it just stopped working just like that...then i reflashed it n im stuck in the first screen where it says "tap to start" n i cant even tap now...anyone has any idea of how i can fix it at home...cuz its a lot of hassle to send it abroad...thank u
touch screen replacement
I had the same problem on my Universal and opened it to find out what happened.
I found the cable connecting the LCD and touch screen completely twisted.
Someone has played with it turning the screen in the same direction for many times without unscrewing it every time.
I manged to fix it partially soldering some wires that had gone loose.
Some wires were impossible to handle so I need a new wiring cable (it's a bunch of single ultra-tiny wires).
Now screen, mike and headpiece work again, but not the touch screen.
Do you have any idea if such a spare part can be found anywhere?
Possibly that would solve also your problem.
Who can have spare-parts?
Mario
Hmm....
Actually, not only the flex cable is originally twisted and looks funny out of the factory, you cannot turn the screen in the same direction more than it should be turned (e.g. from opened clamshell it only goes 180 degrees clockwise and cannot be turned anti-clockwise other than returning into its original position), it is stopped from turning by the way the hinge is designed. It is done specifically to prevent just the thing you described.
Generally even when some wires detach, the cable still performs fine, as the wires are not isolated and bunched together, as long as they do not detach from the connector itself. The fraying can happen when the flex cable is reinserted into the main case too roughly or one time too many, as the opening is fairly small and both cables need to be bent a certain way to fit through and pulled through in a particular sequence. Your problem could be caused by a faulty digitizer, it is connected to an LCD and if LCD performs fine, yet you lost sensitivity, the problem is not with your flex cable.
Cables can be purchased on Ebay. And so can digitizers (they are around $17-$20, but you need soldering to get them fitted to your LCD).
When I disassembled my xperia play for the first time,
the screen digitizer was damaged by my mistake.
I can't sure that, but I guess it can be.
At that time,
the bottom of screen (about 1/3?) didn't work.
So I bought the screen digitizer,
and replace it today.
But the problem hasn't been solved all the way.
If separate into 6 parts the screen from top.
(For example the top part is 1st part.
And beneath 1st part is 2nd part.)
5th parts doesn't work.
But the bottom 6th part works well.
I don't want to buy else new screen digitizer.
Please let me know how to use my xperia play with any problems.
Please help me.
Thanks about reading my thread.
Jaehyeok Koo said:
When I disassembled my xperia play for the first time,
the screen digitizer was damaged by my mistake.
I can't sure that, but I guess it can be.
At that time,
the bottom of screen (about 1/3?) didn't work.
So I bought the screen digitizer,
and replace it today.
But the problem hasn't been solved all the way.
If separate into 6 parts the screen from top.
(For example the top part is 1st part.
And beneath 1st part is 2nd part.)
5th parts doesn't work.
But the bottom 6th part works well.
I don't want to buy else new screen digitizer.
Please let me know how to use my xperia play with any problems.
Please help me.
Thanks about reading my thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure it's digitizer problem? Maybe it's flex
I had similiar problem, but in my case whole touchscreen didn't work and it happened randomly on reboot
It turns out that when i was repairing my usb port i somehow didn't place flex cable properly and it was bended over that metal part of slider.
Once i reopen it (only the part with motherboard on it) and place flex cable properly, touchscreen started to work normaly
How old is your Play? When you opened it, does flex cable looks damaged?
Where did you buy your digitizer? If it was from eBay, you could ask for a replacement from the seller you bought it from.
Like Bakisha, it could be the flex cable. If you know the digitizer is working, it usually is the flex cable.
Bakisha said:
Are you sure it's digitizer problem? Maybe it's flex
I had similiar problem, but in my case whole touchscreen didn't work and it happened randomly on reboot
It turns out that when i was repairing my usb port i somehow didn't place flex cable properly and it was bended over that metal part of slider.
