How to replace ribbon cable? - G2 and Desire Z Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Well, In replacing my spring I broke the flex cable somehow. Kinda irritated at myself, especially since I have my old razr in my pocket, but oh well. I have one ordered on amazon, and my phone is setting on my desk torn apart. Unfortunately, how to replace the flex cable is not immediately obvious to me, as it appears that it's one ginormous piece , and glued down in certain spots.
I figured I'd do some research waiting for my new cable to get here, but I'm finding nothing. The tear down guide that was very helpful in replacing the springs and tearing it down to find the damaged part of the cable is of now help on how to get the cable off!
My first instinct is just to get something flat and pry up the glued parts, assuming that I'll be aligning everything when I get the new cable, but I thought I'd ask first if there is some better solution.

Well, for posterity, that really was all there was to it. There are several easy reference points on the ribbon cable as to how to line up the new one, if you're lucky there will still be some adhesive from the original. The only slightly tricky part is getting the Microphone seated just right, and getting the screen-> mainboard cable through all the slots it has to go through.
Also, an obligatory search bomb
Ribbon cable replacement
Flexible PCB replacement
Ribbon connector replacement

Related

HTC USB PCB connector where from?

Hi my USB connector is intermittent and i can see where its broken in the connector so i want to replace it because HTC will NOT do it under warranty.
I bought a couple for RS for 50peach, but they aren't quite right, Farnell haven't got the right one's either. ANyone know where to get the correct connectors?
as an aside, having opened and inspected this phone i'm really pleased with the well thought out connector placement. The connector has surface mount contacts, with a thru hole chassis then a strong steel shield with more thru hole anchors is soldered over the top. It makes it really strong and protected from pushing inwards as well as rocking form side to side which is what you want for a connector to the outside world.

My experience fixing Xperia PLAY phones.

