Need to take apart your LG Optimus G Pro to perform a screen repair? This step-by-step tutorial demonstrates how to properly disassemble your Optimus G Pro to all you to install the following replacement parts.
LG Optimus G Pro Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
LG Optimus G Pro LCD Screen Replacement
Recommended Repair Tools:
Safe Opening Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (Used for touch screen / screen assembly replacements)
Heat Gun/Hair Dryer (Used to warm and release adhesive)
Optimus G Pro Tear Down Guide:
Before you begin you must make sure to power off your device completely.
To start you will need to remove the back cover of the device as well as the battery, sim card, and Micro-SD card.
Next step you will need to remove the 14 Small Phillips Screws (#00) securing the back housing to the device.
Once those screws have been removed you can take your safe open pry tool to release the clips holding the back housing to the mid-frame. (work your way around the housing being careful not to break any of the clips)
Once the back housing has been removed you can now begin to release the 4 pop connectors and antenna cable as shown in the figure below.
You will also need to release the rear camera from the housing using your plastic pry tool (Be careful not to rip or tear the attached flex cable.)
See figure below for screw and flex cable locations.
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After all the appropriate connections have been released you can now carefully remove the motherboard from the device.
Be cautious as the motherboard is slightly fastened in the housing with a small clip that could potentially damaged the small and narrow portion of the motherboard.
See below figure for reference
Now that you have safely removed the motherboard you can now begin removing the last few necessary components to start the screen removal process.
First you will need to lift up the touch screen digitizer's flex cable and remove the ear speaker (both are held with a little adhesive)
Next you can take your plastic pry tool to gently pry up the lower USB port / soft key assembly and remove it from the device.
You will now be able to begin applying heat to the screen assembly to be able to remove the LCD and touch screen digitizer.
Using your heat source on a medium setting you will want to evenly apply heat to all outer edges of the screen for 30-45 second intervals.
Be cautious not to hover over and flex ribbons that you may need to reuse for re-assembly.
See below figure for reference
Notice: This LG Optimus G Pro repair guide is for informational and learning purposes only. Perform this repair at your own risk.
Thanks for the great tutorial!!!!
Just hope I never have to use it ;p
Sent from my LG-F240L using xda app-developers app
st1114g said:
Thanks for the great tutorial!!!!
Just hope I never have to use it ;p
Sent from my LG-F240L using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are very welcome!
Do you have to completely remove the rear camera? it looks like you just popped it out of the slot in the frame? Thanks again!
onestepshort said:
Do you have to completely remove the rear camera? it looks like you just popped it out of the slot in the frame? Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, just take your pry tool and gently lift it up from the right side. Just be careful not to tear the connector located on it's left.
repairsuniverse said:
Nope, just take your pry tool and gently lift it up from the right side. Just be careful not to tear the connector located on it's left.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool Thank!
Do you have to replace the digitizer as well? I am buying a G Pro with a cracked glass, but the digitizer and LCD still work. Is it possible to keep the digitizer intact, or will I have to replace both the glass and the digitizer? Thanks!
whereiszack said:
Do you have to replace the digitizer as well? I am buying a G Pro with a cracked glass, but the digitizer and LCD still work. Is it possible to keep the digitizer intact, or will I have to replace both the glass and the digitizer? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The "digitizer" and touch screen are the same. All of the keywords can be confusing at times I know. If the phone you are buying has cracked glass then you would need to replace the "touch screen digitizer" For example:
I got a question
On my screen attached what is in the yellow circle ?
On my phone is Not at the Same place of the photos and there's a hole on my case but not on the back panel of my phone
smaybe said:
I got a question
On my screen attached what is in the yellow circle ?
On my phone is Not at the Same place of the photos and there's a hole on my case but not on the back panel of my phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What exact model do you have? This repair guide is based off of the Optimus G Pro E980 and the circle you are referencing to is actually a water sensor. On the stock back cover this slot is not exposed.
Ok thanks
So it detect if the phone is in water and turn it off?
I've got a F240L
I want a Whtie G Pro like the international version but there is only Indigo Blue for AT&T.
Is it possible to remove the housing and swap out a White housing?
Droid>iOS said:
I want a Whtie G Pro like the international version but there is only Indigo Blue for AT&T.
Is it possible to remove the housing and swap out a White housing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's the white glass/digitizer, but I don't think it comes with a white button. : http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-Touch-Screen-Glass-Digitizer-Lens-Replacement-For-LG-Optimus-G-Pro-F240-/271205745780?pt=US_Cell_Phone_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item3f251f4474
I can't find any white back panels though.
lemon E980
okay, here's the thing.
I bought a E980 like two weeks ago from EBay (i'm located outside US and wanted this phone so bad)
Three days ago i noticed touching the external soft keys were not "noticed" by the phone, but i could live with it.
Every night incrementally the phone would stop responding to inputs like half an inch from the bottom to the top.
Like:
1st day -> no soft keys
2nd day -> no soft keys + a little bit of the screen
3rd day -> no soft keys + about 1 inch on the bottom of the screen
i have tried factory resetting and everything (as the screen/glass is not cracked) and i know for sure i have not let it fall or bump on anything.
Does this sound like i got the lemon, or just bad software?
I mean, i think the digitizer would stop working all at once, not every night it'd "advance" towards the top.
Please help me on this one.
Btw, Optimus G Pro E980.
chlhec said:
okay, here's the thing.
I bought a E980 like two weeks ago from EBay (i'm located outside US and wanted this phone so bad)
Three days ago i noticed touching the external soft keys were not "noticed" by the phone, but i could live with it.
Every night incrementally the phone would stop responding to inputs like half an inch from the bottom to the top.
Like:
1st day -> no soft keys
2nd day -> no soft keys + a little bit of the screen
3rd day -> no soft keys + about 1 inch on the bottom of the screen
i have tried factory resetting and everything (as the screen/glass is not cracked) and i know for sure i have not let it fall or bump on anything.
Does this sound like i got the lemon, or just bad software?
I mean, i think the digitizer would stop working all at once, not every night it'd "advance" towards the top.
Please help me on this one.
Btw, Optimus G Pro E980.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Call LG USA its still should be under warranty. Just an Idea
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using xda premium
Folks,
It appears there is some water damage on an LG G Pro I have. My son had been using it and one morning it would not turn on. The water sensor at the top was red and there was some condensation on the camera lens and the top corners of the screen. The water sensor on the battery is white, so I think the water damage was only at the top of the device. So I dropped it in a bag of rice for 48 hours. This has worked a couple times on previous phones, but did not this time.
