Develop Bugs

How long your phone keep on without charging?

How long your phone keep on without charging? (the USB connections IS charging you know ) (please write the common usage (Wi-Fi, BlueTooth, call time, etc.))
Is there any difference between PC charging and charger charging? (speed, quality etc.)
Yesterday I have FULL PC charge and after 12 Hours of active usage (20-30 min Wi-Fi, 20-30 min. talking, 10 min GPRS, 20 min other staff like gaming) the phone turn off.
12 Hours are not much .
If I charging with charger I will have better time?
10x

i think that when you switch off the phone when you want to charge, the battery take too long. sorry for my bad english

I understand you. Maybe you are right. How long can you use your phone without charging?

Around 3-4 days if I try.

ghostwheel said:
Around 3-4 days if I try.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In this 3-4 days how ofen you talk to phone and use Wi-Fi?

Phone conv are not draining battery a lot
Same for bluetooth
WiFi more
Backlight, gaming and GPS prog a lot
So first, reduce backlight and screen timeout to minimum
Then find a prog to kill unneeded running applications
With 1H phone conv/day -> 3 days
+ BT 2,5
+ Wifi and/or gaming -> 12H
Less for phone+BT+GPS
The 620's best friend is a mobile loader

I see.
10x for the info.
What it mobile loader?
Do you use USB charging or charger?
Is there any direrence?

littleclown said:
I see.
10x for the info.
What it mobile loader?
Do you use USB charging or charger?
Is there any direrence?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I use mine all day with wi-fi and a few hours with BT on, so I bought this charger kit and I'm not worried anymore for the battery life...

i usually use usb charging when i insall program and i dont know exactly how long i use it. but when i used wi fi the battery dont survive more... i dont know. maybe you have installed software that consume your battery.... for example photo contact...

I have optimized the system, and don't use the Photo editor or other heavy programs. My girlfriend plays on bubble breaker for 30minutes per day .
Maybe Wi-Fi uses more power than I think.
Empel1960 I am poor Bulgarian man - 30 bucks is much for me . I bought this phone for about $250 and I am out of money .
I have simple USB wall charger and I use it because my original charger is on US standart, and all bulgarian power slots are on Japanise standart. I think that maybe if I found an convertor for US to Japanese standart and use original charger maybe the speed of charging will be more.

what software do you use to optimize your system?

I just keep clean startup directory (there is one icon for WiFi), don't use software who need to be ON all time (plugins, trackers, reminders, etc) and every time when I end some activity on phone, like gaming, browsing, using camera end so on I use Celetask to shutdown all programs and optimize the RAM. I believe this reduce the power needs of the phone.
For celetask see this:http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=375451

i can find it too in wm 6.1 or not?

I got my Dash about 8 or 9 months ago and it started with WM5. I then upgraded to WM6, and now to 6.1. Over the course of the 8 or 9 months I have slowly noticed my battery go to $h*t. I stopped using my WiFi because of how much battery it would suck up. Now I text a lot and my battery won't even last me a full day. I have to charge it while I'm at work and most likely charge it when I get home. Time for a new battery I'm thinkin.

FYI,
A lot of things determine battery drain. Wifi, Bluetooth and WMP are always hungry and consume battery a lot. Than Radio (some radios require more "juice" according to the hermes, also some radios that work in Europe don't work well in the states or "down under"). Another thing that I noticed, WM6.1 needs more power.
In the end, most important thing is how you charge your battery from the begining. Never let your battery to go below 40%, It is better to do several charges than a full recharge.
Cheers

I have the Dash and I had my battery for about 7-8 months before it wouldn't keep a charge for an hour. When I called T-Mobile they said that was pretty much normal. The upside was I bought a desktop stand with a new battery on ebay for about $17 USD shipped. The battery is working extremely well. I figure by the next time the battery goes out it will be my excuse to get the Sony Xperia X1.
J.

I don't know how money I will give for shipping battery to Bulgaria... It is not normal for me to change the li-on battery in 7-8 months...

littleclown said:
I don't know how money I will give for shipping battery to Bulgaria... It is not normal for me to change the li-on battery in 7-8 months...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Honestly it's not normal for me either. I haven't had a battery go south like this before. Usually what happens is I end up getting a new device between 1 and 2 years.

