For those of you who have tried the wireless charging mod for the T889 version of the SGN2, do you get a voltage drop across the receiver coils with the phone not charging on the Touchstone but powered up? What about NOT charging but powered off? I'm just wondering if the missing hardware controller shuts off power to the receiver coil when the phone is not in wireless charging mode. Do you notice a drop in battery usage time or no drop at all?
Anyone have access to the N7100 version that can verify this?
I'm contemplating applying this mod, but I also want some control over when the receiver coil is active. [I was hoping to post this under the developer thread started by Vinas1, but don't have posting rights to that area yet. I need to pay my dues with 10 posts]
Wireless charging is not much current. I think around standard usb current which is 500mah. The stock charger is 2000mah (2amps). So that means when in wireless charging if you have the screen on it will most likely not charge but keep it at whatever percent it is currently at. If you are doing anything else as well like GPS you can expect it to drain on wireless charging.
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Hello,
I have the i747 with the Jedi Invasion ROM and i'm using a wireless qi charger. The problem is that if I leave the phone on top of the wireless charger after a couple of hours it gets too hot. Anyone else is having a similar overheating problem with a wireless charging?
gabrielcab said:
Hello,
I have the i747 with the Jedi Invasion ROM and i'm using a wireless qi charger. The problem is that if I leave the phone on top of the wireless charger after a couple of hours it gets too hot. Anyone else is having a similar overheating problem with a wireless charging?
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I have the same problem stock. Get the pop-up message: "Charging paused, temperature too high" or something like that.
Looks like a charger problem. Did you touch n see the surface you put phone on? If I can think straight, wireless charging happens by magnetic induction method, and this tends to heat the coils that turn this energy into electric energy needed for charging. Did you check with the manufacturer?
diablo009 said:
Looks like a charger problem. Did you touch n see the surface you put phone on? If I can think straight, wireless charging happens by magnetic induction method, and this tends to heat the coils that turn this energy into electric energy needed for charging. Did you check with the manufacturer?
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It is true, my problem was the charger. I bought a new "nokia" charger with the new slim qi pad and now my cell phone is not overheating.
Hey guys,
Since the OPO has NFC I'm assuming wireless charging will work... What are some good and cheap wireless charging options?
Thanks!
NFC and wireless charging are two completely different things. You could add wireless charging via a universal QI receiver but that's it
freestylejunki32 said:
NFC and wireless charging are two completely different things. You could add wireless charging via a universal QI receiver but that's it
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Ohh didnt realize that! So would I just need a QI receiver and I can put my phone on it? Or do I need a special case for my phone?
You need a wireless charger receiver, you will lose the USB port, when you want to use USB you will have to take the case off and take the charger plug out.
Since it's pretty thin you can use any case, or none (Maybe not metal cases).
You also need a wireless sender, this is the pad that the phone sits on.
Notes: Since these are only 500ma (have not found a pad > 500) and with less efficiency (so its actually less than 500ma), it will take a very long time to charge the phone. I dont even know if its able to keep up with the power requirements of the phone if it's in use.
Powerbot chargers are supposed to put out 1000mah. I think its partially dependent on the actual charging cord plugged into the qi charger though
freestylejunki32 said:
Powerbot chargers are supposed to put out 1000mah. I think its partially dependent on the actual charging cord plugged into the qi charger though
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that is true. all parts need to be compatible to get a decent charge rate. i had a charger that put out 2amps and a cord that supported it too but most receivers put out 500-750mah which results in a slow charge. and i havent found a decent receiver yet either. Most of them are really finicky and need to have the phone placed just right on the receiver for it to charge.
Greetings,
I'm have a LG v10 H901 with this wireless charging sticker installed:
"LG V10 Receiver ,Monoy Ultra-thin Qi Standard Wireless Charger Charging Receiver Module for LG V10 (LG V10 Receiver)"
(search this in amazon, I am unable to post links as I am a new user)
However am experiencing very odd behavior, when I place the device on a charging pad the screen turns on and it says the device is charging, however the device will begin to lose charge at a faster rate then normal!
I am very confused by this... Does anyone know what might cause such a thing or how to fix it?
