Related
I am attempting to house an i-mate PDA2 in a custom enclosure (for a product that we make). I want to modify the 22 pin connector on the sync/power cable but I cannot find a pinout.
I need a picture or diagram of the 3, or is it 4, rows of pins with pin numbers, pin function and connector wiring (jumpers, etc.)
Anyone know where I might find this?
Before you get crushed by the "rtfm" type posts, I humbly direct your attention to the "connectors" link on the front page of this site, which will lead you to: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/wiki/Connectors. It's an extremely useful page!
OK, I told you so now you tell me; what're you guys making?!
I did check out the "connectors" page and it is helpful.
However, what I am looking for are details of the inside of the cable connector. I took one of these connectors apart and it's not the easiest thing in the world to figure out which pin goes to which on the PDA side or what the number system is.
So, it would be very helpful to know if someone has already gone through the unravelling.
In a nutshell, our company has developed a technology that uses ultrasonics to measure load in bolts both during and after tightening. The PDA is the platform for the controller of the tightening and inspection tools.
Sorry, I assumed that you'd not looked at the connectors page because I used it to figure out (I think) what it is you're after when I was trying to make my own sync/charge/gps connector.
If this is something that you can't resolve with a multimeter, then I guess you must be looking at an interesting connector! I'd suggest posting a couple of pics of the connector with it's top off lined up with the phone's socket. That'll make it easier to figure out what's what!
The load detector sounds cool, I'd love to see a screenshot if you've got one.
Yes, it can be resolved with a multimeter - I was just looking for the lazy way out!
I have attached a photo of the prototype unit - not the most professional representation, but a decent one nonetheless.
That looks cool! I love it when people *really* use these things.
If you open the connector up and see 2 (staggered) rows of tiny, really hard to solder :lol: pins, pin 1 (left side of the phone connector if you hold it bottom towards you, screen up) is the bottom left pin.
_| | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | | |_
^ bottom left is pin 1. Hope this helps, sorry I had to bath the baby earlier and was typing whilst holding a somewhat sticky little girl
Thank you!
Subject: PDA2 sync/power cable connector pinout
On this thread, I was thinking of using the desktop cradle as the base for a mobile mount.
But the pin-outs for the PDA2k are not easily found.
The connector link now appears to be at:
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
This page seems only to refer to the Wallaby and the Himalaya.
Is there a specific page for the PDA2k or does anyone know if the pin-outs of the 22 pin connector are the same for the Wallaby/Himalaya as they are for the PDA2k?
-I found elsewhere that Pin 19 was different.
Are there any other differences?
Also somewhere amongst the threads there was a mention of the pin-outs of the 2.5mm audio out /mic in was different or was it the switch on the hands free headset?
I have trawlled the site and it has eluded me so far for a consiolidated posting on the connectors for the PDA2k.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Perhaps I am just deluding myself
Thanks in advance
If you lost your marbles, would you know where to find them?
harrier mounts and connectors
I wouldn't use the desk cradle to make a car mount. IMO the car mount from Clicon (www.clicon.com.au) is better mechanically than the desk cradle, and already suited to vehicle mounting
There are a number of variants of their kits, but not many that suit my pda2k-evdo. The ones that do suit are:
- plain cradle with no connectors, but leaving the pda2k connector exposed and accessible
- plain cradle with "passthrough" connector - so connect your own charger etc to the bottom of it. Note that this passthrough doesn't support the two lugs that some pda2k plugs have (eg the charging dongle that came with the pda2k-evdo)
- cradle with lighter-socket charger. The charger part is actually removeable; they've just screwed the car charger to the cradle.
The lighter-socket charger mentioned above has a small board inside the connector with Tx and Rx holes labelled. It looks like it was designed for making a serial+charge adaptor.
I have a separate RS232+charger adaptor cable ("suits XDA IIs") which looks like it's charging, but really just keeps the screen on and runs down the battery quicker. It turns out it only has one V+ and one Gnd pin connected, as opposed to 3 of each listed on the Connector page on this site. Makes me wonder whether the 3 pins for V+ actually all have the same function. Time to mod the connector...