In addition to the constant influx of iPods and iPhones friends, family, and coworkers bring me to fix, I've taken apart a few different Xperia PLAY phones more times than I can count, so I thought I'd give a few "pro tips" to people who need to know the ins and outs of it. This isn't a disassembly, assembly, or even a repair guide, it's just the stuff I think those guys missed.
First, don't use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the front glass + digitizer. The plastic frame wrinkles and melts readily, particularly right under the face buttons.
Second, make sure you transfer as much as possible when you replace the frame. Replacement frames usually do not include the rubber shroud for the proximity sensor and it will not work right without it. I had one phone that seemingly worked fine until the screen protector peeled off while inserting in a pocket and then no amount of clear tape, screen protectors, or Sharpie-marking would fix it. A salvaged rubber shroud fixed it right up. Some replacement frames have a film-backed adhesive for holding it there and some don't. It probably depends on when they were yanked from the manufacturing line, assuming that they are original parts and not replica parts. You also want to make sure you transfer are the inner dust gasket that goes underneath the frame/glass or else things will be filling up with dust quickly. There is no speaker grill and the foam around it does not stop intrusion. A salvaged frame/glass adhesive is likely to allow dust in unless you didn't have to pick much out of it when swapping (usually glass shards). There are also little metallic grounding foam rectangles crammed in the corners that only one replacement frame I've seen has ever included (was probably salvage though listed as "new"). They probably aren't necessary and I've gone long periods without them, but why wonder if a static charge build up is responsible for your erratic touch screen?
Next, be extremely careful separating the glass from the frame. I've managed to crack good ones even going slowly and leaving gaps filled with picks and pry tools. Heat didn't seem to help much and, as mentioned earlier, is discouraged. Cleaning the screen after man-handling it isn't always easy, but don't avoid touching the back side because you will probably need the area to spread the pressure and avoid a crack. I use a levered "mini suction cup" from Harbor Freight on the top side and as many fingers as spread out as I can on the bottom, but the suction cup is near useless on a cracked screen (even tape-coated). I do suggest covering a shattered screen with tape to hold all the bits together but you are still going to have a hard time cleaning the adhesive up. You can always buy a frame with digitizer pre-installed but I know a lot of you want to buy complete replacement housings instead and it's kind of a waste, but at least you don't need to worry about that adhesive (still: don't forget to transfer the other bits!).
The digitizer parts I've salvaged from phones had higher version numbers than the ones I've seen sold as replacement parts and seemed to be more erratic so I prefer salvaged ones. There can be other problems as well. The flat flex cable from the digitizer is supposed to have an adhesive backing that holds it still where it connects to the tiny cable from the earpiece. Replacements often do not have it, which is yet ANOTHER reason to prefer salvage parts. It may not seem like such a big deal considering that there is a black plastic piece screwed down over it to protect it from getting caught in the mechanism, but the connector does not hold on very well and the phone will not boot if it is slightly out of alignment. If you reassemble it and just get a buzz from the vibration motor with no display and no other sign of booting, check this connection (same thing if the digitizer suddenly stops registering touch). Even a small drop/impact will cause it to happen again, so I recommend securing it with precisely cut tape or hot glue (stay clear of the sliding rails).
Now, keep it clean while you work or you will be staring at that contaminate or thumbprint for a long time. I usually wear fresh latex gloves when working on the glass but it doesn't do much good if you keep transferring oils from the rest of the phone. Wash your hands right before you start and clean the outside of the phone. Before you begin, try just touch a used dish soap dispenser with a damp thumb and run all along to screen except the buttons and earpiece. Do it again with just the damp thumb (dilutes the soap that remained from the first pass) and wipe it with a clean lint-free cloth. Your own clean and dry fingertips/palm should readily absorb any remaining streaks/oils. Be sure to wipe down the rest of the phone too and don't transfer it back to the glass. Once inside I use layer after layer of clear tape to lift gunk from the earpiece (no mesh, remember?). Put on new gloves before you start handling the glass after disassembly, even if you were wearing some for disassembly. To clean the back of the glass I put the adhesive between wax paper while I clean using lint-free cloths, 90+% alcohol, and acetone. For the LCD, use tape to lift most contaminates and resort to alcohol + lint-free cloth if that doesn't work. It doesn't need to be too perfect, especially if scratched from cracked glass. Most imperfections only show when it's off.
Hot glue is great for removing adhesive screw covers without showing pick marks or other signs of tampering but you have to make sure to leave an edge exposed so that you aren't just picking it out of the glue instead. I've been getting mine off cleanly without any tricks like this but it came in handy when I was first disassembling one and there weren't any guides to tell me that there weren't screws under the large silver strip (just covers rivets or injections mold points, IIRC). It's also good for sealing off water sensors, like the one you see through a hole under the battery door. There's another one by the contacts on the battery itself, one by the microphone under the gamepad, and one in the opposite corner under the PS Certified logo. I had an AT&T rep tell me that a brand new phone had a tripped water sensor (LIES!) so I would look for ways to do this with most any new phone.