I charge it all night using the home charger. Then when I get to work i play music through bluetooth and only lasts for about 3 hours before i put it back on the charger at work. Suckss

This is the price of thin design .
I will be happy to use it for more than 24 hours without charging....

Battery issues

Ok, this is just plain frustrating and I have no clue about what to do.
The lifetime on my phone is dropping ridiculously fast. I replaced the original batery (that used to get ran down pretty quickly, about half a day, without using the phone much) with a spare battery a friend gave me (it's from a different model, but a minor modification it fit perfectly. For a while, it worked somewhat more decently (although should I have used the phone, I'd lose about 1% for every 30-45 seconds of usage). But for a couple of days, it started wearing down a lot quicker as well.
For instance, just charging the phone and then leaving it without actually touching it on the desk will leave it at 88% battery life within about 30 minutes.
I've checked the processes to see if there's anything out of the ordinary, but everything seems fine. I'm thinking maybe the battery may have gotten damaged in the meantime since it wasn't the designated model for this phone, but I'm having serious doubts.
Also, I've ordered a new battery which should ship any day now. Hopefully it will solve the issue, although I'm considering getting a new phone.
Any ideas?
Also, the old Asus that I used to have (WM 6.0, standard keyboard) still has an amazing battery life, at least compared to the HTC (it can do about 3-4 days in standby, and 2 days with normal usage. Also, it's able to run for 12 hours while playing music and occasional web browsing. I can barely squeeze two hours of usage from my HTC)

mtranda said:
Ok, this is just plain frustrating and I have no clue about what to do.
The lifetime on my phone is dropping ridiculously fast. I replaced the original batery (that used to get ran down pretty quickly, about half a day, without using the phone much) with a spare battery a friend gave me (it's from a different model, but a minor modification it fit perfectly. For a while, it worked somewhat more decently (although should I have used the phone, I'd lose about 1% for every 30-45 seconds of usage). But for a couple of days, it started wearing down a lot quicker as well.
For instance, just charging the phone and then leaving it without actually touching it on the desk will leave it at 88% battery life within about 30 minutes.
I've checked the processes to see if there's anything out of the ordinary, but everything seems fine. I'm thinking maybe the battery may have gotten damaged in the meantime since it wasn't the designated model for this phone, but I'm having serious doubts.
Also, I've ordered a new battery which should ship any day now. Hopefully it will solve the issue, although I'm considering getting a new phone.
Any ideas?
Also, the old Asus that I used to have (WM 6.0, standard keyboard) still has an amazing battery life, at least compared to the HTC (it can do about 3-4 days in standby, and 2 days with normal usage. Also, it's able to run for 12 hours while playing music and occasional web browsing. I can barely squeeze two hours of usage from my HTC)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe you should get a new and proper battery to your device, maybe your fix does not work anymore. Also you can damage the excalibur motherboard if your messing with different volts from batteries design for other phones.

Well, the battery voltage is the same. So is the pin layout (well, that was pretty self implied). Both batteries are manufactured for HTC phones.
I guess I'll find out when my new battery arrives. However, my phone has been acting weirder and weirder. SD card issues, now the battery... And on top of that, I wonder if the two issues are related.
Edit: also, will the charger output make much of a difference? Say I use a 500 mA charger or a 1000 mA one.

Issue solved. Apparently it was from the SDHC patch I had installed a few days before. Removing the patch did not solve the issue (also, the patch disabled my WIFI) so I proceeded to reinstall WM on my phone. Now it runs fine, with regular battery drain.
I think the patch may have not allowed the CPU to enter idle mode. I can't think of any other explanation.

nah its definitely ur battery. i had the same problem, its that ur battert has degraded and it has become unable to withstand its charge. just call ur phone carrier and tell them. the should send u a free battery.
Source
-experience lol

mtranda said:
Well, the battery voltage is the same. So is the pin layout (well, that was pretty self implied). Both batteries are manufactured for HTC phones.
I guess I'll find out when my new battery arrives. However, my phone has been acting weirder and weirder. SD card issues, now the battery... And on top of that, I wonder if the two issues are related.
Edit: also, will the charger output make much of a difference? Say I use a 500 mA charger or a 1000 mA one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know some HTC batteries are the same voltage, but why do you think they make different ones especifically for every model eventhough they have the same voltage.
Just to let you know and regarding the output charger; I did a little experiment once, with motorola chargers (V3) since you can charge your dash with them but I tried to charge the exact phone (motorola) with the original HTC output charger.....and it didn't charge at all.
After months of using the motorola charger I started to realize my battery was not working well in my excalibur and in a period of 4 months my battery didn't hold a charge for more than 3 hours. I bought a new one and I strictly used the orginal HTC charger.
My battery is 9 months old now and works like charm (2 days + hours) with the latest ookba 3vo rom.

