I recently got a Seido extended battery case and I thought I could fit two regular batteries in order use one battery and have another battery there in the unit as a spare. As I thought about this however, why beat the bush?
Why not think of a way to connect the two batteries with a piece of electrical tape and have a cheap ~$6 3000mah battery. Thoughts?
Well..you could always wire the contacts together, that way the contacts on the phone hit both of them at the same time. However, you would have to worry about over powering the phone (too much current to it). So..probably wouldn't be worth it. However, if you have insurance you could always try it...
I actually thought of this before and was about to run to radioshack when I ran into a snag....
I was going to wire them up using a relay so when there was no charge on the original battery it would auto switch to the other. E.g. only one battery connected at a time.
Problems:
1. Phone would shutdown when the relay switched, not too big of an issue as you would just turn phone back on.
2. I think phone would shut off before relay would switch, due to Android turning phone off before battery is truely dead
3. Charging would be an issue due to relay
4. All the relays I found were pretty big
As far as wiring two batties at once to increase capacity. There's only 2 ways to do it:
1. Parralell (Wiring + to + and - to - and one battery entirely to load) which will end up with the same voltage as one battery but twice the amps!
2. Series (wiring - from one battery to load, + from other battery to load, then remaining - and + together) which will double the volts but the amps will be the same!
P.S. I'm not a licensed electrician...
Well ur gonna have to do alot of thinking. What ur gonna have to do is hok up 2 battery's to 1 circuit board otherwise you will blow up the battery's and fry your phone. So be careful and solder right. Do a good job and don't mess it up completely.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Kept thinking about it and here is the easiest way to do it...and the reasoning why it will work.
1. If you are to do it you will need 2 identical batteries. Same make, model, and age...preferably new. Otherwise one will degrade.
2. Running in parallel WILL double mAh or discharge rate. I didn't think so at first but it will.
3. Since we can't supply the phone with more volts than it can handle we cannot wire the batteries in series.
4. So we must wire them in parallel, this will double batteries mAh, volts will remain equal to one battery, and double the amps.
5. Doubling the amps should not hurt phone as it will only use what it needs. It is bad to have less amps but not more.***
So, according to my original battery specs if I were to wire two together the end result would be:
3000mAh 3.7V @ 2A
To my knowledge this should work fine.
There is only 2 things that should be verified by an electrician - i.e. not me.
***1. I know more amps is OK, but doubling them I am not sure about. The phone SHOULD only draw at 1A regardless.
2. Charging with the batteries connected together should be OK, this is why I said to make sure their identical. But I would still recommend charging them separately as this is where most damage can be caused to batteries.
You would be fine with them in parallel, amperage is a nonissue as amps are pulled not pushed, charging I'm not sure about I don't know how the charging circuit works in these phones.
Ps I am a licensed electrician
If you ever take one of those cheap Chinese 3500 mah batters apart its just two smaller batteries hooked together and wrapped up.
Well that is all any battery is, a groping of cells. And the cells inside of a single battery are paired to match the exact specs the phone requires.
P.S. I actually have another battery on its way in the mail. I had my warranty send me one so I have a spare. If it is identical to my current one, which it should be, I will test this idea out.
Wouldn't it be easier to order an extended battery with the battery cover from eBay for like $7.50 delivered? Or is this something you wanna do just to see if you can? I don't see why anyone would take the risk of blowing up their phone for this.
rugedraw said:
Wouldn't it be easier to order an extended battery with the battery cover from eBay for like $7.50 delivered? Or is this something you wanna do just to see if you can? I don't see why anyone would take the risk of blowing up their phone for this.
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More or less just to do it, and I have warranty with no down payment so I can get new phone.
rugedraw said:
Wouldn't it be easier to order an extended battery with the battery cover from eBay for like $7.50 delivered? Or is this something you wanna do just to see if you can? I don't see why anyone would take the risk of blowing up their phone for this.
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This ^
Why spend the time and risk damaging your phone?
I can understand the curiosity, as this has crossed my mind before as well, but i figured it simply wasn't worth the time/money/effort
dowmace said:
You would be fine with them in parallel, amperage is a nonissue as amps are pulled not pushed, charging I'm not sure about I don't know how the charging circuit works in these phones.
Ps I am a licensed electrician
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I'm an electrical engineer and this is correct. The circuit (phone) will draw the amperage needed to run regardless of capacity.
