I have been beta testing a bittorrent client app on my EVO that runs on Android. I'm able to use the app's built-in search feature to search for torrent files on isoHunt. I can select the file and it will start transferring to my computer, but I've been having a bunch of problems getting it to complete a download.
I installed the 3gtest app and ran a test. It said that both bit torrent uplink traffic and bit torrent downlink traffic were blocked. This was all on 3G. I had 4G turned off. Has anyone else seen this?
I plan to try it on 4G (assuming 3gtest works on 4G), and I was also thinking about trying to transfer a torrent on my PC while wi-fi tethering. I'm running fresh's 0.5.3 ROM, but I doubt there's anything there that's causing a problem. Fresh doesn't run adblocking or anything. Any ideas?
geams13 said:
I have been beta testing a bittorrent client app on my EVO that runs on Android. I'm able to use the app's built-in search feature to search for torrent files on isoHunt. I can select the file and it will start transferring to my computer, but I've been having a bunch of problems getting it to complete a download.
I installed the 3gtest app and ran a test. It said that both bit torrent uplink traffic and bit torrent downlink traffic were blocked. This was all on 3G. I had 4G turned off. Has anyone else seen this?
I plan to try it on 4G (assuming 3gtest works on 4G), and I was also thinking about trying to transfer a torrent on my PC while wi-fi tethering. I'm running fresh's 0.5.3 ROM, but I doubt there's anything there that's causing a problem. Fresh doesn't run adblocking or anything. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get the same results while tethering my phone. Shame really...
I dont have any problems... I have been downloading torrents via tether since the 4th.
I can download torrents, but never get past 10kbps while downloading
My speeds go up and down, tops at 150kb/s.
I'll try it later over usb tethering and post my results so we can see if it's regional or nationwide.
You have a link to this bittorrent client? I never have my laptop in a 4G area.
Sent from my Evo via XDA
geams13 said:
I have been beta testing a bittorrent client app on my EVO that runs on Android. I'm able to use the app's built-in search feature to search for torrent files on isoHunt. I can select the file and it will start transferring to my computer, but I've been having a bunch of problems getting it to complete a download.
I installed the 3gtest app and ran a test. It said that both bit torrent uplink traffic and bit torrent downlink traffic were blocked. This was all on 3G. I had 4G turned off. Has anyone else seen this?
I plan to try it on 4G (assuming 3gtest works on 4G), and I was also thinking about trying to transfer a torrent on my PC while wi-fi tethering. I'm running fresh's 0.5.3 ROM, but I doubt there's anything there that's causing a problem. Fresh doesn't run adblocking or anything. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYI I ran this app on my 4G and on my home WiFi.. both of which can download torrents just fine and it shows them as "Blocked" so I am not sure how accurate it is.
oOflyeyesOo said:
My speeds go up and down, tops at 150kb/s.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AndTorrent gives me about the same speeds on 3G/4G.
WiFi tops out ~200kb/s.
For those interested, check out BluePlanetapps on twitter. That's the developer and he posts updates there.
My 3gtest says that bittorrents are blocked, but I can actually start a torrent. The speeds vary on 3G, going up to around 150 kb/s, but after a variable number of minutes downloading, it'll stop. I can manually restart it later and it continues to download, and then it will stop again.
It seems like Sprint isn't blocking all bittorrent ports, but that it's detecting the torrent and then blocks it. I dunno. I'll try tethering and 4G over the next couple of days and post my results. Unfortunately, I don't get a great 4G signal at home. If anyone else runs any tests, please post them.
I'm not surprised in the slightest that Sprint is blocking them. Why? Two reasons:
1) Upload bandwith on a limited cell network is, well, limited. It's just like your normal internet node - there's usually lots of download bandwith, but only so much upload to go around. You cap that and you've now screwed everyone else on the node until you're done.
2) Legality issues. 95-99% (some high percentage) of all torrents out there contain some sort of illegal and/or very gray-area items. Sprint is trying to protect their rears for when the MPAA/RIAA mafia look their way.
So yes, I'm not surprised at all. Why you shouldn't be doing it either. For the love of all that's holy, if you must torrent, do it on your own home connection that has a MUCH higher limit on upload bandwith.
