Develop Bugs

Otterbox Beltclip Modded into Car Mount -learn with me

I couldn't find a mount for my otterbox. I built a car mount and painted it black. I ended up making it from the belt clip on my otterbox and an old garmin window-mounted GPS. Here's some pictures of the build process.
My first attempt was to try to fiberglass the outside of the otterbox to make a mount....
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This ended up being too much work and I came up with a better idea.
1 remove belt clip portion from otterbox
2. Saw down Otterbox beltclip so that the unit can be slid into place with USB cable
3. slide phone into otterbox case and insert USB.
4. first superglue USB in proper position, then epoxy for extra hard durability
5. saw back part off of old window mounted unit
6. superglue back plate in place
7. epoxy backplate in place
Ok... so now for power... I used a USB port and a regulator... This was an epic failure because pins 2 and 3 on the USB port should have been pulled HIGH to represent this is a charging device. I left them open and the unit appeared to go into USB Powered device mode where my phone was supplying 5V to the charger..... Anyways... this would have worked if I had read up on USB standards first but I ended up going with a 12V adapter stuck into a 12V socket in my ceiling.
Circuit made (should have added a resistor from 5V to the middle two pins)
Covered with non-conductive, flexible glue to keep everything in place and make sure it would not be able to short circuit.
Finally I painted the entire thing black. It looks great now. Everything is wonderful. After 3 days of drying it was able to be used.

I forgot to add finished photos.
The unit separates so the suction cup mount can be adjusted easily.
You can see on the back, it's not too bad once it's painted
This large cutout allows the otterbox cable cover to be opened and just slide right in.
Now, if I had this to do over again, I would have applied a 619Kohm resistor between pins 4 and 5 on the mini-usb. This would have enabled car mode. Car mode automatically brings up car home. As it is, this is simply a car-charger circuit.
Overall, this project is awesome!. This allows me to have my phone mounted above eye-level which is great for GPS

http://cgi.ebay.com/SlipGrip-Car-Ho...658168?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item5d2cdd48f8

please dont spam that ebay crap. this is a homemade-how-to!

That thing is big, and has no charging capability.
If you took the belt clip off and put on suction cup instead, that's what you get from that Ebay link. There's no charging capability there. Mine has about 2-3 inches of exposed cable. The rest is tucked neatly into the headboards of the car.

TRusselo said:
please dont spam that ebay crap. this is a homemade-how-to!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm im not spamming anything. He stated that he couldn't find a car mount for the outterbox case. Was just posting it for reference. Just giving my 2cent's or w/e they call them up north. No need to get nasty.
I appreciate what he's done and for the walkthru. Everyone has their own opinions and if someone happens upon this post in the future and in interested in a carmount for a otterbox they can follow OP's wonderful how-to and they will have more options...
Just trying to be helpful to be honest.

How easily does the phone slide in and connect with the usb? I've been thinking of how to make a dock that you slide in similar to yours, but been worried how quickly/simply it works (i often have a difficult time plugging it in even after owning it for half a year!).
I also kinda wanted to make the usb mount adjustable in case I took the phone's case off or used a different case all together. Any ideas on that, or is the permanent epoxy mount the way to go?
Nice job and thanks for posting it!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

I slides in easy. The phone must just be against the back of the dock and slid into place. It's one hand operation unlike using a USB cable.
Just super glue the connector in place and let it dry. Once it dries, it will always be in the right position. Then you can remove the phone and apply epoxy to really strengthen the connector.
I don't know how you'd make the mount adjustable. I really just made this because there's no car dock available for the Otter Box.
Again, for full dock capability, use a 619Kohm resistor on the back side of the micro usb connection, between pins 4 and 5.

Thanks for the help

AdamOutler said:
Ok... so now for power... I used a USB port and a regulator... This was an epic failure because pins 2 and 3 on the USB port should have been pulled HIGH to represent this is a charging device. I left them open and the unit appeared to go into USB Powered device mode where my phone was supplying 5V to the charger..... Anyways... this would have worked if I had read up on USB standards first but I ended up going with a 12V adapter stuck into a 12V socket in my ceiling.
Circuit made (should have added a resistor from 5V to the middle two pins)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pins on usb should have been "pulled high"? care to clearify, ive never heard of that term..
with the middle 2 pins open wouldn;t it be the same as powering by USB thru aftermarket charger? I modded my aftermarket charger, pins 2-3 were open, i closed them ( no resistor ) and now it thinks its AC (oem charger).
why would yours output 5v to the cable?
just asking not criticizing...

TRusselo said:
pins on usb should have been "pulled high"? care to clearify, ive never heard of that term..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I do electronics for a living, I use jargon without explaining alot and it looses people.
Pulling a pin high means to apply 5V behind a resistor. It's a digital logic term. Digital logic has only 2 states, high and low (sometimes a 3rd state is Open). In order to maintain a high state on a pin, you use a pull-up resistor. If you've got voltage without current flow, then ohms law does not apply and 5V behind a resistor will be 5V on the other side of the resistor. The reason for the resistor is because if for some reason the pin is pulled low (ground is applied) then there is not a short between 5V and ground.
with the middle 2 pins open wouldn;t it be the same as powering by USB thru aftermarket charger? I modded my aftermarket charger, pins 2-3 were open, i closed them ( no resistor ) and now it thinks its AC (oem charger).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's an excerpt from a good page on USB. http://www.beyondlogic.org/usbnutshell/usb2.shtml
A USB device must indicate its speed by pulling either the D+ or D- line high to 3.3 volts. A full speed device, pictured below will use a pull up resistor attached to D+ to specify itself as a full speed device. These pull up resistors at the device end will also be used by the host or hub to detect the presence of a device connected to its port. Without a pull up resistor, USB assumes there is nothing connected to the bus. Some devices have this resistor built into its silicon, which can be turned on and off under firmware control, others require an external resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why would yours output 5v to the cable?
just asking not criticizing...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really couldn't tell you. I just know I did a search and found out that my charger violated USB standards. Also, when unplugged from wall power, I was receiving 5V on the charger which was illuminating an LED. Don't just leave those pins open. Pull them high.

why would you have to set device speed for a charging circuit?
the usb standards seemed to be assuming a data device (whether it be a mouse or hdd), not just something charging...
and why not close the pins, and enable (poorly worded) "AC" charging mode, for rapid charging?
or add the resistor between the 2 to enable car dock mode automatically?