Gregnash,
I agree with your summary,
and I have looked at the available in car cradles/holders.
I have already ported a XDA1 cradel with audio/mic,USB and power to see if the connections can be done successfully.
All worked except for the mic as I need to find a 4 polo 2.5mm panel socket so that it switches on hook.(this I assume is pin 19)
You are right, by itself the Harrier cradle does not securely hold the pda in place as there is lateral movement.
What I am trying to achieve is a "all in one" in car cradle/holder.
I have sucessfully mounted a NOKIA passive anennae connector to a stand alone generic brand pda holder.
This as you said allows the connector to be exposed for charging.
I have used this method with a 9db external (old analogue antenna-funny that, you can use them for CDMA) antenna or a 9 db through glass antenna.
Currently the system is clumsy as also I run a bluetooth external GPS and route the audio from the 2.5mm socket to the cassette player adapter.
-(no audio IN in this car radio)
What I was hoping to do was to incorporate the Nokia Passive antenna coupler at the rear of the Harrier cradle which would put slight pressure in the forwards direction to both make an antenna connection and more secure and stop the Harrier from moving.
(Another flash idea is to strip the inductance plate from the coupler and mount a antenna cable socket on the coupler face so that it aligns with the antenna out from the Harrier)
With the audio out /mic in and charge through this connector , I am hoping to eliminate all of the wiring as I can conceal the wiring back inside the dash.
The only other thing is the on hook switch for receiving calls.
As you can probably guess I probably have too much spare time.
Perhaps Bluetooth In car kit will by-pass the need for the physical connectors as it is software driven.
But I have heard of so many bad reports of BT connecting to the phone that it appears to be pot luck if I find one that works.
What about this arrangement:
1. Harrier cradle -with antenna coupler if secure,
2. bluetooth in car (cigarette lighter style) hands free-Blue Ant etc,
3. audio out from cradle to radio ( for GPS instructions and playing mp3 from Harrier) freq transmitter(powered externally).
4. bluetooth GPS external antenna
mmmm..... maybe a bit of an ask but it does allow a "drop on cradle ,push forwards to engage antenna and forget" action.
Maybe I am off with the fairies, what do you think?
Any comments would be appreciated.
For antenna supplies you can try this site http://www.wpsantennas.com/ basically I think it would boost reception back to 3 watts. 3 watts is the same wattage as the old car mounted mobile phones. Mobile phones operate on 0.5 watts. No wonder our reception sucks in so many places.
Hook the antenna into a car cradle and some type of handsfreee switch for the radio, and you have a very powerful, very mobile 3 watt mobile phone with great reception.. if you got carried away you could even connect your car to the ppc and moniter engine, fuel, etc. Plus a GPS.. and oh the possibilties are endless.
Johnno's ambitious car kit
Yeah, I think you do have too much time on your hands
Sounds like a plan, though, and I'd like to know if you make it all work. The antenna couplers I've seen take a bit too much force for a "drop in, push back" arrangement, but one designed for a different phone may do the trick if it fits.
btw, my interest in serial is for wired GPS and to talk to the engine management computer (not at the same time, or one will have to be bluetooth). Even better if they can be powered from the same cable.
dougnet
Thanks for the link.
I actually had thought of this proposal.
I actually contacted tht crowd (amongst others) about two months ago as I was thinking the same as you.
They answered that they are not allowed to export GSM or CDMA amplifiers to Australia.
I think it might be that new "Free Trade Agreement and respecting our telcos" we now have with the US where things are not really "FREE".
Probabably if I asked 12 months ago it might not have been a problem.
Nice products.
Trouble with Antenna couplers , is that you lose at least 1.2db + in the cconnection.
You you really need a grunty antenna or output.
".. if you got carried away you could even connect your car to the ppc and moniter engine, fuel, etc. Plus a GPS.. and oh the possibilties are endless. "
Now I have an automatic car so rev monitoring would certainly be overkill.
