Related
Anyone here using Logitech k400r? Mine had been so weird lately. It keeps turning my screen black.
Anytime I move the keyboard physically , it looks like it's putting the Aftv to sleep. Any ideas friends? Thank you.
No issues with mine.
What condition is your keyboard in?
Your keys could be sticking,or maybe you are just bumping the PC power button that darkens the screen.
retroben said:
No issues with mine.
What condition is your keyboard in?
Your keys could be sticking,or maybe you are just bumping the PC power button that darkens the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Keyboard was just bought another ago. Used for maybe 20 hrs. Maybe even less. But for those first 20 hrs of usage it was fine. Then I went on vacation for 2 weeks. Came back and this issue started to occur.
Obviously,something must have happenned in those two weeks.
But what could have caused such an oddity?
I moved my keyboard around like crazy to see if anything would happen and it did not cause a blacked out screen.
Maybe try taking out the K400r's batteries,unhooking the USB receiver for it,and unplugging you Fire TV when you have to go do something for an hour or two.
It might be a run session issue this whole time causing the issue if you left your Fire TV unused,but left it plugged in.
You are advised by the Fire TV instructions to unplug it if you,or another are not going to be using it for an extended period of time.
retroben said:
Obviously,something must have happenned in those two weeks.
But what could have caused such an oddity?
I moved my keyboard around like crazy to see if anything would happen and it did not cause a blacked out screen.
Maybe try taking out the K400r's batteries,unhooking the USB receiver for it,and unplugging you Fire TV when you have to go do something for an hour or two.
It might be a run session issue this whole time causing the issue if you left your Fire TV unused,but left it plugged in.
You are advised by the Fire TV instructions to unplug it if you,or another are not going to be using it for an extended period of time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll give that a try. Thanks for the advice. I'll update you if it works. Should I take a video of my issue?
I don't use Netflix very often on the AFTV, but sometimes when I run the app I have to sign in again.
I have Netflix on a few other devices and only have this problem on the Fire TV.
Not sure if this happens when I don't use Netflix for a while or maybe when the Fire TV is rebooted?
It's really annoying!!
Anyone else with the same problem?
Seems to happen to me as well from time to time. Not sure the cause.
The closest reason I can find is either a reboot or force close of the app, but even then it still seems random as to whether it does it or not.
I've also had this issue on an lg bd player so it's not unique to the fire tv.
I have this happen as well and always suspected it was related to USB for power but haven't test out my theory. Are you using USB or wall plug to power FireTV stick?
mr3p said:
I have this happen as well and always suspected it was related to USB for power but haven't test out my theory. Are you using USB or wall plug to power FireTV stick?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using a FireTV not a Stick.
I've done a some testing and can't get it to sign me out, have rebooted FireTV and was still signed in, so I'm not sure what triggers it.
helicon9 said:
I'm using a FireTV not a Stick.
I've done a some testing and can't get it to sign me out, have rebooted FireTV and was still signed in, so I'm not sure what triggers it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a fix I used to help with "Netflix unable to play this title" issue. It worked for 3 days and then came back BUT I was also experiencing your sign out problem (at an extremely annoying frequency!) And since doing this it hasn't happened yet (about 5 days)
1. Go to manage applications<Amazon video and press clear data 3 times. Yes 3 times because apparently 1 and 2 don't get it done.
2. Unplug aftv, wait 10 seconds, plug it back in
That made it better for me and some others. At the very least it doesn't try your patience as much. Having to perform this once or twice a week is better than signing into Netflix 3 or 4 times daily. Hope it works for you...
Out of curiosity, do you know what firmware you're running? Rooted or not? Thanks.
KLit75 said:
This is a fix I used to help with "Netflix unable to play this title" issue. It worked for 3 days and then came back BUT I was also experiencing your sign out problem (at an extremely annoying frequency!) And since doing this it hasn't happened yet (about 5 days)
1. Go to manage applications<Amazon video and press clear data 3 times. Yes 3 times because apparently 1 and 2 don't get it done.
2. Unplug aftv, wait 10 seconds, plug it back in
That made it better for me and some others. At the very least it doesn't try your patience as much. Having to perform this once or twice a week is better than signing into Netflix 3 or 4 times daily. Hope it works for you...