In Battery Charging Specification, [40] new powering modes are added to the USB specification. A host or hub Charging Downstream Port can supply a maximum of 1.5 A when communicating at low-bandwidth or full-bandwidth, a maximum of 900 mA when communicating at high-bandwidth, and as much current as the connector will safely handle when no communication is taking place; USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1500 mA by default. A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8 A of current at 5.25 V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8 A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200 Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Source: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
I've personally done this to all manner of chargers, including external batteries, car chargers, wall chargers, even made a small make to female dongle that shorts the data pins. All that matters is that the pins being shorted indicates to the phone that it may draw > 500ma, I believe the most this particular device will draw is around 750ma. Note that if this is done, the phone will always indicate ac charging, even if the actual charger is supplying less current.
Also, the desk/car mode resistor goes between pins 4 and 5, not 3 and 4 for those who are wondering
Forgot to mention, nice mod. I have some spare otterbox holsters (they sent me three when my clip broke) so I've got some plans for them, including a car dock.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA Premium App

TRusselo said:
why would you have to set device speed for a charging circuit?
the usb standards seemed to be assuming a data device (whether it be a mouse or hdd), not just something charging...
and why not close the pins, and enable (poorly worded) "AC" charging mode, for rapid charging?
or add the resistor between the 2 to enable car dock mode automatically?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yep. makes sense.
The 6 to 24V regulator would handle a maximum of 1A, which is what you can expect out of most wall chargers and well above the expected input of the device. I just trashed my regulator/USB project when it started powering my 12V bench power supply LED for fear it may damage the phone. If anyone wants to recreate this, the 5V regulator is available at Radio Shack and you'll have to either tear apart a charger/computer/other device or order a USB port. I installed a 12V port near the sunroof in the headliner of my car, then I installed a generic USB car charger and ran a USB cable out of it to my dock.

Cool project. Good to seem someone else using torque. Have you had any success in the 0-60 timing? If i don't dog it, I can get a reading. Once the tires slip, tc kicks in, it is a nogo. (Noticed some updates to the program and t was a complaint on his forum, so I should try again to be fair.)

microUSB to maglock kit?

Ever since I got the S2 I've been a bit concerned about that stupid microUSB port. Unlike the Apple 30 pin on my old iPhone or the Samsung 30 pin on my Galaxy Tab, the microUSB connection seems about as sturdy as a matchstick holding up a house. Standard USB my ass, I'd take something sturdy any day.
Anyways, I figured that with all the microUSB devices supposedly out there, someone would have had to have fixed this by now. Then I searched around and found nothing. Basically what I'm imagining is a simple USB plug that plugs into the connector and expands the USB plug to 4 magnetic connection points similar to the magsafe thing on apple's macbooks or the magnetic cable on the blackberry playbook. You'd then have an adapter on the cable that would snap to the magnetic connector on the phone and allow you to connect the two without stressing your microUSB and also make it faster to get connected.
Is there really nothing like this out there?
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id get a patent on that quickly if i were you.

Too lazy to get it produced myself so I'm just happy if somone does it at all

Wouldn't the magnet interfere with the magnetic sensor of the phone?

KBS720 said:
Wouldn't the magnet interfere with the magnetic sensor of the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Magnetic sensor? You mean the digital compass? Not any more than the Smart Cover would do that for an iPad 2, or any case with a battery lock would do it. Very small magnets we're talking about here, their magnetic effect is next to nothing unless directly paired with another magnet.
Here's the kind of magnet I'd imagine being used:
Aside from the Apple and RIM versions of this, the closest I can think of is the Replug: http://www.replug.com/home.php
Not magnetic, and only for audio. Ofc doesn't have to be magnetic if the concept still works, but pretty much have to be microUSB
If you look at the HTC Rhyme, it comes with a charging dock that uses the more common spring loaded pin connection system: http://img.gfx.no/993/993523/topp1.788x525!.JPG
There are pins on the back of the phone that matches up with the three you can see on the cradle. I would be happy with simply something like that, I just don't like how thin and fragile the microUSB connector is compared to 30 pin connectors

You'd just be replacing one cable with another, kinda pointless if you ask me. MicroUSB seems sturdy enough to me

Joey2o11 said:
You'd just be replacing one cable with another, kinda pointless if you ask me. MicroUSB seems sturdy enough to me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's pretty much a safety feature. No more risk of the USB port bending or anything.
For example, my charger won't reach from the wall socket to my bedside table, so I leave it on the floor. Sometimes when walking around in the morning my foot pulls the cable and yanks my SGS2 across the room. With a magnetic connector like this it would simply disconnect and the phone would stay in pretty much the same place instead of getting dragged around with the cable.

D3_ said:
It's pretty much a safety feature. No more risk of the USB port bending or anything.
For example, my charger won't reach from the wall socket to my bedside table, so I leave it on the floor. Sometimes when walking around in the morning my foot pulls the cable and yanks my SGS2 across the room. With a magnetic connector like this it would simply disconnect and the phone would stay in pretty much the same place instead of getting dragged around with the cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly, furthermore, the microUSB port would be protected from dust and debris, and not have a connector plugged in and out of the thing all the time. Since I got my SII a few weeks ago and started reading up on it I've seen multiple people have microUSB port issues, so it's obviously not that sturdy.
A third benefit would be a universal connector. MicroUSB is technically a universal connector, but take my situation - an iPad 2, Galaxy Tab 7.0 Plus and an SII. Three different connectors for charging and USB. And two of the devices are the same brand! Say what you want about Apple, but when I had an iPhone and an iPad, at least I only needed one charger, one cable. Here I am with two 2011 generation Samsung devices and they're not even compatible. What's even more ironic, Apple has a 30 pin to microUSB adapter now. Where is the Samsung version of that to make the Galaxy Tab microUSB? A magnetic system like this would allow me to plug a magnetic plug into each of my three devices and use the same magnetic cable with them. This could be expanded with receiver adapters - imagine a Apple 30 pin female connector and a magnetic receiver connector all in one small package that would turn any iPhone dock into a whatever-dock.