This is the same deal if you get a laptop charger. If your laptop takes 12VDC at 5A and you use a 12VDC that is capable of 12A, you won't hurt your laptop, as the laptop will only pull 5A max from the charger. If you use a 14VDC at 5A you will probably fry something on your mainboard.
Similarly, if your phone takes a 5V .5A charger and you use a 5V 1A you don't fry your phone.
Hello,
As the battery can not be removed I am investigating the ways to make it live the long as I can. One is making your daily use long a lot, dissabling wifi, 3g or things you dont use.
The other way, the like I want to discuss here, is how to make proper charges. Actually, LG support two types:
- USB, at 500mA
- Wall charger (the one from LG), at 1200mA as it says.
I have investigated and read the less mA, the better for your battery, altought it takes longer to arrive to 100% charge.
So, the first question that comes to my mind is: when I like to use a wall charger, shouldn't it be better to use another wall charger with less mA? I own a Samsung charges that says 700mA so maybe it could be better to use it.
Do you think is a good idea?
What the best way to charge battery in order to give it a long live? Is it better to always charge it with pc-usb?
Thanks.
Fer
Use the original charger the phone came with.using other chargers,with different specs,may damage the battery on long terms.
Using a charger with lower intensity(700mAh) will charge the battery slower and for a while it will look like the battery will last longer,but in time it will affect the battery.
Using a higher intensity charger(1500 mAh for example),will charge the battery faster,but in time it will also affect the battery.
Best way is to make complete cycles of discharging/charging,avoid using the phone while is charging.
This is for the battery health.
To increase daily battery life,deactivate auto sync,set weather sync to min 1h,turn off fps/data/wi-fi when you don't need them.
The battery on the phone is guaranteed for about 850 cycles.so,even if you charge the phone every day,you have more than 2 years warranty for the battery to work on parameters.
Then,why worry that much?
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1
kimitza said:
The battery on the phone is guaranteed for about 850 cycles.so,even if you charge the phone every day,you have more than 2 years warranty for the battery to work on parameters.
Then,why worry that much?
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Because I want my device last more than two years. My last phones last near four years each one. it will be a pitty if I had to forget a good phone only because battery is age-worn.
Given that you propose only charginr with original charger (with make sense to me), what about USB-PC port charge? it is better to use one or the other? both methods are supported by LG and mentioned in the manual, and supposed one of them would be desirable.
Nope,it's better to avoid charges fom usb.in fact,if you have files to copy to/from pc,after you finish i recommend to plug it out.
And those 850 cycles i mentioned are not the end of the battery.it means the battery will keep it"s properties.in time,it's normal for any electric/electronic component to show signs of fatigue.anyway,2+ years for a battery it's great.technology is evolving.you didn't mention,your last phone you had for 4 years,with same battery?and it was in the same parameters?well,it's hard to believe.
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1
kimitza said:
Nope,it's better to avoid charges fom usb.in fact,if you have files to copy to/from pc,after you finish i recommend to plug it out.
And those 850 cycles i mentioned are not the end of the battery.it means the battery will keep it"s properties.in time,it's normal for any electric/electronic component to show signs of fatigue.anyway,2+ years for a battery it's great.technology is evolving.you didn't mention,your last phone you had for 4 years,with same battery?and it was in the same parameters?well,it's hard to believe.
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1
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what is the "scientific" or "logical" reason to prefer the wall charger to usb-pc? I read it before it is better to charge into usb because 500mA are better for battery, less heat altought it takes longer to arrive to 100%.
My SGS last near 4 years, and I mainly I charged it from usb 50% and official charger 50%, and with Llama (and manually) I was very stricted in what features I turn on and off. In fact the battery and the phone is still in use for other person and the battery "looks" like the first use.
Well,it's not empirical,it's science.maybe i don't know how to put it in english that good,but i'll try.
As we all know,the electricity is measured within some parameters : tension(volts),in intensity(amps) and frequency(herz).
In your case,the wall charger provides 5 volts at the intensity of 1200 miliamps per hour.this is the standard value,made by lg for the g battery.if you provide less than half of that specified intensity(500mAh),the battery will charge alot slower,and it will "struggle" to align the electrons onto the battery layers.you shouldn't have a difference higher than 20%.for a period,it will look like the battery will last longer,but in the same time it will lose it's properties faster than the normal charging.
Today,batteries are not simple electric storages,but smart components themselves.if you mess up their function parameters,you will notice it in time.
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1
kimitza said:
Well,it's not empirical,it's science.maybe i don't know how to put it in english that good,but i'll try.
