ive looked around for ways to do what ive done here and have not found any evidence that it has been successful. I just figured that if i havent found it on the net, i might as well post my mod to see if anyone is interested in my design please send feedback. Oh yeah, and i made this for my galaxy tab 10.1, but i dont see any reason why it wouldnt work with my wii console. It cost me about 20 bucks and took a couple of hours so there's still room for improvement such as paint and lighting mods. Ive got pics on my album.
Hey fuzwood,
You were able to fit a wiimote in a classic controller pro?
I only heard of one other person doing this but he wasn't helpful
Can you share your designs?
Sure. What exactly would you like to know?
What cables on the classic controller get soldered to what ports on the wiimote?
I apologize for the long delay for my response. Once you dissasemble both controllers so that you have both IC's visible, you will notice that the plugs, both male and female, will have an obvious defining shape to them... a rectangular shape with a notch missing. Cut the wire a few inches back from the plug on the wiimote wire and then remove just the outer insulation. If I remember correctly, there are 5 wires, each a seperate color. Now, like with any mod I do involving wiring, NEVER unsoldier all the wires at the same time, always one by one as you replace them with the new one. In this case, you don't have to remove any wires off of the short plug end you just cut. Now, it's as simple as comparing the shape of the two plug ends... the one still attached to the IC of the classic controller, and the one you just cut off of the wiimote, and after cutting the rest of the wiimote wire down to you preferd length, remove the plug on the classic controller (unsolder) and solder each wire directly to the classic controlller IC. Make sure you remember the direction of the plug on the classic controller... it may help to draw a diagram.... and hold them next to each other as if you were plugging them together, not looking straight into each plug, otherwise you will solder everything 180 degrees mirrored from what it should be. Try not to get the IC too hot while soldering as this is the case in any similar situation, and pay close attention as to not let the solder touch on the back sde of the circuitry. Anyway, now I feel odd considering I just wrote a whole page in response to a simple question... I got carried away. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask, and my next response will be far more shorter.
Hah, immediately after post my last respone, I relized my mistake. Obviously the wire is part of the classic controller and not the wiimote so as I refer to each part, do everything the same except keep in mind that I was refering to both parts backwards.
Related
http://www.mobilefun.co.uk/product/7862.htm
Wonder how securely it will hold the phone? If it's solid it would make a good car holder by sticking it to the dash and just clipping the phone in when needed.
Here too: http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=126238&asource=119353
Expansys USA just shipped a couple of these to me. I should have it tomorrow (Tue)
Ditto.
this looks nice, but wish it showed more pictures. It is only 18.95 on expansys-usa. Please let us know how you like it!
A pretty simple cradle. It has a single USB port jack that accepts either a USB connection (which also charges the Universal) or the AC/DC jack. But doesn't replicate any of the other ports (for example, the headphone jack is covered up when in the cradle). It also has a notch to allow you to access the stylus if it is still in the unit while cradled. But it is still difficult to pull out. There is also a hole to balance your stylus in when not in use.
It has a single blue light on the front whose sole purpose appears to be to tell you if the cradle is plugged in. This light is on all the time and doesn't change (so far). The lights on the Universal itself still determine charge status.
The Universal lays flat in the cradle. However, you have to be careful when pushing it in. The height of the USB port on the Universal and the recepticle in the cradle are off by about half a millimeter. You kind of have to look at it and maneuver it while guiding the USB pieces together. You can't really just lay the cradle in and push.
It costs $19 US and, well, is worth about that. Useful to keep your Universal from flopping around your desk while connected (which, to be fair, is pretty useful considering how much the Universal costs), but not much more than that. Nothing fancy.
Mine arrived today. Deeper than I thought. fixed with 2 double sided tabs.
Any ideas how to hide the cable? It's a company car and I don't want to hack it about.
Is it really ok to drive about with the flip cover open? I suspect long term bumps from the road may damage it prematurely. Any thoughts?
k_kirk said:
Is it really ok to drive about with the flip cover open? I suspect long term bumps from the road may damage it prematurely. Any thoughts?
