hi friends this is my first post in GS3 world. We live in a rural area and are dependent on good WIFI service - I do tech work so the WIFI in the hacienda is very robust. All our other many devices love the WIFI rig: 2 ipad mins, one Galaxy Note 1, another older Galaxy, two laptops, one HTPC, etc. Only the new-to-me GS3 has issues with it. The visual indicator on the handset seems to not give an accurate picture, so we keep going into settings and seeing what is reported there... "Strong" signal is usually what displays, but in use, sending messages, making wifi calls, whatever, the results are pretty bad. We're using the stock messaging [google] app and stock T-Mobile WIFI calling app.
I want to say that web browsing is a little better, but can't really give details.
ROM etc:
android 4.1.2
baseband T999UVDMD5
Kernel 3.0.31-1128078
build JZ054K.T999UVDMD5
searching around the web I see a lot of the same complaints but really lousy diagnosis and lousier fixes [turn off 'data'; reboot the handset; call T-mobile... that sort of 'fix']
What is the scoop? Is there an internal WIFI antenna connection inside that needs to be checked?
Is there some elusive patch from Samsung?
Is the rig Channel-sensitive? [some older handsets only liked channel 11, or others only channel 6, etc.]
pls point me to the definitive thread if there is one...
thanks in advance
I'm not sure of any threads with much information on this. I don't recall seeing very many WiFi issues at all with the S3.
Are you rooted? Custom ROM?
If so you may want to try some of the other modems/baseband. Link in my Sig.
Otherwise, maybe try Odin flashing the UVDLJC or LJA firmware.
You say it's new to you, so I'm assuming you got it used. Do you know who you bought it from and did they report any problems?
How does it perform on other WiFi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999L using xda premium
DocHoliday77 said:
I'm not sure of any threads with much information on this. I don't recall seeing very many WiFi issues at all with the S3.
Are you rooted? Custom ROM?
If so you may want to try some of the other modems/baseband. Link in my Sig.
Otherwise, maybe try Odin flashing the UVDLJC or LJA firmware.
You say it's new to you, so I'm assuming you got it used. Do you know who you bought it from and did they report any problems?
How does it perform on other WiFi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999L using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, flash stock or root66 firmware of choice. We will go from there.
Aerowinder said:
Yep, flash stock or root66 firmware of choice. We will go from there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its all stock now.
are you saying to go ahead and nuke, reinstall stock ROM?
I don't have the option of going down Root66 - we are utterly dependent on WIFI Calling.
Is there a way to stop scanning selectively? that is, when I am on my own AP, there's no point in constantly scanning - there are other very weak wifi AP's in the vicinity and I"m wondering if somehow that causes an issue? my Note 1 is rock-solid. I don't recall a single drop with it in the 6 months I've had it. Most disconcerting is when WIFI calling drops - I've been using T-mobile devices for years and only once did I have one for which WIFI calling would disconnect, restart, and reappear like this. It will drop out, then refind its WIFI connection, then you get the "WIFI is Ready" all over again, just like you do when Rebooting the phone.
cognus said:
its all stock now.
are you saying to go ahead and nuke, reinstall stock ROM?
I don't have the option of going down Root66 - we are utterly dependent on WIFI Calling.
Is there a way to stop scanning selectively? that is, when I am on my own AP, there's no point in constantly scanning - there are other very weak wifi AP's in the vicinity and I"m wondering if somehow that causes an issue? my Note 1 is rock-solid. I don't recall a single drop with it in the 6 months I've had it. Most disconcerting is when WIFI calling drops - I've been using T-mobile devices for years and only once did I have one for which WIFI calling would disconnect, restart, and reappear like this. It will drop out, then refind its WIFI connection, then you get the "WIFI is Ready" all over again, just like you do when Rebooting the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, nuke everything. That's the only way we can rule out modified/mismatched firmware as a cause.
root66 is stock firmware with root injected into the system image. So wifi calling will still be there. It's just whether or not you want root.
Also wipe data/factory reset. If using stock recovery, this WILL wipe your internal SD. Backup your user apps with TiBu/RTB, and your internal SD card. Do not backup system apps.
You can adjust scanning frequency with build.prop modifications, but I personally use Tasker to control when it's on and off.
ahh. my fault.
ok, we'll get on it tonight and report back when squeaky clean.
Aerowinder said:
Yes, nuke everything. That's the only way we can rule out modified/mismatched firmware as a cause.
root66 is stock firmware with root injected into the system image. So wifi calling will still be there. It's just whether or not you want root.
Also wipe data/factory reset. If using stock recovery, this WILL wipe your internal SD. Backup your user apps with TiBu/RTB, and your internal SD card. Do not backup system apps.
You can adjust scanning frequency with build.prop modifications, but I personally use Tasker to control when it's on and off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please; need a little guidance
Friends, I successfully nuked the GS3, flashed with Root66, got everything working really well but the WIFI issues resurfaced.
Does the GS3 just have a really weak radio?
Compared to even the most humble Galaxy S4G [old and tired], its WIFI performance is not impressive.
Compared to my personal Galaxy Note 1 running more/less stock ICS, its awful ... annoying, unreliable, glitch.
WHY?
My suspicion is that it has trouble switching/credentialing/authenticating from one physical router/AP to another. In our wifi lan setup we have a common AP composed of 2 routers of different chipsets/mftr. Works dandy on ipads, iphones, windows 8, windows 8.1, my Note 1, older/retired/sold androids, etc. The Galaxy S3 is pretty much alone at having trouble when the physical signal of one gets weak and the second one is available - it seems to fumble the ball. Thus, you try to make/receive/talk wifi Call, and get random drops, retries, reload of the WIFI Calling APP.
is there a fix?
Set static channel?
Set static IP [instead of DHCP/select] ?
Grab inSSIDer from the play store, it'll show you if you are on the best wifi channel for your network.
Try turning off some of your other devices wifi connections. May be that the router isn't handling them all at once very well.
Do you have anything that operates on the Wireless-G standard? If so shut it down. Itll only severely degrade the entire networks performance.
You need to be rooted for this, but try the LJC and LJA modems, others too if your up for it.
Does it exhibit the same problems on other wifi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
Thank you for helping!
OK - Let me ask a question [it is rooted - root66 per above, busybox, SU, etc]:
I've used InSSIDer before and moved channels here and there and what I noticed is that the way inSSIDer deals with signal data display, whatever channel you pick, it will show one of the other channels as being "better". switch to that channel, and it will show some other channels to be better, etc round and round we go. maybe I'm not using it right...
as to G-only devices I'll give that a shot - I think one of my windows units may be all G. easy fix.
To me it seems clear: the places where the GS3 goes ambiguous and fails to maintain a connection is where the two AP signals [again, one AP,one login, one authentication type, but 2 physical] are pretty evenly matched, per how WIFI Analyzer displays the data. If I shut off the tertiary router, it will just drop signal when you move a tad too far away which is what one would expect, but the GS3's "reach" is the worst of the lot. I'm hoping somebody has figured out how to get hold of that radio and boost the signal.
I don't have a feel for how it does otherwise - we are dependent on WIFI calling at home/office - when out and about its the usual drill... sit in the right spot at the restaurant and you're good.
Those modems you suggest: do they support T-mo WIFI calling APP ?
DocHoliday77 said:
Grab inSSIDer from the play store, it'll show you if you are on the best wifi channel for your network.
Try turning off some of your other devices wifi connections. May be that the router isn't handling them all at once very well.
Do you have anything that operates on the Wireless-G standard? If so shut it down. Itll only severely degrade the entire networks performance.
You need to be rooted for this, but try the LJC and LJA modems, others too if your up for it.
Does it exhibit the same problems on other wifi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cognus said:
Thank you for helping!
