howdy iam pretty handy with the solder tools
SMD isnt really hard for me..
but i cant figure out how to (easy) solder the bga memmory..
need input ..
greetz
are you sure it will even work?
if the memory map is not made for more
memory it will just still report the org size
and never use the extre mem
hmm thats true...
forgot about that..
ill first check the prices..
so i know my worst casse scenario.. (iff i dont **** up the solder proces )
hehe..
greetz subbie
Seeing as you don't have access to the 'pins' on a BGA device, you will not be able to hand solder it, I'm afraid.
u need a hot air blower
ahhh
if it will melt lead/tin than it will surely melt my other pcb casings and stuf ..
Hi Subroutine,
Normally a BGA is soldered with the help of a Pick n place machine..which has a BGA capability...
From whatever experience I hv in PCB assembly, U usually get hold of a SMD Solder paste properly mixed( I dunno the ingredients and proportions) and then just place it on the PCB..then wash the surrounding area with IPA and done.
Hot Air blower is needed to troubleshoot any SMD IC for dry soldering or completely removing it..that too u hv to be very careful about the cycles used for blowing it...
I hope this may prove helpful..
!
BGA devices aren't intended to be hand soldered, rather processes like vapour phase reflow ought to be used.
I've not worked with BGA devices but would be very interested to hear of any success with hand soldering with a heat gun!
I wouldn't have thought it would be a good idea to apply further solder paste - the Balls are solder anyway and adding more might make bridging more likely.
Anyway - good luck and please lettuce know how you get on!
Bloney
PS: You might be able to find a local PCB assembley company with the appropriate equipment who'd help out for a small fistfull of cash..!
ohh well BGA soldering is doable..
but only if you solder a new pcb, because you dont have to
be carfull with surounding components because there arent any..
if you have to add a components than its a different ball game in my opinion
because of the risk off desoldering / melting the existing components
imho ..
i have to really think about it before attempting to add memory to my universal
BGA replacement
BGA replacement is not something you can do at home with a heat gun. BGA replacement has to be done on a high end BGA rework station. The 3 stations we have at work cost around $60,000.00 USD each. The PCB is heated gradually with infared heaters and a special nozzel which directs hot air is lowered over the part to be replaced. Once the solder reached the melting point, around 215 C, a vacumme nozzel comes down and removes the part. The PCB is then allowed to cool, the BGA pads on the PCB are cleaned and any old solder is removed. Next, new solder paste (SN63 63% tin and 37% lead)is stenciled on. This requires a stainless steel stencil with the same ball pattern as the BGA. The BGA is placed on the solder covered pads using the vacumme nozzel an mirrors that allow you to see the exact placement of the part. Heat is applied gradually until the solder melts.
To make a long story short, don't try this at home. You will destroy your phone. It takes very specialized equipment and a highly trained operator.
...and I guess the other consideration is apart from catastrophic failure, there might be more subtle problems that won't be fixable (moisture in device causing device to 'bubble', shorts, dry, intermittant joints...) or visible (without an xray, maybe JTAG).
I know when soldering 208pin QFP devices, they usually need a bit of tinkering and fiddling to get rid of the odd short/dry joint. But then I'm probably a bit rubbish. But the chances of a perfect hand soldered BGA device must be very slim, surely! But I might just be showing my ignorance/lack of ability!
But in my experience, I really wouldn't advise trying with a hot air gun. But I'd be genuinely interested to hear about any attempts.
Sorry to go on..!
heh heh..
i see that a lot of people were thinking/ wishing to solder the extra memory on their device..
I know about the difficulties iam an electrical engineer.
BGA solder machines (yup the bigones) are a lot like smd solder machines.
saw them at my University and some congresses
but smd and and BGA is doable IF!! it is not to complex (layout number of components. imho offcourse ..
so guess that the question if I should expand my memory on my lovely univers is ..
NO..
ahh damn!!
Related
Well my brother used to have this excalibur and he was pretty rough with the fone.. now the usb port is kind of loose...like if i jiggle it out around in there i can get it to connect to the pc but id rather have it be tight..is there a way i can tighten it..maybe by adding more solder to the board? im experienced in soldering
Being that I haven't looked inside the dash, I'm not sure if that would solve anything. You could always try anchoring the connector on the board using some JB Weld, or some other type of epoxy. (I had to repair a wizard at one time, but I think I used some clear electrical grade RTV, it held up for the guy a few more months until the whole unit up and died!)