[Q] Strange battery problem

Hi all,
My battery drains really fast, faster than normal if I see the replies to the calibration thread. After less than half a day (as in 6hours) with wifi turned on and "playing" a bit with it (exploring apps, check them out etc.), say about 2hours of intensive use, my battery is at 25%. It never lasted longer than 24h, that's with wifi off most of the time. Running CoPilot it lasts only 2-3hours. I tried the calibration for nexus one posted in android dev forum several times, including battery stats wipe. It's at 29% but overcharged says 3762mV, also if fully charged it never goes above a certain V which I don't remember right now but I'll post back when it's fully charged The V it stays at is a lot lower than the replies on the calibration thread said it should be, that's why I'm think my battery doesn't charge fully.
I'm running LeeDroiD with no setCPU.
Is this behavior normal? Do these mV's correspond with the batt %? (29% <> 3762mV)
Thanks!

I'm using Leedroid as well, but I don't see excessive battery usage.. Most of the time I can survive for > 12 hrs..
from my Desire + XDA App

I have the same problems as you with a short battery life, I upgraded the battery to one with a larger capacity but that makes no difference, I have been told that this is a common problem and a fix will be out in the near future from HTC.
I also use Co-Pilot and when I ran it the battery could not keep up, I bought a car charger from e-bay and it may be a fake and I now have the new charger with the USB plug and that works ok, if you have a car USB charger try using it with the original sync cable, if the battery stays full then the old charger is at fault. My understanding is that there are a lot of fake chargers and accessories out there and they look the part but do not supply enough power to run with the phone running Co-Pilot.
Hope this helps.

iveco420 said:
I have the same problems as you with a short battery life, I upgraded the battery to one with a larger capacity but that makes no difference, I have been told that this is a common problem and a fix will be out in the near future from HTC.
I also use Co-Pilot and when I ran it the battery could not keep up, I bought a car charger from e-bay and it may be a fake and I now have the new charger with the USB plug and that works ok, if you have a car USB charger try using it with the original sync cable, if the battery stays full then the old charger is at fault. My understanding is that there are a lot of fake chargers and accessories out there and they look the part but do not supply enough power to run with the phone running Co-Pilot.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply. I meamt that woth copilot running on pure battery, with the charger connected no problems.. good to know that i'm not the only one woth this prob.

iveco420 said:
I have the same problems as you with a short battery life, I upgraded the battery to one with a larger capacity but that makes no difference, I have been told that this is a common problem and a fix will be out in the near future from HTC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A lot of the extended batteries on the market are well below their advertised capacities (see here). I've not heard of any official "fixes" for battery life, but then again I get 30+ hours from a charge,
Regards,
Dave

Yeah I'm not gonna buy a non-genuine battery; simply don't trust them.

I have spoken to HTC about the battery problem a few times and according to the guy I spoke too there is a patch that will be released soon, I dont know the exact details but it is supposed to help the battery life, my phone would be dead if I ran Co-Pilot for an hour.
I am now using a 1600mAH instead of the standerd 1400mAH, the battery is the same size as the original and was supplied from a trusted manufacturer. I have also killed my task killer and will wait and see what happens, some people say that its not neded or HTC would have built one into the software, so I will give it a go for a week or so and see what how it works out.

Well hope this "patch" helps and it'll be integrated in the custom roms. However, a task killer isn't necessary because of the way android is designed. Apps get hibernated as soon as they don't require any interaction/resources anymore (eg. Load a webpage and immediatly go to home; Internet will load its webpage and as soon as it's loaded the Internet app goes into hibernation so effectively its killed just takes some ram (i think), at least it doesn't use any resources at this point anymore).
Services, however, run continuously and do indeed take battery the whole time.

