Develop Bugs

[Q] Audio line-out for Galaxy Nexus

Hello all ,
Is there a way to get an audio line-out from the Galaxy Nexus, either using an adapter or a docking station? I'm not looking for a solution like the one offered by the Samsung Galaxy S2's car dock (which streams bluetooth audio from the phone to the dock, then the dock turns the bluetooth streaming to analog audio through a 3.5mm port) but rather something like an adapter for the MHL port or from the docking station.
Appreciate all the help!

The obvious solution (at least to me) is to plug into the headphone jack. You could also use either the media dock or MHL adapter in conjunction with an HDMI-to-analog adapter such as the one linked below:
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-RCA-comp...OQPU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1321905031&sr=8-2

vespoid said:
The obvious solution (at least to me) is to plug into the headphone jack. You could also use either the media dock or MHL adapter in conjunction with an HDMI-to-analog adapter such as the one linked below:
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-RCA-comp...OQPU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1321905031&sr=8-2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He's asking for a line out solution because it will bypass the internal headphone amp that is utilized when the 3.5mm port is used. If you're plugging the phone into speakers or a sound system that way you'll get much better sound.

If the mhl -> HDMI cable adapter carries both audio and video, you could use an hdmi breakout adapter to split the digital audio. It depends on the HDMI output capabilities of the phone and the acceptability of digital audio for your needs.
Edit: would no doubt be a cumbersome solution. It all comes down to your usage scenario for the output.
Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk

Thank you vespoid, ardabey.
What OJ in Compton said, I'm looking to bypass the internal headphone amp, not sure if there are any details on the car dock or desk dock, I hope 3rd party manufacturers come up with something, any solutions are welcome.
Ali

Never thought about this, but a contactless dock with HDMI out directly to the AMP = audio bliss. Thanks to the forum for letting me see the obvious

Bumping this thread...has anyone successfully done this? I want line out audio for my car's 3.5mm AUX input - had it with my ipod and it sounded much better than through the headphone jack, as well the convenience of not having to maintain two volumes.
Hoping the official car dock that uses the 3 pin connector and has a 3.5 out would do this, but I'm worried it will just use BT to transmit the audio to the dock like I read the Nexus One dock did.

I wish too that the NG had line level out.
I think it's a limitation of the hardware. I think Apple is the online one that really uses line level out via it's dock connector.
I hope someday Google will use some sort of line level out on their reference hardware or built support directly into a newer OS.
I remember my old Dell DJ had line level out. Soooooo much better.

There is nothing wrong with the 3.5mm output sound quality wise.
Trying to drive headphone-like impedance (lower) with a line out isn't the best idea, but driving higher impedance inputs like your car deck isn't that bad as long as you let the amps do the "work" of boosting the volume and not your phone. While not optimal, the decrease in sound quality shouldn't be very noticeable.
The main advantage of the digital audio though USB (what apple does) IMO is that it eliminates the need to have both the USB plugged in to charge and the 3.5 mm cord for audio. It also allows song data to be shared and device control from the speaker/head unit. Good setups will recognize most android devices as mass USB storage and provide the same functionality, but I'm not sure how the MTS on the GN will affect this.

I would wait and see how the audio quality is from the dock. Even if it is bluetooth, the audio quality may not be that bad.

Lithoss said:
There is nothing wrong with the 3.5mm output sound quality wise.
Trying to drive headphone-like impedance (lower) with a line out isn't the best idea, but driving higher impedance inputs like your car deck isn't that bad as long as you let the amps do the "work" of boosting the volume and not your phone. While not optimal, the decrease in sound quality shouldn't be very noticeable.
The main advantage of the digital audio though USB (what apple does) IMO is that it eliminates the need to have both the USB plugged in to charge and the 3.5 mm cord for audio. It also allows song data to be shared and device control from the speaker/head unit. Good setups will recognize most android devices as mass USB storage and provide the same functionality, but I'm not sure how the MTS on the GN will affect this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is, that if the head unit supports MTP then yes it can read the device like mass-storage, thats fine, but it doesn't allow you to stream media from radio apps, youtube and turn-by-turn directions from gps, this is what we are looking for...
technically it's not sending analog audio output through the USB, its just reading the stored media on the phone.
I have read that samsung phones are able to accomplish sending analog audio through the USB while charging, with the correct resistance values (adapter) or possibly with software pointing the audio in that direction (for example code build into the framework/API)
this is one major thing that Android lacks over iPhone, this problem should be addressed ASAP. I'm hoping CM9 might be able to find a solution for this.

I agree, i hope they fix this soon toi. It would make the development of accessories much easier for all android phones. Seems like a no brainer but I guess Google has other priorities...

A feature request for Android 4.0 to enable USB audio:
http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=24614

Juvenall said:
A feature request for Android 4.0 to enable USB audio:
http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=24614
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just starred this, if the hardware is able to do that I find it completely stupid that they do not allow it.
Smartphones audio amps are not exactly famous for being top-quality so having this possibility would be great.