I get your drift, though thanks for the input.
gregnash
I will have to see how much force is needed to engage the pda.
Don't forget that at least the same force will be needed to disengage it as well.
Mmmm...good point, this means seeing whether a panel mount socket is available in this cofig.
Wouldn't have a clue who might sell panel mount sockets suitable for the Harrier/Blue Angel?
I am not sure how a cable termination would cope with the forces needed.
The fixing method would have to be substantial.
Serial connections to the car comp?
You would probably need to hack the code to get access to it I suppose?
But if you could tap into the on-board engine management computer, then you could change the air to fuel ratio at the injectors and lots of other cool things like disengage my engine cut-out at 190k/per hour and have some real fun!!!
Not much fun at 190K/h and the engine stops-no brakes, no steer!!!
Must be for the rev heads-NOT ME!
I will investigate the force on the antenna connector to see if this is feasable to mount.
I will let you know what I find.
Hi all.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Well life is full of compromises!
So long as you do not require audio output and you are happy with the Harriers speakerphone volume, I think I have a home solution for the uninitiated.
1. I have a "generic brand mobile phone holder-one of those adjustable in width ones- full width just held the Harrier nice and snug.
2. To this I mounted at the bottom (after removing the locking latches)
a USB car charger cable -with no modifications.
-Actually I pop rivetted the backing shell to the holder.
3. I then mounted a Nokia a passive antenna coupler and sculptured the holder-so that it fits at the right height and to the left of the Harrier.(where the antennae is on the Harrier)
4. I then mounted the holder onto the dash of the car (my choice as I put it though a removable panel where a digital clock is fitted in an other model, and passed the antenna cable,and the charger cable to a cavity in the dash.
5. Here I supplied a cigarette socket with 12 volts and connected the charger cable.
What I ended up with was a car mount that was a "drop in" style that
was easy to build without any fiddly soldering of connector pins.
I actually did make it with USB and audio out but these were surperflous as at the moment I do not have an audio in for my car radio or an amp to drive it.
But I just wanted to see if it could be done.
This is why in the picture you can see electrical tape around the cabling.
(This is because I had USB,Audio out and Car charger cable.)
Once you have this type of holder, it is not hard to get a new holder and move only the antenna coupler across ( I would think that the new connector would be different from the Harrier)when you upgrade to a new PDA.
In summary:
Compromise 1.
1.2db loss at antenna coupler-using 9db external antennae so I can live with that.- but no nasty "push to connect" hassles.
Compromise 2.
Audio out does work but the level is so low that it needs good amplification , this I will not follow up until I get a car radio with audio in.
Rely on Speakerphone fore the time being.
I hope this is of help to those thinking of this kind of project.
I hope the picture is reasonably self explanitary.
If you have any questions just let me know.
:?: I need a cable to connect to the phone antenna ports on the device - the port is smaller than the ones to be found on some mobiles (such as my old trusty Nokia 6310i) and I need to find out what type of connector is needed.
Does anyone know where a cable can be obtained or what type of connector is needed ?
I need a connector also
It took me weeks to find the special connector for my XDAII. Now I'm in the same boat for the Universal (JASJAR). I've been searching the net for a while to no avail, but hopefully I find one soon and let us know. :?
Sorry just too lazy to go through the manual so decided to ask the enlightened friends on this forum. I want to know if the antenna socket provided at the back of the Universal is for GSM signals. The GSM signal in my home room is too weak so I thought that attaching an external antenna would be beneficial to the strength of the GSM signal. But obviously even if it is so attaching an antenna would be possible only once we have found a suitable connector.
Kind Regards
I mounted an antenna outside my house
For the last 2 years (with my XDAII) I've used an antenna I ran through my outside brickwall and mounted outside my house. It helped the phone go from NO reception to a pretty good signal. I still have the cable running to my office/desk and all I need now is the connector. It has to be out there somewhere. I ended up buying my previous connector from http://digikey.com, but it ended up costing $30 ... but it was worth it. I'll do more digging today and see if I can find out more.