Actually, as crazy as it sounds my upload speeds are faster on 3g than on my home connection. Thank you time warner.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
I wired tethered my evo to my pc on 3g last night, was torrenting just fine
Uh all modern bittorent applications chose ports at random.
Hey guys,
I've seen a few GS3 threads over the past few weeks where people with multiple Wifi access points have their phone desperately hang on to a relatively weak signal when a stronger signal is available on another access point.
I thought I would let you know that I've been trying out an app called 'Wifi Jumper" that seems to take care of this problem quite well. It scans every 60 seconds (configurable) and if it finds a stronger signal it will automatically drop the existing connection and reconnect to the stronger access point. It can also do other stuff like enable wifi based on mobile tower--based locations but I haven't tried this functionality.
Apologies if this has already been posted - I searched the forum for the word 'jumper' and got no results. It's a paid app available at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.goramart.wifijumper
PS: I'm not affiliated with the app authors and don't get anything out of this in case your wondering.
kwyj said:
Hey guys,
I've seen a few GS3 threads over the past few weeks where people with multiple Wifi access points have their phone desperately hang on to a relatively weak signal when a stronger signal is available on another access point.
I thought I would let you know that I've been trying out an app called 'Wifi Jumper" that seems to take care of this problem quite well. It scans every 60 seconds (configurable) and if it finds a stronger signal it will automatically drop the existing connection and reconnect to the stronger access point. It can also do other stuff like enable wifi based on mobile tower--based locations but I haven't tried this functionality.
Apologies if this has already been posted - I searched the forum for the word 'jumper' and got no results. It's a paid app available at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.goramart.wifijumper
PS: I'm not affiliated with the app authors and don't get anything out of this in case your wondering.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
has anyone tested the posted app? :good:
I'm about to give the ($1.22) app a go. I'll report back. Google Play and/or Wallet is down right now, so it'll be a bit.
The 802.11 signal sensitivity on my Tmo GS3 is HORRIBLE, so I gotta find something.
The thing that caught my eye about this app is that it will supposedly turn my wifi back on when my phone is in the cell-tower-specific geographic area.
I bought it and use it all the time. I am not sure how good it works. Sometimes it seems to work great and sometimes not so much.
I do like the repeater option so when I stay in a hotel it hops around to the best signal if they are all named the same.
I am interested in seeing what others use for this type of app as there are more and more in the store. None seem to be as good as Wifitrak was on my iTouch though.
I also use an app called Wifi Auto-login lite that works great at Mcdonalds, Home Depot, and Sams Club.
Am loving the Wifi Jumper app. Took me a few times to realize that it will re-enable wifi if you turn it off via any othere way than pressing stop on the Jumper app. It's behavior by design.. no ding intended
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda app-developers app
Fireraider, you should check todays wifi jumper's update. A complete rewritten repeater module should fix the connection problems that some repeater environments forced before.
In my Fritz!box 7390 + Fritz repeater + second access point with different SSID it works beautiful.
Beside the other nice features the app offers...
Ok I can't ask in developers pages, but I have an observation from my attempting to get better 4g (wimax speeds) in ICS.
I have come up with a conspiracy theory, that's may not be true, but conspiracies are fun.
Ok so I decided to try out the Blue Kuban ICS rom, its got a lot of nice features BTW!!! Using the AGAT kernel v.0.6.7. with the 0.2.2 repack.
I have tried a myriad of different modems, such as EL29, FI127, and FF18 the one thing I noticed is some of the modems have better signal strength and signal quality (raises a question whats the best signal strength, and quality figures one can get? I've seen -69, and 24).
It has really been driving me insane that, I can't change my 4G(Wimax) IP in ICS, all it took in GB was a simple toggle on and off of my wifi.
I was going through my speed test results and among my first speed tests using Blue Kuban, and the FI127 Modem, I got over 8Mbits down, was happy and went to sleep played with a few other things on the phone.
Next day, never got above 3Mbits... Even at 3AM tried different servers, of course I know speed test isn't the end all be all test, but even a broken clock is right twice a day.