Kaiser-Increasing battery life-easy fix

Additional information I have gained through personal experience:
If you KNOW your battery is good, you can increase the battery capacity to 1500mAH without failure, and increase your usage rate somewhat.
I cannot guarantee this will work for everyone, but in the past I have had no issues running either of my good batteries with 2400 units.
I unplugged my phone this morning at around 5:30AM and only used it for one phone call, some facebooking and some market searching ("Waze"). I am currently at 47% battery with 1156 of 2400 units as of 8:45PM.
Again, I wouldn't try this with a bad battery as increasing this number lowers the actual mAH number that the phone needs to properly display the "please charge your phone" message when the battery falls below 15%. I learned this by watching the phone drop to 0% and stay there an estimated 2 hours and 45 minutes with light use and a good battery. The marked bad battery would say fully charged for a couple hours and suddenly drop to 15% and last maybe 30 minutes in this state before finally dying out. And that was with a standard 2150 units marker. Increasing the number of units increases the "span" of usable power from the baseline of 4.2 volts to below the 3.7 volt limit.
Hope my explanation wasn't too boring and someone has good luck doing this as I have...

Actually, changing the number of units has absolutely no effect on how long the battery lasts. It just makes the meter more or less accurate. Check out this old thread where I worked with several others to figure out how the battery meter works, and how to make it as accurate as possible.
If you are having a hard time believing me, please try measuring the time between unplugging with a full charge and the phone dying: with various high and low numbers of units. You'll find that although the meter changes dramatically, the actually battery life does not. But don't do that unless you really need to be convinced, because such 100% to 0% cycles are really bad for your battery.

I use the standard 1350mAH setting for my battery, which is 2170 units roughly. The please charge your battery appears at 10% everytime, and will drain to 0% and hold for about 10 minutes before dying.
So yes, n2rjt is correct. Changing to mAH has 0 effect on the battery life, but how the battery meter is displaying the current charge.

So the matrix at which the battery charge is displayed is adjusted by the amount of "units" displayed under a "FN-Left Softkey" screen. I understand that the battery is only good for 1350MAh, but that does not explain the findings I have on 2 almost identical Kaisers, which is the shut-off on 2150-2170 units comes much sooner than if set to 2350 or 2400.
Is it possible that, with the newer .32.9 kernels, the processor/radio/GPS/etc. or something else is not drawing as much power with my different unit settings?
I can reflash a new kernel with the standard 2150 unit setting, install a clean Froyo on both and pull the sim and SD cards in an attempt to test my theory if needed, but I find it strange that the actual "daily use" battery levels had increased after using 2400 as a blueprint for the battery.
I trust y'alls judgement on this, and I'm not trying to throw stones in a glass house, I'm just sharing my experience.

Testing is done on both phones. The phones were both set up identically with the only difference being the amount of units used for battery status.
Both phones had no sim card installed, radio 1.70.19.09, 2.6.32.9 kernel flashed theough RUU, identical Samsung 1350mah KAIS160 batteries, and identical 256mb Sandisk microSD cards. No other files were placed on the SD cards other than what would be needed to install Android and updates through replimenu 0.9.
(Luckily I had a spare phone or I wouldn't have been able to do this.)
Parameters for the testing were:
1. Flash L1q1d kernel on both phones, one set to 2150 units, the other at 2400.
2. Install Froyo through replimenu and recharge phones
3. remove both phones from their chargers at the same time and see which dies first.
(2 cheap "PW-1BGT" chargers used and swapped between phones).
Under the circumstances, I did find the 2400 phone to last longer, albeit only a short period (2 hours and 20 minutes average)... Not enough to prove a real leap in battery performance.
It took me almost a week to perform this test but the results were less than great, even after the first result of 3 hours and 10 minutes difference came through. I think one phone may have a better charging system as the results varied more than 1 hour across 2 phones. Once the batteries were swapped I noticed a slightly longer charge time on one phone that swapping chargers did not fix.
All-in-all this was an experience to say the least. I will say that there is a variance in the charging ability of one of the phones in that it seems to provide a slower charge, which could be why it seems to last longer. Although I flashed both phones with the unit count swapped, the "older" Kaiser seemed to be the winner in battery life. There was only a slight (30-45 minute) difference between them in both scenarios, and I don't think this difference would show up had the radios been on.
On a last note, IBM wrote a supplement for their Thinkpad series of notebook computers
www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/PFAN-3QNQJN.html
In this document is stated that Ni-MH batteries should be deep-cycled but not Li-Ion. Our phones never pull the battery down below the 2.8 volt threshold as the phone won't stay on or even start in this condition.
In closing, I think the difference is in what the phone "sees" as a battery voltage and afixes a place marker for when the shutdown should occur. I've had the phone sit at 0% for a couple hours on 2150 units, but not with the 2400 setting; 0% only lasts 45 minutes to an hour @ 2400 units with radio, GPS and data on.