Thanks. The lack of this feature is ridiculous/mind-boggling/suprising.

Well, if you were waiting for the card dock to solve your problems... it doesn't. Plugging into the dock's "line out" gets you amp driven sound. I really do not understand why this is such an issue for Android. When I plug somoething into my 3 year old Nokia smartphone a window pops up for me to choose headphones, headset or line out. Why can't ICS offer the option and if in the car dock, default to line out? A USB solution is not going to help if you are using the car dock.

Juvenall said:
A feature request for Android 4.0 to enable USB audio:
http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=24614
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, most def. I want to use several USB dacs on hand. Off for some op amp rollin'.
Edit: The pogo pin dock has a 3.5mm analog/digital output, FYI

Oops

flacoff said:
Edit: The pogo pin dock has a 3.5mm analog/digital output, FYI
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which if I understand correctly uses Bluetooth to transmit compressed audio from the phone to the dock, then delivers it through the 3.5mm jack. Why not just have a digital signal go through the USB port!?

ali87 said:
Which if I understand correctly uses Bluetooth to transmit compressed audio from the phone to the dock, then delivers it through the 3.5mm jack. Why not just have a digital signal go through the USB port!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
actually the pogo pin transfers the digitial audio and the dock decodes it into analog to the 3.5mm output

Best 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter for my car

Can anyone recommend a good 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter for my car.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium

I got the scosche by adapter from walmart for $36. It plugs into the 3.5mm jack and works well for audio streaming. Calls not so much.
Dicho por el E4GT de Latinmaxima con Tapatalk.

All bluetooth adapters suck. I've tried 10+ different A2DP capable adapters over the course of 2 years and all simply ruin the high frequencies. Nothing beats hardwired Aux cable if you actually care about sound quality...

Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...

pojieps said:
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.

chrisnosleep said:
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually own it... I get WAY better quality over the bluetooth connection than I do with a direct line in. The headphone jack on your phone is designed for just that... headphones. Lining in directly reflects this. Wish there was a way for you to give it a try. I am kind of a sound snob, and I love mine. Plus, all you have to do is get in the car and once the bluetooth pairing happens, the app will open your music app and start playing.
Not trying to push this thing on ya. Just wanted you to know, I own one, and I am not "without knowledge"

Motorola Rokr T505 is small, does well with calls and music playing through blank FM stations to your car stereo. Best $40 investments plus NO CHORDS!

I had this one and used it with my EVO. Worked pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/Miccus-BluBridge-Mini-Jack-Bluetooth-Bluetooth-Enabled/dp/B0038MA11U

I tried an AUX cable on three different phones. There was always a high pitched whine through my speakers. I started using a Samsung HM3500 plugged into the same AUX jack and got better quality music with no whine. Plus, no extra cable running through my car to the dash mount.

Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?

You could get an FM modulator that would allow you to add a line in via your radio antenna, but they don't have great sound quality.

DutchDogg54 said:
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.

High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.

nerys71 said:
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all the time. My car had that problem and there were many other factors at fault.
Here are few things to look out for:
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded. If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit. Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
I had crappy stock headunit and weaka$$ stock amp that would always make the static and constant whine problems. Ended up completely redoing the car audio system. Now, even with the headunit not grounded audio quality is PERFECT.
Here are the prices for my audio remodeling, all items bought brand new:
- Sony MEX-BT3900U. Headunit with CD, Aux, Handsfree Phone, Bluetooth A2DP audio, USB ($140)
- Hifonics ZXi80.4. Amplifier with 4 channels, 80W RMS per channel ($134)
- Alpine SPS-600 speakers. 6.5" 2-way speakers, 80W RMS ($50 ea)
- Stinger Pro 3 Series Snake. 6-channel, 20 feet RCA snake that goes from headunit to the amp in the rear ($35)
- 2x22' 8AWG battery-to-amp power wire
- 2x18' 12AWG amp-to-headunit power wire
- 4x18' 16AWG amp-to-front speaker wires
- 4x2' 16AWG amp-to-rear speaker wires
- 30A fuse in the engine bay
I ran the power cables on the left side of the car and ran the RCA snake on the right. everything was exactly $525 and I did all work myself (it's quite easy if you ask). now the sound quality in my used-to-be-audio-hell car is dam near perfect now and has absolutely no noise/static at all. you can jack the volume up crazy high without any distortions for like 80Hz+. 80Hz and below can be a problem when maxing out the volume as the speakers are only 6.5" and weren't meant to deliver bass. don't get me wrong, they do make nice bass but just don't handle it too well when playing it very loud.
after years of running this setup I'd say this was one of the best investments i've ever made. my car is built for drifting so it is setup very stiff and shakes/jumps like crazy when dailying (300mi/week) and when i do take it out for a spin the amount of stress it sees it crazy. after all this time you'd think at least some wires would come loose but nope, everything is still running perfect.
so yeah, if you actually care about sound quality in your car and would like it to last, just redo it from scratch. it's fun and is totally worth it

Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Which is a power issue
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded.
Which is a power issue
If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
Which is a power issue
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit.
Which is a power issue
Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
Which is a power issue
See what I mean?
Cars make a lot of "NOISE" this noise is a power issue. it comes from your alternator and your coil and your spark plugs IE "POWER ISSUES"
if you have bad grounds or are lacking noise suppression (cheap equipment old equipment etc.. etc..) or an older car making a TON of extra noise etc.. etc..
Power inverters (especially cheap ones) are notorious for "dirty power" that lets in noise.
when I power my phone off the USB on the cheap inverter's USB port I get big time whine noises painful even.
use the USB port in the radio and I get no noise (but then it tries to "READ" the phone instead of just charging it and won't let me use aux hehe
Sometimes you can get a coil thing to add to power to reduce this noise but usually its just cheap equipment ($7 power inverter
plug a 110v to usb adapter into same inverter and no noise. The 110v adapter isolates and prevents the noise leakage.

nerys71 said:
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
haha time to clear up a misunderstanding here. my reply was referring to the "unplug your phone and it should go away" statement and thus assuming that you, by saying "its a power issue", were referring only to the inverter that was powering the phone at times getting a better quality inverter (aka, one that has capacitor or capacitor-pack to smooth out the voltage spikes and noise) is sufficient and at times it is not. I've experienced both. it's also worth mentioning that after redoing my sound system even the crappiest of crap inverters works just fine

frifox said:
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I've looked into those kind of replacements...plenty out there for reasonable prices but they would completely mar the aesthetic value of the nice interior of my Bonny. That's why I was saying that only the touchscreens that would fill the whole double (might be 1.5) din stereo spot in my car would do.
Thanks, both of you guys, for your responses...guess I'm stuck waiting till I get a much newer car

I'm not saying that you're wrong about it being a power issue, but the BT headset I mentioned came with an adapter for an AUX jack and that solved my problem. So, either solution works.

the issue is the radio is connected to the same "power source" that your "phone" is now connected to.
so if any component in that chain does not control the power noise (that is what the noise is coming from your power system)
you INJECT that noise into your audio stream the moment you "link" the devices together (power not audio)
this is why if you use a seperate battery pack to charge the phone you will not get this noise. your battery pack is "isolated" from the car's power system literally physically.
I am only talking about the typical whine pop crackle high pitched noise you get the moment you plug in your charger. IE clear no noise plug in chargers Head burster sounds start coming out of your speakers
that noise is a "power issue" you can't eliminate the power issues (except by eliminating your alternator??) but you can filter it. some devices (chargers) do this better than others
the BT unit works because you "broke" the chain. (no audio cable going from the PHONE to the RADIO)

Again, I'm not denying what you're saying. You're absolutely correct. However, OP was asking for the best BT unit to plug into the jack, not how to solve the issues with cables and power sources. I was simply providing my opinion and experience along the lines of what he was asking for.

Improved sound quality with fiio e6!

I bought a fiio e6 on amazon and sound quality has improved tremendously. Even with my a2dp receiver in my car, the improvement was great. Any other experience?

What kind of headphones are you using? i suspect that makes much more of a difference than the amp

I'm planning to get an E6 by the end of this month. Together with AKG K240 MK II. I will need the amp anyway, but it'll be good to know what ear-/headphones you are using.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA

Just tried my E6 on my i9100. Absolutely no change at all. Tried 5 different IEM's and 2 different headphones, they all sounded the same.

Maybe your E6 is broken!
I use it with akg K317 and in my car with a beewi bba100.

I've ordered an e5, which I should receive tomorrow, from what I've read the bass boost on the e5 is better than that of the e6.
I'll report back on any change on the sound quality, although don't expect anything in-depth, I'm no audiophile

without a proper lineout from the phone, the sound will either be same or worst in most cases. Because what youre doing is amplifying an amplified signal. So, if the amplified signal from the phone is bad, i'm pretty sure your external amplifier cant fix that.

You would need the Samsung official car dock for true line-out audio. Either that or make your own cable like the one here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=20710266&postcount=14
Maybe Bluetooth audio would also work, if you have a Bluetooth receiver with a decent DAC.

