1: Is there a way that i can change the default save location for the camera from my SD to the internal storage? and the 2nd question is just out of curiosity but is there any way that i can extend the range of the wifi chip in the phone? i live out in the sticks and my neighbor lets me use his wifi but its hard for the phone to find it cause its such a weak signal...
It depends. what rom are you using?
For question 1
Sent From My Optimized HTC Incredibly Dinc
For question 2, unfortunately not. Our phones only support wireless b/g. You could get a better signal if it supported wireless n, but that only comes in the newer devices. Sorry.
Zalatorisaurus said:
For question 2, unfortunately not. Our phones only support wireless b/g. You could get a better signal if it supported wireless n, but that only comes in the newer devices. Sorry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't we get N support with the Froyo update? I swear we got N support a while ago lol.
Sent from my Droid Incredible running a random CM7 nightly.
we do have N support htc disables it by default
JoelZ9614 said:
we do have N support htc disables it by default
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is there something that we can enter into terminal if we do have N support? and im using MIUI 1.8.26
1) Pretty much every ROM I've ever used allows you to specify where captured media is saved to.
2) The easiest solution to your wifi problem isn't technical gymnastics with a power-limited device. The easiest solution would be a focused microwave antenna. With a decent focused antenna, you could could pick up that wifi signal for several miles. I've seen it done. You're probably looking at a distance much less than that, which makes your options much cheaper. Plus, it's a much more effective solution than .11N because the signal strength benefit from the focused antenna will yield better throughput over that distance than .11N.
i found a video on youtube that had instructions from a XDA Member it showed something about changing a file in /system/lib/modules and he got the dormant wireless N to work. ill put a link up. http://youtu.be/LXbMf47kXqc
EDIT: i havent found any settings in the MIUI to change the default location... :'(
I can't connect at work, but I used to just the other week. Also, ipod touches and other phones can connect to the network, however, I am unable to.
I CAN connect, however, to any other network that I come across... which is the weird part.
When I try to connect, it says "obtaining IP address..." and doesn't stop trying when my wifi is on, so my battery is drained very quickly, i can feel the phone's temperature rising.
do you guys have any suggestions?
htc says just to hard reset...
thank you for any help!
Are you using any ROM's? Did you update the Radio? Or is this completely stock?
I would look at the security settings and the Wi-Fi sleep policy in the advanced menu and see if you need to tweak any settings. Check the simple stuff before you do a hard reset.
Maybe your work changed their Wi-Fi security policy, I know at my work I have to open the browser and log into the network before I have access.
hey, it's completely stock.
my sleep policy is set to never, and it's NOT on static IP...
i was thinking that my work changed their IP policy, but i used an ipod touch to get on the wifi and it worked fine...
could an app be doing this?
funkpod said:
hey, it's completely stock.
my sleep policy is set to never, and it's NOT on static IP...
i was thinking that my work changed their IP policy, but i used an ipod touch to get on the wifi and it worked fine...
could an app be doing this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Geez, it's tough to say what the problem is. Just to make sure, you did try to open a browser and see if you're redirected to the companies login page, right?
I wouldn't think an app would be causing your issue, but have you downloaded any apps recently that you think might be affecting the phone?
For being completely stock and not changing any settings, I'm not sure what the problem is. Hopefully someone else in the community can chime in with some thoughts.
....unless they blocked your host through verizon...
I wanted to switch to CM7 from Leedroid, which I did. Everything worked fine except I couldn't find my WiFi, So i tried several other Radios, still didn't work. And then I flashed 2 other ROM's, just to see if works. Oxygen and MIUI, still the same problem on both. And later i switched to the ICS Beta ROM. And WIFI worked perfectly, with the same radio as I had before. I could stay with ICS since WiFi worked there, but I need A2SD+ so I won't run out of storage. So I switched to some different version of MIUI called MIUI_Au which I really like and want to keep, has everything I need. But still the same problem (no WiFi). Well, But I wanted to go further. So I tried creating a portable WIFI hotspot on 2 other smartphones. And I was able to connect to both of them. So I think it may have something to do with my router, but we got 3 smartphones and 6 computers connected to it and everything works perfect, it's just my Desire that won't find it.