OK - Let me ask a question [it is rooted - root66 per above, busybox, SU, etc]:
I've used InSSIDer before and moved channels here and there and what I noticed is that the way inSSIDer deals with signal data display, whatever channel you pick, it will show one of the other channels as being "better". switch to that channel, and it will show some other channels to be better, etc round and round we go. maybe I'm not using it right...
as to G-only devices I'll give that a shot - I think one of my windows units may be all G. easy fix.
To me it seems clear: the places where the GS3 goes ambiguous and fails to maintain a connection is where the two AP signals [again, one AP,one login, one authentication type, but 2 physical] are pretty evenly matched, per how WIFI Analyzer displays the data. If I shut off the tertiary router, it will just drop signal when you move a tad too far away which is what one would expect, but the GS3's "reach" is the worst of the lot. I'm hoping somebody has figured out how to get hold of that radio and boost the signal.
I don't have a feel for how it does otherwise - we are dependent on WIFI calling at home/office - when out and about its the usual drill... sit in the right spot at the restaurant and you're good.
Those modems you suggest: do they support T-mo WIFI calling APP ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As or inssider, or any similar app, I don't go by what it says is the best channel. I simply look for the channel that has the fewest networks overlapping it. It probably tells you a different one us best each time because its taking into account that there is now another network on the previously recommended channel, yours.
If you have a single G device on an N network, it'll slow the entire network down to wireless-g speeds. So yeah, shut down that machine and ill bet you see improvements across the board. (You may need to reboot the network and other devices)
If you have one router and one AP but both with the same ssid and pw that may be causing your problems. With this type setup there's no way to really be sure which you're connected to. You may connect when close to one, but when you move away from it and closer to the second, it won't connect to the closer/stronger one automatically. Even if you turn it off then on again, it may still connect to the first if the signal is strong enough, even though there may be a stronger one available.
Try having it connect to the ap using different credentials and then you should have greater control over which you're using at a given time.
Allthe modems should function properly with everything they are supposed to, so yes they'll all work for wifi calling. I was looking into a way to adjust the Tx power for wifi a long time ago. Ill see if I can find what I was doing and try again. If you use a 3rd party router firmware (dd-wrt or tomato), you can adjust Tx power on the router itself if I remember correctly.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
DocHoliday77 said:
If you have a single G device on an N network, it'll slow the entire network down to wireless-g speeds. So yeah, shut down that machine and ill bet you see improvements across the board. (You may need to reboot the network and other devices)
If you have one router and one AP but both with the same ssid and pw that may be causing your problems. With this type setup there's no way to really be sure which you're connected to. You may connect when close to one, but when you move away from it and closer to the second, it won't connect to the closer/stronger one automatically. Even if you turn it off then on again, it may still connect to the first if the signal is strong enough, even though there may be a stronger one available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
in reverse order:
- as to to the wifi device power/range I was speaking of the phone/handset, not the router. But since you mentioned: I have not found an N or beyond router that has GOOD open source; open-wrt, dd-wrt, tomato et al - if you really read carefully what the feedback is, a lot of them suffer bad speed degradation. the old wrt54gl's would run full-tilt G speeds, over a wide range, and last for many years, but I have not found the equivalent in any other device running or capable of running one of the good [or formerly good] open-source codebase
- Are you sure about that client-bridging common-ssid/pw/encryption? the whole point of such firmware is to make the transition seamless and it is for every device except the GS3: two ipad's, one Galaxy S4G [999v], one Galaxy note T879 [debloated stock ics], two HP workstations, three laptops - gateway, thinkpad, hp Envy - not one of those devices gags when switching router signals. only the GS3. with the other devices, you literally forget that you've got multiple routers
The GS3 code has multiple network notifications also that the other two Galaxy's do not: it interrupts your blasted work to INFORM you that you're signal is dropping [how dumb is that?] - then it informs you that you've been disconnected, and informs you that you're "not registered on the network", then it informs you that it is logging in again, then it informs you that WIFI Calling App is ready for use as though it was the first time you used it.
- I will give the modems a whirl. I'll stash a full nandroid and try them out - If any of you happen to have a link to the 'how to' steps pls pass on as it will save me a lot of careful reading.
oh, and I was wrong about G-device; i replaced that one with an N device. Frankly, G speed is way fast enough. my internet connection is only 20Mbps so if I had the old WRT rigs back and up/running it would be PLENTY fast. Mixing B with G... now that was a real problem - there you were talking about effectively 1 to 5 Mbps
cognus said:
in reverse order:
- as to to the wifi device power/range I was speaking of the phone/handset, not the router. But since you mentioned: I have not found an N or beyond router that has GOOD open source; open-wrt, dd-wrt, tomato et al - if you really read carefully what the feedback is, a lot of them suffer bad speed degradation. the old wrt54gl's would run full-tilt G speeds, over a wide range, and last for many years, but I have not found the equivalent in any other device running or capable of running one of the good [or formerly good] open-source codebase
- Are you sure about that client-bridging common-ssid/pw/encryption? the whole point of such firmware is to make the transition seamless and it is for every device except the GS3: two ipad's, one Galaxy S4G [999v], one Galaxy note T879 [debloated stock ics], two HP workstations, three laptops - gateway, thinkpad, hp Envy - not one of those devices gags when switching router signals. only the GS3. with the other devices, you literally forget that you've got multiple routers
The GS3 code has multiple network notifications also that the other two Galaxy's do not: it interrupts your blasted work to INFORM you that you're signal is dropping [how dumb is that?] - then it informs you that you've been disconnected, and informs you that you're "not registered on the network", then it informs you that it is logging in again, then it informs you that WIFI Calling App is ready for use as though it was the first time you used it.
- I will give the modems a whirl. I'll stash a full nandroid and try them out - If any of you happen to have a link to the 'how to' steps pls pass on as it will save me a lot of careful reading.
oh, and I was wrong about G-device; i replaced that one with an N device. Frankly, G speed is way fast enough. my internet connection is only 20Mbps so if I had the old WRT rigs back and up/running it would be PLENTY fast. Mixing B with G... now that was a real problem - there you were talking about effectively 1 to 5 Mbps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I havent used any 3rd party firmwares for my networks in a long time. I was assuming that for the Wireless-N routers, they would have come a long way and solved a lot of their issues by now. My mistake.
I am sure about the router/ap setup. (Is your second set up as an Access Point or Repeater? Either way the same issues can still present themselves) I refer you to the following website for information on this and a little bit to back up my claim. It may be worded better or easier to understand than me, but either way its good info.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...w-to-add-an-access-point-to-a-wireless-router
Step 3 is where this is touched on.
I have to be honest that I am skeptical that your other devices are transitioning over to the AP. (im guessing they are ALWAYS connecting to the AP) Unless their radios are actually much weaker than the GS3's. In fact, what I suspect at this point is that your GS3 is trying to connect directly to your router all the time, while your other devices are connecting to one or the other, all of the time. This is one of the draw backs to using the same SSID, it is difficult to tell which you are actually connecting to.
Read over that linked page. Let me know what you think.
Will do. thanks for that.
if your theory is right, on any one of the frequent auto-disconnect cycles, you're saying that the GS3 will connect to which? the stronger one? any idea how the firmware is setup to pick a winner?
Also, webbing around for answers [there are a LOT of threads on this issue as it turns out], there's a good deal of discussion about 5ghz vs 2.4ghz bands, and that samsung/t-mo have changed how the firmware handles transitions [or connect/disconnect] to one or the other. i.e. https://support.t-mobile.com/thread/37707?start=0&tstart=0
I can set my routers to one or the other if that would help - Any ideas if one is preferable?
Ever heard of GS3 being "channel sensitive"? I have not. Early WIFI/WIFI-Calling capable models from several mftrs were quite channel-nitpicky.