The condensation is gone but the phone will not turn on at all. Nothing when I connect it to the charger or PC. Any ideas one what I can do to resurrect this phone, or maybe parts to replace?
Any thoughts would be appreciated!
madgalaxy said:
Folks,
It appears there is some water damage on an LG G Pro I have. My son had been using it and one morning it would not turn on. The water sensor at the top was red and there was some condensation on the camera lens and the top corners of the screen. The water sensor on the battery is white, so I think the water damage was only at the top of the device. So I dropped it in a bag of rice for 48 hours. This has worked a couple times on previous phones, but did not this time.
The condensation is gone but the phone will not turn on at all. Nothing when I connect it to the charger or PC. Any ideas one what I can do to resurrect this phone, or maybe parts to replace?
Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Water damage can be tricky to diagnose. You may have to dis-assemble the device and check the connections and other components for signs of corrosion. Sometimes you are able to clean up these areas with 91% alcohol (or higher) and a q-tip.
You wont be able to tell until you open up the device. Is there any signs of functionality at all? System sounds, vibration etc?
repairsuniverse said:
Water damage can be tricky to diagnose. You may have to dis-assemble the device and check the connections and other components for signs of corrosion. Sometimes you are able to clean up these areas with 91% alcohol (or higher) and a q-tip.
You wont be able to tell until you open up the device. Is there any signs of functionality at all? System sounds, vibration etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are no sounds, vibrations or lights. Zero. I took it apart and could not see any noticeable corrosion. I did clean all the connections with alcohol. Gonna let it sit overnight and put it back together and see what happens.
Thank you for this tutorial! Hope I never have to use it but if I do I know where to look.
madgalaxy said:
There are no sounds, vibrations or lights. Zero. I took it apart and could not see any noticeable corrosion. I did clean all the connections with alcohol. Gonna let it sit overnight and put it back together and see what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah sometimes it's a hit and miss. You might want to check to see if your battery has gone bad from the water damage before you determine it could be a brick.
Related
Does your outer touchscreen digitizer have been damaged or cracked? This writtien take apart repair guide shows how to disassemble your HTC Desire cell phone quickly and safely.
This guide will help you to install the following HTC Desire part(s):
HTC Desire Glass Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
HTC Desire Take apart guide:
First of all remove the back cover of the phone using safe open pry tool. Remove the micro SD card and the battery from the phone as well.
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Figure 1
Remove the two void stickers from the locations A and B highlighted with cyan color in figure 1.
You will now need to unscrew three screws at the locations 1, 2 and 3 indicated in figure 1 by orange circles.
Pry up the back-bottom cover using safe open pry tool. The cover is highlighted with gray color in the figure 1 and an orange arrow points to a convenient location to start prying with.
You can now remove the back chassis which includes the battery compartment. To remove it you will need to pry it up using a safe open pry tool.
Figure 2
Remove two more screws at the locations indicated in figure 2 by small circles 1 and 2.
Disconnect the antenna plug from the location A indicated in the figure 2.
Now carefully lift the camera PCB and remove the ‘Power’ button.
You will now need to disconnect three cable connectors from locations B, C and D shown in figure 2. Carefully lift up the connectors using safe open pry tool to unplug.
After unplugging the connectors you can now lift up and remove the camera PCB and primary PCB from the phone assembly. Remove it and put it aside.
The next step is to remove the ‘Volume’ button from the unit.
Once you have removed the ‘Volume’ button carefully loosen up the AMOLED and the keyboard assembly out of the chassis using safe open pry tool but do not remove these from the unit.
Figure 3
Now lift up and remove the keyboard assembly. Note that you will have to peel off the part of keyboard assembly that is glued at the back of AMOLED. The location of keyboard assembly is shown in gray color in the figure 3.
The removal of the keyboard assembly from the unit will expose the keyboard’s key-caps. Pry up and remove the key-caps as well.
Peel the touch screen PCB assembly off the back of the AMOLED. Its location is highlighted by yellow colored area in figure 3.
The AMOLED should now be free to remove. Remove it and put it aside.
Figure 4
Now in order to remove the touch screen digitizer from the phone chassis you will first need to peel off a sticky tape which connects the touch screen to the chassis. Then insert safe open pry tool in the edge between the chassis and digitizer from the back (as indicated by the arrows in figure 4), and pry up the digitizer. The digitizer will be adhered to the chassis and it will require a little bit of effort to separate the digitizer from the chassis. Note that once you have taken the digitizer out of the chassis you will need to remove the insulator from its flex cable and then run the flex cable from the gap in the chassis to separate it completely from the chassis (you may have to rotate the digitizer to let the flex cable run through the gap easily).
The HTC Desire is now disassembled and you can now replace the damaged part(s) with new ones. Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.
Great guide! Thanks for sharing.
With the reassembly, your instructions say that the digitizer is glued to the chassis upon removal, will it need any special glues when replacing the new part??
777ace said:
Great guide! Thanks for sharing.
With the reassembly, your instructions say that the digitizer is glued to the chassis upon removal, will it need any special glues when replacing the new part??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. We always use new adhesive to ensure a secure bond. We recommend adhesive strips such as these here - Adhesive Strips
This adhesive is the correct thickness and won't damage the touch screen like super glue etc can.
repairsuniverse said:
[*]Disconnect the antenna plug from the location A indicated in the figure 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suggest that you don't do this unless you absolutely have to. The GPS antenna is notoriously flimsy (mine broke just in the force of me removing it) and in fact they are not designed to be disconnected more than a few times - many users report that the board connector will often come away with very little force.
You certainly don't need to disconnect the GPS antenna to get to the screen - just remove the component parts with it still attached.
A video guide would be much more informative also, or at least a video to go with the written tutorial where you follow your own steps.
Video
Well I can't post external links yet but if you youtube "HTC Desire Disassembly Video" you will find the video straight from HTC on how to take it apart.
Great video, I used it to replace the earpiece on my desire.
I'm about to do this on a CDMA Desire (ADR6275) and just wanted to confirm that a digitizer that claims to be for an A8181 (or A8182 or A8183) will work. I've read threads where people replaced a digitizer that fit and looked correct, but some functions didn't work because it wasn't exactly the right part number.
If I get an ebay digitizer for an A8181, will it drop right in the ADR6275?
Thanks.
theophile2 said:
I'm about to do this on a CDMA Desire (ADR6275) and just wanted to confirm that a digitizer that claims to be for an A8181 (or A8182 or A8183) will work. I've read threads where people replaced a digitizer that fit and looked correct, but some functions didn't work because it wasn't exactly the right part number.