Oh and by the way, I was using GSM on my XDAII and the manual for the Universal says the connector (closest to the center or USB) is for GSM/GPRS.
Anyone find out what adapter fits the jasjar? My adapter for the pda2k does not fit.
I'm still looking
I've sent emails to PDAGold, HTC in Taiwan and i-Mate to not avail. I'm going to keep on looking. Obviously someone has to know.
Some progress - I've found out the connector type
The connector on the phone is a Amphenol MHC-H196.
I've posted a pdf with all the specifications of the connector on the circuit board ... http://wiki.xda-developers.com/uploads/MHCH196.pdf
Now it's just a matter of finding the correct adapter.
Well I gave up trying to find one and made my own
After spending many hours looking and getting an official "not available" from digikey.com (who I got my XDAII adapter from) and imate techsupport ... I decided to make my own. I haven't been able to test it with my Jasjar yet, though, since it's still being repaired at Topp Solutions in Miami.
I ended up using 26 gage solid wire (which is .4mm diameter) and a .062 inch (1.6mm) diameter female pin connector. This is smaller than the diameter of the connector on the phone, which is actually 1.82mm. Although, I expect it to expand slightly (permanently) when it's slid over the connector on the phone. Obviously, it's very crude for now. I just want to see if it works then I might make a prettier one. I included some pictures for fun. By the way this cost me about $9 in material (which I can use for other projects) vs. $35 for the last adapter I bought for my XDAII through Digikey.
From down under , land of long white cloud...
We have had the same issue ( product known as Jas jar)
My user name in this forum is Digs also, see our discussion :
REF: http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?ForumId=18&TopicId=7105
Did you see the interesting comments made by WilsonsElectronics. HTC really stuffed up with this one.
Is there any news on this matter.
At the moment I have sent an information pack to www.pasternack.com and I am currently waiting for a response. These people do customised products. See under technical support. I will keep you friends informed.
http://www.pasternack.com/ContactUs/ContactInformation.asp
I am after an adapter to get a signal booster... www.digitalantenna.com
I talked to them about three products. there email follows
Description Part Number List Price
60dB gain repeater system 4KSBR-50U $699.95
40dB gain repeater system 4KMR-30U $559.95
Direct Connect Amplifier DA4000 $299.95
DA4000:
The DA4000 amplifier must be purchased with an antenna and cell adapter cable and is a direct-connect system. The antenna is placed on the roof and connects to the inside amplifier which with the correct adapter would then connect to the cellular device. We have many adapters for different phones and air cards. If we do not have the adapter for your type of phone or air card the other option is a wireless repeater. However the direct-connect amplifier can provide higher performance because you are directly connected to it. Please use the link at the bottom of this email to download our 2006 on-line catalog. On page 28/29 is our Cell Adapter Cables which lists the adapters per make/model of cellular phone or PC card.
Description Part Number List Price
Direct Connect Amp. DA4000 $299.95
9dB cell antenna 288-PW $129.95
Cable 340-50NM $79.95
Adapter Cable pg 28/29 $19.95
4KSBR-50U:
The 4KSBR-50U system comes with an external antenna, 50' cable, amplifier/repeater, power supply and an internal antenna. So the external antenna can be installed on the roof with the cable going to the amplifier/repeater inside the house. The internal antenna is also plugged into the amplifier/repeater and is installed inside the house. There must be 40' separation and a wall/roof/bulkhead structure between inside and outside antennas.
With a good cellular signal outside the house the 4KSBR-50U system can reach as far as 40 feet from the internal antenna. Generally the SBR can penetrate 1 or 2 inside walls only and each wall will reduce the 40 feet coverage. Also keep in mind the weaker the outside signal the closer you will need to be to the inside antenna. The 4KSBR-50U system must have a signal that is at or greater than -90db to be able to amplify/repeat it.
