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Found - MTCD Schematic. A most valuable find on russian android car audio forum and attached here.
[Android Car Audio]
The schematic corresponds to a GS Mainboard I have as a spare part. It varies to my JY board in terms of USB operation, with this board OTG is provided for.
This is ridiculously helpful, regardless of what MTCD manufacturer you have. I've had to replace MOSFET's and internally shorted caps in my KGL before, and having a general reference like this would have made the process so much quicker. Cheers!
MbTaNk16 said:
This is ridiculously helpful, regardless of what MTCD manufacturer you have. I've had to replace MOSFET's and internally shorted caps in my KGL before, and having a general reference like this would have made the process so much quicker. Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed! I was astounded to find this. Unfortunately I still wasnt able to get my PX5 board to go into maskrom for OTG flashing, but is probably something I am not doing right. Schematic is absolutely valid and is spot on for MTCD GS.
18/07 - Was able to put PX5 into OTG [LOADER] mode after modifying board.
Thanks @cupi1234
marchnz said:
Anyone with a 4pda account - can you please try and download and attach here - http://4pda.ru/forum/dl/post/9567228/MTCD++Witson-A510-2016-04-28+V01.pdf
[MTCD Witson-A510-2016-04-28+V01.pdf - 4PDA]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
witson
Hi, does somebody knows the wiring of the PB76FSAP-S, an MTCD from Ownice (C500). I am trying to connect a OTS020 tpms to port F. The OTS020 has 4 wires, +, gnd, data and something else. I want to know how the unit supplies power and wich pins are used for data.
Thanks.
747 Driver said:
Hi, does somebody knows the wiring of the PB76FSAP-S, an MTCD from Ownice (C500). I am trying to connect a OTS020 tpms to port F. The OTS020 has 4 wires, +, gnd, data and something else. I want to know how the unit supplies power and wich pins are used for data.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Ownice C500 is not an MTCD unit. Ownice dont make MTCD units, their units are of an entirely different design with totally incompatible software.
Source for Raw Audio Output?
Looking at this schematic on page 10, it appears that the section labeled 'ARM' would be the interface connector from the Android board to the MCU Board.
Following @dazza007 's and @7floor 's posts below, it looks like the raw audio output from the Android Board is available at pins 12 and 13. Without a schematic of the Android Board I can't be sure, but I assume that these should trace back to pins 12 and 13 from the WM8731 Audio Codec chip.
If I'm correct and we could harness these raw line level audio outputs it could give the people that were looking for a clean feed for DSP's and the like.
Full disclosure, I do not have one of these units yet but am looking at a GCS Apex branded unit that appears to be a MTCD KLD model per the merchant website pictures. http://www.subispeed.com/2013-crosstrek/interior/audio-stereo-upgrades/gcs-apex-android-v2-head-unit-w-gps-2013-2016-forester-crosstrek#.WgRiFFuPLIU
dazz007
https://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/mtcb-hardware-development/mtc-sound-controlling-bd37xxx-sound-t3234660
7floor
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=63520630
typos1 said:
The Ownice C500 is not an MTCD unit. Ownice dont make MTCD units, their units are of an entirely different design with totally incompatible software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please enlighten me. It says MTCD in the settings, I have a GS v 2.56 running.
What type of unit is it? According Xtrons it is a PB-76FSFAP-S. What type is it (MCT/B/C/D/E?)
Thanks
747 Driver said:
Please enlighten me. It says MTCD in the settings, I have a GS v 2.56 running.
What type of unit is it? According Xtrons it is a PB-76FSFAP-S. What type is it (MCT/B/C/D/E?)
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it says "MTCD GS" in the MCU field then you have a GS MCD unit.
Xtrons are simply resellers - they buy units from various manufacturers and then give them made up model numbers.
Ownice are an entirely different company that make entirley different units.
i have a GS PX5 Android 6.0 ( now migrated to Oreo) unit, i'd like to know if this board have USB OTG port.
I need to connect a USB/SPDIF Converter , the Matrix X-SPDIF2, and it is Android 8 certified for USB OTG port.
PX5 MX2 Unit No RESET
Hey guys,
I'm half offtopic here, but my thing has to do with the schematics / HW mod (can't open topics due to low post count..)