If I get an ebay digitizer for an A8181, will it drop right in the ADR6275?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen you need for you device can be found here - HTC Desire Touch Screen Digitizer
It is 100% compatible with that model.
A downloadable version of this Desire repair guide can be found here - it is a great way to print out the step-by-step process, allowing you to preform repairs.
Marsbar said:
I would suggest that you don't do this unless you absolutely have to. The GPS antenna is notoriously flimsy (mine broke just in the force of me removing it) and in fact they are not designed to be disconnected more than a few times - many users report that the board connector will often come away with very little force.
You certainly don't need to disconnect the GPS antenna to get to the screen - just remove the component parts with it still attached.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The same prob happend with me, but I was trolling with the antenna. So this is what I did: I've got an old motorola L6, and I disassembled it *for the 564-th time * and took out its antenna. Molded, bent and trimmed it a bit, and put it in my desire. It works fine, and seem to notice a slight better signal
If only part of the touch screen in unresponsive, would replacing the whole thing fix the problem?
Jadewaur said:
If only part of the touch screen in unresponsive, would replacing the whole thing fix the problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably. But first check if the cable is properly attached.
Do you carry the LCD Screen replacement for this device?
amith12 said:
Do you carry the LCD Screen replacement for this device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We sure do. Click the link in my signature to go to our website to order.
LCD vs touch screen
Ok I am sort of stuck so I would appreciate any help on this. I bought a touch screen for replacement, but as soon as I opened the back cover I realized my phone doesn't look like what's on this guide. I have a HTC Desire C. I was able to search Youtube and found a video with directions to disassemble Desire C all the way down to the touch screen. However, the guy in the video is trying to replace the piece that's black in color, just before the touch screen (which I assume is the LCD), then this question occurred to me: if only part of the touch screen of my phone is unresponsive, how do I figure out if the problem is with the touch screen or the LCD? Thank you.
---------- Post added at 08:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:55 PM ----------
Ok I sort of answered my own question. The screen display is ok, so based on that the LCD should be fine. Regarding the adhesive tape for Desire C, Amazon sells some generic adhesive tape 2mm in width, does anybody know if that's workable?
Jadewaur said:
Ok I am sort of stuck so I would appreciate any help on this. I bought a touch screen for replacement, but as soon as I opened the back cover I realized my phone doesn't look like what's on this guide. I have a HTC Desire C. I was able to search Youtube and found a video with directions to disassemble Desire C all the way down to the touch screen. However, the guy in the video is trying to replace the piece that's black in color, just before the touch screen (which I assume is the LCD), then this question occurred to me: if only part of the touch screen of my phone is unresponsive, how do I figure out if the problem is with the touch screen or the LCD? Thank you.
---------- Post added at 08:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:55 PM ----------
Ok I sort of answered my own question. The screen display is ok, so based on that the LCD should be fine. Regarding the adhesive tape for Desire C, Amazon sells some generic adhesive tape 2mm in width, does anybody know if that's workable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that should work, but if that adhesive isn't adequate we also sell the proper adhesive that will help with your repair. A link to our site can be found in our signature below.
HTC Desire tear-down and re-assembly
I dont know if anybody want this but if you want pictures here you are:
HTC Desire tear-down and re-assembly
Hope i provided some help..!
Alexcyan said:
I dont know if anybody want this but if you want pictures here you are:
HTC Desire tear-down and re-assembly
Hope i provided some help..!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Should definitely help some people.
I just got finished replacing my top screen on my HTC Desire 510, when I turn the phone on, I can hear it turn on but the screen stays black, any idea what could be wrong? I've checked the cable connections. Other than a shattered top screen it worked fine before. Is there anyway to check the screen itself, to make sure I didn't receive a bad one? I was careful changing it, and didn't run into any problems doing so. Thanks
Ripela1 said:
I just got finished replacing my top screen on my HTC Desire 510, when I turn the phone on, I can hear it turn on but the screen stays black, any idea what could be wrong? I've checked the cable connections. Other than a shattered top screen it worked fine before. Is there anyway to check the screen itself, to make sure I didn't receive a bad one? I was careful changing it, and didn't run into any problems doing so. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is desire bravo not 510.
RepairsUniverse compiled a written repair guide to repair a damaged screen or other internal components on your HTC One X. This detailed take apart guide will walk you through each step on how to disassemble and replace the damaged parts on your One X.
This guide will help you to install the following HTC One X part(s):
HTC One X Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
HTC One X LCD Screen Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (for touch screen repair)
Hot Air Gun / Hair Dryer
HTC One X Repair Guide:
First, use a safe open pry tool to begin releasing the back housing. Start at the bottom of the device and work your way around the edges, applying pressure to pop the case off. With all 3 sides released you can pull the device from the back cover. Be cautious as the battery is often adhered to the housing and will need to be removed with the rest of the device.
Once the back cover had been removed, we can now remove the small plastic housing located near the camera. Used Small Phillips screwdriver then remove the five (5) screws shown in red on figure 1.
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Figure 1
There will be one (1) more small Phillips screws that will be located at the bottom of the motherboard, near the battery, that will need to be removed.
Start releasing all the connections located on the motherboard. Release the single pop connector and jaw connector located on the top of the motherboard (shown in orange in figure 1).
Release the power button flex cable and volume button flex cable from the housing. These will be lightly adhered to the housing (shown in green in figure 1).
You can now lightly lift the motherboard up, being careful as it is still attached with flex cables. The battery can also be swung out, revealing two (2) more connection on the skinny part of the motherboard. Release these two connections and remove the motherboard and battery from the device (shown in figure 2).
Figure 2
Use a heat gun or hair dryer to start warming the front of the screen assembly. Work around the outside edges of the screen on medium heat for about 45 seconds. This will soften the adhesive holding the screen assembly to the housing.
Once the screen is properly heated you can use a safe open pry tool to being lifting the screen assembly away from the housing. Be sure to lift both screens out at the same time.
After the screens are partially released, be sure the flex cables are fed through the housing. Remove the screen assembly.
Use the heat gun or hair dryer again to warm the seal between the touch screen and LCD screen. Use quick movements for about 30 seconds. Once this is complete, use a safe open pry tool to carefully separate the screens.
You can now replace the touch screen digitizer or LCD screen.
Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.
