Related
:?: I need a cable to connect to the phone antenna ports on the device - the port is smaller than the ones to be found on some mobiles (such as my old trusty Nokia 6310i) and I need to find out what type of connector is needed.
Does anyone know where a cable can be obtained or what type of connector is needed ?
I need a connector also
It took me weeks to find the special connector for my XDAII. Now I'm in the same boat for the Universal (JASJAR). I've been searching the net for a while to no avail, but hopefully I find one soon and let us know. :?
Sorry just too lazy to go through the manual so decided to ask the enlightened friends on this forum. I want to know if the antenna socket provided at the back of the Universal is for GSM signals. The GSM signal in my home room is too weak so I thought that attaching an external antenna would be beneficial to the strength of the GSM signal. But obviously even if it is so attaching an antenna would be possible only once we have found a suitable connector.
Kind Regards
I mounted an antenna outside my house
For the last 2 years (with my XDAII) I've used an antenna I ran through my outside brickwall and mounted outside my house. It helped the phone go from NO reception to a pretty good signal. I still have the cable running to my office/desk and all I need now is the connector. It has to be out there somewhere. I ended up buying my previous connector from http://digikey.com, but it ended up costing $30 ... but it was worth it. I'll do more digging today and see if I can find out more.
Oh and by the way, I was using GSM on my XDAII and the manual for the Universal says the connector (closest to the center or USB) is for GSM/GPRS.
Anyone find out what adapter fits the jasjar? My adapter for the pda2k does not fit.
I'm still looking
I've sent emails to PDAGold, HTC in Taiwan and i-Mate to not avail. I'm going to keep on looking. Obviously someone has to know.
Some progress - I've found out the connector type
The connector on the phone is a Amphenol MHC-H196.
I've posted a pdf with all the specifications of the connector on the circuit board ... http://wiki.xda-developers.com/uploads/MHCH196.pdf
Now it's just a matter of finding the correct adapter.
Well I gave up trying to find one and made my own
After spending many hours looking and getting an official "not available" from digikey.com (who I got my XDAII adapter from) and imate techsupport ... I decided to make my own. I haven't been able to test it with my Jasjar yet, though, since it's still being repaired at Topp Solutions in Miami.
I ended up using 26 gage solid wire (which is .4mm diameter) and a .062 inch (1.6mm) diameter female pin connector. This is smaller than the diameter of the connector on the phone, which is actually 1.82mm. Although, I expect it to expand slightly (permanently) when it's slid over the connector on the phone. Obviously, it's very crude for now. I just want to see if it works then I might make a prettier one. I included some pictures for fun. By the way this cost me about $9 in material (which I can use for other projects) vs. $35 for the last adapter I bought for my XDAII through Digikey.
From down under , land of long white cloud...
We have had the same issue ( product known as Jas jar)
My user name in this forum is Digs also, see our discussion :
REF: http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?ForumId=18&TopicId=7105
Did you see the interesting comments made by WilsonsElectronics. HTC really stuffed up with this one.
Is there any news on this matter.
At the moment I have sent an information pack to www.pasternack.com and I am currently waiting for a response. These people do customised products. See under technical support. I will keep you friends informed.
http://www.pasternack.com/ContactUs/ContactInformation.asp
I am after an adapter to get a signal booster... www.digitalantenna.com
I talked to them about three products. there email follows
Description Part Number List Price
60dB gain repeater system 4KSBR-50U $699.95
40dB gain repeater system 4KMR-30U $559.95
Direct Connect Amplifier DA4000 $299.95
DA4000:
The DA4000 amplifier must be purchased with an antenna and cell adapter cable and is a direct-connect system. The antenna is placed on the roof and connects to the inside amplifier which with the correct adapter would then connect to the cellular device. We have many adapters for different phones and air cards. If we do not have the adapter for your type of phone or air card the other option is a wireless repeater. However the direct-connect amplifier can provide higher performance because you are directly connected to it. Please use the link at the bottom of this email to download our 2006 on-line catalog. On page 28/29 is our Cell Adapter Cables which lists the adapters per make/model of cellular phone or PC card.
