In need of sony ericsson xperia play logicboard / motherboard! - Xperia Play Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

hey guys, im in urgent need of a xperia play logic board, because my sim card slot is damaged due to a bent pin, can anyone that is striping their play and selling parts please pm me

Wouldn't it be far easier to just wire up the bent pin directly?

what do you mean? the actual pin is acctually like fullly bent and riped off.

technolust109 said:
what do you mean? the actual pin is acctually like fullly bent and riped off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean that you would make and attach a wire or something else to make the connection because it would actually be easier and cheaper than taking the whole phone apart and anyone with a soldering iron could do it. Now, that I have seen that the sim contacts are actually on a module, I see that you can just buy that module and not replace the entire motherboard.

sure? because its the sd card module that comes apart, not the sim slot, and if im to soder a wire, it means i need to unsoder the metal plate thats repaining the sim like the cop covering.

technolust109 said:
sure? because its the sd card module that comes apart, not the sim slot, and if im to soder a wire, it means i need to unsoder the metal plate thats repaining the sim like the cop covering.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see. I thought they were on the same module considering their proximity. If it means avoiding buying a new motherboard, I'd rip the plate off before I bought another.

hmm true true, would you know where to buy a new logic board?

Logic board? This isn't Apple dude. We don't use made-up names for parts to sound cool.
Anyway, if you check your local craigslist you might be able to find people selling broken ones for parts. Or perhaps Ebay. I've bought replacement parts for a LOT of electronics on Ebay.
And as CZroe said, you could probably just replace the module instead of the whole board, or if it's not part of a module, solder a small piece of wire.
Sent from Silent Earth 3

alright, ill see, i dont think theres a craiglist in australia? haha but ill see, ill probably be going with sodering a wire onto the connectors.
Thanks anyway. and motherboard haha sorry.

captain67 said:
Logic board? This isn't Apple dude. We don't use made-up names for parts to sound cool.
Anyway, if you check your local craigslist you might be able to find people selling broken ones for parts. Or perhaps Ebay. I've bought replacement parts for a LOT of electronics on Ebay.
And as CZroe said, you could probably just replace the module instead of the whole board, or if it's not part of a module, solder a small piece of wire.
Sent from Silent Earth 3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"Logic board" is actually a pretty old name for any circuit board containing logic circuitry and components (doesn't need to be a "printed" circuit board or "PCB"). I hear it more often when talking about devices and "motherboard" more often when talking about PCs. I hear mainboard more often with older large appliances (think: "TV" or "arcade machine"). "Backplane" or "planar board" were actually really common ways to refer to a PC motherboard at one time!

CZroe said:
"Logic board" is actually a pretty old name for any circuit board containing logic circuitry and components (doesn't need to be a "printed" circuit board or "PCB"). I hear it more often when talking about devices and "motherboard" more often when talking about PCs. I hear mainboard more often with older large appliances (think: "TV" or "arcade machine"). "Backplane" or "planar board" were actually really common ways to refer to a PC motherboard at one time!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mainboard ive always called it
Sent from my R800i using Tapatalk

haha, i call it motherboard haha but yehs, so you rekon sodering a piece of wire or something wouldnt hurt it?

Provided you do a fine enough solder job, and it's conductive enough, I assume it would work.
On my old iPod mini, the molex connector for the button panel broke because those models had a defect in the design. I had to use a large magnifying glass on a stand (like what wristwatch repair guys use) and a sewing needle attached to a soldering iron to fix it.
You may need to do something similar.
Sent from Silent Earth 3

outch, thats going to be painful.. you think repair shops will be able to repair it?

Possibly, but in my experience repair can be expensive.
Sent from Silent Earth 3

what was your problem? how much it costed?

That fix I did on my iPod mini was quoted at over 100 dollars at a repair shop, for both parts and labor. I fixed it myself without any replacement parts in an hour.
Sent from Silent Earth 3

wow... but the thing is im scared of burning any of the parts with the sodering iron. and what wire would i need?

I'd take a wire of similar width to the pin, and flatten it so it's the same shape and size.
If you do the soldering a little bit at a time, and don't hold the iron on too long, it should be ok.
Sent from Silent Earth 3

alright, thanks for the tip, so basically all i need is a sodering iron, piece of wire and side cutters to shape the wire?