Full wipe, cache + dalvik cache for every ROM flash. What's wrong?
go closer to the router..... I found CM7 based roms tend to have lower signal strength than sense roms.... might help might not....
mattyyey said:
go closer to the router..... I found CM7 based roms tend to have lower signal strength than sense roms.... might help might not....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply, but I've already tried that without success..
EDIT: I had CM7 way before Leedroid, and wifi worked perfect.
Does the phone actually see the signal and fail to connect or is it not seeing it at all? Either way, try rebooting the router and the phone and try again and also try disabling security on the router temporarily and see if it will connect. You may also want to check that the router is actually broadcasting a visible SSID and if not then you should maybe try enabling that also.
Parva4 said:
Does the phone actually see the signal and fail to connect or is it not seeing it at all? Either way, try rebooting the router and the phone and try again and also try disabling security on the router temporarily and see if it will connect. You may also want to check that the router is actually broadcasting a visible SSID and if not then you should maybe try enabling that also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can't even find it.. What you mean with "Broadcasting a visible SSID" i can see it's SSID on other smartphones and stuff if that's what you mean. I have not tried disabling the encryption on the router yet, but I had similar encryption on the other WiFi hotspots and it worked perfect. Can flashing older radios help maybe? Thanks.
Whatever, flashed back to Leedroid, maybe not my first choice. But at least the Wifi works, feel free to lock this thread.
Cm is set to see all channels? If you use a higher channel for wifi cyanogen does not see it by default.
In connections press menu and select the higher channels
j1mp492 said:
Whatever, flashed back to Leedroid, maybe not my first choice. But at least the Wifi works, feel free to lock this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, had you had the patience to sort your router out (which I'm pretty sure was at fault and not the phone) then maybe you wouldn't need to run a less preferable ROM. Indeed, had you followed my advice and disabled the router security temporarily then we may have had some idea if we were on the right road. Anyway, good luck with your chosen ROM.
Parva4 said:
Well, had you had the patience to sort your router out (which I'm pretty sure was at fault and not the phone) then maybe you wouldn't need to run a less preferable ROM. Indeed, had you followed my advice and disabled the router security temporarily then we may have had some idea if we were on the right road. Anyway, good luck with your chosen ROM.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I know, but a family member is going to have the phone from now on, and she doesn't have a 3G card so she really needs WiFi. I'm gonna try fixing it another time maybe, Can you just give a hint on what to do, we say if I disable the security on the router, and it works. what should I do next, I won't leave my router without WPA2 encryption. Thanks
DjTomek said:
Cm is set to see all channels? If you use a higher channel for wifi cyanogen does not see it by default.
In connections press menu and select the higher channels
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have to try that, thanks!
Thank YOU!!!
DjTomek said:
Cm is set to see all channels? If you use a higher channel for wifi cyanogen does not see it by default.
In connections press menu and select the higher channels
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yay! I had the same issue: everyone else could see the SSID but me and I'm running CM7 (Nexus One). Then I saw your suggestion and discovered a menu I wasn't even aware of(!) and configured CM7 to see all 14 channels and, voila, it works! (Not sure what the default was as neither option was enabled.) THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!
P.S. Could anyone please tell me why oh why CM7 has this option and why it is not set to a value that works by deafult?
-Andreas
I have a Verizon Samsung Fascinate phone and an Acer A100 tablet. My tablet locks in on the wi-fi signal generated by the the Fascinate's Mobile Hotspot program with no problem, however it does not even recognize the wi-fi signal generated by Open Garden Wi-Fi program.
Does anyone know what the Mobile Hotspot program has that Open Garden Wi-fi program does not?
smokie11 said:
I have a Verizon Samsung Fascinate phone and an Acer A100 tablet. My tablet locks in on the wi-fi signal generated by the the Fascinate's Mobile Hotspot program with no problem, however it does not even recognize the wi-fi signal generated by Open Garden Wi-Fi program.