Just recently bought a replacement for my Opel Astra J '12 and ..
It's a MX PX5 4GB Oreo sold by Witson.
This HU is very specific, because it comes in two parts.
1. Silverbox with the MCU and sockets + 2. Display board with SD slot
My point writing here is, that it doesn't have a reset hole - Oh well yea it has, but behind it there's nothing to push
Desperate as I am, I wanna have a reset button to enter recovery and .. well - if it gets stuck, to recover.
As the silverbox will be behind the dash, my only option would be the display board, where I found two connectors having a PIN def for RST_KEY and now I need instructions how to do the cabling, as I'm not sure how to achieve the reset function.
RST_KEY + GND ?
OTG? Found a little connecter not having a corresponding plug (white 8PIN in IMG_2613)
-> Pictures
abload.de/gallery.php?key=sNOKaV7R
Would be cool if you guys help me out
BR X
Hey Xorit,
I guess you've got the v5754 unit.
The reset line won't help you for recovery, I tried the same and reset is only a hard reset.
I've soldered a cable to key1, gnd and led8v on the display part (under the back cover), put a plug on the end and placed it in the glove department.
I then made a small pcb with a tactile switch connecting key1 - gnd and a 12v led on led8v and gnd, with this you'll be able to enter recovery by holding the button until the led flashes 3 times and then stays on,
Releasing it for a second and the keep on pressing, releasing, pressing for a couple of times.
I'm not sure if you're able to flash any custom rom because the sd slot on these units is a USB converted and not a gps slot.
Btw. I flashed mine with a custom rom by extracting the board, placing it in a xtrons model and then puting it back.
Thanks for that super helpful post!
Just ordered the needed components
Yep, indeed the V5754.
Dunno why they didnt wire any of those support keys.
Thanks mate!
bunnymc said:
Hey Xorit,
I guess you've got the v5754 unit.
The reset line won't help you for recovery, I tried the same and reset is only a hard reset.
I've soldered a cable to key1, gnd and led8v on the display part (under the back cover), put a plug on the end and placed it in the glove department.
I then made a small pcb with a tactile switch connecting key1 - gnd and a 12v led on led8v and gnd, with this you'll be able to enter recovery by holding the button until the led flashes 3 times and then stays on,
Releasing it for a second and the keep on pressing, releasing, pressing for a couple of times.
I'm not sure if you're able to flash any custom rom because the sd slot on these units is a USB converted and not a gps slot.
Btw. I flashed mine with a custom rom by extracting the board, placing it in a xtrons model and then puting it back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
got it working with ur directions!
the button mutes on single press, so it might be possible that the mute button on the steering wheel will do the same..would be weird tho.
might be helpfull for those who have no reset button either!
that new button selects options on single press in recovery and activates on long press, just like the normal reset hole.
->
on the display board you have two flat flexi cable connectors (not in use), where there are pin outs for usb + led + 2 keys.
thanks again!
Hey i have one Question. It says u can Solder it directly to the SOM or with a Flexible flat Cable. I have on my Unit the SOM and this is connectet to the Bigger Board. On this Bigger board i have 2 Flat Flex Connectors. Can i use them for this method?! And if yes wich one is the Right flat connector and where to get a flexible Band cable!? Would help me much if someone helps me because i have done the USB OTG Cable mod and now i have no Recovery and no USB anymore so i can not flash anything. I tried flashing in Android an MCU update but it does not do. Downloaded all to the units internal storage.
Greetz Tom
Nice I'm glad that it did the trick for you
The mute button from your steering wheel won't work because it's connected via canbus (same as cd3/4/600 button panel).
The mute from the soldered button is just a setting in the firmware (you could change it with the steering wheel button assignment settings to whatever you want.
I also added 2 more tactile switches to the key1 line with different resistors (resistor ladder) to be able to use them as hardware buttons (e.g. Vol up/down and power) but haven't had the chance to test it yet.
Xorit said:
got it working with ur directions!
the button mutes on single press, so it might be possible that the mute button on the steering wheel will do the same..would be weird tho.
might be helpfull for those who have no reset button either!
that new button selects options on single press in recovery and activates on long press, just like the normal reset hole.
