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Im a long time lurker, and been following alot of posts... let me just say that you guys really are geniuses...this is day 2 of having my tmobile tp2.. and i been reading your forums since yesterday morning non stop....
If you have the time im interested in this...
1- i seen a post on speeding up the time your usb charges your tp2. But didnt see the cab or the reg edit string.. if there is one... is there?
2- info for adding items, or removing "call history" from home screen? maybe replacing with more comon things like messaging...
3- any way to constantly keep a stock listed in the tf stock tab? instead of always having tgo type in the same stock?
4- i just bought tt6 for an older phone...obviously it wont work with tp2. and i dont want to pay $ for a new program. i spent it all on teh phone..
does WVGAFIX3 work? or any other programs top change res before starting TT6?
5- with out downloading or running programs.. when on homescreen, "camera" and "allpeople" are always on the bottom green bar.. can i replace them with somethign more usefull?
seriously....you guys are awesome...
Would also like to know how to speed up USB charging. Think i read somewhere you get 1000mah per hour with the charger and 500mah with USB charging.
yeah, home charger that came with the device is rated on the make as 1A, or 1000mah... and i do know that usb is 500mah.. or .5a standard..
but when using my tp2 while connected to usb, it sometimes gets a pop up message saying charge supply insufficient...
perhaps cable doesnt fit well in the phone? either way, usb charging is very slow...
USB ports on a computer cannot output more then 500Mah. this has nothing to do with the phone.
the Wall charger can only output 1000Mah, again, this has nothing to do with the phone. just the way it is.
if you wanted to charge the battery faster you could get a battery charger for Rccars. you will not get the battery to charge faster through conventional means.
FYI, the fastest you can safely charge the battery in the Tp2 is 1500Mah. (1C) or you will risk damaging the battery and limited recharge cycles.
By any chance are you sharing the same USB port with other devices through a USB hub?
not sharing any other devices on the usb port....
what you say makes sense, and i wouldnt use a charger more then 1000mah... not worth the risk...
MAYBE its all relative since working with it in hand constantly and charging usb wise...
ill actually test mine tomorrow and time how ling it takes to charge usb from 0 to 100%
just a note : current is measured in Amps or milliamps (ma) , mah is milliamp hours and refers to battery capacity. Chargers output ma , not mah.
Getting the insufficient power popup when trying to charge via USB means the computer isn't giving out enough current to the USB. Try using different USB ports... i've known some USB ports are able to give more power on the same computer... depending on what header theyre plugged into on the PC motherboard.
Try to find an original HTC Universal (Imate JasJar etc.) charger. It is rated for 1500ma. I use it once a month for my Touch HD (a somewhat higher amperage recharge can condition a weak battery but it gets pretty hot....so beware!) and I am still using my HD (9 months old) like it is new.
Regards,
Gordo
Hi Loueber,
in regards to point 4 I have used WVGAFIX3 with TT6, it basically swaps you phone to lower resolution leaving a black bar at the bottom of the display. But it does then allow older QVGA apps such ass TT6 to be run.
Hope that helps
This program should take care of you: http://www.nuerom.com/BlogEngine/page/nuePowernueBattery.aspx
without that the USB hub will only power up to 500ma, with that it'll go up to 1000ma like it would off a wall charger.
Not from USB, the wall charger offers a slightly higher voltage, and from that the phone knows it can draw down a higher amperage. The Nuerom power driver will maximize the power you can draw from USB, but it still will not draw over 500ma from USB.
Even if split the four wires from the USB charge cable, and hook power wires up to a 5.1V 1000ma wall charger, and the data wires to your computer it will STILL only draw 500ma. The phone has multiple different safety mechanisms to prevent draw of over 500ma from a USB port.
In short, the only way to charge at faster then 500ma is from a wall charger. Unless somoene hacks the power drivers for the TP2/Rhodium in a way that contravenes the built in safety mechanisms.
I used a female to female usb adapter.. usb to mini-b adapter.. and finally a Y adapter that came with a cheap (10$) SATA-to-USB hard drive enclosure.. It allows the HD to pull max current and not operate in wimpy .5A mode. This is useful for 7200rpm 2.5 inch hds.. but I digress.. One end is data+power, another is power only.. Pull the data plug and the charging light remains constant.. That tells me the TP2 is utilizing power from both sources. The same works for pulling the power-only plug.. I'm tempted to hook up the data port to the wall adapter and test out that 1.5A someone mentioned earlier..