As we all know,the electricity is measured within some parameters : tension(volts),in intensity(amps) and frequency(herz).
In your case,the wall charger provides 5 volts at the intensity of 1200 miliamps per hour.this is the standard value,made by lg for the g battery.if you provide less than half of that specified intensity(500mAh),the battery will charge alot slower,and it will "struggle" to align the electrons onto the battery layers.you shouldn't have a difference higher than 20%.for a period,it will look like the battery will last longer,but in the same time it will lose it's properties faster than the normal charging.
Today,batteries are not simple electric storages,but smart components themselves.if you mess up their function parameters,you will notice it in time.
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1
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Kimitza, thank you very much for your support. One more question?. What specifications do you recomend for a car charger? (having in mind I don't use the smarthphone in the car, excep for GPS-maps sometimes. Most time I only charged it)
I have seen in the shop there a vary range of car charges that goes from 750mA to 2100mA.
And other one: is it advisable to use the device while charging?
I have an energizer car charger,rated at 1000mAh.
So,anything between 850-1300mAh should be ok.
My advice is not to charge the phone while using it in car,especially as gps,unless you have to.why?let's see,using the gps will cause the phone to heat more than usual.another heating reason,i'm sure you have a car mount sticked to the front glass of the car,exposed to direct sun.add to these 2 reasons the heat created by the charging itself and you will have yourself a veeeery hot optimus g.oh,forgot about the case.if you have one,especially silicon case,you'll end up with a frying pan.
If you can eliminate some of those heating sources,it would be great.
I found a car mount fitting on an AC blow hole.it's handy in the summer time.for winter,i stick my normal mount on front glass.
On long trips i try to avoid using it as gps when i'm on the highway.i use only in cities.
I remove the silicon case to provide extra air.
And,if i use as gps,i don't charge it.i plan my trip in such way i charge the phone while i'm on highway(if needed of course).i never spent that much time in car wondering in major cities to empty my phone.
Only if i really must i charge the phone while using it.
Feel free to follow or not my guide.
But i think it makes sense.
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1
I like your advices. I was also asking if you use the phone while in wall-charging??
thanks
Sometimes i do,but,like i said, i try to avoid it. Depending on the activity.
Sometimes i find myself searching for the plug when i'm caught in a game and i want to continue )..
But this phone gave the beste ratio gaming/battery i saw . One day i played 4.5 hrs of Real Racing 3,before charging the phone.So,it's great.
I was so into that game i didn't wanted to end,so yea, i played while charging.Just don't make a habbit out of it .
And sometimes you can't use the phone without charging it....for example,when i play a movie on my 32" tv. The mhl adapter will not work without the phone pluged.
V= 5V. Current does not matter, on "charger" is max current. It should be mentioned, that thing we are calling charger is actually an adapter. Charging unit will take needed current, so do not talk stupidity, all of you have no idea about basics of electro-technics
cickvoa said:
V= 5V. Current does not matter, on "charger" is max current. It should be mentioned, that thing we are calling charger is actually an adapter. Charging unit will take needed current, so do not talk stupidity, all of you have no idea about basics of electro-technics
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but the question was not what current is needed, but what is the ideal current (charging velocity) in order to make battery life last longer. what is your opinion ?
cickvoa said:
V= 5V. Current does not matter, on "charger" is max current. It should be mentioned, that thing we are calling charger is actually an adapter. Charging unit will take needed current, so do not talk stupidity, all of you have no idea about basics of electro-technics
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Well,another specialist.I never mentioned the Voltage,which is the same for almost all mobile devices.I was talking about intensity,this makes the difference. And since you mentioned it, it's not just an adapter,it's more,because this piese of electronic equipment CONVERTS one kind of electricity(alternative current),with some specs(110-220V), to another kind of electricity(dirrect current),with other specs(5V). All this, guess what,to provide enough DC to CHARGE the battery.the standard in mobile industry has been set to 5V on wall chargers and 3.7 V output batteries.
These are the most common and used. The difference is made by the capacity of the batteries and the capability of chargers to supply an amount of electric intensity in a period of time. Again, the standard has been set to mAh,which is milliamps per hour. So,to be exact, a charger rated 5v - 1200mAh will provide a 5V current,at 1200 milliamps per hour.
