Develop Bugs

Line out + charge cable for car installation?

Hi all,
Im looking for a cable that will let me charge my SGS2 and feed audio to the car stereo. Can I do that? And, if not, are there any line-out cables for the GS2 w/o the charging capability?
Thanks
Marcel

you can always grab the sound from the headphone jack. But it might not be ideal, because the headphone jack is on top.
Would be easier too use bluetooth instead..
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App

I have been interested in doing the same and the only option I found so far is Samsungs Car Dock. It provides both a charging option and audio. I am hoping more options become available within the next few months. One manufacturer to watch is Proclip. They specialize in car mounts and have quite a few with built in dock (for the IPod/iPhone anyway). Plan to email them to see if they have anything in the works.
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App

cbb77 said:
I have been interested in doing the same and the only option I found so far is Samsungs Car Dock. It provides both a charging option and audio. I am hoping more options become available within the next few months. One manufacturer to watch is Proclip. They specialize in car mounts and have quite a few with built in dock (for the IPod/iPhone anyway). Plan to email them to see if they have anything in the works.
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but the iPhone/i**** pinout is known and provides direct line out where the SGS2 uses some ASIC to process some signal over USB into audio. Not saying Samsung won't make this spec available to Accessory Vendors but what kind of accessory vendor wants to develop their own ASIC? Too much cost involved.
The Samsung desktop dock will also work in the car but would be hard to mount. It has Line Out level for audio, but there is no real advantage to using this over the headphone out unless the quality is better. Can't know for sure I'm fresh out of Oscilloscopes...

supermult said:
Would be easier too use bluetooth instead..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No Bluetooth in a old Volvo and I'm looking for a simple yet functional solution. Pairing BT every time and/or having BT on all the time doesn't seem good to me.
Poulsen8r said:
The Samsung desktop dock will also work in the car but would be hard to mount. It has Line Out level for audio, but there is no real advantage to using this over the headphone out unless the quality is better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest, for me the advantage is one less cable to worry about. Another thing is that my windscreen is under such angle that straight audio jack from top of the device makes it impossible to point the phone in the direction of my face.
Any desktop / car dock owner interested in dissassembling their stuff to see how it works?
I know that with the correct resistor you can get analog line-out from the usb plug. Just not sure if the vcc line charges the phone or provides energy to a accessory then. Either way, I'm starting to think about doing it the DIY way.

monoik said:
I know that with the correct resistor you can get analog line-out from the usb plug. Just not sure if the vcc line charges the phone or provides energy to a accessory then. Either way, I'm starting to think about doing it the DIY way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am interested in doing this too - If anyone can get me the details on what resister/pins etc, I would be more then happy to test it out and report back

This forum is priceless. There you go!
kiattivikrai said:
The orginal Desktop Dock use data +/- as the audio line. But you need to jump pin 4 with a 365K resitor to activate this mode.
PIN:
1 : VCC
2 : D-: AUDIO LINE OUT L/R
3 : D+: AUDIO LINE OUT R/L
4 : SENSE ( CONNECT WITH SMALL 365K TO GND )
5 : GND
Check this link for more info.
modmomun.blogspot.com/2011/07/disassembly-samsung-galaxy-s2-ii.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ED: I can't get it from the text, but it seems that it'll charge the phone! thunderbox666, if you try it, please send me a note! Maybe I'll do it as well. The only culprit is that this seems to put the phone in the "home dock" mode...
ED2: ok, got it:
alx37 said:
You need a micro usb connector.
Pin 1 connect to +5V
Pin 2 + 3 connect to audio l + r, Ground to Pin 5
Pin 4 connect to Pin 5 via 620k Ohm Resistor -> this triggers Car dock mode
Pin 5 connect to Ground
Go to Settings/Dock Settings/Audio-Output-mode
Pin 1 is right when the connector is in the SGS II and the screen is visible.
Voila, ALexander
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now, just get all the parts and get going!

monoik said:
thunderbox666, if you try it, please send me a note! Maybe I'll do it as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
will do - hell if it works I may even write up a step by step and post it
monoik said:
Now, just get all the parts and get going!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already working on this bit - only thing I think I still need is the resistor

WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOO it worked.... Will post pictures shortly
Just have to tidy up my soldering
edit:
(still not the neatest)
So everything works, although I still need to solder in the other speaker wires - But even with left and ground, it still plays in both speakers.
As soon as you plug it in, it goes to Car mode and starts charging
I did have to go into the settings and enable line out before it would play through the USB
But here are the pictures of it as it is....
Edit 2:
In case anyone was wondering, I also tested this with a 360k ohm resistor (couldn't source a 365k one yet) and it launched it into the home dock straight away

Stupid question. But car dock and home dock are the same huh? So the 360k does the same job as the 620k resistor. If so I'm wondering if anything between 360k and 620k all work.
Edit: So after a little searching, yeh amasing huh, they are different dock modes. Cool. I'm aiming for using poweramp, sygic gps and google maps (and probably voice talk which seemed to work using internal mic and car speakers. Guess the second mike stops the feedback loops) so guessing car dock is more suited

So now I'm guessing that the normal desktop dock mode might work better for me seeing you can change the shortcuts and have a shortcut for poweramp and sygic. I believe the car mode uses the samsung audio player and the gps is google maps?
Is the car dock mode fixed or can the shortcuts be customised? I believe car dock mode can automatically turn voice recognition on although this doesn't work well with the Australian accent.

pbrown77 said:
So now I'm guessing that the normal desktop dock mode might work better for me seeing you can change the shortcuts and have a shortcut for poweramp and sygic. I believe the car mode uses the samsung audio player and the gps is google maps?
Is the car dock mode fixed or can the shortcuts be customised? I believe car dock mode can automatically turn voice recognition on although this doesn't work well with the Australian accent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah you cant really customise the car dock one - well at least I havent found a way yet.
I havent had any issue with it understanding my aussie accent..... yet

Hi guys,
I managed to complete my cable. You can call it a developer preview, cause I didn't have the correct resistor and just to try if it works i joined what I had to create 370k.
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I started off with the black part. I bought a Micro USB A to micro USB B cable, hoping that the fourth pin will be connected between the plugs. That is not obvious, since this pin is not used in the USB connection. Unfortunately my cable had only four wires and the shield:
So, I had to open the plug to attach the resistor. As I mentioned, I only had 5x~67k and one 30k resistor, so I connected them and it was close enough for the home dock mode to work:
The white part of the cable comes from my old aftermarket line-out cable for my previous iPhone 3G. I wanted to use it almost without cutting it, but I learned that one of the lines was disconnected, so most of it had to be replaced.
After considerable amount of soldering I plugged in the cable to my stereo and the USB port on my PC and guess what? It worked!
Here are two more shots of the crucial part of the cable. I made the chinch cables detachable just because I had such cables.
I also realized too late that I had no GND for the USB connector, so I made a very lame bridge in the shape of the letter Z. But it works!
What's left to do? Replace the resistor and figure out how to reseal the plug with it inside. Also, seal the soldered part, maybe in duct tape, I'll see.