Does anyone know what the Mobile Hotspot program has that Open Garden Wi-fi program does not?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If by Hotspot program you mean the carrier loaded one, then this makes sense. This tablet only supports a specific wifi range (called ad-hoc I believe? Correct me if I'm wrong here) and thats the signal type the default one gives off. But OpenGarden uses a different one (called ad-poc I think, again correct me if I'm wrong) and the tablet doesn't support it. So your solution would be:
1.to try the beta version of the normal wifi tether app (the one that opengarden is built off the sources of, you know the one.) and see if that fixes it.
2. switch to an AOSP rom, and use the built in tether from that. Its a known problem with older android devices and mobile hotspots.
The Evo Shift gives off the correct one with both AOSP and near stock roms, as its a newer device, so I'm good there, but you'll need to do one of the above fixes. Sorry about that.
Infrastructure vs. ad-hoc
Minor correction (I think). Tablets/mobile devices out of the box support infrastructure network connections. In order to tether you either need to broadcast that mode or modify the wpa_supplicant file on the device to allow it to identify and connect to ad-hoc connections.
I have never heard of ad-poc.
The beta version of wifi tether supports infrastructure on some devices, so some people are able to use it. Best bet is to, like the above poster said, is to load an AOSP rom on the phone and use the built in hotspot. There is an official port of CM7 for the fascinate and I know that has built in infrastructure hotspot.
Thanks for reply. It seems to me if the native or bloatware program that comes with the phone can generate the correct frequency to work on our tablets without the need for any rooting or supplicant files or whatever they are called then why can't a program be written for the market that generates the needed frequencies since it is obvious it is not a hardware issue.
If my opinion sounds dumb due to ignorance on my part, I apologize. However if someone that knows can tell me why it cannot be done I would be grateful.
smokie11 said:
Thanks for reply. It seems to me if the native or bloatware program that comes with the phone can generate the correct frequency to work on our tablets without the need for any rooting or supplicant files or whatever they are called then why can't a program be written for the market that generates the needed frequencies since it is obvious it is not a hardware issue.
If my opinion sounds dumb due to ignorance on my part, I apologize. However if someone that knows can tell me why it cannot be done I would be grateful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure, might be because the files neccisary aren't open source, or no one has rewritten them for the facinate. I still think your best bet is AOSP, but you can try getting the apk off the wifi tether Google project page. Could be solved by the newest beta of that, cause it might have been fixed in that new version.
Sent from my Bad-Ass Acer Iconia Tab a100
linuxman008 said:
Not sure, might be because the files neccisary aren't open source, or no one has rewritten them for the facinate. I still think your best bet is AOSP, but you can try getting the apk off the wifi tether Google project page. Could be solved by the newest beta of that, cause it might have been fixed in that new version.
Sent from my Bad-Ass Acer Iconia Tab a100
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the information, WiFi Tether 3.1 beta6 is the one I used and it works perfect on my Acer A100 tablet, no rooting or messing with the tablet involved. I get lousy 3g signal inside my home and I was was still able to watch a movie on Netflix from my Fascinate tether. It also works fine on my laptop. Thank you for all the help, I'm a happy camper.
hi friends this is my first post in GS3 world. We live in a rural area and are dependent on good WIFI service - I do tech work so the WIFI in the hacienda is very robust. All our other many devices love the WIFI rig: 2 ipad mins, one Galaxy Note 1, another older Galaxy, two laptops, one HTPC, etc. Only the new-to-me GS3 has issues with it. The visual indicator on the handset seems to not give an accurate picture, so we keep going into settings and seeing what is reported there... "Strong" signal is usually what displays, but in use, sending messages, making wifi calls, whatever, the results are pretty bad. We're using the stock messaging [google] app and stock T-Mobile WIFI calling app.
I want to say that web browsing is a little better, but can't really give details.
ROM etc:
android 4.1.2
baseband T999UVDMD5
Kernel 3.0.31-1128078
build JZ054K.T999UVDMD5
searching around the web I see a lot of the same complaints but really lousy diagnosis and lousier fixes [turn off 'data'; reboot the handset; call T-mobile... that sort of 'fix']
What is the scoop? Is there an internal WIFI antenna connection inside that needs to be checked?
Is there some elusive patch from Samsung?