On the other hand,the battery specs say : 3.7 V, 2100 mAh. This means the battery can provide an output current of 3.7V, at the max intensity of 2100mAh. Didn't measured the G max consumption, but i can tell you for sure, the maximum intensity used by my previous Galaxy note was 800 mAh,on some heavy gaming. And this measurement was made in a lab,with proper tools.You can do an estimative measurement home quite easy,but not that accurate,just to have an idea. How?Well, charge the battery to full, then start an app, a game. play that game until the battery is empty,then make a simple math(battery capacity / time) .It's not the most accurate result,but....
You said the charging unit will take the needed current,right?Who said something else?I said there are differences in charging times,caused by the ELECTRIC INTENSITY.If you say it doesn't matter,because it's all 5V tension,then i guess i could extrapolate and say Amazon river and a mountain spring it's the same for you,because they both are flowing waters,right?It doesn't matter all other parameters,just the flow.
I could go more into details and i'm not a specialist.I just like to know how things are working,just to satisfy my curiosity. I have alot of electronic tools/gadgets, i have my own semi-proffesional soldering station,professional digital multimeter and more. I could say new generation batteries have their own processing unit,making them smart batteries(that's why you can't just exchange batteries from one phone to another,although they have same specs).I could also say Li-Ion and Li-Po batteries are charged by impulses and not real DC.But these are details,and no one here cares about them.They just want to know the basics on how to get a better battery life and how to proper use them.
And since we don't know the basics of electro-technics,could you share your vaste knowledge,but without copy-pasting it from wiki?
Addapter is voltage source. Charging unit is inside mobile phone and it takes amout of current what it needs, ofc has max current limit. When u have voltage source, only way to control current is by resistance that is connected on it. That is.ohms law, basic of electric. Engineers who designed and made charging unit knows their job. Period
Sent from my LG-P880 using Tapatalk 2
only voltage?care to do a small experiment?I could provide you a 5v adapter with 10 amps intensity. will you plug it into your phone?Just for the fun of learning?
Yes i would. Because adapter IS VOLTAGE SOURCE, so voltage is constant, and current depends on resistant attached to adapter.
If you would give me CURRENT SOURCE of 10A than I wouldnt connect it, because there is constant current and variable voltage. Pls do not go further, your post shows that this is not your area of knowledge.
Just as notice, Im master if science in EE, in which these types of adapters which is use for mobile phones is basic of industrial electronic, so......
Edit: your big post shows that you dont understand electrotechnic, when i come home on a computer ill give you detail review of your post and mistakes
Sent from my LG-P880 using Tapatalk 2
cickvoa said:
Yes i would. Because adapter IS VOLTAGE SOURCE, so voltage is constant, and current depends on resistant attached to adapter.
If you would give me CURRENT SOURCE of 10A than I wouldnt connect it, because there is constant current and variable voltage. Pls do not go further, your post shows that this is not your area of knowledge.
Just as notice, Im master if science in electric motor drives and automation, in which these types of adapters which is use for mobile phones is basic of industrial electronic, so......
Edit: your big post shows that you dont understand electrotechnic, when i come home on a computer ill give you detail review of your post and mistakes
Sent from my LG-P880 using Tapatalk 2
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Please, also post your opinion about what is the best specifications for "wherever you call it the charger" for prolong battery life. The max A I suppost mark a limit for the phone, if current max is below the ideal charging value the that charger would be worse. Or any charger is OK?
I will im drinking now lol hehe, no prob, just spoke with friend, he has MD in electronics
Sent from my LG-P880 using Tapatalk 2
kimitza said:
Well,another specialist.I never mentioned the Voltage,which is the same for almost all mobile devices.I was talking about intensity,this makes the difference. And since you mentioned it, it's not just an adapter,it's more,because this piese of electronic equipment CONVERTS one kind of electricity(alternative current),with some specs(110-220V), to another kind of electricity(dirrect current),with other specs(5V).
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First of all, why are you mentioning intensity?
Second, “direct current with 5 V specs“. Man, you got totally wrong there.
kimitza said:
All this, guess what,to provide enough DC to CHARGE the battery.the standard in mobile industry has been set to 5V on wall chargers and 3.7 V output batteries.
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„provide enough direct CURRENT … to set to 5 V“. you are doing it again sir, VOLTAGE is measured in VOLTS, CURRENT is measured in AMPERS !!!!!
Second, you must have larger potential form charger to battery, because current wouldn’t flow. Since max battery has 4,2V, it is set to 5V (don’t know why 5, but it is bigger than 4,2)
third, 3,7V is not standard, it is potential difference on Lithiom batteries, as it is 1,5V on CoZn batteries (usual called "Alkaline" or 1,2V on Ni-Mh or Ni-Cd batteries
kimitza said:
These are the most common and used. The difference is made by the capacity of the batteries and the capability of chargers to supply an amount of electric intensity in a period of time. Again, the standard has been set to mAh,which is milliamps per hour. So,to be exact, a charger rated 5v - 1200mAh will provide a 5V current,at 1200 milliamps per hour.