Started looking at phone information, and I noticed that the higher speed was connected to a different IP as well as had a different visible IP. This begs the question, why can't we manually try and change the IP, I've been trying to find something that alludes to this in the "WimaxHiddenMenu"
i.imgur.com/WGsaB.png
So far I haven't figured out if there is any way to change the Wimax DHCP lease, or get it to acquire a new IP.
So my conspiracy theory, has Google, colluded with companies like sprint to prevent people from taking advantage of their Data Rates, by assigning us throttled gateways? Is this really a Kernel bug, or is it a deliberate thing, why wouldn't they be able to make the Wimax work just as good, as in Gingerbread?? Is the source code that incompatible?
Here are some nice screen shots of my fail, and AIDs...
i.imgur.com/pR3HG.png
i.imgur.com/OHejU.png
i.imgur.com/WS70x.png
i.imgur.com/8q71Y.png
Of course now I'm just talking to myself, but I also read that there is a way to change, the 4G(wimax) modem MAC address, in ICS I suppose that would be a way of tricking the towers into thinking your using a different device, but I always thought MAC addresses were unique to the device, also I'm not sure how to construct a valid MAC address.
Is there more information on this, topic??
Has anyone figure out how to get the E4GT running ICS, to drop its DHCP lease, and acquire a new IP.
I was clued in to that what I seek is probably somewhere in /system/data or some similar directory.
But haven't found anything that I can read in plain english that may be wimax ip related.
Ok so I think I conclusively proved to my self that it isn't the persistent 4G IP address in ICS, that was causing my speed problems.
I used this Kernel repack
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1942823
The first Kernel repack (AGAT_FI27_repack.zip) gives me much better 4G speeds, on top of the blue kuban kernel.
The second repack (AGAT_FI27_repack_2.zip) you can download screws up the 4G speeds, with the blue kuban kernel.
I was getting in excess of 6-7Mbit down, with The first repack.
Out of Curiosity, I downloaded the latest AGAT Kernel, from The Kuban Updater, and installed it.
The speeds went back to mediocre, so I installed the AGAT_FI27_repack.zip over the latest AGAT_v0.6.8 Kernel.
Now I'm getting between 10-11Mbits consistantly!!!
Also I am using the FI27 Modem
So this is great News for People who have reverted back to Gingerbread roms.
So probably no speed throttling conspiracy regarding the persistent 4G IP, but perhaps and attempt at preventing IP Ban evasions.
Regardless, of the reason, I still like being able to reset, my IP. I found a buggy unstable IP changer, that works for changing the 3G IP, but just seems to hang with 4G for displaying any data, and the reset seems to restart the 4G but just hangs in the "getting new IP mode"
The app is called "IP Changer for Mobile Network" by Yu, buggy but sort of works...
Ok I think I'll get off my rant box now, and try and get past 10 posts, so I can link images and such :|
Hey OP... I enjoyed reading you talking to yourself and thank you for testing kernels for speeds for 4g on BluKuban... I have had similar frustrations but only have 4g at work not at home so have not had time to do the testing...
anyway... thanks and thanks for the jovial musings
uriel1971 said:
Hey OP... I enjoyed reading you talking to yourself and thank you for testing kernels for speeds for 4g on BluKuban... I have had similar frustrations but only have 4g at work not at home so have not had time to do the testing...
anyway... thanks and thanks for the jovial musings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:3
hi friends this is my first post in GS3 world. We live in a rural area and are dependent on good WIFI service - I do tech work so the WIFI in the hacienda is very robust. All our other many devices love the WIFI rig: 2 ipad mins, one Galaxy Note 1, another older Galaxy, two laptops, one HTPC, etc. Only the new-to-me GS3 has issues with it. The visual indicator on the handset seems to not give an accurate picture, so we keep going into settings and seeing what is reported there... "Strong" signal is usually what displays, but in use, sending messages, making wifi calls, whatever, the results are pretty bad. We're using the stock messaging [google] app and stock T-Mobile WIFI calling app.
I want to say that web browsing is a little better, but can't really give details.
ROM etc:
android 4.1.2
baseband T999UVDMD5
Kernel 3.0.31-1128078
build JZ054K.T999UVDMD5
searching around the web I see a lot of the same complaints but really lousy diagnosis and lousier fixes [turn off 'data'; reboot the handset; call T-mobile... that sort of 'fix']
What is the scoop? Is there an internal WIFI antenna connection inside that needs to be checked?