(note: I'm running stock MM that is rooted and has TWRP, if that makes a difference)
~BinaryBench
Install an app like Ampere and check how much current is going in your phone. Generally, wireless charging is not going to give you more than 500mA, which is not enough. Your phone is probably using more current than the wireless charger is able to provide.
Ok, I ran that app while charing with USB, charging with wireless and without charging, this is what I got:
Charging with USB: 530 mA (not quick charge, just normal USB)
Charging with Wireless: Not Charging
Without charging: -230 mA
Any ideas why the wireless charger is giving "Not Charging"? Even if it's there's not enough power it should do something correct?
Hi there everyone,
I have been trying to get my Nexus 7 2013 installed into my car seamlessly without problems since December 2015. I have Timur's Kernel v4 (6.0.1) running on it, and it was working flawlessly.
However, I decided that the no battery mod needed to be done as I just could not leave that battery inside a hot car - way too risky.
So, I did the Kevdav no battery mod - with success.
However, once the battery connection was receiving 5v via a usb car charger the OTG cable connected to the tablet's mini usb port would not wake/suspend the tablet properly. It would wake it up, but once it was awake the little battery icon at the top would forever show that it was 'charging' and once power was cut to the otg y cable / mini usb, it would not suspend (would still show as charging).
I did research, and bought a Drok DC-DC step down converter. I lowered the voltage to the battery mod connection to 3.7v (and tested up to 4.7v) and this alleviated the problem of suspend/wake. I think since the original battery gave out less voltage then the otg/charging connection, this needed to be replicated in order for the otg to work.
However, I now have a new problem that I cannot seem to fix. This problem only seems to happen in the car and does not occur when testing it in the house using normal wall chargers.
For clarity, this is how everything is wired up in the car.
Nexus 7 battery mod side of things:
Nexus 7 battery terminals > 22awg usb cable > drok dc dc step down power supply (this board has a female usb port for output) set at 3.7v (tested up to 4.7v) > input is connected to car's constant 12v connected directly to battery on a fused wire.
Nexus 7 mini usb port side of things:
Nexus 7 mini usb port > usb otg y cable > mini usb cable > 2.4a usb car cig adapter hardwired to car's switched 12v accessory wire.
The link to the drok dc dc step down is this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FDBY66Y/ref=twister_B01GO268W6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I turn on acc ignition to send power to the otg connection. It'll power up. However, if left in standby overnight the tablet won't power up. If I physically press the tablet's power button it'll wake up, show the wake up animation, and react as normal (including any subsequent power downs). However, if I don't press the power button and I turn off the ign again, an icon on my car's instrument cluster will be faintly illuminated - this is odd behaviour and should be completely out. When this is the case, if I get out and try to lock the car the remote central locking doesn't work.
This light will go out if I physically disconnect the otg y cable from the tablet, and low and behold the remote central locking works.
I'm no expert on electronics and such, but it seems to me that power may be flooding back into the OTG connection from the no battery mod power?
Does this make sense? Sorry for the long question, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with troubleshooting or any advice? I've this one problem and then I'm set but I just can't seem to figure anything out and need someone's advice who is in the know rather than take wild stabs in the dark using my own logic because if I do the latter, not only will I waste money on needless components but I'll more than likely break something. I've read stuff about diodes or something in order to regulate power flow but I'm not even sure I'm using the correct terminology here so if anyone can tell me I'm onto something here or I'm talking complete nonsense then anything is appreciated!
I did search these forums and google but I really cannot find anything that is similar to my problem.
Thanks for any input guys, whether it be any tips on what I'm missing or what I need to change (software or hardware, electrical, etc) - it's all very much appreciated.
Antony
Edit: so sorry I think I posted this is the wrong n7 2013 sub section. I can't delete the post but if a mod could please kindly move it to the relevant forum I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
antc101 said:
it seems to me that power may be flooding back into the OTG connection from the no battery mod power?
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Hi, indeed, and your "2.4a usb car cig adapter hardwired to car's switched 12v accessory wire" requires a small mod to prevent the power feedback. It needs an extra 1A+ diode connected directly to 12V input. You could modify the adapter's PCB or simply replace the fuse's internal wire with a diode where its cathode goes to the spring and its anode to 12V input. Or just place the diode somewhere along the adapter's hardwire. $0.16 1N4001 is good enough ([email protected] is OK for [email protected]).
