Develop Bugs

How to Modify 1 Amp Car Chargers to show AC Mode

So I was getting a bit frustrated with buying single and dual USB car chargers that were rated at 1Amp/Port and still having the EVO showing USB charging. I have five chargers now and they all show USB Charging while in spare parts. So being frustrated, I wanted to figure out and solve the problem. After a lot of surfing and digging, I came across the answer. If you check out this wikipedia link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#Power
You'll find the answer in the Battery Charging Specification of the link:
"In Battery Charging Specification,[31] new powering modes are added to the USB specification. A host or hub Charging Downstream Port can supply a maximum of 1.5 A when communicating at low-bandwidth or full-bandwidth, a maximum of 900 mA when communicating at high-bandwidth, and as much current as the connector will safely handle when no communication is taking place; USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1500 mA by default. A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8 A of current at 5.25 V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8 A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification."
The key here is shorting the D+ and D- pins. Looking up the USB pinout can be found here:
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
So, taking my cheapest charger that I bought from Walmart for $5.99 that had dual ports that said it was rated at 1A/Port, I opened it up and soldered pins 2 and 3 together for each port and put it back together.
So now with my modified cheapo USB car charger I went to the car and plugged it in and plugged in the EVO. Low and behold, it now says it's "AC Charging" and now it will pull the full 1 Amp.
So with the result to my satisfaction, I opened up my other chargers, ranging from three different Scosche chargers and one single port Belkin 1 Amp charger, soldered pins 2 and 3 together, and now all of my chargers are showing "AC Charging" using the "Spare Parts" app.
Once you take the charger apart, it's fairly obvious which pins are 2 and 3. I guess I should have taken pictures of each one as I had it apart so you could see it.
I hope this helps others with getting the full charging capacity out of their 1 Amp car chargers. Because running Google Navigation or apps such as Pandora/Subsonic will really suck down the juice.

Wow.. great info! Thanks for posting that!

What gives you the impression that it's not drawing 1A when on an actual USB port...or vice versa, what guarantees you the 1A after this trick? ...(yes, I'm just trying to see your logic)...

RavenII said:
What gives you the impression that it's not drawing 1A when on an actual USB port...or vice versa, what guarantees you the 1A after this trick? ...(yes, I'm just trying to see your logic)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
According to everything that I've read on how the EVO and other phones charge, unless it can detect that the charger is a dedicated charger and not connected to a computer, the phone will only draw a max of 500 milliamps at 5 volts. Most of the time, it will only draw 400 milliamps at 5 volts.
There are a lot of threads here on trying to get chargers rated at 1 amp to actually have the EVO charge at 1 amp. The secret is that the 2 and 3 pins must be shorted before the EVO will even attempt to draw more amperage then a normal USB port.
Though you should only do this mod if the charger is truly rated at 1 amp at 5 volts.

So, if I bridge pins 2 and 3, and ground pin 4...I should be able to get it to pull 1 amp and launch into car mode right?

scl23enn4m3 said:
So, if I bridge pins 2 and 3, and ground pin 4...I should be able to get it to pull 1 amp and launch into car mode right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just bridge pins 2 and 3. Leave pin 4 alone. You could also mod a cable to do this, but make sure you never plug it into a computer!
The EVO will now see the charger as a dedicated charger and attempt to draw 1 amp. Though, based on what I have been reading, it wil more than likely draw 800 milliamps instead of 1000 milliamps. Same goes for USB charging at 400 milliamps instead of 500.

How did you get the belkin apart??

Can someone describe to me specifically what it looks like on 1A AC vs a 500mA?
I've tried plugging mine into a couple of 1A wall chargers that I have (including the HTC included charger) as well as my car and house 5mA chargers, and don't see the difference on screen.

ntron1 said:
How did you get the belkin apart??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had to use my pocket knife to slip it in between the spring loaded metal ground part and the plastic case. Make sure you identify which side will lift off. The top part is attached to one of the halves and you don't want to pry against that side. Just put a bit of pressure on each side until you can crack it apart. When putting it back together, I had to use some super glue on each side of the case after I had pressed it together. Just a couple of drops on each side and it looks none the worse for wear. Except it now charges at a a full amp (probably 800 milliamps)
Just to verify, this is the Belkin charger in question:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Micro-...3?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1283093014&sr=8-3

Andy S said:
Can someone describe to me specifically what it looks like on 1A AC vs a 500mA?
I've tried plugging mine into a couple of 1A wall chargers that I have (including the HTC included charger) as well as my car and house 5mA chargers, and don't see the difference on screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Download spare parts from the market. Under battery information it will tell you which mode it's charging in. Either USB or AC.

ChrisDos said:
Download spare parts from the market. Under battery information it will tell you which mode it's charging in. Either USB or AC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I knew I was missing something.

Battery droid will also tell you USB vs. A/C charging.

Andy S said:
Can someone describe to me specifically what it looks like on 1A AC vs a 500mA?
I've tried plugging mine into a couple of 1A wall chargers that I have (including the HTC included charger) as well as my car and house 5mA chargers, and don't see the difference on screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go into Settings, About Phone, Battery... It will say under Battery Status (just in case you don't want to download a new app)

SteelH said:
Battery droid will also tell you USB vs. A/C charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JKGoodrich said:
Go into Settings, About Phone, Battery... It will say under Battery Status (just in case you don't want to download a new app)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks all.
Now if I could find my soldering iron, I'll attempt this on my 1A wall charger from a time circa Rio Carbon

ChrisDos said:
I had to use my pocket knife to slip it in between the spring loaded metal ground part and the plastic case. Make sure you identify which side will lift off. The top part is attached to one of the halves and you don't want to pry against that side. Just put a bit of pressure on each side until you can crack it apart. When putting it back together, I had to use some super glue on each side of the case after I had pressed it together. Just a couple of drops on each side and it looks none the worse for wear. Except it now charges at a a full amp (probably 800 milliamps)
Just to verify, this is the Belkin charger in question:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Micro-...3?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1283093014&sr=8-3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, 5 minutes and worked like a champ.

Ten minutes of looking for a lost soldering iron, and the Rio Carbon's charger now shows AC. Cool.
Thanks. I'm planning a hardwired mod to make a physical mount (out of a $5 ebay belt clip that I'm going to saw the clip off of...) in the empty Nav hole on my car. Have been trying to find a cheap donar USB plug charger to wire straight into the fuse box, and this will make that search easier.
scl23enn4m3 said:
So, if I bridge pins 2 and 3, and ground pin 4...I should be able to get it to pull 1 amp and launch into car mode right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Back to this one about grounding pin 4. I know that in another thread someone mentioned hacking a cable on the mini USB end to bridge pins 4 and 5 (the "X" on the diagrams on the second page linked in the first post) to automatically put the car in "car dock" mode. Any ideas how we could accomplish this at the regular USB plug end, since there are only 4 contacts on that side?