I can't count how many times I've left the power button out while reassembling. It's not usually that I forgot: It's that it falls out while snapping the back on. I've left the face buttons out a few times too.
My first one had the cable folded wrong after reassembly. It still worked fine for a couple years but did eventually require replacement. Once it folds wrong it'll probably stay that way even after correct reassembly (like mine did). Do not try to attach it to the main PCB using a spudger, butterknife, or whatever to awkwardly push the connector down with everything pulled apart. The only thing you need to do is to slide the cable into the phone's closed position, align the plastic posts on the connector with the corresponding holes on the PCB, and then push down on the PCB until it snaps. I'm sure I tried this first back then but chickened out because the connector didn't snap very easily but that is how you are supposed to do it.
Before I talk about the replacing the slide cable, I want to express my annoyance at all the eBay/YouTube/iFixIt.com people who call it a "flex cable." I don't like the term flex cable because generally ALL cables should be flexible and that doesn't distinguish what it is well enough for people looking for the part. Technically, it's a flat cable or a slide cable, though I wouldn't object to it being called a flex PCB (flex PCBs usually have components other than just connectors like a rigid printed circuit board would). "Flex cable" is silly, redundant, and does not describe anything more specific than just "cable." To complicate matters, there are several actual flex PCBs in this phone to distinguish from when ordering the part. Why did so many people start calling flex PCBs "flex cables" in the first place?! In our case the sliding portion is a *flat* cable, so I can see where "cable" was introduced from, but people say "flex cable" for any flat cable made like a flex PCB these days whether fixed or sliding. At least you know now that you are probably going to have to use the incorrect terminology to find what you want online and sift through many useless results.
*whew*
Now, slide cable replacement is easier than it would seem but intact removal isn't and brand new replacements can be defective. It was a troubleshooting nightmare when I encountered a defective one because I replaced the LCD and glass + digitizer at the same time and suspected/checked everything else first, even taking apart my personal phone multiple times to test parts. The plastic part of the connector on the PCB end must be transferred to the new cable and the old one will not reliably stick back down to it even if you did not contaminate the adhesive. I successfully transferred a cable from a water-damaged phone to my personal phone before fixing up the water-damaged donor phone with a new one, so the adhesive on the salvaged part was weak and I didn't realize how hard it was to remove intact until later. When separating the defective new one there was seemingly no place to pry on one end other than underneath the part where the earpiece/camera connector was located. This broke the side of the connector that holds the locking flap though I was still able to use/lock it. I claimed warranty on the defective part anyway because the connector was not needed for proving the cable was defective (a functional cable works with that connector populated or not). This new part was slightly different from those found originally installed in the phone (different colored plastic connectors and such). The second new one I ordered from elsewhere had double-sided adhesive down the middle, a foil quality control sticker, and the same odd connector colors. I didn't think there was a market for replica parts on this phone but it does seem like more than simple factory revisions. Anyway, removing it involves removing metallic tape then lifting a plate that is still adhered underneath with amber-colored Kapton tape. You can see it from the slide mechanism below. I pinch the plate from above and below with two fingers and lift, gradually peeling the tape which I then fold inside and secure to avoid contaminating the adhesive. The cable has a plastic band across it that fits between fingers on this plate. When secured, this isolates the end with multiple connectors from the movement of the sliding portion, so make sure this is in place when reinstalling. It may be best to avoid removing the adhesive backing paper until after the plate and cable are securely taped back down with both the Kapton and metallic tape while the fingers are holding it in position. If you stick it down first and then secure the plate you may find it slightly too long or short to position inside the plate when securing it all back down. To thread the main connector through the slide board opening it may seem that it will only fit by folding the cable but DON'T! Coil it. Without flattening it, bend the connector 90-degrees over from the cable path and then adjust the angle until you have a coil-shape that you can work through with the connector sideways.
I ordered a "no useable parts" dummy phone just for the heck of it and, other than the Sony Ericsson logo on the fake battery door and maybe the stickers that cover the screws, they really don't have any salvageable parts. You can't swap any buttons, keys, springs, covers, etc into a real phone. The closest would be the face buttons. They will fit in a real phone, but they are too tall and put constant pressure on the PCB switches causing unintended key-presses (especially back and search buttons). The extra height easily protrudes out the top and is not the issue so filing them down vertically won't fix anything. I snipped some excess rubber to more closely match the design of the original buttons but it didn't help. I unscrewed the screw in the corner under the search key and unsnapped the bottom edge of the frame from the back/slide board and they work great until the phone inevitably snaps back together. I'd say they felt better then the original with the extra height (I can't stand how close they are to the screen). It's tolerable with ICS/JB's Navigation Bar (on-screen key functions), but I would rather salvage real buttons or pay too much for the eBay ones ($10-$20; very uncommon part; always sold with crap you probably don't need).