No matter what you use, it will not improve the overall sound of the device as it uses a cheap and crappy sound card. Any sort of amp including the Fiio E6 only brings EQ to the music, not to mention you actually lose sound quality because your using a jack to jack method unlike the iPod where they have special cables that connects directly into the DAC of the iPod because of the special provide cables which over-passes the direct headphone jack port. (Search up Fiio L9 Cable) Also when using the jack to jack cable that's provided with the Fiio E6 it lowers the loudness of the sound when connecting via phone to the amp.
Of course then there's the human ear, if you feel like it sounds great, good for you but in reality the sound is worse with EQ added to make you think it sounds great.
If your an audiophile you have to accept that the SGS2 isn't the best music device. Cowon for example or the SGP are good sounding music players. It's a waste of money to buy a Fiio E6 Amp unless your using an iPod to be honest cause it significantly improves the iPod devices.
That's my 2 cents, take it or leave it as you wish.

Blegh said:
without a proper lineout from the phone, the sound will either be same or worst in most cases. Because what youre doing is amplifying an amplified signal. So, if the amplified signal from the phone is bad, i'm pretty sure your external amplifier cant fix that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I noticed no change in sound quality with my e5. However it can make it a LOT louder, so if that's something you need, you might still want to consider getting one of these
Intercrew said:
unlike the iPod where they have special cables that connects directly into the DAC of the iPod because of the special provide cables which over-passes the direct headphone jack port. (Search up Fiio L9 Cable)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The galaxy s 2 does also have line out which bypasses the headphone jack (for example the samsung car dock does line-out over the micro usb port) but there doesn't seem to be anything available to buy to do this without the dock. However as claimui said you can make your own cable too

The $43 Galaxy S3 + Car Stereo Upgrade for WaaaY better sound quality! USB-DAC Audio