Andy S said:
Ten minutes of looking for a lost soldering iron, and the Rio Carbon's charger now shows AC. Cool.
Back to this one about grounding pin 4. I know that in another thread someone mentioned hacking a cable on the mini USB end to bridge pins 4 and 5 (the "X" on the diagrams on the second page linked in the first post) to automatically put the car in "car dock" mode. Any ideas how we could accomplish this at the regular USB plug end, since there are only 4 contacts on that side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to see that the modified charger is showing AC. Afraid I don't know about the car dock mode. Haven't researched that yet.

Thanks again OP. Just modified one and it worked perfectly.

ChrisDos said:
Just bridge pins 2 and 3. Leave pin 4 alone. You could also mod a cable to do this, but make sure you never plug it into a computer!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think you understood my question...Grounding 4 (same as bridging it to 5) should kick the phone into dock mod. So if I can pull an amp and get it into dock mod in my car, it'd be perfect.
Andy S said:
Back to this one about grounding pin 4. I know that in another thread someone mentioned hacking a cable on the mini USB end to bridge pins 4 and 5 (the "X" on the diagrams on the second page linked in the first post) to automatically put the car in "car dock" mode. Any ideas how we could accomplish this at the regular USB plug end, since there are only 4 contacts on that side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe pin 4 doesn't get used so it's the one missing on the regular USB side...Based on that it would make sense for a wire from pin 4 to not extend all the way. You might just be stuck with with opening it towards the micro usb end.

My htc wall charger shows AC charging. So does my motorola car charger. Do I need to modify anything??
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

The Car Charger Thread

THE PURPOSE OF THIS THREAD:
I think it's about time that we collect all the Car Charger info into one database so it's easy to find and I'm willing to do the work if you folks are willing to supply the following information about your chargers by posting it in this thread:
Brand
Model number, SKU, or description.
Rated output per the info on the charger.
Does it charge in AC or USB mode (see below)?
Does it have an attached cord or "Type-A" USB socket?
Who sells it?
Do you like it?
And for the USB mode chargers:
Can it be modified to charge in AC mode (see below)
CHECKING HOW THE PHONE RECOGNIZES THE CHARGER:
Plug the phone into the charger (light must be yellow and the phone must be charging)
Tap Menu > Settings > About Phone > Battery.
The top line will say "Battery status" followed by:
Charging (AC)
Charging (USB)
NOTE: If it says "Full" then your battery is fully charged and you'll need to run it down until the light turns from green to yellow. If it says "Not charging" then your charger is not supplying power or it's not properly connected to the phone.
AC? USB? WTF??:
USB ports were originally designed for data communications with and to supply power to computer peripherals. The maximum power specification for the USB 1.x and 2.0 data devices is 500mA so a "typical" USB port in most computers and hubs is only designed to supply 500mA. But consumer electronics manufacturers have adoped the USB connector as a means to charge their devices and they didn't want to be limited to 500mA, so some changes to the USB Standard were necessary to prevent "typical" 500mA USB ports from being damaged when subjected to loads which exceed their maximum output.
In a nutshell, now modern consumer electronics devices test the status of the USB data pair (D+ & D-) when you plug a cable into them. If the data pair is shorted (less than 200 ohms) then it will assume that the cable is connected to a charger and draw as much current as the charging circuit in the device calls for. If the data pair is not shorted then the device will assume that it's connected to a data port and it will draw no more than 500mA. Unfortunately, it seems that most auto charger manufacturers (and some AC chargers) just don't get it and they're selling high-powered (1 - 1.25A typical) chargers without the data pair shorted. Consequently a device like the Evo thinks it's connected to a data port and won't even try to draw more than 500mA regardless of what the charger is capable of supplying.
MODIFYING A CHARGER SO IT'S RECOGNIZED AS AN AC CHARGER:
This will explain what you need to do but not necessarily how to do it. Brands and models are different so there are no universal instructions, however I'll post links to your detailed instructions if you post 'em and I find them (feel free to post 'em in this thread).
The bottom line is you need to open up your charger and short the D+ & D- pair. For chargers with a USB Type-A receptical you can bridge (short) pins 2&3. For chargers with an attached cord with a Micro-B plug on it you'll need to find which wires go to pins 2&3 on the plug and bridge them:
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It's important to note that the pinouts in the diagram above are for plugs. In the case of the Type-A plug a receptical will have an identical pinout, but in the case of the Micro-B plug the pinout for the receptical will be mirrored (reversed). As an added bonus, here are the complete pinouts for both plugs: Type A: 1= +5V, 2= D-, 3= D+, 4= Ground. Micro-B: 1= +5V, 2= D-, 3= D+, 4= ID, 5=Ground. The specified wire colors for USB cables are Red = +5, White= D-, Green= D+, None= ID, and Black= Ground; but some manufacturers seem to be standard-challenged so you can't always assume this will be correct.
Pete

Charger Database
CHARGERS WHICH CHARGE IN AC MODE (UNMODIFIED):
Monoprice.com Car Charger (Cigarette Lighter to USB Female Converter) #6766, 1000mA
Motorola P513 Car Charger (Micro USB), 975mA
Seidio Micro-USB High Output Car Charger, 1000mA
CHARGERS WHICH CHARGE IN USB MODE (UNMODIFIED):
Belkin MicroCharge Part # F8Z445ttP, 1000mA (**Modification Instructions)
Sprint USB Vehicle Charger - Item # PVX9501R, 850mA. (**Modification Instructions)

I strongly suggest not buying this charger if you're buying it to modify because it's a pain in the butt to get apart and it's only rated at 850mA, but I already had one and I was determined to either modify it or destroy it trying and I'm glad to say that I ultimately succeed in modifying it.
First I pried off the head. There are little indents that you can see from the back and what I did was work little screwdrivers into two of 'em at once (one on each side of a corner) and pry the corner up. Then, while holding that corner from snapping shut again, I popped the other two sides loose and the head just lifted off.
Then I stuck a fairly large-blade screwdriver in behind one of the grounding springs and pried the body halves apart far enough to get a smaller screwdriver into the seam and I basically just "worried" the seam apart working from the large end to the small. Then I repeated the process for the seam on the other side of the body.
Once the case was apart I carefully examined how everything fit into the body and lifted it all out. The chrome grounding springs come out separately and it helps if you remove them first. Once I had the guts out I found where the #2 and #3 terminal tabs poke through the circuit board and bridged them with a small bead of solder. This takes a needle-point soldering tip and a great deal of care lest you also bridge to the tiny little surface-mount resistor which is right next to the terminals. You've been warned!
Then it was a simple matter of putting the guts back into the body, snapping it back together, wicking a small amount of thin CA (super glue) into the seam to hold the halves of the body together, debonding my fingers from the case (just kidding ), and snapping the head back on.
The bottom line is it's doable, but the net result is an 850mA charger with ugly pry marks all over it, although the pry marks will end up inside the cigarette lighter where they can't be seen. I would have preferred to include photos, but my camera that does macro is at work and I didn't feel ambitious enough to go get it.
Pete

Monoprice Car Charger (Cigarette Lighter) to USB Female Converter - White
1 Amp USB charger, works properly in AC mode so no modification is needed. USB Port
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10826&cs_id=1082602&p_id=6766&seq=1&format=2
Price 1.16 each comes in white or black.
3ft USB cable with micro usb head 1.00
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=4867&seq=1&format=2