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Standard with mAh is wrong, Wh (watthour) is more correct, but OK, lets go with mAh.
Second, since we are talking about mAh's, mAh is measuring unit for capacity. If you find me charger that can store 1200mAh of capacity good for you (it is called battery, to be precise)
kimitza said:
On the other hand,the battery specs say : 3.7 V, 2100 mAh.
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Again, Li-ion cell at full charge is around 4,2 V and „empty“ is around 3,4 V.
kimitza said:
This means the battery can provide an output current of 3.7V, at the max intensity of 2100mAh.
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Again, totally noob. Sir, V O L T S are for V O L T A G E, A M P E R S are for C U R R E N T, M I L I A M P E R H O U R S are for C A P A C I T Y !!!!!!! If you tell sentence like that to some specialist, he/she would start to LOL to you. If you tell that on some exam, believe me, you wouldn’t pass this year.
kimitza said:
Didn't measured the G max consumption, but i can tell you for sure, the maximum intensity used by my previous Galaxy note was 800 mAh,on some heavy gaming. And this measurement was made in a lab,with proper tools.You can do an estimative measurement home quite easy,but not that accurate,just to have an idea. How?Well, charge the battery to full, then start an app, a game. play that game until the battery is empty,then make a simple math(battery capacity / time) .It's not the most accurate result,but....
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Bad sentence… only thing you can measure from battery is voltage and currently current. Other, such as mAh, you can calculate. For ex. If you say that during 1 h of measuring average current was 800mA, than you can say, OK my battery gave me 800mAh. Period. If you want to be more precise, or say it in correct measuring units, that you go like this: “my battery gave me 800mA in 1 h. OK, I have 800mAh. BUT, my battery is rated to 3,7 V (average voltage), than you say OK, capacity of this battery is 800mAh*3,7V=2,96mAhV. Since electric power in DC systems is calculated as P=U*I (in watts), so W=V*A, you say that battery has 2,96Wh of capacity.”
Then you look at battery (my O4X) and look, it is written “2150 mAh/8,2Wh”. LG made this good
kimitza said:
You said the charging unit will take the needed current,right?Who said something else?I said there are differences in charging times,caused by the ELECTRIC INTENSITY.If you say it doesn't matter,because it's all 5V tension,then i guess i could extrapolate and say Amazon river and a mountain spring it's the same for you,because they both are flowing waters,right?It doesn't matter all other parameters,just the flow.
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Again, volts and stuff, you do not have idea what are you talking about
kimitza said:
I could go more into details and i'm not a specialist.
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Yes, I could tell that by reading first few words of your post mister
kimitza said:
I just like to know how things are working,just to satisfy my curiosity. I have alot of electronic tools/gadgets, i have my own semi-proffesional soldering station,professional digital multimeter and more. I could say new generation batteries have their own processing unit,making them smart batteries(that's why you can't just exchange batteries from one phone to another,although they have same specs).I could also say Li-Ion and Li-Po batteries are charged by impulses and not real DC.But these are details,and no one here cares about them.
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Correct Liions are charged in impulses. BUT adapter does not provide impulses on its output, it provides 5V (as it is voltage source) and current [0, RATED] A. (those [] means that 0 and rated are included, in case you do not know math too, and that is called interval)
For impules, there is charging unit inside phone.
kimitza said:
They just want to know the basics on how to get a better battery life and how to proper use them.
And since we don't know the basics of electro-technics,could you share your vaste knowledge,but without copy-pasting it from wiki?
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Wiki...well, you could read it a little, on en.wiki infos are correct, ive checked.
you have some bad attitude. but i understand, attack is the best defence. Enjoy your studying a little and do not embarrass yourself anymore. It is not problem if you do not know, okay, but if you are forcing me, and have no idea abaut basics (such as measuring units), cmon mister. do your homework.
Okay, this is review of your post. I am little hangovered, so if I sound a little uninterested or rough, forgive me
now, lets talk little about basics. Im not in the mood to write equasions and upload some schemes, so ill just put it on paper by hand and upload.
View attachment sl002.rar
cickvoa said:
First of all, why are you mentioning intensity?
Second, “direct current with 5 V specs“. Man, you got totally wrong there.