->
on the display board you have two flat flexi cable connectors (not in use), where there are pin outs for usb + led + 2 keys.
thanks again!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still in the wrong forum !!
typos1 said:
Still in the wrong forum !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I reported - post gone.
I recently picked up a new (for us) radio with built-in GPS and DVD/CD (and other extras). The model (LC1X) has three rectangular sockets on back... one that came with a wiring cable for a Nisson, a rectangular one (20 pin), containing audio in L and R, Video in and out, and a couple of others. There is supposed to be a cable for a subwoofer, but it's not on that connector (no labeled sub cable). There are a couple of cables coming out of the back of the radio - one for antenna, the other goes to an 8 pin socket - three pins used, and it looks like they're a ground with two shielded wires. (I haven't scoped them yet to see if there is audio present.)
I have a decent (not massive) subwoofer I'd like to hook to it, but no luck on figuring out what the pinout is for the 20 pin socket. According to what I've found (not much), the radio is supposed to have a subwoofer connection. I found a manual for the I-9/I-10 OS/firmware, but only generic stuff beyond that.
Does anyone have any information that might help? I know it's an old radio, but it's much better than what we had before. I bought the thing from a surplus electronics dealer, but there was no manual for it. I was able to figure out and get it going, except for subwoofer.
Also, is there some way to get Regedit into the radio, so I can make adjustments? I'm not so interested in modding the system, just making a few changes now and then.
Thanks!
Bob
BTW - The two pictures I uploaded - one shows the layout of the back of the radio, the other was the labels on the box. I just haven't had any luck doing searches with the labels.
Hi everyone,
I have ordered almost 2 years ago a Dasaita 9" Android 10 Head Unit (4G 64G Octa Core) for my 2009 Forester. Until yesterday the device worked fine, I really loved and enjoyed it, I was really impressed with it. The only thing I change I was the launcher and mainly used it for Google Maps, Spotify and Torque Pro.
Yesterday on my way to my mate’s, 50km on the way, the head unit just stopped working, I was just using google maps and listening some tunes on Spotify. (note: the screen was hot to the touch).
Since then the screen is totally black and the only thing that lights up when I turn on the lights are the side buttons. I tried to reset, the lights are flashing then nothing. No matter what the screen remains dead. Also I noticed my OBD2 adapter doesn’t connect automatically to the HU as it used to and I can’t connect by Bluetooth with my phone neither.
All this brings me to think that the HU is dead ????
I saw few videos and threads online with people having more or less the same issue… anyone got a solution or faced the same problem ?
Thank you for the help
What steps have been taken to investigate
MrPoopyButtOle said:
Hi everyone,
I have ordered almost 2 years ago a Dasaita 9" Android 10 Head Unit (4G 64G Octa Core) for my 2009 Forester. Until yesterday the device worked fine, I really loved and enjoyed it, I was really impressed with it. The only thing I change I was the launcher and mainly used it for Google Maps, Spotify and Torque Pro.
Yesterday on my way to my mate’s, 50km on the way, the head unit just stopped working, I was just using google maps and listening some tunes on Spotify. (note: the screen was hot to the touch).
Since then the screen is totally black and the only thing that lights up when I turn on the lights are the side buttons. I tried to reset, the lights are flashing then nothing. No matter what the screen remains dead. Also I noticed my OBD2 adapter doesn’t connect automatically to the HU as it used to and I can’t connect by Bluetooth with my phone neither.
All this brings me to think that the HU is dead ????
I saw few videos and threads online with people having more or less the same issue… anyone got a solution or faced the same problem ?
Thank you for the help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd pull the unit and check you didn't just lose you 12v or ground cable.
gottahavit said:
I'd pull the unit and check you didn't just lose you 12v or ground cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your answers.
So I have pulled the unit out and checked with the multimeter, I’ve got a good ground and I read 12V (from the harness adapter). These seems fine right ?!
I assume you've tried the reset button?
Does the Daisata have a detachable screen? On my joying I'd check the ribbon cable.
Next I'd attach the 12v and ground to an external source(got a battery charger around?)