Related

SX66 Broken Touch Screen

Alright... so the other day i take my sx66 out of my pocket, only to see the touch screen cracked... the phone still works, most of the time, and you can still use like half of the screen. So i need to know, how hard is it to actually change out touch screens. Ive heard it is difficult, and would really like to know how to do it.
Thanks
-Greg
bigbluemnm said:
Alright... so the other day i take my sx66 out of my pocket, only to see the touch screen cracked... the phone still works, most of the time, and you can still use like half of the screen. So i need to know, how hard is it to actually change out touch screens. Ive heard it is difficult, and would really like to know how to do it.
Thanks
-Greg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We can repair the system for you. We do not have DIY kits for the TS repair though.
http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main~u...epairs-Full+Service+Repairs~item~XDA-TS03.htm
wow, wayyyy to expensive... you can almost buy another unit for that... i mean, i can buy the touch screen for ~$40, and do it myself. i heard it requires some soldering, and what else?
bigbluemnm said:
wow, wayyyy to expensive... you can almost buy another unit for that... i mean, i can buy the touch screen for ~$40, and do it myself. i heard it requires some soldering, and what else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can do it yourself. We've had people do it before. Some are successful, most end up causing more damage and have to ship it in anyway.
Here are some tips:
First, double-check the new TS. There are few different mfg of the TS. Some that we evaluated have fibers & dirt between the layers of the TS.
Be very careful with the flex cable coming off of the LCD. It runs through the slide mechanism and tears easily. You'll need to remove the LCM assembly from the top cover/slide assembly.
Use a soldering iron to desolder the TS cable from the back of the flex cable of the LCD. Use a xacto knife or something similiar to seperate the TS from the frame of the LCD. Usually the TS will shatter during this process. If you push the blade in too far, you'll scratch the top of the LCD which cannot be repaired. If you get the glue from the seal of the TS onto the LCD, you'll need to use 99.9% alcohol to clean the top of the LCD using a microfibre cloth. Having tweezers handy helps.
When you go to install the TS, start at the top and then slowly lower it onto the frame of the LCD. Do not push it all the way down. You'll probably have several bits of dust and debris that has been attracted to the TS. You'll need to have moisture free air to gently blow out the dust before pressing down and sealing the TS. We actually use grade 5 nitrogen to blow out the area.
When resoldering the cable do not apply too much heat since the mylar of the cable melts easily.
Hopefully with these tips and others on the board, you'll be successful.
thet doesnt sound hard at all. last night i already took it all apart, and didnt mess up anything. so hopefully i can get a new ts and get it back on without damaging anything. thanks so much for the info.
I got something really weird..
I have opened the unit and checked the configuration..
The old TS versus the new TS is totaly opposite?
Old 1 2 3 4
New 4 3 2 1
Pin configuration..
I manage to hook it up but it won't get pass the alignment screen.. is there a way to re-teach it?
Please help..
nique said:
I got something really weird..
I have opened the unit and checked the configuration..
The old TS versus the new TS is totaly opposite?
Old 1 2 3 4
New 4 3 2 1
Pin configuration..
I manage to hook it up but it won't get pass the alignment screen.. is there a way to re-teach it?
Please help..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it will not align, then the pins are hooked up out of order or the TS is defective.
The interesting thing, there are different touchscreens, have different pinouts. The most important thing (from my experience) is to connect pairs properly. So, you have on touchscreen top, bottom (vertical pair), left and right (horizontal pair). If you'll look at touchscreen, you'll see how your cable is wired to glass/film. At first, you definitely need to put pairs properly. vertical to vertical (on board) and horizontal to horizontal. If you'll mix up wires - you'll fail calibration procedure.
By the way: if you'll mix up top and bottom or left and right - touchscreen will work and pass calibration. Of course, calibration values in registry will be hmm... other, than usual, but touchscreen will work.
If you have multimeter, you can easily check your tuuchscreen. Horizontal pair should be 250..400 Ohm, vertical - 300..800 Ohm. If your touchscreen is not tapped, there should be infinity (not connected) resistance between pairs.
Where can you buy replacement touchscreens or housings?
ebay. search for all the different models and use worlds like broke, dead, fix repair, etc. And if you buy the right touch screen then you don't need to do any soldering. It's a really simple job. The hardest part is the disasembly, but just take your time and for god sakes tape all your screws to a white peice of paper and label them :roll: i can't tell you how many integral screws i've lost doing stuff like this.
alright, so im getting ready to buy a new TS... the SN of my phone is... HT509D615597. so what TS would i need?
this one...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...10024651851&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1
or this one...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ryProximity&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget
Thanks!!