Is the rig Channel-sensitive? [some older handsets only liked channel 11, or others only channel 6, etc.]
pls point me to the definitive thread if there is one...
thanks in advance
I'm not sure of any threads with much information on this. I don't recall seeing very many WiFi issues at all with the S3.
Are you rooted? Custom ROM?
If so you may want to try some of the other modems/baseband. Link in my Sig.
Otherwise, maybe try Odin flashing the UVDLJC or LJA firmware.
You say it's new to you, so I'm assuming you got it used. Do you know who you bought it from and did they report any problems?
How does it perform on other WiFi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999L using xda premium
DocHoliday77 said:
I'm not sure of any threads with much information on this. I don't recall seeing very many WiFi issues at all with the S3.
Are you rooted? Custom ROM?
If so you may want to try some of the other modems/baseband. Link in my Sig.
Otherwise, maybe try Odin flashing the UVDLJC or LJA firmware.
You say it's new to you, so I'm assuming you got it used. Do you know who you bought it from and did they report any problems?
How does it perform on other WiFi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999L using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, flash stock or root66 firmware of choice. We will go from there.
Aerowinder said:
Yep, flash stock or root66 firmware of choice. We will go from there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its all stock now.
are you saying to go ahead and nuke, reinstall stock ROM?
I don't have the option of going down Root66 - we are utterly dependent on WIFI Calling.
Is there a way to stop scanning selectively? that is, when I am on my own AP, there's no point in constantly scanning - there are other very weak wifi AP's in the vicinity and I"m wondering if somehow that causes an issue? my Note 1 is rock-solid. I don't recall a single drop with it in the 6 months I've had it. Most disconcerting is when WIFI calling drops - I've been using T-mobile devices for years and only once did I have one for which WIFI calling would disconnect, restart, and reappear like this. It will drop out, then refind its WIFI connection, then you get the "WIFI is Ready" all over again, just like you do when Rebooting the phone.
cognus said:
its all stock now.
are you saying to go ahead and nuke, reinstall stock ROM?
I don't have the option of going down Root66 - we are utterly dependent on WIFI Calling.
Is there a way to stop scanning selectively? that is, when I am on my own AP, there's no point in constantly scanning - there are other very weak wifi AP's in the vicinity and I"m wondering if somehow that causes an issue? my Note 1 is rock-solid. I don't recall a single drop with it in the 6 months I've had it. Most disconcerting is when WIFI calling drops - I've been using T-mobile devices for years and only once did I have one for which WIFI calling would disconnect, restart, and reappear like this. It will drop out, then refind its WIFI connection, then you get the "WIFI is Ready" all over again, just like you do when Rebooting the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, nuke everything. That's the only way we can rule out modified/mismatched firmware as a cause.
root66 is stock firmware with root injected into the system image. So wifi calling will still be there. It's just whether or not you want root.
Also wipe data/factory reset. If using stock recovery, this WILL wipe your internal SD. Backup your user apps with TiBu/RTB, and your internal SD card. Do not backup system apps.
You can adjust scanning frequency with build.prop modifications, but I personally use Tasker to control when it's on and off.
ahh. my fault.
ok, we'll get on it tonight and report back when squeaky clean.
Aerowinder said:
Yes, nuke everything. That's the only way we can rule out modified/mismatched firmware as a cause.
root66 is stock firmware with root injected into the system image. So wifi calling will still be there. It's just whether or not you want root.
Also wipe data/factory reset. If using stock recovery, this WILL wipe your internal SD. Backup your user apps with TiBu/RTB, and your internal SD card. Do not backup system apps.
You can adjust scanning frequency with build.prop modifications, but I personally use Tasker to control when it's on and off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please; need a little guidance
Friends, I successfully nuked the GS3, flashed with Root66, got everything working really well but the WIFI issues resurfaced.
Does the GS3 just have a really weak radio?
Compared to even the most humble Galaxy S4G [old and tired], its WIFI performance is not impressive.
Compared to my personal Galaxy Note 1 running more/less stock ICS, its awful ... annoying, unreliable, glitch.
WHY?
