Related
OK, so I dropped my phone and the LCD went out, I hooked the phone up to the laptop and the phone still works fine, even the touch screen works. ( I used My MObiler to see phone screen on the pc).
I bought a new LCD screen off of Ebay and replace it, now, the LCD screen works, but for some reason, the touch screen stopped working.
When I took the LCD apart from the touch screen, there seem to be a layer of grease of some sort between the touch screen and the LCD. I wiped it off with a lens cloth, don't know if that caused any problem.
Also there is a dark film (tinted) glued to the touch screen when looking from the back, what is that for? I looked at replacement touch screen on Ebay but none of them have the tinted film layer. I've search all over the internet for instructions but can't find any.
So my question is, what are the correct procedures for replacing the LCD screen and the touch screen (digitizer) ? Also after I installed the new LCD screen, the screen is very reflective and the glare is really bad, how do I fix that problem?
Thank you experts!!
You should have replaced both the LCD screen and the Digitizer. There are complete kits on ebay as well as instructions/tools to complete the replacement. Did you purchase the digitizer also?
bojangle said:
You should have replaced both the LCD screen and the Digitizer. There are complete kits on ebay as well as instructions/tools to complete the replacement. Did you purchase the digitizer also?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went ahead and purchased the digitizer by itself after the original stopped working. Hopefully, it will get my phone back to normal. Thanks for your reply!
in the wiki theres disassebly instructions of the device that should help you (but you probably already know that since you've already switched out the LCD)
In my experience, i have never replaced either the digitizer, or the LCD by themselves, i've always bought LCD+Digitizer and replaced them as one. Seems like the Digitizer is usually glued onto the LCD and i never wanted to mess with that.
fone_fanatic said:
in the wiki theres disassebly instructions of the device that should help you (but you probably already know that since you've already switched out the LCD)
In my experience, i have never replaced either the digitizer, or the LCD by themselves, i've always bought LCD+Digitizer and replaced them as one. Seems like the Digitizer is usually glued onto the LCD and i never wanted to mess with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I should have ordered the kit instead of just the LCD. What lead me to order just the LCD is when I hooked the phone to my pc and confirmedthe digitizer still worked. And since this is the first time ever I disassemble a phone, I assumed the two things were separated.
But my digitizer should come in tomorrow so I'll just have to wait and see. Thanks for the info.
where did you find a guide to take apart the TP2? I just had the unfortuante luck of smashing mine in the car door as I got in....it fell out of my pocket the exact moment i was closing the door....
My screen is shot, but other than that the device appears to work. I can power on, and try to dial after I press the hard key for the phone pad. The touch portion seems to work, but from your luck, I guess I am looking at having to replace both...
anyhow...any advice on guides and how to find the stuff on the ebay would be apperciated.
I still have 18 months of a 2 yr contract....sucks....and it sucks doubly becuase i just took the insurance off last month....grr..
forcemac said:
where did you find a guide to take apart the TP2? I just had the unfortuante luck of smashing my in the car door as I got in....it feel out of my pocket the exact moment i was closing the door....
My screen is shot, but other than that the device appears to work. I can power on, and try to dial after I press the hard key for the phone bad. The touch portion seems to work, but from your luck, I guess I am looking at having to replace both...
anyhow...any advice on guides and how to find the stuff on the ebay would be apperciated.
I still have 18 months of a 2 yr contract....sucks....and it sucks doubly becuase i just took the insurance off last month....grr..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's a photo guide of the disassembly of a Rhodium (TP2), it might give you some insight. There's also been a number of threads in this section about hardware parts and the screen/digitizer in particular, listing places where people found/ordered replacement parts.
forcemac said:
where did you find a guide to take apart the TP2? I just had the unfortuante luck of smashing mine in the car door as I got in....it fell out of my pocket the exact moment i was closing the door....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The disassembly instructions are here: http://translate.google.co.uk/trans...ka/htc_touch_pro2/&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
I did not follow those instructions since I did not want to open the back of the phone.
What i did was I tilted up the phone and used a very small screwdriver and unscrewed the two screws from an angle (it worked).
Then I pried the back of the tilting part of the phone all around to reveal the inside. Be careful not to pull too hard on the flat cable since it's still attached to the back (body) of the phone.
The LCD and touch screen are glued together (I didn't know that before). At this point I would remove the tape that is attaching the flat cable to the back of the LCD, and also lift up the clear yellow tape and detach the three connections.
The widest ribbon is from the LCD, the medium one is for the 4 hard buttons in the front, and the little one is for the touch screen.
I would suggest wearing some sort of anti-static wrist strap (I think I fried my touch screen along with the flat ribbon that is attached to the phone while trying to replace the LCD without anti-static wrist strap).
Once the whole tilting part is freed from the phone, I would carefully push the whole screen (digitizer + lcd) out from the frame, again, they are glued to the frame but can be removed fairly easy.
That's it, the install is reversed of removal and hopefully yours will work again.
Like I said, I think I fried my flat ribbon so after replacing the Digitizer (it came in today), the touch screen still doesn't work, so now I'm looking for that part, I'd appreciate a link to it if anybody knows where to get one.