After about 2 weeks of continued use, I have noticed a trend... a good one, I think.
The amount of units displayed to Android through the kernel has increased, apparently on it's own.
I started with 2400 units almost 2 weeks ago; I am now just over 2510 adjusted, with no outside influence by me. I have not changed anything about what I do with the phone on a daily basis.
I noticed this after not paying it much attention because each day of the week is almost exactly the same (up at 4am, phone off charger at 4:45, use it at work and home, plug it back in at 10pm).
Anyone want to bite into this one, or y'all just think I'm full of it?
(I almost wish I could take screenies of the "Fn-left soft key" screen)...

You're too new on this matter. The Kernel, last i remember, was altered to try and detect if the battery is in a better state (or bigger than the stock) than originaly thought. So, it is increasing the units to compensate the max mah it detects when the charging start to get really low.
Go read some threads! you'll find it rejuvenating

daedric said:
You're too new on this matter. The Kernel, last i remember, was altered to try and detect if the battery is in a better state (or bigger than the stock) than originaly thought. So, it is increasing the units to compensate the max mah it detects when the charging start to get really low.
Go read some threads! you'll find it rejuvenating
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed! Try entering that larger amount next time you edit your kernel, and you might find it to be more accurate. That's why it adjusts over time. It does NOT remember the recalibrated number across reboots, because there are too many reasons the auto-calibration can be wrong.

Weird
Well thats weird,
I have Kaiser with uptime for more than 350 hours and my adjusted value is now 3091.
And it last for two days.
Battery is standard 1350mAh

frantisek.sobota said:
Well thats weird,
I have Kaiser with uptime for more than 350 hours and my adjusted value is now 3091.
And it last for two days.
Battery is standard 1350mAh
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
n2rjt said:
It does NOT remember the recalibrated number across reboots, because there are too many reasons the auto-calibration can be wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And you've probably found one of them.

I'm lucky to get a day's worth, lol. Granted I'm running an experimental Kernel that I'm working on for boosting battery life while phone is in use.

Battery info via Spare Parts battery information page:
level 83
scale 100
health good
voltage 4018
temp (always) 36.8º
tech Li-ion
time since boot 2:19:45
I can't remember what the values were with a 1350 setting, but this seems to be working somewhat to my favor at 1500mAH.

2 weeks later and still going well into the 2400s'. 2482 to be exact with one adjusted rate being 2517...
Only difference noted is that the battery light only goes red at 9% or lower remaining.

Battery status update 7/22/11
Phone taken off charger at 5:40am... Facebook, Google+, texting and one 3 minute call so far today.
Currently @ 1:15pm...
70% remaining
3.923v
Battery counter at 2632, does NOT hold across reboots but Scoot's kernel keeps reboots to a minimum.
If anyone cares...lol.

[DISCUSSION] Use stock ROM for your battery's health

Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.

minhntp said:
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also felt the same...Though the charging speed on custom roms is higher...in terms of stability of current, Stock Rom is the best.

minhntp said:
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In terms of stability, I have different results, when I charge using a custom rom the phone tends to stay cool, but when I used the stock rom the phone got a lot hotter then before charging.

Custom ROMs may not be utilizing QC properly. QC 2.0 has few discrete voltage/current steps, while QC 3.0 has many (200mA increments iirc) designed to strike a balance between charging speed and heat. Maybe it's getting stuck in QC 2.0 mode and the temperature feedback isn't working properly?
You could just use a non-fast-charging wireless charger, if you're only charging up at night. 5v/~1A is pretty much harmless, it's just on the slow side of things.
fyi, battery capacity (as tracked by the charging controller driver, I guess) is stored at sys/class/power_supply/bms/charge_full; it defaults to design capacity until a full charge cycle has been completed* and then I suppose is revised each time the driver tracks less energy has been stored after a complete charge. Cycle count, cell resistance and a couple other things are also stored here. I think all values are persistent until the battery is physically disconnected.
Might be worth doing a full discharge+charge (to 100%, then let it sit for a few hours to saturate) to see if your battery is worn enough to warrant pulling the phone apart. Accubattery does seem to be more or less accurate, so you charge while it's on you can get a real-time idea of how much has gone in.
* a full charge might be from 1% to 100%. It might be from 5% to 100%. Who knows! I've charged from 2% to 100% a couple times and not had cycle_count increase.
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
edit: hmm, thinking about it...bms = Battery Management System? (not this one specifically, of course)