EDIT/UPDATE January 2013: The USB-DAC option is now working for AOSP based i9300 and North American phones!
Here is my thread on how to get it working for Liquidsmooth (cm10.1 clone) on my AT&T S3:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2116877
---------------------------------------------------------
EDIT/UPDATE 02/12/2013 --- This USB-DAC functionality also now works with the Xylon AOSP ROM after the JackNorris patch:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=37925178#post37925178
Also, LiquidSmooth thread is closed now due to the team breaking up. But a new thread will likely be opened soon as the ROM is still being developed by the new Liquid team.
---------------------------------------------------------
EDIT/UPDATE 2/28/13 for North American S3's (not sure about Euro S3):
CZ Eddie said:
For the 4.1.X AOSP ROM's, only LiquidSmooth and Xylon work. If you can find them anymore. All stock based/rooted ROM's work.
LiquidSmooth ROM never skips, it had flawless audio performance. But you lose the headphone jack on LiquidSmooth. And the 4.1.X Xylon ROM was a WIP ROM with various bugs.
The 4.1.2 LiquidSmooth ROM was fantastic. Never once had any cd-skipping type sounds. Sounded excellent and was a flawless, bug-free ROM. Perfect if you didn't need the headphone jack, which was the only issue. BUT, I can't find that ROM download anymore. I have a nandroid and if someone bugged the hell out of me, I might be talked into uploading it. But it was a nandroid from a dirty flash so I can't guarantee it will work perfectly.
Stock ROM's skip sometimes when initially connecting audio and also when taking calls or other events occur. Otherwise they work great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
---------------------------------------------------------
ORIGINAL THREAD TEXT BELOW:
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So, you're like me and you want to use your North American Galaxy S3 with your car stereo to stream Pandora, play MP3's and listen to your phones Navigation directions.
But, Bluetooth obviously sucks for so many reasons.
And the USB analog audio output has too many clicks/clacks and otherwise degraded sound.
So what do you do? You're an audiophile (or a wanna-be like me) and NEED better, cleaner sound!
Well, here is how you can get near audiophile quality sound from your GS3 to your car stereo.
1) Purchase an external USB DAC (digital to audio converter). This takes your phone's digital audio and cleanly converts it to analog audio for your car stereo to handle.
So why don't we just use the phone's internal DAC? Well, because it's a cheapy, crappy sounding Yamaha DAC. Samsung cheaped out on us! So we're using a BETTER DAC instead.
I bought the Behringer UCA202 USB DAC for just $30 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160904879602?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
2) Now you need to get the digital audio out of your phone and into the external DAC! And you also need to make sure your phone still charges! So I bought this USB-OTG cable that has a charging adapter. It's just $10 shipped:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160912100776?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
3) And then you need a dual-RCA to 3.5mm cable to get the analog audio from the DAC into the Car Stereo! I used one similar to this $3 shipped one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-FT-3-5mm-...=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2a134140b0
And so what are the results you ask?
HOLY MOLY!
Not only is the audio quality MUCH improved, but the sound is so CLEAN now. No clicks, burps, or any other weird background noises. Just straight CD quality background silence.
Even my GPS voice sounds prettier. hahah
Bass is tighter and deeper. Highs are more revealing. Everything is so much better that a novice could tell it sounds better.
And yes, GPS navigation works perfectly. If I'm listening to Pandora or an MP3 and my GPS needs to talk, then my music will go several db quieter and GPS will speak up, then afterwards the music will automatically go back to full volume.
UPDATE EDIT: Google Maps voice gets cut off when it starts talking, if I'm not already listening to music. When music is playing, then Google Maps voice talks perfect. But if nothing else is using sound, then I think Google Maps doesn't force its voice out enough and the first part gets cut off. This could have been a one-day deal or other issue. I need more time with it.
Also, one thing I hated about Bluetooth was everytime I turned my car off for just a minute, when I would power it back on the Bluetooth would not consistently reconnect. Well, this USB-OTG has been very consistent for me so far. Music just picks back up where it left off at and is fairly quick to do so.
Cons? Well, I haven't tested hands free calling yet. But I'm told it doesn't work with this USB-OTG to DAC configuration. Maybe there is a bluetooth solution for that. I dunno? And AOSP does not yet support DACs.
UPDATE EDIT: Bluetooth hands-free works perfectly when I'm using the USB-OTG to my DAC. I'll add pics & info below.
UPDATE EDIT: Once in awhile, my cheapy DAC gets weird sounding when I first start up music. Like a CD player skipping. I just stop and start the music again and it's fine. Or it quickly goes away on it's own. Doesn't happen very often though.
UPDATE #2 EDIT:*I flashed a new ROM today and everything has been 100% flawless so far. That last ROM had lots of weird issues.
Pros? Freakin everything.
Pics are below.
Here is the DAC and the USB-OTG cable:
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This is how you configure the DAC. You can probably also use the headphones output instead of the stereo RCA, but I didn't try it.
I wired up my USB-OTG cable to my iBOLT dock. It comes up through my dash defrost vents.
This is what the three connectors on the USB-OTG cable look like:
Here is the DAC being wired up. I taped up the non-used RCA's to prevent anything bugging with them.
I wrapped up the DAC with DUCT tape.
Hid it behind my dash.
Here is the USB-OTG cable with my iBOLT dock.
The car stereo w/audio cable attached. Some car stereos have the 3.5mm connector in the back. Or a dual-RCA input. I'd prefer one of those to have a cleaner install. Maybe someday I'll upgrade my car stereo.
And here is the finished product. My S3 docked, charging and outputing beautiful digital music!
LINKS:
How to make your own USB-OTG cable with power:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1828032
List of compatible DACs:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/1320#post_9038046
The official Galaxy S3 sound quality thread (TONS of info!!!):
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1633685&page=2
UPDATE EDIT:
Here is how you get Bluetooth hands-free calling working. I tested it today. Started listening to music via PowerAmp through the USB-OTG to DAC to my car stereo which was set to the AUX input. Then I accepted an incoming call. My car stereo automatically switched to Bluetooth input on it's own and I could hear/talk over bluetooth to the car stereo/speakers without any problem. After disconnecting the call, my car stereo automatically went back to AUX input and my USB-OTG/DAC music resumed playing nicely.
So here are the steps.
1) Connect your phone to your car stereo via Bluetooth.
2) Click the "settings" button next to your Bluetooth connection in the phone:
3) Put a checkmark in "Call Audio" and de-select "Media Audio".
4) When you accept a call on your phone, click the "headset" button and all audio will be played over your car speakers and your voice will be picked up by your hands-free microphone.
My next step is to figure out a way to get TASKER to automatically select "headset" when I'm in my car.
EDIT:
Here is my new dock and new cable solution. Just one single cable down under my dash.

Great post and very well put together but there a couple of things
1) doubt pandora is of audiophile quality
2) most people won't hear a difference since most don't have super expensive speakers in their car
3) the amp/dac you have has 2 ANALOG outputs (rca and headphone) and 1 digital output (Optical cable)....since you're using the analog output.... its been through an amp already.... then your stereo amps the signal again.... so technically you're amping an already amped signal. If you want to notice a difference use a line out/digital signal to ur stereo.
http://www.headstage.com/USB-DAC-Cable/USB-DAC-Cable-with-35mm-Mini-Plug-75cm-30::10134.html
would be the perfect solution..lineout.... small.... don't need to hide anything, and take it with you inside ur house and use it for the receiver at home also.
But if you want something with analog, lineout and portable.... i'd go with an E7 from Fiio... need to buy a 10 dollar adapter for the line out.... but for about 80 you can listen to it from ur s3 or computer straight to ur headphones via analog. use the line out adapter to hook it up to ur car stereo or home receiver. so best of both worlds.