Honnestly, production of this could lead to something great. But dont forget that microUSB has 5 pins, so you need 5 small magnet this device could be also made for anyother usb port variant. You would then have an universal usb magnetic port.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium

chadouming said:
Honnestly, production of this could lead to something great. But dont forget that microUSB has 5 pins, so you need 5 small magnet this device could be also made for anyother usb port variant. You would then have an universal usb magnetic port.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does, but only uses 4 of them. The last one triggers USB host mode when connected to ground. Normal sized USB is only 4 pins so where you make that move from 5 to 4 doesn't matter

Cptnodegard said:
It does, but only uses 4 of them. The last one triggers USB host mode when connected to ground. Normal sized USB is only 4 pins so where you make that move from 5 to 4 doesn't matter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Theorically, this pin might become usefull one day better having it already open for possibility
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium

Can I revive this post?
I've been looking for something like this for awhile now and I keep coming back to this post. I'm currently in the process of building a magnetic quick attach micro USB plug, but only for charging. I have bare female and male plugs and some 2mm x 1mm neodymium magnets, and now I just need to create the housing. Probably going to use fimo clay for the prototype.
My biggest problem is creating the connection point between the plug and the receiver. Can't have anything exposed connections on either end, because of electrical shorts and mismatched polarities. Don't need any more fried devices laying around.
The main motivation for this, is charging a phone at night in the dark; it'd make life a little easier. It would also be handy for charging while in the cradle on the dash of a car.
Any ideas or creative input? I'll post photos when I have something to show.

abrahamrobert said:
Can I revive this post?
I've been looking for something like this for awhile now and I keep coming back to this post. I'm currently in the process of building a magnetic quick attach micro USB plug, but only for charging. I have bare female and male plugs and some 2mm x 1mm neodymium magnets, and now I just need to create the housing. Probably going to use fimo clay for the prototype.
My biggest problem is creating the connection point between the plug and the receiver. Can't have anything exposed connections on either end, because of electrical shorts and mismatched polarities. Don't need any more fried devices laying around.
The main motivation for this, is charging a phone at night in the dark; it'd make life a little easier. It would also be handy for charging while in the cradle on the dash of a car.
Any ideas or creative input? I'll post photos when I have something to show.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm always encouraging hardware hacking, and giving a hand if possible, but this is dangerous, and I'll tell you why.
http://www.instructables.com/id/MagSafe-for-the-Rest-of-Us-A-DIY-Magnetic-Power-A/
This is a project that landed on Instuctables a while ago, but the main flaws were these:
)Resistance added by the magnet/copper coupling to attach the two ends, thus heat/other undesirable side effects;
)Sparks, caused by the two sides turning freely.
So, in order to achieve some kind of usability, you would have to ensure that the phone does not provide power to the socket (otherwise you would expose yourself to shorts), and that you could make a rectangular/non-circular plug small enough for it to sit in the micro usb all the time; plus, it should not have a high resistance, so that it would not generate too much heat, slowing down the charge at best, cooking the phone at worst.
All this looks quite complicated to me :/

Guys I thought I would revive this post to any one following or watching, I have also been looking for this and I think our prayers have been answered:
SNAPS Kick starter
I cant post links till i have posted 10 times so search Google for SNAPS Kick Starter
I think this KickStarter is what everyone is looking for. A mag safe type of connector for Micro USB and for Lightning connection. The price is amazing and this is not a concept this is a 'we already have everything just the bigger the first order the better'.
There is also this on Amazon but it only comes with a USB end to plug into a wall wart or computer so if you have a cable inside your car etc you cant convert it you would have to replace it if you can
Again cant post links so search google for "PLESON Premium Magnetic cable Micro USB Cables" it will be on amazon.
I hope this helps everyone and if someone else can post links please do so to these products so others can benefit form them!

Caspan said:
Guys I thought I would revive this post to any one following or watching, I have also been looking for this and I think our prayers have been answered:
SNAPS Kick starter
I cant post links till i have posted 10 times so search Google for SNAPS Kick Starter
I think this KickStarter is what everyone is looking for. A mag safe type of connector for Micro USB and for Lightning connection. The price is amazing and this is not a concept this is a 'we already have everything just the bigger the first order the better'.
There is also this on Amazon but it only comes with a USB end to plug into a wall wart or computer so if you have a cable inside your car etc you cant convert it you would have to replace it if you can
Again cant post links so search google for "PLESON Premium Magnetic cable Micro USB Cables" it will be on amazon.
I hope this helps everyone and if someone else can post links please do so to these products so others can benefit form them!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah.. i found it a week ago, https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1041610927/znaps-the-9-magnetic-adapter-for-your-mobile-devic
but.. they need to answer the questions of security also.. liko that post above of instructables..

this smartphone is horrible, iphone 4s is the best phone of the history , you understand it?!!!