I could easily check that transition [seamless dropping of one, connecting to another] if there was a way to verify the MAC of the connected ap. know of such? I can't find much in the way of advanced settings but I have not a guide to the keyboard/manual settings methods for this build 4.1.2.
read the article but see no discussion of your point.
pick the right link?
the setup I'm using is simple wireless bridging - no physical medium between the twain. subordinate router has the mac address, encryption type, ssid, credentials and channel setting of the boss. reboot and done.
pretty much the same type of bridging as with DD-WRT [though it has a lot more options... more confusing]
I really think that the GS3 modems aren't that good, especially when it comes to wifi calling. My family and I haven been having some bad signal problems as of late so we've been relying on wifi calling to make calls. I had a lot of dropped calls in the past but I knew that had a lot to do with the old modem/router setup I was using. I would lose internet connection not matter what I was on. The internet would just drop and then reconnect, very frustrating if you were on a call or playing Xbox live. so last week I hooked up a new Comcast modem with wifi. The drops stopped but I still have to literally be standing right next to the modem if I wanted to make sure I didn't lose a call. If I walked into the kitchen, which is 15ft away, I'd get the little beep that warns that I'm about to lose the wifi signal. I know my signal that's coming from the router is good because all my devices, including the phone says so. Hell, the kids across the street asked if they could have the password because their internet was shut off and my signal is strong over there.
I don't have anything technical to support what I say, just experience but that experience tells me that Tmobile's wifi calling doesn't work that well unless your within 3 ft of the router.
cognus said:
Will do. thanks for that.
if your theory is right, on any one of the frequent auto-disconnect cycles, you're saying that the GS3 will connect to which? the stronger one? any idea how the firmware is setup to pick a winner?
Also, webbing around for answers [there are a LOT of threads on this issue as it turns out], there's a good deal of discussion about 5ghz vs 2.4ghz bands, and that samsung/t-mo have changed how the firmware handles transitions [or connect/disconnect] to one or the other. i.e. https://support.t-mobile.com/thread/37707?start=0&tstart=0
I can set my routers to one or the other if that would help - Any ideas if one is preferable?
Ever heard of GS3 being "channel sensitive"? I have not. Early WIFI/WIFI-Calling capable models from several mftrs were quite channel-nitpicky.
I could easily check that transition [seamless dropping of one, connecting to another] if there was a way to verify the MAC of the connected ap. know of such? I can't find much in the way of advanced settings but I have not a guide to the keyboard/manual settings methods for this build 4.1.2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Accorfong to my research it'll try to always connect to the first one it connected to. Even if the signal is stronger on another. That's the main point I was linking to that article for.
As for which band to choose, 2.4 is usually best. 5.0 is faster, but with a shorter range and more susceptible to interference.
tmob removed the option as you can manually select which you prefer. There is an apl I include with all my roms though that'll give this option back. Let me know if you want the link, though I doubt it'll help ypur particular problem.
cognus said:
read the article but see no discussion of your point.
pick the right link?
the setup I'm using is simple wireless bridging - no physical medium between the twain. subordinate router has the mac address, encryption type, ssid, credentials and channel setting of the boss. reboot and done.
pretty much the same type of bridging as with DD-WRT [though it has a lot more options... more confusing]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, so its more of a repeater setup. The routers are not connected to each other via Ethernet or powerline?
Step 3 of that article is what I wanted you to read. Its on the 2nd page. (Though I do suggest reading the whole of both pages)
nataku199 said:
I really think that the GS3 modems aren't that good, especially when it comes to wifi calling. My family and I haven been having some bad signal problems as of late so we've been relying on wifi calling to make calls. I had a lot of dropped calls in the past but I knew that had a lot to do with the old modem/router setup I was using. I would lose internet connection not matter what I was on. The internet would just drop and then reconnect, very frustrating if you were on a call or playing Xbox live. so last week I hooked up a new Comcast modem with wifi. The drops stopped but I still have to literally be standing right next to the modem if I wanted to make sure I didn't lose a call. If I walked into the kitchen, which is 15ft away, I'd get the little beep that warns that I'm about to lose the wifi signal. I know my signal that's coming from the router is good because all my devices, including the phone says so. Hell, the kids across the street asked if they could have the password because their internet was shut off and my signal is strong over there.
I don't have anything technical to support what I say, just experience but that experience tells me that Tmobile's wifi calling doesn't work that well unless your within 3 ft of the router.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make sure you don't have a bottleneck somewhere on your network. (Such as a misconfigured router, a docsis 1.0 cable modem, etc.) Or as I stated before, if you have a wireless g device active on your network, it'll force the whole network to degrade to wireless g speeds. Also use inssider to check if you are on the best channel. And check for any points of interference. (Microwaves, cordless phones, power hungry appliances, etc)
If your cell signal went south recently, it may be due to the work tmobile has been doing. What worked best before, may not anymore. Try out the many other available modems to see if it improves.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
---------- Post added at 05:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:06 PM ----------
Thos is a copy/paste of the text I was referring to.
(Starting under step 3)
But most wireless clients are very "sticky" and tend to stay associated to the first AP they encounter,*even when APs with stronger signals are available. So I recommend setting a*different SSID*for the AP, so that you can manually control connection.The other advantage of setting a different SSID for the AP is that you'll be able to see both the AP and your main wireless router if you're using the Wireless Zero Configuration utility that is built into Windows. Even in Vista, Microsoft has stubbornly chosen to not show multiple wireless networks that use the same Network Name / SSID.
4) Set the AP channel
One large network practice that you*do*want to follow is to set the AP to a different channel than the main wireless router. In the U.S. you should use only the non-overlapping channels*1, 6 and 11. So if your main wireless router is set to channel 6, set the AP to either 1 or 11.You should probably do a quick site-survey first (see this HowTo), to make sure that you aren't setting the AP channel to one used by a neighbor's network. If you can't find a completely clear channel, choose the*weakest*neighboring network and set the AP to its channel.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
I'll look into it.
Thanx
Related
I was wondering if anyone else has this issue. I think most people know by now the issue we all ran into with 4G after we flashed roms with the new OTA update. The 4G would just be stuck at "scanning...." and never connect.
Anyways, I did manage to fix the 4G issue using bigbiff's steps here. So now the 4G connects with no issues but there's one problem: when I leave 4G area or go indoors and come back into 4G area it won't reconnect by itself. I have to either turn on and off 4G or hit the "Scan" button.
If anyone can give me any insight or ideas as to what's going on that would be very awesome.
I have the same problem, and I have seen at least one other person mention this problem (it's kind of hard to search the forum for this problem, since all you get are the folks having problems connecting to 4G).
This started after the OTA update. If the 4G signal fades out, the 4G status remains in "scanning" even in known 4G areas. I made one 4G change to try and fix this - I changed the wimax_idle_sleep time from 10 to 300 as was recommended in the 4G problem posts.
I am wondering if anyone knows what the other 4G settings do and if any of them would fix the problem. So far the only way I know to reconnect to 4G is to turn the radio off and on.
I posted this in another forum, the more frequented one. I thought it was more applicable there since this might be an issue concerning rooting, custom ROMs, home ROM flashing, or all the above. Until I see a wave of non-rooted users complaining about this, I think Sprint has found a gotcha for rooters and flashers. Input from some ROM developers would be nice if they happen to visit this forum.
I can enter a 4g area, turn on 4g, and connect. When I leave a 4g area, turn off 4g, then turn 4g back on before re-entering 4g area and enter a 4g area, it is stuck scanning. It never attaches to the 4g network in the area I entered. If I turn 4g off and on while in 4g area, it will connect.
Are unrooted stock users having these problems? It is a real let down and PITA. Is 4g working perfectly in all scenarios for any rooted user?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also think it's related to one of the images we have to flash to get root, as the behavior is definitely different than stock. I noticed this after I first rooted / nand unlocked my phone, but before I applied the new radio & wimax. On my phone, however, 4G does eventually come back up. It might take 5 minutes or more, but it does eventually reconnect.
I'm not sure that it's really a bug though. I actually prefer this behavior because it results in fewer dropped connections when switching between 3G and 4G. For streaming apps (Rhapsody, Pandora, Youtube, etc) the frequent switching forces you to have to start the stream over. I think it might have been an attempt to increase the stability of the data connection at the expense of having a 4G connection less of the time. Could be a hold over from one of the older engineering builds we had to flash during the rooting process? It's strange that the behavior persists after flashing a new radio/wimax, but maybe it's actually controlled elsewhere.