Thank for great tutorial
I hope that I will ever need it, but very useful
Was it proved that the digitizer can be safely removed from the LCD without messing it up? As I watched a video on YouTube, the guy ruined his LCD screen in the process....i have a broken digitizer and I'm not willing to buy digitizer+LCD for $150 while my LCD is working fine....i hope you can tell me if changing the digitizer alone is possible.
Thank you!
Yes this is possible. These screens are not fused together but held by adhesive. You will need to apply heat on the front touchscreen too loosen the adhesive. Good luck with the repair.
What about dust particles and finger prints ? is it true that there is no air in between digitizer and lcd ?
Raider0001 said:
What about dust particles and finger prints ? is it true that there is no air in between digitizer and lcd ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You use adhesive strips between the LCD and the digitizer. This stops dust getting in.
This guide is less useful
Absolutely necessary
Thank you
hi,
My LCD is not broken, only the glass... but I'm afraid to separate the glass of the LCD.
I read so many message that said they broke the LCD.
should it be difficult to separate when the glass is "hot" ?
Thank you
Phil
I don't think it is possible to separate lcd and glass
after doing some extensive research I finally committed myself to try to separate the lcd and the broken glass
the result: I ripped the lcd's layers apart, just as the experienced service guy did here too at 26:53
youtu.be/H5TRf0REyMM
I believe it is not possible to separate the factory assembled (broken) digitizer glass from the LCD screen
the topmost layer of the LCD is glued so heavily to the glass, that even if you heat it very carefully the other layers will separate sooner (thus breaking the black tape holding together the lcd layers) then the lcd would separate from the glass
I was able to find only one video on YouTube which shows a successful separation of the lcd and the glass:
youtu.be/aknwDBR0IIA
but!
imho this is not a factory assembled unit or at least the sticker tape holding together the glass and the screen is different on my unit, it doesn't have anything like the white tapes seen at 6:52 on the glass
the only reason why you can buy separate touch digitizer glass at all, is to glue it together with a brand new lcd, but there is no way to recover your lcd from a phone, however unharmed it is
halcy0n said:
after doing some extensive research I finally committed myself to try to separate the lcd and the broken glass
the result: I ripped the lcd's layers apart, just as the experienced service guy did here too at 26:53
youtu.be/H5TRf0REyMM
I believe it is not possible to separate the factory assembled (broken) digitizer glass from the LCD screen
the topmost layer of the LCD is glued so heavily to the glass, that even if you heat it very carefully the other layers will separate sooner (thus breaking the black tape holding together the lcd layers) then the lcd would separate from the glass
I was able to find only one video on YouTube which shows a successful separation of the lcd and the glass:
youtu.be/aknwDBR0IIA
but!
imho this is not a factory assembled unit or at least the sticker tape holding together the glass and the screen is different on my unit, it doesn't have anything like the white tapes seen at 6:52 on the glass
the only reason why you can buy separate touch digitizer glass at all, is to glue it together with a brand new lcd, but there is no way to recover your lcd from a phone, however unharmed it is
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot!!!!!!!!
i have no more thanks to use. your post was very helpful indeed. i stick my voice to yours, the LCD can't be taken apart from the digitzer. i tried and failed. just like the guy in the video and your case as well.
Awesome work !!! Thanks bro
You will find it near impossible to split the display from digitizer the screen is laminated to it via some very strong glue even heating the screen could damage the display they don't take kindly to excessive heat so it will be very slim doing so and succeeding without any damage
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app
dryan433 said:
You will find it near impossible to split the display from digitizer the screen is laminated to it via some very strong glue even heating the screen could damage the display they don't take kindly to excessive heat so it will be very slim doing so and succeeding without any damage
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is hard to separate on this model. We actually recommend the full screen replacement so you can avoid this altogether. You can find this here - HTC One X LCD + Touch Screen Replacement
repairsuniverse said:
It is hard to separate on this model. We actually recommend the full screen replacement so you can avoid this altogether.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm wondering if it's hard or impossible to separate them?
My Touch panel was broken, and even if the technical service didn't want to, they changed the lcd also. even the technical service workers couldn't manage to separate the two.
/2cents
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
SoulSmasher said:
My Touch panel was broken, and even if the technical service didn't want to, they changed the lcd also. even the technical service workers couldn't manage to separate the two.
/2cents
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not very easy to separate the 2. This is why we recommend the full screen replacement - HTC One X Touch Screen + LCD replacement
repairsuniverse said:
It's not very easy to separate the 2. This is why we recommend the full screen replacement - TC One X Touch Screen + LCD replacement
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I found it pretty easy to seperate the two. I just placed the nail of my thumb between the lcd and digitizer and went around the whole screen. Took it apart without any problems.
You can buy new LCD/ digitiser combined for not a lot more then just the digitiser, also if you get the two already joined there will be less dust in between the screen and LCD then if you yourself did it.... knowing my luck I would drop the thing on the floor before I stuck they together lol
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
I get a replacement lcd assembly is returned it because don't have the captive button light difuser. If somebody here find a full assembly replacement with the captive button light difuser please let's know.
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk 2
May I have the service manual of HTC ONE X? Please help!
May I have the service manual of HTC ONE X?
Please help!
Has your Samsung Galaxy Note 8.0 dropped to the ground and now you need to replace the LCD or Touch Screen Digitizer? This tear down tutorial will assist you when needing to replace the following parts in your Galaxy Note 8.0 N5110 such as:
Samsung Galaxy Note 8.0 Touch Screen Digitizer
Samsung Galaxy Note 8.0 LCD Screen
Other internal components
Recommended Repair Tools:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver (#00)
Adhesive Strips (required for screen replacements)
Heat Gun / Hair Dryer (required to warm and loosen adhesive)
Galaxy Note 8.0 N5110 Take Apart Guide:
Before you begin you will need to fully power off your device and remove the stylus pen.
Taking your safe open pry tool gently pry in between the seam of the back cover and the housing applying even pressure along all sides of the cover to release the clips holding it in place.
After the back cover has been removed you can now take your Small Phillips Screwdriver and remove the (8) screws circled in the figure below.
This will allow you to gently pry up the battery and release its connection shown below to fully remove it from your device.
See figure below for battery connector and screw locations.
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Next we can begin working at the top of the device.
You will need to take your Small Phillips Screwdriver and remove the (3) screws circled in the figure below.
Next taking your plastic pry tool you will need to gently release (5) these connections.
See figure below for connection and screw locations.
Next we can start working on the lower half of the device.
Taking your Small Phillips Screwdriver you will need to remove (7) more screws circled in the figure below.
With these screws removed you can now take your plastic pry tool and gently release the (6) connections below.