I'll try it out tonight..
btw: I'm currently looking for a program to show me the power input.. So far, tbattery isn't playing nice with my 1% battery driver.
Blades said:
btw: I'm currently looking for a program to show me the power input.. So far, tbattery isn't playing nice with my 1% battery driver.
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Doesn't the previously mentioned nuePower control panel app do it?
There is some misconception on this.
In the USB connector at the phone, there is a pin that if grounded tells the phone to charge at a max of 1 amp. If it is floated, it charges at a max of 500ma. If you go over 500ma, you risk damaging some laptop USB ports, thus the reason for the limit when using a USB cable. The supplied charger grounds that pin and goes up to 1 amp.
So it doesn't matter if you have a 5.1 volt supply, or a 4.9 volt supply, or 1 amp available or 20 amps available. It will charge at 1 amp, or 500 ma. max depending on the charge mode pin.
The pinout that I have calls it pin B. It is the pin next to the ground.
http://www.hardwarebook.info/ExtUSB
I don't recall where I got it, but I have an inline plug that I can insert in the USB plug that has a switch. Flip that switch, and the current goes up to 1 amp from the USB port.
Theres a program called batteryinfo.exe located in \Windows. Its pretty simple.. but it does show the info I need. It does create a log file in \.. Safe to delete whenever (assuming app is closed). So far, I haven't seen anything above 1 amp.. Theres discharge current (how much mA your device is using) and charge current. They usually add up to around 1A.
This NC pin.. if this were grounded by the HTC AC adapter, wouldn't the other end (USB) of the cable have 5 pins?
I have the htc AV connector.. I'm sure that has all the necesary wires in the jacket. I don't want to cut it up yet tho..
It would probably be better to cut up a 'dongle'. I would make an rj45 connector for each row of pins. Once you have some cat5/5e/6 cable to play with, the possibilities are endless..
Any more info on this nc pin?
Anyone else having this problem. When I have my TMOUS TP2 hooked up to USB I keep getting told it's not getting enough power to charge.
Interesting. Is the USB plugged into a USB hub or straight into a computer? I can charge mine via USB when its straight into the computer. I'll try with hub a second to see if there is a difference.
Edit-
No, I cant. When plugged into a 4-port USB hub, I also cannot charge. I'm using some generic nonsense hub, dunno if a higher quality one (or one that also plugs into the wall for juice) might make a difference
Yes!
Many laptops are not powerful enough to charge the TP2. Also many hubs will divide the power between the ports.
A standard USB port will give you about 1A and the above mentioned gives you typically less than 1/2A.
Putting TP2 in standby will help if on a weak port, but that makes no sense, cause then you can use the charger.
It's directly in to my PC.. weird.
I got the "not enough power" USB warning when plugged into my laptop...but not right away -- it had been plugged in for 30-60 minutes or so.
I have not received that warning when plugged into the USB port of a full-power-desktop PC, even when plugged in for hours.
I try to remember to bring the ac adapter that came with my TP2 when I'm going to be away from home for a while so I don't have to depend on USB-power from a computer.
I charged off a 0.5A power source (the most you'll get out of a standard USB port), but the device was turned off. Took about 3.5 hours to fully charge it.
Did you have anything like wifi, gps, etc turned on at the time?
how much power is left on the phone? IIRC, if its too low, your phone will not charge through USB & you need the AC adapter.
There are "powered" and "unpowered" USB ports. The "unpowered" ones just basically carry enough current to carry signals, but not actually power a device. The "powered" ones carry enough current to charge a device.
Many laptops are "unpowered" ports, although I think that trend is changing. Most desktops I would assume are "powered".
I personally only power my phone on one of two official chargers I have, although if I'm in the car I'll use a third party adaptor there.
I don't know if the TP2 is any different than the Tilt in regards to charging, but I'd assume very similar.... Perhaps I'll have the TP2 soon, I've finally gotten ATT to let me have an early upgrade but haven't found the actual phone yet.