Add me to the list. This is from my post about 20 hours ago which hasn't received any bites:
I have seen various issues reported:
1) 4g won't turn on. PERIOD.
2) 4g turns on but only scans - never connects.
3) 3g/4g alternate so there is never a stable connection.
4) 4g turns on and connects but after a while disconnects and won't reconnect until it is toggled on/off with the widget or check box in settings.
I used to have #3 until I did whitslack's "start over" method and now I have #4. I've changed my wimax idle sleep time to 300 in ##data# and verified a good MAC so other than the 2 evo last resort method I think I've tried everything other than the above.
So, does anyone know if renaming/moving macaddress.tree.xml is for my issue #4? Or does anyone know a specific fix for #4?
If it matters I rooted with toast 1/2 and am still on the rooted stock ROM from whitslack's "start over" method.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some Observations:
I've noticed the following differences since the OTA (with Root-from the "How to Start over with 1.47.651.1" thread):
1. The 4G reconnection problem.
2. Bluetooth no longer auto connects when my headset is in range.
3. I have been getting "Error 67 Data Connection Lost" errors. This error blocks me from 3G data connectivity for a few minutes. During this time, "Mobile Networks" shows "Turning On" in the settings.
I suspect it is one of the following:
a. There is still a radio problem with the rooted OTA
b. the PRI that has not been updated since the root crack matters with this release.
c. Sprint/HTC introduced some new bugs.
d. Some hardware settings need to be tweaked (like the timeout that folks are changing from 10 to 300).
So we need to figure out who is having this problem, and under what circumstances.
I did however note something very interesting. I have repeated this 4 times today. If the 4G disconnects and stays in scanning, if you then place a call it will immediately reconnect. This leads me to believe that it is indeed a setting, and a voice call triggers it (if you recall in May, Sprint was saying that they hope to have Simultaneous Voice and 4G - so there is probably some code to trigger 4G at this point).
What do you folks think.
sw99 said:
Some Observations:
I've noticed the following differences since the OTA (with Root-from the "How to Start over with 1.47.651.1" thread):
1. The 4G reconnection problem.
2. Bluetooth no longer auto connects when my headset is in range.
3. I have been getting "Error 67 Data Connection Lost" errors. This error blocks me from 3G data connectivity for a few minutes. During this time, "Mobile Networks" shows "Turning On" in the settings.
I suspect it is one of the following:
a. There is still a radio problem with the rooted OTA
b. the PRI that has not been updated since the root crack matters with this release.
c. Sprint/HTC introduced some new bugs.
d. Some hardware settings need to be tweaked (like the timeout that folks are changing from 10 to 300).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would take C out because I have not read complaints by non-rooted users.
The latest PRI is 1.40_003. Right?
Who can bring this over? ROM developers say those features are not part of what they do. If not them, then who?
What do you folks think.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think being rooted currently sucks. One of EVO's greatest strengths, connectivity, has been crippled.
sw99, did you try the move the xml file with your mac address solution? If so, I guess it didn't make any difference.
sw99 said:
Some Observations:
I've noticed the following differences since the OTA (with Root-from the "How to Start over with 1.47.651.1" thread):
1. The 4G reconnection problem.
2. Bluetooth no longer auto connects when my headset is in range.
3. I have been getting "Error 67 Data Connection Lost" errors. This error blocks me from 3G data connectivity for a few minutes. During this time, "Mobile Networks" shows "Turning On" in the settings.
I suspect it is one of the following:
a. There is still a radio problem with the rooted OTA
b. the PRI that has not been updated since the root crack matters with this release.
c. Sprint/HTC introduced some new bugs.
d. Some hardware settings need to be tweaked (like the timeout that folks are changing from 10 to 300).
So we need to figure out who is having this problem, and under what circumstances.
I did however note something very interesting. I have repeated this 4 times today. If the 4G disconnects and stays in scanning, if you then place a call it will immediately reconnect. This leads me to believe that it is indeed a setting, and a voice call triggers it (if you recall in May, Sprint was saying that they hope to have Simultaneous Voice and 4G - so there is probably some code to trigger 4G at this point).
What do you folks think.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try making a call tomorrow when this happens and report back.
I had the same problem pre-root.
I wont be able to help anybody too much with technical stuff 'cause I'm basically a non-technical guy, but I've had the same problem with wimax dropping & not reconnecting ever since the OTA update (1.47....). I went to a Sprint store & the guy just went cross eyed, so it may not be too common.
In my case the connection will SOMETIMES come back on its own with a really strong signal, but rarely.
I just rooted tonight so I have no idea if it's worse or not, but I'll find out tomorrow, eh?
I've also had difficulty with Bluetooth automatically connecting, but I have a new stereo so I don't know where the issue lies.
Burt Reynolds said:
I wont be able to help anybody too much with technical stuff 'cause I'm basically a non-technical guy, but I've had the same problem with wimax dropping & not reconnecting ever since the OTA update (1.47....). I went to a Sprint store & the guy just went cross eyed, so it may not be too common.
In my case the connection will SOMETIMES come back on its own with a really strong signal, but rarely.
I just rooted tonight so I have no idea if it's worse or not, but I'll find out tomorrow, eh?
I've also had difficulty with Bluetooth automatically connecting, but I have a new stereo so I don't know where the issue lies.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. So this may have nothing to do with rooting.
kamiller42 said:
sw99, did you try the move the xml file with your mac address solution? If so, I guess it didn't make any difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope. Didn't touch the xml file, as my 4G was connecting, and the fix was for 4G just scanning.
I still think we can tweak the WIMAX settings and make it come back faster.
sw99 said:
Nope. Didn't touch the xml file, as my 4G was connecting, and the fix was for 4G just scanning.
I still think we can tweak the WIMAX settings and make it come back faster.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is basically the only thing I haven't tried.
I tried making a call to reconnect to 4g three times this morning. IT WORKED ALL THREE TIMES! Odd....
sdc177 said:
This is basically the only thing I haven't tried.
I tried the making a call to reconnect to 4g three times this morning. IT WORKED ALL THREE TIMES! Odd....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well at least its faster than toggling the 4G radio - just find a friend with a mobile phone so you don't waste any minutes.
sw99 said:
Well at least its faster than toggling the 4G radio - just find a friend with a mobile phone so you don't waste any minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just dial your own number which takes you to voice mail and shouldn't waste minutes. I'll probably put a direct dial shortcut on my home screen until a solution comes along. Not that I'm worried about wasting my regular minutes....I used 29 of 450 on my last bill!
I can now confirm that moving/deleting the xml file does nothing for our problem. At least not on my EVO.
So, I've been looking at the WIMAX settings (using ##DATA# and my MSL).
There are some settings that look like they could be effecting this problem. Be forewarned, however, that some of the values preset are not considered "valid" when you make a change (leading me to add credence to my theory that HTC/Sprint goofed), so I'm hoping a nandroid backup will recover them. Open each parameter and deleting the values, gives you a popup of the valid values and units.
Here is what I tried so far:
wimax_idle_sleep(s) changed from 10 to 300 seconds - effect: little to none.
wimax_scan_attempt_timeout(s) changed from 1 to 20 seconds - effect: little to none. (note only 5-300 are valid values after this change).
Other parameters that look interesting and their default values:
Wimax_scan_retry(s): 300 Seconds
Wimax_entry_delays(s): 300 seconds
wimax_exit_delay(s): 2 seconds
idle_mode_timer: 60 seconds
Standby Time: 10 Minutes
handoff Threshold: 6
Anyone willing to mess with these (at the risk of losing Wimax, of course)?