I had to call Seidio today about an unrelated item and I asked about their Seidio Micro-USB High Output Car Charger while I had them on the phone. The gal in Customer Support didn't really grasp what I was asking about, but a guy in tech support called me back to report that he had tested the charger with an Evo and it definitely charges in AC mode.
So I added it to the appropriate list in post #2.
Pete

Would it be possible to just modify a USB cable to do this or would I have to get nitty gritty with the Kensington PowerBolt Micro bend its will?

goodboynyc said:
Would it be possible to just modify a USB cable to do this .... ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure. All the Evo needs to see is a short between the D+ and D- (#2 and #3) pins to charge in AC mode and it doesn't care whether that short is in the cable, in one of the connectors, or in the charger. Remember that you're not telling the charger what to do .. You're telling the phone.
I've never actually owned one myself, but I've seen plenty of references to "charge-only" cables which I assume have the pins shorted. A example is the Seidio Micro USB Charging Cable (5FT) which says "This cable is for charging only, and cannot be used for data synchronization" in the product description. But I need to reiterate once again that I'm assuming that this cable has the D+ and D- conductors shorted because I can't imagine any other reason to make a charge only cable.
Pete

I was easily able to take apart the powerbolt but im unsure where to lay the solder.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

* Brand: PointMobl Retractable Wall/Travel Power Adapter
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4050265
* Model number: 23-1119
* Rated output per the info on the charger:
Built in retractable cable connector: 5VDC, 1.0A
Secondary USB Port: 5VDC, 0.5A
* Does it charge in AC or USB mode: AC with built in cable connector
* Does it have an attached cord or "Type-A" USB socket:
Built in retractable micro usb cable
Secondary Type-A USB socket for charging a second device
* Who sells it: Radio Shack
* Do you like it: Yes. it charges the phone fast and full.
Edit: Sorry I just realized this isn't a car charger, but a good charger nevertheless.

goodboynyc said:
I was easily able to take apart the powerbolt but im unsure where to lay the solder.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to bridge the two pins in the red box:
Pete

Thanks. I figured thats what i needed to bridge. Ill probably do it tonight and give it a test followed by a proper write up.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

Brand: Kensington
Model: PowerBolt Micro
Rated output: 2.1 Amps
Does it charge in AC or USB mode (see below)? USB
Does it have an attached cord or "Type-A" USB socket? No
Who sells it? Amazon, Newegg, etc.
Do you like it? Hell yes.
I had to short pins 2 and 3 so that my Evo could pull more than 300mA. To open the charger i just pried off the bottom half, the side without the LED, and pulled out the circuit board. I dabbed some solder on it and was off on my way.
According to current widget, the Evo now pulls ~700mA and up to 810mA which was the most I've seen so far.

cheap Ipad charger from ebay
I got this cheap Ipad charger off ebay, then I super glued this connector on the middle pins works so far. Only got about 900 mA out of the 2.1mA, but i didnt expect much out of it anyway.
First post on XDA
WELL I tried to post pictures but it wouldn't let me....

I've had this Blackberry charger for 2 years plus and it still works great. It charges in AC mode and does .95 amps. It doesn't get real hot like some I've used. I originally used it with my Tour and have been using it with the EVO since the day one launch. BTW my EVO has never had a problem in the year or so since the launch. I love the phone and will be sorry to let it go...when the SII is released.
Amazon Link $6.85 now, but when I bought it was less.

mrpickem said:
I've had this Blackberry charger for 2 years plus and it still works great. It charges in AC mode and does .95 amps. It doesn't get real hot like some I've used. I originally used it with my Tour and have been using it with the EVO since the day one launch. BTW my EVO has never had a problem in the year or so since the launch. I love the phone and will be sorry to let it go...when the SII is released.
Amazon Link $6.85 now, but when I bought it was less.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
prob gonna be buying this one

Looks cool...
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA Premium App

I recently purchased a Kensington K33497US PowerBolt Duo car charger. One USB port is rated at 2.1A for iPads and the other port is rated at 1A. Plugging my EVO 3D into either port results in "USB charging" mode. Following the advice here and in other threads, I pried open the charger and soldered a connection between pins 2 and 3 (this is on the side with the 1A port). Tested the 1A port and I now see "AC charging" on my EVO 3D. I haven't tested the actual current yet but hopefully will soon. Thanks to all who have posted their experiences.

quagman said:
I recently purchased a Kensington K33497US PowerBolt Duo car charger. One USB port is rated at 2.1A for iPads and the other port is rated at 1A. Plugging my EVO 3D into either port results in "USB charging" mode. Following the advice here and in other threads, I pried open the charger and soldered a connection between pins 2 and 3 (this is on the side with the 1A port). Tested the 1A port and I now see "AC charging" on my EVO 3D. I haven't tested the actual current yet but hopefully will soon. Thanks to all who have posted their experiences.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tested the modified Kensington Powerbolt Duo today with my Evo 3D. The battery was at 69% and I turned on Google Navigation and took a 15 minute drive. During that time the phone was reading "AC charging" and stayed at 69% during the drive. Then on the way home I plugged in a cheap car charger I bought from eBay. My phone again said "AC charging" and in the first ten minutes of my drive the battery went from 68% to 73% with Navigation running. The phone and charger also were warm. I had turned on Current Widget for the ride home and it peaked at 720 mA with the cheap charger. I then switched back to the modified Kensington and monitored the current for around five minutes with Navigation on. The battery charge stayed at 73%. According to the Current Widget log though, the current was reading negative values up to -253 mA. Not really sure what this means.

mrpickem said:
I've had this Blackberry charger for 2 years plus and it still works great. It charges in AC mode and does .95 amps. It doesn't get real hot like some I've used. I originally used it with my Tour and have been using it with the EVO since the day one launch. BTW my EVO has never had a problem in the year or so since the launch. I love the phone and will be sorry to let it go...when the SII is released.
Amazon Link $6.85 now, but when I bought it was less.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry but this charger is probably not even that good, it charges blackberrys which means its probably under 300mAH look on dealextreme for like ones that are 500mAH + under that sucks because say you use navi or somthing, it will eat more battery than it will charge. there are pretty awesome ones on DX for like 5 bucks but the thing is it takes 14 days for shipping, pretty long time. or check monoprice which is located in orange county and is a GREAT site i get my things in 2 days with them and there SUPER cheap like DX hope this helped

Brand: Schosche
Model: reVIVE II Dual USB Car Charger for iPad
Rated output: 2.1A
AC or USB Mode: USB
Cord: USB A Plug
Who sells it: ht tp://w ww.amazon.com/Scosche-reVIVE-Dual-Charger-iPad/dp/B003N7NO4Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311527021&sr=8-1
Do you like it? Yes
I just found this thread. I bought this charger over 6 months ago. I thought surely that the 2.1A capability would mean this would charge as fast as the wall charger. While that has not been the case, and thanks to this thread I now know why, it at least keeps it charged while using the GPS which all of the other chargers I tried before did not.
After seeing this thread this morning I went out to my car and plugged the phone in to see what mode it was charging in. To my surprise, it said USB.
So, my question is this. Could I not simply plant a bead of solder between pins 2 and 3 of a USB cable and get the same result as modifying the charger?