Description Part Number List Price
Direct Connect Amp. DA4000 $299.95
9dB cell antenna 288-PW $129.95
Cable 340-50NM $79.95
Adapter Cable pg 28/29 $19.95
4KSBR-50U:
The 4KSBR-50U system comes with an external antenna, 50' cable, amplifier/repeater, power supply and an internal antenna. So the external antenna can be installed on the roof with the cable going to the amplifier/repeater inside the house. The internal antenna is also plugged into the amplifier/repeater and is installed inside the house. There must be 40' separation and a wall/roof/bulkhead structure between inside and outside antennas.
With a good cellular signal outside the house the 4KSBR-50U system can reach as far as 40 feet from the internal antenna. Generally the SBR can penetrate 1 or 2 inside walls only and each wall will reduce the 40 feet coverage. Also keep in mind the weaker the outside signal the closer you will need to be to the inside antenna. The 4KSBR-50U system must have a signal that is at or greater than -90db to be able to amplify/repeat it.
4KMR-30U:
The 4KMR-30U, 40dB gain dual band cellular repeater system, comes with an external antenna, 30' cable, amplifier/repeater, power supply and an internal antenna. So the external antenna can be installed on the roof with the cable going to the amplifier/repeater inside the house. The internal antenna is also plugged into the amplifier/repeater and is installed inside the house. There must be 20' separation and a wall/roof/bulkhead structure between inside and outside antennas.
With a good cellular signal outside the house the 4KMR-30U system can reach as far as approximately 18 feet from the internal antenna but will not penetrate walls. Also keep in mind the weaker the outside signal the closer you will need to be to the inside antenna. The 4KMR-30U system must have a signal that is at or greater than -90db to be able to amplify/repeat it.
Try here for antennae and adaptors
I haven't checked this very far yet but the picture seems to match...
http://www.boatersphone.com/PDAs.asp[/url]
More detail...at : http://www.boatersphone.com/Adapters.asp
Its the Nokia 359914 Multi Manufacture Cell Phone adpater, You stick a velco thing on your phone next to the internal adapter, and slide the nokia adapter into it. This is NOT a direct plug in into the External GSM jack of the HTC Universal device ( ie Jas Jar ). But looks like our only safe option. Not sure how the velcro thing goes on the device, the Jas Jar has a plastic back ( over the battery )???
Works on these networks, the site says : 900MHz/1800MHz/1900MHz/2100MHz networks
..."This is an extremely effective new kind of adapter, it works on a similar rinciple to the clip-on adapter, with the exception that it is tuned to work on more frequencies. We have tested it on all UK frequencies including 3G, and we know it works on the American 1900MHz band as well! This adapter was originally designed to work on Nokias but we have successfully used it on other makes of phones, making this a (hopefully!) truly universal adapter. It will work on 'candy-bar' style phones which have an internal antenna.
This adapter is two-piece, one piece is a velcro pad which has sticky-back plastic on it, and sticks onto the back of the phone over the internal antenna. The second piece is the adapter itself, which has velcro over the inductive plate, so it can be easily removed, and has a lead so it can be connected to an external antenna. '...
Where did you get the Information that it's a velcro adaptor?
reading the Page it says:
Plug-In Adaptor for O2 XDA Exec
More details about plug-in adaptor in general:
This kind adapter is called a plug-in adapter, for the simple reason that what it does is plug straight into the port on the back of the phone, and provides a cable connection to the antenna.
The plug-in adapter is preferred to the clip-on adpter, as it works on any mobile network.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wrote them an email i'll keep you informed.
If you can get a plug in one then fine, but further down the page is where I get my info from. I highlighted in bold, just in case you cant see good.(Ha).
I'll bet the Jas Jar gets allocated the valcro one. As my experience is that its very difficult to find a plug one for the Jas Jar /O2 Exec.
Although I learly can read your bold text and being able to find this on on the page i really have no clue where you find the connection between the velco apdator and the O2 XDA Exec since it's marked with plug-in adaptor. Well we will see.
My apologies, yes "Plug-in Adapters", for "XDA, XDA II, XDA IIs, XDA Exec "..
BUT be carefull, the GSM external jack is very weak as per Wilson Electronic comments. Post me any confirmations of the plug in adapter working.
'Universal' adapters that apparently plug in
Their News page has a paragraph that describes a new adapter for various flavours of the Universal (although calling it Wizard to add to the confusion!) and warns against plugging in incompatible adapters. The adapters page lists the HTC devices under 'Plug-In' not 'Clip-on'. So that's why I posted.