That is one place I'm not going to mess around. I saw a stern warning about that recently on the dev forum.
sdc177 said:
Interesting. So this may have nothing to do with rooting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I still have my doubts about that. I put a link in the General forum to this thread, and we have one response. I read around the non-tech sites with 4G forums like SprintUsers, and I don't see these complaints.
I would like to hear from a tech oriented non-rooted user.
sdc177 said:
That is one place I'm not going to mess around. I saw a stern warning about that recently on the dev forum.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm hoping someone who knows what the settings mean can shed some light. I have not had any luck googling any of these fields.
kamiller42 said:
I still have my doubts about that. I put a link in the General forum to this thread, and we have one response. I read around the non-tech sites with 4G forums like SprintUsers, and I don't see these complaints.
I would like to hear from a tech oriented non-rooted user.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did see a couple of non-root complaints, but I can't find them now (not on your standard sites).
I have problem with my nexus, wifi is connected but I cannot access any internet. Sometimes interet works normal, then suddenly disappears, wifi is connected normal but there isnt internet
I tired wih other android phone, samsung galaxy ace, but same thing
But nokia n8 works normal, this dosnt happening
I do not know of which can be either the router or the phone
I tried to change settings on the phone and the router but nothing
If someone has an idea, I would be grateful to him
I had the same problem on my nexus, while the wifi worked fine on other devices. I flashed several different ROMS, to no avail, and resolved myself to believe that it was a hardware problem. Before flashing back to stock, I reset the Router, just for laughs. Problem solved. Make sure your wifi settings on android are correct, and try resetting your router. It's worth a shot. Which ROM are you on?
i tired several times with reseting router, even change settings, sometimes internet start to work but after 30-40 minuts stops again
i dosnt now what exactly ROM is on phone, becouse i just buy him
Without knowing the ROM, and at the risk of sounding like a tech support douche, maybe you should try a wipe/factory reset.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
wipe
brandonfish said:
Without knowing the ROM, and at the risk of sounding like a tech support douche, maybe you should try a wipe/factory reset.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I am new to dealing with the Android OS with my Galaxy Nexus, but I am thinking the same thing. My main concern is backing up and reinstalling all of my information, apps etc. I use Titanium backup pro for my backups but would like to know if my phone will be recognized when I try to reload all of my apps.
Thank you for your reply.
Scott
I have WiFi problems at my house. It shows that I am connected but no internet. I know is the router in my case.
I would test your WiFi somewhere else, such as Starbucks or Barnes and Noble.
moshe22 said:
I have WiFi problems at my house. It shows that I am connected but no internet. I know is the router in my case.
I would test your WiFi somewhere else, such as Starbucks or Barnes and Noble.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I have connection everywhere - Starbucks, home, Staples, Chapters/Indigo (Barnes and Nobles equivalent in Canada), even borrowing Wifi from unsecured home networks etc. but the disconnect is between the Wifi and getting my Internet to connect. Connection bars are all gray and at home very strong signal showing. This reminds me of connection problems I had with my laptops (running the MS OS of course), but in the Android OS I am a "newbie" and reading forums trying to figure what other people's connection problems are, and how they were solved.
There are no Wifi connection problems using my laptop (now) or my daughter's iPods, my wife's Blackberry Bold at home. My data works find, and I wish there was a roll back feature to the time just prior to the problem occurring last Thursday. My understanding is I have to completely restore my system, and this leads me to more questions about if I can reload all of my apps or if I will have to pay for them again. In the end, it may be faster.
I downloaded - per member recommendation - a Wifi analyzer and it shows that my home Wifi speed is excellent.
Thanks, I am always open to ideas to solve.
Do you know how to find the version of ROM on my Galaxy Nexus? I must look.
Scott
Additional Technical Information for solution
I am rooted using GNexus-root-package-FYA with Superuser pack.
ROM/Kernal combo - 3.0.8-gaaa2611 [email protected] #1
Other possible important information
Android version - 4.0.2
Build # - ICL53F.I9250OUGLA4
Mobile network type - UMTS:3
Signal Strength - -103 dBm 5asu
Hey guys,
I've seen a few GS3 threads over the past few weeks where people with multiple Wifi access points have their phone desperately hang on to a relatively weak signal when a stronger signal is available on another access point.
I thought I would let you know that I've been trying out an app called 'Wifi Jumper" that seems to take care of this problem quite well. It scans every 60 seconds (configurable) and if it finds a stronger signal it will automatically drop the existing connection and reconnect to the stronger access point. It can also do other stuff like enable wifi based on mobile tower--based locations but I haven't tried this functionality.
Apologies if this has already been posted - I searched the forum for the word 'jumper' and got no results. It's a paid app available at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.goramart.wifijumper
PS: I'm not affiliated with the app authors and don't get anything out of this in case your wondering.
kwyj said:
Hey guys,
I've seen a few GS3 threads over the past few weeks where people with multiple Wifi access points have their phone desperately hang on to a relatively weak signal when a stronger signal is available on another access point.
I thought I would let you know that I've been trying out an app called 'Wifi Jumper" that seems to take care of this problem quite well. It scans every 60 seconds (configurable) and if it finds a stronger signal it will automatically drop the existing connection and reconnect to the stronger access point. It can also do other stuff like enable wifi based on mobile tower--based locations but I haven't tried this functionality.
Apologies if this has already been posted - I searched the forum for the word 'jumper' and got no results. It's a paid app available at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.goramart.wifijumper
PS: I'm not affiliated with the app authors and don't get anything out of this in case your wondering.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
has anyone tested the posted app? :good:
I'm about to give the ($1.22) app a go. I'll report back. Google Play and/or Wallet is down right now, so it'll be a bit.
The 802.11 signal sensitivity on my Tmo GS3 is HORRIBLE, so I gotta find something.
The thing that caught my eye about this app is that it will supposedly turn my wifi back on when my phone is in the cell-tower-specific geographic area.
I bought it and use it all the time. I am not sure how good it works. Sometimes it seems to work great and sometimes not so much.
I do like the repeater option so when I stay in a hotel it hops around to the best signal if they are all named the same.
I am interested in seeing what others use for this type of app as there are more and more in the store. None seem to be as good as Wifitrak was on my iTouch though.
I also use an app called Wifi Auto-login lite that works great at Mcdonalds, Home Depot, and Sams Club.
Am loving the Wifi Jumper app. Took me a few times to realize that it will re-enable wifi if you turn it off via any othere way than pressing stop on the Jumper app. It's behavior by design.. no ding intended
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda app-developers app
Fireraider, you should check todays wifi jumper's update. A complete rewritten repeater module should fix the connection problems that some repeater environments forced before.
In my Fritz!box 7390 + Fritz repeater + second access point with different SSID it works beautiful.
Beside the other nice features the app offers...
So I have tried to trace my issue to it's roots and after a lot of investigation I decided to make this thread.
The issue:
When connecting to home wifi network I get "Authentication error occurred" even though it's the good password.
It first occurred on stock 4.1.1 ROM with stock Kernel even before rooting. What's more interesting is that I've successfully used the same wifi network for around a month. Other devices connect just fine, no settings on the router changed when this started happening. Didn't fiddle with any settings on the phone neither. I can connect to free wifi APs just fine.
What I've tried:
Dialing *#0011# and from service mode disabling wifi power saving feature.
Using all possible encryption combinations on the router (Open - no password, WEP, WPA-PSK AES and/or TKIP, WPA2-PSK AES and/or TKIP or both WPA and WPA2 at the same time), switching channels, disabling 802.11n mode.
Using some modded wpa_supplicant files from this thread.
Using a bad password just to get a different error.
Downloading some other wifi connectors from the Play Store including Wifi Connection Manager which claims to "Fix device Wi-Fi problems." by cleaning the stored wifi config files and maybe something more.
Flashed Omega v10 ROM with Perseus kernel.
All these things and basically any combinations of them worked to no avail. And the only thing that helped was being very close to the router. That way I manage to connect but moving a couple of meters away, like to a nearby room, and it starts giving the same error even though the network strength is still full at that point.