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I like it but it does need some sort of "spring" to absorb the bumbs. Looking at it, a piece of (stainless) steel bent like a "U" would help give it some spring - depending on the gauge, that is.
Ive been plagued by the thought that the damn dock should...by all accounts have a USB out. Now I suppose that it may have came down to a decision point of "Which is the more likely scenario... audio out or USB to a computer out", but I find myself squarely in the "dont care about audio" side of that debate.
The idea would be to crack this little sucker open, see whats inside and (hopefully) take the micro-usb connection that it has out the back of the dock with a new tip.
Now that Ive opened it up, I believe I can get there. I'll tinker around with it in the next few days to verify things like theres no "control" (or similar) signal running through the USB connections from a power perspective and whatnot. If I can do it, it will be my intent to make it look as stock as I can and I'll be sure to post any walkthroughs, pics, etc that somebody else might want.
To open it up, you have to remove the rubber pad from the bottom. Its got a lot of adhesive on it and (at least in my case) looks like something that I can successfully stick back on.
Under that, you'll find what appears to be depressions in the plastic bottom. Take a utility knife (or similar) and cut around the edges of the depressions. They are part of a plastic film that I saw absolutely no reason to be afraid of removing.
Once the holes are exposed, you'll need a T4 bit to remove the screws. Then you can just open it up.
Thats the extent of my exploration so far...
Heres a pic:
While you are at it...
Would you mind checking which of the connectors for charging is (+) and which is (-)? If I am really trying to build that alternative charger connector then I'll need to know. Thanks man!
funnycreature said:
Would you mind checking which of the connectors for charging is (+) and which is (-)? If I am really trying to build that alternative charger connector then I'll need to know. Thanks man!
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The power is run to the right pin, if you were just starring at the device from the front.
gigglebox said:
The power is run to the right pin, if you were just starring at the device from the front.
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This will come in handy when the time is right! :thumb up:
as far as i can tell all you would need to do is make sure there is enuff room and put a male to female cable inside. No need to mess with the board inside.
I think you've got a great idea. Any Progress yet.
Thanks for posting this picture. I'm going to do a straightforward mod by simply drilling a hole out the backside of the dock, running the wire through the hole and soldering the leads together. This method keeps me from having to dremel an exact fit USB-A connection and providing an internal support for the port.
Oooooh yeah, mine will be ghetto rigged tonight. I'll order a female mini USB socket from digikey or somewhere to make it a little better in the future - but for tonight its getting hacked together.
Thanks for the pic, it was just enough encouragement to take it apart.
I'm tempted to buy the cradle, is there any way you can take a picture of the front and back of the PCB, I'm curious if there are existing pads for the USB cable.
I'm also curious about the possibility of adding a micro HDMI connection to the standard dock to make a "Swiss Army" dock, those pictures would help be get a better idea if I should buy this dock or the HDMI dock.
I don't understand why Moto didn't make a dock with power, HDMI, USB, and headphone. Then you can keep everything hooked to the dock and add/remove the device as desired. This is how most PC docks work. Is there a technical issue that would preclude all ports being brought out from the bottom connections (understanding the devices headphone jack is on the top)??
A design issue I see as far as wear and tear is the lack of docking "keys" built into the bottom of the device to aid in port alignment. It seems like getting the right alignment will be hit and miss and could put undo stress on the ports.
You were using a nail clipper to open it?
If I spend the cash for a moto brand dock, I am going to add a fullsize USB/HDMI and power to it. There is no excuse for not including these.
Do it and post the instructions, I want
Sent from my MZ604 using Tapatalk
ive modded my dock to have a usb in so i can use the dock and have my hard drive connected at the same time you can check it out @
forum.androidcentral.com/showthread.php?p=835069&posted=1#post835069
Hi, I'm bumping this thread to ask if there's any chip or so in the dock to control the audio? I would lika to make a microUSB to 3.5mm cable to avoid the distrubances from the wifi in the badly insulated headphone-port.