So I finalised my cable but used a 360k resistor because I liked the desktop dock more due to changing shortcuts... Then found the google car dock apk and that works well and is customisable.
But the biggest downfall is that the voice is not routed through the usb port, only music.... So sorta gets rid of a good function that I expected to use4... hands free calling. It works well if I use the 3.5mm plug with no unwanted feedback using my car stereo and the SGS2's internal mic.
Anyone have any idea whether the audio out through the usb can't do voice calls because of a hardware or software limitation. I'm guessing its software and the limitation has not been cracked yet... Wonder why Samsung haven't allowed voice out through the usb port.

This is awesome! Though I'm having alot of trouble following your pictures, any chance you could post a diagram?

AussieHusky said:
This is awesome! Though I'm having alot of trouble following your pictures, any chance you could post a diagram?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure! Right now I'm going out, but in the evening (4-5 hours from now) I'll scribble something down.

AussieHusky said:
This is awesome! Though I'm having alot of trouble following your pictures, any chance you could post a diagram?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Edit: DO NOT USE MY PREVIOUSLY ATTACHED PIN OUT. I DREW IT WITH PIN 1 WHERE PIN 5 IS. I WISH I COULD SHOUT LOUDER..
To be updated.

AussieHusky said:
This is awesome! Though I'm having alot of trouble following your pictures, any chance you could post a diagram?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is my rough drawing. Someone else might spend more time or convey it easier than I have. The solder pads on my plug were as shown. If you have 3 pads on top and 2 underneath then they will be the same as my drawing.
Note that any micro usb to usb cable will probably only have 4 pins wired up as usb only has 4 pins. This is why you need to strip the micro usb plug cover off to get to the extra pins solder pad.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PIN 1 AS THE +5V FROM YOUR CHARGER AND NOT CONNECTED TO ANOTHER PIN. THIS IS PROBABLY THE ONLY ONES THAT CAN STUFF YOUR DEVICE.
I have tried to find the link that shows what pad is connected to what pin but can't locate it easily. I did however make sure that pin 1 was the only one with power before plugging it in. All other pins being wrong will just mean it won't work. Here is a link for the pin out fro micro usb http://www.accesscomms.com.au/reference/usb.htm

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10827&cs_id=1082704&p_id=7364&seq=1&format=2

dmunjal said:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10827&cs_id=1082704&p_id=7364&seq=1&format=2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the link. Have you tried it? Personally I'd prefer the wired route but because of the lack of voice calls I may look at this product. Its an option for cars without Bluetooth but have a wired input. Also good for in home use without a physical wire. Although the connection for power will still be needed.
The signal to noise is quite high so the extra hiss shouldn't be too noticeable. But the 70Hz low end frequency limitation is not very good and I'm concerned that on a decent sound system the lows might not be that great. Can you comment?

[MOD] Pogo Pin Charging for Verizon Car Dock

I posted this earlier in the long thread about the official car dock with pogo pins that has still not been released but I don't want to derail the main topic of that thread so here is a new one, with a bit more detail added.
I have the steps that I actually took to do this listed below. I think there is probably room for improvement and many ways to accomplish the same end result depending on whatever strong skills you may have or what tools you happen to have. Not every step has a picture associated with it because either I couldn't hold a camera and do it at the same time or it just wasn't worth it to photograph a mundane task like tracing a line.
Also, keep in mind I was doing this for a GSM nexus. I can test whether an LTE nexus (both standard & extended battery) will charge in the dock sometime on Tuesday or Wednesday.
Tools & materials used are described throughout. After the steps/pictures I have some concluding thoughts including some lessons learned, things I would do differently, and some alternate ideas others might wish to consider.
DISCLAIMER: Bad photography ahead.
Step 1: Grab a good beer, somehow these things always take longer than you expect.
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Step 2: Tape the phone & dock where you will be measuring with a caliper or holding it in a vise. I used masking tape which turned out to have the extra benefit of being able to see the contact points through it. Take a lot of measurements. You end up drilling the dock blindly so your results all start in how carefully you measure things. Don't use the numbers on my caliper for your own use... Somewhere around the time of these pictures I accidently zeroed the caliper so I don't know which ones are showing correct values or not. I only realized this because I measured everything again and realized something wasn't right with the numbers.
Step 3: Double check your measurements, make sure everything is square... I want to say the following picture is over board on my part... but it really is a fine line between making contact b/w the pins and the phone 100% of the time, 50% of the time, or hardly ever.
Step 4: I used a pencil to trace a line from the contacts up the side of the phone, and onto the front glass. I then place the phone in the dock and put a new piece of tape from the edge of the phone around the edge of the dock and traced the line back over the dock so that I had a good reference for where to drill in the side-to-side dimension. The vertical dimension was purely based off my measurement from the face of the phone down to the contact points. Because the glass is curved, take separate measurements for each pin.
Step 5: At this point I used a 1/16" drill bit to make two holes and then pushed the pogo pins through. Before proceeding I hooked up 5V power using aligator clips to the pins and put the phone in the dock just to make sure everything was in the right place before I really made anything permanent. In this picture the pins are only held in place by friction. The dock is very rubbery at this location which is nice for holding the pins in place. You can see how well you lined up the holes by placing the phone in the dock and looking through the holes. You absolutely want to see the entire gold contact nicely centered in there. If not, fix things now before proceeding.
Step 6: I then took a car charger and cut the micro USB end off. There really isn't much to picture here. I happened to use a car charger with a permanently attached cord so there were no data wires. If you use a USB cord that contains 4 wires, usually red, green, white, and black, just tape off the green and white (date + & data -), and use the red (+ 5V DC) and black (ground). The pogo pin closest to the power button is the ground and the pin closest to the bottom is for 5V (I confirmed this for both the LTE & GSM models). Middle pin, assuming the same paradigm used for the nexus one, is for signaling the type of dock and the bluetooth id of the dock.
Step 7: I soldered the 5V and GND wires to the pins as described, sealed some exposed conductor with heat shrink, and used an epoxy to permanently seal them in place. You want to make sure you use an epoxy that bonds plastic and I would also recommend one that advertises some level of flex/gel. If it's too rigid or poorly bonded to plastic you could end up cracking off on the very first insertion. Make absolutely sure that the pogo pin plunger is the only part of the pogo pin that is on the inside of the dock. Even a small portion of the rigid part will cause you problems when you push the phone in and it pops the pins back out or damages the epoxy.
So, did it work...
After waiting enough time for the epoxy to set I got what I had hoped for.
I also added an NFC tag to the inside that I'm using to turn on bluetooth, set car mode, etc, etc...
Here's a few extra pics:
It successfully charges my GSM nexus with both the standard and extended battery. It would appear to me that the dock holds the phone with the position of the front glass relative to the lip of the dock in a constant position. So I'm assuming my wife's LTE nexus will be able to charge on the dock as well (will test on Tuesday/Wednesday). That would be really good news for VZW people who aren't up to the modification but would like to buy the GSM dock if it ever comes to market. At this point at least, it can concluded that it's possible to make a dock that charges the GSM model with both the standard and extended battery with the pogo pins in a fixed position.
Now that it's been done once the thing that would make this an extremely fast and easy mod in my mind would be a drill guide jig. An L-shaped jig with drill guide holes that you simple place against a reference point on the dock and drill in the holes and never have to worry about all that measuring and how well you measure.
I also wish I hadn't soldered the pins to a fixed car charger. Now I'm tied to that thing unless I want to cut the cord and splice a new USB plug on the end. In hindsight I actually wish I had used a 2 conductor "boot" close to the pogo pins that would allow me change the cord easy and provide some level of emergency strain relief or break-free ability if the cord were to get yanked. On the topic of strain relief, this is why I recommend right angle leads off the pogo pins. It also might be a good idea to adhere the cord to a spot on the back of the part that holds the phone so that a snap tug on the cord pulls on that and not your pogo pin connection. It feels very durable and I don't expect any problems it's just something I would recommend.
As for the NFC tag, I would use the thin adhesive tags, you don't want anything thick enough to change the contact position. I used a 1K tag so that there was plenty of storage for long instructions/information that may be handy to write to it. Right now it just launches car home, maxes the media volume, starts bluetooth, turns off wifi, and sets a high brightness level.
Finally, I wish I had gone ahead and installed a middle pogo pin with a free hanging wire lead off of it. Just in case I felt up to going down that rabbit hole in the future. I wish I still had a nexus one dock around to see if the signal pin on those docks would communicate on the galaxy nexus middle pin. I know, different OEMs (HTC) but the code is Google's so I figure there's a 50/50 chance it actually would work.
Your move, Samsung.