[PROJECT] Any Case Pogo Desktop Charging Dock

[EDIT 16th June 2012 at 05:30 PM] Built v2 of my dock. See this post for details.
[EDIT 3rd June 2012 at 09:30 PM] Woho! Built it. See the bottom of this post for pictures of the finished product + my tweaked SketchUp model based on the actual build.
First I'd like to thank 'chopper the dog' for his excellent [MOD][PROJECT] Pogo Charging Dock thread.
So far, I've only designed this dock in SketchUp - but it's so simple and straightforward that it will work.
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It was important to me to design a dock that is adjustable to any kind of case I may have on my GNex - thus negating the need to remove the case for use. I also wanted a dock that had a small footprint and also looked nice. And finally, it needed to be easy to build (minimal bells + whistles).
Thus, I came up with a system where the pogo pins are fixed on the horizontal plane and 6 adjustable posts hold the GNex in a vertical landscape position above them. Four of the posts (two on each side) prevent the phone from flopping on either of it's faces while positioning it latitudinal. The remaining two posts position the phone longitudinally. This setup will be tedious to initially adjust - but I believe it is a fair tradeoff for ease of build. Indeed, the most complex part of this build is the base-plate, which everything connects to.
FRONT
RIGHT
TOP
BACK
BOTTOM
Finally, for those of you wondering what that extra up-side-down nut and bolt combination is near the middle. It actually adjusts vertically to sit slightly higher than the power button. Thus, you can wake your phone by gently pressing down on the volume side of the device.*
*I got this last idea from a post I read in one of the other dock threads ... wish I could find it to properly thank the originator.
[EDIT] Pictures of the actual build + My SketchUp model based on it.
*I'm sorry it's so ... rough. I need to get myself a drill press. Or maybe a Dremel would do the trick ....

Great mock up you got here! It definitely gave me some ideas to do for my own. I will be sure to follow this one for sure.
One question I have is, how do you plan on securing the adjustable holders to their spot? Are those screws underneath I see?

Yup, those are screws holding the posts in their slots.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA

Great idea and overall, I like the design. Having the adjustable posts is fantastic for taking into account various case designs/thickness
Some tweaks i can see:
* Make the pogo pin height adjustable. Many cases are of differing thickness and should be taken into account
* The phone should probably be angled somewhat, either make the legs adjustable or have a rotating portion in the baseplate
* Allow for wiring of the middle pogo pin. There is some good info here on how to enable desk dock mode and AC charging through the third/middle Pogo pin without custom kernel/NFC tag. You might want to add the needed wiring/electronics to your design for those who want to add the extra pieces.

Great suggestions.
*I have been thinking about how to easily/simply make the pogo pins adjustable - that's definitely something that's required.
*You can either spread the top-back posts to allow the phone to sit loosely at an angle, or just get longer 'foot' posts for the front of the dock.
*That's a good point. And thanks for the awesome link, that thread is fantastic!
Matridom said:
Great idea and overall, I like the design. Having the adjustable posts is fantastic for taking into account various case designs/thickness
Some tweaks i can see:
* Make the pogo pin height adjustable. Many cases are of differing thickness and should be taken into account
* The phone should probably be angled somewhat, either make the legs adjustable or have a rotating portion in the baseplate
* Allow for wiring of the middle pogo pin. There is some good info here on how to enable desk dock mode and AC charging through the third/middle Pogo pin without custom kernel/NFC tag. You might want to add the needed wiring/electronics to your design for those who want to add the extra pieces.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Maaan if this goes on kickstarter for a reasonable price I'm in!
Maybe try and figure out how to add audio by the third pin.

Haha, thanks for the vote of confidence.
If it ever does get to that point, I'd probably just sell pre-cut kits for people to put together with a screw driver.
The link Matridom included in his post pretty much gets you half-way to audio.

Before I saw the underside, I imagined there would be rubber bands between the side retention post pairs to allow for easy placement/removal while keeping tension.
While building my dock I found it was very particular about pogo contact, but once you get it, it stays.
Something to note, since there is no backboard to place an NFC tag on, you will need to manually shift if you want desk dock features. i am digging the simplicity!

subvertz said:
Before I saw the underside, I imagined there would be rubber bands between the side retention post pairs to allow for easy placement/removal while keeping tension.
While building my dock I found it was very particular about pogo contact, but once you get it, it stays.
Something to note, since there is no backboard to place an NFC tag on, you will need to manually shift if you want desk dock features. i am digging the simplicity!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it possible to toggle my home screen into landscape mode?

Mach3.2 said:
Is it possible to toggle my home screen into landscape mode?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have a few options:
You can use a third party launcher like Nova that will auto-rotate to landscape regardless. (No AC charging)
You can use an NFC tag to force the rotation through usage of an app. (no AC charging), adding a custom kernel can allow you to use AC charging when combined with the NFC tag
You can enable the middle pogo pin for proper signalling, allowing you to use the official desk/car dock modes (with AC charging)

Matridom said:
You have a few options:
You can use a third party launcher like Nova that will auto-rotate to landscape regardless. (No AC charging)
You can use an NFC tag to force the rotation through usage of an app. (no AC charging), adding a custom kernel can allow you to use AC charging when combined with the NFC tag
You can enable the middle pogo pin for proper signalling, allowing you to use the official desk/car dock modes (with AC charging)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thanks, I'm using Nova Launcher, din't really look around the settings to realise there is a rotation setting
A small question for subvertz, maybe Matridom too
What's your voltage when you charge your phone using the pogo pins, mine is around 3.822v, lower than USB or wall charger, although i connected the usb cable to my wall charger.
Used this to see the voltage and battery level, but not needed since i flashed AOKP yesterday.

Mach3.2 said:
Ok, thanks, I'm using Nova Launcher, din't really look around the settings to realise there is a rotation setting
A small question for subvertz, maybe Matridom too
What's your voltage when you charge your phone using the pogo pins, mine is around 3.822v, lower than USB or wall charger, although i connected the usb cable to my wall charger.
Used this to see the voltage and battery level, but not needed since i flashed AOKP yesterday.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If i read the voltage off the USB cable, i get the 4.95V, this is before connecting it to the phone, I've not checked the voltage during charging. When using the Pogo's, I set it so the phone is AC charging, so it draws full amperage from the charger.