Oh, and for the parts, just do a search on ebay for "touch pro 2 lcd" or touch pro 2 lcd + digitizer"
Gook luck with your phone!
What tape to use to stick digitizer back to inner bezel/chassis?
Hi - i got as far as trying to replace my Digitizer only to find that the LCD was stuck to it too. So as clever as i am (not) - i tried to remove the LCD off the digitizer - but that just ended up cracking it.
So i'm in the process of ordering a LCD with the digitizer - pre-stuck together (i hope!) - but my question is:
When i removed the digitizer off the front bezel, there was this spongy sort of double sided tape... i assume it was used for a reason and not just any ordinary double sided tape (presumably to allow a bit of leway between the digitizer and the bezel when pressure is applied to the touch screen)...
Any thoughts on what sort of tape this is? - here's some photos of my digitizer and the bezel:
zedii.co.uk/DSC_0002.JPG
^some of that tape is left on the digitizer... it's the black spongy stuff...
zedii.co.uk/DSC_0003.JPG
^i cleaned (removed residue of sticky tape) in the inner part of the bezel where the digitizer would stick...
Any specific tape to use that anyone knows of?
zedii said:
Hi - i got as far as trying to replace my Digitizer only to find that the LCD was stuck to it too. So as clever as i am (not) - i tried to remove the LCD off the digitizer - but that just ended up cracking it.
So i'm in the process of ordering a LCD with the digitizer - pre-stuck together (i hope!) - but my question is:
When i removed the digitizer off the front bezel, there was this spongy sort of double sided tape... i assume it was used for a reason and not just any ordinary double sided tape (presumably to allow a bit of leway between the digitizer and the bezel when pressure is applied to the touch screen)...
Any thoughts on what sort of tape this is? - here's some photos of my digitizer and the bezel:
Any specific tape to use that anyone knows of?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish you had asked before you ordered the digitizer + LCD, since I ordered mine separately, and they seem to both working ok. The digitizer does not have to be glued to the LCD. But anyway, I just used plain old Gel superglue to glue the digitizer to the bezel. I used Gel superglue so it won't run into the electronics beneath. Things seems to work just fine now.
One thing to consider when you crack open the whole phone though. Be careful not to loose any part from within the phone, because apparently, I lost something, now my accelerometer doesn't work, and my screen doesn't rotate when you slide out the keyboard. Hope it works out for you!
adp9626 said:
I wish you had asked before you ordered the digitizer + LCD, since I ordered mine separately, and they seem to both working ok. The digitizer does not have to be glued to the LCD. But anyway, I just used plain old Gel superglue to glue the digitizer to the bezel. I used Gel superglue so it won't run into the electronics beneath. Things seems to work just fine now.
One thing to consider when you crack open the whole phone though. Be careful not to loose any part from within the phone, because apparently, I lost something, now my accelerometer doesn't work, and my screen doesn't rotate when you slide out the keyboard. Hope it works out for you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the advice adp9626! Well in summary I think I've just been messing about too much and being stupid really.
In the end, I managed to just remove the top part of the screen without actually having to break into the bottom section of the phone.
I was a bit concerned about the whole sticking of the LCD to the Digitizer part. I actually did purchase them separately, however I was not sure what kind of glue was used to stick them both together - as I recall it was a nightmare to try and remove the LCD off the old Digitizer.
So I returned both separate parts (got a full refund as I didn't use them) - and now I am looking to purchase both parts stuck together.
I'm waiting on the guy on eBay to confirm that they are both stuck together. I'm also thinking of using double sided sticky tape to stick the Digitizer back to the inner bezel...
So that's the final plan! I've been a bit silly in rushing with ordering parts etc. but I just want to be on the safe side now - well - at least with the LCD stuck to the Digitizer part.
I will take your advice on the gel superglue if the double sided sticky tape doesn't prove it's stickyness!
Thanks
Zayd.
Can anyone help me find the lcd screen and digitizer as a single unit for Sprint? Everyone I find states not for CDMA.
Thanks
Anyone ??? I spent an hour on google and still came up with no leads.
hyghlndr said:
Anyone ??? I spent an hour on google and still came up with no leads.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ordered one from this guy and it works great. it comes with the entire top half of the phone and the keyboard. There is only one left so you may want to hurry. Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=270583335455&Category=20336&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2
Edit: I wanted to add that they're are slightly used so there will be scratches. The one i received is a little more scratched than my original then again the scratches aren't noticeable when the back light is on and you're getting a working screen.
Just my experience, I had a faulty LCD, digitizer was OK. Bought a replacement LCD off ebay, delivered from China but only cost me £20 inc delivery. Arrived with tools as well (T5, T6, philiips, and pry tool). Followed a couple of disassembly instructions online, took me a while to get all apart but managed it. None of the instructions online go through actually taking the screen out, I thought I'd messed it up as I took the back half of the LCD off and left the front bit on, and I couldnt get it off at first. I ended up using a very sharp scalpel to slide between the LCD and digitizer and got them apart eventually, as I didnt realise that they were glued.