Definitely going to try this. Where'd you get the pogo pins?
Also, the third pin ::should:: be shorted to ground to trigger car dock, if that's the purpose of it.
Keep in mind that the OEM GSM dock plays music through those 3 pins somehow, though it makes no sense to me whatsoever. Not enough pins.

Jewremy said:
Definitely going to try this. Where'd you get the pogo pins?
Also, the third pin ::should:: be shorted to ground to trigger car dock, if that's the purpose of it.
Keep in mind that the OEM GSM dock plays music through those 3 pins somehow, though it makes no sense to me whatsoever. Not enough pins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stock docks play the audio over bluetooth since it'll help alleviate any grounding issues/hiss that may occur. One of the reasons they cost so much.

Jewremy said:
Definitely going to try this. Where'd you get the pogo pins?
Also, the third pin ::should:: be shorted to ground to trigger car dock, if that's the purpose of it.
Keep in mind that the OEM GSM dock plays music through those 3 pins somehow, though it makes no sense to me whatsoever. Not enough pins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Shorting to the ground is definitely not how the dock pin worked for the nexus one. Audio is also definitely not over the pin, its by Bluetooth. I've seen the code somewhere that insinuates the dock identifies whether it is a car or desk dock and its Bluetooth MAC. Shorting to ground isn't going to do anything.

Jewremy said:
Definitely going to try this. Where'd you get the pogo pins?
Also, the third pin ::should:: be shorted to ground to trigger car dock, if that's the purpose of it.
Keep in mind that the OEM GSM dock plays music through those 3 pins somehow, though it makes no sense to me whatsoever. Not enough pins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pogo pins were left over from some other project. Take a look at digikey or someplace like it. Might have to search for "spring contacts" or "pogo pins/contacts".. different vendors seem to use different terminology.

Hmm i don't understand the north to south measurement couldn't you extend the marks around the tape to get the height and the all you need is the distance from the top... not sure if that makes sense

The NFC tag can be hidden behind the glossy cover for the mount attachment. It's only held on by two all adhesive strips that run along the long edges of it.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium

mcso619 said:
The NFC tag can be hidden behind the glossy cover for the mount attachment. It's only held on by two all adhesive strips that run along the long edges of it.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea, I sort of like it exposed right now but I think I'll eventually do that.

veli69 said:
Hmm i don't understand the north to south measurement couldn't you extend the marks around the tape to get the height and the all you need is the distance from the top... not sure if that makes sense
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately I'm not sure I understand what you're describing. I'd like to know because I'm certain there are some clever and better ways then my own.

If you extend the holes with a pencil to top side of the phone on the tape when you put it in the doc you know their location, then all you need is your measurement from the top and you are all set.. I dont have a laser like yours though

Great work! Which dock did you use for this?

veli69 said:
View attachment 899531
If you extend the holes with a pencil to top side of the phone on the tape when you put it in the doc you know their location, then all you need is your measurement from the top and you are all set.. I dont have a laser like yours though
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I did that. Guess I didn't explain it better.

nmprodan said:
Great work! Which dock did you use for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Verizon galaxy nexus dock.

http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/0930-0-15-20-75-14-11-0/ED90344-ND/1873757
Would a pin like that work?

mca312 said:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/0930-0-15-20-75-14-11-0/ED90344-ND/1873757
Would a pin like that work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yea, that looks good. Actually looks shorter than the ones I used so I think it might be even better than the ones I used. Just did some searching on that site and found some that look similar to the ones I used http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/829-22-003-20-001101/ED90504-ND/2416224. Looks like they come in a connector already but they're easy to remove from those kinds of connectors by just pushing the pins out. I like the style you found though. Ideally you don't want the lead part sticking out too far from the dock for a clean look so a pin that's just a hair bigger than the thickness of the side-wall of the dock is best. I say go with one of the style you posted over the ones that look similar to what I used.

Mil-Max (the mfg in the digikey ad) will send out a few samples. I got 20 to try and make my version of this.

What device is making the laser lines?

Would these work so you could have connectivity to all 3 pogo pins? I'd like to be able to play audio as well as charge the phone.
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/811-22-003-30-000101/ED8110-03-ND/682271

chuckdz3 said:
Would these work so you could have connectivity to all 3 pogo pins? I'd like to be able to play audio as well as charge the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I *think* that might work. I grabbed a set of (older analog) calipers to measure the pogopins on my LTE GNex and found some estimates. It looks to me that the pogopins are spaced ~.112" apart (from center to center) and are ~.042" in diameter. The pins you found on digikey list the spacing between each pin to be ~.100" apart (from center to center) and ~.042" in diameter.
With those measurements in mind, there would be some slight overlap of the outer two pins onto the plastic casing but the pins would likely still strike the connector on the phone.
Keep in mind though that a number of users have noted that the center pin is not used for audio. I have no personal knowledge of this but I am passing the info along. Apparently audio is passed via bluetooth to a receiver in the mount which converts it to a line level output that is seen on the mount itself.
(Also, I guess I cannot include the hyperlink you had because I am too new to xda)
Update: I stand corrected, as noted later in this thread the spacing is .118" for the GNex pogopins. Apologies for the misinformation.