blueangel glassdisplay cracked!

i've got this big ass crack on my display last night. the touchfunction dosn't work so I can't press my PINcode to access the telephone. how, where and how much can i replace the display?
gnops said:
i've got this big ass crack on my display last night. the touchfunction dosn't work so I can't press my PINcode to access the telephone. how, where and how much can i replace the display?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best price I've seen for the touchscreen is on ebay. But, there are a few catches...
First issue: There are two different LCD/touchscreen assemblies that were used on the angel. One is made by Sony, the other by Toppoly. The touchscreen or LCD from one can not be used on the other due to programming and physical layout.
Second issue (and this is probably the biggest): The way they touch screen and the LCD are connected is a major pain in the arse to fix. It's a plastic ribbon cable that has been soldered to a point on another ribbon cable. Unless you are very good at soldering, it's not something I'd attempt due to the largish chance of melting the cables and making things worse, not to mention the potential to hurt the LCD itself.
If you look in the wiki under the hacks and tweaks, the Technical Stuff (including disassembly) link has two pages to look at:
Blue Angel/PPC6600 Disassembling Procedure with Pictures
Blue Angel Spare Screen
While they are not the best pictures, the last image under the disassembling section shows the ribbon cables I'm referring to, and the touchscreen assembly picture for the spare screen page shows a sony touchscreen ribbon cable detached from the LCD cable, which will show the connection points I'm referring to.
I've got this exact issue as well on my O2 branded angel. Due to the cost of a new LCD/touchscreen assembly (almost the cost of a working angel), I'm considering trying to solder a new touchscreen. If I ruin it, well, I've got parts for the next one I get.
I replaced a touch sreen today, its not that bad if you have soldered before. Unfortunatly the screen i got of ebay is not perfect and will need replacing. I have contacted the seller to see if he will send me another one.
Its worth doing!
Gary
Dimlow_uk said:
I replaced a touch sreen today, its not that bad if you have soldered before. Unfortunatly the screen i got of ebay is not perfect and will need replacing. I have contacted the seller to see if he will send me another one.
Its worth doing!
Gary
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've soldered plenty of times (a bit out of practice tho), but never something like that.
Any tips and suggestions? My main worry is melting the ribbon cables.
Well, no real tips, just take you time and don't rush it. The plastic can stand quite a bit of heat, i never managed to melt it, The job looks harder that it realy is. you will need a steady hand! Also , taping the connector down before you solder helps.
Gary
Dimlow_uk said:
Well, no real tips, just take you time and don't rush it. The plastic can stand quite a bit of heat, i never managed to melt it, The job looks harder that it realy is. you will need a steady hand! Also , taping the connector down before you solder helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, that's good to know. The plastic didn't look all that durable, but if it's stouter than it looks, I may check with the house controller (aka CFO aka my wife ) and see if we can spare the dosh to pick one up.
I have to be careful as she wants it once it's fixed!
how do i separate touch screen and lcd? i only need to solder the new touch screen, right?
any help? thanks
pVilaça said:
how do i separate touch screen and lcd? i only need to solder the new touch screen, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a disassembly guide in the wiki.
What kind of screwdrivers are needed to remove those tiny screws on the LCD/ digitizer casing. I have 2 SX66's with broken LCDs and one with a broken digitizer. Time for some repairs.
jdc said:
The best price I've seen for the touchscreen is on ebay. But, there are a few catches...
First issue: There are two different LCD/touchscreen assemblies that were used on the angel. One is made by Sony, the other by Toppoly. The touchscreen or LCD from one can not be used on the other due to programming and physical layout.
Second issue (and this is probably the biggest): The way they touch screen and the LCD are connected is a major pain in the arse to fix. It's a plastic ribbon cable that has been soldered to a point on another ribbon cable. Unless you are very good at soldering, it's not something I'd attempt due to the largish chance of melting the cables and making things worse, not to mention the potential to hurt the LCD itself.
If you look in the wiki under the hacks and tweaks, the Technical Stuff (including disassembly) link has two pages to look at:
Blue Angel/PPC6600 Disassembling Procedure with Pictures
Blue Angel Spare Screen