Note: The connection highlighted in yellow has a metal plate covering the connector. You will need to pry up this metal plate to expose the connection.
Next you can take your plastic pry tool and gently lift up and remove the (2) loud speakers at the bottom of the device.
See figure below for connection and screw locations.
Now that these screws and connections are released you can now begin removing the motherboard and other internal components.
Taking your plastic pry tool gently pry up towards the bottom of the motherboard to allow you to lift it out of the housing. (Use extreme care when handling the motherboard)
Next you can take your pry tool you can gently pry up and remove the headphone jack and front camera.
Now you will want to remove the microphone and button flex cable assembly. Gently pry up the ribbon starting from the top and slowly peel your way down towards the bottom. This flex ribbon is held on by some adhesive so you will want to use extreme caution not to rip or tear this cable.
See figure below for reference.
Now you will want to remove the vibration motor and memory card reader assembly.
These two components are connected with a very small flex ribbon cable. You will want to use extreme caution not to rip or tear this cable.
Taking your plastic pry tool and first pry up the memory card slot.
Next you will have to pry up the vibration motor from the inner housing (it is held down with adhesive.)
You may find when attempting to remove the vibration motor that using a small flat head screwdriver or other type of metal pry tool will help release it from the adhesive holding it in place. (Again use extreme care when attempting this.)
Next you will need to remove one last flex cable by taking your plastic pry tool and lifting up the tab on the jaw connector allowing you to remove it from the device completely.
See figure below for reference.
Next you are able to flip over your device and begin heating up the screen assembly.
You will want to take your heat source on a medium setting roughly 3-4 inches away from the screen.
Be sure to evenly apply heat to all outer edges of the screen to loosen up the adhesive holding the screen in place.
Notice: This guide is for informational and learning purposes only. Perform these procedures and repair at your own risk.
Is there a way to replace just the digitizer without completely disassembling the device? And ... do you know where I can get one for a while N5110?
car vs driver said:
Is there a way to replace just the digitizer without completely disassembling the device? And ... do you know where I can get one for a while N5110?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You would definitely have to disassemble the device to get to the flex cable to disconnect it.
This is great!
So it shouldn't be too difficult to replace the battery in a year or two.
Anyone know where replacement batteries can be found?
I must say, the non-removable battery is my biggest gripe with this tablet.
Where can you get a screen?
So now that we know HOW to replace a broken screen, does anyone know WHERE to buy a new screen and digitizer?
Samsung wants $298 to send it in for repair.
The Juggler said:
So now that we know HOW to replace a broken screen, does anyone know WHERE to buy a new screen and digitizer?
Samsung wants $298 to send it in for repair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh.. yeah. The same guy that posted this thread sells them.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using xda premium
car vs driver said:
Uh.. yeah. The same guy that posted this thread sells them.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent. Thanks. Do you happen to know if the GT-N5110 screen the same as the SGH-I467?
car vs driver said:
Uh.. yeah. The same guy that posted this thread sells them.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for helping us out.
repairsuniverse said:
Thanks for helping us out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, your tutorial and also your video on youtube doesn't show how to disasembly the lcd screen from the digitizer.
When I tried to disassemble it came with the LCD, but non full LCD because the bottom of LCD is glued onto the LCD plate holder.
It's built like the samsung Galaxy S2.
For me it's quite impossible to disassemble without breaking the LCD.
Am I wrong?
Did somebody manage to change only the digitizer?
Lilian63 said:
Hi, your tutorial and also your video on youtube doesn't show how to disasembly the lcd screen from the digitizer.
When I tried to disassemble it came with the LCD, but non full LCD because the bottom of LCD is glued onto the LCD plate holder.
It's built like the samsung Galaxy S2.
For me it's quite impossible to disassemble without breaking the LCD.
Am I wrong?
Did somebody manage to change only the digitizer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was wrong, the LCD is not much glued to the bezel but it's firmly glued with epoxy glue to the digitizer.
It's definitly quite impossible to change only the digitizer.
Once again with samsung, good stuff but be very careful cause if you drop it, it's dead.
The complete LCD assembly is about 230$.
Screen replacement means full LCD screen replacement
As you can see below, digitizer is fully glued to LCD screen, plus epoxy glue pods in the corners.
Lilian63 said:
Once again with samsung, good stuff but be very careful cause if you drop it, it's dead.
The complete LCD assembly is about 230$.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I just got a call from samsung service that I need LCD as well as Mother Board replaced and then some small Parts apparently for some liquid clogged damage that I am not at all aware of, All i know is 1/3rd of my screen went dark.
It'll cost me arm and a leg as warranty does not cover that. imo Dropping it is not the only thing one should worry about when there are other factors at play, family, pets, rain luck and who knows what..
A Question
Do you happen to know if the GT-N5110 screen the same as the SGH-I467?
As far as I know they are different.
Hacked it? Walk thru?
Have anyone successfully change parts or swap parts from i467 to N5100/N5120 to access and use phone calls? Or maybe teach me how to change my imei number to trick carrier into thinking this is a phone cuz I hate to have it stuck with only Tablet data only!!
repairsuniverse said:
As far as I know they are different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Question
repairsuniverse said:
As far as I know they are different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a Samsung N5120 with a shattered LCD+Digitizer, can RepairUniverse help? in repairing it. The tablet turns on, charges, hear Samsung booting sound etc - everything is working but the screen is badly busted
fadejare said:
I have a Samsung N5120 with a shattered LCD+Digitizer, can RepairUniverse help? in repairing it. The tablet turns on, charges, hear Samsung booting sound etc - everything is working but the screen is badly busted
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The LCD and digitizer are two seperate parts - are they both broken? Either way, the replacement procedure is basically the same. Just order the parts and follow the instructions on the youtube video and/or this thread to repair it.
Seems intimidating, but it's pretty easy and shouldn't take you more than 30-45 minutes if you are well prepared.
Samsung Galaxy Note 8.0 Screen Replacement
May be I my request is not clear, I want information (Real Ones) on where to get the complete assembly so I can get it repaired or for a repair shop like yours to tell me what it will cost to repair it. Sorry for the delay in replying I just lost hope after so many weeks of nothing.
Does anyone know where to buy the full LCD+digitizer and front glass? Recently broke the LCD on my Note 8 and from what I read, replacing the whole lot would be easier than trying to separate the digitizer and glass from the LCD.
Acerlyte said:
Does anyone know where to buy the full LCD+digitizer and front glass? Recently broke the LCD on my Note 8 and from what I read, replacing the whole lot would be easier than trying to separate the digitizer and glass from the LCD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is incorrect. You have to remove the digitizer to get to the LCD, then the LCD requires additional steps to remove once you have the digitizer off.