Otterbox Beltclip Modded into Car Mount -learn with me

I couldn't find a mount for my otterbox. I built a car mount and painted it black. I ended up making it from the belt clip on my otterbox and an old garmin window-mounted GPS. Here's some pictures of the build process.
My first attempt was to try to fiberglass the outside of the otterbox to make a mount....
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This ended up being too much work and I came up with a better idea.
1 remove belt clip portion from otterbox
2. Saw down Otterbox beltclip so that the unit can be slid into place with USB cable
3. slide phone into otterbox case and insert USB.
4. first superglue USB in proper position, then epoxy for extra hard durability
5. saw back part off of old window mounted unit
6. superglue back plate in place
7. epoxy backplate in place
Ok... so now for power... I used a USB port and a regulator... This was an epic failure because pins 2 and 3 on the USB port should have been pulled HIGH to represent this is a charging device. I left them open and the unit appeared to go into USB Powered device mode where my phone was supplying 5V to the charger..... Anyways... this would have worked if I had read up on USB standards first but I ended up going with a 12V adapter stuck into a 12V socket in my ceiling.
Circuit made (should have added a resistor from 5V to the middle two pins)
Covered with non-conductive, flexible glue to keep everything in place and make sure it would not be able to short circuit.
Finally I painted the entire thing black. It looks great now. Everything is wonderful. After 3 days of drying it was able to be used.

I forgot to add finished photos.
The unit separates so the suction cup mount can be adjusted easily.
You can see on the back, it's not too bad once it's painted
This large cutout allows the otterbox cable cover to be opened and just slide right in.
Now, if I had this to do over again, I would have applied a 619Kohm resistor between pins 4 and 5 on the mini-usb. This would have enabled car mode. Car mode automatically brings up car home. As it is, this is simply a car-charger circuit.
Overall, this project is awesome!. This allows me to have my phone mounted above eye-level which is great for GPS

http://cgi.ebay.com/SlipGrip-Car-Ho...658168?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item5d2cdd48f8

please dont spam that ebay crap. this is a homemade-how-to!

That thing is big, and has no charging capability.
If you took the belt clip off and put on suction cup instead, that's what you get from that Ebay link. There's no charging capability there. Mine has about 2-3 inches of exposed cable. The rest is tucked neatly into the headboards of the car.

TRusselo said:
please dont spam that ebay crap. this is a homemade-how-to!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm im not spamming anything. He stated that he couldn't find a car mount for the outterbox case. Was just posting it for reference. Just giving my 2cent's or w/e they call them up north. No need to get nasty.
I appreciate what he's done and for the walkthru. Everyone has their own opinions and if someone happens upon this post in the future and in interested in a carmount for a otterbox they can follow OP's wonderful how-to and they will have more options...
Just trying to be helpful to be honest.

How easily does the phone slide in and connect with the usb? I've been thinking of how to make a dock that you slide in similar to yours, but been worried how quickly/simply it works (i often have a difficult time plugging it in even after owning it for half a year!).
I also kinda wanted to make the usb mount adjustable in case I took the phone's case off or used a different case all together. Any ideas on that, or is the permanent epoxy mount the way to go?
Nice job and thanks for posting it!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

I slides in easy. The phone must just be against the back of the dock and slid into place. It's one hand operation unlike using a USB cable.
Just super glue the connector in place and let it dry. Once it dries, it will always be in the right position. Then you can remove the phone and apply epoxy to really strengthen the connector.
I don't know how you'd make the mount adjustable. I really just made this because there's no car dock available for the Otter Box.
Again, for full dock capability, use a 619Kohm resistor on the back side of the micro usb connection, between pins 4 and 5.

Thanks for the help

AdamOutler said:
Ok... so now for power... I used a USB port and a regulator... This was an epic failure because pins 2 and 3 on the USB port should have been pulled HIGH to represent this is a charging device. I left them open and the unit appeared to go into USB Powered device mode where my phone was supplying 5V to the charger..... Anyways... this would have worked if I had read up on USB standards first but I ended up going with a 12V adapter stuck into a 12V socket in my ceiling.
Circuit made (should have added a resistor from 5V to the middle two pins)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pins on usb should have been "pulled high"? care to clearify, ive never heard of that term..
with the middle 2 pins open wouldn;t it be the same as powering by USB thru aftermarket charger? I modded my aftermarket charger, pins 2-3 were open, i closed them ( no resistor ) and now it thinks its AC (oem charger).
why would yours output 5v to the cable?
just asking not criticizing...

TRusselo said:
pins on usb should have been "pulled high"? care to clearify, ive never heard of that term..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I do electronics for a living, I use jargon without explaining alot and it looses people.
Pulling a pin high means to apply 5V behind a resistor. It's a digital logic term. Digital logic has only 2 states, high and low (sometimes a 3rd state is Open). In order to maintain a high state on a pin, you use a pull-up resistor. If you've got voltage without current flow, then ohms law does not apply and 5V behind a resistor will be 5V on the other side of the resistor. The reason for the resistor is because if for some reason the pin is pulled low (ground is applied) then there is not a short between 5V and ground.
with the middle 2 pins open wouldn;t it be the same as powering by USB thru aftermarket charger? I modded my aftermarket charger, pins 2-3 were open, i closed them ( no resistor ) and now it thinks its AC (oem charger).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's an excerpt from a good page on USB. http://www.beyondlogic.org/usbnutshell/usb2.shtml
A USB device must indicate its speed by pulling either the D+ or D- line high to 3.3 volts. A full speed device, pictured below will use a pull up resistor attached to D+ to specify itself as a full speed device. These pull up resistors at the device end will also be used by the host or hub to detect the presence of a device connected to its port. Without a pull up resistor, USB assumes there is nothing connected to the bus. Some devices have this resistor built into its silicon, which can be turned on and off under firmware control, others require an external resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why would yours output 5v to the cable?
just asking not criticizing...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really couldn't tell you. I just know I did a search and found out that my charger violated USB standards. Also, when unplugged from wall power, I was receiving 5V on the charger which was illuminating an LED. Don't just leave those pins open. Pull them high.

why would you have to set device speed for a charging circuit?
the usb standards seemed to be assuming a data device (whether it be a mouse or hdd), not just something charging...
and why not close the pins, and enable (poorly worded) "AC" charging mode, for rapid charging?
or add the resistor between the 2 to enable car dock mode automatically?