If that all fails then I guess try to talk to the Seller.
gottahavit said:
I assume you've tried the reset button?
Does the Daisata have a detachable screen? On my joying I'd check the ribbon cable.
Next I'd attach the 12v and ground to an external source(got a battery charger around?)
If that all fails then I guess try to talk to the Seller.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen isn’t detachable.
I got in touch with the seller and that’s his reply:
“1. Do you try to power off the device to check?
2. If you have power off and it still doesn\'t help. Please remove the power cable and then wait 3 minutes to plug it again.
3. After plug the power cable, wait 3 minutes, and then click the touch screen button to check whether you can hear the sound.
4. If you can hear the sound, you can check the 2 bands in the following:
https://image.pushauction.com/0/0/dce5012a-1758-4291-8a6d-52d646eb6789/d770b77d-524c-47b5-8e88-6454abf03318.jpg
Here is the video for you to check how to unplug one band:
you can follow it to check another bands.
5. If the step 4 don't help, you can check the unplug the core chip, and then plug it aigan:
6. If the step 5 don\'t help, please use the pin to press the RST after you reconnect the power cable. You should press the RST hole until you saw the button light is flashing
to check whether you can see the image now.”
I’ve followed the steps 1 to 3 and nothing happened, no sounds.
just got back from work and I’m gonna give a shot to no4, unplug the chip…
I would press the reset pin as the first step, but as long as they are helping you through it.
If the unit has HDMI output, I would suggest hooking up an external monitor. If you see a valid image on the external monitor, then most likely the problem is the LCD display in the head unit. If nothing is displayed on the external then it's likely the core board or some part of the mainboard which may have overheated. These units have many weak points that can render them useless.
I will share with you that I had this exact same unit as yours and the TFT board (it's the board that interfaces the LCD display to the mainboard) had a component burn up which left the screen dark. Dasaita provided a new TFT board which got the display working again. If you do manage to get the unit going again, never run the display brightness at 100% or you risk having the TFT board problem.
Requested moderator to move this thread to MTCD Android Head Units General.
jlbooth said:
If the unit has HDMI output, I would suggest hooking up an external monitor. If you see a valid image on the external monitor, then most likely the problem is the LCD display in the head unit. If nothing is displayed on the external then it's likely the core board or some part of the mainboard which may have overheated. These units have many weak points that can render them useless.
I will share with you that I had this exact same unit as yours and the TFT board (it's the board that interfaces the LCD display to the mainboard) had a component burn up which left the screen dark. Dasaita provided a new TFT board which got the display working again. If you do manage to get the unit going again, never run the display brightness at 100% or you risk having the TFT board problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There isn’t a HDMI output, is there another way I could hook it up to a monitor ???
It’s interesting what you’re saying about the brightness, I often had it on max during the day and my partner who had the car on the day the unit died told me that she had the car heaters on ( it’s cold in the part of Australia where we at) and noticed that just before dying the screen brightness went dim.
it’s really confusing right now as I can’t figure out what exactly is the problem.
I tried everything the seller suggested and nothing worked. How long did your unit last ? I’m just wondering if I should just get a new one but it is annoying as I only had it for 2 years and I got the top of the range (at the time) from them.
Thank you
Only other option I can think of is that there may be composite video out connections via RCA connections if it has those. Since you say it does not connect to your phone via Bluetooth, that suggests the unit is not booting up when power removed and reconnected. I would venture a guess that the coreboard has an issue especially if the problem was caused by a thermal issue. But that's only an inconclusive guess on my part.
Even when the screen was an issue the unit would boot up and it connected with my phone.
My unit lasted about 5 months before the screen problem. However it was in my second vehicle and it wasn't my daily driver, thus it probably wouldn't have lasted that long if it was being used everyday. Fortunately in my case Dasaita provided the needed replacement board at no charge under warranty.
MrPoopyButtOle said:
The screen isn’t detachable.
I got in touch with the seller and that’s his reply:
“1. Do you try to power off the device to check?
2. If you have power off and it still doesn\'t help. Please remove the power cable and then wait 3 minutes to plug it again.
3. After plug the power cable, wait 3 minutes, and then click the touch screen button to check whether you can hear the sound.