I have a 5v 1A car charger. When in the car if I am using Pocket Player, and my GPS program at the same time I will get the message that:
"there is not enough current to properly charge the device. Please should shut down unneeded programs." or something like that...
And sure enough, my phone will die if left like this. It won't charge, even though it shows that it is... curious.
Could it be the cable is not allowing enough current? I am using an older cable in the car, as I have my TP2 supplied cable on my computer....I am going to try swapping these 2 cables tomorrow and see what happens.
I've had my Sprint TP2 for 12 days now and experienced this problem once. I was plugged directly to my PC via the USB port. I believe my battery was at about 30% so I disconnected it and used the travel charger for awhile and plugged it back into the PC USB port. So far that's the only time it's happened.
Might be the cable!
cameraddict said:
Could it be the cable is not allowing enough current? I am using an older cable in the car, as I have my TP2 supplied cable on my computer....I am going to try swapping these 2 cables tomorrow and see what happens.
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Hello,
I had exactly the same problem and found out it WAS the USB cable - the one used couldn't offer more than 300mA to the phone, even if connected to orriginal HTC AC adapter. After changing the cable, the 1A car charger gives the same mA as the AC adapter (checked with nuePower - http://www.nuerom.com/BlogEngine/page/nuePowernueBattery.aspx)
Radu
nradu:
Thanks for the info.. I haven't driven anywhere since I posted that! I will be in the next day or so... glad to know the answer is simple.
I too, just downloaded the NuePower program. Will be installing this as well. Did you by chance have the chainfire 1% battery cab installed? If so, did you unistall it first? Wondering if there will be a conflict between the 2.
cameraddict said:
Did you by chance have the chainfire 1% battery cab installed? If so, did you unistall it first? Wondering if there will be a conflict between the 2.
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Click to collapse
Hi,
Yes, I have chainfire's cab, I didn't uninstall it before installing NuePower (btw, I have tried once to uninstall it and after a soft reset, the 1% info was still there). the only bug I saw was when pressing the OK button in NuePower - sometimes phone hungs or runs very very slowly. Best is to use it only to test the cables and uninstall it. and don't press OK button, just minimize it with End Key or do a soft reset if handy.
Mine does the same thing lol
I get the same thing, i think they should make these devices use even more power.
Don't know if will help, but last night I was in my car using Live Search for GPS purposes. The battery was low on the phone, so I plugged it in. The phone told me that the source was not strong enough to charge the phone and to try shutting down some apps. I assumed that it was because the GPS was still active, although I really don't know because I didn't bother testing that theory, as I was just around the corner from my house. (No jokes about using the GPS to get home, please. )
Anyway, when I got home, I plugged into my laptop (which was running on AC power) using the cable that came with my XV6800. Note that the cable is always connected to my laptop via a cheap USB hub. I experienced no problems.
Sorry if this is a duplicate thread, I searched quite a bit for a solution but only found stuff for the TP, not the TP2.
Ok, so I know with the original TP you could charge it from a computer, but it was not as fast as a wall charger unless you had the fix that allowed it to charger faster on the computer.
Well on my TP2, it really won't charge the phone, and if I am using something like wifi router that uses a lot of power, it will actually lose power while charging off my computer...
Is there a fix to bypass this so I can have my phone plugged into my computer and charge it???
make sure in your battery settings the box that says "when device is turned on, do not charge the battery when connected to the PC" is unchecked. meaning an empty box. if its checked off, uncheck it. also, this might help, when plugged up to ur computer, cut ur backlight all the way down or low. the phone will use less battery that way and will charge faster when hooked up. either way though, charging thru a pc is trickle charging, meaning its gonna b slower than wall charger anyways. i havent came across the fix u mentioned for the TP.
trickle charging is when battery is fully charged and is still pluged on charger, then charging change to trickle power charge, around 20mA+actual request of the phone. this way if you have phone/any electronic in general on charger for a month, it's still kept fully charged.
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htc have two modes of charging slow 500mA and fast 1A (1000mA)
to say to the phone that charger is fast, you need to have one pin on mini-USB connected to ground. this pin is unused by mini-usb specifications but htc is using it for this trigger.