Is there some elusive patch from Samsung?
Is the rig Channel-sensitive? [some older handsets only liked channel 11, or others only channel 6, etc.]
pls point me to the definitive thread if there is one...
thanks in advance
I'm not sure of any threads with much information on this. I don't recall seeing very many WiFi issues at all with the S3.
Are you rooted? Custom ROM?
If so you may want to try some of the other modems/baseband. Link in my Sig.
Otherwise, maybe try Odin flashing the UVDLJC or LJA firmware.
You say it's new to you, so I'm assuming you got it used. Do you know who you bought it from and did they report any problems?
How does it perform on other WiFi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999L using xda premium
DocHoliday77 said:
I'm not sure of any threads with much information on this. I don't recall seeing very many WiFi issues at all with the S3.
Are you rooted? Custom ROM?
If so you may want to try some of the other modems/baseband. Link in my Sig.
Otherwise, maybe try Odin flashing the UVDLJC or LJA firmware.
You say it's new to you, so I'm assuming you got it used. Do you know who you bought it from and did they report any problems?
How does it perform on other WiFi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999L using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, flash stock or root66 firmware of choice. We will go from there.
Aerowinder said:
Yep, flash stock or root66 firmware of choice. We will go from there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its all stock now.
are you saying to go ahead and nuke, reinstall stock ROM?
I don't have the option of going down Root66 - we are utterly dependent on WIFI Calling.
Is there a way to stop scanning selectively? that is, when I am on my own AP, there's no point in constantly scanning - there are other very weak wifi AP's in the vicinity and I"m wondering if somehow that causes an issue? my Note 1 is rock-solid. I don't recall a single drop with it in the 6 months I've had it. Most disconcerting is when WIFI calling drops - I've been using T-mobile devices for years and only once did I have one for which WIFI calling would disconnect, restart, and reappear like this. It will drop out, then refind its WIFI connection, then you get the "WIFI is Ready" all over again, just like you do when Rebooting the phone.
cognus said:
its all stock now.
are you saying to go ahead and nuke, reinstall stock ROM?
I don't have the option of going down Root66 - we are utterly dependent on WIFI Calling.
Is there a way to stop scanning selectively? that is, when I am on my own AP, there's no point in constantly scanning - there are other very weak wifi AP's in the vicinity and I"m wondering if somehow that causes an issue? my Note 1 is rock-solid. I don't recall a single drop with it in the 6 months I've had it. Most disconcerting is when WIFI calling drops - I've been using T-mobile devices for years and only once did I have one for which WIFI calling would disconnect, restart, and reappear like this. It will drop out, then refind its WIFI connection, then you get the "WIFI is Ready" all over again, just like you do when Rebooting the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, nuke everything. That's the only way we can rule out modified/mismatched firmware as a cause.
root66 is stock firmware with root injected into the system image. So wifi calling will still be there. It's just whether or not you want root.
Also wipe data/factory reset. If using stock recovery, this WILL wipe your internal SD. Backup your user apps with TiBu/RTB, and your internal SD card. Do not backup system apps.
You can adjust scanning frequency with build.prop modifications, but I personally use Tasker to control when it's on and off.
ahh. my fault.
ok, we'll get on it tonight and report back when squeaky clean.
Aerowinder said:
Yes, nuke everything. That's the only way we can rule out modified/mismatched firmware as a cause.
root66 is stock firmware with root injected into the system image. So wifi calling will still be there. It's just whether or not you want root.
Also wipe data/factory reset. If using stock recovery, this WILL wipe your internal SD. Backup your user apps with TiBu/RTB, and your internal SD card. Do not backup system apps.
You can adjust scanning frequency with build.prop modifications, but I personally use Tasker to control when it's on and off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please; need a little guidance
Friends, I successfully nuked the GS3, flashed with Root66, got everything working really well but the WIFI issues resurfaced.
Does the GS3 just have a really weak radio?
Compared to even the most humble Galaxy S4G [old and tired], its WIFI performance is not impressive.