I sent an Email after posting here, but it sounds like they are a small outfit so be patient!
Be careful with making adapters for transmitting antennae. For receiving antennae you can get away with almost anything, but for a transmitter a bad match on a connector will create reflections and emissions; it might even damage the transmitter (don't know if that's a problem here). If you don't see a clear increase on the reception bars with a well placed antenna, the adapter may be sending all the power straight back, doubling the voltage at the transmitter. Make sure everything is matched to 50R.
Nick (gave up my amateur radio license long ago since long hours in the loft didn't fit with married life!) :wink:
Reply from 'Boatersphone'
Can you do an adaptor from the obscure Amphenol MHCH196 socket on the HTC Universal Windows PDA phone? (XDA Exec, MDA Pro etc.). Presumably the other end is an FME f connector for the 'standard' phone antennas. Or alternatively the other end is a portable (non-mounted) antenna on 1800/2100MHz.
Many thanks
+++
Hello,
Yes we have an adapter to connect the HTC Universal to one of our antennae and you are correct about the FME F connection. We don't supply an adapter direct to an antennae, only in a two-part system via an FME connection, to allow for changing of either part.
If you require a portable antenna we have a 3G/Multiband antenna with a magnetic base (on 850/900/1800/1900/2100MHz frequencies) or we have a T-bar window antenna, which is 3G/Triband, although this doesn't produce as good results as the magnetic antenna.
Regards,
Arthur @ BPC
Any news? they don't seem to answer anymore. I wrote him two times. Anybody in contact with him?
Messing about in Boats
They advise to be patient, I bet we've flooded them with enquiries and they quote two days to reply!
Hello,
i want to connect external wifi antenna to S620 and i need some small help with that.
I dismantled the phone and removed shields from all ICs.
On picture 2 and 3 are Texas Instruments WiFi chips.
On picture 1 is other side of the board, with some metal piece and connector, which might be external wifi connector.
The connector is at opposite side in left bottom corner if you look at image 2, between PASS sticker and mounting hole, at the corner of large PCB ground pole.
Is that metal piece integrated antenna?
That connector is probably not U.FL.
Anyone know what type of connector is that?
Thanks.
Not sure but follow the link below for the service manual, it may give you some insight:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=402998&highlight=service+manual
if you managed tu connect it, let us know everything...
hope you can do it succesfully!!!
Ok, so i looked at the service manual, the connector is diagnostic (RF measurement) type, with switch.
MM8430-2600RA1
Probably will be in all HTC devices. So i will try to search on the forum, if anybody done this on different phone.
See page 9 and 10 for switch schematics and pinout
http://www.murata.com/catalog/o30e8.pdf
There are "probe" cables for it, but the probe connector is too big to hide under the cover.
I have a friend with experience with SMD, so i asked him if he can desolder it and solder pigtail with RSMA.
Cable can be taken out of the phone by using free space around hole which covers the GSM antenna connector.
I verified that by putting the cable in and closing the phone.
I also tried to hold stripped cable on the connector, with attached directional antenna and i picked up the APs in that direction, so it is working. (and really well)
The problem is that ground poles of the connector maybe connects ground to the power button, so after desoldering, it might not be possible to turn it on...
The safe way can be removing that piece of metal (yes, it is wifi antenna) and solder pigtail instead of it.
It should be simple, because under it are only two "paths" in PCB.
However, the best way is probably to solder it on opposite side, there is a PCB path from Wifi chips, going through the PCB, ending on middle pin of the connector.
But that cannot be done, because there is no way how to get the cable out of the phone.
I still prefer desoldering the connector, because it is placed "before" the antenna, so connecting it there would give a bit better results.
Edit: i searched the forum a bit, but all i found is service manual for Diamond, which seems to have U.FL connector. But i will not buy it because of that, only maybe when it will cost 80 USD like S620.