Anyway, I just placed the screen on, no glue as there is a ring of sticky tape around the back of the digitizer which holds the screen in. Connected everything back in the end and its working fine. Only prob is I think I damaged the power/standby button, so be careful when around this area.
Touch Screen not responding after replacement
Recently, I replaced a glass screen on a SGH-M919 Galaxy S4. Previously, during the process of cleaning the glue residues off the LCD screen; I rubbed it with rubbing alcohol and it removed a small streak of the adhesive glue off left side of LCD screen and bottom right corner. After installed the new glass screen, I noticed a few spots of the glass screen wasn't sticking onto the sticky layer. So it looked like it has big air bubble between the glass screen and LCD. And I could see the rubbed off streak on the LCD screen. Everything worked fine with the new glass screen, with the exception of seeing the streak and bottom right corner rubbed off.
A few days ago, I had a table clock fell on top of the phone and broke a piece of glass. Nothing happened to the LCD screen and still functional 100%. So I got a replacement glass screen - the same as the first time replacement. With noticing of the rubbed off streak and corner of the adhesive layer on the LCD screen - I decided to rub off all of the adhesive layer from the LCD. I sprayed some Goof Off liquid on the adhesive layer and left it over night. Next morning I continued scraping off the glue with a small plastic card. Cleaned off all glue residues and examined the LCD screen for any scratches or damage. There was none. Re-installed new glass screen - but now the touch screen does not respond to the touching on the icons. Only the Home, Menu & Back touch button work. I was baffled after this.
Could it be that because I left some the Goof Off liquid on top of the LCD screen over night and it might have leaked to the other side and shorted out something? I saw a few forums that suggested a Factory Reset. I did that - but still didn't work. Please advise on what I need to do to fix this problem.
Thank you in advance for the advise or suggestion.
So you know that these are the TP2 forums, and no one has used this thread in the last 3 years....right?
LCD digitizer replacement.. now black screen
I saw the for replacing the LCD-digitizer of my nexus 4 phone, and followed the steps carefully. After I placed the battery, I checked to see if the phone turns ON and the display is working before I complete the last step of putting the back coverplate. I successfully switched it ON, saw a perfectly working screen, and browsed through my apps. To complete the assembly, I put the back cover by gently pressing the frame along the edges, but suddenly I saw some yellow green lines in the middle of the screen. I switched it off and again switched in ON, but now the entire screen had light with no display.
To fix this, I tried again checking all connections but no luck. What could be the reason for the sudden loss of display when it worked perfectly fine moments ago? Is there a possibility that I damaged the LCD while putting the back cover on the phone?
I am also not sure about one of the ribbon connectors of the digitizer. There are 2 big ones which are prominent and has ports to connect. However, there is a little third one which also has to come through the gap but doesn’t connect anywhere. Has anyone also experienced this while replacing the screen? Any help will be appreciated.
Hello,
I dropped my Touch Pro 2 in fresh water. No insurance of course and no more discount from T-mobile to buy a new phone.
Following video instructions on youtube I disassembled it, I believe without breaking anything.
The LCD screen was gone (water inside), and I bought a new one in eBay.
Once I received it I reassambled the phone. Evertyhting seems to work fine but... the screen is stuck in landscape!
Of course I did soft and hard reset, tried to play / disable the G-sensor and orientation sensor, nothing: I believe it has to do with some switch that recognize when the keyboard is slide open, but I have no idea what sensor is it, I can't find any mechanism that resemble a micro switch or a mini magnet related to the opening / closing of the keyboard. Instead I find a microswitch that senses when the pen is inside, but nothing about the screen.
Any suggestion, does anybody here have any hardware knowledge on this topic? I tried to use software like Gyrator 2 which put a patch on the problem, but I would rather fix the hardware first: perhaps I did not mount something correctly, where is this sensor, is it magnetic or microswitch, I can't see anything even with lenses on.
thank you all in advance
....
I have exactly same problem, my TP2 is stuck in landscape mode. I bought TP2 in the US. My housing was broken so I bought a new one in europe the oem one with lcd screen and digitizer... Could this make the problem?
I am pretty sad, I dont want to buy a new phone :S
The sensor must be in the screen-half of the phone underneath where the red "end call" button is. This is demonstrated if a healthy phone is slid open, and then you pass a small magnet underneath the screen in that area, screen will flip between portrait and landscape.
Which yes I did the same thing today and it was your post randell that helped me. All you need to do is go to walmart purchase the smallest but most powerful smallest magnet you can find. cut you a piece of it, superglue it to the bottom right corner. worked like a charm.
or if you wanted to open your case back up like i did you can superglue it on the inside lol. If you look at your old case you will find your old magnet you can use. simple easy just thought id let you know k bye ta ta.
sabwjawdjw said:
which yes i did the same thing today and it was your post randell that helped me. All you need to do is go to walmart purchase the smallest but most powerful smallest magnet you can find. Cut you a piece of it, superglue it to the bottom right corner. Worked like a charm.