Compared to my personal Galaxy Note 1 running more/less stock ICS, its awful ... annoying, unreliable, glitch.
WHY?
My suspicion is that it has trouble switching/credentialing/authenticating from one physical router/AP to another. In our wifi lan setup we have a common AP composed of 2 routers of different chipsets/mftr. Works dandy on ipads, iphones, windows 8, windows 8.1, my Note 1, older/retired/sold androids, etc. The Galaxy S3 is pretty much alone at having trouble when the physical signal of one gets weak and the second one is available - it seems to fumble the ball. Thus, you try to make/receive/talk wifi Call, and get random drops, retries, reload of the WIFI Calling APP.
is there a fix?
Set static channel?
Set static IP [instead of DHCP/select] ?
Grab inSSIDer from the play store, it'll show you if you are on the best wifi channel for your network.
Try turning off some of your other devices wifi connections. May be that the router isn't handling them all at once very well.
Do you have anything that operates on the Wireless-G standard? If so shut it down. Itll only severely degrade the entire networks performance.
You need to be rooted for this, but try the LJC and LJA modems, others too if your up for it.
Does it exhibit the same problems on other wifi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
Thank you for helping!
OK - Let me ask a question [it is rooted - root66 per above, busybox, SU, etc]:
I've used InSSIDer before and moved channels here and there and what I noticed is that the way inSSIDer deals with signal data display, whatever channel you pick, it will show one of the other channels as being "better". switch to that channel, and it will show some other channels to be better, etc round and round we go. maybe I'm not using it right...
as to G-only devices I'll give that a shot - I think one of my windows units may be all G. easy fix.
To me it seems clear: the places where the GS3 goes ambiguous and fails to maintain a connection is where the two AP signals [again, one AP,one login, one authentication type, but 2 physical] are pretty evenly matched, per how WIFI Analyzer displays the data. If I shut off the tertiary router, it will just drop signal when you move a tad too far away which is what one would expect, but the GS3's "reach" is the worst of the lot. I'm hoping somebody has figured out how to get hold of that radio and boost the signal.
I don't have a feel for how it does otherwise - we are dependent on WIFI calling at home/office - when out and about its the usual drill... sit in the right spot at the restaurant and you're good.
Those modems you suggest: do they support T-mo WIFI calling APP ?
DocHoliday77 said:
Grab inSSIDer from the play store, it'll show you if you are on the best wifi channel for your network.
Try turning off some of your other devices wifi connections. May be that the router isn't handling them all at once very well.
Do you have anything that operates on the Wireless-G standard? If so shut it down. Itll only severely degrade the entire networks performance.
You need to be rooted for this, but try the LJC and LJA modems, others too if your up for it.
Does it exhibit the same problems on other wifi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cognus said:
Thank you for helping!
OK - Let me ask a question [it is rooted - root66 per above, busybox, SU, etc]:
I've used InSSIDer before and moved channels here and there and what I noticed is that the way inSSIDer deals with signal data display, whatever channel you pick, it will show one of the other channels as being "better". switch to that channel, and it will show some other channels to be better, etc round and round we go. maybe I'm not using it right...
as to G-only devices I'll give that a shot - I think one of my windows units may be all G. easy fix.
To me it seems clear: the places where the GS3 goes ambiguous and fails to maintain a connection is where the two AP signals [again, one AP,one login, one authentication type, but 2 physical] are pretty evenly matched, per how WIFI Analyzer displays the data. If I shut off the tertiary router, it will just drop signal when you move a tad too far away which is what one would expect, but the GS3's "reach" is the worst of the lot. I'm hoping somebody has figured out how to get hold of that radio and boost the signal.
I don't have a feel for how it does otherwise - we are dependent on WIFI calling at home/office - when out and about its the usual drill... sit in the right spot at the restaurant and you're good.
Those modems you suggest: do they support T-mo WIFI calling APP ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As or inssider, or any similar app, I don't go by what it says is the best channel. I simply look for the channel that has the fewest networks overlapping it. It probably tells you a different one us best each time because its taking into account that there is now another network on the previously recommended channel, yours.