4KMR-30U:
The 4KMR-30U, 40dB gain dual band cellular repeater system, comes with an external antenna, 30' cable, amplifier/repeater, power supply and an internal antenna. So the external antenna can be installed on the roof with the cable going to the amplifier/repeater inside the house. The internal antenna is also plugged into the amplifier/repeater and is installed inside the house. There must be 20' separation and a wall/roof/bulkhead structure between inside and outside antennas.
With a good cellular signal outside the house the 4KMR-30U system can reach as far as approximately 18 feet from the internal antenna but will not penetrate walls. Also keep in mind the weaker the outside signal the closer you will need to be to the inside antenna. The 4KMR-30U system must have a signal that is at or greater than -90db to be able to amplify/repeat it.
Try here for antennae and adaptors
I haven't checked this very far yet but the picture seems to match...
http://www.boatersphone.com/PDAs.asp[/url]
More detail...at : http://www.boatersphone.com/Adapters.asp
Its the Nokia 359914 Multi Manufacture Cell Phone adpater, You stick a velco thing on your phone next to the internal adapter, and slide the nokia adapter into it. This is NOT a direct plug in into the External GSM jack of the HTC Universal device ( ie Jas Jar ). But looks like our only safe option. Not sure how the velcro thing goes on the device, the Jas Jar has a plastic back ( over the battery )???
Works on these networks, the site says : 900MHz/1800MHz/1900MHz/2100MHz networks
..."This is an extremely effective new kind of adapter, it works on a similar rinciple to the clip-on adapter, with the exception that it is tuned to work on more frequencies. We have tested it on all UK frequencies including 3G, and we know it works on the American 1900MHz band as well! This adapter was originally designed to work on Nokias but we have successfully used it on other makes of phones, making this a (hopefully!) truly universal adapter. It will work on 'candy-bar' style phones which have an internal antenna.
This adapter is two-piece, one piece is a velcro pad which has sticky-back plastic on it, and sticks onto the back of the phone over the internal antenna. The second piece is the adapter itself, which has velcro over the inductive plate, so it can be easily removed, and has a lead so it can be connected to an external antenna. '...
Where did you get the Information that it's a velcro adaptor?
reading the Page it says:
Plug-In Adaptor for O2 XDA Exec
More details about plug-in adaptor in general:
This kind adapter is called a plug-in adapter, for the simple reason that what it does is plug straight into the port on the back of the phone, and provides a cable connection to the antenna.
The plug-in adapter is preferred to the clip-on adpter, as it works on any mobile network.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wrote them an email i'll keep you informed.
If you can get a plug in one then fine, but further down the page is where I get my info from. I highlighted in bold, just in case you cant see good.(Ha).
I'll bet the Jas Jar gets allocated the valcro one. As my experience is that its very difficult to find a plug one for the Jas Jar /O2 Exec.
Although I learly can read your bold text and being able to find this on on the page i really have no clue where you find the connection between the velco apdator and the O2 XDA Exec since it's marked with plug-in adaptor. Well we will see.
My apologies, yes "Plug-in Adapters", for "XDA, XDA II, XDA IIs, XDA Exec "..
BUT be carefull, the GSM external jack is very weak as per Wilson Electronic comments. Post me any confirmations of the plug in adapter working.
'Universal' adapters that apparently plug in
Their News page has a paragraph that describes a new adapter for various flavours of the Universal (although calling it Wizard to add to the confusion!) and warns against plugging in incompatible adapters. The adapters page lists the HTC devices under 'Plug-In' not 'Clip-on'. So that's why I posted.
I sent an Email after posting here, but it sounds like they are a small outfit so be patient!
Be careful with making adapters for transmitting antennae. For receiving antennae you can get away with almost anything, but for a transmitter a bad match on a connector will create reflections and emissions; it might even damage the transmitter (don't know if that's a problem here). If you don't see a clear increase on the reception bars with a well placed antenna, the adapter may be sending all the power straight back, doubling the voltage at the transmitter. Make sure everything is matched to 50R.
