Hello everyone. Long time original iPhone user. I just recently switched to the Lumia 900.
My question is about in car audio functionality. Of course, with an iPhone it's as easy as plugging it into your car's USB port to get high quality line-out audio. I assumed the Nokia would give me the same ability, but it does not. I plugged the Lumia 900 into three different car's USB ports (BMW, Chevy, and Ford), and none of them recognized my phone as a device that is plugged in.
I know that you can use bluetooth streaming audio, and that works, however bluetooth audio quality is very low in comparison to a line-out connection.
So, does anyone know if this limitation comes from the Lumia's hardware or Windows Phone 7 software?
The same thing would happen if you managed to connect (assuming someone made a cable) a Lumia 900 to an iPhone dock.
The car's sound deck was specifically made to support iPods/iPhones. They usually also support flash drives, but I doubt they support any other devices.
Its not Microsoft's nor Nokia's limitation, its the cars.
Sound decks usually have a aux-in that can take a mini-jack, does your car have one?
JMackey said:
The same thing would happen if you managed to connect (assuming someone made a cable) a Lumia 900 to an iPhone dock.
The car's sound deck was specifically made to support iPods/iPhones. They usually also support flash drives, but I doubt they support any other devices.
Its not Microsoft's nor Nokia's limitation, its the cars.
Sound decks usually have a aux-in that can take a mini-jack, does your car have one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm' not so sure that the car's sound deck was specifically made for Apple hardware. I know for a fact that at least one Droid phone works when usb connected.
My documentation (DICE) actually lists Zune devices as supported, but when I plug this Windows phone in I get nothing.
mister2d said:
I'm' not so sure that the car's sound deck was specifically made for Apple hardware. I know for a fact that at least one Droid phone works when usb connected.
My documentation (DICE) actually lists Zune devices as supported, but when I plug this Windows phone in I get nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, maybe not specifically made, but they did need to go to apple to get certification for it. Apple also offers a hardware audio api for the dock connector, hence why so many devices are built for it.
I've never had an android phone so this is just a guess, but when you connect one to a computer, does it show up as a storage device? If so, that's probably how the car is playing the music. Its not the android device specifically, just a side affect of how its file system works.
As for the Zune, I cannot think of how that would even work. It doesn't offer itself as a storage device nor is there such a thing as a generic "Audio USB" driver. Maybe its referring to that an aux-in "supports" it?
Bottom line, unless Microsoft & car manufacturers collaborated to create this functionality or Microsoft enables Mass Storage access to a WP7, you are out of luck.
JMackey said:
Well, maybe not specifically made, but they did need to go to apple to get certification for it. Apple also offers a hardware audio api for the dock connector, hence why so many devices are built for it.
I've never had an android phone so this is just a guess, but when you connect one to a computer, does it show up as a storage device? If so, that's probably how the car is playing the music. Its not the android device specifically, just a side affect of how its file system works.
As for the Zune, I cannot think of how that would even work. It doesn't offer itself as a storage device nor is there such a thing as a generic "Audio USB" driver. Maybe its referring to that an aux-in "supports" it?
Bottom line, unless Microsoft & car manufacturers collaborated to create this functionality or Microsoft enables Mass Storage access to a WP7, you are out of luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I get the it with regards to Apple.
My audio car's connection does not have AUX, only USB and input for SIRIUS, but Zune as supported. I don't have any Zune devices to verify though.
You are likely right about the generic USB device. I bet that's how the car's interface connects to other mobile devices. Connecting my Lumia 900 to my laptop does not yield a USB device to copy files to.
I'll see to putting in a question to Nokia and see where that leads me.
A shame this doesn't work out of the box over USB. That's where you'll get the highest quality sound.
WP7 phones does not support any USB mass storage or MTP mode. It can only talk to Zune software. Android phones DO support MTP and mass storage mode through USB. There is zero chance you will ever see WP7 phone work through any USB port that is not Zune on a PC.
foxbat121 said:
WP7 phones does not support any USB mass storage or MTP mode. It can only talk to Zune software. Android phones DO support MTP and mass storage mode through USB. There is zero chance you will ever see WP7 phone work through any USB port that is not Zune on a PC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this. Information on this topic is scarce. I think I may have the wrong phone now.
AUX output with car radio
Hi, Mister2d,
I've always used AUX output with my WM 6.5 Tilt 2 to my 2010 Toyota Prius, with no problems. (using a standard 3.5 mm (1/4 ") double female cable to link phone to AUX jack in the car.)
I've had the N L 900 for about two weeks, and at first the apparent lack of AUX output compatability was fustrating. But the problem is simply solved. It stems from the interaction of the Toyota radio volume setting and also the N L 900 phone volume setting. Basicially, if either is low, then almost no sound comes out of the car speakers. I find that with the N L 900 volume set @ ~15-20, then the car radio volume gives very adequate output, (although the car needs to be set to ~40, as was the case with the HTC Tilt 2). The result is not blasting, suitable for classical, soft rock & tele calls. Volume is easily fine-tuend with the car volume settings, but drops off quickly below 35.
Oh, yeah - Make sure you do not have the phone ringer OFF - This seems to be an intermittent kink in the circuitry . . .
(By the way, my previous rants about lousy sound quality on the Titan I do NOT apply to the N L 900 - Overall sound quality is excellent . . ., although there are other serious problems - See below . . .