Oh that sucks, i had the same problem but lucky i just returned mine and got another on with the warranty.
I have done repairs on the usb ports before, usually the solder joint is cold and is easily repaired. If you do break the port they are available, I just ordered a few- they run about $2-3
I would not recommend it to anyone that hasnt used a fine tip iron to do this type of work though. You slip up and bridge a joint and you have some major problems!
yeah i think i will be able to pull that off...im not that bad at soldering and since a new one is only 2-3 bucks its worth a try
the ones I use are DigiKey #670-1809-1-ND
As you may have guessed after replacing the LCD, I have the dreaded back light issue.
My new lcd works, minus the backlight..though it flickers sometimes.
Found out it may be one of three the possible problems, popular being the 220 coil.
Now, I'm ok at basic soldering, but this is smd stuff, to delicate and small, plus I don't have that level of equipment.
I firstly need someone who has an abundance of mobile phone parts to hack a working 220 coil, eg. old iphone
secondly, I need someone in the west midlands, uk who can solder the coil for me. (prefebly the same guy with part)
There's a pint or 2 in it for ya
or somewhere I can go to get the repair done, reliable and cost effective.
Thanks
Harj
no one? lol
oh well, can't believe no one can help..lol
Deleted, lack of help, already achieved.
General though I forgot to add if that project could be real, it would teach Samsung and att a great lesson and someone would sell these parts and make money out of them.
Sounds like it's more trouble than it's worth.
It's not like a car where you can unscrew a few screws and exchange the part for a new one. This device has thousands of microscopic soldered components, so unless you have very advanced technology, you are not going to replace core components.
I see something like this happening for laptops first.. and the reason they don't do it for them now (with very few exceptions) is because most everything is integrated into the mainboard.
Have you ever tried to solder an smd resistor onto a pcb with just your basic general use soldering iron? It's damn near impossible without putting too much heat on the resistor or soldering the pad next to it also.
Everything is so tiny and cramped in laptops, imagine how much more tight things get in a cell phone. There was one (or maybe a couple) mfgrs that are doing plug and play build a phone. Think hi tec Legos but in general. I gonna guess that the phone would have to be designed for this from the ground up.
Good thought.. but probably a few years ahead of its time.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using XDA Free mobile app
xlr8shun said:
I see something like this happening for laptops first.. and the reason they don't do it for them now (with very few exceptions) is because most everything is integrated into the mainboard.
Have you ever tried to solder an smd resistor onto a pcb with just your basic general use soldering iron? It's damn near impossible without putting too much heat on the resistor or soldering the pad next to it also.
Everything is so tiny and cramped in laptops, imagine how much more tight things get in a cell phone. There was one (or maybe a couple) mfgrs that are doing plug and play build a phone. Think hi tec Legos but in general. I gonna guess that the phone would have to be designed for this from the ground up.
Good thought.. but probably a few years ahead of its time.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your insight. I was asking because I have done a lot of reverse engineering and a little 3D printing. I have seen couple of project Ara videos and it doesn't seem impossible.
I have a note 3 that I use for testing. I will play around with it and some other components. If I had any luck to start with, it would be a mini step forward
At best what you might find is some internal only interface like jtag or something that you can modify what's loaded on the eeprom and spi flash. Really big if on that.
Hi guys i was replacing the screen on asus zenfone 2 after cracking it and while doing so i ripped of the port on motherboard to which the antenna connects like with roots . And right now i cant use my sim cards because no antenna)))
Any thoughts how can i fix it? or where can i buy new motherboard? Maybe asus service center can fix it for money? i mean phone is ideal but no antennat for now maybe i can solder it? Will it do the trick?
Did you ripped the connector in the upper (big) or lower (small) board?
Alexuzb1 said:
Hi guys i was replacing the screen on asus zenfone 2 after cracking it and while doing so i ripped of the port on motherboard to which the antenna connects like with roots . And right now i cant use my sim cards because no antenna)))
Any thoughts how can i fix it? or where can i buy new motherboard? Maybe asus service center can fix it for money? i mean phone is ideal but no antennat for now maybe i can solder it? Will it do the trick?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This can be sent to ASUS for out-of-warranty service. Unfortunately we are unable to provide an estimate until the phone is received and evaluated. If you would like to send in for service please feel free to contact me direct at [email protected]. Please include a link to this post when responding.