Nick (gave up my amateur radio license long ago since long hours in the loft didn't fit with married life!) :wink:
Reply from 'Boatersphone'
Can you do an adaptor from the obscure Amphenol MHCH196 socket on the HTC Universal Windows PDA phone? (XDA Exec, MDA Pro etc.). Presumably the other end is an FME f connector for the 'standard' phone antennas. Or alternatively the other end is a portable (non-mounted) antenna on 1800/2100MHz.
Many thanks
+++
Hello,
Yes we have an adapter to connect the HTC Universal to one of our antennae and you are correct about the FME F connection. We don't supply an adapter direct to an antennae, only in a two-part system via an FME connection, to allow for changing of either part.
If you require a portable antenna we have a 3G/Multiband antenna with a magnetic base (on 850/900/1800/1900/2100MHz frequencies) or we have a T-bar window antenna, which is 3G/Triband, although this doesn't produce as good results as the magnetic antenna.
Regards,
Arthur @ BPC
Any news? they don't seem to answer anymore. I wrote him two times. Anybody in contact with him?
Messing about in Boats
They advise to be patient, I bet we've flooded them with enquiries and they quote two days to reply!
thought about the half assed twist tie method but I can't seem to find q more stable and secure method such as a fme cable to plug right in. any advice?
Look here a little ways down the page.
http://www.cellphoneshop.net/incredible.html
This one is probably your best bet as it is the only one that physicaly connects to the phone. Its out of stock right now so its probably a good seller.
http://www.cellphoneshop.net/uncephwian.html
My antenna stopped working so I replaced it with a 24 centimeter 20 or 24 gauge stranded copper wire with a flat piece on copper soldered on the end . I just sandwiched it between the old antenna base and the phones 3g terminal. also works with rg58 cable and a direct connect amp. The 3g antenna is on the bottom left hand side of the phone.
my inspiration
androidforums.com/evo-4g-tips-tricks/307536-tutorial-how-add-external-4g-antenna-evo.html
Also the connector on the back of the phone is the Hirose ms-156.
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
http://www.witrigs.com/media/catalo...a71cb48e3d52cb890e76f9e6353/1/0/109063-01.jpg
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
bookfast said:
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
http://www.witrigs.com/media/catalo...a71cb48e3d52cb890e76f9e6353/1/0/109063-01.jpg
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there. Interesting to know that you replaced it all your self . Did you put everything back perfectly ? I mean the display being aligned properly to the body, the speaker grills being flushed with the body; ? Weird to ask, but did you damage anything while doing it all yourself ? Like the screen scratches, or something else ? Sorry, for asking these... Thanks in advance :good:
Tej XFire said:
Hey there. Interesting to know that you replaced it all your self . Did you put everything back perfectly ? I mean the display being aligned properly to the body, the speaker grills being flushed with the body; ? Weird to ask, but did you damage anything while doing it all yourself ? Like the screen scratches, or something else ? Sorry, for asking these... Thanks in advance :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't re-glued the speaker covers back on yet so I dont know if they will be perfectly flush or not, although they still look flat so I think it will look good.
The only damage is a slight bend in the frame on the screen side of the sim tray slot. The metal is thin, and I pried against it to get the hardware out of the frame. That is why I recommended to start from the bottom when separating the two. Doing this should allow others to avoid this problem. It is slight, maybe 1/4mm gap where it used to be flush along the side of the screen above the sim tray.
Otherwise everything was smooth. The screen/frame etc are still mint.
bookfast said:
I haven't re-glued the speaker covers back on yet so I dont know if they will be perfectly flush or not, although they still look flat so I think it will look good.
The only damage is a slight bend in the frame on the screen side of the sim tray slot. The metal is thin, and I pried against it to get the hardware out of the frame. That is why I recommended to start from the bottom when separating the two. Doing this should allow others to avoid this problem. It is slight, maybe 1/4mm gap where it used to be flush along the side of the screen above the sim tray.