While they are not the best pictures, the last image under the disassembling section shows the ribbon cables I'm referring to, and the touchscreen assembly picture for the spare screen page shows a sony touchscreen ribbon cable detached from the LCD cable, which will show the connection points I'm referring to.
I've got this exact issue as well on my O2 branded angel. Due to the cost of a new LCD/touchscreen assembly (almost the cost of a working angel), I'm considering trying to solder a new touchscreen. If I ruin it, well, I've got parts for the next one I get.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey MATE!! damn why didnt i ask this before!!!
i have the o2 xda IIs.. same problem, display works fine.. but tapping doesnt! after it was dropped!
Now, i got a guy to get a spare MDA T-mobile (blueangel) which doesnt work, but its lcd/touchscreen works.. i connected that LCD to my O2, it didnt WORK! how can i differentiate b/w the two LCDS?
i mean, how can i know that the LCD is made by Toppoly or Sony?! that'd be a great HELP!
SyNcViEw said:
i mean, how can i know that the LCD is made by Toppoly or Sony?! that'd be a great HELP!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Part numbers on the back or the cable design.
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=BlueangelLCD
TD035STED1
this is the code written behind my LCD. I have the O2 XDA IIs.
Is there anything else I need to look at aswell? or should I just buy a LCD with that code?!
SyNcViEw said:
TD035STED1
this is the code written behind my LCD. I have the O2 XDA IIs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. Looks like the LCD used varies depending on when the phone was made.
My O2 has the Sony LCD.
SyNcViEw said:
Is there anything else I need to look at aswell? or should I just buy a LCD with that code?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cables and the wiki. The link I posted shows the difference between the two.
And yes, you will have to get the same LCD assembly/glass cover as what you have now. The two are not interchangeable.
There is a tool set you can purchase at radioshack that has the proper tip. Its a cheaply made tool but does the job. It is one of the kits with many bits. It would be the star tip. You can also order the tool online. I've taken mine apart a few times. Its sort of a pain but gets easier the more times you do it (replaced my screen three times). I have however, never been able to get the touch to work again because I can't really see how I would be able to solder such a fine ribbon. Ive had my mogul for almost a year and if my memory serves me the metallic strips are only about an 1/8th of an inch thick or less. I got lazy and put a piece of tape across the ribbon and put a small amount of glue to hold it down. Still didnt work. Didn't really expect it to either, but it was worth a shot. I turned it into insurance said I lost it and ended up with a broken 6600 and when I called to complain they sent me a mogul. So it's been awhile but I loved the phone. Hope this helps out.
dont scare the people
it can be replaced in 15 minutes with proper tools (screwdrivers)
i ve found some russian manual with pictures how to disasemble the BA (just look for it on the net) and its very easy, no need for soldering
there are 2 versions of displays, one have silver ribbon and the other have golden
when you opet your BA you ll see the display and the ribbon, also there is serial number of the display so you can check it too... all BA displays on the ebay have info about the ribbon and the serial number
I bought it for about 30$ and works perfectly, as original one...
buy digitizer and screen in one piece
you have to be total noob to have problems with changing of the display, so go for it !
If you are planning to replace the digitiser YES you do need to some fine soldering, all you need is the correct soldering iron tip for fine soldering and it is possible, done it about 4 times so far and everytime I promise myself not to brake it again but hahaha,
You can buy the LCD + digitiser together if you are unable to do soldering,
I use a razor which i took out from my shaver and thats what I use to seperate digitiser from lcd.
There are very cheap digitiser panels on EBAY, However some of these are not so good and ( digitiser is a 2 layer glass assy.) sometimes little area of this 2 layers stick together making touch screen non responsive.
Alternative is look out for spares, repairs sales if the screen is good buy it replace it, if you are a novice when it comes to these things, just take your time and dont rush it, even if it helps make little notes when you are opning the device as it ll make it easy when it comes to puting it back together.
And if you can get your hands on one keep a spare screen
Im sooo sad
I just cracked my screen I really hope I get a replacement cus I got more attached to my BA ever since I found out I could upgrade it. I thought it was not a biggie crashing it because I have dropped so many times and nothing happened but today something happened...
screen is 30$ at ebay, and no need to be sad, in few days it can be fixed