I imagine there must be since usb is a digital signal and headphones use analog signals. Maybe I should go all the way and make a pocket amp instead
Thanks
Happened to come across this business card holder in the store and it holds the Galaxy Nexus perfectly. The mesh spacing is also almost the same width as the pogo connections, so I'm looking into modding this into a pogo dock.
http://www.officemax.com/office-furniture/desk-accessories-organizers/product-prod2980161
Just wondering what everyone has been using for their pogo pin contacts? I've seen mentions of guitar string, push pins, and screws from other threads here. I plan to solder the ends of the USB wires to the contact, then hot glue them in place on the holder (which also will insulate them from the mesh so I don't get any shorts).
I'm also thinking of making a slightly raised section on the right side that lines up with the power button so that I can push the phone down slightly to hit power, since I don't want the screen on constantly while in the dock.
you might want to check here for info on enabling the middle pin to get AC charge and Desk/Car mode.
As for docks, I'm using a case, so i'm going to start work this week on moding my case to make pins accessible from the outside.
Pogo pins from yokowo, lined up with the official stand/extra battery charger.
Is there anyway to get these in the US? I'm not near their 2 stores here and I don't see anything about ordering online. I'd prefer to use something like this that's actually made for it rather than have to ghetto rig something
ldp_frog said:
Is there anyway to get these in the US? I'm not near their 2 stores here and I don't see anything about ordering online. I'd prefer to use something like this that's actually made for it rather than have to ghetto rig something
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I think ghetto rigging something is the only way to go with the pogo contacts. There arent many accessories that make use of the contacts and dont think Samsung or anyone else is going to be coming out with anything new as newer phones come out. I hope as it seems like it is an awesome way to charge the device but think you have to check out the DIY sticky thread at the top of this forum to get better ideas. GL
This may be a odd question, but i broke the little plug for the cooling fan (which sucked anyway) off my ouya console. everything still works fine on it, but i was wondering where the best spot or if its possible to solder LEDS/12V fans/ETC right to the ouya board. i saw in a case mod video (the crazy cool metal case one episode 3 i think) where the video shows him soldering red leds straight to the console. if someone has a tutorial or something on how to do this that'd be awesome. Only other question i guess i have is do i really need a fan, seeing as the tegras are in tablets that have no real ventilation or fans. thanks for any help
xxsnuggl3sxx said:
This may be a odd question, but i broke the little plug for the cooling fan (which sucked anyway) off my ouya console. everything still works fine on it, but i was wondering where the best spot or if its possible to solder LEDS/12V fans/ETC right to the ouya board. i saw in a case mod video (the crazy cool metal case one episode 3 i think) where the video shows him soldering red leds straight to the console. if someone has a tutorial or something on how to do this that'd be awesome. Only other question i guess i have is do i really need a fan, seeing as the tegras are in tablets that have no real ventilation or fans. thanks for any help
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You should be able to solder the original fan wires directly to the mainboard (or extend them then solder) - just be sure you practice first so as not to break your OUYA and be sure to get the polarity correct (i.e. the red lead is positive and black negative). The fan socket is only one way, so its pretty hard to miss which way it goes in. Failing all else, you can use a multimeter with continutiy checking to check and see which of the fan connector pins is ground (negative) by putting one probe on one of the pins and one on the shielding for the network port - if it the multimeter shows a connection between the two - you've found the negative pole for the fan..the other will obviously be positive.
Depending on the fan, mixing up the input and output of the fan could either screw something up, make no difference, or make the fan run backwards.
So my FTV came in today (it was free from Giggle points... but still) - Of course, having been around Android for years and always rooting I had to look into it.
It seemed it didn't have new FW until my wife took iota upon herself to set it up and it received the newest update (Wife is an IT person as well - but not interested in hacking devices...)
So I figured, no problem - I'll use the emmc method - I ordered my adapter, but while I waited I thought I would solder up my pins, which is no issue - Soldering is easy.
All points are good, so I figured I would check it out to make sure it still powered up and booted - and low and behold, I'm stuck at the Amazon FireTV logo screen . (and the white led pulsates a bit...). The point where the resister is, I did decoder the entire resistor, so I soldered a wire on the other side and connected it to the other side. Still no luck...