Sincerely,
Frank
ASUS_USA
Alexuzb1 said:
Hi guys i was replacing the screen on asus zenfone 2 after cracking it and while doing so i ripped of the port on motherboard to which the antenna connects like with roots . And right now i cant use my sim cards because no antenna)))
Any thoughts how can i fix it? or where can i buy new motherboard? Maybe asus service center can fix it for money? i mean phone is ideal but no antennat for now maybe i can solder it? Will it do the trick?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dear alex i have the same problem as yours and i know the fix, i manage to peel off the surface of the motherboard; using a thin razor blade, where the center pad is missing, the rest of it on the sides is ground, i manage to trace the track to a resistor inside of the shielding can, and i make jumper to the antenna cable and voila the signal is showing again and all working fine, if you can provide the photo of the board (remove the shielding) i can draw you the line to make the cable jumper...
Asus_USA said:
This can be sent to ASUS for out-of-warranty service. Unfortunately we are unable to provide an estimate until the phone is received and evaluated. If you would like to send in for service please feel free to contact me direct at [email protected]. Please include a link to this post when responding.
Sincerely,
Frank
ASUS_USA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is it alright if i email you, i happened to do the same while replacing my screen ?
touji said:
dear alex i have the same problem as yours and i know the fix, i manage to peel off the surface of the motherboard; using a thin razor blade, where the center pad is missing, the rest of it on the sides is ground, i manage to trace the track to a resistor inside of the shielding can, and i make jumper to the antenna cable and voila the signal is showing again and all working fine, if you can provide the photo of the board (remove the shielding) i can draw you the line to make the cable jumper...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a similar problem too and will appreciate if you could guide me on how to rather solder it inside the shielding can. I soldered it back to the original place but it is not firm and does not seem to have a solid base. I am yet to replace the screen which is damaged as a result of the phone falling off the roof of my car and being ran over by cars. I have attached a couple of pix for you to select from. Thanks.
www[dot]myfixguide[dot]com/manual/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Asus-ZenFone-2-Teardown-23[dot]jpg
the green area is encharge of 4g, if you were an EE or CE, you might know what you are doing
touji said:
dear alex i have the same problem as yours and i know the fix, i manage to peel off the surface of the motherboard; using a thin razor blade, where the center pad is missing, the rest of it on the sides is ground, i manage to trace the track to a resistor inside of the shielding can, and i make jumper to the antenna cable and voila the signal is showing again and all working fine, if you can provide the photo of the board (remove the shielding) i can draw you the line to make the cable jumper...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Touji, Thanks for the information.
I have the exact same problem (I even managed to damage connectors on both ends...).
Could you please describe more precisely what has to be done to solder the wire at the right places ?
Thanks,
Gaston
huotg01 said:
Touji, Thanks for the information.
I have the exact same problem (I even managed to damage connectors on both ends...).
Could you please describe more precisely what has to be done to solder the wire at the right places ?
Thanks,
Gaston
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, i have the same problem, how did you solved it?
Here there are the images of the connector and the motherboard.
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And here there are the links of bigger size of the images:
mobo1: s10.postimg.org/3v1v017yh/image.jpg
mobo2: s29.postimg.org/oukochbk7/image.jpg
Thank you so much.
cindybabe said:
I have a similar problem too and will appreciate if you could guide me on how to rather solder it inside the shielding can. I soldered it back to the original place but it is not firm and does not seem to have a solid base. I am yet to replace the screen which is damaged as a result of the phone falling off the roof of my car and being ran over by cars. I have attached a couple of pix for you to select from. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, how did you solved it?
i know that the center pad is already ripped off and nothing is left but if you see carefully under a magnifying glass, there is a small yellow dot that is the line under the center pad, use multitester to trace it to some resistor in area i have marked in red, so sorry i'm no longer in posession of this board because i have return it to my customer, and i did not make note of which resistor to jumper...
just try it yourself and post your results here, as for the antenna i cut of the connector and made a plain jumper to the ground and the other one to a resistor....
sorry for my late reply ...
touji said:
i know that the center pad is already ripped off and nothing is left but if you see carefully under a magnifying glass, there is a small yellow dot that is the line under the center pad, use multitester to trace it to some resistor in area i have marked in red, so sorry i'm no longer in posession of this board because i have return it to my customer, and i did not make note of which resistor to jumper...
just try it yourself and post your results here, as for the antenna i cut of the connector and made a plain jumper to the ground and the other one to a resistor....
sorry for my late reply ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not understand very well , say the yellow dot that indicated by the red arrow ? the connector was previously welded where there is a red circle .