I acquired a broken touchscreen Tilt2 and repaired. All worked well until attempting Wi-Fi - signal very very poor Only a 1-2 bars in same room as router and almost nothing between walls. The wifi antenna is located on the cover below the keyboard. You need to take the four small torx screws out and use a non-marring pry tool to lift cover off (better directions elsewhere). There are two tabs that contact PCB - they were not making contact at all. There is a little slot in the case next to the USB connector .... looks like on mine someone else may have inserted something in the this slot (maybe the micro SD card?). I replaced the screen without full case assembly, the rear cover void stickers were still intact so I know it didn't happen from my or another's dis-assembly. I bent the tabs (carefully as I read they break easy) reassembled and now get excellent reception FYI under the top speaker assembly is two other antennas for Cell Radio and GPS with the same type contacts if having problems with either of those. Hope this helps out someone, saw a lot of similar wi-fi problems in the posts but not much on location/repair of antenna. Good Luck!
Hey guys, just got my DInc2 Monday and found that the signal strength was no better than the Eris I had before it. The problem with the eris was that there was nowhere to connect an external antenna. After messing around with my new DInc2, and reading this forum, I found that by using the antenna that I bought for my eris: http://www.amazon.com/Wilson-Electronics-Trucker-Mirror-Antenna/dp/B001DTZ25A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323615483&sr=8-1
and the passive antenna adapter
http://3gstore.com/product/1691_passive_antenna_adapter.html
that I never could get to work to boost my eris' signal, I was able to DRAMATICALLY increase my signal and data speeds!!!
I have the antenna pointed in the general area of my closest tower.
I cut the end off the adapter, and stripped the wire. I then slid the wire into the antenna contact on the PHONE SIDE...not the cover. I went from 2 bars of signal and an average of -95dbi without the antenna, to a STEADY 3 bars and an average of -86dbi with the antenna. The back cover has to be off for this to work, so it's only a fix if you are at home, or somewhere stable where you can just connect it and set the phone on a table somewhere.
If anybody knows where I can pick up some kind of small alligator clip or ANYTHING that would allow me to more permanently attach the antenna while I'm at home, I'd love to hear it. I think if I had a better connection between the phone and the antenna, the signal would be that much better.
Here are the speedtests I took this morning. The first three are without the antenna, and the 2nd three are with the antenna
Antenna fix
You could get a spare back and drill into the area where the connections are and solder the wire to the contacts on the back.
Try it with the stock antenna intact. If the signal is not better, interupt the trace of copper for the stock antenna.
Enjoy...
Poking around in the back of my phone, I pulled off a tiny rubber cover located just above the SD card slot. Just underneath is what appears to be an antenna port. I have a Wilson antenna that I used with an old flip phone from back in the day, but the adapter I had did not fit. I ordered this one off of E-bay: Wilson 359909 Antenna Adapter LG, Motorola, Samsung,HTC (160641678739) - even though it did not explicitly state it would work on the Dinc2. In the meantime I spliced off the end of the adapter I already had and put the exposed wire in the antenna port. I noted an immediate increase of signal strength of -5dbm. Unfortunately, the ebay adapter arrived and it also does not fit. I think if we could find the right size adapter, we could drilll a hole in the back of the cover and it should seat nicely. Anyone have any thoughts?
I see that port. I didn't get any signal at all when I put my wire into it though. Anybody know what this port is for if not for an antenna? I find it hard to believe that nobody has noticed this before.
I find it hard to believe that nobody has noticed this before.
I agree. Maybe wishful thinking got the best of me!
I just hope there's something to this!
I shoulda thought more before posting. There is no doubt in my mind that I got a signal increase with the external antenna as compared to the last signal reading prior to taking off the cover (and having no signal at all).
Question is - could I have inadvertently touched something else in addition to that port?
At work till tomorrow afternoon and will retest then.
It IS an antenna port
I have attached pictures of the "setup", and a screen shot displaying my dbm's with the cover off and the antenna attached. Cover on signal status was -96 dBm and with the antenna attached it was -87 dBm.
Hopefully this will get someone a lot smarter than me interested in figuring out what kind of adapter would work on this port.
Thanks in advance for any and all feedback!
View attachment IMG_20111215_105537.bmp View attachment 2011-12-15_11-06-09_540.bmp View attachment 2011-12-15_11-07-26_527.bmp View attachment screenshot-1323982757531.bmp
Umm i get 2meg download speed with no app and the back on. Remember the phones internal antennal is actually the back door of the phone. Did you do those first speed tests with the back on? Try flashing a new radio. The newest one ending in .1111 is great!