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cut open mini usb connector on usb to mini usb cable and wire the unused PIN to power ground (get pinouts pics or use multimeter!!!!! don't guess try it)
then you still facing another problem, USB is strictly specified to not exceed 500mA (with 10% toleration) no trick to get more then this from one usb. some computers are not so precise with rules though and could give slightly over 550mA
to get 1A you need to use two usb ports in parallel. like some china made usb harddrives enclosures
get an additional USB connector and add it to your cable.
NOTE: DON'T CONNECT DATA LINES ON THIS SECOND CONNECTOR!!!!!
data = inner 2 pins
power = outer 2 pins
* you can get an USB extension cable, wire 2 power lines out of it, connect to your usb - miniusb cable... this way you still can use the other usb for other device
NOTE: this is not a standard though accepted solution. I haven't saw or heard of any burned computers cos of this but wouldn't be surprised to see one.
anyway if I had that need, I would go for it
when making this cable, be very sure 5v wire is not touching data lines!!! Test it properly before plugging to PC! I have brand new laptop now, the old one is lying with DEAD usb host below table just because I believed there have to be protection against this. There IS NOT.
NOTE: NEVER LAUGH ON MY PAINTINGS!!
Or you can buy one for $4
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Othe...medium=shoppingengine&utm_campaign=googlebase
actually NOT.
without grounding the special pin on mini USB side of the cable, mobile would charge by 500mA no matter if you put 100A charger in. or paralleling 20 USBs
Wow...I'm pretty tech savy but that was a bit confusing...so I get the gist of that, but how is it that all it takes is plugging the usb chord into the htc ac power supply will fix that? why isn't it required for all that jazz of rewiring crap on the ac adapter as well, since it comes from the same usb chord...?
eh, have mercy with that english slang we are mostly not englishers here
What you meant was, why htc AC (wall) charger charges on hi power without those tricks?
Because the connection is already made there.
That's not a hidden trick anyway. Not even trick. It's a standart feature.
HTC is, not like other manufacturers, sticking to specs and mobile would not demand more then 500mA from standart usb connection.
usb is defined to be max 500mA
if you want a connector which is based on standart (htc's usb-hub can use usb cables), and you want a fast charging without violating standarts than this was the best resolution, to use pin which is generaly unused to trigger-detect 1A charger.
But as htc didn't made computer fast-charge cables. A serious company will not release such a cable. Connecting power from two usb hosts together - I feel pain by doing it, but it proved computer stabilizators don't mind it and though I don't think it's giving really double, it's giving more then 500mA.
But here you have to "imitate" original htc AC charger by shortwiring that trigger pin the way as it is there.
hope this was your question about.
Just final note in red when making this cable, be very sure 5v wire is not touching data lines!!! Test it properly before plugging to PC! I have brand new laptop now, the old one is lying with DEAD usb host below table just because I believed there have to be protection against this. There IS NOT.
I know this is mostly common knowledge but I still see many questions regarding this come up, so instead of explaining this over and over I can now link to this and flame away.
anyway...
When you charge your phone using an original HTC wall charger you phone gets all the power it needs to run itself and charge (up to 1000ma).
When you charge from any (most) other devices (this includes car chargers,non HTC wall chargers or any USB port) your phone will draw up to 500ma (the USB standard) REGARDLESS of the devices output.
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
The trouble is pretty much all equipment can safely output more than the USB standard of 500ma and safely charge your phone at full speed.
The phone distinguishes between an original HTC charger and other devices by whether or not the data wires are shorted (connected to each other).
How to do the charger mod.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for anything that may happen as a result of doing this, by following these instructions you will be pushing any device you charge your phone from beyond the USB specifications, results of this may be, but not limited to your motherboard bursting into flames, you car exploding, the inventor/s of USB knocking on your door and slapping you in the face, but most probably faster charging and not a lot else.
Get yourself a short USB extender wire, male at one end, female at the other.
Cut the wire in half.
Connect the red and black wires up as they were before (or don't cut them in step 1).
On the Female side of the wire connect the green and white wires together.
On the Male side of the wire simply leave the green and white wires connected to nothing.
Insulate the ends of all of the wires with insulating tape.