Is there anything I should look at? All solder points are good .... No shorts or anything like that.....
** Edit ** I knew I needed a new solder tip - so now I think I have no more pad on the Resistor point closest to the chip - Usually the Resistors have another connection,. Does anyone know where it connects to as an alternate solder point?
Thanks for any ideas...
PensFan66 said:
So my FTV came in today (it was free from Giggle points... but still) - Of course, having been around Android for years and always rooting I had to look into it.
It seemed it didn't have new FW until my wife took iota upon herself to set it up and it received the newest update (Wife is an IT person as well - but not interested in hacking devices...)
So I figured, no problem - I'll use the emmc method - I ordered my adapter, but while I waited I thought I would solder up my pins, which is no issue - Soldering is easy.
All points are good, so I figured I would check it out to make sure it still powered up and booted - and low and behold, I'm stuck at the Amazon FireTV logo screen . (and the white led pulsates a bit...). The point where the resister is, I did decoder the entire resistor, so I soldered a wire on the other side and connected it to the other side. Still no luck...
Is there anything I should look at? All solder points are good .... No shorts or anything like that.....
** Edit ** I knew I needed a new solder tip - so now I think I have no more pad on the Resistor point closest to the chip - Usually the Resistors have another connection,. Does anyone know where it connects to as an alternate solder point?
Thanks for any ideas...
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Not sure if i got you right, you accedently removed the pad from the PCB?. In that case it is a very importent question which one. As long as you the the firetv booting there is still a clock and and you probably just need to remove the wires you connected as they work as antennas and will confuse the signals on the busses.
If you rely lost the pad (and the firetv isn't booting at all, no blinky led no amazon logo on tv) and it depends which pad is gone. The one where the wiki tells you to solder the clock wire to or the closer to the cpu. Its unlikly that there is another pad between this one and the cpu. You may need to scratch VERY CAREFULLY some of the PCB top away to connect to the wire that lead to the lost pad.
Can you add a picture?
Thanks for the reply....
I toyed around with it last night a bit, and the boot lock must have been caused by that pad and the little connection I had - It would boot to that point but not anywhere past that. Like you said, if its not connected at all the FTV just sits there with no power.
So I can make a connection and currently my FTV works but I have put solder between the two pads. My concern is when IO get my eMMC reader, I need to remove that solder and if this is the last time I can do it (In case I lose what connection I have there) - I was hoping for a backup plan.
I thought about the trace on the PCB, but I don't see one from that Resistor - its odd, not on either side of the PCB - I wasn't sure, but doubted, it may have more than two layers?
I think I have it --- So around the same area there are 4 resistors, and I can see the traces for 3 of them, they go to a capacitor near the CPU. So I logically figured the same for the resistor I no longer have a pad for - In a meter, they theory is correct - so the resistors go to the Capacitor. If I need to, I should be able to go furthest solder pad for the resistor to the capacitor side... With any luck, I can avoid it - but I like a plan B....
PensFan66 said:
I think I have it --- So around the same area there are 4 resistors, and I can see the traces for 3 of them, they go to a capacitor near the CPU. So I logically figured the same for the resistor I no longer have a pad for - In a meter, they theory is correct - so the resistors go to the Capacitor. If I need to, I should be able to go furthest solder pad for the resistor to the capacitor side... With any luck, I can avoid it - but I like a plan B....
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very goodm, you go for it i am rooting for you
PensFan66 said:
... it may have more than two layers?
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I guarantee that it does.
I used to do layout and library support for a living. Now it's just the other way around. Anything with fine pitch BGAs (Ball Grid Arrays) is going to be multi-layer.
This thing has four: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Amazon+Fire+TV+Teardown/23856
iff10 - . Thanks ... With any luck I can avoid it, but if that pad becomes useless, I can't lose anything trying it to the capacitor direct ...
Wellers - Yep, that makes sense - I assumed it had to ... Always a cool design, but makes finding certain paths a little difficult ....