Sent from my Incredible 2 using XDA App
Thanks for the advice! I flashed the .1111 radio a couple days ago and have noticed that the dead spots on my 1.5 hour drive to work have gotten shorter and my average dl speeds have increased from an average of .5 Mbps to about 1.2 Mbps
My hope is that with the right adapter, I could plug in an external antenna (pictured in my previous post) and cause those dead spots to disappear all together.
By taking the back cover off and plugging the bare wire of the adapter into the port directly above the SIM card slot, I get better reception than I had with the back cover on. Problem is, it's a very precarious connection. I think if I could find an adapter that actually fit in that port, I could drill a hole in the back of the cover and plug and unplug as needed.
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
http://www.witrigs.com/media/catalo...a71cb48e3d52cb890e76f9e6353/1/0/109063-01.jpg
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
bookfast said:
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
http://www.witrigs.com/media/catalo...a71cb48e3d52cb890e76f9e6353/1/0/109063-01.jpg
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there. Interesting to know that you replaced it all your self . Did you put everything back perfectly ? I mean the display being aligned properly to the body, the speaker grills being flushed with the body; ? Weird to ask, but did you damage anything while doing it all yourself ? Like the screen scratches, or something else ? Sorry, for asking these... Thanks in advance :good:
Tej XFire said:
Hey there. Interesting to know that you replaced it all your self . Did you put everything back perfectly ? I mean the display being aligned properly to the body, the speaker grills being flushed with the body; ? Weird to ask, but did you damage anything while doing it all yourself ? Like the screen scratches, or something else ? Sorry, for asking these... Thanks in advance :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't re-glued the speaker covers back on yet so I dont know if they will be perfectly flush or not, although they still look flat so I think it will look good.
The only damage is a slight bend in the frame on the screen side of the sim tray slot. The metal is thin, and I pried against it to get the hardware out of the frame. That is why I recommended to start from the bottom when separating the two. Doing this should allow others to avoid this problem. It is slight, maybe 1/4mm gap where it used to be flush along the side of the screen above the sim tray.
Otherwise everything was smooth. The screen/frame etc are still mint.
bookfast said:
I haven't re-glued the speaker covers back on yet so I dont know if they will be perfectly flush or not, although they still look flat so I think it will look good.
The only damage is a slight bend in the frame on the screen side of the sim tray slot. The metal is thin, and I pried against it to get the hardware out of the frame. That is why I recommended to start from the bottom when separating the two. Doing this should allow others to avoid this problem. It is slight, maybe 1/4mm gap where it used to be flush along the side of the screen above the sim tray.
Otherwise everything was smooth. The screen/frame etc are still mint.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, you've done it like a pro then. :good: .Any picture describing the damage would be helpful, if you can provide. Is the display mint ? No scuffs/scratches on it ? But, my speaker grills were damaged onto the edges after the repair was carried out. Does yours show the same sign ? I don't mean the flatness of the grills, but the damage that should be done, while prying out the grills. A picture showing your damage would be helpful to me. I could do the same, if you insist. Thanks ! :good:
Mine is busted. But I cannot find the PCB. The link in the op is dead.
Any ideas?
http://www.witrigs.com/oem-charging-port-flex-for-htc-one-m8
bookfast said:
http://www.witrigs.com/oem-charging-port-flex-for-htc-one-m8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually got one off eBay for $17.21. Works perfectly.
Just wondering....
Sounds like you were able to avoid some steps in the teardown guide, if I recall it was damn near a total disassemble. Do you have a lot of experience with phones? I want to fix mine, but don't need a tedious project right now. If I repair mine I'd like to put a mini USB in place of the micro if possible, I've seen too many damaged micro usb to trust or like them. As for the speaker grills, if you're picky buy replacements, they're cheap.
microphone on charging port?
bookfast said:
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
link
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My HTC M8's main call microphone has stopped working, and through searches on Google it seems that perhaps that this mic (first mic, non-speakerphone mic) is built into the charging port. Is this the case? I cannot find anything that explicitly says this, and I'd love to get the phone back in working condition.
dm8233 said:
My HTC M8's main call microphone has stopped working, and through searches on Google it seems that perhaps that this mic (first mic, non-speakerphone mic) is built into the charging port. Is this the case? I cannot find anything that explicitly says this, and I'd love to get the phone back in working condition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too am also curious if the mic is on the usb part because my mic doesnt wrk when i make calls.