My thoughts:
I saw a similar issue at a couple of places including a similar thread last active dec 23rd, Android issues on code.google.com and androidforums, but no solutions found there worked. Also comparing how my old original Note and an even older LG P500 perform, the wifi signal is obviously weaker on the Note 2. My area is not heavy on wifi networks, so my guess is there's something wrong with wifi drivers or configuration. Sooooo.... What can I do to remedy this issue and also is there any way to beef up my wifi in the process?
OrangGeeGee said:
So I have tried to trace my issue to it's roots and after a lot of investigation I decided to make this thread.
The issue:
When connecting to home wifi network I get "Authentication error occurred" even though it's the good password.
It first occurred on stock 4.1.1 ROM with stock Kernel even before rooting. What's more interesting is that I've successfully used the same wifi network for around a month. Other devices connect just fine, no settings on the router changed when this started happening. Didn't fiddle with any settings on the phone neither. I can connect to free wifi APs just fine.
What I've tried:
Dialing *#0011# and from service mode disabling wifi power saving feature.
Using all possible encryption combinations on the router (Open - no password, WEP, WPA-PSK AES and/or TKIP, WPA2-PSK AES and/or TKIP or both WPA and WPA2 at the same time), switching channels, disabling 802.11n mode.
Using some modded wpa_supplicant files from this thread.
Using a bad password just to get a different error.
Downloading some other wifi connectors from the Play Store including Wifi Connection Manager which claims to "Fix device Wi-Fi problems." by cleaning the stored wifi config files and maybe something more.
Flashed Omega v10 ROM with Perseus kernel.
All these things and basically any combinations of them worked to no avail. And the only thing that helped was being very close to the router. That way I manage to connect but moving a couple of meters away, like to a nearby room, and it starts giving the same error even though the network strength is still full at that point.
My thoughts:
I saw a similar issue at a couple of places including a similar thread last active dec 23rd, Android issues on code.google.com and androidforums, but no solutions found there worked. Also comparing how my old original Note and an even older LG P500 perform, the wifi signal is obviously weaker on the Note 2. My area is not heavy on wifi networks, so my guess is there's something wrong with wifi drivers or configuration. Sooooo.... What can I do to remedy this issue and also is there any way to beef up my wifi in the process?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had somewhat the same issue. Autentication error.Even though WIfi worked properly on my Galaxy y.
From v9, I flashed v6 Omega and then everything was working fine. So go ahead and flash Omega v6.
And after that did you go back to a Jelly Bean ROM?
Edit: at first I figured omega v6 wasn't JB, but then I checked... For the peace on my mind I'll try flashing Omega v6 later today.
OrangGeeGee said:
And after that did you go back to a Jelly Bean ROM?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I went to v6, all was working well. But when v10 was released,i flashed it,hopiing that the wifi issue is not there but alas same result.
Before flashing,I made a backup of my wifi folder found in root folder /etc/wifi .
After flashing v10, and overwriting the wifi folder with the one that i had backed up, the issue was solved even on 4.1.2 for me.
Worth a try mate.
Do report back.
zeeshanonlyme said:
When I went to v6, all was working well. But when v10 was released,i flashed it,hopiing that the wifi issue is not there but alas same result.
Before flashing,I made a backup of my wifi folder found in root folder /etc/wifi .
After flashing v10, and overwriting the wifi folder with the one that i had backed up, the issue was solved even on 4.1.2 for me.
Worth a try mate.
Do report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds very interesting. Will report Dunno if an upcoming exam is more important than solving this issue now
OrangGeeGee said:
Sounds very interesting. Will report Dunno if an upcoming exam is more important than solving this issue now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The curiosity will hamper your exam!
Is it today?
Well there's 24 hours left, but work and catch-up for half a year is no small feat
To follow up, did flashing Omega v6 work?
i'm really keen to know as I am having the problem currently.
Authentication Problem Wifi - solved for me
Hi folks - I had the same issue with my Galaxy Note I717 (it's the AT&T Note 1) that I got yesterday. I have no problem with my T959 Vibrant to connect to my router at all. But the Note always gave me the authentication problem. So I took it with me to work today and no problems at all to connect to Wifi over there - everything just worked fine.
Back at home - same issue. So I was thinking about to reset my router when I saw this button on it's side and I remembered that I had read something in the settings of my phone.
So that's what I did: When choosing the network on the phone I went to advanced settings. WPS - here I choose Push Button. After that I pushed the button on my router and voila everything worked as supposed.
After switching Wifi off and back on there was no authentication problem anymore. So to confirm the whole thing I let the phone forget the connection and I had the same authentication problem. After choosing WPS "push button" and pushing the button on the router everything worked again.
I don't know - maybe it's just basics for a lot of guys here, but I was glad to figure that out by myself and maybe it helps someone else.
In the case that it might be important - my Note runs stock ICS 4.0.4, stock kernel. is rooted and unlocked. The Vibrant runs ICS Passion V13.1 and Kernel Kiss Yum Yum Good #2. The router is a D-Link DIR 655 Wireless N
Following up the thread:
No, flashing omega v6 didn't work for me.
What I found out is actually 5 GHz band routers work just fine (for example at my university) and all the 2.4 GHz ones give the same error if I'm not close enough to them (something like 5 meters with straight visibility and 2 meters behind closed doors with my home router Comtrend WAP 5813n).
I have called Samsung's Warranty Center to ask for assistance and since we don't have official Samsung service centers in Lithuania, they told me partnered service centers might just return the phone to me as it is and so they would call me when they found out more about this issue (that was almost 2 weeks ago). Will call them again tomorrow and will post any updates if the story develops.
EDIT: After talking to them they apologized for taking so long and assured me I was not forgotten and the issue was forwarded to UK because they have no records/info about it here in Lithuania. Strange thing is I still have my phone, they didn't even wanna check it out.
Note 2 wireless issues
Lads I tried EVERYTHING to get connection working after it dropped on me after a month. Done everything I have read on every forum. EVERYTHING. All other Samsung devices work fine except this note 2! One other odd thing I discovered. It connects fine to any modem or roster fine then when try again on each it won't. You tell me guys? I had it with this issue. Help before I chuck it in Port Phillip Bay!
Hello Jumbo,
i had the same problem and read a lot threads about this error message.
For me it looks like not all who get this error have the same problem.
Some wrote that they fixed it by
- exchanging the wifi folder with the one from 4.1.1..
- flashed a different kernel
- downgraded to 4.1.2
- changed wifi energy saving stuff
- messed around with their routers
and so on..
I also did all this stuff but with no success..
In my case I figured out that
- the same problem exist on 3 different routers (so it couldn't be a router issue)
- the wifi speed (when I sometimes got connected) kept falling from 65MBit down to 5MBit
and by having a wifi connection, I couldn't reach any webpage.
- then I recognised, that I only had a working connection, when I was close
to my router, like 1 or 2 meters without anything between us. In this case
I had no problems with authentication and to surf on the web.
I decided to send my Note2 in for a repair, and guess what... They changed my
Mainboard and since then, everything is back to work..
How long did it take for the repair? I can't imagine being without my phone for an extended period....
I know, it's an addiction, but I'm ok with that..
Steve
I have an identical issue with my S3 GT-I9300
For a totally reliable wifi connection, I've had to site the cradle for the phone on top of my router!
Am out of warranty, so if anyone finds a fix for this that does not involve a mainboard change...
(My first post on this site- I just wish it had been a fix rather than a query)
fuzzer said:
How long did it take for the repair? I can't imagine being without my phone for an extended period....
I know, it's an addiction, but I'm ok with that..
Steve
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the late answer.
My repair took 1 week...
shipped it to w-support on Monday and got it back Saturday.
I was really happy with w-support here in Germany.
I've reset my device to stock and so far it's been sitting @ warranty center for a week, no answer about the roots of the problem yet..