I have to cut the metal connector and leave only the black wire antenna ? Thank you so much for the reply don't worry for the late response
i only mark an area not a specific point because i don't remember the line from center pad is connected to,
antenna connector welded to board if peeled off, the surrounding is connected to ground, the missing center pad you have to see using 10x magnifying glass and you can see there is a small dot still exist, you try using multitester then to find where is that dot ends, in the area i have marked, after you find it, cut off the antenna cable at the connector, and solder the outer cable to ground and the center to the part where you have found using mulltitester..
Alagi said:
I did not understand very well , say the yellow dot that indicated by the red arrow ? the connector was previously welded where there is a red circle .
I have to cut the metal connector and leave only the black wire antenna ? Thank you so much for the reply don't worry for the late response
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alagi,
In your photo of mother board, you use Red Arrow point a solder pad. Is the point to connected to Antenna center pad. Appreciated your reply.
Also appreciate expert can post a photo here to show found point for Antenna center point.
Thanks
connector's digitizer has broken,
can you help me the solution, please ??? i have a zenfone 2 with broken connector's cable display, where i must jumper the cable display if the connector's has broken on motherboard ??? thanks a lot.
I have same issue with antenna pad on mainboard ripped off.
And I found the soldering point is actually not as the previous pic posted above.
The actual center pad connected with the antenna goes to a cap as I pointed with yellow arrow, the circuit follows by my blue lines on the pic.
Been Tested. Give a try on yours, guys.
You guys are awesome!
Made an account just to say that you are all amazing. With the info on the thread I was able to fix my phone and saved a lot of money! Its a lot easier than I thought it would be, and I'm not the greatest solderer.
Take your time scraping the traces away, and put a dab of glue on the joints to firm them up. Don't rush and take your time people!
I had a picture to post as well but xda doesn't let accounts with less than ten posts can not have outstide links sry
unbentcrayfish said:
Made an account just to say that you are all amazing. With the info on the thread I was able to fix my phone and saved a lot of money! Its a lot easier than I thought it would be, and I'm not the greatest solderer.
Take your time scraping the traces away, and put a dab of glue on the joints to firm them up. Don't rush and take your time people!
I had a picture to post as well but xda doesn't let accounts with less than ten posts can not have outstide links sry
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi crayfish, is there any way you could send me on that photo, or if you've made 10 posts now post it for everyone? I did the same thing and after two or three failed attempts I finally fixed my screen just to find out the antenna was definitely not working so I'm tempted to just cut my losses but if you managed it I might give it a go. Thanks!
Third time's the charm
chorgan said:
Hi crayfish, is there any way you could send me on that photo, or if you've made 10 posts now post it for everyone? I did the same thing and after two or three failed attempts I finally fixed my screen just to find out the antenna was definitely not working so I'm tempted to just cut my losses but if you managed it I might give it a go. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After typing out a mutliparagraph response and loosing it, I had to switch to my computer. I'll try to condense what I had previously typed out, I don't feel like doing all that again.
BUT after several weeks of my antenna fix I can tell you it is not perfect, least my fix isn't. Granted half reception (none inside buildings or in certain places) is better than none. But it doesn't seem to be a perfect fix. I have issues uploading anything like texts, images, etc. Downloading is unaffected. My phone is my only source of internet so I really notice this. My speed test results are looking like this: (mb/s) Down: high=29.59 Low=4.4 Up: high=2.48 low=0.13 Ping doesn't seem effected. My upload speeds used to be higher than my download... Before I even did the trace scraping fix, I emailed Asus about purchasing a Zenfone 2 motherboard from them (none on ebay/online) and they won't sell them to regular people. Super bummer, but its okay I ended up buying a new Zenfone2 (the zoom and lazer aren't worth it) it should be here today.
Got a little off topic there, but we're good. As for the fix itself?