Out of curiosity, do you know what firmware you're running? Rooted or not? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will try this this evening, but this is still strange.
Why do we have to do this on the Amazon Video app and not Netflix?!? It sounds awful but if it worked for you, maybe it will for me also
About the USB power, I have the Mission Cables MC9E that has a battery that keeps output voltage constant while in use as my stock USB ports are not enough for powering the FireTV Stick and didn't wanted to use the wall power.
Unfortunately the USB ports is my tv does not give power if tv is turned off, so the battery charges only o if tv is on.
I have been out for a week from home and just returned yesterday and in these days I unplugged all my electronic devices and my tv as well.
Now that I'm back, I plugged everything in and Berkley
Netflix was logged off. I thought was normal as everything was unplugged so I just logged in again without thinning about any issue.
It's still annoying as for example Amazon Video it was still logged in, and wished was the same for Netflix.
Getting to the point, yesterday I used Netflix and tv for less then an hour, then this morning noticed that Netflix was logged out again.
I thought was the battery that was not enough charged to keep some power to the stick, and then watched the tv for another quite hour.
Then this afternoon I turned it on again and Netflix was again logged off.
I'm doubting that the battery doesn't have enough time of power for getting charged, meaning that the Fire stick doesn't get power while turned off and it loses Netflix sinc or something related to is log maintenance.
I'll try to use the wall power for a while and let you know also this.
In case, it would mean that the FireTV Stick must not be far away from power for too long periods so to keep Netflix logging.
I say "must not be far away from power for too long" as if I mica the Fire stick from one tv to another unplugging it completely from power, it keeps Netflix logged!!
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Has anyone seen this? It started a few weeks ago.
I use the AFTV at night.. I turn on the TV which is connected via HDMI. The TV will just be a blue screen. The power light on the AFTV will be off.. I can hit a button on the remote, and the power light will come on.. but still no video.. Nothing I can do will kick the AFTV to get it to show video until I unplug power and restart it.
From there, it will operate just fine.. until it sits idle for too long, the power management kicks in, and it wont wake up again.. back to the cycle..
I poked around the settings etc.. I didnt see anything related to sleep mode.. I have screensaver turned off.
Very strange..
Ideas anyone?
mscroggins said:
Has anyone seen this? It started a few weeks ago.
I use the AFTV at night.. I turn on the TV which is connected via HDMI. The TV will just be a blue screen. The power light on the AFTV will be off.. I can hit a button on the remote, and the power light will come on.. but still no video.. Nothing I can do will kick the AFTV to get it to show video until I unplug power and restart it.
From there, it will operate just fine.. until it sits idle for too long, the power management kicks in, and it wont wake up again.. back to the cycle..
I poked around the settings etc.. I didnt see anything related to sleep mode.. I have screensaver turned off.
Very strange..
Ideas anyone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If possible hook it up to another TV. I think it might be an hdmi handshake issue. If it is you can try different hdmi cables and different ports. If you dont have another tv then turn off your tv with aftv working. Wait a short time and turn on the tv. See if the issue pops up again.
KLit75 said:
If possible hook it up to another TV. I think it might be an hdmi handshake issue. If it is you can try different hdmi cables and different ports. If you dont have another tv then turn off your tv with aftv working. Wait a short time and turn on the tv. See if the issue pops up again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you are on to it. I did some more testing.. Last night I got the blue screen on the TV.. Instead of powering down the AFTV, I unplugged and re-plugged the HDMI and video came in. Its strange this suddenly started happening.. I am not sure what I can do about it.
mscroggins said:
I think you are on to it. I did some more testing.. Last night I got the blue screen on Instead of powering down the AFTV, I unplugged and re-plugged the HDMI and video came in. Its strange this suddenly started happening.. I am not sure what I can do about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unusual it just started happening...are you sure you didnt switch hdmi cables or the port? Could be the latest firmware update but its doubtful because others would probably be complaining about it, and I cant think of why any update at this stage would impact cec.