In Battery Charging Specification, [40] new powering modes are added to the USB specification. A host or hub Charging Downstream Port can supply a maximum of 1.5 A when communicating at low-bandwidth or full-bandwidth, a maximum of 900 mA when communicating at high-bandwidth, and as much current as the connector will safely handle when no communication is taking place; USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1500 mA by default. A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8 A of current at 5.25 V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8 A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200 Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Source: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
I've personally done this to all manner of chargers, including external batteries, car chargers, wall chargers, even made a small make to female dongle that shorts the data pins. All that matters is that the pins being shorted indicates to the phone that it may draw > 500ma, I believe the most this particular device will draw is around 750ma. Note that if this is done, the phone will always indicate ac charging, even if the actual charger is supplying less current.
Also, the desk/car mode resistor goes between pins 4 and 5, not 3 and 4 for those who are wondering
Forgot to mention, nice mod. I have some spare otterbox holsters (they sent me three when my clip broke) so I've got some plans for them, including a car dock.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA Premium App

TRusselo said:
why would you have to set device speed for a charging circuit?
the usb standards seemed to be assuming a data device (whether it be a mouse or hdd), not just something charging...
and why not close the pins, and enable (poorly worded) "AC" charging mode, for rapid charging?
or add the resistor between the 2 to enable car dock mode automatically?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yep. makes sense.
The 6 to 24V regulator would handle a maximum of 1A, which is what you can expect out of most wall chargers and well above the expected input of the device. I just trashed my regulator/USB project when it started powering my 12V bench power supply LED for fear it may damage the phone. If anyone wants to recreate this, the 5V regulator is available at Radio Shack and you'll have to either tear apart a charger/computer/other device or order a USB port. I installed a 12V port near the sunroof in the headliner of my car, then I installed a generic USB car charger and ran a USB cable out of it to my dock.

Cool project. Good to seem someone else using torque. Have you had any success in the 0-60 timing? If i don't dog it, I can get a reading. Once the tires slip, tc kicks in, it is a nogo. (Noticed some updates to the program and t was a complaint on his forum, so I should try again to be fair.)

Modding the Uselss Dock into the Ultimate Media Dock!

Ok, I ordered my first useless dock also from NewEgg.com, only to discover that the HDMI output is (as later specified on the website), only a passthrough HDMI and the HDMI adapter is sold separetly!!!. But none the less, I did received my UD and at least I have the 10.1" slider into which the tab can fit. I will connect this to the new 7" True HDMI dock I also ordered. Wasting money??, well, I'll limit my amount of StarBucks coffees and make up for it.
That was besides the point Have anyone every opened the Dock (7" or useless 10.1") too see what is inside? I got as far as removing the four screws from the bottom on my UD (useless dock) and probably need to pray it open a bit. But have not gotten that far yet, before I started typing ('cause I did a search with not any applicable results) - next time someone is going to ***** at me again for 'have you tried search????' - I'm gonna tell them to let the forum know to get a better search engine - one that actually works. - Again, off the topic. (LOL)
My whole idea is the make the "Ultimate Multimedia Dock" (**** Samsung for selling everything separately if they darn well know it could be one device!) I especially need a SD-card reader (since I sit now with two 32GB cards and a 10.1" tab that cannot read them!)
My idea is to add a USB surface mount female plug inside the dock (after I prayed it open, I will get picks and let you know if it will work) - Something like this.
Slimmer if I can get one - still needs to shop around a bit more. If anyone knows of anything slimmer than the above one let me know, please.
But that is not what I need help with so much..... According to this thread, one can create your own USB Host dongle. I want to build that into the dock.
So that means that whatever the connectors are between the two 30-pin connectors of the dock, needs to be intercepted with the USB connector (pins 1,3,4 &6) and the 20K resistor between 13 & 15.
The idea is mainly to have access to the USB female port as a card reader, while the tab is on the dock and maybe while the charger is connected. I am not so much interested to use the USB port while the HDMI is playing (modding the 7" dock). I would hate to send my 50" TV up in smoke - or the tab for that matter, if both devices are both connected and does not like being together......
Anyone have some diagrams or experience to help figure this out - it is highly appreciated.
Thanks guys & gals!

Got some pics to share.....
Useless dock, inside and out........
Guys, Let's take this thing apart and make it better.....
(will upload soon...)

bert269 said:
Useless dock, inside and out........
Guys, Let's take this thing apart and make it better.....
(will upload now - first have to reboot to get my FTP server on my laptop working.....wbrb)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung has another new Media dock coming, its not like the one thats currently out which sells for $34.99
The new one is supposed to have HDMI out so you don't need the adapter to use it.
The new dock will run $50 and should be available in the fall along with the new bluetooth keyboard case and some new attachments.
This is what Engadget has to say:
Today's Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 event in NYC wasn't just about software -- okay, it was mostly about software, but the company also unveiled a slew of accessories for its slick Android tablet. High atop the list is a number of new docks for the slate, including a $50 Multimedia Dock, which props the device up in landscape mode while charging it and offering HDMI out. The $80 Ultra Productivity Tool, meanwhile, also charges the device and includes a full-sized keyboard with Android shortcut keys. The $150 Premium Protective case turns the Tab into a makeshift notebook with a full-size Bluetooth keyboard and a hinge that lets the user adjust the tab's viewing angle.
A new $40 HDTV adapter gives the tablet full 1080p HDMI output. The company also announced a $40 SD card adapter and a USB adapter for easy accessory input. For $60, Tab owners can pick up the Premium Book Cover, a high end case for the device that lets you prop it up for typing or viewing movies. And somewhere in the distance, you could hear Steve Jobs audibly shudder when the company unveiled a pen stylus for the device. The stylus has an aluminum body and a silicon tip, for when you need to give your fingertips a break. It'll run you $20, and sadly won't include meat.
Engadget sucks with pictures lately, here's a pic of the new dock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4avPDtNJ30&feature=player_embedded
New accessories galore!
Including a speaker dock!?

Pictures as promised...of the opened dock....
OK here are some pictures. I'm sure you all know how the media dock looks, So, I'll skip that one.
Here is a picture of the dock opened. See the huge piece of metal to add some weight not to flip over once the tab is inserted. This will probably need to be replaced with something else (lead?) if I am going to use some room of that for the FemaleUSB socket.https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/J7Inf00abt9o0Nf-Gm7gg_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Next, a closer look at the bottom of the dock - the part we are actually more interested in, right?https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CwqnYp8FNvxAY4kue68JU_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Now I removed the three black screws that keep the metal weight in place - not hard at all:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8O15xTNYWKv5LgWhSsAnXvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Ah-ha - this opens up a new dimension to the project. Now we can actually see what we are dealing with.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zXx7uDAbMHMuaFHn1cJ5d_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Look at the space at the bottom of the circuit board...hmmmm, I am sure we can fit a 1/4Watt 20k resistor in here (or more if we need to). But let me first remove that circuit board to see what's cook'n down there:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zrInv-Skb5adgNjayj0MZvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
And the circuit board flipped over.....
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1LbhnrVErUO7TqINqazybvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
I can't really decide what is better, to solder onto this board or to make the USB Host adapter cable directly onto the 30-pin plug. I already messed up one connector for trying to solder onto those microscopic, tiny pins (and ended up with a piece of solder INSIDE the connector). I almost think here are more work-space on the bottom of this circuit board - for a resistor - or two-
What does the experts think ??
Look at that - my prediction was right. Look at all the space underneath the board:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tsndKQRzvPv2mOjS3dau-vIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
OK, so where do we go from here?
NOW I need some experts to tell me the best option to get the USB host adapter connected between the two 30-pin connectors.....
!!!! HELP !!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Some good news.....surely....
NCX Designs said:
Samsung has another new Media dock coming, its not like the one thats currently out which sells for $34.99
The new one is supposed to have HDMI out so you don't need the adapter to use it.
The new dock will run $50 and should be available in the fall along with the new bluetooth keyboard case and some new attachments.
This is what Engadget has to say:
.....
Engadget sucks with pictures lately, here's a pic of the new dock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4avPDtNJ30&feature=player_embedded
New accessories galore!
Including a speaker dock!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...and spending more money while limiting yourself......only one device at a time connected - you cannot add the sd-card adapter AND charge your device at the same time - or watch a movie when the juice is low.....That is why I want to expand the USB Host cable idea a bit further, by getting that into the dock. The dremel tool can do wanders.
But first I need to know what to do, then I can decide where. As you can see from my pictures, there are space in there to park a Ferrari also....LOL
Thanks for this update - appreciated.