Once i reopen it (only the part with motherboard on it) and place flex cable properly, touchscreen started to work normaly
How old is your Play? When you opened it, does flex cable looks damaged?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In fact, the flex cable of my xperia play looks a bit little.
The black color had been painted on cable wear a little.
So do you recommend me to replace flex cable?
RoboticBuddy said:
Where did you buy your digitizer? If it was from eBay, you could ask for a replacement from the seller you bought it from.
Like Bakisha, it could be the flex cable. If you know the digitizer is working, it usually is the flex cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I ask for sending normal item without any problem again, should I send to seller the screen digitizer ?
Jaehyeok Koo said:
In fact, the flex cable of my xperia play looks a bit little.
The black color had been painted on cable wear a little.
So do you recommend me to replace flex cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, you could open your Play and see if flex cable properly placed. Open slider and put that white plastic inside metal frame. Put back dpad part of phone back, but keep an eye on that white plastic, it have two holes in motherboard to go into, then screw those two screws on motherboard (so it will make flex cable plug in motherboard - look if jack is now properly inserted
Close it and try it.
If you again have problems with touchscreen, then you have two options. Replace flex or replace digitizer. It's hard to say wich is faulty...
Sent from my R800i using xda app-developers app
Hello!
So I've been an idiot. I tried to replace the broken USB charging circuit - which went fine. Until I discovered the volume buttons' connectors just dangling there. To my horror I forgot the volume key having no connector, but actually being soldered onto the motherboard.
I thought I could re-solder, but I managed to rip off clean the connectors, much like in this picture: http://imgur.com/Hg1in1Z.
Note the two on the right. All three came off clean like that.
Can I fix it?
I can change the volume using the software fine, but this seriously will make going into recovery a LOT harder.
Is it possible to boot straight into recovery from the device being off but charging via USB?
Is it still safe to let CM11 handle the updating process for which it boots into recovery itself, installs and then reboots?
I feel stupid for forgetting the only thing I could actually permanently damage, since everything else is a connector.
RainbowSwag said:
Hello!
So I've been an idiot. I tried to replace the broken USB charging circuit - which went fine. Until I discovered the volume buttons' connectors just dangling there. To my horror I forgot the volume key having no connector, but actually being soldered onto the motherboard.
I thought I could re-solder, but I managed to rip off clean the connectors, much like in this picture: http://imgur.com/Hg1in1Z.
Note the two on the right. All three came off clean like that.
Can I fix it?
I can change the volume using the software fine, but this seriously will make going into recovery a LOT harder.
Is it possible to boot straight into recovery from the device being off but charging via USB?
Is it still safe to let CM11 handle the updating process for which it boots into recovery itself, installs and then reboots?
I feel stupid for forgetting the only thing I could actually permanently damage, since everything else is a connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If that is the picture of your circuit board then it appears that you may be in for some bad news. What you have actually pulled off is the pads that make connection to the circuits. Without those pads intact you will not be able to get a connection and therefore will not be able to salvage your volume buttons. I am not an expert however I have a few years experience soldering small electronics for an automotive supplier and we would scrap any board that had the pads pulled off. Oh and don't beat yourself up too bad, those pads are very easy to pull off, it just sucks that it happened on your GN.
ThePhantom97 said:
If that is the picture of your circuit board then it appears that you may be in for some bad news. What you have actually pulled off is the pads that make connection to the circuits. Without those pads intact you will not be able to get a connection and therefore will not be able to salvage your volume buttons. I am not an expert however I have a few years experience soldering small electronics for an automotive supplier and we would scrap any board that had the pads pulled off. Oh and don't beat yourself up too bad, those pads are very easy to pull off, it just sucks that it happened on your GN.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not my picture, but does represent the damage quite damn well. I tried finding ways to solder broken pads and there was only hope if leads were visible, which are not for this board (except for ground). I think I am out of luck this time.
Thanks for the fast reply!