Will replacing the usb port fix the problem?
Harvey02 said:
I too am also curious if the mic is on the usb part because my mic doesnt wrk when i make calls.
Will replacing the usb port fix the problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I called HTC, the mic is on the USB port, although you should make sure that it's not a software issue first. There are several threads on the internet easily found through Google which discuss doing a factory reset to resolve this if it turns out to be a software problem.
Thanks for your reply. I did a factory reset when I got the phone but it still doesn't work. Does that mean it's not a software problem and that if I replace the usb it should work?
Harvey02 said:
Thanks for your reply. I did a factory reset when I got the phone but it still doesn't work. Does that mean it's not a software problem and that if I replace the usb it should work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would think so, yes.
Thanks! Do you know of any online source confirming that?
Harvey02 said:
Thanks! Do you know of any online source confirming that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, but from what I've studied about it, it should work. Feel free to contact HTC, they actually have a live chat available somewhere on their website. Good luck to you.
Very interesting, I contacted htc and we went through diagnostics together and the rep said that I have to send it in. I asked him if the mic was on the usb assembly and he said that it wasn't and rather it was on the motherboard, and I clarified that we were talking about the primary mic which is located near the usb port. Confusing bec everywhere I saw online said that the mic is on the usb assembly. Go figure!
Harvey02 said:
Very interesting, I contacted htc and we went through diagnostics together and the rep said that I have to send it in. I asked him if the mic was on the usb assembly and he said that it wasn't and rather it was on the motherboard, and I clarified that we were talking about the primary mic which is located near the usb port. Confusing bec everywhere I saw online said that the mic is on the usb assembly. Go figure!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you end up doing? Did you discover if it was on the motherboard or the part with the USB port? I've waited a while to repair mine for other reasons, and I am now prepared to fix it. Any information would be helpful.
Just a few notes on my own experience.
I replaced the screen in my friend's M8 a few months ago. Seemed like everything went ok, except after I got done, the mic didn't work anymore. This is strange because it worked fine before, and all I did was remove/replace the circuit board in the process (yes, the small one at the bottom with the uUSB port). However, the upper rear microphone was still working I believe, because people on the other end of the line could still hear if the phone was put into speakerphone mode. I don't know why it would stop working all of a sudden.... Ran the HTC audio test using *#*#3424*#* to confirm main mic wasn't working and that the aux rear mic was.
Fast forward to this week, with my own M8. The uUSB connector was going bad, and I was having trouble charging, so I figured it was time to replace that circuit board. Ordered a new one and replaced, but when I got it back together, the USB port was fine of course, but my mic wasn't working now, just like my friends! On top of that, the headphone jack didn't work at all. Most likely the "cable inserted" signal wasn't getting back up to the motherboard, but didn't check. So pissed off. Also, the new board I got didn't have the bottom left RF connector/circuitry populated. Thinking from research that it might be for the GPS? I should have tested when the board was in there, but didn't. Fixed a bad solder joint on the original board's uUSB connector, which helped, but still charging is a bit messed up. I'd rather have a working mic and headphone jack and have to play with the cable to get to charge for a while until I get another board (from another supplier, jerks).
Yes, the mic is the small chip on the very left side of the board. It has a hole underneath the chip, going through the board and to the front face to receive the acoustics.
I don't know why the mic not working is so common after an HTC One M8 tear down, as it seems many others are having the same issue. One theory I have is that pulling the circuit board from the motherboard while power is still applied (not unplugging the battery first) might be jacking the microphone somehow. Just a theory, but I'd recommend to be safe that anyone replacing the board should unplug the battery cable before replacing the USB/mic circuit board.
I'd just like to chime in to say that I've read about some people having problems with the mic not working after replacing the USB board. From what I understand, there are two different versions of it, and replacing it with the wrong one can cause that very issue. You should look into it.
EDIT: Source - http://www.witrigs.com/blog/htc-one-m8-audio-jack-not-work-after-charging-board-replacement/
Mic broken after USB repair
Old thread but I have the same problem. Replaced USB board and now my mic does not work. However I am pretty certain I did order the correct board (had 2x connectors for my Verizon HTC m8). And my microphone jack work great which others indicate is often broken along with the mic. Anyone have any workarounds?