May have found a solution
Hi,
I had the similar problem. With me it started happening after I changed to a Zyxel modem. After some investigation I noticed that in the Zyxel the default gateway is set at 192.168.1.254 whereas most other brands use 192.168.1.1.
Have an inkling that Android doesn't play nice with non-192.168.1.1 gateways.
So changed this in the router settings.
To be sure I also allocated fixed IP on the LAN to my devices and made sure that in the advanced settings of my WiFi network on the Android device I made sure the primary and secondary DNS addresses matched those that the router uses.
Oh.. And to top it all off I fixed the broadcast channel of the router to channel 11 (Probably best you use an app like WiFi Analyser from the Play Store to find the channel that works best for you)
This seems to have solved it for me for now. (I know, not a very scientific method, but got fed up with trying to isolate the culprit)
BTW. Am running (1) Galaxy Note on latest stock ROM (rooted though) (2) Galaxy Tab 2 7" (stock JB ROM - non rooted).
Hope this helps..
Sounds so strange that gateways and channels did it for you. I've tried to change channels on my router with no results. Also I have tried way too many routers before I decided router settings were not a problem. I guess we may have different kind of hardware/software faults resulting in same error message.
OrangGeeGee said:
Sounds so strange that gateways and channels did it for you. I've tried to change channels on my router with no results. Also I have tried way too many routers before I decided router settings were not a problem. I guess we may have different kind of hardware/software faults resulting in same error message.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know. It is weird.
Mind you only a few hours have passed since my changes. I'll keep an eye on it if it reverts to it's old state.
Ok.
Had the same issue again this morning, but oddly enough, once it connects, it stays connected. Also when the phone is put to sleep.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using xda app-developers app
Right before i updated kitkat everything was running perfectly fine, no issues, no complaints, was able to use youtube and various apps via wifi with no problem. After the update it takes forever for videos to start, webpages to load up, and my weather app to update. I sit and watch that loading circle all day long until i switch to lte and just use my carrier bandwidth.
ive hard reset
changed wifi channels and security settings on router
rebooted router, wifi module, unplugged repligged, etc
set opendns on the phone, cant change on the router
dmz'd the phone
distance close or far doesnt make a difference
changed bgn gn wifi settings
ive done everything except rollback to kk or root/unlock/flash a custom rom.
any suggestions?
its a comcast arris modem
Have you tried editing multimedia proxy like so? ##DATA#; you'll need your msl; doesn't change, if you had it in KK. Ad-blocker would mean you need root. Or maybe you just need to opt of Google ads? That's all I can think of.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
In retrospect to comments that followed this post, I will add that one should use this at their risk. It can also be undone with ##767# if not taking note of stock settings. This modification will survive ROM and Odin flashes, so be aware of that. A link was also provided for consideration in my quoted reply below.
Peace.
Hold on a minute... hold your horses! Don't go telling somebody to go mess with these factory settings when they don't need to! If doing a prl & profile update don't resolve your issues then you should consider backing up any files/data on your phone and then odin flash either the stock NK2 or BOB7 Lollipop rom tar. This will ensure you have the latest modem and other critical partitions correctly written to your phone. this is the best way to ensure your phone is setup correctly. DO NOT go messing with things like the post above just because somebdy says it's what you need to do. That is not the solution to your problem. Factory settings are perfectly fine and there's no reason for you to have to go in and manually change those settings. Period.
tx_dbs_tx said:
Hold on a minute... hold your horses! Don't go telling somebody to go mess with these factory settings when they don't need to! If doing a prl & profile update don't resolve your issues then you should consider backing up any files/data on your phone and then odin flash either the stock NK2 or BOB7 Lollipop rom tar. This will ensure you have the latest modem and other critical partitions correctly written to your phone. this is the best way to ensure your phone is setup correctly. DO NOT go messing with things like the post above just because somebdy says it's what you need to do. That is not the solution to your problem. Factory settings are perfectly fine and there's no reason for you to have to go in and manually change those settings. Period.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was only a suggestion.
I'm not to keen on allowing my traffic to flow through a proxy to fill it with ads. Does it hurt anything? No. Safe? The user should only attempt if they're comfortable and confident they can put it back if needed. I wouldn't suggest it if I didn't use it myself. Had it on my last Sprint phone and on this one before lollipop dropped. Again, I wouldn't share a suggestion that I hadn't tried myself.
You're correct about the methods you suggested to try first. I agree, the user should try if not already attempted. I read through what he had attempted and may have missed that. Even a factory reset may have been in order before considering my suggestion as well.
You felt a need to set this right for the user but no reason to go and try to discourage me from suggesting helpful information. If you don't agree, that's your opinion. This is a development forum, is it not?
Do I think ALL factory settings are fine? No. Why do we root our phones to start with? Getting rid of ads that slow slow data and freezing that Connections Optimizer so your phone is not warm when you pull out it to use it and not feeling like you're the only one using your phone. My last Sprint phone still had background birdstep processes going despite opting out Optimizer and turning it off. After all, consider it showed up after Carrier IQ was removed and now Itson is making a visit, deeply rooted in various places including the kernel. And bloat? There are reasons you develop and share. Thank you for that. I chose to develop and share my way; this one we can agree to disagree on. Peace.
It's rather an old topic. Works for some but not for others. I think it depends more on one's location and local Wi-Fi and INTERNET provider.
Here's a thread I found
http://androidforums.com/index.php?threads/361521/
samep said:
It was only a suggestion.
I'm not to keen on allowing my traffic to flow through a proxy to fill it with ads. Does it hurt anything? No. Safe? The user should only attempt if they're comfortable and confident they can put it back if needed. I wouldn't suggest it if I didn't use it myself. Had it on my last Sprint phone and on this one before lollipop dropped. Again, I wouldn't share a suggestion that I hadn't tried myself.
You're correct about the methods you suggested to try first. I agree, the user should try if not already attempted. I read through what he had attempted and may have missed that. Even a factory reset may have been in order before considering my suggestion as well.
You felt a need to set this right for the user but no reason to go and try to discourage me from suggesting helpful information. If you don't agree, that's your opinion. This is a development forum, is it not?
Do I think ALL factory settings are fine? No. Why do we root our phones to start with? Getting rid of ads that slow slow data and freezing that Connections Optimizer so your phone is not warm when you pull out it to use it and not feeling like you're the only one using your phone. My last Sprint phone still had background birdstep prices going despite opting out abc turning it off. After all, consider it showed up after Carrier IQ was removed and now Itson is making a visit. And bloat? There are reasons you develop and share. Thank you for that. I chose to develop and share my way; this one we can agree to disagree on. Peace.
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Ok so before straying off topic with talk about that other stuff... what i'm saying is that his problem does not require modifying those default configs. That's not the cause or solution to his loss of data. There's nothing wrong with the modification you mentioned if a person doesn't in fact have some other issue causing his problem. The first thing i would do is the prl/profile update and if that doesn't restore normal data then i would wipe everything and odin flash the Lollipop rom tar so that all of the carier and systems partitions as well as the modem are correctly restored. Sorry for sounding rude but I think once he gets his data working he can consider doing the mod you suggested which is a good idea.
tx_dbs_tx said:
Ok so before straying off topic with talk about that other stuff... what i'm saying is that his problem does not require modifying those default configs. That's not the cause or solution to his loss of data. There's nothing wrong with the modification you mentioned if a person doesn't in fact have some other issue causing his problem. The first thing i would do is the prl/profile update and if that doesn't restore normal data then i would wipe everything and odin flash the Lollipop rom tar so that all of the carier and systems partitions as well as the modem are correctly restored. Sorry for sounding rude but I think once he gets his data working he can consider doing the mod you suggested which is a good idea.
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No problem. I just felt I should reply. From discussing, we agree more than we disagree. It's better to help the OP than pollute a thread. You did good setting a priority of steps to consider.
Thank you.
samep said:
Have you tried editing multimedia proxy like so? ##DATA#; you'll need your msl; doesn't change, if you had it in KK. Ad-blocker would mean you need root. Or maybe you just need to opt of Google ads? That's all I can think of.