Regards,
Artzznyzz
PS,
I need your help re problems with stability of zoom & display occuring in Explorer and MS office / Excel. I'm looking for a better thread to post it in . . .
artzznyzz said:
Hi, Mister2d,
I've always used AUX output with my WM 6.5 Tilt 2 to my 2010 Toyota Prius, with no problems. (using a standard 3.5 mm (1/4 ") double female cable to link phone to AUX jack in the car.)
I've had the N L 900 for about two weeks, and at first the apparent lack of AUX output compatability was fustrating. But the problem is simply solved. It stems from the interaction of the Toyota radio volume setting and also the N L 900 phone volume setting. Basicially, if either is low, then almost no sound comes out of the car speakers. I find that with the N L 900 volume set @ ~15-20, then the car radio volume gives very adequate output, (although the car needs to be set to ~40, as was the case with the HTC Tilt 2). The result is not blasting, suitable for classical, soft rock & tele calls. Volume is easily fine-tuend with the car volume settings, but drops off quickly below 35.
Oh, yeah - Make sure you do not have the phone ringer OFF - This seems to be an intermittent kink in the circuitry . . .
(By the way, my previous rants about lousy sound quality on the Titan I do NOT apply to the N L 900 - Overall sound quality is excellent . . ., although there are other serious problems - See below . . .
Regards,
Artzznyzz
PS,
I need your help re problems with stability of zoom & display occuring in Explorer and MS office / Excel. I'm looking for a better thread to post it in . . .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I'm not looking for aux output for two reasons:
1. Its sound quality is bad in comparison to a true line-out.
2. It would require two connections from the top of my Lumia, one for the headphone jack and one for usb (to charge). Not only is that hideous, but it would create a mess of cables in my car when I was used to just one cable providing power and high quality audio.
mister2d said:
Yeah I'm not looking for aux output for two reasons:
1. Its sound quality is bad in comparison to a true line-out.
2. It would require two connections from the top of my Lumia, one for the headphone jack and one for usb (to charge). Not only is that hideous, but it would create a mess of cables in my car when I was used to just one cable providing power and high quality audio.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Huh.. I never realized that about the dock connector. I didn't realize that line-out isn't the same as headphones out.
Do your vehicles really have the speakers to be able to tell the difference? The BMW maybe, but the others? (I'm not an audiophile in anyway so I am honestly curious)
JMackey said:
Huh.. I never realized that about the dock connector. I didn't realize that line-out isn't the same as headphones out.
Do your vehicles really have the speakers to be able to tell the difference? The BMW maybe, but the others? (I'm not an audiophile in anyway so I am honestly curious)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I can tell the difference. Bass notes (among other things) aren't as good since coming out of a headphone jack it gets double amp'ed (one from the phone and then from your car's amp). The result is not so good, and it's the reason why you have to adjust your volume on the phone first to acceptable levels to avoid distortion.
Bluetooth audio is even worse. It's fine for podcasts and such but for music, not so much.
Related
Hello all ,
Is there a way to get an audio line-out from the Galaxy Nexus, either using an adapter or a docking station? I'm not looking for a solution like the one offered by the Samsung Galaxy S2's car dock (which streams bluetooth audio from the phone to the dock, then the dock turns the bluetooth streaming to analog audio through a 3.5mm port) but rather something like an adapter for the MHL port or from the docking station.
Appreciate all the help!
The obvious solution (at least to me) is to plug into the headphone jack. You could also use either the media dock or MHL adapter in conjunction with an HDMI-to-analog adapter such as the one linked below:
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-RCA-comp...OQPU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1321905031&sr=8-2
vespoid said:
The obvious solution (at least to me) is to plug into the headphone jack. You could also use either the media dock or MHL adapter in conjunction with an HDMI-to-analog adapter such as the one linked below:
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-RCA-comp...OQPU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1321905031&sr=8-2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He's asking for a line out solution because it will bypass the internal headphone amp that is utilized when the 3.5mm port is used. If you're plugging the phone into speakers or a sound system that way you'll get much better sound.
If the mhl -> HDMI cable adapter carries both audio and video, you could use an hdmi breakout adapter to split the digital audio. It depends on the HDMI output capabilities of the phone and the acceptability of digital audio for your needs.
Edit: would no doubt be a cumbersome solution. It all comes down to your usage scenario for the output.
Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk
Thank you vespoid, ardabey.
What OJ in Compton said, I'm looking to bypass the internal headphone amp, not sure if there are any details on the car dock or desk dock, I hope 3rd party manufacturers come up with something, any solutions are welcome.
Ali
Never thought about this, but a contactless dock with HDMI out directly to the AMP = audio bliss. Thanks to the forum for letting me see the obvious
Bumping this thread...has anyone successfully done this? I want line out audio for my car's 3.5mm AUX input - had it with my ipod and it sounded much better than through the headphone jack, as well the convenience of not having to maintain two volumes.
Hoping the official car dock that uses the 3 pin connector and has a 3.5 out would do this, but I'm worried it will just use BT to transmit the audio to the dock like I read the Nexus One dock did.
I wish too that the NG had line level out.
I think it's a limitation of the hardware. I think Apple is the online one that really uses line level out via it's dock connector.
I hope someday Google will use some sort of line level out on their reference hardware or built support directly into a newer OS.
I remember my old Dell DJ had line level out. Soooooo much better.
There is nothing wrong with the 3.5mm output sound quality wise.