bert269 said:
OK here are some pictures. I'm sure you all know how the media dock looks, So, I'll skip that one.
Here is a picture of the dock opened. See the huge piece of metal to add some weight not to flip over once the tab is inserted. This will probably need to be replaced with something else (lead?) if I am going to use some room of that for the FemaleUSB socket.https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/J7Inf00abt9o0Nf-Gm7gg_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Next, a closer look at the bottom of the dock - the part we are actually more interested in, right?https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CwqnYp8FNvxAY4kue68JU_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Now I removed the three black screws that keep the metal weight in place - not hard at all:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8O15xTNYWKv5LgWhSsAnXvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Ah-ha - this opens up a new dimension to the project. Now we can actually see what we are dealing with.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zXx7uDAbMHMuaFHn1cJ5d_Ix_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
Look at the space at the bottom of the circuit board...hmmmm, I am sure we can fit a 1/4Watt 20k resistor in here (or more if we need to). But let me first remove that circuit board to see what's cook'n down there:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zrInv-Skb5adgNjayj0MZvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
And the circuit board flipped over.....
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1LbhnrVErUO7TqINqazybvIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
I can't really decide what is better, to solder onto this board or to make the USB Host adapter cable directly onto the 30-pin plug. I already messed up one connector for trying to solder onto those microscopic, tiny pins (and ended up with a piece of solder INSIDE the connector). I almost think here are more work-space on the bottom of this circuit board - for a resistor - or two-
What does the experts think ??
Look at that - my prediction was right. Look at all the space underneath the board:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tsndKQRzvPv2mOjS3dau-vIx_Iq3rFxo94LvnO8xF0c?feat=directlink
OK, so where do we go from here?
NOW I need some experts to tell me the best option to get the USB host adapter connected between the two 30-pin connectors.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Based on what you can find in this thread that discusses the creation of a USBhost/USBpower combo from the 30pin male connector you can buy, the MHL pins, which is what transports the HDMI signals, are left unused. The HDMI adapter samsung sells has the MHL chip that decodes to HDMI. I have been unable to find a female 30pin connector, but if you had that, you could pass those pins, probably with a connection to power and ground (from the same pins that are used for USB power, through to the samsung hdmi adapter. This would give you a connector that had the ability to charge, use usbhost, and still pass through HDMI, all at the same time. If I could find that female connector, I would build that in a heartbeat.
The other option you have is to take a razor, or something equally as sharp, and start cutting traces on the board that go to the female port on the back of the useless dock. You could then install the previously mentioned host and charging ports on the dock and solder them to the cut traces inside the dock. Then you would just need the hdmi adapter outside of the dock.
I'm gonna look at your pics again, and then I'll post one other idea I have.

used2hvatreo said:
...I have been unable to find a female 30pin connector, but if you had that, you could pass those pins, probably with a connection to power and ground (from the same pins that are used for USB power, through to the samsung hdmi adapter. This would give you a connector that had the ability to charge, use usbhost, and still pass through HDMI, all at the same time. If I could find that female connector, I would build that in a heartbeat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I contacted Kineteka (who sells the male connector and pin-out connector right now) and here's the reply on the female connector:
Female Galaxy Tab connectors are not available at the moment. When they are we will have them.
Regards,
Mike Eber
www.kineteka.com
800-635-6058

cleblanc92 said:
I contacted Kineteka (who sells the male connector and pin-out connector right now) and here's the reply on the female connector:
Female Galaxy Tab connectors are not available at the moment. When they are we will have them.
Regards,
Mike Eber
www.kineteka.com
800-635-6058
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats hilarious, I just called them to ask the same question.

thanks for your valueable feedback
used2hvatreo said:
Based on what you can find in this thread that discusses the creation of a USBhost/USBpower combo from the 30pin male connector you can buy, the MHL pins, which is what transports the HDMI signals, are left unused. The HDMI adapter samsung sells has the MHL chip that decodes to HDMI. I have been unable to find a female 30pin connector, but if you had that, you could pass those pins, probably with a connection to power and ground (from the same pins that are used for USB power, through to the samsung hdmi adapter. This would give you a connector that had the ability to charge, use usbhost, and still pass through HDMI, all at the same time. If I could find that female connector, I would build that in a heartbeat.
The other option you have is to take a razor, or something equally as sharp, and start cutting traces on the board that go to the female port on the back of the useless dock. You could then install the previously mentioned host and charging ports on the dock and solder them to the cut traces inside the dock. Then you would just need the hdmi adapter outside of the dock.
I'm gonna look at your pics again, and then I'll post one other idea I have.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am much more interested in the second option you have mentioned, since I do not care that much about HDMI at this stage. (I have ordered the 7" true HDMI device for this). My main plan is to add the USB Host into the useless dock. Since it looks like there will be more than enough room for the 20K resistor, my concern was if it is going to work, to intercept the signal between the two 30pin adaptes currently in the useless dock, using the plans for the USBHost?
I will see if I can find the time this weekend to work on it.
Again, thank you!
Curious to know what other idea you have too - let me know.

I'm going to follow this. because I had the same thing in mind. I've got 2 of those desktop dochs an the keyboard dock.
If I sucessfully mod one of the desktop docks I would also consider doing the same to the keyboard dock.

so, the 10.1 useless dock is just a pass through on a blank circuit board with breakouts for the power adapter.
you can easily put the usb host port on to this doc. i would probably solder to either of the connectors' mount points.
the hdmi dock and dongle etc use a silicon image chip which you can't get without signing an NDA
semiconductor store
however, there are several generic micro usb to hdmi dongles which were created for the mhl compatible phones. you can rip off the micro usb port and map it to the mhl pinouts on the 30pin connector. you're pushing $20 at that point which is near the best prices of what you can buy the 7" dock for.