If you have a single G device on an N network, it'll slow the entire network down to wireless-g speeds. So yeah, shut down that machine and ill bet you see improvements across the board. (You may need to reboot the network and other devices)
If you have one router and one AP but both with the same ssid and pw that may be causing your problems. With this type setup there's no way to really be sure which you're connected to. You may connect when close to one, but when you move away from it and closer to the second, it won't connect to the closer/stronger one automatically. Even if you turn it off then on again, it may still connect to the first if the signal is strong enough, even though there may be a stronger one available.
Try having it connect to the ap using different credentials and then you should have greater control over which you're using at a given time.
Allthe modems should function properly with everything they are supposed to, so yes they'll all work for wifi calling. I was looking into a way to adjust the Tx power for wifi a long time ago. Ill see if I can find what I was doing and try again. If you use a 3rd party router firmware (dd-wrt or tomato), you can adjust Tx power on the router itself if I remember correctly.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
DocHoliday77 said:
If you have a single G device on an N network, it'll slow the entire network down to wireless-g speeds. So yeah, shut down that machine and ill bet you see improvements across the board. (You may need to reboot the network and other devices)
If you have one router and one AP but both with the same ssid and pw that may be causing your problems. With this type setup there's no way to really be sure which you're connected to. You may connect when close to one, but when you move away from it and closer to the second, it won't connect to the closer/stronger one automatically. Even if you turn it off then on again, it may still connect to the first if the signal is strong enough, even though there may be a stronger one available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
in reverse order:
- as to to the wifi device power/range I was speaking of the phone/handset, not the router. But since you mentioned: I have not found an N or beyond router that has GOOD open source; open-wrt, dd-wrt, tomato et al - if you really read carefully what the feedback is, a lot of them suffer bad speed degradation. the old wrt54gl's would run full-tilt G speeds, over a wide range, and last for many years, but I have not found the equivalent in any other device running or capable of running one of the good [or formerly good] open-source codebase
- Are you sure about that client-bridging common-ssid/pw/encryption? the whole point of such firmware is to make the transition seamless and it is for every device except the GS3: two ipad's, one Galaxy S4G [999v], one Galaxy note T879 [debloated stock ics], two HP workstations, three laptops - gateway, thinkpad, hp Envy - not one of those devices gags when switching router signals. only the GS3. with the other devices, you literally forget that you've got multiple routers
The GS3 code has multiple network notifications also that the other two Galaxy's do not: it interrupts your blasted work to INFORM you that you're signal is dropping [how dumb is that?] - then it informs you that you've been disconnected, and informs you that you're "not registered on the network", then it informs you that it is logging in again, then it informs you that WIFI Calling App is ready for use as though it was the first time you used it.
- I will give the modems a whirl. I'll stash a full nandroid and try them out - If any of you happen to have a link to the 'how to' steps pls pass on as it will save me a lot of careful reading.
oh, and I was wrong about G-device; i replaced that one with an N device. Frankly, G speed is way fast enough. my internet connection is only 20Mbps so if I had the old WRT rigs back and up/running it would be PLENTY fast. Mixing B with G... now that was a real problem - there you were talking about effectively 1 to 5 Mbps
cognus said:
in reverse order:
- as to to the wifi device power/range I was speaking of the phone/handset, not the router. But since you mentioned: I have not found an N or beyond router that has GOOD open source; open-wrt, dd-wrt, tomato et al - if you really read carefully what the feedback is, a lot of them suffer bad speed degradation. the old wrt54gl's would run full-tilt G speeds, over a wide range, and last for many years, but I have not found the equivalent in any other device running or capable of running one of the good [or formerly good] open-source codebase
- Are you sure about that client-bridging common-ssid/pw/encryption? the whole point of such firmware is to make the transition seamless and it is for every device except the GS3: two ipad's, one Galaxy S4G [999v], one Galaxy note T879 [debloated stock ics], two HP workstations, three laptops - gateway, thinkpad, hp Envy - not one of those devices gags when switching router signals. only the GS3. with the other devices, you literally forget that you've got multiple routers
The GS3 code has multiple network notifications also that the other two Galaxy's do not: it interrupts your blasted work to INFORM you that you're signal is dropping [how dumb is that?] - then it informs you that you've been disconnected, and informs you that you're "not registered on the network", then it informs you that it is logging in again, then it informs you that WIFI Calling App is ready for use as though it was the first time you used it.