„provide enough direct CURRENT … to set to 5 V“. you are doing it again sir, VOLTAGE is measured in VOLTS, CURRENT is measured in AMPERS !!!!!
Second, you must have larger potential form charger to battery, because current wouldn’t flow. Since max battery has 4,2V, it is set to 5V (don’t know why 5, but it is bigger than 4,2)
third, 3,7V is not standard, it is potential difference on Lithiom batteries, as it is 1,5V on CoZn batteries (usual called "Alkaline" or 1,2V on Ni-Mh or Ni-Cd batteries
Standard with mAh is wrong, Wh (watthour) is more correct, but OK, lets go with mAh.
Second, since we are talking about mAh's, mAh is measuring unit for capacity. If you find me charger that can store 1200mAh of capacity good for you (it is called battery, to be precise)
Again, Li-ion cell at full charge is around 4,2 V and „empty“ is around 3,4 V.
Again, totally noob. Sir, V O L T S are for V O L T A G E, A M P E R S are for C U R R E N T, M I L I A M P E R H O U R S are for C A P A C I T Y !!!!!!! If you tell sentence like that to some specialist, he/she would start to LOL to you. If you tell that on some exam, believe me, you wouldn’t pass this year.
Bad sentence… only thing you can measure from battery is voltage and currently current. Other, such as mAh, you can calculate. For ex. If you say that during 1 h of measuring average current was 800mA, than you can say, OK my battery gave me 800mAh. Period. If you want to be more precise, or say it in correct measuring units, that you go like this: “my battery gave me 800mA in 1 h. OK, I have 800mAh. BUT, my battery is rated to 3,7 V (average voltage), than you say OK, capacity of this battery is 800mAh*3,7V=2,96mAhV. Since electric power in DC systems is calculated as P=U*I (in watts), so W=V*A, you say that battery has 2,96Wh of capacity.”
Then you look at battery (my O4X) and look, it is written “2150 mAh/8,2Wh”. LG made this good
Again, volts and stuff, you do not have idea what are you talking about
Yes, I could tell that by reading first few words of your post mister
Correct Liions are charged in impulses. BUT adapter does not provide impulses on its output, it provides 5V (as it is voltage source) and current [0, RATED] A. (those [] means that 0 and rated are included, in case you do not know math too, and that is called interval)
For impules, there is charging unit inside phone.
Wiki...well, you could read it a little, on en.wiki infos are correct, ive checked.
you have some bad attitude. but i understand, attack is the best defence. Enjoy your studying a little and do not embarrass yourself anymore. It is not problem if you do not know, okay, but if you are forcing me, and have no idea abaut basics (such as measuring units), cmon mister. do your homework.
Okay, this is review of your post. I am little hangovered, so if I sound a little uninterested or rough, forgive me
now, lets talk little about basics. Im not in the mood to write equasions and upload some schemes, so ill just put it on paper by hand and upload.
View attachment 2044470
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cickvoa, thank you very much for your contribution, opinion and paper. Very valuable.
Got 2 new batteries and I want to keep them for a while, so I have a few questions:
1. Is the OEM fast-charge charger and cable okay to use every day, or will it degrade the battery faster than a slower/regular speed charger/cable?
2. Since I have 2 batteries now, which is the best way to charge them both up? charge 1 in the phone, then swap and charge the other in the phone? Or buy a battery charger (and if so, which one)?
3. Any other helps regarding the chargers and/or cables?Thank you for your help.
Faster charging will always generate more heat and put more stress on the battery, so slower charging would be better for a battery's lifespan, but I don't think you'll see a huge difference within two years.
By far the fastest way to keep going is having the second battery charged in an external battery charger and then swap when the other battery gets low, followed by charging the low battery in the external charger. Doing it this way also puts the least wear-and-tear on the phone's charging port since you'll rarely use it. I use LG's OEM external battery charging cradle (BCK-5200), but it may be hard to find nowadays. There's currently a used one up for sale in an auction by an American seller on eBay, and there are new ones from a South Korean seller for a higher fixed price. I wouldn't pay more than $25 for one. As for charging time, for me, it takes about 4 hours to charge my MaxxxJuice 4100 mAh batteries from ~5–10% to full. External chargers do not fast-charge, so you'll never put too much stress on the battery that way. Of course, swapping may not be for everyone as it may be inconvenient to take a case off and put it back on.