Otherwise everything was smooth. The screen/frame etc are still mint.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, you've done it like a pro then. :good: .Any picture describing the damage would be helpful, if you can provide. Is the display mint ? No scuffs/scratches on it ? But, my speaker grills were damaged onto the edges after the repair was carried out. Does yours show the same sign ? I don't mean the flatness of the grills, but the damage that should be done, while prying out the grills. A picture showing your damage would be helpful to me. I could do the same, if you insist. Thanks ! :good:
Mine is busted. But I cannot find the PCB. The link in the op is dead.
Any ideas?
http://www.witrigs.com/oem-charging-port-flex-for-htc-one-m8
bookfast said:
http://www.witrigs.com/oem-charging-port-flex-for-htc-one-m8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually got one off eBay for $17.21. Works perfectly.
Just wondering....
Sounds like you were able to avoid some steps in the teardown guide, if I recall it was damn near a total disassemble. Do you have a lot of experience with phones? I want to fix mine, but don't need a tedious project right now. If I repair mine I'd like to put a mini USB in place of the micro if possible, I've seen too many damaged micro usb to trust or like them. As for the speaker grills, if you're picky buy replacements, they're cheap.
microphone on charging port?
bookfast said:
Hey all,
I just replaced the charging port on my m8 and wanted to let people know it is straight forward. My port got corroded and was shorting out, melting the adapter and not charging the phone. I sent it in hoping for warranty, but the replacement quote was $400! (due to S-off they "had" to replace the entire motherboard). The phone has a separate pcb with the micro usb charge port and headphone input.
example:
link
To remove this board you need to do a few easy things:
1) disconnect the ribbon and remove the insulating tape (to reattach to new part)
2) unsnap the small white power cable
3) loosen the screw on the motherboard near the headphone input. This is clamping down the assembly a bit
tools required:
phillips 00
t5 torx bit
spudger/guitar picks
I would recommend prying the phone out of the frame starting from the bottom. I started from the top and bent the thin strip of aluminum above the sim slot when prying it out.
Also, you can pry the bracket/spring off the top of the old usb port to give the new one a tight fit if your replacement didnt come with it (like mine)
Lastly, just note that power button fell out as soon as I pried the frame apart from the guts. This made it a bit of a pain to reassemble - just be sure to reassemble with the top in first. That will keep the power button in place.
The replacement part cost me $30, so it was definitely worth it! phone now works great.
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My HTC M8's main call microphone has stopped working, and through searches on Google it seems that perhaps that this mic (first mic, non-speakerphone mic) is built into the charging port. Is this the case? I cannot find anything that explicitly says this, and I'd love to get the phone back in working condition.
dm8233 said:
My HTC M8's main call microphone has stopped working, and through searches on Google it seems that perhaps that this mic (first mic, non-speakerphone mic) is built into the charging port. Is this the case? I cannot find anything that explicitly says this, and I'd love to get the phone back in working condition.
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I too am also curious if the mic is on the usb part because my mic doesnt wrk when i make calls.
Will replacing the usb port fix the problem?
Harvey02 said:
I too am also curious if the mic is on the usb part because my mic doesnt wrk when i make calls.
Will replacing the usb port fix the problem?
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I called HTC, the mic is on the USB port, although you should make sure that it's not a software issue first. There are several threads on the internet easily found through Google which discuss doing a factory reset to resolve this if it turns out to be a software problem.
Thanks for your reply. I did a factory reset when I got the phone but it still doesn't work. Does that mean it's not a software problem and that if I replace the usb it should work?
Harvey02 said:
Thanks for your reply. I did a factory reset when I got the phone but it still doesn't work. Does that mean it's not a software problem and that if I replace the usb it should work?
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I would think so, yes.
Thanks! Do you know of any online source confirming that?
Harvey02 said:
Thanks! Do you know of any online source confirming that?
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No, but from what I've studied about it, it should work. Feel free to contact HTC, they actually have a live chat available somewhere on their website. Good luck to you.
Very interesting, I contacted htc and we went through diagnostics together and the rep said that I have to send it in. I asked him if the mic was on the usb assembly and he said that it wasn't and rather it was on the motherboard, and I clarified that we were talking about the primary mic which is located near the usb port. Confusing bec everywhere I saw online said that the mic is on the usb assembly. Go figure!