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
http://www.witrigs.com/media/catalo...a71cb48e3d52cb890e76f9e6353/1/0/109063-01.jpg
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
bookfast said:
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
http://www.witrigs.com/media/catalo...a71cb48e3d52cb890e76f9e6353/1/0/109063-01.jpg
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there. Interesting to know that you replaced it all your self . Did you put everything back perfectly ? I mean the display being aligned properly to the body, the speaker grills being flushed with the body; ? Weird to ask, but did you damage anything while doing it all yourself ? Like the screen scratches, or something else ? Sorry, for asking these... Thanks in advance :good:
Tej XFire said:
Hey there. Interesting to know that you replaced it all your self . Did you put everything back perfectly ? I mean the display being aligned properly to the body, the speaker grills being flushed with the body; ? Weird to ask, but did you damage anything while doing it all yourself ? Like the screen scratches, or something else ? Sorry, for asking these... Thanks in advance :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't re-glued the speaker covers back on yet so I dont know if they will be perfectly flush or not, although they still look flat so I think it will look good.
The only damage is a slight bend in the frame on the screen side of the sim tray slot. The metal is thin, and I pried against it to get the hardware out of the frame. That is why I recommended to start from the bottom when separating the two. Doing this should allow others to avoid this problem. It is slight, maybe 1/4mm gap where it used to be flush along the side of the screen above the sim tray.
Otherwise everything was smooth. The screen/frame etc are still mint.
bookfast said:
I haven't re-glued the speaker covers back on yet so I dont know if they will be perfectly flush or not, although they still look flat so I think it will look good.
The only damage is a slight bend in the frame on the screen side of the sim tray slot. The metal is thin, and I pried against it to get the hardware out of the frame. That is why I recommended to start from the bottom when separating the two. Doing this should allow others to avoid this problem. It is slight, maybe 1/4mm gap where it used to be flush along the side of the screen above the sim tray.
Otherwise everything was smooth. The screen/frame etc are still mint.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, you've done it like a pro then. :good: .Any picture describing the damage would be helpful, if you can provide. Is the display mint ? No scuffs/scratches on it ? But, my speaker grills were damaged onto the edges after the repair was carried out. Does yours show the same sign ? I don't mean the flatness of the grills, but the damage that should be done, while prying out the grills. A picture showing your damage would be helpful to me. I could do the same, if you insist. Thanks ! :good:
Mine is busted. But I cannot find the PCB. The link in the op is dead.
Any ideas?
http://www.witrigs.com/oem-charging-port-flex-for-htc-one-m8
bookfast said:
http://www.witrigs.com/oem-charging-port-flex-for-htc-one-m8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually got one off eBay for $17.21. Works perfectly.
Just wondering....
Sounds like you were able to avoid some steps in the teardown guide, if I recall it was damn near a total disassemble. Do you have a lot of experience with phones? I want to fix mine, but don't need a tedious project right now. If I repair mine I'd like to put a mini USB in place of the micro if possible, I've seen too many damaged micro usb to trust or like them. As for the speaker grills, if you're picky buy replacements, they're cheap.
microphone on charging port?
bookfast said:
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
link
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My HTC M8's main call microphone has stopped working, and through searches on Google it seems that perhaps that this mic (first mic, non-speakerphone mic) is built into the charging port. Is this the case? I cannot find anything that explicitly says this, and I'd love to get the phone back in working condition.
dm8233 said:
My HTC M8's main call microphone has stopped working, and through searches on Google it seems that perhaps that this mic (first mic, non-speakerphone mic) is built into the charging port. Is this the case? I cannot find anything that explicitly says this, and I'd love to get the phone back in working condition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too am also curious if the mic is on the usb part because my mic doesnt wrk when i make calls.
Will replacing the usb port fix the problem?
Harvey02 said:
I too am also curious if the mic is on the usb part because my mic doesnt wrk when i make calls.
Will replacing the usb port fix the problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I called HTC, the mic is on the USB port, although you should make sure that it's not a software issue first. There are several threads on the internet easily found through Google which discuss doing a factory reset to resolve this if it turns out to be a software problem.