KLit75 said:
Unusual it just started happening...are you sure you didnt switch hdmi cables or the port? Could be the latest firmware update but its doubtful because others would probably be complaining about it, and I cant think of why any update at this stage would impact cec.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree that is very strange.. I didnt change cables or ports.. but now that I know its an HDMI issue, I will swap some cables or something and see if it makes a difference. There really isnt anything else I can do.. On the tv, switching to another hdmi and coming back doesnt help.. I have to physically unplug the hdmi and plug it back in..
This issue has to do with HDCP and started with the 51.1.6.1 software update. See here: http://www.aftvnews.com/recent-fire-tv-software-updates-causing-blank-screen-issues-related-to-hdcp/
HDCP issues may also increase when the HDMI connection is done in a chain for e.g. with an amplifier between box and TV. The cause is often here that the amp´s do not pass through the HDCP handshake to the TV.
Calibaan said:
HDCP issues may also increase when the HDMI connection is done in a chain for e.g. with an amplifier between box and TV. The cause is often here that the amp´s do not pass through the HDCP handshake to the TV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just read the thread on aftvnews. It definitely seems to be my issue. I swapped to a different cable and it appears to have fixed it. The thread thought maybe the issue was fixed with 51.1.6_3_user_516012020 .. but that is the version I have and the date for the install is Aug 20..
Anyway its a tricky issue.. I guess if you get things working.. dont touch anything !..
Hi All,
I recently unplugged my AFTV2's HMDI cable and then when replugging it, i cannot get video signal back.
I try to restart, and it doesn't get past the Amazon logo. No colour logo at all. It seems bricked form unplugging the HDMI cable?
To make things worse, this is the 3rd box I have had with this problem.
Any ideas what could be causing it? It has Firestarter and KODI installed.
Thanks
Same Here
That is interesting.
About an hour ago exchanged a 3 day old Fire TV at Best Buy for a new one because of this exact behavior. I thought it was defective. It worked for a couple of days, my kid unplugged it and re-plugged it a few times because the screen had gone black, and afterwards nothing. Booted to white logo, then went straight to black screen. I could connect to it with ADB, but it would no longer output video except for the initial white amazon logo at startup.
Also was running Firestarter and Kodi, nothing else (latest firmware, no root)
b1nuzz said:
Hi All,
I recently unplugged my AFTV2's HMDI cable and then when replugging it, i cannot get video signal back.
I try to restart, and it doesn't get past the Amazon logo. No colour logo at all. It seems bricked form unplugging the HDMI cable?
To make things worse, this is the 3rd box I have had with this problem.
Any ideas what could be causing it? It has Firestarter and KODI installed.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
galvanash said:
That is interesting.
About an hour ago exchanged a 3 day old Fire TV at Best Buy for a new one because of this exact behavior. I thought it was defective. It worked for a couple of days, my kid unplugged it and re-plugged it a few times because the screen had gone black, and afterwards nothing. Booted to white logo, then went straight to black screen. I could connect to it with ADB, but it would no longer output video except for the initial white amazon logo at startup.
Also was running Firestarter and Kodi, nothing else (latest firmware, no root)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried entering recovery and doing a factory reset?
See this thread here
I got this type of behavior and in fact it was my TV just unplug it and plug it back
My set up was originally through an amp, but I now have it plugged directly in to the TV. It makes no difference.
I only unplugged it because I was trying to solve the issue where all the blacks are crushed.
Amazon help just keep saying they are faulty and will replace them, but when I push them to try and offer a better solution as to why it keeps happening, they just tell me it won't happen again.
Dull.
gazdaman. said:
Have you tried entering recovery and doing a factory reset?
See this thread here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No matter how many times I try, and believe me, it's a lot of times, I cannot get it to activate recovery.
I also can't get it be seen with ADB. It's recognised on the network, but ADB can't connect.
Just to close this.
It was my AVR putting voltage down the HDMI and causing the unit to brick.
Nothing to do with the AFTV.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am hoping I can find some help in here with a couple problems I am running into on this system that would make it so much better to me.
The system is basically an Android box utilizing the touch screen and monitor of my Uconnect 8.4 head unit. The naming in the settings is rk3188 and is running on KitKat 4.4.4, so it is some variant of the Android TV boxes. If there are other specs or info that are needed to help in possibly fixing my issues please let me know.