Trying to drive headphone-like impedance (lower) with a line out isn't the best idea, but driving higher impedance inputs like your car deck isn't that bad as long as you let the amps do the "work" of boosting the volume and not your phone. While not optimal, the decrease in sound quality shouldn't be very noticeable.
The main advantage of the digital audio though USB (what apple does) IMO is that it eliminates the need to have both the USB plugged in to charge and the 3.5 mm cord for audio. It also allows song data to be shared and device control from the speaker/head unit. Good setups will recognize most android devices as mass USB storage and provide the same functionality, but I'm not sure how the MTS on the GN will affect this.
I would wait and see how the audio quality is from the dock. Even if it is bluetooth, the audio quality may not be that bad.
Lithoss said:
There is nothing wrong with the 3.5mm output sound quality wise.
Trying to drive headphone-like impedance (lower) with a line out isn't the best idea, but driving higher impedance inputs like your car deck isn't that bad as long as you let the amps do the "work" of boosting the volume and not your phone. While not optimal, the decrease in sound quality shouldn't be very noticeable.
The main advantage of the digital audio though USB (what apple does) IMO is that it eliminates the need to have both the USB plugged in to charge and the 3.5 mm cord for audio. It also allows song data to be shared and device control from the speaker/head unit. Good setups will recognize most android devices as mass USB storage and provide the same functionality, but I'm not sure how the MTS on the GN will affect this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is, that if the head unit supports MTP then yes it can read the device like mass-storage, thats fine, but it doesn't allow you to stream media from radio apps, youtube and turn-by-turn directions from gps, this is what we are looking for...
technically it's not sending analog audio output through the USB, its just reading the stored media on the phone.
I have read that samsung phones are able to accomplish sending analog audio through the USB while charging, with the correct resistance values (adapter) or possibly with software pointing the audio in that direction (for example code build into the framework/API)
this is one major thing that Android lacks over iPhone, this problem should be addressed ASAP. I'm hoping CM9 might be able to find a solution for this.
I agree, i hope they fix this soon toi. It would make the development of accessories much easier for all android phones. Seems like a no brainer but I guess Google has other priorities...
A feature request for Android 4.0 to enable USB audio:
http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=24614
Juvenall said:
A feature request for Android 4.0 to enable USB audio:
http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=24614
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just starred this, if the hardware is able to do that I find it completely stupid that they do not allow it.
Smartphones audio amps are not exactly famous for being top-quality so having this possibility would be great.
Thanks. The lack of this feature is ridiculous/mind-boggling/suprising.
Well, if you were waiting for the card dock to solve your problems... it doesn't. Plugging into the dock's "line out" gets you amp driven sound. I really do not understand why this is such an issue for Android. When I plug somoething into my 3 year old Nokia smartphone a window pops up for me to choose headphones, headset or line out. Why can't ICS offer the option and if in the car dock, default to line out? A USB solution is not going to help if you are using the car dock.
Juvenall said:
A feature request for Android 4.0 to enable USB audio:
http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=24614
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, most def. I want to use several USB dacs on hand. Off for some op amp rollin'.
Edit: The pogo pin dock has a 3.5mm analog/digital output, FYI
Oops
flacoff said:
Edit: The pogo pin dock has a 3.5mm analog/digital output, FYI
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which if I understand correctly uses Bluetooth to transmit compressed audio from the phone to the dock, then delivers it through the 3.5mm jack. Why not just have a digital signal go through the USB port!?
ali87 said:
Which if I understand correctly uses Bluetooth to transmit compressed audio from the phone to the dock, then delivers it through the 3.5mm jack. Why not just have a digital signal go through the USB port!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
actually the pogo pin transfers the digitial audio and the dock decodes it into analog to the 3.5mm output
Can anyone recommend a good 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter for my car.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I got the scosche by adapter from walmart for $36. It plugs into the 3.5mm jack and works well for audio streaming. Calls not so much.
Dicho por el E4GT de Latinmaxima con Tapatalk.
All bluetooth adapters suck. I've tried 10+ different A2DP capable adapters over the course of 2 years and all simply ruin the high frequencies. Nothing beats hardwired Aux cable if you actually care about sound quality...
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
pojieps said:
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
chrisnosleep said:
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually own it... I get WAY better quality over the bluetooth connection than I do with a direct line in. The headphone jack on your phone is designed for just that... headphones. Lining in directly reflects this. Wish there was a way for you to give it a try. I am kind of a sound snob, and I love mine. Plus, all you have to do is get in the car and once the bluetooth pairing happens, the app will open your music app and start playing.
Not trying to push this thing on ya. Just wanted you to know, I own one, and I am not "without knowledge"
Motorola Rokr T505 is small, does well with calls and music playing through blank FM stations to your car stereo. Best $40 investments plus NO CHORDS!
I had this one and used it with my EVO. Worked pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/Miccus-BluBridge-Mini-Jack-Bluetooth-Bluetooth-Enabled/dp/B0038MA11U
I tried an AUX cable on three different phones. There was always a high pitched whine through my speakers. I started using a Samsung HM3500 plugged into the same AUX jack and got better quality music with no whine. Plus, no extra cable running through my car to the dash mount.
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
You could get an FM modulator that would allow you to add a line in via your radio antenna, but they don't have great sound quality.
DutchDogg54 said:
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
nerys71 said:
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all the time. My car had that problem and there were many other factors at fault.