4. If you can hear the sound, you can check the 2 bands in the following:
https://image.pushauction.com/0/0/dce5012a-1758-4291-8a6d-52d646eb6789/d770b77d-524c-47b5-8e88-6454abf03318.jpg
Here is the video for you to check how to unplug one band:
you can follow it to check another bands.
5. If the step 4 don't help, you can check the unplug the core chip, and then plug it aigan:
6. If the step 5 don\'t help, please use the pin to press the RST after you reconnect the power cable. You should press the RST hole until you saw the button light is flashing
to check whether you can see the image now.”
I’ve followed the steps 1 to 3 and nothing happened, no sounds.
just got back from work and I’m gonna give a shot to no4, unplug the chip…
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my teardowns of my MAX10 unit (Toyota Universal + PX6 + Car Play), you have a little driver board behind the screen. It isn't the same as the picture you sent as mine is a universal type unit. On yours all the buttons are off the big pcb board and the driver board is soldered onto that (so not physically removable without some soldering). But if the buttons light up then your unit is turning on somewhat. So what I can see from step 4: #2 is the ribbon connecting the screen driver board to the mainboard; #3 is ribbon connector for the lcd display panel, #1 is your CPU board. There's a photo translator app on google play if you want to give that a try with the labels in Chinese.
Best of luck with this mate. The HDMI out is a mini HDMI connector on the CPU board - see if you can get that to display something on a spare screen (on later units they just have a cable to that directly and they sell it off as having hdmi out). If it doesn't output anything then your CPU is potentially dead at this point. There is an STM32 microcontroller (i.e. the MCU) on the amp board and that can be powering up the button lights.
That "driver board" that @nxdesign refers to is the TFT board that Dasaita provided a replacement when my unit died. I could tell that my particular unit was at least booting up as I could see that it was pairing with bluetooth on my phone. I tend to believe OP's problem is either CPU or MCU failure - perhaps thermal related. These units don't provide adequate cooling.
You're welcome to send it to me in NZ, I often get SOMs sent to me for repair and would be happy to look at your unit. Failing that, suggest warranty.
nxdesign said:
From my teardowns of my MAX10 unit (Toyota Universal + PX6 + Car Play), you have a little driver board behind the screen. It isn't the same as the picture you sent as mine is a universal type unit. On yours all the buttons are off the big pcb board and the driver board is soldered onto that (so not physically removable without some soldering). But if the buttons light up then your unit is turning on somewhat. So what I can see from step 4: #2 is the ribbon connecting the screen driver board to the mainboard; #3 is ribbon connector for the lcd display panel, #1 is your CPU board. There's a photo translator app on google play if you want to give that a try with the labels in Chinese.
Best of luck with this mate. The HDMI out is a mini HDMI connector on the CPU board - see if you can get that to display something on a spare screen (on later units they just have a cable to that directly and they sell it off as having hdmi out). If it doesn't output anything then your CPU is potentially dead at this point. There is an STM32 microcontroller (i.e. the MCU) on the amp board and that can be powering up the button lights.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your help mate !
I couldn’t find this hdmi connector on the board. The seller is telling me it’s probably the core board and said the shipping cost isn’t worth it to send it back to them. Is there a different way to check the display ???
MrPoopyButtOle said:
Thank you for your help mate !
I couldn’t find this hdmi connector on the board. The seller is telling me it’s probably the core board and said the shipping cost isn’t worth it to send it back to them. Is there a different way to check the display ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A dead coreboard will mean you have a shell of a unit. Can they sell you a fresh coreboard? Or even better give you a new unit at a discount? Who knows what else might have been damaged with the heat.
Just an update on this. The unit was sent to me and received today.
The root cause was that the SOM was non-booting. Recovering the SOM via MASKROM has restored the unit.
The SOM has no additional heatsink or cooling, and this may have been a contributing factor.
can u tell me how do u fix it?? i also have same problem....?
Nothing worked after I did everything the merchant suggested. What was the lifespan of your unit? I'm wondering if I should just get a new one, but it's a pain because I just had it for two years and it was the top of the line (at the time).