I have yet to find a replacement battery door that includes the rubber trim around the speakers and the foam piece surrounding the rear/noise-canceling microphone. I've ordered a few auctions that show them in the pictures but they always arrive bare. You can transfer them with a razor but it likely won't be perfect. Without them the speaker audio will probably echo around inside the battery compartment and make its way into the mic, though people usually don't notice it. Painting on some Plasti-Dip might do the trick, so try that if it bothers you.
Unlike an iPhone with a million different screws, you don't have to keep track of what goes where and everything is easily accessible. Bare minimum to take it all apart: Some fingernails, a T5 or T6 (pick one) and a PH0, 00, or 000 Phillips (pick one). There don't seem to be any tamper/warranty seals and the only concealed screws are the two obvious ones underneath metallic cover stickers on the display/slide board. There are no screws under tape or labels and no water sensors covering them either. All 6 Phillips screws are the same size but you'll likely want to keep the two with adhesive in their original holes to re-use the covers (adhesive usually remains on the screw instead of the cover). There are only two different Torx screw types but it's obvious what goes where (6 stubby flat ones on the top and bottom, 7 long thin ones around the battery area).
There are bits and bobs taped to and embedded in the rear housing including antenna/RF stuff, some more obvious that others. I've compared and the R800x is very different from the R800at even though the plastic frame looks really similar (R800x has a blocked SIM slot, of course). IMO, any housing swap should be limited to the front frame, the gamepad, and the battery door (only colored parts anyway). If you nicked your chrome, hopefully it was on a button or something that can be swapped (springs are a pain). It may be possible to transfer everything but I wouldn't trust it after all the peeling and picking. The one report I've seen of someone transferring between a GSM/CDMA models seems blissfully unaware of the metal wire behind the volume keys on the CDMA model that isn't there on GSM (at least it's not there on my R800at GSM).
That's all my advice for now. If you are having any trouble, let me know.
Excellent guide, thank you for taking the time to type this up. I think a mod should sticky this.....
Awesome guide! Thanks much for it!
@ozzmanj1 Agree, so more people will notice it.
Thanks for help buddy!!!
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Arevyn said:
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Arevyn said:
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am color blind and never took notice but I switched LCD between R800i, R800x, and R800at and they were all compatible. They have no reason to make anything in that half of the phone different, so they don't.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
narflynn619 said:
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
matfai said:
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
matfai said:
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my experience, cable alignment has also been an all or nothing issue so you probably need to replace the digitizer. It couldn't hurt to realign the digitizer cable first just in case it can avoid an unnecessary expense. That fixed a Cubot C9+ I worked on Saturday (digitizer not working at all) but not the iPhone 4S I worked on yesterday (bottom row of digitizer not responding).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
stuck in safe mode after replace slider cable(flex)
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
docsmiley said:
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Bakisha said:
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
docsmiley said:
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have received a defective flex cable before so it's possible you have also. In my case it didn't work at all (no picture).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Thanks for your replies I'll see if I can get it replaced
Sendt fra min Galaxy S4 med Tapatalk
slide flex replacement
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
dashu31 said:
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are the same. I have also switched then between a "4G" R800at and a R800x. I have also received bad digitizer flex cables that were new. It really is luck of the draw. A lot of replacement parts on eBay are factory seconds, which may have been removed from the production line for good reason. That's why I always order parts in sets of two for anything I know I will need in the future and I always test both. For example, recently I got two iPhone 4S screens and one had the frame installed upside down. Before that I ordered two replacement iPhone 4 30-pin dock replacements and one had a defective microphone. Before that I ordered two iPod touch 2G digitizer/frame assemblies and one didn't work along the left side.
Here I am identifying a couple bad iPhone displays from a lot:
http://youtu.be/TbxzCiGhwPM
I didn't own an iPhone so I had to test them all with the phone the first customer provided.
Edit: Oh! And make sure the problem is not with the digitizer connection under the black plastic cover. Mine works it's way loose all the time and needs to be secured with tape. Even when inserted fully straight and locked, I put it together and find it not working or the display black until I take it back apart and reseat it. It will twist slightly and even the slightest angle affects the connection.