Tie a knot in the wire so if the wire is pulled the knot is pulled and not the connection you made, it doesn't look pretty but the wire will last a lifetime this way.
All done, now use this wire in between your desire and whatever you want to charge from and get a full speed charge. You will lose data connectivity when using this wire.
There are other ways of doing this, for example.
Soldering together the data pins (middle 2) on the device you wish to charge from. Don't do this on your laptop...this method is intended for car chargers, wall plugs, and external USB battery packs.
Soldering together a male and female USB port and plug directly with no wire in between, this can look really good if you know what your doing.
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
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Click to collapse
I have a 3rd party changer and I did this mod and it's working really great it's charging really fast
ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
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Click to collapse
The original charger shorts the data pins so it doesn't matter what cable you use.
Hi,
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
It charges not as fast as the AC charger, but MUCH faster, than the usual 500mah USB method.
And so does it look like:
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger2.jpg
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger1.jpg
TrTech said:
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
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Click to collapse
And next time, use your brain first, please.
Do you have an idea why the HTC Desire does limit the current to 500mA if it's not connected to a dedicated charger which shorts the two data pins? Ever thought about it? Ever?
Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.
TrTech said:
Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.
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Click to collapse
umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question:
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So in other words:
Any laptop or computer can output max. 500mA by USB specifications.
So this means:
You can have luck and your computer doesn't get damaged if more current gets requested, it just limits the current to something around 500mA.
You can have luck and your computer just shuts down the USB port and Windows reports you that a malfunction device got connected.
You can have bad luck, most often the case, especially on cheap notebooks, netbooks, computers, a fuse will prevent bigger damage and the USB port remains dead until the rest of it's computer live.
So the limit got wisely chosen. So if you want to use your USB ports in the future, too, then only use this 'trick' on wall adapters which support an output current equal or larger than 1A (1000mA), or use it only in combination with USB ports which support that high currents (most often advertised as being able to charge the Apple IPad), most often found on external USB hubs.
UpSpin said:
umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question
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Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.
TrTech said:
Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.
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Click to collapse
I was that 'unfriendly' because other people will do the same, because person xy said that it works. Then they fry their mainboard or notebook and complain.
I also don't understand why anyone risks damaging intentionally its computer or parts of it, especially if there's absolutely no need for it, e.g. just let it charge in USB mode, or take a small charger with you, or at least use two USB ports to separate the load.
But well, maybe some people don't have to take care of their computer.
This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.
I have yet to find a device that has been damaged doing this. I have personally tried this on a ps3, Xbox wii, 4 laptops 2 desktops, car radio,car charger and a sky+ box.
Kalavere said:
This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try this? I too have a Pebble and would be interested to know if I have just 30 minutes to plug it in, can I charge quicker.
Also, did the guys PC blow up? He said he would come back!?!? Maybe it did and he's in hospital still Dangerous things USB ports...
thanks for this ! I go to try this
MM i have an interesting one (which i still dont get)
i have a pebble charger
with OEM HTC Micro USB charger cable
and Pebble charger
plug phone into OEM micro USB charger to phone (phone says Power AC) yeh thats right
OEM Micro USB to computer (chargin USB)
So far so good
Pebble charger OEM USB to phone (chargin USB)
Pebble Cable charger to phone ( Power AC)
why are the OEM and Pebble charger cables different?
Sorry if i am posting in the wrong area but the topics seem pretty similar to me =P
to put my 2pence in, i've just done this but slightly different than the OP method..
i bought the belkin car charger, gives 1amp, but is detected as 'USB', not 'AC' charging mode, so my phone only charges upto 500ma which isnt enough (in reality it doesnt charge when i have GPS & max screen brightness).
instead of modding a USB cable (unable to use for data) or buying extra kit (money/ordering/going out) i pulled a strand of wire from a spare mains cable i had, threaded it through the 2 center pins on the belkin charger and then twisted the wire together.
USB cable is slightly tighter in the socket now, but still removable and keeps everything nice and tidy.... and more to the point; cheap!
poor shown from belkin; 'USB charger' mode in a car! like it would ever have data connection to the 12v socket.
hope that helps someone!