The GN pogo pin spacing is 3mm (.118"). The All the Digi-Key pins mounted in strips seem to be .1" spacing which I think will be marginal, or at least make the position of the pins really critical.

Anykind of docking station available?

Hey guys, has someone a fitting dock for the Captivate Glide?
AFAIK there is no official one, but maybe the dock of another, more famous, Samsung phone does fit the Glide also.
Greetings Alex22

Unfortunately, I think we are in lack of luck with the µUSB port on the top. This would constrain to put the phone horizontally on a dock with the docking on one edge.
This must explain the lack of docking station on eBay unlike the batteries' charging stations.
One alternative may be to reproduce this SGS mod : http://www.qianqin.de/2011/09/18/samsung-galaxy-s-wireless-inductive-charging-mod
But I don't know if it is possible with our Captivate Glide.

Here is 1 from Philips http://www.techradar.com/reviews/au...-systems/philips-fidelio-as851-1042940/review unfortunately our phone would be connected upside down. I wonder if there is an app that lets it work upside down?

dudejb said:
Here is 1 from Philips http://www.techradar.com/reviews/au...-systems/philips-fidelio-as851-1042940/review unfortunately our phone would be connected upside down. I wonder if there is an app that lets it work upside down?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Back when I used CM for the HTC Dream, I always had the option to enable the screen to rotate 360°.
So I guess it's a ROM thing, but definitely makeable.
But anyways, that's a pretty hefty docking station, and with nearly 200 pounds it's nowhere near my budget.
Lets just hope there'll be more Android Dockingstations to come.
@EMegamanu: Thanks for the link, pretty interesting that you can mod a phone like that. But I'm too afraid and too inexperienced with solderings to mod my phone like that

EMegamanu said:
Unfortunately, I think we are in lack of luck with the µUSB port on the top. This would constrain to put the phone horizontally on a dock with the docking on one edge.
This must explain the lack of docking station on eBay unlike the batteries' charging stations.
One alternative may be to reproduce this SGS mod : http://www.qianqin.de/2011/09/18/samsung-galaxy-s-wireless-inductive-charging-mod
But I don't know if it is possible with our Captivate Glide.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that is impressive. I wish I didn't care about my warranty. Lol

This looks cool the Dock Boss allows you to plug your android phone into any Ipod dock:
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-19736_7-20110799-251/dockboss-plug-android-phones-into-iphone-docks/
OK I doubt it allows you to control the Next track and play/pause but it should charge and route the Music to the device. It plugs to your phones audio connector and the Micro USB to charge.
Here is another dock that looks interesting uses a cable to plug to an android phone so it does not matter where the connectors are located. It also has a nice little Remote:
http://www.thinkgeek.com/electronics/home-entertainment/ec56/
JB

dudejb said:
This looks cool the Dock Boss allows you to plug your android phone into any Ipod dock:
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-19736_7-20110799-251/dockboss-plug-android-phones-into-iphone-docks/
OK I doubt it allows you to control the Next track and play/pause but it should charge and route the Music to the device. It plugs to your phones audio connector and the Micro USB to charge.
Here is another dock that looks interesting uses a cable to plug to an android phone so it does not matter where the connectors are located. It also has a nice little Remote:
http://www.thinkgeek.com/electronics/home-entertainment/ec56/
JB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like the docking station from thinkgeek. The Price is okay, the design as well, the only thing that I would nitpick about is that you can't just put the phone into the dock, but have to connect both headphone and charging cable to hte phone.
Otherwise than that it's worth the weight for me.

You know, it's a shame that our phones seem to have a cult following almost. Many people don't seem to know about it either. Samsung did great, especially since keyboard phones are going the way of the dodo, and I use a keyboard for gaming and texting anyway.
My only complaint is that there's no hardware camera button, but that's not a deal breaker in the least.

Really missing my Milestone dock.....its the only downside to this phone I can find.
I hate fishing for charging leads

MnemonicSyntax said:
You know, it's a shame that our phones seem to have a cult following almost. Many people don't seem to know about it either. Samsung did great, especially since keyboard phones are going the way of the dodo, and I use a keyboard for gaming and texting anyway.
My only complaint is that there's no hardware camera button, but that's not a deal breaker in the least.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The keyboard and the availability on my carrier made the decision for me. I do a lot of emailing from my phone, and the keyboard is just faster and more precise than even Swype style input options for me.
I did at first miss the hardware camera button from my old WinMo LG eXpo, it was very nifty, but it's not even an issue for me anymore. Is that a common thing among Android phones?

the galaxy s vibrant comes with a charging dock that uses the same corner usb connection. Unsure on the thickness of the phone in comparison to the vibrant though.
Sent from my XT862 using xda app-developers app

Well, I bought one to try out. Wasn't much, only $10 from eBay with the packaging or $13 new. Oh, I'm using a stock AT&T Captivate Glide on the latest update.
Physically, it's fine. Smaller than it looks, actually, covering about 9/10 of the length & 4/5 of the height. The depth is a bit more fudged, covering only the lower half of the slider, leaving the screen half hanging. The main issue is that although the plug is 95% on target, the 5% means you'd have to add a spacer to raise the rest of the phone up a bit. But it definitely attaches without trouble. Nice & compact.
EDIT: Driver: the charging works, though considering it didn't a few hours ago, I'm not sure what changed. Ah, the connector is a tad longer than what fits, so perhaps one must jiggle the phone a bit to get it to work? Though I tried that earlier, too....
Software/driver side is a flop. The Samsung Desk Home application from the marketplace (the generic one) doesn't work. So yeah, no automatic launching or sound out of the dock's line out. It's odd, since the settings has a dock setting in the settings, so something should work. I just wasn't able to find out what. I suppose the dock might have an identifier & the phone isn't coded in?