Issue 1: although not major, there is no option to have OK Google from any screen. Having this option for a car system is obviously something helpful. In the settings of the Google App trying to access the menu for OK Google detection doesn't work, so I can't even get to the screen where that option lives. I have the most up to date version of Google App and Google Play Services. I have Google searched on ways to fix this but nothing has brought that ability up. I know Android version 4.4.4 was capable of this. There was another app that utilized Googles voice engine and allowed this function but Google made him stop using their servers and killed that as an option.
Issue 2: this is the biggest bother to me and I could not find anything even related to what's happening in my searches. The system comes loaded with some apps and using Launcher3 for its front end, it has big buttons but offers almost no ability to customize it. The bottom row has apps that you cannot switch out to anything else, and 3 of them I will never be using. The system works but is not as nice as it could look or function. The obvious answer is to use a different launcher which is where the problem arises. I have tried to use Nova and Apex so far with the same very frustrating outcome. After the install everything is great, I can set the screen up to look amazing and add icons and functionality that really make it a great experience. So everything is working lovely then I shut my truck off and go do whatever. The next time I come back I start the truck up everything loads fine, the new launcher and everything I did to it is working just as expected until about 5 minutes in the screen goes black for a second and then the system goes through a factory reset. Really? Are you kidding me? The first couple times I thought maybe I hit something because I hadn't fully put my truck back together but after playing with it more and having the system factory reset 5 other times I have concluded it is related to changing the launcher. I tried Nova first, then I tried Apex with the same outcome and same sequence of events. Obviously it's annoying everytime testing this because updating and reentering my info everytime just to try the launcher again is time consuming. The last test the only thing I did was a different launcher so that has to be it, but why and how can I fix it?
If anyone has any clue how using a different launcher would cause a factory reset to happen please help me out. Or if there is anything I can do to this system to prevent that. My last resort thought would be to root it but I read someone else who has this system that rooting it caused screen layout issues and made things go 90 degrees off? The loaded apps in the system have touch screen calibration and screen resizing which might be necessary for this to function with the monitor.
Thanks for any help.
I spoke with someone else that has the system and they are not having any issues with running a different launcher so something happen to my particular device. I contacted the company and they will be getting me the firmware to refresh it and hopefully that fixes the resetting issue.
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
RichTJ99 said:
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting a new unit sent out, it seems there are 2 versions and for whatever reason mine wouldn't let me customize the launcher.
But even though it's outdated, every app I tried worked just fine, they still install the latest versions. The system has 8gb of on board storage and a microSD card slot that is mainly for loading maps for offline navigation. I think you can still access it for other uses, but they have a better option for that. There is a USB input for flash drives or external drives. I tried my 2TB external drive on it and it accessed my movies fine from it.
How did you get it installed? Who?
got any pics?
Actually I would be interested in this too, I have an Alfa Romeo and the Uconnect 6.5 (european version) which isn't that great, it would be nice to attach a sort of box with ARM hardware running on Android and using the display and touch of the existing Uconnect. The question is, how this can be done?
http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/.../24632-android-phone-uconnect-8-4-screen.html
I would check out this thread. It has two videos that walk you through the entire process - great info!
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Diabollon said:
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @michaelk
Good to hear that I am not alone here with this special system V4. Except for the issue with the system time and no root access, I am fully satisfied so far. I hope to fix it soon. If we had root access then we could solve this issue with the system time with some time apps ourselves.
Thank you for your experiences.
Best regards
Diabollon
wiring harness investigation
so played around some today.