USB cable to quick-charge an HTC smartphone
Check http://winhlp.com/node/855 for some more details and photos of a USB cable modification.
Does this mod change the detection of car mode
Hi,
I have just started flashing a couple of roms and noticed that when using my desire with my car charger (1amp rated) it does not charge when doing navigation. looking on battery widget I get a max 289mw on car charge and it is showing as a USB charge. Flashed back to stock and now the car charger shows up as ac connected rather than USB. This does solve the discharging on navigation issue but I would like to run Gingerbread.
my question is...
Will this mod stop the Desire detecting and automatically entering car mode when it is plugged in? Anyone done it to their car charger?
Ta
Yes
The cable modification (shorting the data lines 2 and 3, instructions at http://winhlp.com/node/855 ) will switch any HTC smartphone into AC charging mode.
But I am totally stumped as to why you can achieve AC charging mode without this mod. I know of no other way the HTC phone could detect a car USB charger. I'm tempted to ask you to repeat the test.
If anybody here has any idea, please respond. To the best of my knowledge no USB device is allowed to pull more than 0.5 A from USB power, lest the power source switch off according to the USB specification. The only exception is that the device gets positive information that it is connected to a charger that can deliver a higher current, and for HTC devices that is signalled by a shortcut between the two data lines.
Thank you. I would rather not check again I did look for a while. Reverted back to stock for now.
It is a Huawei curly lead car charger with a 1a rating. The strangest thing is that with my stock Vodafone rom it detects as AC power on battery widget but on both leedroid and RCMix it shows up as a USB charge and I get the power issue. On all three roms it detects car mode correctly (Which is good!).
I was just wondering if the mod would also break the car mode detection?
I can't find anything on how car mode is detected!
Hi guys, I have this VERY STRANGE issue with my Gum Pro and my SGSII. If you don't know what I'm talking about the Gum Pro is basically a larger battery (4400 mAh) that you can use on the go to charge the battery of your device as it was charging with its own charger.
Ok..I always used it with any device I had. Cellphone, MP3 or whatever else neede to be charged when I wasn't home or hadn't any plug available....
Today I got the SGSII in exchange for my HTC Sensation and a while ago I neede to charge it while moving from one room to the other, so I connected it to the Gum Pro and.......nothing....I tried to unplug it and re-plug it in...nothing....I tried to plug it to its charger and it's working fine....I tried to plug it to my PC and again it's charging just fine....I also tried the Gum Pro with an old HTC I have for emergency and even the Gum Pro it's working fine...but if I connect the SGSII to it nothing happens: like it doesn't exist!!
Can anybody tell me WTF is happening??? I don't get it: both the devices work fine, but the can't get along....
Any electrical engineer or technician can give me any advice?? I can run as many test you need...but I really need to get it to work cause I'm often in a situation where the battery is dying and I need to charge it but I don't have any plug around me!!
i use something similar - new trent and it works fine.
Ok ...I searched over the net the product you suggested just to get some info and ran into these 2 usefull reviews which give some hints on the issue:
1-
"This product does not work out of the box with a Nokia N900 as, like many external battery packs, it does not conform to the USB dumb charger specification (the data pins of a USB dumb charger must be shorted before a compliant device will assume that it can draw current in excess of 500mA without causing damage).
Therefore, out of the box, this product does not work with the Nokia N900 or any device that complies with the USB dumb charger standards. This can be resolved by using a dedicated charge cable with the USB data pins shorted, such as the one available from Proporta, but it's a shame it didn't come with one, or with the pins properly shorted such that conventional USB data cables would also work.... [cut]"
2-
"The USB port is not wired correctly!
If you use a normal micro USB cable (rather than those horrible tip adaptors), your phone will only charge at 500mA - the rate of a 'data' USB port. My HTC Desire HD will show that it is connected to a 'USB Charger'.
The New Trent is wired incorrectly; To be a 'charge' port, pins 2 and 3 should be grounded. This tells the phone that it can pull 1000mA from the charger - the HTC Desire HD will say it is connected to an 'AC charger'. ie. it charges in half the time.
So check what cables you're using -- you might be taking twice as long to charge your phone than is neccessary!