The hardest (if you can call it that) part is carefully heating up the outer edges of the device to loosen up the glue that holds the digitizer in place.
The helpful techs at Repairs Universe have put together this screen repair guide for the HTC Windows Phone 8S. This take apart guide will help walk you through all of the necessary steps to safely disassemble your Windows Phone 8S to perform repairs such as a replacing a cracked or broken screen or even internal components that may have stopped working.
This repair guide will help you install the following Windows Phone 8S parts:
Windows Phone 8S Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Windows Phone 8S LCD Screen Replacement
Windows Phone 8S LCD + Touch Screen Assembly
Recommended Repair Tools:
Small Phillips Screwdriver (#00)
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips
Safe Open Pry Tool
Spudger Opening Tool
Heat Gun or Blow dryer
How to fix a Windows Phone 8S (Step-by-Step Tutorial) :
Before you begin make sure you fully power off your device.
Next take your pry tool or fingernail and remove the bottom back cover. From here you will need to remove your sim card and/or micro SD card.
With this cover removed you can take your Torx T5 screwdriver and remove the two (2) screws circled in the figure shown below.
Now taking your safe open pry tool start prying off the back housing by releasing the clips holding it in place. (Be careful not to damage or break these clips.)
See figure below for reference:
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With the back housing removed you can now remove the six (6) Small Phillips (#00) screws circled in the figure below.
Please note that the screws circled in BLUE are a different size from the screws circled in RED.
There will also be a small black protective cover that can be removed with the screws circled in BLUE.
See figure below for screw locations:
Now with the screws removed you want to lift out the battery and fold it over to the side where the flex cable is still connected.
You can now remove the black housing covering its connection.
Now taking your pry tool gently release the battery connection and remove it from the device.
See figure below for reference:
Now taking your pry tool you will need to gently peel up the three components from the housing highlighted in GREEN in the figure below. These are the volume buttons, vibrator motor and power button.
Be cautious not to rip or tear their connections. You will only need to release them from the housing in order to remove the motherboard. (The volume and power buttons are held down with a little adhesive, the vibrator motor has it's own nest in the housing.)
You will also need to remove the protective tape covering the connections highlighted in BLUE in the figure below. Then use your pry tool to safely release their jaw-bone connections.
With these components now freed from the housing you can now safely pry up and lift out the motherboard. (Use caution when handling the motherboard.)
Next you will want to remove the protective tape covering the mid-frame and the back of the LCD screen from the slots in the housing. (Highlighted in RED in the figure below)
You now will want to gently peel up the ribbon cable(s) pointed out with red arrows in the figure below. These arrows point in the direction to which you will want to peel these cables from the housing. (Use caution not to rip or tear these flex ribbon cables.)
You will also need to take your spudger and gently lift up the copper colored film from the back of the LCD screen to be able to remove it from the housing without any issues.
See figure below for reference:
To proceed you will need to take your heat source and apply heat to the front and back of the mid-frame and screen assembly.
A medium heat setting hovering roughly 3-4 inches away from the device is ideal. Evenly heat these areas for roughly 30-45 second intervals. (Be cautious not to hover over any flex cables you may not want to damage.)
The adhesive holding the back of the LCD to the mid-frame is quite strong. You will need to apply enough heat to the back of the frame to loosen this adhesive enough to remove the screen assembly.
See figure below for reference:
With the screen and mid-frame properly heated you can begin prying the LCD + digitizer assembly starting from the back of the mid-frame.
We found that using a spudger opening tool is ideal to get between the LCD and this mid-frame. Insert the chisel end of your spudger through these slots in the frame as demonstrated in the figure below.
While attempting to remove the screen assembly from the mid-frame insert your spudger in a slot in the housing and use a second pry tool to work around the edges of the screen. The spudger will give you enough space for extra prying leverage and keep the LCD from re-adhering to the adhesive on the frame.
Once enough of the adhesive is releasing the screen assembly you should be able to remove the screen assembly completely from the mid-frame.
Be cautious of the flex cables when sliding them through the slots in the housing.
See figure below for reference:
Notice: Repairs Universe's repair guides are for informational and learning purposes only. Anyone attempting to repair their device should do so at your own risk.
Speaker
You guys rock! Helping me do a bunch of repairs for my customers but I wanted to know if the ear speaker from the WP8X will fit the WP8S....Glad to be the first to post also!
One question. Do I need to follow this guide to replace the digitizer and do I need to remove the screen if I want to replace it ? And also, do you void warranty if you open just the backside?
Here is the link(that you know what i mean): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-pa...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item2ec9d7a01d
Thanks!
Is there a way to only replace the digitizer?
dna² said:
Is there a way to only replace the digitizer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try but the LCD is bonded to the touch screen in a way that makes it very difficult. I'd suggest using a full screen assembly.
repairsuniverse said:
You can try but the LCD is bonded to the touch screen in a way that makes it very difficult. I'd suggest using a full screen assembly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a digitizer and will try to carefully replace the original one that is totally shattered right now. At the moment i use the screen with tape on it, becuase bits of the screen are falling off. I will try to report back after i failed or succeeded, but that will take some time(just ordered the digitizer). Maybe i will post some before/after pics. :fingers-crossed:
dna² said:
I bought a digitizer and will try to carefully replace the original one that is totally shattered right now. At the moment i use the screen with tape on it, becuase bits of the screen are falling off. I will try to report back after i failed or succeeded, but that will take some time(just ordered the digitizer). Maybe i will post some before/after pics. :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, please do!
Hey,
is the internal storage also a micro-SD? Do you know if it's possible to replace the storage with a bigger sd-card?
dexter morgan said:
Hey,
is the internal storage also a micro-SD? Do you know if it's possible to replace the storage with a bigger sd-card?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has an easy to reach mirco sd slot right next to the simcard slot.
dna² said:
It has an easy to reach mirco sd slot right next to the simcard slot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm, i also guess that it has an easy to reach touchscreen display on the front of the phone...
I just wanted to ask u guys (specially the guys/or girls/ who disassembled the phone) if there's any possibility to change the internal storage...for example it was possible with my old HTC HD7...but found out that the internal storage is fixed with the board
dexter morgan said:
hmm, i also guess that it has an easy to reach touchscreen display on the front of the phone...