I used a thumb tack for the scraping action, take your time and don't dig deeper than the trace! (pic below for the CORRECT trace) As for the antenna wire, Cut the end that has the broken off port still stuck in it and strip that sucker. Split the outer metal wires into two stands. Use your teeth or a lighter to expose the signal wire. Tin your fresh wires (less is more, its small pads and wires!) and turn your attention to the ground pads. They are the large pads left where the plug was sitting. At this point your trace should be visible, your antenna should be tinned, and your fingers crossed! I had forgotten to tin the trace and pads but It worked out because I tinned the wires with a tad too much solder so it was okay. But don't be like me, tin your pads and trace.
Start with the ground wires first being sure to check the length of your wires before hand, and get them on there! Once they are secured move on to the signal wire. I found this to be hard, it is by far the smallest thing I have ever worked on. Have good lighting, steady clam hands, and a magnifying glass! You don't want to break anything else here, even if you don't fix the antenna your Zenfone is a great media device! When you finally have that signal wire on, take a smoke break you need it! Next, turn on that phone and test the connection. If everything is peachy put a dab of glue on your fresh solder joints for protection. When putting the phone back together be careful not to pitch or snag any wires. Also, I cut the corner off the copper heat sink so that I would sit flush with the new fix.
Sooo ya. That's about it folks!
Good luck chorgan and may the force be with you.
I'll see any replies to this comment, so ask away if anyone has questions. I'm no expert, but I'm glad to help!
Almost forgot: https:// imgur.com/a/xC9Rc (I had to put spacing in to submit the comment, still under ten)
chorgan said:
Hi crayfish, is there any way you could send me on that photo, or if you've made 10 posts now post it for everyone? I did the same thing and after two or three failed attempts I finally fixed my screen just to find out the antenna was definitely not working so I'm tempted to just cut my losses but if you managed it I might give it a go. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update: I just had a look inside and was planning to solder it tomorrow so I taped everything down and while I was at it, made sure the connector was realigned with its old home on the motherboard. When I turned the phone back on, my 4G worked. So it's possible (though I wouldn't stretch to saying it's a good long term solution) to just tape the socket back on as long as you apply enough pressure that it won't move around in normal use. I'll keep you updated on how long this lasts because it could be a much easier fix for us that aren't too handy with a soldering iron
---------- Post added at 08:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:45 PM ----------
unbentcrayfish said:
After typing out a mutliparagraph response and loosing it, I had to switch to my computer. I'll try to condense what I had previously typed out, I don't feel like doing all that again.
BUT after several weeks of my antenna fix I can tell you it is not perfect, least my fix isn't. Granted half reception (none inside buildings or in certain places) is better than none. But it doesn't seem to be a perfect fix. I have issues uploading anything like texts, images, etc. Downloading is unaffected. My phone is my only source of internet so I really notice this. My speed test results are looking like this: (mb/s) Down: high=29.59 Low=4.4 Up: high=2.48 low=0.13 Ping doesn't seem effected. My upload speeds used to be higher than my download... Before I even did the trace scraping fix, I emailed Asus about purchasing a Zenfone 2 motherboard from them (none on ebay/online) and they won't sell them to regular people. Super bummer, but its okay I ended up buying a new Zenfone2 (the zoom and lazer aren't worth it) it should be here today.
Got a little off topic there, but we're good. As for the fix itself?
I used a thumb tack for the scraping action, take your time and don't dig deeper than the trace! (pic below for the CORRECT trace) As for the antenna wire, Cut the end that has the broken off port still stuck in it and strip that sucker. Split the outer metal wires into two stands. Use your teeth or a lighter to expose the signal wire. Tin your fresh wires (less is more, its small pads and wires!) and turn your attention to the ground pads. They are the large pads left where the plug was sitting. At this point your trace should be visible, your antenna should be tinned, and your fingers crossed! I had forgotten to tin the trace and pads but It worked out because I tinned the wires with a tad too much solder so it was okay. But don't be like me, tin your pads and trace.
Start with the ground wires first being sure to check the length of your wires before hand, and get them on there! Once they are secured move on to the signal wire. I found this to be hard, it is by far the smallest thing I have ever worked on. Have good lighting, steady clam hands, and a magnifying glass! You don't want to break anything else here, even if you don't fix the antenna your Zenfone is a great media device! When you finally have that signal wire on, take a smoke break you need it! Next, turn on that phone and test the connection. If everything is peachy put a dab of glue on your fresh solder joints for protection. When putting the phone back together be careful not to pitch or snag any wires. Also, I cut the corner off the copper heat sink so that I would sit flush with the new fix.