Thanks for your reply. I did a factory reset when I got the phone but it still doesn't work. Does that mean it's not a software problem and that if I replace the usb it should work?
Harvey02 said:
Thanks for your reply. I did a factory reset when I got the phone but it still doesn't work. Does that mean it's not a software problem and that if I replace the usb it should work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would think so, yes.
Thanks! Do you know of any online source confirming that?
Harvey02 said:
Thanks! Do you know of any online source confirming that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, but from what I've studied about it, it should work. Feel free to contact HTC, they actually have a live chat available somewhere on their website. Good luck to you.
Very interesting, I contacted htc and we went through diagnostics together and the rep said that I have to send it in. I asked him if the mic was on the usb assembly and he said that it wasn't and rather it was on the motherboard, and I clarified that we were talking about the primary mic which is located near the usb port. Confusing bec everywhere I saw online said that the mic is on the usb assembly. Go figure!
Harvey02 said:
Very interesting, I contacted htc and we went through diagnostics together and the rep said that I have to send it in. I asked him if the mic was on the usb assembly and he said that it wasn't and rather it was on the motherboard, and I clarified that we were talking about the primary mic which is located near the usb port. Confusing bec everywhere I saw online said that the mic is on the usb assembly. Go figure!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you end up doing? Did you discover if it was on the motherboard or the part with the USB port? I've waited a while to repair mine for other reasons, and I am now prepared to fix it. Any information would be helpful.
Just a few notes on my own experience.
I replaced the screen in my friend's M8 a few months ago. Seemed like everything went ok, except after I got done, the mic didn't work anymore. This is strange because it worked fine before, and all I did was remove/replace the circuit board in the process (yes, the small one at the bottom with the uUSB port). However, the upper rear microphone was still working I believe, because people on the other end of the line could still hear if the phone was put into speakerphone mode. I don't know why it would stop working all of a sudden.... Ran the HTC audio test using *#*#3424*#* to confirm main mic wasn't working and that the aux rear mic was.
Fast forward to this week, with my own M8. The uUSB connector was going bad, and I was having trouble charging, so I figured it was time to replace that circuit board. Ordered a new one and replaced, but when I got it back together, the USB port was fine of course, but my mic wasn't working now, just like my friends! On top of that, the headphone jack didn't work at all. Most likely the "cable inserted" signal wasn't getting back up to the motherboard, but didn't check. So pissed off. Also, the new board I got didn't have the bottom left RF connector/circuitry populated. Thinking from research that it might be for the GPS? I should have tested when the board was in there, but didn't. Fixed a bad solder joint on the original board's uUSB connector, which helped, but still charging is a bit messed up. I'd rather have a working mic and headphone jack and have to play with the cable to get to charge for a while until I get another board (from another supplier, jerks).
Yes, the mic is the small chip on the very left side of the board. It has a hole underneath the chip, going through the board and to the front face to receive the acoustics.
I don't know why the mic not working is so common after an HTC One M8 tear down, as it seems many others are having the same issue. One theory I have is that pulling the circuit board from the motherboard while power is still applied (not unplugging the battery first) might be jacking the microphone somehow. Just a theory, but I'd recommend to be safe that anyone replacing the board should unplug the battery cable before replacing the USB/mic circuit board.
I'd just like to chime in to say that I've read about some people having problems with the mic not working after replacing the USB board. From what I understand, there are two different versions of it, and replacing it with the wrong one can cause that very issue. You should look into it.
EDIT: Source - http://www.witrigs.com/blog/htc-one-m8-audio-jack-not-work-after-charging-board-replacement/
Mic broken after USB repair
Old thread but I have the same problem. Replaced USB board and now my mic does not work. However I am pretty certain I did order the correct board (had 2x connectors for my Verizon HTC m8). And my microphone jack work great which others indicate is often broken along with the mic. Anyone have any workarounds?