Septfox said:
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is possible that you bought a smaller battery - but you should know that the capacity of Li** batteries increases within the first couple of cycles. Also usually the nominal capacity might be different from the real (typical) capacity. So you would need to meassure a.new original battery against your replacement battery (not take the value LG tells us for.granted)

daniu said:
It is possible that you bought a smaller battery - but you should know that the capacity of Li** batteries increases within the first couple of cycles. Also usually the nominal capacity might be different from the real (typical) capacity. So you would need to meassure a.new original battery against your replacement battery (not take the value LG tells us for.granted)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Li-po capacity hasn't really gone anywhere in a while, and I wouldn't expect cheap eBay batteries to be using the newest and best chemistry. It was definitely undersize/weight; I attached some pictures.
Because I wanted to be absolutely sure before I called the seller on it, I purposefully ran it four full cycles, then built up another two during normal use. The best capacity that the BMS ever rated it for was 2980mah, while Accubattery put in something like...3060mah once with subsequent charges in the 2900-3000 range.
While I get what you're saying, I find it unlikely that the BMS would set to the expected design capacity if they were using undersize batteries from the factory.
The reason being that at a guess, the battery "fuel gauge" is probably based on capacity_full, which = capacity_full_design until set. With a new phone that isn't charged to 100% (thus setting capacity_full), if using the phone down to 1% you'd risk either a) the phone suddenly shutting down at ~10% or b) overdischarge damage if the battery is actually less than the phone's design capacity.
Kind of a corner case though, I'll admit, since this would only be on the first run.
Last, I submit my own OEM battery for consideration: prior to taking it out, it had accumulated 537 cycles and had a recorded capacity of 2485mah. That's about what I'd expect from a 3300mah battery that was almost certainly used "normally" e.g. discharged daily, charged nightly and left on the tap at full charge for hours on end.
Like you said, though, the only way to know for sure would be testing a new OEM battery, and we've been fresh out of those for a year and a half now. Maybe someone could nab one from one of their newer models and test for science? I already have too many spare lipo cells laying around.

Septfox said:
Custom ROMs may not be utilizing QC properly. QC 2.0 has few discrete voltage/current steps, while QC 3.0 has many (200mA increments iirc) designed to strike a balance between charging speed and heat. Maybe it's getting stuck in QC 2.0 mode and the temperature feedback isn't working properly?
You could just use a non-fast-charging wireless charger, if you're only charging up at night. 5v/~1A is pretty much harmless, it's just on the slow side of things.
fyi, battery capacity (as tracked by the charging controller driver, I guess) is stored at sys/class/power_supply/bms/charge_full; it defaults to design capacity until a full charge cycle has been completed* and then I suppose is revised each time the driver tracks less energy has been stored after a complete charge. Cycle count, cell resistance and a couple other things are also stored here. I think all values are persistent until the battery is physically disconnected.
Might be worth doing a full discharge+charge (to 100%, then let it sit for a few hours to saturate) to see if your battery is worn enough to warrant pulling the phone apart. Accubattery does seem to be more or less accurate, so you charge while it's on you can get a real-time idea of how much has gone in.
* a full charge might be from 1% to 100%. It might be from 5% to 100%. Who knows! I've charged from 2% to 100% a couple times and not had cycle_count increase.
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
edit: hmm, thinking about it...bms = Battery Management System? (not this one specifically, of course)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have sleep problem after changing the battery? After changing the battery, my phone doesn't go to sleep when the screen is off, so the battery just keeps draining. I'm using stock ROM. I don't know if this is a software of hardware issue.

minhntp said:
Do you have sleep problem after changing the battery? After changing the battery, my phone doesn't go to sleep when the screen is off, so the battery just keeps draining. I'm using stock ROM. I don't know if this is a software of hardware issue.
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Click to collapse
The only thing notable that happened was the battery stats getting wiped. Otherwise the phone behaved normally.
Try getting BetterBatteryStats, second post has the newest apk attached (2.3 iirc).
Start it up to get it established, Set Custom Ref. from the menu, shut the screen off for...ehh...20min.
Turn it back on, select Custom in the left drop-down menu and Current in the right drop-down menu.
Check Kernel Wakelocks and Partial Wakelocks using the top drop-down menu to see if anything sticks out.