Or if you wanted to open your case back up like i did you can superglue it on the inside lol. If you look at your old case you will find your old magnet you can use. Simple easy just thought id let you know k bye ta ta.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you verrrrrrrryyyyyyyyyyyy muchhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
thank youuuuuuuuu
I was on here by chance and I had the same issue when I replaced my digitizer on my TP2 a year ago. I could never figure it out so I bit bullet and brought a new phone. I will try this when I get home and if it works be great because i loved that phone soo much when I had it thanks guys!!
I replaced my digitizer on my inc and now it will randomly have touches on the screen. I have no idea why this is happening. I have tried two different digitizers with the same problem. It gets worse, i have tried the first digitizer i got on a second phone and this phone has the same problem.
I am running cyanogenmod and have "show touch" turned on so i can tell when its happening and where. The random touches appear to happen all on there own. I can not reproduce them. They do generally happen in about the same spot/spots each time. There are two general areas and when its registers a touch it moves a little, meaning when it touches it self it dances around a little. how ever if i turn off the screen and turn it back on it usually fixes the issue for a while.
Any idea what may be causing this problem and how to fix it?
Funny, I am having the same exact problem. Replaced my digitizer about a month ago and routinely get the "random touches" or just general unresponsiveness while using my phone.
I just assumed it was a side effect of my less then perfect installation but now I wonder if the digitizer itself is shoddy.
freestylesno said:
when it touches it self it dances around a little.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha, excellent...
Have you considered the trackpad as the possible culprit? I know when my phone does similar things (swiping homescreens, moving the cursor when typing, etc) it's usually because the trackpad is dirty. I can't really think of why the digitizer (assuming it was properly replaced) would be causing that problem..
My buddy Bob had this happen to his Incredible too when he cracked his screen and had it replaced. He had it replaced 3x through Best Buy because each time it came back it would freak out like that. It turns out that something inside the phone was shorting out to the chassis, it would only happen when he squeezed/held the side of the phone. They ended up just giving him a new one after the third time.
brando56894 said:
My buddy Bob had this happen to his Incredible too when he cracked his screen and had it replaced. He had it replaced 3x through Best Buy because each time it came back it would freak out like that. It turns out that something inside the phone was shorting out to the chassis, it would only happen when he squeezed/held the side of the phone. They ended up just giving him a new one after the third time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah im thinking it could be something shorting but no real way to test. But after many take apart's i seem to have got the screen to a point where it does it like all the time rendering the phone useless. i have put back on the original screen and am seeing if there are problems there. (i got a new plastic housing)
k_nivesout said:
Haha, excellent...
Have you considered the trackpad as the possible culprit? I know when my phone does similar things (swiping homescreens, moving the cursor when typing, etc) it's usually because the trackpad is dirty. I can't really think of why the digitizer (assuming it was properly replaced) would be causing that problem..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i have disconnected the track pad and tried that with no change. and i tried disconnecting the light bar for a try and it would not boot. but i only tried once and i could have messed something else up when i put it back together.
i will report back with how the stock screen does and i'm thinking that will confirm that its the replacement digitizers .
Well the stock digitizer is doing the same thing. So its someting on the board, but i have tried it on two different phones.
So im up for trying just about any suggestion at this point. I have 2 phone and 3 digitizes doing this.
Mine does the same thing. I replaced just the screen awhile back.
I thought it might be related to maybe an upgraded screen family and the kernel not supporting it or something..
Like this post:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=15132827&postcount=3626
I usually take off the back and then pull the battery and snap the case back on. Seems to fix the problem until I mess with the battery again.
Anyone know how to see what touchscreen version you have?
ok so i have 3 phones(boards) 3 digitizers. 2 phones are the same hardware version i believe, one isn't. and all three experience this problem. This is even with swapping around the digitizers. I'm thinking that somehow all of these share something similar. All i can think of is me putting them together.
Any idea on what they share?
Just wondering if you ever fixed the problem or got it figured out to some extent?
Same thing is happening on my phone ever since I replaced the screen/digitizer. Took it back apart and cleaned all the ribbon connections and the problem is still there. Thinking it might be a grounding issue possibly since it seems like it goes away (most the time) after I vigorously squeeze the bottom of the phone, by the trackpad and capacitive buttons. But it invariably comes back, and seems to be worse when plugged in to the charger for whatever reason.
Also, since you've also taken apart and reassembled your phone, have you had an issue with the trackpad not sitting flush with the screen? No matter how I reassemble everything, it seems like my trackpad is recessed now and it's even worse when I use the little rubber gasket that was on there originally...