Matridom said:
If i read the voltage off the USB cable, i get the 4.95V, this is before connecting it to the phone, I've not checked the voltage during charging. When using the Pogo's, I set it so the phone is AC charging, so it draws full amperage from the charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I checked again, seems that it's charging at 4.2v after leaving it to charge for about 30 minutes.
It's charging at AC rate so it's good, thanks

OK, my Kensington Powerbolt 12V USB adapter measured at 5.09 VDC with a multimeter.
With phone battery indicating 65% on notication bar, the battery measured 3.87 VDC with multimeter.
Phone test menu indicated 3900 mV when discharging, at 65%
On the car dock charging in USB mode phone test menu indicated 3933 mV.
On the car dock charging in AC mode phone test menu indicated 3931 mV.
I would have guessed forcing AC fast charge would have had a different voltage than USM mode, but no. But it does charge faster somehow. I don't have a good way to see current right now.
Hope this helps....what are you planning?

subvertz said:
OK, my Kensington Powerbolt 12V USB adapter measured at 5.09 VDC with a multimeter.
With phone battery indicating 65% on notication bar, the battery measured 3.87 VDC with multimeter.
Phone test menu indicated 3900 mV when discharging, at 65%
On the car dock charging in USB mode phone test menu indicated 3933 mV.
On the car dock charging in AC mode phone test menu indicated 3931 mV.
I would have guessed forcing AC fast charge would have had a different voltage than USM mode, but no. But it does charge faster somehow. I don't have a good way to see current right now.
Hope this helps....what are you planning?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmmmm, same here, the voltage seems lower than a direct microUSB connection to the wall, but it does charge at AC rate.

Took a few minutes to get myself back up to 65%.
Started playing with the micro USB from wall AC, got many different voltages.
Unplugged is around 3897 mV.
Plugging in gives anywhere between 3917 and 4120 mV. I think the charging circuit is trying to maintain a certain level over battery voltage to charge, by the phones power use is not steady.
Trying it during a Ti backup right now....

I tried out yesterday night, seems that the battery voltage is lower when the battery level is lower. And the voltage is the same as a direct connection to the wall.

Woho! Built it!
So I finally built my design. Of course I had to make some adjustments based on what parts I was able to get, and also the reality of pogo pin alignment ... without a drill press.
I've updated my SketchUp model to reflect how it was built.
And now, without further adieu,

Looking good! How does it work? What do you have the middle pin for? It hard to tell is a case on in the pic? What is that cool little andoid usb thing?

Looks good, Anyone can take a look at the 3 pin contacts on their gnex?
Mine is slightly depressed in after i use it on the dock.
Maybe my pogo pins are too stiff
---------- Post added at 08:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:41 PM ----------
subvertz said:
Looking good! How does it work? What do you have the middle pin for? It hard to tell is a case on in the pic? What is that cool little andoid usb thing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Accidentally pressed the thanks button
the middle pin is for signaling what kind of dock the nexus is connected to, the side pins is +5v and ground from the usb cable.
Read this thread.

DIY docks & hacking docks tripping dock mode & AC charging mode

Update: Desk dock resistor value found & additional connector sources found thanks to mikejr83
I went through all of this with my Captivate a year or 2 ago, and figured it might be nice for Galaxy S 3 owners as well. You can see the history at http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=12169590
Dock mode
Samsung phones will trip their dock mode when they sense a resistor of a particular value between the ID (pin 4) & Ground (pin 5) pins on the micro USB connector
Car mode - 619k ohm (Validate on my Galaxy S 1 & Galaxy S 3)
Desk mode - 365k ohm (confirmed finally thanks to mikejr83 cracking open the SGS3 dock his wife got him. 1k ohm for SGS1 & 1k or 365k for the SGS2)
Parts
The only appropriate solution I was able to find (a year or 2 ago messing with my old Captivate) was a USB MicroB Plug Breakout Board which was pretty decent at $4 + shipping.
mikejr83 found some slightly different micro USB connectors at Digi-Key ($0.66 each + reasonable shipping, $2 is the minimum Digi-Key order) and on E-bay (10 for $4 + $1 shipping) as well.
The Zenis SGS2 dock fits the SGS3 reasonably well & runs about $10 on Ebay (free shipping, but it takes about 2 weeks to come over from asia), It does not trip dock mode & just has micro USB passthrough connectors. According to this XDA thread it's easy to pull appart & looks to be very hackable.
Chopping up a micro USB connector will not work, they only have 4 wires & the pin #4 you need access to is buried inside the connector at the end so far you have to destroy the whole connector to get to it
I have a roll of maybe a couple hundred 619k resistors I picked up from a local electronics recycler in my Captivate days. I might start packaging em up and selling them off after I get back from DEFcon if anybody is interested & having a hard time finding them.
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For just dock mode & no other usefulness (like actually charging), you can see what doing a poor job of jamming the resistor in there on the Spark Fun breakout board for testing gets us (photo of my old Galaxy S1 because I'm to lazy to get dig it up and transfer the photos if I take any of my Galaxy S 3 showing the same thing).
AC charging
In order to get "AC charging" which goes up to 750ma instead of "USB charging" which only goes up to 500ma, you merely need to short out the 2 data pins (pin 2/white & pin 3/green) on a normal USB cable. Most people find it easy to short them (the center 2) on the big flat rectangular end (Type A) of a normal USB cable. Given my approach with the breakout board I just soldered a jumper across the 2 data pins on the board.
For my first (and only properly documented) dock build I used Friendly Plastic. Technically called Polycaprolactone it's really easy to work with and melts at around 60 degrees Celsius (140 F), also known as almost the temperature of the dash of my grey truck on a 70-80 degree day.... Oops. It would make a good desk dock, but not a car dock.
Commercial docks & potential mods for them
Given the dirt cheap Infuse dock I picked up I probably won't be working on another car dock unless I decide to put a case on my phone making it not fit in the dock. I have some oven bake modeling clay I'll probably try for that.
At $10-15 it's hard to beat the Zenis dock. On the 2nd page somebody cracked it open and the micro-USB plug looks very similar to the SparkFun one. I don't believe it trips any dock mode, but soldering in the appropriate resistor would be pretty easy. I hope to find the value to trip Desk or Media center dock mode & use Tasker to turn off E-mail and other non-essential noise during the night so as to not roust the wife.
Further information needed
If anybody has any more resistor values for various dock modes or other information to add, let me know.