Since I've purchased the Joying JY-UQD11N6G I have had nothing but problems with it. Such as:
The device will not power off or sleep when the ignition is switched off no matter the configuration.
The connected amp constantly remains on.
4G does not work with one of the suggested provider's SIM (T-Mobile). The SIM is recognized, works in other phones, but zero bars. Support has zero solution, and the solution in the blog does nothing.
A one pixel wide red line from top to bottom exists in the display. Support will not replace it.
These are just a few of the issues. So i've decided to scrap the board. I'm going to keep the display and the case and put either a Raspberry Pi 4 or a Radxa Rock 3a w/ 8GB of RAM in the case. I'll put a Hi-fi Berry hat or something similar on top for digital audio output and 5.1 signal processing to run to the amp. I could really use some help with the pinout of the UIS7862 40 pin display connector from the community. I can't find this or a schematic for the device anywhere. I'm not certain if this is just using the same protocols as the GPIO standard or if it's something custom.
Looking inside the display case one finds a board with a large 40 pin connector on the back. Its mipi dsi/csi to edp converter is the Lontium LT8911EXB chip, but the board has no part number on it, so again, I can find no schematics/manual. Both the LCD display connect to this via a 40-pin ribbon and 2-pin wire harness, and the capacitive touchscreen via a 6-pin ribbon. I've attached pics of the board and the PDF that has some info about the chip.
So I'm not sure if the display connector on the UIS7862 is an unconventional adaptation of a DSI 40-pin output or a GPIO interface, but whatever it is, it carries the display data, touch data, and power for both. If anyone has a schematic showing the pinout, the actual FYT manual from this year or the last few years, or any information about this display that would be appreciated!
Bump
I have a Dasaita PX6 1024x600 headunit that's a little over 3 years old. It came with Android 9 and I upgraded it to Android 10 over a year ago and its been working fine up till yesterday. Yesterday I started my car and it began to boot, then abruptly turned off. It never finished booting because my phone never connected. Since then, the only response I can get from the head unit is the lights blink 3 times when I hold reset. I tried holding it longer, I tried giving it a quick press or two after the 3 blinks, but nothing happens. Nothing shows up on the display and my laptop doesn't see any USB device connected either if I try to connect it. The display backlight doesn't even come on. I tried pulling the fuse and reseatting the SOM but haven't had any luck getting this thing to work. All the wiring is fine and I'm getting 12V on B+ and also Ignition/ACC when the car is running.
Any idea how I can revive this thing or is it dead for good?
No surprise that it died after 3 years. They design them to last just past the warranty period (if lucky).
Anyway, the fact that the lights blink, "suggests" the MCU board is working at least a little bit. Would be helpful to know if the problem is SOM related or MCU related. Since we know the MCU is doing something when powered on, I would recommend maybe research some of the SOM recovery threads in the MTCD hardware forum. There is at least one thread detailing connecting the SOM to a PC with it removed from the head unit. The thread(s) you are looking for are regarding USB OTG recovery. At a minimum, you can find out if the SOM board is totally dead or just in a coma.
Maybe you can figure out if there's "signs of life" in the SOM board, that way. There are a few users here in the forums that have had success at recovering dead SOM boards.
Best of luck to you.
[PX3 & 5] [OTG] - No Headunit Mod, recover or flash a SOM with a simple USB cable
"Factory" Recovery for MTCx PX3, PX5 and PX6 SOM. Finally - OTG for all without modifying your head-unit. With only basic electronic/soldering skills, get OTG and fearlessly flash or recover a 'bricked' MTCD/E (HCT printed on SOM) Rockchip PX3...
forum.xda-developers.com
Thanks! I think I can safely say this thing is beyond recovery. I created the USB cable and made sure to measure the voltage, which is a perfect 5v and 3.3v using those resistors as specified. I connected it keeping in mind to move everything 2 pins over since in the pictures their PX5 was missing the first 4 pins. Nothing happens when I connect to the laptop, using usblogview i can see it doesnt even detect any device being connected. I tried shorting the two pads next to the chip to force it into MASKROM mode but no luck. Seems to be totally dead. I verified all the connections and tested with a multimeter to make sure everything was making good contact. Sucks I couldn't revive it but at least I can say I tried!