Not sure if thread is still active but I also have the same symptom with tablet turning off completely overnight. I am running constant 12v to 3.7v dc to dc on battery input and car adapter 12v to 5v on microusb cable in. Tablet will work fine with on and off but after car is shutdown for the night it will not turn on in the morning. It shows me battery charge icon only. I dont have diode installed either. Not sure if thats the cause. Anyone know why it would completly shutdown overnight?
Neo2020Marz said:
Not sure if thread is still active but I also have the same symptom with tablet turning off completely overnight. I am running constant 12v to 3.7v dc to dc on battery input and car adapter 12v to 5v on microusb cable in. Tablet will work fine with on and off but after car is shutdown for the night it will not turn on in the morning. It shows me battery charge icon only. I dont have diode installed either. Not sure if thats the cause. Anyone know why it would completly shutdown overnight?
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Hi there,
Been a while since I posted on this thread but just wanted to update on what I have done so far.
Since my last post, I don't have any issues. I placed a diode as mentioned above on the +12v for the accessory power. This seemed to have fixed any back flow of power.
Concerning the power off over night, I'm pretty sure this was something to do with Timur's kernel. I forever had issues with that thing - eg, suspect and wake issues, accessories connected to my usb hub..
I switched to a stock version of android 6.0.1 - MOB30X if memory serves... and installed Elemental X version 5.16. No issues with this setup what so ever.
Huh.
I run my Nexus 7 on my car with the battery, mounted just above the dashboard, with direct sunlight exposition and no UV film on the windshield. It's been a whole year without issues, thank God.
https://i.imgur.com/cPNhDDc.jpg
I live in the Northeast of Brazil, where's 30C to 40C through the year. Sometimes I come up to the car and the tablet shut off due to the heat.
Battery still lasts wonders and there's no signs of damage.. yet.
Is it really adamant to remove the battery, or is it just a precautionary measure?
GTMoraes said:
Huh.
I run my Nexus 7 on my car with the battery, mounted just above the dashboard, with direct sunlight exposition and no UV film on the windshield. It's been a whole year without issues, thank God.
https://i.imgur.com/cPNhDDc.jpg
I live in the Northeast of Brazil, where's 30C to 40C through the year. Sometimes I come up to the car and the tablet shut off due to the heat.
Battery still lasts wonders and there's no signs of damage.. yet.
Is it really adamant to remove the battery, or is it just a precautionary measure?
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Click to collapse
You better have more luck.
My nexus was put under the dash and was fine for around 3 years. And it became expanded in just 2 days, separating the screen and the case. So I have urgently remove the battery.
Has anyone tried using wireless charging receiver pad, like this one for example, with their Max 3? I'm curious if it'd work with the metal body in the first place. Additionally, I wonder if using wireless charging receiver pad would cause the battery to overheat and bloat...I had some bad experience with Mi Mix in the past doing that - wireless charging worked, but over the course of few months battery swell up to a point it was bulging out, and cracked open the back cover, even though it was supposed to be unremovable.
If anyone has actually tried using it with their Max 3 - would appreciate some feedback.
It depends if there is a controller chip inside this unit or if its just feeding strait power from the charger?
If so then there is no limitation in output power and that might be whats causing the failing battery.
If there was a controller the power would start low, add up to around 1A and then lower it self to 700ma and so on when the percentage gets higher.
If theres just strait power it would just keep pumping no mather what the state of the charge is
SUPERUSER said:
It depends if there is a controller chip inside this unit or if its just feeding strait power from the charger?
If so then there is no limitation in output power and that might be whats causing the failing battery.
If there was a controller the power would start low, add up to around 1A and then lower it self to 700ma and so on when the percentage gets higher.
If theres just strait power it would just keep pumping no mather what the state of the charge is
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2nd picture on the left for this one and 4th picture on the left for this one - is that the controller chip we're talking about?
So many people got their Max 3 already...Was hoping by now someone would try a receiver pad and post feedback