Sooo ya. That's about it folks!
Good luck chorgan and may the force be with you.
I'll see any replies to this comment, so ask away if anyone has questions. I'm no expert, but I'm glad to help!
Almost forgot: https:// imgur.com/a/xC9Rc (I had to put spacing in to submit the comment, still under ten)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just saw this after my post about the the tape method. Thanks very much for the reply, pity I (hopefully) won't end up using it.
I had actually misunderstood the connector, I had been thinking that the two pads for ground were the onl y two contacts, and so one must be ground and one the signal wire at the core. That would have made for some heartbreak when I turned on my "fixed" phone. Hopefully mine stays cooperative, if not it's time to bust out the iron... or just buy a portable hotspot and a blokia. Anyway, I hope your luck is better with the new ZenFone.
Ps, I think my 4G may be a bit slower? I've had one drop off off where I lost signal completely but I have a feeling it's intermittently dying but not for long enough for the phone to register the loss. I'll try a speed test soon
Hey,
So i got an Nexus 5X 16Gb, and like you know It's totally un efficient. I see that a russian Guy has changed his memory chip of an Nexus 5.
My idea is to Add an SD slot (but how and where) or change the eMMC chip.
Any idea for it ?
Sent from Nexus 5X using Tapatalk.
Pepe_The_Frog said:
Hey,
So i got an Nexus 5X 16Gb, and like you know It's totally un efficient. I see that a russian Guy has changed his memory chip of an Nexus 5.
My idea is to Add an SD slot (but how and where) or change the eMMC chip.
Any idea for it ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you consider a USB C OTG flash reader/writer like meenova?
http://www.meenova.com/st/p/dash_g3c.html
sfhub said:
Have you consider a USB C OTG flash reader/writer like meenova?
http://www.meenova.com/st/p/dash_g3c.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, but my idea is not an occasional adaptater but a real memory extend like this thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/nexus-5-64gb-t3350533
I'm confused with 2 ideas :
-Add an SDCard slot (can be cool)
-Extend memory to 64 or 128gb (my advice SDCard still better)
On the iFixit Teardown guide, it says it's a Toshiba THGBMFG7C2LBAIL (16gb variant) chip.
And in the Toshiba catalog, like u can see downside, all chips seems to be the same type (P-WFBGA153).
The problem is the size of the chip. Upgrade can be easily done to 32GB (N5X Variant), or to 64 and 128 gb, up to 0,4mm difference.
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Searched a bit on the web and finded some chips:
64GB Variant:
https://www.rutronik24.com/product/toshiba/thgbmhg9c4lbair/7782539.html
http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/THGBMHG9C4LBAIR-VFBGA-153-eMMC5-1-64GB-Flash-Memory/32653487163.html
128GB Variant:
http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/THGBMHT0C8LBAIG-TFBGA-153-eMMC5-1-128GB-Flash-Memory/32653124263.html
http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?fsb=y&IndexArea=product_en&CatId=&SearchText=THGBMHT0C8LBAIG (Ask seller)
The only problem i see is like i said above, the chip size grew up to 0,4mm, so is it possible to do it without get an curved nexus?
Any ideas where and how is possible to put an SD Reader?
Pepe_The_Frog said:
Sure, but my idea is not an occasional adaptater but a real memory extend like this thread : http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/help/nexus-5-64gb-t3350533
I'm confused with 2 ideas :
-Add an SDCard slot (can be cool)
-Extend memory to 64 or 128gb (my advice SDCard still better)
...
The only problem i see is like i said above, the chip size grew up to 0,4mm, so is it possible to do it without get an curved nexus?
Any ideas where and how is possible to put an SD Reader?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replacing the emmc chip is doable (but you still need to deal with software side, repartitioning and making sure not to take factory updates that might overwrite your changes), but making it possible to use an SD reader is IMO not practical in this form factor which is why I suggested a small card reader.
If you were thinking to replace the EMMC chip with a reader, they are not interchangeable technology. You are going to need to find some other place to attach the reader. Even if you do that, the reader won't function any different than an external reader. You'd need to change the bootloader to boot off of it and probably various Android features wouldn't work
Unless you want to drill into the bezel, probably cracking it in the process, the only place it could possibly fit is if you got rid of the SIM card slot. Then look for some spare USB leads on the motherboard or attach to USB C port.