MotherBoard Replacement

hello guys
can any one help me to find a website sells one m8 motherboard
also any body tried to replace it himself ?
my phone was droped in water ...
No one :|
.....
Eiad Ajam said:
hello guys
can any one help me to find a website sells one m8 motherboard
also any body tried to replace it himself ?
my phone was droped in water ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it is doable, but still messy. Battery is placed UNDER the logic board which means you'll have to take it completely apart. It involves some heating, because both speaker covers are glued on with an adhesive, and only then you can start unscrewing the front. The logic board is connected with a staggering 10 (yes, ten) cables. After you remove the logic board, you'll have to be very careful with removing the battery, since it too is held in place with some adhesive to the back of the LCD screen.
Parts availability on the other hand is a different story. Battery should not be so hard to get I guess... I had to replace the logic board so I had all my berserker skills invested in finding that. Still very hard to get a logic board, at least for any other make than the Verizon. I was lucky to get my hands on with a little help from a friend that works at a HTC service center. Other than that, you'll just have to get creative I'm afraid.
Replacing the motherboard is pretty simple, the hardest part is actually getting to it. Removing the back is a pain in the butt.
You can buy all the parts you need at etradesupply.
The speaker grills come over easily. Then there are 2 phillips and 4 t4/5 screws. Pry it open(Watch some videos for some tips)
For the main motherboard I believe there are 6 ribbon cables attached to the main board, and another 3 attached to the sister board.
If you're technologically inclined and can use a screwdriver you should be fine.
xxquicksh0txx said:
Replacing the motherboard is pretty simple, the hardest part is actually getting to it. Removing the back is a pain in the butt.
You can buy all the parts you need at etradesupply.
The speaker grills come over easily. Then there are 2 phillips and 4 t4/5 screws. Pry it open(Watch some videos for some tips)
For the main motherboard I believe there are 6 ribbon cables attached to the main board, and another 3 attached to the sister board.
If you're technologically inclined and can use a screwdriver you should be fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you for your reply
my problem was i couldn't find any site selling the m8 motherboard
even etradesupply not have it

Need Lock Bar/Clamp for LCD connector

I have Galaxy SM-P600 (2014 edition) which was the victim of poor repair at local shop... Now back has popped off and since the tech(???) did not glue down screen and it slipped and locking bar on mother board connector for LDC connector was damaged and popped out of "connector" and lost....
My question is where can I get replacement "lock bar" ... Rest of table is fine, just no screen becasue of no clamp bar on LCD connector...
Or is there a repair that may be not official but workable?
Dale M.
Hello Dale,
What you want is LCD´s FPC conector lock, and that´s hard to find.. Made a quick search on aliexpress, but couldn´t find it. I have bought lots of fpc connector from this seller , contact them, maybe they have what you want, but unlisted.
There´s an ugly repair you can do, but require good soldering skills: You can solder lcd flex directly to main board, not a task for begginers. I have seen some connectors like yours "fixed" with duct tape, it seems to work for a while.
Thank you for the reply... Looking closer, one pin on motherboard part of connector is damaged so I would guess its toast.... Unless I can get another motherboard, but that doesn't seem practical... The cost of this it ridiculous as it was $550 (purchase price) to begin with and I have another $235 after the first accident, now this..... Think I may just have to walk away from this...
Again thank you...
Dale
Just looking for a used or bad motherboard on ebay, then remove the connector and solder it to yours. It requires skills and equipment to this re work.
May be just look for another mainboard, depending on luck, I see someone list the used one for over $100.
Dale M. said:
Thank you for the reply... Looking closer, one pin on motherboard part of connector is damaged so I would guess its toast.... Unless I can get another motherboard, but that doesn't seem practical... The cost of this it ridiculous as it was $550 (purchase price) to begin with and I have another $235 after the first accident, now this..... Think I may just have to walk away from this...
Again thank you...
Dale
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
usually beggining and end pins are ground, so it shouldn´t be a problem. just need a multimeter to check it out. if you spent $235, I guess you had to replace LCD. take it to the guy that made the mess, and tell him to work it out.
It is not going back to that person.... Bought a new one, I like the tab so well, and was trying to salvage this one....
Might watch for 32k machine with broken screen and maybe get something going, but for now its a basket case....
Originally I was going to do screen repair myself, now I wished I had...
Dale
Dale M. said:
It is not going back to that person.... Bought a new one, I like the tab so well, and was trying to salvage this one....
Dale
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is an used motherboard, you can replace it by yourself . I can take out the motherboard within 5 minutes as it has only 3 screws on two speakers to hold it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAMSUNG-GAL...-07719A-USA-/331575405067?hash=item4d336f2a0b
Or this one, a completed tablet with flickering screen, this problem can fix easily by re solder the battery connector. You can use the motherboard and keep extra parts like LCD asssembly. An used LCD assembly can sell for $150 easily.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...let-SM-P600-/281797325335?hash=item419c6df217
Thank you for that information...
Cheers!
Dale