Unlike the older microUSB cables, bad USB Type-C cables that are not built to certain specifications can draw higher currents and destroy the devices they are charging. A few years ago, a Google engineer reviewed lots of USB-C cables on Amazon to give his view on those. If you need a third-party cable, make sure you get one from a reputable source with good reviews. My preferred USB cable is Anker's Powerline+ due to their extra strength/thickness, and I don't need much flexibility/twistability in my cables. Also, I like how the USB-C end connector is made of one single piece where you don't see any connecting lines around the middle (you can see an example here).
Other thoughts:
As long as there is a supply of extra batteries around and you can afford to buy them when the time comes, then you shouldn't worry much about how you charge your phone. In my opinion, that is one of the main selling points of having a hand-removable battery. I imagine a paranoid person on a phone with a sealed battery would be trying to keep the battery level between 40 and 80% at all times. So really, the only thing to worry about is having a decent USB-C cable and making sure the phone's charging port is clean and not worn out.
In case you are really interested on my detailed charging habits and related things on my V20, I discussed them while reviewing my batteries a while back on the V20 Subreddit.
Thanks!
C D said:
Faster charging will always generate more heat and put more stress on the battery, so slower charging would be better for a battery's lifespan, but I don't think you'll see a huge difference within two years.
By far the fastest way to keep going is having the second battery charged in an external battery charger and then swap when the other battery gets low, followed by charging the low battery in the external charger. Doing it this way also puts the least wear-and-tear on the phone's charging port since you'll rarely use it. I use LG's OEM external battery charging cradle (BCK-5200), but it may be hard to find nowadays. There's currently a used one up for sale in an auction by an American seller on eBay, and there are new ones from a South Korean seller for a higher fixed price. I wouldn't pay more than $25 for one. As for charging time, for me, it takes about 4 hours to charge my MaxxxJuice 4100 mAh batteries from ~5–10% to full. External chargers do not fast-charge, so you'll never put too much stress on the battery that way. Of course, swapping may not be for everyone as it may be inconvenient to take a case off and put it back on.
Unlike the older microUSB cables, bad USB Type-C cables that are not built to certain specifications can draw higher currents and destroy the devices they are charging. A few years ago, a Google engineer reviewed lots of USB-C cables on Amazon to give his view on those. If you need a third-party cable, make sure you get one from a reputable source with good reviews. My preferred USB cable is Anker's Powerline+ due to their extra strength/thickness, and I don't need much flexibility/twistability in my cables. Also, I like how the USB-C end connector is made of one single piece where you don't see any connecting lines around the middle (you can see an example here).
Other thoughts:
As long as there is a supply of extra batteries around and you can afford to buy them when the time comes, then you shouldn't worry much about how you charge your phone. In my opinion, that is one of the main selling points of having a hand-removable battery. I imagine a paranoid person on a phone with a sealed battery would be trying to keep the battery level between 40 and 80% at all times. So really, the only thing to worry about is having a decent USB-C cable and making sure the phone's charging port is clean and not worn out.
In case you are really interested on my detailed charging habits and related things on my V20, I discussed them while reviewing my batteries a while back on the V20 Subreddit.
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Click to collapse
On that Subreddit, you mentioned you cycled a couple batteries. Did you have to do the whole fully charge and fully drain thing each time you switched to the new battery, or just when you first bought the batteries?
Would like to know the answer to ^this^ as well.
baldybill said:
On that Subreddit, you mentioned you cycled a couple batteries. Did you have to do the whole fully charge and fully drain thing each time you switched to the new battery, or just when you first bought the batteries?
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Click to collapse
pistacios said:
Would like to know the answer to ^this^ as well.
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Click to collapse
No, I only did the full cycle with the first battery three times, and that was it. The only reason to do that is for the Android software of the phone to get a better sense of your battery level. Of course, it won't be as accurate the longer you go swapping between batteries as undoubtedly they will differ a bit in capacity over time. But fully running down and then fully charging a battery isn't good for its lifespan if you do it too often. The only other times you'd have to really repeat the calibration is when switching to a battery with a different capacity or switching ROMs / doing a factory reset.
C D said:
No, I only did the full cycle with the first battery three times, and that was it. The only reason to do that is for the Android software of the phone to get a better sense of your battery level. Of course, it won't be as accurate the longer you go swapping between batteries as undoubtedly they will differ a bit in capacity over time. But fully running down and then fully charging a battery isn't good for its lifespan if you do it too often. The only other times you'd have to really repeat the calibration is when switching to a battery with a different capacity or switching ROMs / doing a factory reset.