The amount of effort you are going to put into this, might as well just buy a phone with more memory, but if you find it fun, go for it.
sfhub said:
Replacing the emmc chip is doable (but you still need to deal with software side, repartitioning and making sure not to take factory updates that might overwrite your changes), but making it possible to use an SD reader is IMO not practical in this form factor which is why I suggested a small card reader.
If you were thinking to replace the EMMC chip with a reader, they are not interchangeable technology. You are going to need to find some other place to attach the reader. Even if you do that, the reader won't function any different than an external reader. You'd need to change the bootloader to boot off of it and probably various Android features wouldn't work
Unless you want to drill into the bezel, probably cracking it in the process, the only place it could possibly fit is if you got rid of the SIM card slot. Then look for some spare USB leads on the motherboard or attach to USB C port.
The amount of effort you are going to put into this, might as well just buy a phone with more memory, but if you find it fun, go for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The combo SD Reader + new memory chip could be good , but according to hardware limitations, i prefer replace my memory chip by a new one.
I'll try to dismount my 5X and see if the 0,4mm are so problematic that i expected.
For the software part, i'll do more researches about it, but the guide for the Nexus5 seems to be good.
Pepe_The_Frog said:
The combo SD Reader + new memory chip could be good , but according to hardware limitations, i prefer replace my memory chip by a new one.
I'll try to dismount my 5X and see if the 0,4mm are so problematic that i expected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm curious, do you have experience with BGA reball/reflow?
---------- Post added at 11:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------
sfhub said:
If you were thinking to replace the EMMC chip with a reader, they are not interchangeable technology. You are going to need to find some other place to attach the reader.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you should figure out what the memory controller used on this device is. Sometimes it is possible to reconfigure it to use sd. If so, you can probably figure out which BGA pad location on motherboard correspond to the ones you need and try and rig something to a micro-sd holder (or even to the micro-sd card directly.
Personally I would only try this stuff on a broken phone as the chance for error is high.
sfhub said:
I'm curious, do you have experience with BGA reball/reflow?
---------- Post added at 11:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------
So you should figure out what the memory controller used on this device is. Sometimes it is possible to reconfigure it to use sd. If so, you can probably figure out which BGA pad location on motherboard correspond to the ones you need and try and rig something to a micro-sd holder (or even to the micro-sd card directly.
Personally I would only try this stuff on a broken phone as the chance for error is high.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never heard about BGA method. After checked some YT vids, a hot air pistol seems to be good, right?
I don't have lot material ( i'm 16, basic soldering iron and some other stuff, replaced LCD, Jack connector etc. without problems, modded 7yo laptop etc. ) so any every idea is welcome
Pepe_The_Frog said:
Never heard about BGA method. After checked some YT vids, a hot air pistol seems to be good, right?
I don't have lot material ( i'm 16, basic soldering iron and some other stuff, replaced LCD, Jack connector etc. without problems, modded 7yo laptop etc. ) so any every idea is welcome
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you had access to Infrared BGA rework station that would be better, but you can do it with hot air gun, but you need one with tight control of temperature.
The solder on the BGA pads will "flow"/melt at a specific temperature range. If you go much beyond that temperature, you can damage the chip or surrounding components. Below that temperature, nothing will happen.
Most people will use temperature probes to monitor the reflow process.
Just search for xbox reflow and I'm sure you will get lots of instruction.
The proper equipment is quite pricey, but you can get by with more basic equipment for some of the steps.
You will need hot air or IR to reflow the solder between the BGA component and the pads on the board. That can't be done with solder iron as the pads are underneath the chip.
I wish you luck on the micro soldering , its not as easy as you might think
carm01 said:
I wish you luck on the micro soldering , its not as easy as you might think
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Soldering a BGA component with iron is IMO impossible, but reflow isn't that bad if you have the equipment and/or experience. The component gets "sucked" into place once the proper temperature for reflow is reached.
The solder is naturally adverse to the PCB material and will attract to the metal pads on the board and BGA component. Just add generous flux and everything will "flow" into place. Can skip a a couple of steps if you can get pre-balled emmc component.
I wouldn't do this as my first project but it is doable. Best to practice on broken xbox's first.
sfhub said:
If you had access to Infrared BGA rework station that would be better, but you can do it with hot air gun, but you need one with tight control of temperature.