2 ways around this - use the flimsy supplied cable and bulky tip adaptor, or use a cable that has itself been incorrectly wired like the one that comes with the genuine HTC car charger. (This cable has pins 2 and 3 grounded -- but remember that it should be the port that 'announces' whether it can deliver 500mA or 1000mA not the cable -- in theory if you used the HTC charger cable in a data USB port on your PC, you could blow the USB port because the phone will be 'told' it can pull 1000mA but the computer's USB port can only guarentee 500mA).....[cut]"
Ok..now would be really nice if anybody with some knowledge could tell us a work around when this situations come up: should I start researching a USB/MicroUSB cable JUST for charging purpose? I doubt I'll find anything similar on the net.... :-/ any other suggestion??
Nobody has any technical knowledge about this issue??
If you have a friend who might have electrical and elettronic knowledge could you please link him this thread??
Just get a cable and short d+ to d- inside the connector towards the phone, problem solved.
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... Ehm... I got the meaning of what you said just till "cable"... so.... I get a cable and do what??? sorry for my noobyness but I really can't guess what d+ and d- stand for and where should I apply this..
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Hi,
PsicheAlCubo said:
... Ehm... I got the meaning of what you said just till "cable"... so.... I get a cable and do what??? sorry for my noobyness but I really can't guess what d+ and d- stand for and where should I apply this..
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What he mean - if you look at a usb-connector, you could see 4 lines inside. The two outer ones, left and right, are used for 5v plus and minus, the two inner one's are data plus and minus!
To tell the phone that it can suck more than the usb-standard 500mv, the two data-lines have to be shortened! So the phone knows, that it isn't connected to a normal usb-port (pc, laptop or so) and it could get more than the normal 500mv from this port.
Sadly, this is a common problem with most after market power supplies and also with this external-battery-loaders like the mobile Gum - the data-lines are not shortened -> phone thinks, it's connected to a laptop or pc -> load'S with a max of 500mV!
If you're brave enough, you could try to manipulate the connector of the Mobile Gum Pro or a usb-cable to have the data-lines shortened out and your phone will load with the max. mv, whatever your phone accepts!
But if yoou manipulate the cable, be sure that you don't use it anymore for a normal usb-connection - doesn't know, if shortened data-lines will destroy anything, but surely it will not work anymore for transferring data!
i bought myself something like this too...V-Tank..have u tried unticking the usb debugging mode in settings>applications>Development?
Rofor said:
Hi,
What he mean - if you look at a usb-connector, you could see 4 lines inside. The two outer ones, left and right, are used for 5v plus and minus, the two inner one's are data plus and minus!
To tell the phone that it can suck more than the usb-standard 500mv, the two data-lines have to be shortened! So the phone knows, that it isn't connected to a normal usb-port (pc, laptop or so) and it could get more than the normal 500mv from this port.
Sadly, this is a common problem with most after market power supplies and also with this external-battery-loaders like the mobile Gum - the data-lines are not shortened -> phone thinks, it's connected to a laptop or pc -> load'S with a max of 500mV!
If you're brave enough, you could try to manipulate the connector of the Mobile Gum Pro or a usb-cable to have the data-lines shortened out and your phone will load with the max. mv, whatever your phone accepts!
But if yoou manipulate the cable, be sure that you don't use it anymore for a normal usb-connection - doesn't know, if shortened data-lines will destroy anything, but surely it will not work anymore for transferring data!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Allright, I could give it a shot, what I can't get about all this it's that the same cable didn't work if connected to the Gum Pro but worked flawlessly if connected to the car charger (the one you plug into the "lighter" hole)..!!
I mean, surely from the car charger it would have carried much more than 500mV ...so why with the Gum Pro it didn't work out??
zamha2157 said:
i bought myself something like this too...V-Tank..have u tried unticking the usb debugging mode in settings>applications>Development?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, already checked and it's not ticked!
It is really quite simple, the car USB charger obviously internally shorts d+ to d-, so will work with an ordinary USB cable and the phone will indicate "charging (AC)" in settings, about, status. you can achieve the same thing by modding the cable instead of internally in the charger or micro USB connector (with a standard USB cable).
I don't know what this debug suggestion had to do with charging, it had nothing to do with it.
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