Can you do both car mode and AC mode at the same time? And any idea if that would be a bad idea off a USB port that's built into a car?

KeithLM said:
Can you do both car mode and AC mode at the same time? And any idea if that would be a bad idea off a USB port that's built into a car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Standard USB is rated up to 500ma.
AC mode is rated up to 750ma.
You need to make sure your power supply is rated to at least 750ma to safely trigger AC mode. You will have to check with the manufacturers specs on what that USB port is rated for. You can trigger AC mode and any of the dock modes at the same time (verified on my old SGS1 Captivate and I'm 99% sure the SGS3 is the same), they don't use the same pins.
If you are plugging into anything that actually expects data (USB port on a stereo as opposed to just a USB charger) I would disconnect the data (center 2) pins from that end, leave them shorted at the phone end.

Thanks for the info. My car reportedly has an extra USB port behind the dash I was hoping to use, but I can't locate it. So I might have to resort to using a power adapter. If I do that I'll use the 2.1A model from monoprice.com. So I'll use the power option based on which port I end up using.

Let me make sure I'm getting this straight: Using the two values for resistance you have you were only able to get the S3 to trigger into car dock mode, correct? There could possibly be another value which triggers desk dock mode.
My thought would be to get a rheostat and chop up a micro USB cable and adjust the level of resistance till the effect was achieved. Obviously I may have to get more than just a rheostat to achieve the correct range of resistance to try, but eh...
Once I figured out the resistance level I could then make a "desktop dock cable" by placing the resister inline in the micro USB cable. That would be a great solution for me. Thoughts?

mikejr83 said:
Let me make sure I'm getting this straight: Using the two values for resistance you have you were only able to get the S3 to trigger into car dock mode, correct? There could possibly be another value which triggers desk dock mode.
My thought would be to get a rheostat and chop up a micro USB cable and adjust the level of resistance till the effect was achieved. Obviously I may have to get more than just a rheostat to achieve the correct range of resistance to try, but eh...
Once I figured out the resistance level I could then make a "desktop dock cable" by placing the resister inline in the micro USB cable. That would be a great solution for me. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The SGS1 resistor value for car dock worked on the SGS3, no luck with the desk dock resistor.
Resistors are used in that location for non dock stuff too... Jigs to trigger bootloader and recovery mode, etc. I wouldn't try the rhestotat thing personally. Previous values were found in Samsung or the CPU vendors documentation somewhere. I'd start there or use an OHM meter on a dock we know trips desk or media mode.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Fallon said:
Resistors are used in that location for non dock stuff too... Jigs to trigger bootloader and recovery mode, etc. I wouldn't try the rhestotat thing personally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up! :good: I got out my breadboard last night. Had a bit of down time at work and was just getting ready to call a few RadioShacks around town to see if they had some pots in stock (didn't expect them to, but they list a few on their website) so I could hack up a cable this weekend.
One question though, if I had the phone powered on and was to start with a linear taper pot and go from 0 to say 1M ohms (found one that would cover the entire range without me having to add resisters in there) I could possibly trip the phone into bootloader or recovery mode?
It would seem to me that in essence what I would be "doing" is plugging in various USB cables which had a different resistance in that location. It seem odd to be able to take a powered on (even screen unlocked) phone and have it just dump to recovery or bootloader with the plugging in of a cable (assuming that I had the real version of the cable/dock/jig).
That said, I'm glad you gave me a heads up as I might want to do a bit more research on this before I just sit around with my multimeter and a pot going through various resistances just to see what happens. I suppose what "happens" might be something I really, really do not want! Or, maybe I end up finding a way to unlock a VZW phone by accident! Yea, like that'd ever happen!
EDIT:
This new phone has me not writing code and doing more searching around the internets for information! I found this post http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=20710266&postcount=14 The poster shows that they use a 365k resistor for car dock. Preceeding posts indicate this was for a S2. I still have to go through my resistor "collection" to see what I have sitting around. I may still hack up a cable this weekend.

Ok. So I got a pot and was setting up a test bed when I cut the end of a mini USB cable. I realized it only has 4 pins. My thought was to use one of the dozens of mini USB cables instead of my limited amount of micro ones for my first tests. Basically I was going to take the A side and plug it into the charger to power my breadboard.
When I saw that there were only 4 pins on the mini B side and hence four wires inside the shielding it got me thinking about the micro B end. Both the micro's and mini's A side have 4 pins. If the micro B side has 5 pins where does that 5th id pin go? Does a micro cable have 5 conductors the length of the wire which the id conductor terminates to ground at the A side?
Now I'm confused on how the accessories are manufactured so as to make the phone go from USB charge mode to A/C mode. I'd really like to sit around now that I have this pot to test various resistances in order to see the outcome. Quick Googling hasn't found any negative side effects (yet...).
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app

Micro USB has 5 pins with the new 5th pin only existing on one end to use as an ID pin for what end of the cable it is. Makes it easy for the resistors that Samsung uses to trip the various modes.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium

I was just looking into what all the pins do because I planned to make a small board with A and B connectors and wire the resistor in there. Now I see that's pointless. I figured the shielding on other connectors was equivalent to the 5th pin.
I'm going to have to strip down a micro USB cable and see what I find in there.