Here are few things to look out for:
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded. If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit. Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
I had crappy stock headunit and weaka$$ stock amp that would always make the static and constant whine problems. Ended up completely redoing the car audio system. Now, even with the headunit not grounded audio quality is PERFECT.
Here are the prices for my audio remodeling, all items bought brand new:
- Sony MEX-BT3900U. Headunit with CD, Aux, Handsfree Phone, Bluetooth A2DP audio, USB ($140)
- Hifonics ZXi80.4. Amplifier with 4 channels, 80W RMS per channel ($134)
- Alpine SPS-600 speakers. 6.5" 2-way speakers, 80W RMS ($50 ea)
- Stinger Pro 3 Series Snake. 6-channel, 20 feet RCA snake that goes from headunit to the amp in the rear ($35)
- 2x22' 8AWG battery-to-amp power wire
- 2x18' 12AWG amp-to-headunit power wire
- 4x18' 16AWG amp-to-front speaker wires
- 4x2' 16AWG amp-to-rear speaker wires
- 30A fuse in the engine bay
I ran the power cables on the left side of the car and ran the RCA snake on the right. everything was exactly $525 and I did all work myself (it's quite easy if you ask). now the sound quality in my used-to-be-audio-hell car is dam near perfect now and has absolutely no noise/static at all. you can jack the volume up crazy high without any distortions for like 80Hz+. 80Hz and below can be a problem when maxing out the volume as the speakers are only 6.5" and weren't meant to deliver bass. don't get me wrong, they do make nice bass but just don't handle it too well when playing it very loud.
after years of running this setup I'd say this was one of the best investments i've ever made. my car is built for drifting so it is setup very stiff and shakes/jumps like crazy when dailying (300mi/week) and when i do take it out for a spin the amount of stress it sees it crazy. after all this time you'd think at least some wires would come loose but nope, everything is still running perfect.
so yeah, if you actually care about sound quality in your car and would like it to last, just redo it from scratch. it's fun and is totally worth it
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Which is a power issue
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded.
Which is a power issue
If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
Which is a power issue
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit.
Which is a power issue
Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
Which is a power issue
See what I mean?
Cars make a lot of "NOISE" this noise is a power issue. it comes from your alternator and your coil and your spark plugs IE "POWER ISSUES"
if you have bad grounds or are lacking noise suppression (cheap equipment old equipment etc.. etc..) or an older car making a TON of extra noise etc.. etc..
Power inverters (especially cheap ones) are notorious for "dirty power" that lets in noise.
when I power my phone off the USB on the cheap inverter's USB port I get big time whine noises painful even.
use the USB port in the radio and I get no noise (but then it tries to "READ" the phone instead of just charging it and won't let me use aux hehe
Sometimes you can get a coil thing to add to power to reduce this noise but usually its just cheap equipment ($7 power inverter
plug a 110v to usb adapter into same inverter and no noise. The 110v adapter isolates and prevents the noise leakage.
nerys71 said:
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha time to clear up a misunderstanding here. my reply was referring to the "unplug your phone and it should go away" statement and thus assuming that you, by saying "its a power issue", were referring only to the inverter that was powering the phone at times getting a better quality inverter (aka, one that has capacitor or capacitor-pack to smooth out the voltage spikes and noise) is sufficient and at times it is not. I've experienced both. it's also worth mentioning that after redoing my sound system even the crappiest of crap inverters works just fine
frifox said:
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I've looked into those kind of replacements...plenty out there for reasonable prices but they would completely mar the aesthetic value of the nice interior of my Bonny. That's why I was saying that only the touchscreens that would fill the whole double (might be 1.5) din stereo spot in my car would do.
Thanks, both of you guys, for your responses...guess I'm stuck waiting till I get a much newer car
I'm not saying that you're wrong about it being a power issue, but the BT headset I mentioned came with an adapter for an AUX jack and that solved my problem. So, either solution works.
the issue is the radio is connected to the same "power source" that your "phone" is now connected to.
so if any component in that chain does not control the power noise (that is what the noise is coming from your power system)
you INJECT that noise into your audio stream the moment you "link" the devices together (power not audio)
this is why if you use a seperate battery pack to charge the phone you will not get this noise. your battery pack is "isolated" from the car's power system literally physically.
I am only talking about the typical whine pop crackle high pitched noise you get the moment you plug in your charger. IE clear no noise plug in chargers Head burster sounds start coming out of your speakers
that noise is a "power issue" you can't eliminate the power issues (except by eliminating your alternator??) but you can filter it. some devices (chargers) do this better than others
the BT unit works because you "broke" the chain. (no audio cable going from the PHONE to the RADIO)
Again, I'm not denying what you're saying. You're absolutely correct. However, OP was asking for the best BT unit to plug into the jack, not how to solve the issues with cables and power sources. I was simply providing my opinion and experience along the lines of what he was asking for.
I have a motorcycle with a car stereo amplifier and I want to use a Windows 8 tablet (lenovo miix2 8) as my head unit/navigation.
◘My goal for this thread is to come up with a solution that uses the fewest amount of wires connected to the tablet.
◘I need to be able to charge the tablet and stream audio to my amp at the same time.
◘Ideas of products that might work:
1. Is having one USB cord going to the tablet, which it would send audio to like a sound card or something similar, and also charge it at the same time.