If you're going to quote something, please don't quote a zillion pictures with it.
krash183 said:
1) doubt pandora is of audiophile quality
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Click to collapse
Absolutely it is not "audiophile" quality. But that doesn't mean it doesn't sound better with my current DAC configuration. Because it does sound better now. Though it's still limited by the lower bitrate/conversion Pandora offers us.
My 320kbps and FLAC MP3 collection sounds absolutely incredible though.
krash183 said:
2) most people won't hear a difference since most don't have super expensive speakers in their car
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Click to collapse
I have $60 Alpine speakers and it was a heck of a difference. I can only imagine how much better it'll get when I do eventually put high end separates in here.
My subwoofer is fairly high end though.
You don't need high end speakers to notice a cleaner sound.
krash183 said:
3) the amp/dac you have has 2 ANALOG outputs (rca and headphone) and 1 digital output (Optical cable)....since you're using the analog output.... its been through an amp already.... then your stereo amps the signal again.... so technically you're amping an already amped signal. If you want to notice a difference use a line out/digital signal to ur stereo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Huh?!? Nothing has been amplified before it hits my car stereo. My phone deliveres a digital signal to a converter, which convers the signal to a high end analog signal directly into my car stereo. This means neither the DAC in my phone or my car stereo is used.

CZ Eddie said:
Huh?!? Nothing has been amplified before it hits my car stereo. My phone deliveres a digital signal to a converter, which convers the signal to a high end analog signal directly into my car stereo. This means neither the DAC in my phone or my car stereo is used.
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Click to collapse
Not talking about the DAC... talking about the amp section. But I read the specs wrong on your link,
"The stereo headphone output features a dedicated level control and lets you listen to both the input and output."
I thought the level control was for the headphone and RCA out, but reading more the RCA is a lineout.

The E7 you mentioned is a very popular one indeed.
This one is on my "upgrade wishlist" if I ever get more serious. It's being compared with >$300 DAC's due to the chipset it uses.
edit: removed link due to report that this particular DAC may not be compatible with Android.
Here is a list of known working DAC's:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/1320#post_9038046

by using the rca to headphone cable it automatically is in analog therefore not digital at all and all those conversions and amplifications can and most likely causes some signal degradation...it's kind of a round about way to get cleaner sound when your using low bitrate streaming music...

CZ Eddie said:
The E7 you mentioned is a very popular one indeed.
This one is on my "upgrade wishlist" if I ever get more serious. It's being compared with >$300 DAC's due to the chipset it uses.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140847495065?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
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Click to collapse
96khz/24bit...wow thats impressive.... I'm using a old silverstone DAC with a burr brown connected to an old x-head amp, But it works well since it was only 10 bucks used haha. Want to get this and find a used objective amp.

killj0y said:
by using the rca to headphone cable it automatically is in analog therefore not digital at all and all those conversions and amplifications can and most likely causes some signal degradation...it's kind of a round about way to get cleaner sound when your using low bitrate streaming music...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, you may want to research the subject a little more.

Subscribed.. Great thread..
Does this provide a true line out, or is volume still controlled by the phone?
Also since there's clearly audiophiles here has anyone tried or heard of this?
http://www.gromaudio.com/store/usb_adapters/index.html
I have a Jetta and it would be great to be able to use my steering wheel controls to skip/replay tracks...
Again.. Great thread..

ddiehl said:
Does this provide a true line out, or is volume still controlled by the phone?
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Volume is controlled by the phone still.
Though the volume button on the DAC does also affect volume.
I set mine to full volume on the DAC. Forgot to mention that in my OP.
So my Car Home Ultra application automatically sets Android volume to max, and I end up using my car stereo's volume knob for everything.
ddiehl said:
Also since there's clearly audiophiles here has anyone tried or heard of this?
http://www.gromaudio.com/store/usb_adapters/index.html
I have a Jetta and it would be great to be able to use my steering wheel controls to skip/replay tracks...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, never looked into that. But there are lots of steering wheel control thingies developed for car stereos.
Something else I want to look into is this sucker. Infinity IMS:
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_browse/product_detail.asp?urlMaterialNumber=IMS

A DAC developed *specifically* for Android should be available in January.
It's kind of expensive though.
The AudioQuest Bumblebee:
Designed specifically for Android devices
24-bit ESS Sabre conversion chip
Supports all music files including 24-bit/192kHz lossless
Drives headphones directly with 3.5mm mini-jack output
Fixed or Variable output modes
Asynchronous transfer for accurate digital timing
64-position (computer-controlled) analog volume control
Isolated dual master clocks
Colour changing LED to indicate source sample rate
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.avland.co.uk/aasp/audioquest/1220/bumblebee/bumblebee.asp

CZ Eddie said:
Hmm, you may want to research the subject a little more.
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Click to collapse
I agree with killjoy. You are not getting the full benefits of your dac if it's just connected via aux in.
You will have to either use a usb or optical connection.
I was about to get a leckerton uha 6s mk ii, but I couldn't find a way to have hi fi connection with my car stereo.
And fwiw, I do connect my international sgs3 (Wolfson chip) with a denko cable interconnect tipped with neutrik plugs. Audio via neutron player. Very good. But definitely not hi fi.
Sent from a Galaxy far, far away

rab1412000 said:
I agree with killjoy.
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Click to collapse
So you also think that the DAC or phone is amplifying the signal? Because that's what he said.
It's a pre-amp DAC, guys.
rab1412000 said:
You are not getting the full benefits of your dac if it's just connected via aux in.
You will have to either use a usb or optical connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well that would be great if there were a plethora of car stereos with optical input, but there aren't.
This isn't an "audiophile" thread. This is a thread to help people get cleaner and better audio sound in their cars when using the S3 as a source.