- I will give the modems a whirl. I'll stash a full nandroid and try them out - If any of you happen to have a link to the 'how to' steps pls pass on as it will save me a lot of careful reading.
oh, and I was wrong about G-device; i replaced that one with an N device. Frankly, G speed is way fast enough. my internet connection is only 20Mbps so if I had the old WRT rigs back and up/running it would be PLENTY fast. Mixing B with G... now that was a real problem - there you were talking about effectively 1 to 5 Mbps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I havent used any 3rd party firmwares for my networks in a long time. I was assuming that for the Wireless-N routers, they would have come a long way and solved a lot of their issues by now. My mistake.
I am sure about the router/ap setup. (Is your second set up as an Access Point or Repeater? Either way the same issues can still present themselves) I refer you to the following website for information on this and a little bit to back up my claim. It may be worded better or easier to understand than me, but either way its good info.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...w-to-add-an-access-point-to-a-wireless-router
Step 3 is where this is touched on.
I have to be honest that I am skeptical that your other devices are transitioning over to the AP. (im guessing they are ALWAYS connecting to the AP) Unless their radios are actually much weaker than the GS3's. In fact, what I suspect at this point is that your GS3 is trying to connect directly to your router all the time, while your other devices are connecting to one or the other, all of the time. This is one of the draw backs to using the same SSID, it is difficult to tell which you are actually connecting to.
Read over that linked page. Let me know what you think.
Will do. thanks for that.
if your theory is right, on any one of the frequent auto-disconnect cycles, you're saying that the GS3 will connect to which? the stronger one? any idea how the firmware is setup to pick a winner?
Also, webbing around for answers [there are a LOT of threads on this issue as it turns out], there's a good deal of discussion about 5ghz vs 2.4ghz bands, and that samsung/t-mo have changed how the firmware handles transitions [or connect/disconnect] to one or the other. i.e. https://support.t-mobile.com/thread/37707?start=0&tstart=0
I can set my routers to one or the other if that would help - Any ideas if one is preferable?
Ever heard of GS3 being "channel sensitive"? I have not. Early WIFI/WIFI-Calling capable models from several mftrs were quite channel-nitpicky.
I could easily check that transition [seamless dropping of one, connecting to another] if there was a way to verify the MAC of the connected ap. know of such? I can't find much in the way of advanced settings but I have not a guide to the keyboard/manual settings methods for this build 4.1.2.
read the article but see no discussion of your point.
pick the right link?
the setup I'm using is simple wireless bridging - no physical medium between the twain. subordinate router has the mac address, encryption type, ssid, credentials and channel setting of the boss. reboot and done.
pretty much the same type of bridging as with DD-WRT [though it has a lot more options... more confusing]
I really think that the GS3 modems aren't that good, especially when it comes to wifi calling. My family and I haven been having some bad signal problems as of late so we've been relying on wifi calling to make calls. I had a lot of dropped calls in the past but I knew that had a lot to do with the old modem/router setup I was using. I would lose internet connection not matter what I was on. The internet would just drop and then reconnect, very frustrating if you were on a call or playing Xbox live. so last week I hooked up a new Comcast modem with wifi. The drops stopped but I still have to literally be standing right next to the modem if I wanted to make sure I didn't lose a call. If I walked into the kitchen, which is 15ft away, I'd get the little beep that warns that I'm about to lose the wifi signal. I know my signal that's coming from the router is good because all my devices, including the phone says so. Hell, the kids across the street asked if they could have the password because their internet was shut off and my signal is strong over there.
I don't have anything technical to support what I say, just experience but that experience tells me that Tmobile's wifi calling doesn't work that well unless your within 3 ft of the router.
cognus said:
Will do. thanks for that.
if your theory is right, on any one of the frequent auto-disconnect cycles, you're saying that the GS3 will connect to which? the stronger one? any idea how the firmware is setup to pick a winner?