2. USB used just for charging, and use a bluetooth audio receiver for the amp.
3. I doubt there are compact products that could do this, but a wireless charge pad + a bluetooth audio reciveier to the amp(no wires at all).
(optional product, some kind of remote with a few basic buttons that would let change tracks or volume)
I honestly don't know anything about how usb ports work on tablets in general, but I think my tablet does allow for a device to be attached to it and charged at the same time, but I dont know for sure.
Any suggestions for products I may be able to make one of my three options work?
I have had awful experience with Bluetooth for this situation. I can get it to connect to one BT device after a reboot, but if I want to swap to another BT device I have to reboot again. Sometimes I can get it to reconnect to a different device without a reboot but it requires so much fiddling and just waiting for the bloody thing to stop trying to connect to a device that isn't there, that a reboot is always the fastest and most assured option.
I love the concept of Bluetooth, but its usability renders it almost useless IMHO.
usb seem best
I think usb is gonna give you better sound. Not much, but will do the job
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
I use my n5 as my mp3 player in my car but the sound sucks. I'm thinking of getting a dac to fix this.
I have a otg cable to plug in my usb key that contains my mp3 library. So first I know i will need a y otg, have some all ready but not sur I have the right one but that is a detail. I dont really care about simultaneously charging my phone.
So what good dac do you suggest. Keep in mind I don't have a lot of money, not to sure what kind of budget yet.
Thanks
Please
nitramus said:
I use my n5 as my mp3 player in my car but the sound sucks. I'm thinking of getting a dac to fix this.
I have a otg cable to plug in my usb key that contains my mp3 library. So first I know i will need a y otg, have some all ready but not sur I have the right one but that is a detail. I dont really care about simultaneously charging my phone.
So what good dac do you suggest. Keep in mind I don't have a lot of money, not to sure what kind of budget yet.
Thanks
Click to expand...
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Are you sure you have not a faulty cable/ nexus 5 connector or bad regulated equalizer on nexus 5?
I ask you cause I m not an audiophile but nexus 5 sound great to my ears, almost like nexus s which feature one of the best DAC on portable devices
nitramus said:
I use my n5 as my mp3 player in my car but the sound sucks. I'm thinking of getting a dac to fix this.
I have a otg cable to plug in my usb key that contains my mp3 library. So first I know i will need a y otg, have some all ready but not sur I have the right one but that is a detail. I dont really care about simultaneously charging my phone.
So what good dac do you suggest. Keep in mind I don't have a lot of money, not to sure what kind of budget yet.
Thanks
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Try dragonfly by Audioquest or Cambridge Audio USB DAC. They sound awesome. I prefer the latter one. =)
Thanks for the reply. Everything I get gives me more info to search and get informed.
If you want a good dac at reasonable money try fio,get from Amazon
Sent from my Nexus 5
"Sucks" is a subjective term, but I agree with Axel85. If you're currently getting terrible sound, a USB DAC is a costly hail-mary that likely won't solve your problem. USB OTG DACs are great way to salvage an aging phone as a media player or to bypass a damaged the 3.5mm output. Otherwise, they're a way to turn already "great" sound into "exceptional." I can say with complete confidence that, even over bluetooth, the Nexus 5's built-in audio is impressive. If it "sucks" on your setup, then you definitely want to ensure that the problem doesn't lie elsewhere before investing in a DAC. If it is, in fact, the Nexus 5, ship that sucker back to Google, because a DAC definitely won't help. Just be sure there aren't other elements in your setup putting the constraints on your sound reproduction.
Now if you're truly blessed (cursed?) with golden ears and an audiophile's insatiable desire for perfection, then "sucks" probably has a different meaning for you; Otherwise, it's best to rule out everything else before plopping down substantial cash on a USB DAC. On that note, the Nexus' internal DAC crushes any entry-level/ low-end ($30-$50 DAC), so you'd really only want to consider the next step up, and it is a big step in price. Great units from $120-$200 from Fiio or Cambridge Audio. I've heard the Audioengine D3 on a laptop and it was fantastic, the form factor is great, as well, but I haven't investigated whether it plays nicely with lollipop OTG. There are a lot of issues to consider -some are legitimate headaches. Aside from the additional clutter of more cables and another powered device, the effect on your phone's battery is not one to take lightly. You may be able to currently stream pandora all day long, but with your phone acting as a USB host, you have to be conscious of the potential power draw from any USB DAC. A big amplifier can drain that battery quickly without its own power source to supplement. Many DACs are even equipped with their own internal batteries, but regardless, the power question is not something to minimize. Depending on the unit, powered USB hubs and the right cables can provide an easy fix.
But before you go pulling the trigger on a DAC, let me suggest a few things and some troubleshooting steps...
On the software side:
Play with built-in equalizer/AudioFX/DSP (it may do nothing at all with your ROM & kernel). I also highly recommend that you try playing your media through an app called PowerAmp. If that doesn't give you the fidelity boost you're looking for, then give Viper4Android a whirl. It requires a slightly more complicated installation (depending on the ROM), and the tweaking can get advanced, but the results are truly impressive with the right music. "FauxSound" is a custom kernel I'm yet to experiment with because it's (currently) incompatible with CM12.1 CAF, but the reviews in the forums seem overwhelmingly positive. When it comes to sound, perceptible differences vary from person to person.