CZ Eddie said:
So you also think that the DAC or phone is amplifying the signal? Because that's what he said.
It's a pre-amp DAC, guys.
Well that would be great if there were a plethora of car stereos with optical input, but there aren't.
This isn't an "audiophile" thread. This is a thread to help people get cleaner and better audio sound in their cars when using the S3 as a source.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Afaik all stand alone dacs have a pre amp or else you wouldn't hear music from it. However the better ones have specific connectors to bypass the internal amp to avoid double amping.
The reason I mentioned hi fi sound and the limitations of the aux in is to serve as a sort of warning to you and others. As you have the us sgs 3 (with the poor internal dac) and a cheap external, connecting via aux in is definitely a good option.
However getting a more expensive dac such as the Sabre equipped ones you mentioned MAY NOT improve your sq due to the limitations of the inter connection.
Sent from a Galaxy far, far away

rab1412000 said:
Afaik all stand alone dacs have a pre amp or else you wouldn't hear music from it. However the better ones have specific connectors to bypass the internal amp to avoid double amping.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is no freakin internal amp in this DAC. WTF.
How many times do I have to stress this point? LOL
rab1412000 said:
The reason I mentioned hi fi sound and the limitations of the aux in is to serve as a sort of warning to you and others. As you have the us sgs 3 (with the poor internal dac) and a cheap external, connecting via aux in is definitely a good option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We're not using AUX in on the DAC. We're using the digital input on the DAC. The DAC is then converting that digital signal to analog where it's being sent directly to my car stereo amps (via the car stereo).
The signal is going to be analog at some point, no matter what you have in your bag of tricks. I believe that even digital amplifiers have to convert the signal to analog at some point, though I could be wrong on that one.
rab1412000 said:
However getting a more expensive dac such as the Sabre equipped ones you mentioned MAY NOT improve your sq due to the limitations of the inter connection.
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Click to collapse
That is the craziest statement ever.
Yes, interconnection will always be somewhat of a limitation.
But processing can always be improved upon.

Nice writeup, it was an a-ha moment for me recently, that I should be using my Fiio E7 in the car. Haven't done anything about it like you have.
The next step is to take the digital out of the DAC and send it right to the digital input of a DSP, such as this:
That's what I'm talking about! Who needs a head unit?
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII

OSNPA said:
The next step is to take the digital out of the DAC and send it right to the digital input of a DSP, such as this:
That's what I'm talking about! Who needs a head unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whoahh. :good:
http://www.zapco.com/zapcoprocessors.html

Lol I wasn't talking about the aux in of the DAC but the aux in of the stereo, which is the weak link here.
The dsp unit above is the solution your looking for if you want true hi fi. You will never get it by connecting thru aux in of stereo is what I'm saying.
Also no need for insults or derogatory statements here mate. We are all trying to help each other. My comments, whether they agree with your opinions or not, should be taken constructively
Sent from a Galaxy far, far away

It's actually not a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). It doesn't have a Digital input, per their Website. The volume control is for monitoring the input and output so that wouldn't need a Amp. This is a USB audio interface for pc and macs.
The UCA202 allows you to connect instruments and other audio devices to your computer, effectively merging the analog and digital worlds. It accomplishes this by providing two analog mono Inputs and Outputs (for monitoring), USB connectivity and an additional S/PDIF optical output for direct analog-to-digital conversion. The stereo headphone output features a dedicated level control and lets you listen to both the input and output.
It has only analog inputs and a S/PDIF out that coverts analog to digital. So i'm sure what he's saying is that this unit takes the analog from the phone and cleans it up before it's delivered to analog input of Head Units...
http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/UCA202.aspx

CZ Eddie said:
Whoahh. :good:
http://www.zapco.com/zapcoprocessors.html
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Click to collapse
I've used that specific one, just not with the digital input. I am more experienced with audio than I am with android, pm me if want to do something drastic.:thumbup:
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII (AT&T)

USB C + 3.5mm Cable?