My suspicion is that it has trouble switching/credentialing/authenticating from one physical router/AP to another. In our wifi lan setup we have a common AP composed of 2 routers of different chipsets/mftr. Works dandy on ipads, iphones, windows 8, windows 8.1, my Note 1, older/retired/sold androids, etc. The Galaxy S3 is pretty much alone at having trouble when the physical signal of one gets weak and the second one is available - it seems to fumble the ball. Thus, you try to make/receive/talk wifi Call, and get random drops, retries, reload of the WIFI Calling APP.
is there a fix?
Set static channel?
Set static IP [instead of DHCP/select] ?
Grab inSSIDer from the play store, it'll show you if you are on the best wifi channel for your network.
Try turning off some of your other devices wifi connections. May be that the router isn't handling them all at once very well.
Do you have anything that operates on the Wireless-G standard? If so shut it down. Itll only severely degrade the entire networks performance.
You need to be rooted for this, but try the LJC and LJA modems, others too if your up for it.
Does it exhibit the same problems on other wifi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
Thank you for helping!
OK - Let me ask a question [it is rooted - root66 per above, busybox, SU, etc]:
I've used InSSIDer before and moved channels here and there and what I noticed is that the way inSSIDer deals with signal data display, whatever channel you pick, it will show one of the other channels as being "better". switch to that channel, and it will show some other channels to be better, etc round and round we go. maybe I'm not using it right...
as to G-only devices I'll give that a shot - I think one of my windows units may be all G. easy fix.
To me it seems clear: the places where the GS3 goes ambiguous and fails to maintain a connection is where the two AP signals [again, one AP,one login, one authentication type, but 2 physical] are pretty evenly matched, per how WIFI Analyzer displays the data. If I shut off the tertiary router, it will just drop signal when you move a tad too far away which is what one would expect, but the GS3's "reach" is the worst of the lot. I'm hoping somebody has figured out how to get hold of that radio and boost the signal.
I don't have a feel for how it does otherwise - we are dependent on WIFI calling at home/office - when out and about its the usual drill... sit in the right spot at the restaurant and you're good.
Those modems you suggest: do they support T-mo WIFI calling APP ?
DocHoliday77 said:
Grab inSSIDer from the play store, it'll show you if you are on the best wifi channel for your network.
Try turning off some of your other devices wifi connections. May be that the router isn't handling them all at once very well.
Do you have anything that operates on the Wireless-G standard? If so shut it down. Itll only severely degrade the entire networks performance.
You need to be rooted for this, but try the LJC and LJA modems, others too if your up for it.
Does it exhibit the same problems on other wifi networks?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cognus said:
Thank you for helping!
OK - Let me ask a question [it is rooted - root66 per above, busybox, SU, etc]:
I've used InSSIDer before and moved channels here and there and what I noticed is that the way inSSIDer deals with signal data display, whatever channel you pick, it will show one of the other channels as being "better". switch to that channel, and it will show some other channels to be better, etc round and round we go. maybe I'm not using it right...
as to G-only devices I'll give that a shot - I think one of my windows units may be all G. easy fix.
To me it seems clear: the places where the GS3 goes ambiguous and fails to maintain a connection is where the two AP signals [again, one AP,one login, one authentication type, but 2 physical] are pretty evenly matched, per how WIFI Analyzer displays the data. If I shut off the tertiary router, it will just drop signal when you move a tad too far away which is what one would expect, but the GS3's "reach" is the worst of the lot. I'm hoping somebody has figured out how to get hold of that radio and boost the signal.
I don't have a feel for how it does otherwise - we are dependent on WIFI calling at home/office - when out and about its the usual drill... sit in the right spot at the restaurant and you're good.
Those modems you suggest: do they support T-mo WIFI calling APP ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As or inssider, or any similar app, I don't go by what it says is the best channel. I simply look for the channel that has the fewest networks overlapping it. It probably tells you a different one us best each time because its taking into account that there is now another network on the previously recommended channel, yours.