As to troubleshooting the phone's output:
It should go without saying, but if your factory head unit and speakers and are junk ...if music has never sounded good on your system, a USB DAC isn't the miracle worker you need. Spend the money on a decent head unit and/or upgrade your speakers. An underpowered, factory installed head unit can turn otherwise decent speakers into muffled distortion makers, so take stock of the equipment you're working with and manage expectations. If you're an audiophile, you can likely ignore much of this, but for the sake of anyone else in a similar boat, considering a DAC to improve audio, lets go down the troubleshooting checkbox:
1) First and foremost, check your source files. If you're streaming, make sure it's high quality. You may need to go into the app's advanced settings. For most people's ears, there are diminishing returns above 320kbps MP3 /256AAC vs. the storage requirements. With the right gear and the right source though, "lossless" music can bring out elements you never heard on your favorite tracks: fingers lifting and moving along frets, or a half-note you never caught. If your ROM is capable of natively playing 96000Hz 24-bit FLAC, by all means, give it a go (or any other lossless).
2) Test your 3.5mm headphone connection with decent pair of actual headphones. Still sucks? Spray the jack with compressed air and see if it helps. Try with another set of headphones. Try with a friend's car, try on your home stereo. Then connect to your car and compare. If it's worse, swap out the cable before anything else. Quality matters here. The difference between the the $0.99 cable you buy at the gas station and the $12 cable at BestBuy can be huge. A quality cable means one sheilded for interference with wiring and connectors made of materials that optimize conductivity (often a thin gold plating). Many are even cut specifically to ensure a solid connection through the narrow opening of an aftermarket case/protector. A better connection means better sound.
3) If all is well with the 3.5mm, plug it into your mobile charger. Audio still clean? If not, try another charger. Still sounding crappy? Is this limited to the car or did you hear it on your headphones? How about over bluetooth? If it's only in the car, and sound gets worse on the charger, there might be a ground loop somewhere in the car's electrical system (often this manifests as a high frequency whine that increases as you accelerate, or changes frequency when you turn on the A/C, headlights, etc). This could be as simple as something plugged into the cars cigarette lighter, or a bad connection somewhere in the vehicles electrical system... The problem is the "somewhere" part, and tracing it down can mean pulling fuses all day long.
3) If you connect over bluetooth (not optimal) perform the same tests. If bluetooth degrades audio quality significantly, then your car stereo may be on an older standard that simply can't operate at the bandwidth capabilities for high-bitrate audio. Aside from just not using bluetooth, there's no simple fix for this. If you dont get a drop in audio quality when connecting to another bluetooth device, then your in-car options are limited: connect via 3.5mm out, replace the head unit with a newer one, or install a bluetooth 4.0+ adapter to the car stereo's auxillary inputs. It's worth at least mentioning that, although unlikely, interference from other devices could be an issue. Anything that operates within the same wireless spectrum as bluetooth could be a source of interference. A bluetooth obdii reader, a wireless transmitter from a rear view camera, even other phones in the car that have been paired with the stereo.... Anything on 2.4ghz Normally, there's a preamble before transmission that keeps devices operating on these frequencies from interfering with each other, but if there's a bluetooth device in the vehicle on an early standard, that may not be the case. Also, if there's any USB 3.0 connection (powered hub, thumb drive) in close proximity to bluetooth, get rid of it or buy a shielded extension cable -noise emitted at the connection crushes bluetooth throughput and connection reliability.
Regardless, just make sure that the rest of your system is up to the task before investing in a DAC. Don't get me wrong, they are fantastic with the right gear, but each component of your setup can improve output as much as it can act as a bottleneck on the quality of the sound it reproduces. Make sure the investment is worth it by ensuring your system is ready for it. If not, put your money towards the fundamentals: Head unit + speakers.
mborzill said:
If your ROM is capable of natively playing 96000Hz 24-bit FLAC, by all means, give it a go.
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Are you aware of any such ROMs?
Well, some clarification is necessary... even stock kitkat should *play* a 24/96FLAC, but "Natively" isn't the correct terminology. If that were true 24/96 on the N5, this thread wouldn't exist. The Nexus 5 downsamples significantly, but the better the source, the better the sample. Quality will be great coming from a lossless 24bit/96khz source, but its not gonna be true 24/96 if its coming from the Nexus 5's internal DAC. It'll be downsampled to its hardware and software limitations. I know with kitkat this was 16bit/48khz, but I can't speak to whether or not this ceiling *actually* increased with Lollipop. In theory, the N5's Qualcomm Wolfson wcd9320 DAC supported up to 192khz, and Lollipop bumped support up to 96khz, but if I recall, it's the Snapdragon 800 that isn't capable of 24/96. Without a DAC, and downsampled to 16bit/48khz, you might get an imperceptibly lower noise floor, but other than I doubt you'd hear a difference between lossless sources.
Personally I think it's total overkill to use up that kind of space without having a DAC capable of reproducing it (or freakin golden ears) but if you're going for the most accurate reference track you can find for problem-tracing, have at it. Even Downsampled, that FLAC will sound much better than an encoded mp3.
If there's a ROM with true "native" 24/96khz reproduction on the N5 I certainly don't know about it... Or need it.
As to specific ROMs and compatibility: Cyanogenmod is my go-to. I prefer Viper4Android over AudioFX, but with major tweaking (specific to my headphones). Out of the box, AudioFX is great.