I bought this "3 in 1 USB C Aux Adapter" cable to use in my car but it doesn't seem to work right with my car for some reason.
When my Pixel 3 is plugged into the USB C side it only outputs the left channel
When my Pixel 3 is plugged into the 3.5mm w/ an adapter it only outputs the right channel
With my iPod Classic plugged into the 3.5mm side it seems to output both L and R channels
Anyone know of a similar type cable that definitely works with the Pixel 3? I don't really want to have to use an adapter.
::EDIT::
Well, slightly embarrassing but I actually wired up the aux cable incorrectly in my car. All is well and the cable works properly.

ramdyc said:
I bought this "3 in 1 USB C Aux Adapter" cable to use in my car but it doesn't seem to work right with my car for some reason.
When my Pixel 3 is plugged into the USB C side it only outputs the left channel
When my Pixel 3 is plugged into the 3.5mm w/ an adapter it only outputs the right channel
With my iPod Classic plugged into the 3.5mm side it seems to output both L and R channels
Anyone know of a similar type cable that definitely works with the Pixel 3? I don't really want to have to use an adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me preface...I'm definitely not an expert in the whole audio conversion area. I did start doing some light research a while back regarding USB-C --> 3.5mm adapters because I noticed that the dongle provided with the Pixel 3 caused sound quality issues with my 3.5mm Bose buds. I fly on airplanes a lot and noticed the sound output volume is significantly less with the dongle and 3.5mm headphones than using the USB-C Pixel buds. From what I've been able to gather is that the digital audio converter (DAC) chip built into most of these dongles is garbage or nonexistent.
Regarding the 2-in-1 adapter / chargers...I was also looking to buy something where I could listen to my 3.5mm buds and charge my phone at the same time BUT I stumbled across some article that basically said none of those work. If I remember correctly it had something to do with the phone itself, I think it was software related?? Maybe do some searching on this but I remember reading enough stuff where it sounded like a scammy product line so I didn't purchase. Maybe this has something to do with your L vs R channel issue??
Back to the regular dongle converter...you know how things are on Amazon sometimes, 3rd party vendors can be shady and say something is higher quality when it's really not which has made me hesitant to pull the trigger on a slightly more expensive dongle. That said, I finally purchased one today that is definitely a bit more expensive than others but it seems legit and I've found reviews in other forums referencing it. Here the link: https://www.adv-sound.com/products/accessport-lite (it can also be found on Amazon).
It should arrive in a few days so I can report back but I'm keeping my fingers crossed that audio output volume / quality isn't lost like it is with the standard dongle.

Alright, the Accessport-Lite (APL) converter arrived today. Here's what I think...regular 3.5mm headphones (I'm using Bose buds) into APL into device are definitely higher quality sound than using the converter that came in box with Pixel. You can hear more background noise, overall it's more crisp and max volume is a little bit louder, not as loud as I was hoping for however but an improvement that will make a difference when flying.
Another option...I picked up a 3.5mm splitter months ago so two people could listen at the same time. I noticed that 3.5mm headphones into splitter into Pixel box converter into device actually has higher max volume than simply headphones into Pixel box converter. Go figure. Splitters are really cheap at electronic stores. Although, I would recommend buying one from the audio equipment section as opposed to the phone section. They really upcharge you for the same exact thing that's supposed to be "specially made for a phone" which is garbage.
I also tried 3.5mm headphones into splitter into APL converter, sound quality wasn't noticably better than just APL. If anything some of the crispness seemed less.
Pixel Buds straight into device remain the loudest option. However, they do not cancel or shut out loud background noise like when flying so peak volume means nothing.
Long story short...I'm decently satisfied with the APL converter. Didn't blow me away but you can tell it's quality made and every but counts when trying to overcome loud airplane noise.

Carppopotamus said:
Maybe this has something to do with your L vs R channel issue??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, slightly embarrassing but I actually just had the aux cable in my car wired up incorrectly lol
Carppopotamus said:
Long story short...I'm decently satisfied with the APL converter. Didn't blow me away but you can tell it's quality made and every but counts when trying to overcome loud airplane noise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up on this adapter! Definitely good to know about. I've seen good things about the Apple adapter too but have also seen reports of it not working properly? Have you tried that one? At $9 it's definitely on the cheaper end.

ramdyc said:
Well, slightly embarrassing but I actually just had the aux cable in my car wired up incorrectly lol
Thanks for the heads up on this adapter! Definitely good to know about. I've seen good things about the Apple adapter too but have also seen reports of it not working properly? Have you tried that one? At $9 it's definitely on the cheaper end.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't tried the Apple one

ramdyc said:
Well, slightly embarrassing but I actually just had the aux cable in my car wired up incorrectly lol
Thanks for the heads up on this adapter! Definitely good to know about. I've seen good things about the Apple adapter too but have also seen reports of it not working properly? Have you tried that one? At $9 it's definitely on the cheaper end.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been using the Apple USB-C to 3.5mm adapter for half a year. I like it: the Google adapter was too loud on lowest volume, and had an issue with echo in calls when using earbuds with a mic (Shure SE215). The Apple fixes all these issues and is smaller and lighter.