Septfox said:
Li-po capacity hasn't really gone anywhere in a while, and I wouldn't expect cheap eBay batteries to be using the newest and best chemistry. It was definitely undersize/weight; I attached some pictures.
Because I wanted to be absolutely sure before I called the seller on it, I purposefully ran it four full cycles, then built up another two during normal use. The best capacity that the BMS ever rated it for was 2980mah, while Accubattery put in something like...3060mah once with subsequent charges in the 2900-3000 range.
While I get what you're saying, I find it unlikely that the BMS would set to the expected design capacity if they were using undersize batteries from the factory.
The reason being that at a guess, the battery "fuel gauge" is probably based on capacity_full, which = capacity_full_design until set. With a new phone that isn't charged to 100% (thus setting capacity_full), if using the phone down to 1% you'd risk either a) the phone suddenly shutting down at ~10% or b) overdischarge damage if the battery is actually less than the phone's design capacity.
Kind of a corner case though, I'll admit, since this would only be on the first run.
Last, I submit my own OEM battery for consideration: prior to taking it out, it had accumulated 537 cycles and had a recorded capacity of 2485mah. That's about what I'd expect from a 3300mah battery that was almost certainly used "normally" e.g. discharged daily, charged nightly and left on the tap at full charge for hours on end.
Like you said, though, the only way to know for sure would be testing a new OEM battery, and we've been fresh out of those for a year and a half now. Maybe someone could nab one from one of their newer models and test for science? I already have too many spare lipo cells laying around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is the full capacity when you put those 2 battery in?
I just bought a battery. This new one has 6 symbols each line (like the one you bought) and 2 lines of manufactured date. The old (original) one has 5 symbols each line and also 2 lines of manufatured date.
When I check "charge_full" after full charging, it shows 3312000 for the original battery and 3230000 for the new one, while the "charge_full_design" being 3312000 for both battery.

minhntp said:
What is the full capacity when you put those 2 battery in?
I just bought a battery. This new one has 6 symbols each line (like the one you bought) and 2 lines of manufactured date. The old (original) one has 5 symbols each line and also 2 lines of manufatured date.
When I check "charge_full" after full charging, it shows 3312000 for the original battery and 3230000 for the new one, while the "charge_full_design" being 3312000 for both battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All three batteries I've had showed the same 3312000 charge_full_design. But I'm not sure if this is relevant to us, aside from as a reference to compare to.
Out of curiosity and so I don't purposely give outright bad information, I went and looked at the kernel (up on github courtesy of lunar-kernels).
3300mah design capacity is set when the kernel is built (BLT34 battery profile, which is grabbed by the power manager).
I'm not sure where the number "3312000" specifically is coming from. I can't read the source for the BMS well enough to tell why it's coming up with that number, aside from it's a calculated result based on more than just the design capacity.
Based on the above and other behavior, I don't think any permanent information is stored with or retrieved from the battery itself; design parameters are set in the BLT34 profile and then the BMS amends certain things as it takes measurements. It assumes that whatever attached battery is actually 3300/3312mah until proven otherwise (calibrated with sufficient cycling).
Said measurements are stored ~somewhere~ outside of the ROM, recovery and download mode - mine persisted through the LAFsploit process and TWRP on both partitions - and cleared when power is lost. Maybe they're stored in RAM somewhere? Maybe the BMS notices the discontinuity in power and assumes a battery change, resetting everything? I'll try making sense of the kernel source to see...
The labeling difference is curious, and something I hadn't really given thought to. The newer ones have NOM and NYCE marks, which are Mexican safety approval things. It's interesting that the originals don't have them; maybe because LG doesn't make phones for the Mexican market and thus saw no need? I doubt these third-party manufacturers have gone out of their way to actually obtain said approval...probably just stuck them there to satisfy customs.
I bought a battery from another seller and installed it this weekend; it uses the 12-symbol style as well, has date+date code like the original (dated a rather shiny 2019.09.08!), and weighs the expected 48g/has an OE-style "stepped" back making it thicker.
Seems to charge fully and otherwise work as expected. charge_full still = charge_full_design, I'm not sure if this is because the BMS has determined that it's an OEM-capacity battery, or it hasn't cycled sufficiently to update. Gonna keep an eye on it. Pictures attached.
Edit: battery listing on ebay. Note if anyone else buys it: the suction cup that came with mine was 100% useless. Plan accordingly.
-
A further note on the smaller battery I bought: it did perform admirably. It had no issues when using the phone as a power supply (~2.5A sustained output), right down to where I stopped it at 5%, which is rather abusive for cells in this form-factor. It was just...well...smaller. It certainly wasn't a bad battery at all, it was just misrepresented. Lighter/slightly-smaller batteries would make great travel batteries, if the V30 were swap-friendly...
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@Septfox
I hope you bought a good one.
The battery I bought lasts long, but also takes long to charge (about 2 hours). The phone shows fast-charging but when I check battery log in Hidden menu, it shows only Quick charge 2.0.
I found a way to reset the battery information, hopefully sellers don't use this to reset the cycle count.
There's a thread on xda that shows a method to reset battery information on HTC phones. That is holding down 2 volume buttons + power button (volume down + power for LG V30) in 2 minutes while the phone is being charged, let the phone restart as many times it takes in 2 minutes. And then charge the phone to full.
I did that and when I check in Hidden menu, the battery information was resetted to 3312000 full capacity and 0 cycle count.