I haven't been able to determine what the problem is, but mine seems exactly like yours. When charging I pretty much can't use my phone random touches everywhere, or it doesn't fully reconize my touch. I just took my INC all the way apart and cleaned everything connections and all. I read somewhere it could be a dirty optical pad so cleaned that good too. Just powered on *Fingers Crossed*
odlay75 said:
I haven't been able to determine what the problem is, but mine seems exactly like yours. When charging I pretty much can't use my phone random touches everywhere, or it doesn't fully reconize my touch. I just took my INC all the way apart and cleaned everything connections and all. I read somewhere it could be a dirty optical pad so cleaned that good too. Just powered on *Fingers Crossed*
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
when you replaced it did you make sure you the ground straps where connected to the screw holes with nothing interfering? i pulled my LCD out of my screen on my dev phone because there was dust under the glass. after i put it all back together i was getting the same thing descried in the OP. so i took it apart and noticed that the thread lock used on the screws pealed off and on the ground straps. so i cleaned them up with Alcohol and a cotton swab. put it back together and haven't had it happen sense.
synisterwolf said:
when you replaced it did you make sure you the ground straps where connected to the screw holes with nothing interfering? i pulled my LCD out of my screen on my dev phone because there was dust under the glass. after i put it all back together i was getting the same thing descried in the OP. so i took it apart and noticed that the thread lock used on the screws pealed off and on the ground straps. so i cleaned them up with Alcohol and a cotton swab. put it back together and haven't had it happen sense.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you say ground straps, are you referring to the two tiny screws that are near the top of the actual screen (after you've taken of the red battery compartment thing and the board)? I remember there being these little metal mesh strips that were in those screw holes that I think I promptly lost after taking the screws out..
k_nivesout said:
When you say ground straps, are you referring to the two tiny screws that are near the top of the actual screen (after you've taken of the red battery compartment thing and the board)? I remember there being these little metal mesh strips that were in those screw holes that I think I promptly lost after taking the screws out..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes. after removing the board on the back of the LCD screen there are 2 straps on the top that ground the screen to the frame. the screws had blue thread lock on the bottom. sometimes it will come off when you remove them.
basically make the head of the screw is clean and the metal straps are clean to make a good enough ground.
EDIT:
if you lost the screws you can try to pick up an eye glass repair kit. the ones used for glasses. they have small phillip screws that might work. you can normally buy the kit at a $.99 store.
I was wondering what the screws were for since it didn't look like they were actually holding anything in.. I didn't lose the screws, just the grounding material, which were those metal mesh adhesive strips. Trying to think of what I may be able to replace that with, maybe just some aluminum foil or something? There has to be some better material, I'm just not thinking of it..
k_nivesout said:
I was wondering what the screws were for since it didn't look like they were actually holding anything in.. I didn't lose the screws, just the grounding material, which were those metal mesh adhesive strips. Trying to think of what I may be able to replace that with, maybe just some aluminum foil or something? There has to be some better material, I'm just not thinking of it..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the straps fell off? (the straps are on the back and should be soldered to the drivers on the rear of the screen) i wouldn't recommend aluminum foil. try going to a store like radio shack or any do it your self electronic store and see if the can sell you some fine wire mesh.
Hm, I think we must be thinking of different things, cause these were just tiny little pieces of wires mesh that those screws held into place that were stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. Might have to open it up again and snap a picture or two to clarify if I can't find any other grounding issues, etc.
k_nivesout said:
Hm, I think we must be thinking of different things, cause these were just tiny little pieces of wires mesh that those screws held into place that were stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. Might have to open it up again and snap a picture or two to clarify if I can't find any other grounding issues, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yea thats what im talking about. the 2 straps on top that are screwed in. they need to have a clean connection from the strap to the screw heads that it sits on after screwing them down.
Well I'll be damned, I think that was it! I "borrowed" a little bit of that wire mesh stuff from the back of the screen (it's holding down the screen's ribbon connector and covering other things) and put the screws back in holding little strips of the mesh down and stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. I haven't been using my phone much but the phantom touches and vibration haven't come back, crossing my fingers that it stays this way!
Thanks again synisterwolf, mashed your thanks button a bit
To the OP: I'd highly recommend making sure the screen is grounded properly with those two tiny screws towards the top of the screen.
Thanks for the info guys! Does anyone have a pic of this mesh stuff. I think my old screen had it, but the new screen does not..
odlay75 said:
Thanks for the info guys! Does anyone have a pic of this mesh stuff. I think my old screen had it, but the new screen does not..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lr4uy9yKqIE
3:30 MARK is what we are talking about.
---------- Post added at 11:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 AM ----------
k_nivesout said:
Well I'll be damned, I think that was it! I "borrowed" a little bit of that wire mesh stuff from the back of the screen (it's holding down the screen's ribbon connector and covering other things) and put the screws back in holding little strips of the mesh down and stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. I haven't been using my phone much but the phantom touches and vibration haven't come back, crossing my fingers that it stays this way!
Thanks again synisterwolf, mashed your thanks button a bit
To the OP: I'd highly recommend making sure the screen is grounded properly with those two tiny screws towards the top of the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you are welcome. glad i could help and glad i took mine apart. now i can see how it all works. it was hard with my big hands but it was fun.
i have replaced the entire casing for my wife's T7373. all seamed to go good. when the phone boots up it is stuck in landscape mode. as if it not seeing a switch or trigger to know that the keyboard is in. also the keyboard lite stays on.
i have taken the phone apart again and still i am not sure where the switch is. all i can see is the metal contact ramps on the ends of the slide.