I've got an issue where I need to recalibrate the screen almost every time I boot. it seems the box (or card added to the radio?) forgets things and only works the bottom right corner and also seems to rotate 90 degrees at boot. The end result is unusable screen. I think carperformance is just a reseller because of their response. They're friendly and reply quickly but are really unable to help. The first answer was just randomly fiddle with screen and try to find calibrate setting and reboot- that proved impossible and on my own I discovered a 6 dollar USB mouse from the Walmart could be used to navigate to the calibrate app. When I inquired again when it got more frequent they basically said it's not normal and offered no help except to adjust a personalization setting to run calibrate on boot- that only works once that I can figure (might be related to weird time bug)- so I settled on having tasker run calibrate on each boot. I wonder if there is a battery in the box that needs changing but the warranty sticker keeps me out for not- might add an external battery to keep it alive for a longer time to minimize the rebooting
Anyway took everything apart today to double-check and can't find any connection issues. I traced the harness a bit to try and understand a little and basically, the skinny cables run the daughterboard to snag the screen output and the touchscreen input. But i wanted to figure out what is tapped from the radio harness to the large white plug on the box and see if anything going on their .
DISCLAIMER- I NEED TO CONFIRM (it was hot - laughing) but basically seems what is tapped in radio harness is:
1) power and ground also
2) L&R aux audio signal- interesting here is they tapped a single ground (physically next to the right signal) for common. Earlier i had the RAX hack and their harness used a ground for each L&R and their aux input worked all the time without the little plugin shunt thing to trick aux input. When i dug some more and found a pin diagram from mopar I found that the 'left' ground is actually labeled "aux audio device detect signal" I need to play some more to see what happens but my guess is if we put a switch on that to short it to ground then the aux would just work to avoid the hokey plug.
3) Here's the fun- holding the screen to flip inputs could be the daughterboard running things. BUT since it also reacts to the left steering wheel button pack and switches inputs itself when you need the reverse cam- i figured it reads the can bus. and sure enough, it looks like it taps CAN IHS (+) and CAN IHS (-). Very cool that it would get into the whole bus and read anything- BUT since there are other FCA vehicles that don't auto-switch inputs on revers and they have alternate connections it seems the real dev is not involved to update things to sniff for other reverse signals. Reading around here- seems that there is probably a custom serial port someplace in the box that reads this and there's probably no documentation for us to do anything ourselves. But one can hope...
---------- Post added at 06:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the spec for the chipset for the V4 says it can handle an OTG port and a couple (maybe 3?) other USB ports. Obviously, the box only has the one USB A port visible on the pigtail. I wish we could get in the box and look for a header for the OTG port to help rooting but.... the darn warranty sticker.
on the FCA/Dodge side of things- I have a Durango with a USB port and SD card reader in the dash (USB Media "Hub" Apparently, FCA uses USB Mini B connectors to interconnect all the ports and the radio. They use latching connectors that are keyed but if you undo them there's a standard USB mini B in there. They do some odd male/female things so you have to pay attention to where you undo cables, but bottom line you can undo the connector on the back of the dash's USB port and stuff a USB mini B female on it and connect it to whatever host device you want.
I first tried an old laptop in case there's anything weird going on. My Dash "Hub" actually has 2 mini-B connectors and a multipin auto harness. Without the harness when you connect it to windows it sees a USB Hub, but the USB port was still dead. So I assumed it needs power from the harness on the back of the dash hub and connected that. UP popped up a USB mass storage device which I believe is the SD card reader- didn't get around to confirming and then the USB port also comes to life. Knowing that it was safe at that point I connected it to the USB A Host port on the box and presto chango now I have the in-dash port connected to the android tv box without any exposed wiring.
Connected the "android auto dongle" through the cars USB port and that works perfectly. I ordered a used 2 USB dash hub from eBay (later model years have 2 and will see what that does. The pictures of that also show the 2 mini B ports- I'll play some more when I get that. I'm not sure what is in those dongles but from the other folks hacking android auto into older models (by using newer radios) apparently, one port works for android auto and the other doesn't. The scuttle is its a body module programming thing but I wonder if maybe there's something physical in there and so the dongle won't be necessary any longer with the new hub? My other thought is if the two USB min B jacks allow you to connect to 2 different hosts- I would try one on the original Uconnect (in case I ever need to update the software) and the other for the android TV box.