Also, webbing around for answers [there are a LOT of threads on this issue as it turns out], there's a good deal of discussion about 5ghz vs 2.4ghz bands, and that samsung/t-mo have changed how the firmware handles transitions [or connect/disconnect] to one or the other. i.e. https://support.t-mobile.com/thread/37707?start=0&tstart=0
I can set my routers to one or the other if that would help - Any ideas if one is preferable?
Ever heard of GS3 being "channel sensitive"? I have not. Early WIFI/WIFI-Calling capable models from several mftrs were quite channel-nitpicky.
I could easily check that transition [seamless dropping of one, connecting to another] if there was a way to verify the MAC of the connected ap. know of such? I can't find much in the way of advanced settings but I have not a guide to the keyboard/manual settings methods for this build 4.1.2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Accorfong to my research it'll try to always connect to the first one it connected to. Even if the signal is stronger on another. That's the main point I was linking to that article for.
As for which band to choose, 2.4 is usually best. 5.0 is faster, but with a shorter range and more susceptible to interference.
tmob removed the option as you can manually select which you prefer. There is an apl I include with all my roms though that'll give this option back. Let me know if you want the link, though I doubt it'll help ypur particular problem.
cognus said:
read the article but see no discussion of your point.
pick the right link?
the setup I'm using is simple wireless bridging - no physical medium between the twain. subordinate router has the mac address, encryption type, ssid, credentials and channel setting of the boss. reboot and done.
pretty much the same type of bridging as with DD-WRT [though it has a lot more options... more confusing]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, so its more of a repeater setup. The routers are not connected to each other via Ethernet or powerline?
Step 3 of that article is what I wanted you to read. Its on the 2nd page. (Though I do suggest reading the whole of both pages)
nataku199 said:
I really think that the GS3 modems aren't that good, especially when it comes to wifi calling. My family and I haven been having some bad signal problems as of late so we've been relying on wifi calling to make calls. I had a lot of dropped calls in the past but I knew that had a lot to do with the old modem/router setup I was using. I would lose internet connection not matter what I was on. The internet would just drop and then reconnect, very frustrating if you were on a call or playing Xbox live. so last week I hooked up a new Comcast modem with wifi. The drops stopped but I still have to literally be standing right next to the modem if I wanted to make sure I didn't lose a call. If I walked into the kitchen, which is 15ft away, I'd get the little beep that warns that I'm about to lose the wifi signal. I know my signal that's coming from the router is good because all my devices, including the phone says so. Hell, the kids across the street asked if they could have the password because their internet was shut off and my signal is strong over there.
I don't have anything technical to support what I say, just experience but that experience tells me that Tmobile's wifi calling doesn't work that well unless your within 3 ft of the router.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make sure you don't have a bottleneck somewhere on your network. (Such as a misconfigured router, a docsis 1.0 cable modem, etc.) Or as I stated before, if you have a wireless g device active on your network, it'll force the whole network to degrade to wireless g speeds. Also use inssider to check if you are on the best channel. And check for any points of interference. (Microwaves, cordless phones, power hungry appliances, etc)
If your cell signal went south recently, it may be due to the work tmobile has been doing. What worked best before, may not anymore. Try out the many other available modems to see if it improves.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
---------- Post added at 05:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:06 PM ----------
Thos is a copy/paste of the text I was referring to.
(Starting under step 3)
But most wireless clients are very "sticky" and tend to stay associated to the first AP they encounter,*even when APs with stronger signals are available. So I recommend setting a*different SSID*for the AP, so that you can manually control connection.The other advantage of setting a different SSID for the AP is that you'll be able to see both the AP and your main wireless router if you're using the Wireless Zero Configuration utility that is built into Windows. Even in Vista, Microsoft has stubbornly chosen to not show multiple wireless networks that use the same Network Name / SSID.
4) Set the AP channel
One large network practice that you*do*want to follow is to set the AP to a different channel than the main wireless router. In the U.S. you should use only the non-overlapping channels*1, 6 and 11. So if your main wireless router is set to channel 6, set the AP to either 1 or 11.You should probably do a quick site-survey first (see this HowTo), to make sure that you aren't setting the AP channel to one used by a neighbor's network. If you can't find a completely clear channel, choose the*weakest*neighboring network and set the AP to its channel.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
I'll look into it.
Thanx