Any help would be great. "wife not happy"
thank you
Lrd_Hawk said:
i have replaced the entire casing for my wife's T7373. all seamed to go good. when the phone boots up it is stuck in landscape mode. as if it not seeing a switch or trigger to know that the keyboard is in. also the keyboard lite stays on.
i have taken the phone apart again and still i am not sure where the switch is. all i can see is the metal contact ramps on the ends of the slide.
Any help would be great. "wife not happy"
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The sensor is magnetic that 'senses' whether or not the keyboard is open.
iFixIt.com is a great site to help with teardowns/troubleshooting.
thank you , that joged my memory. well at least i hope i can get it fixed or the wife will kill me....
I also need to replace my case, the silver colored edge has cracked in a few places. Might I ask where you got your replacement case from? Any tips you can give from your experience replacing it?
for the replacement of the silver case can you find at http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Housing-HTC-Repair-Replacement/dp/B0052QW60Y
and at http://shop.brando.com/htc-touch-pro-2-replacement-back-cover-silver_p04432c1050d039.html
i got mine off e-bay http://www.ebay.com/itm/370526944677?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
had all the parts i needed, everything worked well. only trouble i had was the the magnet for the screen rotation. remounting the brass screw inserts was fun, what i did was use one the longer screws same size. and heated the brass up and screwed the brass insert in.
other little tips. there will be little plastic parts and need re-secured. i just heated up a end of a T25 to melt the little tabs.
have fun it took me about 2 hours and , had to take part the phone a few times to make sure i got it all right.
In addition to the constant influx of iPods and iPhones friends, family, and coworkers bring me to fix, I've taken apart a few different Xperia PLAY phones more times than I can count, so I thought I'd give a few "pro tips" to people who need to know the ins and outs of it. This isn't a disassembly, assembly, or even a repair guide, it's just the stuff I think those guys missed.
First, don't use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the front glass + digitizer. The plastic frame wrinkles and melts readily, particularly right under the face buttons.
Second, make sure you transfer as much as possible when you replace the frame. Replacement frames usually do not include the rubber shroud for the proximity sensor and it will not work right without it. I had one phone that seemingly worked fine until the screen protector peeled off while inserting in a pocket and then no amount of clear tape, screen protectors, or Sharpie-marking would fix it. A salvaged rubber shroud fixed it right up. Some replacement frames have a film-backed adhesive for holding it there and some don't. It probably depends on when they were yanked from the manufacturing line, assuming that they are original parts and not replica parts. You also want to make sure you transfer are the inner dust gasket that goes underneath the frame/glass or else things will be filling up with dust quickly. There is no speaker grill and the foam around it does not stop intrusion. A salvaged frame/glass adhesive is likely to allow dust in unless you didn't have to pick much out of it when swapping (usually glass shards). There are also little metallic grounding foam rectangles crammed in the corners that only one replacement frame I've seen has ever included (was probably salvage though listed as "new"). They probably aren't necessary and I've gone long periods without them, but why wonder if a static charge build up is responsible for your erratic touch screen?
Next, be extremely careful separating the glass from the frame. I've managed to crack good ones even going slowly and leaving gaps filled with picks and pry tools. Heat didn't seem to help much and, as mentioned earlier, is discouraged. Cleaning the screen after man-handling it isn't always easy, but don't avoid touching the back side because you will probably need the area to spread the pressure and avoid a crack. I use a levered "mini suction cup" from Harbor Freight on the top side and as many fingers as spread out as I can on the bottom, but the suction cup is near useless on a cracked screen (even tape-coated). I do suggest covering a shattered screen with tape to hold all the bits together but you are still going to have a hard time cleaning the adhesive up. You can always buy a frame with digitizer pre-installed but I know a lot of you want to buy complete replacement housings instead and it's kind of a waste, but at least you don't need to worry about that adhesive (still: don't forget to transfer the other bits!).
The digitizer parts I've salvaged from phones had higher version numbers than the ones I've seen sold as replacement parts and seemed to be more erratic so I prefer salvaged ones. There can be other problems as well. The flat flex cable from the digitizer is supposed to have an adhesive backing that holds it still where it connects to the tiny cable from the earpiece. Replacements often do not have it, which is yet ANOTHER reason to prefer salvage parts. It may not seem like such a big deal considering that there is a black plastic piece screwed down over it to protect it from getting caught in the mechanism, but the connector does not hold on very well and the phone will not boot if it is slightly out of alignment. If you reassemble it and just get a buzz from the vibration motor with no display and no other sign of booting, check this connection (same thing if the digitizer suddenly stops registering touch). Even a small drop/impact will cause it to happen again, so I recommend securing it with precisely cut tape or hot glue (stay clear of the sliding rails).
Now, keep it clean while you work or you will be staring at that contaminate or thumbprint for a long time. I usually wear fresh latex gloves when working on the glass but it doesn't do much good if you keep transferring oils from the rest of the phone. Wash your hands right before you start and clean the outside of the phone. Before you begin, try just touch a used dish soap dispenser with a damp thumb and run all along to screen except the buttons and earpiece. Do it again with just the damp thumb (dilutes the soap that remained from the first pass) and wipe it with a clean lint-free cloth. Your own clean and dry fingertips/palm should readily absorb any remaining streaks/oils. Be sure to wipe down the rest of the phone too and don't transfer it back to the glass. Once inside I use layer after layer of clear tape to lift gunk from the earpiece (no mesh, remember?). Put on new gloves before you start handling the glass after disassembly, even if you were wearing some for disassembly. To clean the back of the glass I put the adhesive between wax paper while I clean using lint-free cloths, 90+% alcohol, and acetone. For the LCD, use tape to lift most contaminates and resort to alcohol + lint-free cloth if that doesn't work. It doesn't need to be too perfect, especially if scratched from cracked glass. Most imperfections only show when it's off.