The solder on the BGA pads will "flow"/melt at a specific temperature range. If you go much beyond that temperature, you can damage the chip or surrounding components. Below that temperature, nothing will happen.
Most people will use temperature probes to monitor the reflow process.
Just search for xbox reflow and I'm sure you will get lots of instruction.
The proper equipment is quite pricey, but you can get by with more basic equipment for some of the steps.
You will need hot air or IR to reflow the solder between the BGA component and the pads on the board. That can't be done with solder iron as the pads are underneath the chip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you think about these ones?
https://www.amazon.fr/ECO-WORTHY-station-reprise-Titulaire-Conseils/dp/B014UCG1HO/
https://www.amazon.fr/stations-souder-x2103-pistolet-Desolder/dp/B0171F7HAC/
https://www.amazon.fr/InfoCoste-BAKU-878L-Station-soudage-chaud/dp/B00MA01HXW/
carm01 said:
I wish you luck on the micro soldering , its not as easy as you might think
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would like to make it my job, i'll try be careful with my 5X
sfhub said:
Soldering a BGA component with iron is IMO impossible, but reflow isn't that bad if you have the equipment and/or experience. The component gets "sucked" into place once the proper temperature for reflow is reached.
The solder is naturally adverse to the PCB material and will attract to the metal pads on the board and BGA component. Just add generous flux and everything will "flow" into place. Can skip a a couple of steps if you can get pre-balled emmc component.
I wouldn't do this as my first project but it is doable. Best to practice on broken xbox's first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know I use to work at the former Cincinnati microwave, so i have done plenty of quad flat packs, the hot air machine, microscopes; and with the correct equipment it is easy as gravy, also the lithography has got ungodly tiny since the 90s as well. I had plenty of times where i heated up a double sided board and one of the common things to do was to gently tap near the chip to see if it was loose, and it would just move, well all the components on the underside fell off LOL
That's why i am saying good luck with a soldering iron you are in for a challenge if not impossible
Pepe_The_Frog said:
What do you think about these ones?
https://www.amazon.fr/ECO-WORTHY-station-reprise-Titulaire-Conseils/dp/B014UCG1HO/
https://www.amazon.fr/stations-souder-x2103-pistolet-Desolder/dp/B0171F7HAC/
https://www.amazon.fr/InfoCoste-BAKU-878L-Station-soudage-chaud/dp/B00MA01HXW/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have experience with them. I think with the less expensive models the soldering irons either have trouble maintaining temperature when you have large areas to desolder or the hot air cannot provide enough heat to account for the board acting has a heat sink.
This is what a more professional rework station looks like
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Achi-IR-Pro-SC-BGA-Rework-Station-with-DVD-training-set-/251525538916
In the US folks don't like to pay for full rework stations so they will usually try something like Aoyue 968.
It is also important to know whether you are using lead-free or lead solder. The US (and I think all of EU) banned lead solder so most of the time we are working with lead-free solder. Lead solder melts/flows starting at 183C, maybe up to 215C. lead-free solder will need to get up to 240C maybe up to 250C.
However you have an entire board acting as heat sink, so it is difficult to just heat one spot to the proper temperature. The way people make it easier is to pre-heat the entire board to something like 200C then use the hot air gun to heat the BGA area another 40-50C to get it to reflow.
I've seen people try pre-heating their boards using a griddle used for cooking and a temperature probe, but that is too ghetto for me.
I think with a small board like on nexus 5x (vs larger board on xbox) you can get away with just using hot air on the small area as the board is not sucking away as much of the heat but if you can pre-heat that would be best because it'll be easier and less chance of damaging components on the sides of the memory chip.
I really suggest you practice on a trash motherboard your BGA reflow skills prior to working on your phone though. Alternatively get someone who has done this stuff before to help you out.
Why would you go through all that trouble? Either sell your 16gb phone and buy a 32gb one, or one with built in uSD expansion, or get wireless memory stick http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZCFYFAO
Sent from my Nexus 5X using XDA-Developers mobile app
colorado_al said:
Why would you go through all that trouble? Either sell your 16gb phone and buy a 32gb one, or one with built in uSD expansion, or get wireless memory stick http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZCFYFAO
Sent from my Nexus 5X using XDA-Developers mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Buyed at 315€, now it cost 235€
Sent from Nexus 5X using Tapatalk.