In retrospect to comments that followed this post, I will add that one should use this at their risk. It can also be undone with ##767# if not taking note of stock settings. This modification will survive ROM and Odin flashes, so be aware of that. A link was also provided for consideration in my quoted reply below.
Peace.
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tx_dbs_tx said:
Hold on a minute... hold your horses! Don't go telling somebody to go mess with these factory settings when they don't need to! If doing a prl & profile update don't resolve your issues then you should consider backing up any files/data on your phone and then odin flash either the stock NK2 or BOB7 Lollipop rom tar. This will ensure you have the latest modem and other critical partitions correctly written to your phone. this is the best way to ensure your phone is setup correctly. DO NOT go messing with things like the post above just because somebdy says it's what you need to do. That is not the solution to your problem. Factory settings are perfectly fine and there's no reason for you to have to go in and manually change those settings. Period.
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Pardon my head scratching... But from the the OP I could have sworn he had these problems on WIFI not LTE. What good is a PRL update going to do? Now the profile might help a bit. But I'm thinking he does simply need to odin stock NK2 or BOB7 tar. Aside from that would be to mess with the connection optimizer, and turn it off after deleting the data from the app itself. Flashing the tar could be his best bet because it ensures the latest modem etc. Other than that, I could only think of things like Wifi frequency or even security levels/specific types (WEP or WPA/WPA2 PSK and all that jazz). We have seen on other devices going from build to build sometimes these companies break small features like this unintentionally.
millerboy3 said:
Pardon my head scratching... But from the the OP I could have sworn he had these problems on WIFI not LTE. What good is a PRL update going to do? Now the profile might help a bit. But I'm thinking he does simply need to odin stock NK2 or BOB7 tar. Aside from that would be to mess with the connection optimizer, and turn it off after deleting the data from the app itself. Flashing the tar could be his best bet because it ensures the latest modem etc. Other than that, I could only think of things like Wifi frequency or even security levels/specific types (WEP or WPA/WPA2 PSK and all that jazz). We have seen on other devices going from build to build sometimes these companies break small features like this unintentionally.
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Click to collapse
I must admit I was initially thrown off by some of the OP's comments like hard reset which I mistook for factory reset. And trying everything sort of rolling back to KK; I gave to much credit in my comprehension of his steps taken to remedy his phone.
Thanks for posting that and maybe you better understand my assessment.
If this isn't too far of topic, I'd like to add more to Wi-Fi and lollipop discussion...
Home Wi-Fi can be trickier than appears. I have a Netgear R6300 v2 router and thought it was absolute junk maintaining connection; couldn't get good support from Netgear or TWC. But then when searching on my own, found this app in Google Play by Netgear that instantly gives feedback on your Wi-Fi reception quality and nearby Wi-Fi networks by channel and frequency. I discovered that my neighbouring Wi-Fi systems 2.4GHz would cause my Wi-Fi to shut down and reset if the penetration power exceeded -80dBm on same frequency. Don't know if this indicates a bad router but I think it was a quality of signal issue. To complicate the situation even worse, changing the channel had the same scenario repeating a couple of days later when neighbouring Wi-Fi channels changed frequencies. My resolve was to shutdown 2.4GHz and stay with 5GHz which has zero penetration from competing Wi-Fi systems in my house. Further scanning of neighbouring Wi-Fi units indicates that their power is cycling. It has me thinking that they're suffering from the same congestion of competing 2.4Ghz systems and cycling like mine was. It's worth checking out and It's compatible with other name brands. It also gives the user opportunity to check coverage, quality and speed if connection throughout service area with its various settings menus and refresh rates. I discovered that 5Ghz was sufficient in coverage and faster but had to upgrade a couple of devices that were incompatible with 5Ghz.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.netgear.WiFiAnalytics
Wi-Fi calling is much improved in lollipop as well. Battery is about the same as KK with Xposed so I'd say the Xposed incompatibility with Lollipop-TW isn't that bad with lollipop's battery saving improvement. Google could improve further by not allowing browsers and Google Music to continue to run in background after user is done with them.
samep said:
I must admit I was initially thrown off by some of the OP's comments like hard reset which I mistook for factory reset. And trying everything sort of rolling back to KK; I gave to much credit in my comprehension of his steps taken to remedy his phone.
Thanks for posting that and maybe you better understand my assessment.
If this isn't too far of topic, I'd like to add more to Wi-Fi and lollipop discussion...
Home Wi-Fi can be trickier than appears. I have a Netgear R6300 v2 router and thought it was absolute junk maintaining connection; couldn't get good support from Netgear or TWC. But then when searching on my own, found this app in Google Play by Netgear that instantly gives feedback on your Wi-Fi reception quality and nearby Wi-Fi networks by channel and frequency. I discovered that my neighbouring Wi-Fi systems 2.4GHz would cause my Wi-Fi to shut down ava reset if the penetration power exceeded -80dBm on same frequency. Don't know if this indicates a bad router but I think it was a quality of signal issue. To complicate the situation even worse, changing the channel had the same scenario repeating a couple of days later when neighbouring Wi-Fi channels changed frequencies. My resolve was to shutdown 2.4GHz and stay with 5GHz which has zero penetration from competing Wi-Fi systems in my house. Further scanning of neighbouring Wi-Fi units indicates that their power is cycling. It has me thinking that they're suffering from the same congestion of competing 2.4Ghz systems and cycling like mine was. It's worth checking out and I'd compatible with other name brands. It also gives the user opportunity to check coverage throughout service area with its various settings menus and refresh rates. I discovered that 5Ghz was sufficient in coverage and faster but had to upgrade a couple of devices that were incompatible with 5Ghz.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.netgear.WiFiAnalytics
Wi-Fi calling is much improved in lollipop as well. Battery is about the same as KK with Xposed so I'd say the Xposed incompatibility with TW isn't that bad with lollipop's battery saving. Google could improve by not allowing browsers and Google Music to continue to run in background after user is done.
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Well at the same time, did you look at possibly putting a homebrew style firmware on your router to expand your channel options? I used DD-WRT for years for similar issues. but you can easily lock your wifi to a different channel thats way to one extreme of the band you are using (5ghz its typically not needed). paticularly the channels that all these "all in one" modem/router/wifi boxs don't include by default. I do a wifi survey (built into my routers *ASUS N66u and N56u*) and check for channels before I decide on channels/bands. I feel this could help everyone achieve the same results. In highly populated/saturated areas. Your best bet tends to be 5ghz, simply because its penetration is horrible compared to 2.4ghz. Just my 2cents.
Agreed.
For the density of this neighborhood, 2.4Ghz is a wash, especially with their auto-channel changes. BTW, Netgear's auto-mode is dysfunctional in my environment; fixed channel was better but not a permanent solution; I could fix it temporarily by selecting a fixed less congested channel with less but that proved to be a moving target.
I considered the open source firmware but 11AC's beamforming is not yet mature in open source for proprietary reasons. Even reading the forums on my device didn't comfort me that theirs was any better, having the same problems.
I was considering moving to a Linksys AC router considering the advice of said support avenues but the option I gave works well despite the coverage of 5GHz, the beamforming gives quality and speed at slightly lower power than 2.4Ghz provides with its spread spectrum approach. The app's test results suggested that and the result is no more cycling the connection and buffering. I can stream high resolution video via upstairs Wi-Fi to living room downstairs without buffering and pausing and restarting is no longer the issue I had with 2.4Ghz or dual mode. Dual mode would still cycle the whole Wi-Fi connection when penetration occurred as previously stated. Single mode 5Ghz is a working solution for me.
The advantage of having the mobile app is seeing your coverage vs penetration in various places. What I saw suggests I could troubleshoot my neighbors Wi-Fi issues; their problems with cycling wasn't varying penetration, I could still it cycling at the edges of my yard, closer to the source.