Hot glue is great for removing adhesive screw covers without showing pick marks or other signs of tampering but you have to make sure to leave an edge exposed so that you aren't just picking it out of the glue instead. I've been getting mine off cleanly without any tricks like this but it came in handy when I was first disassembling one and there weren't any guides to tell me that there weren't screws under the large silver strip (just covers rivets or injections mold points, IIRC). It's also good for sealing off water sensors, like the one you see through a hole under the battery door. There's another one by the contacts on the battery itself, one by the microphone under the gamepad, and one in the opposite corner under the PS Certified logo. I had an AT&T rep tell me that a brand new phone had a tripped water sensor (LIES!) so I would look for ways to do this with most any new phone.
I can't count how many times I've left the power button out while reassembling. It's not usually that I forgot: It's that it falls out while snapping the back on. I've left the face buttons out a few times too.
My first one had the cable folded wrong after reassembly. It still worked fine for a couple years but did eventually require replacement. Once it folds wrong it'll probably stay that way even after correct reassembly (like mine did). Do not try to attach it to the main PCB using a spudger, butterknife, or whatever to awkwardly push the connector down with everything pulled apart. The only thing you need to do is to slide the cable into the phone's closed position, align the plastic posts on the connector with the corresponding holes on the PCB, and then push down on the PCB until it snaps. I'm sure I tried this first back then but chickened out because the connector didn't snap very easily but that is how you are supposed to do it.
Before I talk about the replacing the slide cable, I want to express my annoyance at all the eBay/YouTube/iFixIt.com people who call it a "flex cable." I don't like the term flex cable because generally ALL cables should be flexible and that doesn't distinguish what it is well enough for people looking for the part. Technically, it's a flat cable or a slide cable, though I wouldn't object to it being called a flex PCB (flex PCBs usually have components other than just connectors like a rigid printed circuit board would). "Flex cable" is silly, redundant, and does not describe anything more specific than just "cable." To complicate matters, there are several actual flex PCBs in this phone to distinguish from when ordering the part. Why did so many people start calling flex PCBs "flex cables" in the first place?! In our case the sliding portion is a *flat* cable, so I can see where "cable" was introduced from, but people say "flex cable" for any flat cable made like a flex PCB these days whether fixed or sliding. At least you know now that you are probably going to have to use the incorrect terminology to find what you want online and sift through many useless results.
*whew*
Now, slide cable replacement is easier than it would seem but intact removal isn't and brand new replacements can be defective. It was a troubleshooting nightmare when I encountered a defective one because I replaced the LCD and glass + digitizer at the same time and suspected/checked everything else first, even taking apart my personal phone multiple times to test parts. The plastic part of the connector on the PCB end must be transferred to the new cable and the old one will not reliably stick back down to it even if you did not contaminate the adhesive. I successfully transferred a cable from a water-damaged phone to my personal phone before fixing up the water-damaged donor phone with a new one, so the adhesive on the salvaged part was weak and I didn't realize how hard it was to remove intact until later. When separating the defective new one there was seemingly no place to pry on one end other than underneath the part where the earpiece/camera connector was located. This broke the side of the connector that holds the locking flap though I was still able to use/lock it. I claimed warranty on the defective part anyway because the connector was not needed for proving the cable was defective (a functional cable works with that connector populated or not). This new part was slightly different from those found originally installed in the phone (different colored plastic connectors and such). The second new one I ordered from elsewhere had double-sided adhesive down the middle, a foil quality control sticker, and the same odd connector colors. I didn't think there was a market for replica parts on this phone but it does seem like more than simple factory revisions. Anyway, removing it involves removing metallic tape then lifting a plate that is still adhered underneath with amber-colored Kapton tape. You can see it from the slide mechanism below. I pinch the plate from above and below with two fingers and lift, gradually peeling the tape which I then fold inside and secure to avoid contaminating the adhesive. The cable has a plastic band across it that fits between fingers on this plate. When secured, this isolates the end with multiple connectors from the movement of the sliding portion, so make sure this is in place when reinstalling. It may be best to avoid removing the adhesive backing paper until after the plate and cable are securely taped back down with both the Kapton and metallic tape while the fingers are holding it in position. If you stick it down first and then secure the plate you may find it slightly too long or short to position inside the plate when securing it all back down. To thread the main connector through the slide board opening it may seem that it will only fit by folding the cable but DON'T! Coil it. Without flattening it, bend the connector 90-degrees over from the cable path and then adjust the angle until you have a coil-shape that you can work through with the connector sideways.