minhntp said:
@Septfox
The battery I bought lasts long, but also takes long to charge (about 2 hours). The phone shows fast-charging but when I check battery log in Hidden menu, it shows only Quick charge 2.0.
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Click to collapse
QC 3.0 wouldn't outright increase the speed any; it exists to help reduce heat and provide more consistent charging.
If it makes you feel any better, mine is also getting stuck on QC 2.0. Judging by the way the Parallel Charging status flickers on and off as I move the cable and put pressure on the connector, I could probably stand to get a new charging port...
This is why wireless charging is a good idea. But now that I think about it, replacement boards are cheap on ebay ($5), so replacing it each time the battery is changed might be a good bit of cheap maintenance to do :good:
Have you tried a different cable and/or charger to see if your charging improves? Maybe you need a new port, too.
minhntp said:
I found a way to reset the battery information, hopefully sellers don't use this to reset the cycle count.
There's a thread on xda that shows a method to reset battery information on HTC phones. That is holding down 2 volume buttons + power button (volume down + power for LG V30) in 2 minutes while the phone is being charged, let the phone restart as many times it takes in 2 minutes. And then charge the phone to full.
I did that and when I check in Hidden menu, the battery information was resetted to 3312000 full capacity and 0 cycle count.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find this slightly alarming, actually...
The normal button combination to hard-reset the phone is power+vol down. This might just be what's happening, and by making the phone do it repeatedly, the firmware might be interpreting it as a bootloop condition caused by something in memory and completely disconnecting power in an attempt to mitigate it (clearing the battery stats in the process). Probably harmless though.
Dunno that a seller would bother trying it, though. What do they get out of it, other than a seemingly-new battery with less capacity than it should have? It would just recalibrate when charged and show the real capacity in the hidden menu, and the game would be up :v

Septfox said:
QC 3.0 wouldn't outright increase the speed any; it exists to help reduce heat and provide more consistent charging.
If it makes you feel any better, mine is also getting stuck on QC 2.0
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Click to collapse
All V30 always show QuickCharge 2.0 in Nougat as well as Oreo. Not sure about Pie.
Speculation was it was a script error, that it was really 3.0 -- but falsely shows 2.0.
Can't remember if it was ever proven one way or the other.
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
I'm still on rooted Oreo, so I don't care.

ChazzMatt said:
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
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I don't notice my phone charging any different. Even when using wired.
Sent from my LG-H932 using XDA Labs

ChazzMatt said:
All V30 always show QuickCharge 2.0 in Nougat as well as Oreo. Not sure about Pie.
Speculation was it was a script error, that it was really 3.0 -- but falsely shows 2.0.
Can't remember if it was ever proven one way or the other.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read "the display may not be correct, so you should totally use this as an excuse to get a newer charger-doctor that supports QC".
...and you're completely right, I'm gonna go do that :v
ChazzMatt said:
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
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Click to collapse
Or to mitigate further aging by reducing internal heat. I also remember seeing somewhere that it was limited to 12w or 13w, now that you mention it, though that might have been for 15w wireless which has a reputation for slow-cooking the battery (in any phone, not just the V30).