Lollipop, in general, has vastly improved audio performance. Raised sampling resolution from 16 bit PCM to 24bit and sampling rate from 44/48khz to support 96khz (if the phones hardware can support it, else USB DAC). Lower i/o latency gives the closest thing android has seen to real-time audio since the start (which has been a major issue for musicians,DJ, game developers, even VoIP). Floating point sampling is new too, which, in theory, reduces clipping, improves headroom and dynamic range.
Do I need to use a custom ROM with an external DAC like the Fiio E18 or other DAC's? Could I simply purchase any external DAC? If not what do I need to look for when shopping for external DAC's that work with the Nexus 5?
My Nexus 5 is stock currently on 5.1.
Thank you for any advice.
Viper 4 android.
I connect my LG G4 to the auxiliary jack in my car stereo (stock stereo in a 2007 Saab 9-3) with a standard 3.5 mm male to male audio cable. The process to get the audio to come through my speakers is rather cumbersome.
I have to follow this procedure:
1. Unplug the audio cable from the aux jack in the car stereo
2. Plug other end of the audio cable into the phone
3. Open Google Music and press play on the music I want to listen to
4. Plug audio cable back into the aux jack on stereo
5. Change stereo from Radio/band to Aux
I have to do this every single time, and if my music happens to reach the end of the album or playlist to where it is no longer playing anything, I have to repeat the above steps. When I had an HTC One M7 and M8 I didn't have to do any of this. I could just connect my phone and press play...no problems.
I really hate having to do this for two reasons. First, if while driving, I decide to listen to music on my phone rather than the radio, it really distracting and unsafe to mess with while driving. Second, I'm afraid with all the plugging/unplugging on my car stereo is going to wear out the aux jack and degrade the audio quality.
Anyone else having this issue with their G4? Any suggestions? I know someone with a G3 and they don't have any issues like this when plugging into their car stereo, although they have a different car, but I don't think it would really matter.
Kevin82485 said:
I connect my LG G4 to the auxiliary jack in my car stereo (stock stereo in a 2007 Saab 9-3) with a standard 3.5 mm male to male audio cable. The process to get the audio to come through my speakers is rather cumbersome.
I have to follow this procedure:
1. Unplug the audio cable from the aux jack in the car stereo
2. Plug other end of the audio cable into the phone
3. Open Google Music and press play on the music I want to listen to
4. Plug audio cable back into the aux jack on stereo
5. Change stereo from Radio/band to Aux
I have to do this every single time, and if my music happens to reach the end of the album or playlist to where it is no longer playing anything, I have to repeat the above steps. When I had an HTC One M7 and M8 I didn't have to do any of this. I could just connect my phone and press play...no problems.
I really hate having to do this for two reasons. First, if while driving, I decide to listen to music on my phone rather than the radio, it really distracting and unsafe to mess with while driving. Second, I'm afraid with all the plugging/unplugging on my car stereo is going to wear out the aux jack and degrade the audio quality.
Anyone else having this issue with their G4? Any suggestions? I know someone with a G3 and they don't have any issues like this when plugging into their car stereo, although they have a different car, but I don't think it would really matter.
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I do car electronics install for a living... I'm not familiar with how Saab does aux (I don't see many saabs), but in most vehicles there is a 'sense' wire in the aux plug. You will know if it has one because without a cable plugged in, you won't be able to select the aux source. In your case, the residual connection from your phone's fm radio (uses headphone cable as antenna) might be interfering with the 'sense' wire in the aux plug. I would suggest trying a different aux cable, like one with 4 bands instead of 3. They are typically used to carry audio as well as video. If that doesn't work, amazon has these universal Bluetooth receivers that plug into the aux port, which for sure will do what you need it to.
Example of 4 band cable-
http://www.amazon.com/Screen-Screen-3-5mm-Philips-Player/dp/B00D3SXPGC
The Bluetooth reciever would be my choice though-
http://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Integrated-multi-point-technology/dp/B008AGQMQC
esmenikmatixx said:
I do car electronics install for a living... I'm not familiar with how Saab does aux (I don't see many saabs), but in most vehicles there is a 'sense' wire in the aux plug. You will know if it has one because without a cable plugged in, you won't be able to select the aux source. In your case, the residual connection from your phone's fm radio (uses headphone cable as antenna) might be interfering with the 'sense' wire in the aux plug. I would suggest trying a different aux cable, like one with 4 bands instead of 3. They are typically used to carry audio as well as video. If that doesn't work, amazon has these universal Bluetooth receivers that plug into the aux port, which for sure will do what you need it to.
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The stereo in the model year range of my Saab is basically the same that GM put in Pontiacs and other makes in the 2007 year range. GM owned Saab at the time. I know someone with a Ponitac G6 (I think that is model, it is definitely a Pontiac) and I remember remarking that he had the same stereo as me. The buttons and interface look nearly identical. If I have the aux cable plugged into the stereo I can select the Aux source, even if I don't have anything else connected. If no cable is plugged into the stereo, I cannot select the Aux source.
What I don't understand is why it worked fine with no weird issues with the HTC One M8, but it doesn't work with the G4. Sounds like a software bug to me.
As far as I know Verizon disables the FM receiver in the G4 just like they did in the HTC One M8 and basically all of their phones. It's still in physically in the phone, so maybe it can still interfere in some way, but if it worked on the M8 I don't understand why the G4 is different in this respect.