Yo_L2 said:
Well, I bought one to try out. Wasn't much, only $10 from eBay with the packaging or $13 new. Oh, I'm using a stock AT&T Captivate Glide on the latest update.
Physically, it's fine. Smaller than it looks, actually, covering about 9/10 of the length & 4/5 of the height. The depth is a bit more fudged, covering only the lower half of the slider, leaving the screen half hanging. The main issue is that although the plug is 95% on target, the 5% means you'd have to add a spacer to raise the rest of the phone up a bit. But it definitely attaches without trouble. Nice & compact.
EDIT: Driver: the charging works, though considering it didn't a few hours ago, I'm not sure what changed. Ah, the connector is a tad longer than what fits, so perhaps one must jiggle the phone a bit to get it to work? Though I tried that earlier, too....
Software/driver side is a flop. The Samsung Desk Home application from the marketplace (the generic one) doesn't work. So yeah, no automatic launching or sound out of the dock's line out. It's odd, since the settings has a dock setting in the settings, so something should work. I just wasn't able to find out what. I suppose the dock might have an identifier & the phone isn't coded in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
which docking station did you get? that is 1 thing I don't understand with samsung, why do they make the micro usb connector on the top of the phone? It should be on the bottom, this would be simpler for docking stations to connect and less cumbersome having a wire to conect all the way to the top of the phone.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I927R using xda app-developers app

My mistake, I forgot it's difficult to locate. Here's the Galaxy S used version <ebay.com/itm/OEM-Samsung-Galaxy-S-i9000-Multimedia-Dock-Home-Charger-/150629639833> & new version <ebay.com/itm/N-OEM-Samsung-Galaxy-S-4G-Multimedia-Dock-Home-Charger-/160616869990>. If you go through the store, there's the Vibrant & Galaxy S versions, but I'm not sure there are any differences.
Being a horizontal dock, your issue is not applicable, though it's certainly understandable.
Oh right, the clock application already has a dock function, but it doesn't activate upon docking & I couldn't get it to reroute the audio. It does prevent the screen from turning off, so I guess it's not too bad.

Hi would this work with the glue as a basic dock? not sure if the plug is in the right place for this mobile,
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-Gal...UTF8&colid=2AOM2U1G0O9ZJ&coliid=I9O547D7LLW3P
if not aren't there any Samsung accessories that can be adapted for a dock to charge or hdmi out here's wishing lol.
Atb

That is the amazon location of the dock I reviewed. Everything I've mentioned should apply.
I guess glue would work? As long as it's completely dry, naturally. I used three thin nails in three rows, taped down. Not the prettiest, but at least it matches the blue led.
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Hi Thanks for that, where's the link to your review and why were the nails used just to stop it dropping forward of the front of the dock, were there any other mods needed to make it work.
Thanks
Paul

The review is spread over two posts, two & four posts above my prior post with pictures.
I used nails as a spacer as the micro-USB port is a tad bit high. Everything else worked well, though the phone electrical connection to the dock may be finicky at times.

I currently use an ihome desk lamp. The glide sits rather well in the ipod dock, but I have to supply my own power. I was eyeing this the other day too http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/ec56/

found it! SGH-i927 HTPC solution
here's what i think we've all been looking for:
this should be all you need to use your Captivate Glide as HTPC (or just use the dock on your night-table/desk, whatever)
iBolt™ MHL Streamer Dock - Black
http://www.fommy.com/view-full-page.php?divid=Samsung&model=Samsung+Captivate+Glide+SGH-I927&cat=Cradles&skuno=94753
the only actual dock i've found that's listed as compatible with i927, and it comes with cables! i am SO getting that one of these days...
(actually, the compatibility list is quite large, i'm guessing just about any device with MHL will work with this dock)
i happened to find this site about an hour into googling for a glide dock... they have the widest range of sgh-i927 stuff i've found:
http://www.fommy.com/samsung-captivate-glide-sgh-i927.htm
and that's the only place i've found that sells the iBolt dock...
couple that dock with a Bluetooth kbd/mouse combo; something like this:
CE Compass Bluetooth HID Wireless Keyboard Mouse
*edit*
THIS little thing is AWESOME:
http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-touch-keyboard-k400
I picked one up on sale at Office Depot. Works GREAT and even has a home button.
After using this on windows pc's, android tablets and android phone (USB OTG), I HIGHLY reccommend it to anyone looking for a keyboard with integrated touchpad.
two finger scrolling in windows and android works great.
in case you don't have an hdmi monitor, just an HD hdmi to dvi adapter for ~$5
(if you have to go DVI, chances are you'll need an audio cable to connect to your audio device. for example, my tv is older and doesnt do audio over DVI, but the DVI input has RCA audio inputs right beside it; so i would use a 3.5mm to RCA cable.
Or you may want to run from phone headphone jack to audio line in on your home theatre audio receiver.
Chances are if you need seperate audio cable, either 3.5mm to RCA or 3.5mm double-ended cable would be what you need.)
so that's about $100 to use your phone as a desktop computer or HTPC as well.
I can't wait to try this on my 60" DLP tv....

Pumpkin Head unit dead by wiring fault. Any chances to recover it?

Hi,
i have a pumpkin HU (Model: RK3066, Dual Core, 800x600, KLD2 MCU) for my 2007 Audi A4
It now ran great with Malaysk root etc.
But yesterday i installed a rear view cam. After hours of routing the cable from back of my car to the front, i couldn´t wait to plug it in and try it.
But i only had the chinch input available. There was no available cable for the cam to switch on. So i had no idea where to connect the cable of rear parking lights.
On the wiring label on the head unit it says, there should be an orange cable for that.
But the only orange cable i found, already was plugged into the CAN-Bus adapter box.
So i thought, maybe it not needed to connect this cable, maybe the radio get the "switch on cam" signal from CAN bus.
But it didn´t.
It didn´t work at all (and yes, i enabled the rear-view cam in the settings.. that wasn´t the problem)
So i tried to connect my parking light cable to the pink "brake" cable, which also didn´t work.
And then i tried it with the only one left available cable. It was a white one, and since then... My head unit is dead...
Screen keeps beeing black.
No chance to turn it on again. holding Reset and Power buttons does not help either.
I know, this was very stupid! But i was so frustrated after all those hours disassembling the whole car, i just wanted to get it to work finally.
So i tried things without thinking...
(afterwards i found out, the solution would have been, to cut the orange/black cable that leads to the CAN-bus adapter and connect my parking light cable there. But now its too late)
Anyhow...
Does anyone have an idea what could be blown by this action? isn´t there any internal protection against short circuits?
Is it completely dead, or is there a simple way to bring it back to live?
thats the current status:
- I have checked all my car circuit breakers - all are OK
- if i connect the power harnees to the head unit, there is a short "beep"
- if i hold the power botton for a few seconds, there are three short "beep" "beep" "beep"
- the dvd-drive does work. So it ejects CDs without problems.
- also i can hear the fan of the head unit, once ignition is on.
but the screen keeps beeing black.
Any ideas, how i could get it to work again?
Or do i need to get a new one?
many thanks!

You should have powered your rear view camera from your backup tail lights and be done with it, but too late for that.
Now two critical pieces of information are missing from your post:
1. What is the label of the unit's white cable that you connected and caused it to stop working? (All the cables coming out of the unit are labeled.)
2. What did you connect the white cable to? (+12V, ground or what?)

I should have used my brain, then nothing would have gone wrong
The cable i tried to connect is the +12V from the tail lights.
This needs to be connected with the head unit to enable the rear-view screen.
The white cable isn´t labeled, nor its shown on the wiring diagram label that is attached on my unit.
Therefore i just gave it a try, as there was no other free cable available. (i can punsch myself now, for that stupid try)
I will take a photo of this white cable and the associated pin on the connector.
Maybe someone has an idea what this is usually used for, and what could be damaged now.

