turned it on when both are 100% charged. Everywhere I've read, people seem to use them to charge the phone after the battery gets low. It would be great if the phone would just draw power from the case until it dies and flip over to the phone battery. I feel like that would keep the phone battery more healthy by avoiding inconsistent charging. If you're constantly killing the phone battery and using the case to recharge to less than 100%, then killing it again... it just seems like that would be bad for the battery.
Thanks everyone for the input! Keep it coming!
JGress said:
I wonder if it would use the case battery first if you turned it on when both are 100% charged. Everywhere I've read, people seem to use them to charge the phone after the battery gets low. It would be great if the phone would just draw power from the case until it dies and flip over to the phone battery. I feel like that would keep the phone battery more healthy by avoiding inconsistent charging. If you're constantly killing the phone battery and using the case to recharge to less than 100%, then killing it again... it just seems like that would be bad for the battery.
Thanks everyone for the input! Keep it coming!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good question. My thoughts would be that the phone would only draw enough to keep topped off. So I guess if the switch is left to the on position the whole time you would get the desired effect of draining the external pack first. But I would guess that doing that would reduce the efficiency of the case somehow.
In the end whether your constantly killing and charging your battery no matter to 90% or 100% with the case or A.C. charger, doing it more often will kill your battery either way. Given lithium ion batteries are way more forgiving than the old cadmium based ones that built up a memory of sorts.
Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk 2
To keep the battery healthy in a phone, make sure you charge to 100% each time. You don't need to fully drain battery, it's actually healthier to go from 50% to 100% than 1% to 100%.
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
pewpewbangbang said:
To keep the battery healthy in a phone, make sure you charge to 100% each time. You don't need to fully drain battery, it's actually healthier to go from 50% to 100% than 1% to 100%.
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So if my phone only gets down to about 40% each night before I plug it in to charge all night I'm ok? In the back of my head I'm always wondering if I need to drain it all the way sometime.
Philmize said:
So if my phone only gets down to about 40% each night before I plug it in to charge all night I'm ok? In the back of my head I'm always wondering if I need to drain it all the way sometime.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are fine, it's better to not drain the battery all the time. It lasts longer if there's charge left. You just have to make sure your fully charging to 100% and not charging only to 70% or something like that. This is how lithium batteries work in all devices, laptops etc...
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
And either way you wouldn't notice the loss in capacity until you at least 2-3 years out.
Sent from my HTCONE using xda app-developers app
So I've been thinking about this a lot over the past few days and I have something else i want to throw out there...
If you have your phone plugged in to a charger while at full charge, you can use it all you want and it will never go below %100. Does this mean that it's completely drawing power from the charger, or is it still drawing power from the battery, which is just constantly being topped off? Because I know I can completely remove the battery from my laptop and as long as it's plugged in to the charger, it will continue to function just fine.
If the phone is drawing 100% power from the charger, doesn't that mean that it would do the same for one of these battery extender cases?
Like I said before, I think that would be a lot more efficient that just using the case to recharge your phone's battery after it gets low. This way you sort of cut out the middle man.
BTW... I found that there was a weather app that I think was constantly trying to access my location even though I have location services turned off. I now get a good 10 hours of battery life with moderate usage. Still want a battery extender case. 2 full days would be awesome.
HTC battery life DOES suck compared what it can do because you are not going to buy a phone like this if you wont chat/text/call/email/play games alot. Mine lasts 10-15hours (usualy 2.5-3hours screen time and NEVER more than 3) and thats annoyng because its ok if im just ordinary home-work-home rezime but if i need to go out of the city for lets day 2-3 days - im screwed and allways must think about charging.
I have overlooked everything nothing wrong with the phone - the battery is just too small.
i keep wifi ,gps and bt off if i dont need them but my phone ofcourse syncs everything (thats the point of a smartphone - to be connected!) and i play often also.
JGress said:
So I've been thinking about this a lot over the past few days and I have something else i want to throw out there...
If you have your phone plugged in to a charger while at full charge, you can use it all you want and it will never go below %100. Does this mean that it's completely drawing power from the charger, or is it still drawing power from the battery, which is just constantly being topped off? Because I know I can completely remove the battery from my laptop and as long as it's plugged in to the charger, it will continue to function just fine.
If the phone is drawing 100% power from the charger, doesn't that mean that it would do the same for one of these battery extender cases?
Like I said before, I think that would be a lot more efficient that just using the case to recharge your phone's battery after it gets low. This way you sort of cut out the middle man.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope its being topped off, phones are all about maximizing space in the phone, it would require more wiring for the motherboard to be able to draw power directly from the micro usb port as well as the battery. For example, my Samsung phones can be plugged in but if I take the battery out the phone turns off.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using xda premium
I got this one - all day w/o charging w very heavy usage. Traveling w/o signal - 2-3 days no charge. Makes the phone bigger and you can't see the gorgeousness of the phone, but it protects it all around and it lets those 4 cores and crazy display to do its job w/o dying on you fast.
This guy sells them for $20. Have seen them in other sites for $70-130. Same exact model.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e1140...&exe=10013&ext=100025&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext
InterFace86 said:
HTC battery life DOES suck compared what it can do because you are not going to buy a phone like this if you wont chat/text/call/email/play games alot. Mine lasts 10-15hours (usualy 2.5-3hours screen time and NEVER more than 3) and thats annoyng because its ok if im just ordinary home-work-home rezime but if i need to go out of the city for lets day 2-3 days - im screwed and allways must think about charging.
I have overlooked everything nothing wrong with the phone - the battery is just too small.
i keep wifi ,gps and bt off if i dont need them but my phone ofcourse syncs everything (thats the point of a smartphone - to be connected!) and i play often also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You just don't know how to manage wakelocks. Do some reading. Mine lasts almost 2 days with 5 hours screen on time.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4
DELETE
1. I have the i-Blason black.
As a Case
Pros: Great volume controls, Black matches the black HTC One and the black earbud plug, kickstand, central USB plug.
Cons: Thick, Gets Warn when plugged in
3. There's a button that turns charging from the case on or off. Phone will be like it's externally charging.
4. The i-Blason is a lower current charging, so there's a warning that pops up. I think it's not harmful.
5. Extends, yes. But >1 day, no. Well, if you're not using the phone, yes, > 1day. What I do is I let it charge the phone when I'm not near a usb plug and it gets < 80%, then i let it trickle back to 100% in about an hour. It automatically stops charging the phone at 100%.
Learn how to manage your phone guys. Track down the offenders instead of buying these battery packs and other nonsense.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4