Dropped phone, no damage but no sound/mic. Only thing loose inside was video camera and this..

Dropped the phone and no damage to the actual unit, but no sound and no microphone were working. And the camera app crashed when switching to video. the video camera was loose so i plugged that back but the only other thing i can see that is *damaged* was this little thing that came loose. I can't think what else might have happened.
Anyone have any ideas? This really can't be the lynchpin for sound in the phone
Any drop sufficient to do all that could damage traces on the mobo, crack solder joints even internally damage chipsets.
Always use a good case to keep G force loading from a fall in a survivable range.
blackhawk said:
Any drop sufficient to do all that could damage traces on the mobo, crack solder joints even internally damage chipsets.
Always use a good case to keep G force loading from a fall in a survivable range.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only issues i face are:
No sound
No Mic
Headphones won't register.
The coax cables are all in, everything "looks" normal but that one little thing in the picture. Surely there would be more noticable damage, or more issues with the phone. All disassembly videos are either not in english or not the Mi 10 Lite
It may be a simple issue.
Many of the conductors and semiconductors are measured in microns on the chipsets. Hundreds of thousands of them... and more.
That was certainly enough force to fracture solder joints. Even with visible solder jionts detecting cracks can be extremely hard to do.
There's no way to even examine BGA chipset solder joints. You can try gently flexing the mobo to see if you can find the fault but even if you localize it... fixing it may prove much harder if it's even possible to do.
blackhawk said:
It may be a simple issue.
Many of the conductors and semiconductors are measured in microns on the chipsets. Hundreds of thousands of them... and more.
That was certainly enough force to fracture solder joints. Even with visible solder jionts detecting cracks can be extremely hard to do.
There's no way to even examine BGA chipset solder joints. You can try gently flexing the mobo to see if you can find the fault but even if you localize it... fixing it may prove much harder if it's even possible to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Balls. My next step is to buy a new speaker unit for the bottom as i think that is where it landed and might make sense for the headphone jack to no register etc. Though why that would effect the top speaker i don't know. Would rather fix than bin since the camera is hard to beat without going up in price and there is absolutely nothing else wrong. Such dumb luck
Yeah... John Wicked the phone.
The case is the only thing that's saved me. I'll go for months with no drops then...
Might be easier to get a professional estimate on the repair. Replacing it may be a better option for you especially if the mobo is damaged.
Keep it as a parts queen.
blackhawk said:
Yeah... John Wicked the phone.
The case is the only thing that's saved me. I'll go for months with no drops then...
Might be easier to get a professional estimate on the repair. Replacing it may be a better option for you especially if the mobo is damaged.
Keep it as a parts queen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeh i put my bag on and didnt know the zip was open. It's either buy the same phone, for £30 more as it was on offer, sell this for "it kind of works 70%" Or i could just get a bluetooth headset for calling
neiltring said:
yeh i put my bag on and didnt know the zip was open. It's either buy the same phone, for £30 more as it was on offer, sell this for "it kind of works 70%" Or i could just get a bluetooth headset for calling
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BT works well for calls on the 10+, it's what I use most of the time.
Another same model is a great option if you really like that model.
I got a 2nd new 10+ last week as a backup.
Without a good case my 10+ been long dead by now though. Lots of accidental drops on concrete... it's going to happen.

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