Do you have similar picture? (This is the one for my unit). The sticker on top of the unit has a label for every single pin on every single port that comes out of the unit. Maybe you should look there. You can see my sticker on the very top of the picture below.
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Hi,
as i am a new user, i am not allowed to post photos.
Can i send it to you via message and you post it?
would be great

Sure, but you also need to specify the exact model. It is cut from the first picture and without that it will not be possible to find a pin-out diagram of the main port. All I can see is KD-C1*****. What are the letters after that?

C-V-T said:
Sure, but you also need to specify the exact model. It is cut from the first picture and without that it will not be possible to find a pin-out diagram of the main port. All I can see is KD-C1*****. What are the letters after that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its a KD-C1214
(Model: RK3066, Dual Core, 800x600, KLD2 MCU)
my thinking is, i might burned some internal module or chip, that switches on the display.
As said, the fan is working, also i get "beeps" if i push the reset button.
But no matter, what i try, the display keeps being black.

Ok, this exact thing happens (booting with black screen) when the CAN bus box is not connected. So there is a chance that you have only burned your box. One thing you can try is to see if this white wire is directly connected through the unit to any of the wires of the CAN bus box. Just get a multi-meter, disconnect the CAN bus box and check for a direct connection between the white wire and any of the wires going into it (with the cable plugged in to the unit of course).
Otherwise I cannot tell what this white wire is - its not on any of the diagrams I could find. Maybe its worth a shot to ask Pumpkin.
This is your unit as far as I could tell: http://www.autopumpkin.com/pumpkin-best-7-pure-android-4-4-kitkat-plug-and-play-car-stereo-support-gps-can-bus-3g-wifi-obd2-for-audi-a4-2003-2008.html
Here are your pictures:
this one shows the wiring-label on my head unit:
http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31416762/DSC_4852_1.jpg.html
This one shows my cable coming from the tail-lights (+12V) http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31416770/DSC_4855.jpg.html
Here you can see all available free cable leads:
http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31416783/DSC_4858.jpg.html
And here, the pin location of those free leads:
http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31416787/DSC_4859.jpg.html

Ok, i did check those wires:
The white one does not "beep" with any cable on the (disconnected) can connector
But it does "beep" with four cables there, if the Can adapter box is connected:
With black
With green
With orange
With blue (but here only very short like every 3-5. Seconds)

Also:
There is +0,5V on this white cable, no matter if ignition is on or off, if CAN Box is disconnected.
And there is +2,2V on it, if Can box is connected + ignition is on

If it is not connected directly to any of the cables doing into the CAN bus box, it's unlikely that you have damaged the CAN bus box.
Ask the manufacturer to tell you what is the wire for.
If you cannot get it from them maybe it's a good idea to open it and see exactly where the pin of this wire leads to. The unit is built with "over the counter" standard IC chips and components.

I don't know, if this makes any sense... But this white cable leads to the IR sensor on the Front dash board...
How could this break my head unit???!?
Ok, thats too much for my brain today..

i now have attached photos of the pin of the IR sensor, where that white cable leads to.
its the lower pin of the IR-Sensor.
The middle pin of the IR-Sensor is ground.
And the upper pin is.... ?! i have no idea.
But anyhow...
Could a blown IR-Sensor prevent my head unit from booting?

Yes, this makes a lot of sense. I guess they provided the white wire so you can attach an external IR sensor.
The IR sensor itself is just a photo-cell that produces a small voltage when you shine light on it. Putting +12V across if would definitely have burned it. But it is also connected to an IC chip that interprets its signal and talks to the main CPU. My guess is the CPU halts while booting as soon as it fails to talk to it. This chip would have burned it as well, so you have to find it too. It would be connected to the IR sensor either directly or through a resistor. (Most likely its through a resistor in order to limit the current and protect the chip.) This connection (the one the white wire is connected to) would not terminate anywhere else, except in this chip. Look for a fairly small chip, not more than 20 pins, maybe fewer.
Once you find it, take a picture so the writing on it is visible. It would not be hard to get a replacement, since they are standard and are present in every device that has a remote control. If you are having trouble finding it, just open your remote and then look for a chip with the same manufacturer as the chips in the remote to narrow the search.
There is a chance you only burned the IR sensor if the current limiting resistor was high enough to handle 12 volts, but I doubt it. You can unsolder the IR sensor and try to boot without it. Also once unsoldered you can test it by shining a flashlight on it. It would produce a voltage between the pin that was connected to ground and the pin that was connected to the white wire. But again I don't see how the chip that interprets its signals would have survived a +12V on its input pin. The voltage the IR sensor produces is around 1V at best.
Also look for writings on the IR sensor. Without those I have no idea how to find a replacement. Both the IR sensor and its chip would cost cents to replace, the challenge is identifying them.
If you are having trouble finding it with a multimeter, you can always lookup the various chips on Google. For example from one of your pictures I can see that one of the chips is WM8731. A quick Google search tells me that this is your audio chip + CODEC provider: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/76/WM8731_v4.9-532414.pdf

great thanks for the help and patience so far.
here are my findings:
The IR-photodiode has some letters on it:
"CHOE" or "CHQE"
here is a picture of IR-photodiode Pins:
and through some resistors, it leads to 3 pins of this IC:
i tried to google this chip, but only got to a chinese homepage with malware warnings...

oh wait, sorry.
that was too quick....
This other end of the R21 resistor leads to like everywhere. Maybe this is some kind of common 5V supply or something??!
So the burned component could also be like everywhere else, isn´t it?!
I guess i need to find the source of this common supply.
But this could also be the main MTC. This is also somehow connected. I have highlighted this with the blue lines in the attached photo.... those blue lines lead to some pins the RK3066 MTC
My hopes are getting smaller and smaller, to be able to get it to work again...

Pedaaa said:
oh wait, sorry.
that was too quick....
This other end of the R21 resistor leads to like everywhere. Maybe this is some kind of common 5V supply or something??!
So the burned component could also be like everywhere else, isn´t it?!
I guess i need to find the source of this common supply.
But this could also be the main MTC. This is also somehow connected. I have highlighted this with the blue lines in the attached photo.... those blue lines lead to some pins the RK3066 MTC
My hopes are getting smaller and smaller, to be able to get it to work again...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a different model (KD-CO235) -- no can bus. It has a brown wire for steering wheel key sensing in place of your white wire, so it is obviously quite different. However the main board looks nearly identical and includes the same R21. My main board is marked KD-HCT-MB 2015/07/18 Rev-3.1 1535 and also uses KLD2 firmware. Here's what I have:
1) R21 is 100 ohms
2) One side of R21 connects only to one pin on the CN3 ribbon connector that goes to my 8133 CPU.
3) The other side of R21 connects to V3.3, the Vcc power source for the MCU (that's the square chip marked with "IAP").
So I think you can bet that your "common supply" is the 3.3 volts for MCU power. If your white wire really does connect to the right side of R21 as you said, then you probably fed 12 volts (at least) onto your V3.3 supply through a 100 ohm resistor. Current would have been on the order of 90mA until something gave up.
It's possible that the 3.3v regulator (on my board that is U4, above and to the right of the MCU) got fried. You might check to see whether or not you still have 3.3 volts on the left side of R21. But chances are very good that you will have to replace that main board.