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So, I got a 4000 Powerbear that I'm calibrating now.
I'm also getting a 4100 Perfine.
Are they close enough that I shouldn't have to recalibrate for the 4100?
baldybill said:
So, I got a 4000 Powerbear that I'm calibrating now.
I'm also getting a 4100 Perfine.
Are they close enough that I shouldn't have to recalibrate for the 4100?
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Most likely yes. I imagine most of these 4000–4300 mAh Lithium polymer batteries that started popping up this year are very similar, and some may just be rebranded from the same common factory source. Barring a defective battery, if the two batteries had a significant difference in capacity, you could see things like early shutdowns on the smaller capacity one or being stuck at a low percentage for an unusually long amount of time on the larger capacity one.
Great info.
So it looks like all other batteries on hand should not be put into rotation with the higher capacity batteries to avoid inaccurate readings in Android.
pistacios said:
Great info.
So it looks like all other batteries on hand should not be put into rotation with the higher capacity batteries to avoid inaccurate readings in Android.
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Click to collapse
Pretty much this. I suppose one could try keeping separate copies of the batterystats.bin file from /data/system when rooted and swap them alongside the different batteries. But that sounds like too much of a pain to deal with, even if it works.
C D said:
Most likely yes. I imagine most of these 4000–4300 mAh Lithium polymer batteries that started popping up this year are very similar, and some may just be rebranded from the same common factory source. Barring a defective battery, if the two batteries had a significant difference in capacity, you could see things like early shutdowns on the smaller capacity one or being stuck at a low percentage for an unusually long amount of time on the larger capacity one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pistacios said:
Great info.
So it looks like all other batteries on hand should not be put into rotation with the higher capacity batteries to avoid inaccurate readings in Android.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
C D said:
Pretty much this. I suppose one could try keeping separate copies of the batterystats.bin file from /data/system when rooted and swap them alongside the different batteries. But that sounds like too much of a pain to deal with, even if it works.
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Click to collapse
Just to add to this, I found your pics @C D for the charging instructions and there's a note about using 3200mah batteries along with the 4100mah batteries.
pistacios said:
Just to add to this, I found your pics @C D for the charging instructions and there's a note about using 3200mah batteries along with the 4100mah batteries.
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Does that mean that if you switch between the batteries, they'll both last as long as they should (the 4100 longer time than the orig. 3200), but the system's percent will be wrong?
My understanding is that if you calibrate the phone to recognize the full 4100mah and then use a 3200mah battery, it will shut down early (but still use the full 3200mah).
Correct. They are warning you that swapping between batteries of significantly different capacities will throw off the accuracy of the phone's battery percentage indicator at all times, especially at the high and low percent values (so an early shutdown can happen when the smaller capacity battery is used). Of course, this won't affect either battery's true capacity.
I'd pay good money for a system that can correctly handle different battery capacities of any amount, but we all know where the future of hand-removable batteries has been heading for the last 3–4 years.
Does anyone charge their phone ONLY to 80 % or so?
If so, what apps do you use to limit this? Any other tips/advice?
baldybill said:
Does anyone charge their phone ONLY to 80 % or so?
If so, what apps do you use to limit this? Any other tips/advice?
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I use AccuBattery and it has a notification sound that plays when you hit the target charge percentage, but it's still up to you to remove the phone from the charger or else it continues charging to 100%.
Since our phones have replaceable batteries, I haven't made any special effort to take care of them. I have a pair of May '17 OEM 3200 mAh batteries that are going to get switched out for a pair of new 4100+ mAh Li-Po batteries once I get my second V20 set up. Every charger I use is QuickCharge 3.0 certified except for USB on my PCs and my Pioneer Android Auto headunit USB connection in one car. The vast majority of the time, I charge via QC 3.0. Pretty much the only time I let the battery charge via PC USB is when I actually need to transfer files between the phone and computer.
Before my phone started having issues in the past month with a phantom power drain, I would let the phone charge from 30-40% to 80-90% and then remove it from the charger at night before going to sleep. In the last half year as the batteries have aged, I've let it get up to between 90-95% before unplugging. For the past month, I've been charging the phone four times a day from 40-100% to combat the power drain issue, but that comes with knowing that I don't care about these old batteries or the state of the firmware on this first V20 anymore.
As for when I swapped the two batteries I have, that entirely depended on when I actually ran one down so far that I needed a 0-100% battery swap, which could be months at a time and usually happened while on vacation or away from a charging source for a longer period of time than what my usual home/car/work routine allows.