I'll try a different cable and/or a 4 band cable though and see if it makes a difference.
I used my G4 in my car (2009 RAV4) without issues. I didn't do anything special, just plugged it in then started playing the podcast app. I don't recall if the sequence mattered at all. I typically plug the cable into the phone first, then start playing the audio.
I believe I have a "sense wire" that esmenikmatixx referred to, as I believe my car will not let me select Aux if nothing is plugged into the car. I have an audio cable that I always leave plugged into the car's port, to reduce wear on the jack.
I didn't try the music app in the car, unfortunately. FWIW, Google Music was fine for me with headphones, no weird issues. I have Verizon, but I have since returned my G4, so I can't check anything else for you, sorry.
So I decided to get a bluetooth adapter that plugs into the Aux input on my car stereo and it works great with the exception that the audio volume is ridiculously low. I max out the bluetooth volume on my phone as well as the separate volume on the bluetooth adapter and it is really quiet. Turn up my car stereo you say, but ah, I have to turn my car stereo up to near maximum as well to get a decent volume that could be heard while driving. When I turn the car stereo volume up this loud the speakers become overrun with static and it makes it sound like I'm listening on an FM channel that barely comes in.
I've noticed lower volume over bluetooth on my LG Tone bluetooth earbuds as well. I used these the LG Tone's with my HTC One and had no problems with volume levels. The first time I connected my LG Tones to my LG G4, I had to nearly max out the volume on the Tones (despite having the LG G4 bluetooth volume maxed as well) to hear audio at the same level that I previously did on my HTC One.
So bluetooth is not going to be an answer, the quality is too poor. I dug around on the Play Store and found an app called "Soundabout". The app will allow you to force your audio out through whatever source you want even when the output device is not connected. I set it to force audio through wired headset and it works for the most part. I don't have to do any weird unplugging and re-plugging of audio cable just plug and play. The only thing is that sometimes when I connect the phone and press play on a song you can tell that Soundabout is fighting with the crap software on the phone to force the audio to the wired headset (wired speakers) because the audio will cut in and out and then stop. After pressing play enough times that it wins out, it will finally go through the wired connection. The one downside is that if I'm out of my car and want to listen to something through the speaker on the phone I have to go back into the Soundabout app and change the output to "let the app decide".
So, I'm 100% sure it is something with the software on the phone. There is little doubt. I have no problems with any other phone connected to my car stereo. It's not like I have some aftermarket stereo. This stereo is as stock and basic as you can get. When they designed the audio controls and functionality on this phone they didn't put a lot of thought into it. It's frustrating because otherwise this is a great phone I just hate messing with this stupid audio issue. All I can do is hope it's patched. There are no built-in options on the phone to tweak audio settings.
I can't imagine I'm the only one having problems like this.
LG Customer Support has been predictably unhelpful. I may just return this and get a different phone if I still can.
RedOCtobyr said:
I used my G4 in my car (2009 RAV4) without issues. I didn't do anything special, just plugged it in then started playing the podcast app.
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Same for me. Works fine in my 2008 Subaru. I've run everything from local mp3 files to Audible to iHeartRadio and Pandora through it without a problem. Even the Smart Settings for auto-starting Audible actually work.
Makster said:
Same for me. Works fine in my 2008 Subaru. I've run everything from local mp3 files to Audible to iHeartRadio and Pandora through it without a problem. Even the Smart Settings for auto-starting Audible actually work.
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I plugged it in with an audio cable to my girlfriend's Mazda and it works fine. Guess I'm S.O.L. Highly unlikely LG would patch this if it's software due to being so isolated. Would be interested to hear from those with a mid to late 2000's GM vehicle since they all have basically the same stereo as Saab. Maybe it is an issue with my stereo, but I don't understand then why other phones work just fine.
Frustrating because there is nothing I can do to fix it other than spend a bunch of money to replace my stereo which I can't afford, or spend an equal amount of a bunch of money to pay off the G4 so that I can get a different phone to then make more payments on, and Verizon absolutely, no exceptions, refuses to exchange it for something like a Galaxy, Note 4, anything different than a G4 because I'm 5 days past the 14 day return period. Guess I only have myself to kick in the ass for not doing sooner, but I wish someone at Verizon was kindhearted enough to make an exception.
Sorry for venting.
Sorry to hear about the issues. Did you try the 4 band cable idea?
RedOCtobyr said:
Sorry to hear about the issues. Did you try the 4 band cable idea?
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Not yet, but I will. I've been reading on another website that the G3, last year's model, had this exact same problem. There's a thread with tons of people reporting the same problem. Some used a cable like this one which was suggested earlier and it solved their issue. Suppose I should have tried that to begin with. I'm going to try this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K36XWG0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
I'll report back if it worked or not at least so that if others come across this they have a starting point.
I got the 4 pole to 3 pole audio cable today and it doesn't work. I tried flipping the cable around and it still didn't work. I don't know what else to try, anyone have suggestions?
Kevin 82485, late on this thread but I just purchased a 2007 Saab 9-3 and I'm having the same issues with my LG G4. I just downloaded the soundabout app you mentioned, but have you found a better solution than that?
2007 saab 9-5 and LG Aristo on Metro PCS. Same issue as OP. Its definitely a LG issue, wifes Galaxy works without issues, no fiddling with the cable and audio pausing and plugging unplugging plugging and trying to play audio. Good phone, garbage audio coding.