So apparently the android tv box handles hubs just fine. As I mentioned earlier it handles a mouse or USB keyboard fine. Also, I played around and connected my hotspot by USB instead of wifi so the device sees it as a modem and that works just fine- so I assume a USB modem works out of the box too. (again odd if that works that carperformance sells a hotspot and not USB modem- like they don't know what the box can do)
I disassembled my display 2 times until it worked. After the first start, I had a black screen. I thought that was it... After 3 times it finally worked. I also had a cable on the plug which has easily resolved. I think you will also have a loose contact somewhere. One time I also had the display calibration gone. Then I connected my old usb keyboard and could then start the display calibration. I reset the system before. So far, the system works without problems. I also have a passive 4-way usb hub to connect.
I have already connected cables for the frontcam but have not yet moved into the engine compartment.
In the video tutorial of Carperformance, you can see when you switch to drive, the display then changes to the frontcam or signal from the cam, but the display does not change to the Frontcam signal with me.
Do you have with you the signal on the display of the camera when switching to drive?
Adw2 = bad mix
Went back and forth many times in email and turns out my calibration issue was probably all ADW2 launcher, guess it conflicts with whatever app they use to communicate with the display.
in the process of troubleshooting I got the update zip for the current version but I don't think those have recovery partition in there and so can't help root? I need to read some more.
I've ripped everything apart like 12 times with the screen, so that my front cam is not connected right now. For the brief time I had it, it was connected to one of the smaller video in pin connectors and don't think it worked in drive by itself, but can't really say for certain. I think certain models can't get the canbus command to see reverse and if I understand they connect in to the video in on the main connector and then use a point on the car that is energized to trigger the switch on that connection. If your adventurous they seem to have to flip a dip also. I think it's the Cherokees or maybe grand Cherokee so maybe Google their thread's? This site gives connector pin outs
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm
There might be a lead for the drive on your shifter if lucky. I think I read the reverse shoulder comes from a body control box in the passenger wheel well?
Also they're super friendly and never wrong when you email but they can be brief. So you could ask if there's a dipswitch to flip to enable auto switching one of the inputs. Hec maybe we should just ask for a table of where the dips do...
(Sorry for any typos... Will try to edit later)
Supposedly it is enough to connect the extra input cable for DVD or CMMB. That answered me Carperformance. Before, I had no external input cable connected. That's why no signal came. The OEM rearcam works flawlessly.
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
michaelk said:
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it's not available.
Diabollon said:
Unfortunately it's not available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
michaelk said:
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
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Click to collapse
It's a cheaper fix but so no solution. Carperformance should offer a software update with root access. Then we would be satisfied. We should expect it for the money.
My frontcam is working now good.
You already tried Android auto? Which USB dongle do you use? Do you need a special app for this?
My China usb dongle does not want to connect properly with my oneplus 6T.
Edit:
Android auto is working with Pumpkin USB dongle and autoplaybox app. The noname China scrap goes back to shop.
The time fix is working until now also. Thanks for this info. The carperformance, they wrote or informed the affected people who ordered it. I did not get any info.
Diabollon said:
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My frontcam is working now good.
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Click to collapse
besides powering your camera and connecting the yellow RCA video signal did you have to do anything else?
something with the red signal wire maybe?
I cant consistently get a signal on my front cam and not sure if the camera is bad or my setup
---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------
few other notes for others-
FCA "aux audio device detect signal" harness line is actually normally closed (I think shorted to ground)- if you break the connection the oew radio flips right to aux in. make the connection again and it flips back to previous input.
the in dash usb port is infact a powered hub. I originally had a usb + SD card combo and replaced it with 2 usb port and works fine. FCA uses mini b connections to it- just use a usb a to mini b cable to connect it to the android auto box and your indash usb port(s) will work on android auto (And provide more watts to charge your stuff). oddly either dahs hub has a second usb mini b connector that i played around with a little but never could figure out what it does
more can bus fun! - i updated the dongle firmware on the android auto dongle sold direct from carperforance and now it has a beta feature to map buttons. somehow it seems to be sniffing the canbus through the android tv box. it has arrow keys, numbers, enter, etc and you use the app to select the input to assign then you press the same button on the car twice- it sniffs the signal and assignes it. I My durango has the button packs on the steering wheel and i was able to assign up, down, left, right and get it to have the android auto respond. Need to play more but i think it actually goes android wide. For example i think the down button on my steering wheel was sending page down to the chrome browser i had open on the box. Pretty cool stuff if they expand that.