Pedaaa said:
oh wait, sorry.
that was too quick....
This other end of the R21 resistor leads to like everywhere. Maybe this is some kind of common 5V supply or something??!
So the burned component could also be like everywhere else, isn´t it?!
I guess i need to find the source of this common supply.
But this could also be the main MTC. This is also somehow connected. I have highlighted this with the blue lines in the attached photo.... those blue lines lead to some pins the RK3066 MTC
My hopes are getting smaller and smaller, to be able to get it to work again...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, a couple of notes:
1. Make sure the circuit checker (beeper) on your multi-meter is not fooling you by beeping even when there is no direct connection. To be sure once it beeps, always turn in to Ohmmeter and measure the resistance, It should be no more than a 1 ohm for a direct connection.
2. Remove the IR sensor and try to boot without it.
3. Replace your IR sensor with this one (it's the most generic one I could find and it will operate both on a 3V and a 5V rail): https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10266
I could not find anything on this 5L2K7S2 or 5L2K1S2 chip. Have you tried asking Pumpkin for the schematics?
P.S. The IR sensor has 3 pins:
1 . Output (connected to the white cable)
2. Ground
3. +3V (or +5V) power.
Don't bother tracing pins 2 and 3. They are ground and power and will go to 1001 places. Only find out where pin 1 goes (the one attached to the white cable). From your pictures I can tell that you have not found where it goes. It is impossible for it to go to the IR sensor and nowhere else!

Hello guys,
thanks for that great help, but i am now giving up on it, and will just order a new one.
(Or to be honest, my girlfriend would kill me, if i would continue traceing pins all night long So i have no other chance than giving up )

I understand completely!
If you are giving up, did you try just cutting off the IR sensor?

The story of an Android Tablet Stereo install and all of its fails(Updated)