If you have a single G device on an N network, it'll slow the entire network down to wireless-g speeds. So yeah, shut down that machine and ill bet you see improvements across the board. (You may need to reboot the network and other devices)
If you have one router and one AP but both with the same ssid and pw that may be causing your problems. With this type setup there's no way to really be sure which you're connected to. You may connect when close to one, but when you move away from it and closer to the second, it won't connect to the closer/stronger one automatically. Even if you turn it off then on again, it may still connect to the first if the signal is strong enough, even though there may be a stronger one available.
Try having it connect to the ap using different credentials and then you should have greater control over which you're using at a given time.
Allthe modems should function properly with everything they are supposed to, so yes they'll all work for wifi calling. I was looking into a way to adjust the Tx power for wifi a long time ago. Ill see if I can find what I was doing and try again. If you use a 3rd party router firmware (dd-wrt or tomato), you can adjust Tx power on the router itself if I remember correctly.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
DocHoliday77 said:
If you have a single G device on an N network, it'll slow the entire network down to wireless-g speeds. So yeah, shut down that machine and ill bet you see improvements across the board. (You may need to reboot the network and other devices)
If you have one router and one AP but both with the same ssid and pw that may be causing your problems. With this type setup there's no way to really be sure which you're connected to. You may connect when close to one, but when you move away from it and closer to the second, it won't connect to the closer/stronger one automatically. Even if you turn it off then on again, it may still connect to the first if the signal is strong enough, even though there may be a stronger one available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
in reverse order:
- as to to the wifi device power/range I was speaking of the phone/handset, not the router. But since you mentioned: I have not found an N or beyond router that has GOOD open source; open-wrt, dd-wrt, tomato et al - if you really read carefully what the feedback is, a lot of them suffer bad speed degradation. the old wrt54gl's would run full-tilt G speeds, over a wide range, and last for many years, but I have not found the equivalent in any other device running or capable of running one of the good [or formerly good] open-source codebase
- Are you sure about that client-bridging common-ssid/pw/encryption? the whole point of such firmware is to make the transition seamless and it is for every device except the GS3: two ipad's, one Galaxy S4G [999v], one Galaxy note T879 [debloated stock ics], two HP workstations, three laptops - gateway, thinkpad, hp Envy - not one of those devices gags when switching router signals. only the GS3. with the other devices, you literally forget that you've got multiple routers
The GS3 code has multiple network notifications also that the other two Galaxy's do not: it interrupts your blasted work to INFORM you that you're signal is dropping [how dumb is that?] - then it informs you that you've been disconnected, and informs you that you're "not registered on the network", then it informs you that it is logging in again, then it informs you that WIFI Calling App is ready for use as though it was the first time you used it.
- I will give the modems a whirl. I'll stash a full nandroid and try them out - If any of you happen to have a link to the 'how to' steps pls pass on as it will save me a lot of careful reading.
oh, and I was wrong about G-device; i replaced that one with an N device. Frankly, G speed is way fast enough. my internet connection is only 20Mbps so if I had the old WRT rigs back and up/running it would be PLENTY fast. Mixing B with G... now that was a real problem - there you were talking about effectively 1 to 5 Mbps
cognus said:
in reverse order:
- as to to the wifi device power/range I was speaking of the phone/handset, not the router. But since you mentioned: I have not found an N or beyond router that has GOOD open source; open-wrt, dd-wrt, tomato et al - if you really read carefully what the feedback is, a lot of them suffer bad speed degradation. the old wrt54gl's would run full-tilt G speeds, over a wide range, and last for many years, but I have not found the equivalent in any other device running or capable of running one of the good [or formerly good] open-source codebase
- Are you sure about that client-bridging common-ssid/pw/encryption? the whole point of such firmware is to make the transition seamless and it is for every device except the GS3: two ipad's, one Galaxy S4G [999v], one Galaxy note T879 [debloated stock ics], two HP workstations, three laptops - gateway, thinkpad, hp Envy - not one of those devices gags when switching router signals. only the GS3. with the other devices, you literally forget that you've got multiple routers
The GS3 code has multiple network notifications also that the other two Galaxy's do not: it interrupts your blasted work to INFORM you that you're signal is dropping [how dumb is that?] - then it informs you that you've been disconnected, and informs you that you're "not registered on the network", then it informs you that it is logging in again, then it informs you that WIFI Calling App is ready for use as though it was the first time you used it.