Harvey02 said:
Very interesting, I contacted htc and we went through diagnostics together and the rep said that I have to send it in. I asked him if the mic was on the usb assembly and he said that it wasn't and rather it was on the motherboard, and I clarified that we were talking about the primary mic which is located near the usb port. Confusing bec everywhere I saw online said that the mic is on the usb assembly. Go figure!
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What did you end up doing? Did you discover if it was on the motherboard or the part with the USB port? I've waited a while to repair mine for other reasons, and I am now prepared to fix it. Any information would be helpful.
Just a few notes on my own experience.
I replaced the screen in my friend's M8 a few months ago. Seemed like everything went ok, except after I got done, the mic didn't work anymore. This is strange because it worked fine before, and all I did was remove/replace the circuit board in the process (yes, the small one at the bottom with the uUSB port). However, the upper rear microphone was still working I believe, because people on the other end of the line could still hear if the phone was put into speakerphone mode. I don't know why it would stop working all of a sudden.... Ran the HTC audio test using *#*#3424*#* to confirm main mic wasn't working and that the aux rear mic was.
Fast forward to this week, with my own M8. The uUSB connector was going bad, and I was having trouble charging, so I figured it was time to replace that circuit board. Ordered a new one and replaced, but when I got it back together, the USB port was fine of course, but my mic wasn't working now, just like my friends! On top of that, the headphone jack didn't work at all. Most likely the "cable inserted" signal wasn't getting back up to the motherboard, but didn't check. So pissed off. Also, the new board I got didn't have the bottom left RF connector/circuitry populated. Thinking from research that it might be for the GPS? I should have tested when the board was in there, but didn't. Fixed a bad solder joint on the original board's uUSB connector, which helped, but still charging is a bit messed up. I'd rather have a working mic and headphone jack and have to play with the cable to get to charge for a while until I get another board (from another supplier, jerks).
Yes, the mic is the small chip on the very left side of the board. It has a hole underneath the chip, going through the board and to the front face to receive the acoustics.
I don't know why the mic not working is so common after an HTC One M8 tear down, as it seems many others are having the same issue. One theory I have is that pulling the circuit board from the motherboard while power is still applied (not unplugging the battery first) might be jacking the microphone somehow. Just a theory, but I'd recommend to be safe that anyone replacing the board should unplug the battery cable before replacing the USB/mic circuit board.
I'd just like to chime in to say that I've read about some people having problems with the mic not working after replacing the USB board. From what I understand, there are two different versions of it, and replacing it with the wrong one can cause that very issue. You should look into it.
EDIT: Source - http://www.witrigs.com/blog/htc-one-m8-audio-jack-not-work-after-charging-board-replacement/
Mic broken after USB repair
Old thread but I have the same problem. Replaced USB board and now my mic does not work. However I am pretty certain I did order the correct board (had 2x connectors for my Verizon HTC m8). And my microphone jack work great which others indicate is often broken along with the mic. Anyone have any workarounds?
It seems that I have either been too careless when changing my broken display, or I have a typical monday example from the production floor... Because the big flat cable connector mounted on the mainboard has cracked and a corner piece has broken off completely.
I managed to glue it back into place, but there's some plastic missing between the wired connection points. This means (seems to anyway) that my MicroSD slot is busted and is currently short circuiting the whole phone if any MicroSD is mounted.
Now my question:
Is there anyway to buy an entirely new one of these connector ports?
I've looked high and low online (eBay and otherwise), however I really don't know the proper terminology to search accurately.
I work in electronic manufacturing and we actually have connectors in stock, very similar to the one I need, but obviously similar doesn't cut it - I need the exact model used. If I had one I could easily solder it in place at work...
Does anyone have any ideas of how to find one?
I include one picture to clarify which connector I am talking about. It is not a pic of my actual mainboard, but a pic from eBay that I marked, just to give a general idea.