Long time XDA user, never contributed, Figured as I am in the process of doing a tablet dash install I'd document the attempt on here in hopes it helps someone with similar ambitions.
I like to waffle and wall of texts, sorry about that, Skip to pictures if you don't like Wall o Texts, feel free to ask for any details I missed, point out any spelling/grammar mistakes as its 1:30 am while I'm typing this.
Warning, anything in this post that you attempt at home is your responsibility if anything goes wrong, Do not attempt, Fire hazard
The Story(Skip this part down to the Second picture if just interested in the build):
A little while ago my better half decided she needed a new car as the old Subaru B4 was rusting, and used more gas than a 4L V6 Holden Commodore, and settled on a Suzuki Swift, some quick searching later and I had found the one I thought was the best for the cash we had at the time
meet the Chocolate Chip(not my name for it...lol):
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When we got it, we found it had no badges, a different grill from the other swifts of its age, and features only found on 2010 and later models(its a 2007 model).
Turns out it might be a Suzuki Swift "Style" but it also doesn't have the grill of a Style.
On the way home we found not only was it not slow as we thought it would be, being a small engined car, it was way faster than the old 2L subaru, turns out, its a 1.2L K12B VVT dual injector engine with a CVT transmission, long story short, it goes when you hit the go pedal, and daaaamn does it stop when you hit the stop pedal.
after finding many remains of previously installed gadgets, we figured it had been a tech nerds car much like myself, they sold it cheap...we wondered why
next morning it wouldn't start.
after a fair amount of feeling ripped off, and a bout of words not suitable for this forum, I did some investigating, found out the mini relays for the Fuel injection and fuel pump were coming on only intermittently, a quick trip to the local parts store and away she went.
that just left one problem..fixing that problem entails below.
First off, the Plan:
To install something(ANYTHING) to replace this monstrosity:
My first thought was Android tablet, as I had seen a tablet install in a friends subaru and had liked the effect.
then I thought, what about installing a radio, as I had an RTL SDR dongle installed in a raspberry pi at home for a few years already, I spend a good few days working out if I could make a Raspberry Pi Dash
I discovered I could, but it would cost an arm a leg and the left family jewel, even tho I already had an amp, RaspPi, Various cables and an RTLSDR dongle.
Mainly because I wanted something that I could add ALL THE THINGS! Music, radio, GPS, voice control, steering wheel controls etc.
After this disapointing result I went back to researching the tablet install, Found infact a Samsung tab 3 lite 7" tablet would be a perfect fit into a 2DIN Standard slot, then discovered the RTLSDR world had moved along a fair bit since I got mine, and that android had an app and drivers for it .
So after a quick squiz over to ebay for a swift 2Din Facia for $16NZDish with a couple weeks shipping time the hunt was on for a tablet.
Hours and hours of hunting around later I had settled on a Samsung Galaxy Tab 3 Lite after researching the nexus and some no name brand android tablets and finding them to expensive, or to unreliable.
It was best in reliablility, price($100NZD or less), features, ability to use one of those OTG cables with a resistor between pin 4 and 5 to get charging and OTG at the same time and the ability to fit perfectly INSIDE a 2DIN socket and after some research(using my phone) powerful enough to run SDR touch for FM/AM/other Radio.
it was perfect and we were all set to buy it.
and thats when I ran into the first roadblock
The Better half
She owns and loves a Samsung Galaxy Tab S 10.5 16gb WIFI edition (SM-T800), its been a fantastic tablet, Unlocked bootloader, no non-removable bloatware, and for some reason its specs beat the current Tab E and Tab A and Tab S2 by a mile in most places and at worst is even, and she decided she liked it so much when she was helping me search our local equiv of ebay(trademe) she spotted one for really really cheap($140NZD), and decided it was the one to have, after pointing out it will have to be outside the 2DIN socket and the cables would show and it would look like a tablet glued to a dashboard, and her saying "I don't care about that, BIG SCREEN!" I decided fair enough and we bid on it and won.
Suddenly the plan had to change.
A few days later it arrived...
Second Roadblock:
And the plan had to change again.
What was advertised was a Samsung Galaxy Tab S 16GB - WIFI, what we got was a Samsung Galaxy Tab S 16gb Wifi + LTE SM-T807A AT&T Carrier locked, bootloader locked, bloatware loaded turd.
The two tablets are night and day.
Needless to say I was not happy, and spent many hours trying to find a way to root it, no one has bothered working on it since 5.0, there is no root for 6.0.1
After some choice words to the seller, and him offering a partial refund, and me accepting it, I decided to try push on regardless.
Much to my surprise Most of the software I wanted to use required no root, all was looking good
Then I tried an Charging OTG Cable, no good.
Did a little research on XDA (THANKS GUYS I LOVE YOUR WORK), and found the USB on samsung devices could be put into the charging OTG mode via various resistors for various devices, after hours of trying different resistors, a potentiometer and several destroyed OTG cables later, I discovered this AT&T turd didn't support any of the modes required, it also wouldn't charge on anything that didn't have the data lines shorted for fast charge.
(This is where Root and a custom rom would have been handy, many custom roms are set up to control the USB chip via resistors to allow incoming charge during OTG use)
(to those guys who go on about tablets charging having nothing to do with the charger/cable and only to do with how much current it can supply, thats bollox, if the data lines aren't shorted the tablet won't go into fast charge mode, and this tablet only charges in fast charge mode, the phones can charge either slow or fast but they need the data lines shorted to charge in the fast charge mode).
So, we have the 2DIN facia, the Tablet, and some cables to hack up, let the cable making and problem sorting begin!
Step one:
Test the tablet for functioning OTG mode
Thank god it at least had this, I left it plugged in, with an unpowered USB hub, with the radio off and it in sleep all night to see how much current the plugged in hub and inactive radio would use while sleeping.
the results: 93% to 49% in 7 hours, not good.
First problem Identified and Step Two: Radio and unpowered hub use to much from the battery, as I don't want the tablet charging while the car is off as it will drain the battery fairly hard.
First step in solving this problem was to try powering the hub, it worked!, but it also headed up the OTG cable as the battery was still trying to output power.
Solution: from my days messing with a bus pirate on a serial line on a wifi security camera, I remembered I didn't have to connect the V+ line, just GND, TX, RX.
So I slipped a piece of paper between the USB plug and socket where the hub plugged into the OTG cable, over the V+ line, so no power could come from the battery
And lo and behold it worked and was using the hubs power:
I removed the Radio Dongles MCX tiny connector, and soldiered in a standard car antenna socket lead, then covered the Dongle in aluminium tape for RF shielding, I soldered a spring onto the old MCX connector shielding Ground point on PCB, and the Tape starts on the inside above it, for a solid ground for the RF shield you can see in the picture above.
Step Three:
How do we power the hub with the radio on it only when the cars on?
Easy, a quick Suzuki to ISO hardness, a pair of side cutters, a 2.1A USB car charger, and a Smokers socket with leads later, and we have ourselves a power source.
As you can see I have it wired to the Ignition switch(Red on standard stereo harness) and ground, with the other wires split out for speakers later.
you may also see I cut off the Orange and blue wire...the blue wire was a mistake, more on that later.
so, we have the Radio and usb hub working and power to them...but now theres no USB port to charge the tablet...how dowe solve this problem....
Step Four:
CHARGING
After the many hours and so much concentration on the research of various paths I took to attempt to find a way to charge the tablet (OTG+Charge, Root to edit resistors value file, unlocking bootloaders, Jtag, Custom roms, flashing roms from other tabs like the SM-T805/T807V/T807T) I almost threw up.
Then I found a video while on one of these paths to a guy fixing a Tab S with a low battery state, fixing it by using a TP4056 1A single cell li-ion microusb charge circuit to directly charge the cells in the Tab S.
This gave me the idea, while not the best, it would work.
Charge the batteries directly! I got onto trademe and ordered me up one of the modern versions of this lil TP4056 circuit and got to work doing the most firehazardy thing I've ever done:
Do not try this at home.
It has two batteries, both Li-Ion 3.8v Batteries which appear to be wired in parallel strangely, in the center of the battery pack is a small PCB with 4 large contacts on it labeled B1+ B1- B2+ B2-, and using a multimeter they seem to be parallel, so I got out my trusty soldering Iron(which is a 25w woefully sad thing) and soldered a flat 28 AWG IDE cable to the B2 terminals, (3 wires per terminal for current handling), as It needed to be a really flat cable to fit under the back plate.
The picture above shows a cable coming from a removed Book cover style case Clamp which turns out only has one screw holding it in, then its a free hole to have a cable coming out of, this cable has a counterpart cable that is wired into the TP4056 protection charge PCB, which is in turn plugged into the USB car charger you will see in pictures later.
as the charge protection circuit exists there is little risk, right up untill the battery dies from age or a flaw, then its extremely dangerous as it has no Temp sensor.
My safety feature is it only charges while the car is running, so if it ever puffs up and/or smokes, I've kept everything with plugs and modular so it can be removed in a hurry and thrown out a window.
In the picture above you can see the Facia(plastic surround), with a usb Extension lead Glued into it(bottom mid), a usb hub(Silver/blue on the right), the RTL dongle(wearing the tinfoil hat top mid), the accessory socket and usb car charger(Orange and black thing), and USB to USB power plug plugged in(Usb plug in the Orange and black thing), and OTG cable(with paper inside plug to the big end, sticking out in front) .
Additionally, to keep everything as tidy as possible, the shell of a 2Din Radio you can see, is actually a 2Din Stock Subaru radio long ago removed and replaced, now gutted(and long forgotten CD and Mini disc Removed) and the empty shell used to cable tie everything down as it is filled with holes.
Car harness bottom left/mid, Car antenna plug bottom right.
Meow Meow motors Chief safety inspector, inspecting the car before Installation.
The final product..wait Problem with some software running.
So with some automotive double sided 1mm thick black foam tape I attached it...and all was well...
then it fell off....damnit
So after some debate, and pointing out it was her fault we have the AT&T turdblet the better half sacrificed her cat chewed worn out old case, to the stereo gods, so that the Android stereo/nav system could live
two self tappers from an old dryer later, and the tablet was secured and the job was done!
(Photo Incoming
Or so I thought, While installing, I got the amp in, the wiring in(I used the 5 Core trailer wire for the speaker wires and the REM amp wire), got the old radio out, pluged everything in, and it worked a treat, better sound quality than the stock radio and I didn't even have to use a Ground loop Isolator on it!
then I hit the radio button...and it was worse than when I had no antenna plugged in. I was pissed and couldnt work it out, a few hours later I found out Suzukis have an electrically amplified antenna, once I figured out which wire was for running the antenna amplifier(turns out its the same one that powers Electrical automatic pop-up amps in most radios(White with green stripe for me) and blue wire on the ISO standard harness(Which I had cut off) it worked like a treat, including listening in on AM, FM, and the local cop radio, which is apparently dealing with alot of drunks today lol.
Will update with some pictures of Amp wiring, and final install
If anyone knows a better voice recognition software than "OK Google" when you have no internet connection please let me know, or how to carrier unlock an AT&Turd tab, I'd be grateful, Cheers
Warning, anything in this post that you attempt at home is your responsibility if anything goes wrong, Do not attempt, Fire hazard
More to come (Gathering images and sorting out bits and pieces)

Great work.......?

Holy cow I had no idea I wanted to do this with my tab s. I wanted to do the same with a double din sized tab, but this is amazing.

And where is the final result??

Nice story....