I ordered a "no useable parts" dummy phone just for the heck of it and, other than the Sony Ericsson logo on the fake battery door and maybe the stickers that cover the screws, they really don't have any salvageable parts. You can't swap any buttons, keys, springs, covers, etc into a real phone. The closest would be the face buttons. They will fit in a real phone, but they are too tall and put constant pressure on the PCB switches causing unintended key-presses (especially back and search buttons). The extra height easily protrudes out the top and is not the issue so filing them down vertically won't fix anything. I snipped some excess rubber to more closely match the design of the original buttons but it didn't help. I unscrewed the screw in the corner under the search key and unsnapped the bottom edge of the frame from the back/slide board and they work great until the phone inevitably snaps back together. I'd say they felt better then the original with the extra height (I can't stand how close they are to the screen). It's tolerable with ICS/JB's Navigation Bar (on-screen key functions), but I would rather salvage real buttons or pay too much for the eBay ones ($10-$20; very uncommon part; always sold with crap you probably don't need).
I have yet to find a replacement battery door that includes the rubber trim around the speakers and the foam piece surrounding the rear/noise-canceling microphone. I've ordered a few auctions that show them in the pictures but they always arrive bare. You can transfer them with a razor but it likely won't be perfect. Without them the speaker audio will probably echo around inside the battery compartment and make its way into the mic, though people usually don't notice it. Painting on some Plasti-Dip might do the trick, so try that if it bothers you.
Unlike an iPhone with a million different screws, you don't have to keep track of what goes where and everything is easily accessible. Bare minimum to take it all apart: Some fingernails, a T5 or T6 (pick one) and a PH0, 00, or 000 Phillips (pick one). There don't seem to be any tamper/warranty seals and the only concealed screws are the two obvious ones underneath metallic cover stickers on the display/slide board. There are no screws under tape or labels and no water sensors covering them either. All 6 Phillips screws are the same size but you'll likely want to keep the two with adhesive in their original holes to re-use the covers (adhesive usually remains on the screw instead of the cover). There are only two different Torx screw types but it's obvious what goes where (6 stubby flat ones on the top and bottom, 7 long thin ones around the battery area).
There are bits and bobs taped to and embedded in the rear housing including antenna/RF stuff, some more obvious that others. I've compared and the R800x is very different from the R800at even though the plastic frame looks really similar (R800x has a blocked SIM slot, of course). IMO, any housing swap should be limited to the front frame, the gamepad, and the battery door (only colored parts anyway). If you nicked your chrome, hopefully it was on a button or something that can be swapped (springs are a pain). It may be possible to transfer everything but I wouldn't trust it after all the peeling and picking. The one report I've seen of someone transferring between a GSM/CDMA models seems blissfully unaware of the metal wire behind the volume keys on the CDMA model that isn't there on GSM (at least it's not there on my R800at GSM).
That's all my advice for now. If you are having any trouble, let me know.
Excellent guide, thank you for taking the time to type this up. I think a mod should sticky this.....
Awesome guide! Thanks much for it!
@ozzmanj1 Agree, so more people will notice it.
Thanks for help buddy!!!
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Arevyn said:
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Arevyn said:
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am color blind and never took notice but I switched LCD between R800i, R800x, and R800at and they were all compatible. They have no reason to make anything in that half of the phone different, so they don't.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
narflynn619 said:
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
matfai said:
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
matfai said:
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my experience, cable alignment has also been an all or nothing issue so you probably need to replace the digitizer. It couldn't hurt to realign the digitizer cable first just in case it can avoid an unnecessary expense. That fixed a Cubot C9+ I worked on Saturday (digitizer not working at all) but not the iPhone 4S I worked on yesterday (bottom row of digitizer not responding).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
stuck in safe mode after replace slider cable(flex)
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
docsmiley said:
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Bakisha said:
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
docsmiley said:
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have received a defective flex cable before so it's possible you have also. In my case it didn't work at all (no picture).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Thanks for your replies I'll see if I can get it replaced
Sendt fra min Galaxy S4 med Tapatalk
slide flex replacement
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
dashu31 said:
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are the same. I have also switched then between a "4G" R800at and a R800x. I have also received bad digitizer flex cables that were new. It really is luck of the draw. A lot of replacement parts on eBay are factory seconds, which may have been removed from the production line for good reason. That's why I always order parts in sets of two for anything I know I will need in the future and I always test both. For example, recently I got two iPhone 4S screens and one had the frame installed upside down. Before that I ordered two replacement iPhone 4 30-pin dock replacements and one had a defective microphone. Before that I ordered two iPod touch 2G digitizer/frame assemblies and one didn't work along the left side.
Here I am identifying a couple bad iPhone displays from a lot:
http://youtu.be/TbxzCiGhwPM
I didn't own an iPhone so I had to test them all with the phone the first customer provided.
Edit: Oh! And make sure the problem is not with the digitizer connection under the black plastic cover. Mine works it's way loose all the time and needs to be secured with tape. Even when inserted fully straight and locked, I put it together and find it not working or the display black until I take it back apart and reseat it. It will twist slightly and even the slightest angle affects the connection.