This project looks like a great idea, I have just ordered related componenets from Kineteka to build this up my self. I have 2 questions though - can anyone confirm if there is any issue plugging in a USB MicroSD/SD card reader into the USB host?
My intention:
Mod the Dock - USB Host /w Charging Capabilities
1x USB Female Port -
1x SD/MicroSD Card reader
Im aware that having 2x USB reliant ports will require external power onto a USB Hub but to have this functionality would be worth having extra power.
Second question slightly related - Im looking at buying the samsung book cover case for this device - can anyone confirm if it fits within the UD with the cover attached?
Any comments/ideas welcome.

tff2011 said:
This project looks like a great idea, I have just ordered related componenets from Kineteka to build this up my self. I have 2 questions though - can anyone confirm if there is any issue plugging in a USB MicroSD/SD card reader into the USB host?
My intention:
Mod the Dock - USB Host /w Charging Capabilities
1x USB Female Port -
1x SD/MicroSD Card reader
Im aware that having 2x USB reliant ports will require external power onto a USB Hub but to have this functionality would be worth having extra power.
Second question slightly related - Im looking at buying the samsung book cover case for this device - can anyone confirm if it fits within the UD with the cover attached?
Any comments/ideas welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Book cover case does not fit the standard dock, I had to chop mine up to make it fit.

bert269 said:
Ok, I ordered my first useless dock also from NewEgg.com, only to discover that the HDMI output is (as later specified on the website), only a passthrough HDMI and the HDMI adapter is sold separetly!!!. But none the less, I did received my UD and at least I have the 10.1" slider into which the tab can fit. I will connect this to the new 7" True HDMI dock I also ordered. Wasting money??, well, I'll limit my amount of StarBucks coffees and make up for it.
That was besides the point Have anyone every opened the Dock (7" or useless 10.1") too see what is inside? I got as far as removing the four screws from the bottom on my UD (useless dock) and probably need to pray it open a bit. But have not gotten that far yet, before I started typing ('cause I did a search with not any applicable results) - next time someone is going to ***** at me again for 'have you tried search????' - I'm gonna tell them to let the forum know to get a better search engine - one that actually works. - Again, off the topic. (LOL)
My whole idea is the make the "Ultimate Multimedia Dock" (**** Samsung for selling everything separately if they darn well know it could be one device!) I especially need a SD-card reader (since I sit now with two 32GB cards and a 10.1" tab that cannot read them!)
My idea is to add a USB surface mount female plug inside the dock (after I prayed it open, I will get picks and let you know if it will work) - Something like this.
Slimmer if I can get one - still needs to shop around a bit more. If anyone knows of anything slimmer than the above one let me know, please.
But that is not what I need help with so much..... According to this thread, one can create your own USB Host dongle. I want to build that into the dock.
So that means that whatever the connectors are between the two 30-pin connectors of the dock, needs to be intercepted with the USB connector (pins 1,3,4 &6) and the 20K resistor between 13 & 15.
The idea is mainly to have access to the USB female port as a card reader, while the tab is on the dock and maybe while the charger is connected. I am not so much interested to use the USB port while the HDMI is playing (modding the 7" dock). I would hate to send my 50" TV up in smoke - or the tab for that matter, if both devices are both connected and does not like being together......
Anyone have some diagrams or experience to help figure this out - it is highly appreciated.
Thanks guys & gals!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I was just having a conversation in a different thread about this. I'm considering design the HW for this. I'm going to create a block diagram and then a schematic. My thought is exactly what you are saying. Being able to us a USB Hard drive while the device is charging from the wall. I think that will also give you the ability to use a non powered USB hard drive with this as well. I can't say for sure. I still have to look some things up but I think its possible.

Bxsteez said:
Interesting. I was just having a conversation in a different thread about this. I'm considering design the HW for this. I'm going to create a block diagram and then a schematic. My thought is exactly what you are saying. Being able to us a USB Hard drive while the device is charging from the wall. I think that will also give you the ability to use a non powered USB hard drive with this as well. I can't say for sure. I still have to look some things up but I think its possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might run into an issue power wise. I have not looked thru the threads in awhile, but my guess would be that the power you need to run the hard drive (amps wise) might be too much and cause the tablet not to charge at regular speed. I can help with a power circuit design if you need any help.

used2hvatreo said:
You might run into an issue power wise. I have not looked thru the threads in awhile, but my guess would be that the power you need to run the hard drive (amps wise) might be too much and cause the tablet not to charge at regular speed. I can help with a power circuit design if you need any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is sorta what I thought but i'm not 100% sure of the current output of charger and at the same time I'm thinking a 500mA draw would be like charging the device through any USB port which I agree would be slower but might still be adequate for this use since i'm thinking if you are using this configuration it will be sitting for a while. Maybe if I could even balance the power draw with the power output. Then it wouldn't charge but it would die either. Who knows....
I'm trying to get some information on the signals on the 30pin. I'm not sure if the pin 7 and 8 are inputs for the charging circuit. I might just have to buy a cable and break it down and find out.

Bxsteez said:
That is sorta what I thought but i'm not 100% sure of the current output of charger and at the same time I'm thinking a 500mA draw would be like charging the device through any USB port which I agree would be slower but might still be adequate for this use since i'm thinking if you are using this configuration it will be sitting for a while. Maybe if I could even balance the power draw with the power output. Then it wouldn't charge but it would die either. Who knows....
I'm trying to get some information on the signals on the 30pin. I'm not sure if the pin 7 and 8 are inputs for the charging circuit. I might just have to buy a cable and break it down and find out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this information what you are looking for?

I've found this so that pretty much answer my questions. I will get started on a block diagram and schematic. I have to do a little research on the power consumption of USB Hard drives.
---------- Post added at 09:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 AM ----------
used2hvatreo said:
Is this information what you are looking for?
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haha that is hilarious. That is exactly what i was just posting about lol..

Let me know what you think of this.... It is a rough idea of how I think the circuit should work.
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Bxsteez said:
Let me know what you think of this.... It is a rough idea of how I think the circuit should work.
****EDIT***(FIXED ERROR)
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I didn't completely analyze it, but with a quick look, it looks pretty good.
I don't see any serious circuit issues that could really mess something up. (there could be data connectivity issues, i don't know much about all that)

microUSB to maglock kit?

Ever since I got the S2 I've been a bit concerned about that stupid microUSB port. Unlike the Apple 30 pin on my old iPhone or the Samsung 30 pin on my Galaxy Tab, the microUSB connection seems about as sturdy as a matchstick holding up a house. Standard USB my ass, I'd take something sturdy any day.
Anyways, I figured that with all the microUSB devices supposedly out there, someone would have had to have fixed this by now. Then I searched around and found nothing. Basically what I'm imagining is a simple USB plug that plugs into the connector and expands the USB plug to 4 magnetic connection points similar to the magsafe thing on apple's macbooks or the magnetic cable on the blackberry playbook. You'd then have an adapter on the cable that would snap to the magnetic connector on the phone and allow you to connect the two without stressing your microUSB and also make it faster to get connected.
Is there really nothing like this out there?
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id get a patent on that quickly if i were you.

Too lazy to get it produced myself so I'm just happy if somone does it at all

Wouldn't the magnet interfere with the magnetic sensor of the phone?