I'd recommend looking at that breakout board from Spark Fun I linked up top.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using xda premium

http://forums.androidcentral.com/epic-4g-accessories/64959-what-triggers-car-dock-mode.html#anb
Mentions 365k as well as 1k to trigger desk dock. will try it when I get a chance.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

I've stripped down a micro-USB connector on one of my monoprice.com cables. I've found that the pin is there on the backside of the connector and just not connected to anything. Unfortunately I did too much damage in the process to try and reuse it. I think if I can strip another and be more careful I can expose just the one pin I need, then expose some of the wiring further from the connector and very carefully slice open the ground and connect the two with the resistor. It's also possible the shielding is connected to ground, so I might be able to attach it directly to that. Unfortunately my voltmeter is out of commission so I can't check that at the moment.

KeithLM said:
I've stripped down a micro-USB connector on one of my monoprice.com cables. I've found that the pin is there on the backside of the connector and just not connected to anything. Unfortunately I did too much damage in the process to try and reuse it. I think if I can strip another and be more careful I can expose just the one pin I need, then expose some of the wiring further from the connector and very carefully slice open the ground and connect the two with the resistor. It's also possible the shielding is connected to ground, so I might be able to attach it directly to that. Unfortunately my voltmeter is out of commission so I can't check that at the moment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok. To clarify, the ID pin doesn't have a wire/conductor that runs the length of the wire?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app

mikejr83 said:
Ok. To clarify, the ID pin doesn't have a wire/conductor that runs the length of the wire?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely not in the cable I pulled apart. I've looked around for a micro-USB extension cable, but haven't found one so far. Potentially such a cable would have the fifth wire.

Straight from the land of the rising sun! Straight from China! http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-USB-T...ltDomain_0&hash=item20c49dfc46#ht_2925wt_1163
DIY Micro 5pin male USB connector! $4 for 10 of them. I just ordered a set. Once I get these it should be easy to build a test connector that will run through my pot so we can try different resistances.
This is what I was hoping of finding. I wanted to take a 1.5-3ft USB cable and put an end on it that would put the phone into desk dock mode. That way I could connect the cable to my keyboard and set my phone in a cradle that I previously purchased.
EDIT:
Shipping is a $1. Total paypal amount was $4.99
EDIT 2:
I'm a tard. Also got shipping confirmation. Could take up to 30 days . Hopefully it's on the shorter side of their estimate of 7 days. I guess that gives me some time to put together a monoprice order for some cables.

mikejr83 said:
Straight from the land of the rising sun! http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-USB-T...ltDomain_0&hash=item20c49dfc46#ht_2925wt_1163
DIY Micro 5pin male USB connector! $4 for 10 of them. I just ordered a set. Once I get these it should be easy to build a test connector that will run through my pot so we can try different resistances.
This is what I was hoping of finding. I wanted to take a 1.5-3ft USB cable and put an end on it that would put the phone into desk dock mode. That way I could connect the cable to my keyboard and set my phone in a cradle that I previously purchased.
EDIT:
Shipping is a $1. Total paypal amount was $4.99
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Japan is the land of rising sun but otherwise great find

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#section_4
USB 1.x/2.0 Mini/Micro pinout
Pin Name Cable color Description
1 VBUS Red +5 V
2 D− White Data −
3 D+ Green Data +
4 ID None Permits distinction of host connection from slave connection
* host: connected to Signal ground
* slave: not connected
5 GND Black Signal ground
So definitely only 4 wires in a standards compliant cable, not 5. Pin gets left free or shorted directly to ground (or shorted via a resistor in Samsung's case for dock mode)
Nice find on the cheap micro USB connectors.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

Now that I'm at work and doing nothing really important I've had time to dig through digikey for a similar part. I just don't think I can wait that long to get those other pieces!
The only thing I've been able to find that is close is this:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&mpart=10104109-0001LF&vendor=609&cur=USD
I ordered 3 and had them shipped USPS First Class. That will give me something to test with hopefully by the end of the week.
BTW, it's been such a long time since I ordered anything from digikey that I didn't realize they dropped their minimum order size requirement. It's awesome that they'll ship a $2 order!

Check GPS USB cables... they have all 5 leads
The USB extension cable is common for GPS units. My car radio has garmin built in, and when I added the fm traffic antenna, I needed a Mini USB (not micro) cable and quickly found out that "standard" off the shelf cables only have 4 wires, when the mini and micro usb ends actually have a 5th pin, but it either gnd or n/a at all - the standard extension cables off the shelf are extremely cheap, but useless for an application where the 5th pin is needed. BUT when I search for a GPS cable, it has all 5 pins. Its also about 5x more expension - When I bought mine it was like $25 or something online, but I can't remember where... it was from a GPS outlet place I found online. Just posting my limited experience for those to consider, and maybe prices have changed since then?
GOOD LUCK
(btw: I love this thread, I love building stuff too....)