I just wanted to ask u guys (specially the guys/or girls/ who disassembled the phone) if there's any possibility to change the internal storage...for example it was possible with my old HTC HD7...but found out that the internal storage is fixed with the board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have to wait for the digitizer before i open it up, but my guess is it's fixed to the board somewhere or is it really that common to have 2 SD slots?
Edit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHGZnMUk6KA i couldn't see any removable SD card, but maybe it's behind of one of those covers on the mainboard?
would be great if you could post some photos if you see the slot... must soldered into the board but maybe with some skilful hands it's possible to change...
What i am propaply going to try or at least something similar:
eheheh said:
well it isnt fake that the digitizer cant be separated from the lcd!!!!
this is bull**** myth!!! of course that technicians and in the stores tell you that isnt possible, more easy for them, and they make more money!!!!
this pics were taken from a spanish mobiles forum, his nickname samsungnia
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was posted in the Motorola Droid RAZR forum here on xda.
I like this technique, thanks for posting!
I did it! I got the Digitizer off. Too bad the new digitizer isn't here yet :/
I accidently cut the navigation flex cable damn.
DNA89 said:
I did it! I got the Digitizer off. Too bad the new digitizer isn't here yet :/
I accidently cut the navigation flex cable damn.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, congrats! Looks like that wasn't too easy, but that's awesome.
Yeah it took me a while, now i need to remove the rest of the glue and wait for the digitizer and the flex cable replacement.
dexter morgan said:
would be great if you could post some photos if you see the slot... must soldered into the board but maybe with some skilful hands it's possible to change...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There realy is no slot for a internal sd card. All important motherboard components where hidden behind a metal cover.
Progress: I removed all the adhesive left on the lcd with a adhesive remover. It works great, but now i see that i should have used that motorola digitizer removal technique. There are a few scratches on the lcd that hopefully aren't too visible after putting a ditizer on it.
@repairsuniverse would you guys put new adhesive between lcd and digitizer? I saw a video on youtube were a few guys used some sort of UV adhesive. Not exactly for the htc 8s but for other phones. Can i skip that part? Btw all the UV light i have is from the sun
DNA89 said:
There realy is no slot for a internal sd card. All important motherboard components where hidden behind a metal cover.
Progress: I removed all the adhesive left on the lcd with a adhesive remover. It works great, but now i see that i should have used that motorola digitizer removal technique. There are a few scratches on the lcd that hopefully aren't too visible after putting a ditizer on it.
@repairsuniverse would you guys put new adhesive between lcd and digitizer? I saw a video on youtube were a few guys used some sort of UV adhesive. Not exactly for the htc 8s but for other phones. Can i skip that part? Btw all the UV light i have is from the sun
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were on the right track, you will need UV adhesive for that to be successful.
Hi, my son has smashed the screen of his HTC 8s and I was wondering how easy it was to replace the screen or if it is better for me to take it to a shop to be repaired.
Many thanks
EDIT- there are two different types of tape that holds the battery in. There is no obvious way to tell which type your phone has (to my knowledge). One has foam double sided tape, the other is some kind of thin & very strong adhesive tape. If your phone is the latter, you'll need to be VERY careful when trying to take it out.
I would suggest applying a lot of heat to the front of the phone screen - this should transfer to the tape behind the screen, and make it much easier to remove. If you damage your battery it'll cost approximately $45 USD + shipping to replace it. I haven't tried this method yet, but that is the only way I can see.
Ok, here is my guide / how-to for replacing the display assembly on the Asus Zenfone 2 ZE551ML.
Let me know if you have any questions. I would say it was fairly straight forward - I have not done this before on any phone, and mine works well.
I've posted the full guide with pictures on Imgur here: http://imgur.com/a/KXTFV
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Compatible Replacement Part
The original screen has the following code stamped on the back of the display: "TL055VDXP34-00".
The first replacement display assembly (did not work) had the following code: "TLD55VVXP31-00".
The second replacement assembly (did work) had the following code: "TL055VDXP34-00".
On that basis, I would suggest that the first unit I received was an earlier model, and was the incorrect part. I assume that the replacement display assembly must be model TL055VDXP34-00.
Step 1
Remove back cover
Step 2
Remove screws in plastic panel
NOTE: Remember to remove the one next to the camera (this might be covered by a small sticker).
This cover should remove quite easily - if you can't lift it, count those screws! There should be 14. Again - check that one by the camera that is somewhat hidden.
NOTE These screws are actually the only screws which hold the phone together. Once these are out and the cover is up, the speaker unit will fall away from the phone.
Step 3
To remove the plastic panel pry it up at one end, and use a sharp blade to separate the double sided tape between the battery and the plastic panel.
NOTE: I removed the double sided tape completely when I put it back together. It doesn't seem to really be necessary.
Step 4
Remove the antenna cable, vibrate motor, and four other connections.
The three above the battery pop up away from the phone.
Step 5
To disconnect the flat cable at the bottom of the battery you need to first remove the yellow plastic sticker covering it. Next lift the white tab to release the cable, then gently pull the cable out towards the base of the phone.
Step 6
To remove the battery, gently pull up away from the phone. Once you have located the double sided tape holding it to the phone, you should use the sharp blade to separate it from the housing.
NOTE: Be gentle with the small metal tabs on the edge of the battery; these are quite flimsy and will bend if used to force the battery. I removed the double sided tape completely here too, and did not replace it.
Step 7
Once the battery is out you need to lift the copper sheet from the body of the phone, which is held in place with some mild adhesive. Use tweezers and lift from one corner gently, working your way slowly across the square piece.
Step 8
Lift the yellow plastic sticker, then disconnect the screen plug shown in the picture.
NOTE This is a connection for the display, and actually goes under the main unit in a right angle, then up and out a small slit at the top of the phone (shown in picture for step 16). This cable is part of the display assembly, and is being replaced entirely. If it is easier, you could actually cut this cable completely.
Step 9
There are four plastic retainers which fix the remaining unit to the body of the phone. Use a small amount of force on one side to pop this section out. Once this is freed, it should be simple to remove it completely.
Step 10
Once the internal pieces of the phone are removed, you'll need to detach the display cable (from step 8) from the body. This is held in place with some adhesive, and shouldn't be too hard to pry up.
NOTE: Your new display assembly will have some adhesive on the replacement cable - should be self explanatory when fixing this back on.
Step 11
To remove the display itself you'll need to apply heat. I had a heat gun - this makes it a lot easier ($20-$30 on eBay) but you could use a hair drier if you don't have a heat gun. For the sake of comparison - the heat gun took around 30 seconds to heat the display completely, which would take 3-5 minutes with a hair drier.