- I will give the modems a whirl. I'll stash a full nandroid and try them out - If any of you happen to have a link to the 'how to' steps pls pass on as it will save me a lot of careful reading.
oh, and I was wrong about G-device; i replaced that one with an N device. Frankly, G speed is way fast enough. my internet connection is only 20Mbps so if I had the old WRT rigs back and up/running it would be PLENTY fast. Mixing B with G... now that was a real problem - there you were talking about effectively 1 to 5 Mbps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I havent used any 3rd party firmwares for my networks in a long time. I was assuming that for the Wireless-N routers, they would have come a long way and solved a lot of their issues by now. My mistake.
I am sure about the router/ap setup. (Is your second set up as an Access Point or Repeater? Either way the same issues can still present themselves) I refer you to the following website for information on this and a little bit to back up my claim. It may be worded better or easier to understand than me, but either way its good info.
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...w-to-add-an-access-point-to-a-wireless-router
Step 3 is where this is touched on.
I have to be honest that I am skeptical that your other devices are transitioning over to the AP. (im guessing they are ALWAYS connecting to the AP) Unless their radios are actually much weaker than the GS3's. In fact, what I suspect at this point is that your GS3 is trying to connect directly to your router all the time, while your other devices are connecting to one or the other, all of the time. This is one of the draw backs to using the same SSID, it is difficult to tell which you are actually connecting to.
Read over that linked page. Let me know what you think.
Will do. thanks for that.
if your theory is right, on any one of the frequent auto-disconnect cycles, you're saying that the GS3 will connect to which? the stronger one? any idea how the firmware is setup to pick a winner?
Also, webbing around for answers [there are a LOT of threads on this issue as it turns out], there's a good deal of discussion about 5ghz vs 2.4ghz bands, and that samsung/t-mo have changed how the firmware handles transitions [or connect/disconnect] to one or the other. i.e. https://support.t-mobile.com/thread/37707?start=0&tstart=0
I can set my routers to one or the other if that would help - Any ideas if one is preferable?
Ever heard of GS3 being "channel sensitive"? I have not. Early WIFI/WIFI-Calling capable models from several mftrs were quite channel-nitpicky.
I could easily check that transition [seamless dropping of one, connecting to another] if there was a way to verify the MAC of the connected ap. know of such? I can't find much in the way of advanced settings but I have not a guide to the keyboard/manual settings methods for this build 4.1.2.
read the article but see no discussion of your point.
pick the right link?
the setup I'm using is simple wireless bridging - no physical medium between the twain. subordinate router has the mac address, encryption type, ssid, credentials and channel setting of the boss. reboot and done.
pretty much the same type of bridging as with DD-WRT [though it has a lot more options... more confusing]
I really think that the GS3 modems aren't that good, especially when it comes to wifi calling. My family and I haven been having some bad signal problems as of late so we've been relying on wifi calling to make calls. I had a lot of dropped calls in the past but I knew that had a lot to do with the old modem/router setup I was using. I would lose internet connection not matter what I was on. The internet would just drop and then reconnect, very frustrating if you were on a call or playing Xbox live. so last week I hooked up a new Comcast modem with wifi. The drops stopped but I still have to literally be standing right next to the modem if I wanted to make sure I didn't lose a call. If I walked into the kitchen, which is 15ft away, I'd get the little beep that warns that I'm about to lose the wifi signal. I know my signal that's coming from the router is good because all my devices, including the phone says so. Hell, the kids across the street asked if they could have the password because their internet was shut off and my signal is strong over there.
I don't have anything technical to support what I say, just experience but that experience tells me that Tmobile's wifi calling doesn't work that well unless your within 3 ft of the router.
cognus said:
Will do. thanks for that.
if your theory is right, on any one of the frequent auto-disconnect cycles, you're saying that the GS3 will connect to which? the stronger one? any idea how the firmware is setup to pick a winner?