[Q] Help

I was trying to fix one problem and ended up making another.. Anyone know if the plastic piece that has the latch on the mother board (zif connector maybe?) that holds the ribbon for the charger can be replaced? The tablet still works but I can now no longer charge it or plug it into the computer. If its not possible to fix that then is wireless charging possible? I know I still wouldn't be able to sync with the computer but I would be good with that as long as I can charge it.
Below is a pic of what im talking about
Erm ouch, im no electrician but i think you may have ****ed it...
Right well best thing i can suggest is that a Samsung repair agent might have to look at it.
(Or you could find the pieces on the Interwebs for it)
I've done this a few times to laptop motherboards years ago. Just use some high quality tape to make sure the connection is complete. If it comes undone you'll just have to redo it, but if you use good tape you shouldn't have to. Definitely not the end of the world, they're just cheap plastic clips.
wbaner said:
I was trying to fix one problem and ended up making another.. Anyone know if the plastic piece that has the latch on the mother board (zif connector maybe?) that holds the ribbon for the charger can be replaced? The tablet still works but I can now no longer charge it or plug it into the computer. If its not possible to fix that then is wireless charging possible? I know I still wouldn't be able to sync with the computer but I would be good with that as long as I can charge it.
Below is a pic of what im talking about
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Even u manage to wireless charge it and how is tablet suppose to get power from the battery?
The zif connector is cheap, but alot hasssle to remove the board and dont know if the EMI shield is soldered into the board or with screw like Note 10.1 had.
Hard to see from this disassemble video. (scroll to end)
If u got good soldering skills and can find the zif connector part. Then its worth a try.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOzrRu8PB2Y&list=WL&index=3
Backyard repairs
All you need to do is achieve 2 things.
1. Locate it so that the cable contacts line up with the pins in the connector.
2. Apply pressure on the cable so it has good contact.
Using your fingers put pressur on it and check that its charging when plugged into the usb.
Then tape it in position.
To get the pressure on it, cut a piece of plastic and tape it on the area where it contacts the pins.
Then cut some rubber so that its thick enough such that it puts pressure on that plastic bit when its put back together.
Tape that rubber in position and put cover back on.
Should last, but if not just redo it again and get the rubber thickness right.
warboat said:
All you need to do is achieve 2 things.
1. Locate it so that the cable contacts line up with the pins in the connector.
2. Apply pressure on the cable so it has good contact.
Using your fingers put pressur on it and check that its charging when plugged into the usb.
Then tape it in position.
To get the pressure on it, cut a piece of plastic and tape it on the area where it contacts the pins.
Then cut some rubber so that its thick enough such that it puts pressure on that plastic bit when its put back together.
Tape that rubber in position and put cover back on.
Should last, but if not just redo it again and get the rubber thickness right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha.. I was messing around and figured this out.. only I put a piece of cardboard box on it and taped it.. put the cover back on it and its charging again.
wbaner said:
haha.. I was messing around and figured this out.. only I put a piece of cardboard box on it and taped it.. put the cover back on it and its charging again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it says charging but the percent is still going down?
Going to power off the tablet and see what happens.. ugh
Also watched the video that was posted and I cant really tell much from the video.. if you can just buy one of those sockets and have it put on the motherboard then I will go that route.

[Q] Display isn't right after screen, digitizer, LCD replacement.