Once the adhesive behind the screen has been heated up, work your way around the edges of the screen with a sharp razor blade. The display will begin to separate from the housing.
Once mostly free, carefully lift the display cable through the hole in the top of the phone body. Again; you're replacing this cable completely, so don't worry too much about it.
Step 12
You will need to separate the speaker grill from the original display, clean the adhesive off, and attach it for the new screen. I found it easier to attach the grill to the actual phone body (rather than the display assembly).
Step 13
Because of the condition of the adhesive for the screen assembly, I decided to replace the adhesive completely. You could skip this step, but I figured it was worth cleaning it up.
To remove the existing adhesive I just used the sharp razor blade and worked my way around peeling it all off.
NOTE: This would be a good opportunity to 'test fit' the new screen (without adhesive) so you can see where the cables need to go. There is one which goes up behind the screen and through the middle of the phone, and another which goes through the top hole. The top one is a strange shape, and needs to go through sideways first.
Step 14
I used the 3M double sided adhesive tape to go around the edge of the new screen assembly.
NOTE: The replacement adhesive I used was 3M double sided adhesive tape (2mm) - the tape was around $10 from a mobile phone repair supplies store. The tape was too wide and not thick enough, so I doubled it over. It fit perfectly once I did that. Unless you can find thicker double sided tape which is closer to the original adhesive, I would recommend this approach.
Step 15
Once the adhesive is all laid out on the phone, put the screen assembly on. I started from the top and slide the top cable through the hole, then slowly worked my way down to the bottom.
NOTE: I'd suggest you don't press too hard on the adhesive until you are sure that both cables are through to the back, and that the screen is sitting well in the body.
Step 16
Looking at the phone from the back, remove the adhesive backing from the display cable and carefully position the cable between the four black markers.
Step 17
After the new screen is fixed in, start the re-assembly. This is effectively the same as disassembly, but in reverse. There were only a couple of parts that I'd make note of:
a) Keep an eye on the display cable that comes in through the top. Mine got caught on the double sided tape, and needed to be pulled through.
b) You will need to use a little bit of force to mount the processor unit between the four plastic clips. Be careful when doing this. (shown in step 9)
c) I completely removed the double sided tape from under the battery and under the plastic case. I figured that if I need to go back into the phone, I wouldn't want to deal with the tape again. I'm glad I did, because the first screen was a dud.
d) If you lose any of the yellow plastic cable stickers, you can borrow a piece from your old display assembly.
Additional pictures:
Are those pictures too big? Someone let me know, I'll resize them.
thanks for the how-to!
i just have one question... where did u buy the screen with that exact code? all i've found is the one that's not working with u
Added to index, thanks for your work!
MegyK said:
thanks for the how-to!
i just have one question... where did u buy the screen with that exact code? all i've found is the one that's not working with u
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the one I bought http://r.ebay.com/fCPlmR
I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.
alexjez05 said:
I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.
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The nature of electronics means that it's entirely possible you damaged something in the process. I guess that's part of the risk you take when you go about a DIY repair.
Might be worth double checking all of those connections to make sure that you got them all plugged in.
Also, double check that the phone is charged?
alexjez05 said:
I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.
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make sure you slide in the connector on the top left (i think CON2001)
Excellent write up.. Thanks
Good work and excellent write up.
Help needed please.
Having problems after replacing the touch screen digitizer. Home Key, Return Key and Recent Applications keys not working. I am attaching a picture of the Screen Touch Test. The lower portion of display is not working and Home Screen and Navigation buttons are unresponsive
loveerslane said:
Having problems after replacing the touch screen digitizer. Home Key, Return Key and Recent Applications keys not working. I am attaching a picture of the Screen Touch Test. The lower portion of display is not working and Home Screen and Navigation buttons are unresponsive
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Almost certain that's caused by a loose cable - had a similar issue with mine. Open it up, check the cables are seated properly.
I have an issue now after replacing the screen where it says "Camera failed to launch. Please reboot." Did you ever see this, or better yet know of a solution. The connectors to the camera are ok as are all other connectors.
Very thanks
i used some rubbing alcohol to loosen up the adhesive for the battery. I lifted up one side of the battery and put a few drops of rubbing alcohol onto the adhesive. it worked perfectly to weaken the adhesive and i was able to pull the battery up without damaging the battery.
that was probably the hardest part of the repair.
I have a ZE551ML, i got the XP31 screen, and at first the touch did not work.
I double checked the cable from the screen to the main board.
Turned out there was tape on it. Moved the tape, reassembled, and the screen worked.
Details:
wisdomous.ca/BLOG/Asus_Zenfone2_screen_replacement_ZE551ML.htm
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i have zenfone 2 one sim card slot not proper working
sunil9327 said:
i have zenfone 2 one sim card slot not proper working
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I also have a similar problem after finally managing to get one screen working properly;
After changing two screens without being able to get touch to work I had to go back to my old, and seriously broken, screen - which still worked every time I remounted it
However, in a last move of desperation I checked the cable connections, cleaned them off just in case and especially wedging the tiny flat cable into its slot extra hard and deep... and at the second go, it just booted up as usual - with touch fully working (!!!)
Now almost all is well again, even though my old and new screen have completely different numbers...?
So maybe, what can sometimes be needed is to really shove the tiny flat cable from the screen (connects on the top left of the mainboard) into its slot and to boot and reboot more than twice to get touch active...?
On another note, for my personal sake, the SD-card slot seems to be malfunctioning, and if I have an SD mounted the phone reboots itself at some point and runs incredibly hot. So obviously I leave it out. However, as much as I wanted it to be due to the double sided flat cable (with SIM1/2 and SD slot) running across the battery between the mainboard and the speaker/usb-board, it seems that the actual connection on the mainboard has been damaged and probably needs to be replaced. But after extensive searching online I cannot find a single thing. I work in electronic manufacturing and would in theory easily be able to solder a new one in place.
Does anyone know what this is called?
PS. Maybe this last part should go into another thread, but the first paragraphs are on topic, I believe (and can maybe help someone...?)
Having some issues with it
I'm having problems with the touch screen. It started to be unresponsive some days after I replaced it, but it didn't notice it at the beginning because the problem wasn't serious. However, the following days it started to be always less responsive, and now the top part of the screen it doesn't response at all. Inexplicably, sometimes the touch screen works perfectly for some minutes, and then becomes totally unresponsive.
The software is up to date. Have you any idea of what's happening?
Question: screen adhesive to be purchased separately, or does it come with the screen? Thanks!