Also, webbing around for answers [there are a LOT of threads on this issue as it turns out], there's a good deal of discussion about 5ghz vs 2.4ghz bands, and that samsung/t-mo have changed how the firmware handles transitions [or connect/disconnect] to one or the other. i.e. https://support.t-mobile.com/thread/37707?start=0&tstart=0
I can set my routers to one or the other if that would help - Any ideas if one is preferable?
Ever heard of GS3 being "channel sensitive"? I have not. Early WIFI/WIFI-Calling capable models from several mftrs were quite channel-nitpicky.
I could easily check that transition [seamless dropping of one, connecting to another] if there was a way to verify the MAC of the connected ap. know of such? I can't find much in the way of advanced settings but I have not a guide to the keyboard/manual settings methods for this build 4.1.2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Accorfong to my research it'll try to always connect to the first one it connected to. Even if the signal is stronger on another. That's the main point I was linking to that article for.
As for which band to choose, 2.4 is usually best. 5.0 is faster, but with a shorter range and more susceptible to interference.
tmob removed the option as you can manually select which you prefer. There is an apl I include with all my roms though that'll give this option back. Let me know if you want the link, though I doubt it'll help ypur particular problem.
cognus said:
read the article but see no discussion of your point.
pick the right link?
the setup I'm using is simple wireless bridging - no physical medium between the twain. subordinate router has the mac address, encryption type, ssid, credentials and channel setting of the boss. reboot and done.
pretty much the same type of bridging as with DD-WRT [though it has a lot more options... more confusing]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, so its more of a repeater setup. The routers are not connected to each other via Ethernet or powerline?
Step 3 of that article is what I wanted you to read. Its on the 2nd page. (Though I do suggest reading the whole of both pages)
nataku199 said:
I really think that the GS3 modems aren't that good, especially when it comes to wifi calling. My family and I haven been having some bad signal problems as of late so we've been relying on wifi calling to make calls. I had a lot of dropped calls in the past but I knew that had a lot to do with the old modem/router setup I was using. I would lose internet connection not matter what I was on. The internet would just drop and then reconnect, very frustrating if you were on a call or playing Xbox live. so last week I hooked up a new Comcast modem with wifi. The drops stopped but I still have to literally be standing right next to the modem if I wanted to make sure I didn't lose a call. If I walked into the kitchen, which is 15ft away, I'd get the little beep that warns that I'm about to lose the wifi signal. I know my signal that's coming from the router is good because all my devices, including the phone says so. Hell, the kids across the street asked if they could have the password because their internet was shut off and my signal is strong over there.
I don't have anything technical to support what I say, just experience but that experience tells me that Tmobile's wifi calling doesn't work that well unless your within 3 ft of the router.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make sure you don't have a bottleneck somewhere on your network. (Such as a misconfigured router, a docsis 1.0 cable modem, etc.) Or as I stated before, if you have a wireless g device active on your network, it'll force the whole network to degrade to wireless g speeds. Also use inssider to check if you are on the best channel. And check for any points of interference. (Microwaves, cordless phones, power hungry appliances, etc)
If your cell signal went south recently, it may be due to the work tmobile has been doing. What worked best before, may not anymore. Try out the many other available modems to see if it improves.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
---------- Post added at 05:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:06 PM ----------
Thos is a copy/paste of the text I was referring to.
(Starting under step 3)
But most wireless clients are very "sticky" and tend to stay associated to the first AP they encounter,*even when APs with stronger signals are available. So I recommend setting a*different SSID*for the AP, so that you can manually control connection.The other advantage of setting a different SSID for the AP is that you'll be able to see both the AP and your main wireless router if you're using the Wireless Zero Configuration utility that is built into Windows. Even in Vista, Microsoft has stubbornly chosen to not show multiple wireless networks that use the same Network Name / SSID.
4) Set the AP channel
One large network practice that you*do*want to follow is to set the AP to a different channel than the main wireless router. In the U.S. you should use only the non-overlapping channels*1, 6 and 11. So if your main wireless router is set to channel 6, set the AP to either 1 or 11.You should probably do a quick site-survey first (see this HowTo), to make sure that you aren't setting the AP channel to one used by a neighbor's network. If you can't find a completely clear channel, choose the*weakest*neighboring network and set the AP to its channel.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
I'll look into it.
Thanx