I dropped my 1gen N7 which cracked the screen and left it completely unresponsive to touch. I got a replacement screen digitizer LCD off Amazon and installed it myself. It works, but but most of what should be black is red, on half the screen most whites are teal, and there are ghosts/shadows under the keyboard letters and other random stuff. Did I likely get a bad lcd or could a damaged ribbon cause this? I'll try to get a video of it, but I don't know if it'll come out accurate. If it works I'll post a link to it.
72mino said:
I dropped my 1gen N7 which cracked the screen and left it completely unresponsive to touch. I got a replacement screen digitizer LCD off Amazon and installed it myself. It works, but but most of what should be black is red, on half the screen most whites are teal, and there are ghosts/shadows under the keyboard letters and other random stuff. Did I likely get a bad lcd or could a damaged ribbon cause this? I'll try to get a video of it, but I don't know if it'll come out accurate. If it works I'll post a link to it.
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If you look closely at the lcd ribbon (amber, not silver), the end going to the motherboard has a snap-on connector. It has to snap straight top down; otherwise, it would bend the pins (most likely on the motherboard side), and that in turn will cause the kind of distortions you described. Look with a loupe of at least 10X and you will see if anything was damaged on both ends (ribbon and motherboard connectors). If you see pins that are just bent out of shape, you can try to bend them back, but be very gentle. Once they break, the whole motherboard would become unusable.
Also, the EMI tape covering the connector must be preserved and stuck to its metal top side. Without it, the tab would have all kinds of interferences.
graphdarnell said:
If you look closely at the lcd ribbon (amber, not silver), the end going to the motherboard has a snap-on connector. It has to snap straight top down; otherwise, it would bend the pins (most likely on the motherboard side), and that in turn will cause the kind of distortions you described. Look with a loupe of at least 10X and you will see if anything was damaged on both ends (ribbon and motherboard connectors). If you see pins that are just bent out of shape, you can try to bend them back, but be very gentle. Once they break, the whole motherboard would become unusable.
Also, the EMI tape covering the connector must be preserved and stuck to its metal top side. Without it, the tab would have all kinds of interferences.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for your help.
I'm guessing the emi tape was the silver piece of tape. That was the only thing I couldn't save. As soon as I peeled it off it rolled up and I couldn't get it unstuck from itself. Where could I get some, or is there anything I could substitute for it?
72mino said:
Thank you very much for your help.
I'm guessing the emi tape was the silver piece of tape. That was the only thing I couldn't save. As soon as I peeled it off it rolled up and I couldn't get it unstuck from itself. Where could I get some, or is there anything I could substitute for it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're in the us, give me an address and I'll send you enough to replace the lost piece.

[Q] Screen repair gone awry?

Our daughter dropped my wife's 1st generation nexus 7 and broke the screen. From ebay I bought a new digitizer/screen but when I installed that I accidentally bent and ruined the LCD Screen Flex Ribbon Cable. I bought one of those from ebay. Yesterday I installed the new LCD Screen Flex Ribbon Cable.
The screen now works, sort of.
This is it while booting http://www.unusualgoods.us/tablet1.jpg
This is it at the launcher http://www.unusualgoods.us/tablet2.jpg
Video from yesterday http://www.unusualgoods.us/tablet_video1.mp4
Then this morning I turned the tablet on and it looks like this: http://www.unusualgoods.us/tablet_video2.mp4
Can you tell me what the issue is? None of the other cables seem damaged and I've been very careful handling it.
Any ideas as to what is going on?
Thanks
I had issues getting the links to work, but I fixed it...
All you can do is clean all the contacts with alcohol and reseat them.
Make sure the connections are not loose, if some are you might need to slip a little paper shim in there to put more pressure on the contacts. I had to do this on the charging ribbon of the 2012 or it wouldn't charge. Thin wax paper fixed it.
If that doesn't work maybe the screen was busted to begin with?
While I had posted to the forum, I emailed the ebay seller of the digitizer/screen and let them know what was going on.
After they looked at the pics, they suggested that I take the thing apart, again, clean all the contacts with alcohol and reassemble.
That worked!
Everything is working fine now.
Yay!
Yeah thats what I said. Cool.
I'll add those contacts on the 2012 at least seem to fail after a while. I think it's oxidation of the metal on the ribbon contacts and/or the contacts in the socket.
Whatever. If it gives you problems again you know what to do. Clean it with alcohol.

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