[How To] Add Internal Qi charging While Retaining NFC

WARNING: I am not responsible if you break your phone. Proceed at own risk!
So I have received a ton of questions regarding how I added Qi to my phone, and its sort of scattered throughout this thread so I decided to edit the OP and lay it out step by step.
Here are the parts I used:
GalaxyS4 charging card: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/331536120289
LG G3 coil combo: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/261756381973
You will need both becase the S4 card does not include NFC, and the G3 card does not include the Qi PCB circuitry.
power down, remove sim, remove battery cover, remove lower speaker module. you can find how this is done here: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/OnePlus+One+Teardown/26484 (you do NOT need to remove the upper cover nor the battery. just the back cover and lower speaker assembly)
Solder wires to the outside pins:
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Route the wires into the battery cavity, replace the speaker. Here is the wiring diagram of a Micro-USB cable. Since the OPO is laying face down, this image would have to be "inserted" into the plug on the OPO then flipped so the narrow part of the plug faces up. The +5 pin ends up on the right like in my photo above.:
Remove the paper from the S4 card, cut out this part. Be sure to take note of which trace leads to the "outside" and "inside" of the coil:
and solder the wires from the micro-USB port to the coresponding pins marked on the S4 PCB (on the right side in this image) +5 & GND. I used a small piece of thin 2-sided tape to stick it to the battery.
Also follow the traces in the PCB for the Qi coil side. On the left side of the PCB I added a red wire to the trace that goes to the outside of the coil, and a black wire to the trace that goes to the inside of the coil:
I then removed the G3 Qi/NFC coil from its paper backing, and cut to seperate the NFC from the Qi traces. I just cut along this gap:
Next just align the POGO pins on the OPO to the NFC pins on the G3 card:
I "accordioned" the NFC traces so that the coil will sit higher / more central on the rear of the phone. Use 2-sided tape to hold it in place.
Then take the leads you soldered to the coil side of the S4 PCB board and match the red to the lead that goes to the outside of the G3 coil.
Carefully stick it all down to the battery. Here is the finished install:
Now just remove the NFC coil from the inside of your back cover. I also removed the sticker from the inside of the styleswap cover (only exists on bamboo - does not exist on the black or white covers). I also sanded down the plastic ledge around the location of the OEM NFC to free up a every tiny bit of available space:
and close everything back up. Mine fit perfectly flush with the bamboo cover:
Done!
I have an LG WCP-300 Qi charging puck. It has a rated output of 1000mA. It looks like this:
and I consistently get 850-900mA while charging:
NFC works exactly like stock, the Micro-USB port also works exactly like stock. I can still charge over micro-USB and get the proper 1800mA charge rate while using it.
Any questions just let me know!

That's awesome man. I think I'll do that as well!

wow

may i know what is the app you used to measure the charging current?

mtxx1 said:
may i know what is the app you used to measure the charging current?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw

burnski said:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How's the heat output
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One with Stereo Mod
Don't forget to hit thanks!

abhi08638 said:
How's the heat output
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One with Stereo Mod
Don't forget to hit thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's been sitting on the charger for the last 8 min, never exceeded 28°C. True test will be tonight when I let it charge all night.

So it sat on the charger all night. Warmed up to 30°C as it approached 100% Ruth cooled back down to 28.

burnski said:
So it sat on the charger all night. Warmed up to 30°C as it approached 100% Ruth cooled back down to 28.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! How long did it take to get a full charge
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One with Stereo Mod
Don't forget to hit thanks!

abhi08638 said:
Thanks! How long did it take to get a full charge
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One with Stereo Mod
Don't forget to hit thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the first post, I just edited it with the details

For anyone interested, here is last nights batter log. Note that I put it on the charger last night around 11:45pm, took it off the charger at 6:48am this morning.

burnski said:
So for two years I loved having wireless charging with my nexus 4, and the lack of it with the OnePlus One was the only shortcoming I settled over. I finally got tired of going without it, so decided it was time to do something about it. I had a spare qi receiver for a Samsung s4 kicking around so I decided to open up my opo and perform surgery. It was a success and I can finally bid farewell to the loose cables laying around again!
Note that with the screen off it charges at approx 460mA. Sure it's not as fast as the stock charger but this is about convenience not speed. If I'm in a hurry I can still use the stock charger for a bump... But the reality is that my old n4 was always fully charged because whenever I sat it down I sat it on a charger.
Edit: so it's spent the night in the charger and I found something interesting according to the battery monitor widget log.
I put it in the charger at 11:45pm with 28% battery remaining. It charged at a rate of approx 875mA and by 1:30am it had reach 80% battery. Then the battery rate of charge dropped to approx 100mA until it reached 100% at approx 6:00am.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This looks like a great mod, would you mind putting specific instructions on how to do it? I can get the idea from the pics, but I don't want to mess anything up. Thanks.

This would be great.. Please instruct.

its pretty simple. just look at the pics and be extra careful when you solder.

I just switched to a OPO from a Nexus 4, and wireless charging is the only thing I miss... well, and Seidio cases and holsters; I really like their products.
Anyway, couple questions about your mod; do you think copper tape would work? I'd prefer not to do any soldering. And, does your coil interfere with NFC function?

I put an s5 qi charger in mine. 750-800mah screen on. Screen off approximately 15-20% per hour. The NFC blocks alot of the potential. Maybe place your coil between the antennae and the back cover.
Glad to see people are not afraid to tear apart their opo

Lupercal said:
I just switched to a OPO from a Nexus 4, and wireless charging is the only thing I miss... well, and Seidio cases and holsters; I really like their products.
Anyway, couple questions about your mod; do you think copper tape would work? I'd prefer not to do any soldering. And, does your coil interfere with NFC function?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually bought the white style swap back that doesn't have the nfc. I honestly have no use for the nfc coil so that buys me 1-2mm of space.
If I do find I need nfc down the road I'll buy the lg g3 qi/nfc combo coil and swap it out.

Has any tried to get a charger with the micro usb between a case (diztronic) and the back?
I'm a bit worried about ruining the sandstone so i may get a generic cover

It should work fine, just means access to the port will involve removing the case.

burnski said:
So for two years I loved having wireless charging with my nexus 4, and the lack of it with the OnePlus One was the only shortcoming I settled over. I finally got tired of going without it, so decided it was time to do something about it. I had a spare qi receiver for a Samsung s4 kicking around so I decided to open up my opo and perform surgery. It was a success and I can finally bid farewell to the loose cables laying around again!
Note that with the screen off it charges at approx 460mA. Sure it's not as fast as the stock charger but this is about convenience not speed. If I'm in a hurry I can still use the stock charger for a bump... But the reality is that my old n4 was always fully charged because whenever I sat it down I sat it on a charger.
Edit: so it's spent the night in the charger and I found something interesting according to the battery monitor widget log.
I put it in the charger at 11:45pm with 28% battery remaining. It charged at a rate of approx 875mA and by 1:30am it had reach 80% battery. Then the battery rate of charge dropped to approx 100mA until it reached 100% at approx 6:00am.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
does it matter which pin gets the black and which pin gets the red? I'm looking at an S5 coil that i want to adapt to my OPO, but that coil doesn't identify red/black...