KBS720 said:
Wouldn't the magnet interfere with the magnetic sensor of the phone?
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Magnetic sensor? You mean the digital compass? Not any more than the Smart Cover would do that for an iPad 2, or any case with a battery lock would do it. Very small magnets we're talking about here, their magnetic effect is next to nothing unless directly paired with another magnet.
Here's the kind of magnet I'd imagine being used:
Aside from the Apple and RIM versions of this, the closest I can think of is the Replug: http://www.replug.com/home.php
Not magnetic, and only for audio. Ofc doesn't have to be magnetic if the concept still works, but pretty much have to be microUSB
If you look at the HTC Rhyme, it comes with a charging dock that uses the more common spring loaded pin connection system: http://img.gfx.no/993/993523/topp1.788x525!.JPG
There are pins on the back of the phone that matches up with the three you can see on the cradle. I would be happy with simply something like that, I just don't like how thin and fragile the microUSB connector is compared to 30 pin connectors

You'd just be replacing one cable with another, kinda pointless if you ask me. MicroUSB seems sturdy enough to me

Joey2o11 said:
You'd just be replacing one cable with another, kinda pointless if you ask me. MicroUSB seems sturdy enough to me
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It's pretty much a safety feature. No more risk of the USB port bending or anything.
For example, my charger won't reach from the wall socket to my bedside table, so I leave it on the floor. Sometimes when walking around in the morning my foot pulls the cable and yanks my SGS2 across the room. With a magnetic connector like this it would simply disconnect and the phone would stay in pretty much the same place instead of getting dragged around with the cable.

D3_ said:
It's pretty much a safety feature. No more risk of the USB port bending or anything.
For example, my charger won't reach from the wall socket to my bedside table, so I leave it on the floor. Sometimes when walking around in the morning my foot pulls the cable and yanks my SGS2 across the room. With a magnetic connector like this it would simply disconnect and the phone would stay in pretty much the same place instead of getting dragged around with the cable.
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Exactly, furthermore, the microUSB port would be protected from dust and debris, and not have a connector plugged in and out of the thing all the time. Since I got my SII a few weeks ago and started reading up on it I've seen multiple people have microUSB port issues, so it's obviously not that sturdy.
A third benefit would be a universal connector. MicroUSB is technically a universal connector, but take my situation - an iPad 2, Galaxy Tab 7.0 Plus and an SII. Three different connectors for charging and USB. And two of the devices are the same brand! Say what you want about Apple, but when I had an iPhone and an iPad, at least I only needed one charger, one cable. Here I am with two 2011 generation Samsung devices and they're not even compatible. What's even more ironic, Apple has a 30 pin to microUSB adapter now. Where is the Samsung version of that to make the Galaxy Tab microUSB? A magnetic system like this would allow me to plug a magnetic plug into each of my three devices and use the same magnetic cable with them. This could be expanded with receiver adapters - imagine a Apple 30 pin female connector and a magnetic receiver connector all in one small package that would turn any iPhone dock into a whatever-dock.

Honnestly, production of this could lead to something great. But dont forget that microUSB has 5 pins, so you need 5 small magnet this device could be also made for anyother usb port variant. You would then have an universal usb magnetic port.
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chadouming said:
Honnestly, production of this could lead to something great. But dont forget that microUSB has 5 pins, so you need 5 small magnet this device could be also made for anyother usb port variant. You would then have an universal usb magnetic port.
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It does, but only uses 4 of them. The last one triggers USB host mode when connected to ground. Normal sized USB is only 4 pins so where you make that move from 5 to 4 doesn't matter

Cptnodegard said:
It does, but only uses 4 of them. The last one triggers USB host mode when connected to ground. Normal sized USB is only 4 pins so where you make that move from 5 to 4 doesn't matter
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Theorically, this pin might become usefull one day better having it already open for possibility
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Can I revive this post?
I've been looking for something like this for awhile now and I keep coming back to this post. I'm currently in the process of building a magnetic quick attach micro USB plug, but only for charging. I have bare female and male plugs and some 2mm x 1mm neodymium magnets, and now I just need to create the housing. Probably going to use fimo clay for the prototype.
My biggest problem is creating the connection point between the plug and the receiver. Can't have anything exposed connections on either end, because of electrical shorts and mismatched polarities. Don't need any more fried devices laying around.
The main motivation for this, is charging a phone at night in the dark; it'd make life a little easier. It would also be handy for charging while in the cradle on the dash of a car.
Any ideas or creative input? I'll post photos when I have something to show.

abrahamrobert said:
Can I revive this post?
I've been looking for something like this for awhile now and I keep coming back to this post. I'm currently in the process of building a magnetic quick attach micro USB plug, but only for charging. I have bare female and male plugs and some 2mm x 1mm neodymium magnets, and now I just need to create the housing. Probably going to use fimo clay for the prototype.
My biggest problem is creating the connection point between the plug and the receiver. Can't have anything exposed connections on either end, because of electrical shorts and mismatched polarities. Don't need any more fried devices laying around.
The main motivation for this, is charging a phone at night in the dark; it'd make life a little easier. It would also be handy for charging while in the cradle on the dash of a car.
Any ideas or creative input? I'll post photos when I have something to show.
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I'm always encouraging hardware hacking, and giving a hand if possible, but this is dangerous, and I'll tell you why.
http://www.instructables.com/id/MagSafe-for-the-Rest-of-Us-A-DIY-Magnetic-Power-A/
This is a project that landed on Instuctables a while ago, but the main flaws were these:
)Resistance added by the magnet/copper coupling to attach the two ends, thus heat/other undesirable side effects;
)Sparks, caused by the two sides turning freely.
So, in order to achieve some kind of usability, you would have to ensure that the phone does not provide power to the socket (otherwise you would expose yourself to shorts), and that you could make a rectangular/non-circular plug small enough for it to sit in the micro usb all the time; plus, it should not have a high resistance, so that it would not generate too much heat, slowing down the charge at best, cooking the phone at worst.
All this looks quite complicated to me :/

Guys I thought I would revive this post to any one following or watching, I have also been looking for this and I think our prayers have been answered:
SNAPS Kick starter
I cant post links till i have posted 10 times so search Google for SNAPS Kick Starter
I think this KickStarter is what everyone is looking for. A mag safe type of connector for Micro USB and for Lightning connection. The price is amazing and this is not a concept this is a 'we already have everything just the bigger the first order the better'.
There is also this on Amazon but it only comes with a USB end to plug into a wall wart or computer so if you have a cable inside your car etc you cant convert it you would have to replace it if you can
Again cant post links so search google for "PLESON Premium Magnetic cable Micro USB Cables" it will be on amazon.
I hope this helps everyone and if someone else can post links please do so to these products so others can benefit form them!

Caspan said:
Guys I thought I would revive this post to any one following or watching, I have also been looking for this and I think our prayers have been answered:
SNAPS Kick starter
I cant post links till i have posted 10 times so search Google for SNAPS Kick Starter
I think this KickStarter is what everyone is looking for. A mag safe type of connector for Micro USB and for Lightning connection. The price is amazing and this is not a concept this is a 'we already have everything just the bigger the first order the better'.
There is also this on Amazon but it only comes with a USB end to plug into a wall wart or computer so if you have a cable inside your car etc you cant convert it you would have to replace it if you can
Again cant post links so search google for "PLESON Premium Magnetic cable Micro USB Cables" it will be on amazon.
I hope this helps everyone and if someone else can post links please do so to these products so others can benefit form them!
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yeah.. i found it a week ago, https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1041610927/znaps-the-9-magnetic-adapter-for-your-mobile-devic
but.. they need to answer the questions of security also.. liko that post above of instructables..

this smartphone is horrible, iphone 4s is the best phone of the history , you understand it?!!!