Hi All, I have a Fire TV Box 2nd Gen (4K) Model - DV83YW. It is non-rooted and is fully stock. It was working fine until the day before yesterday, it rebooted and got stuck on boot loop. All I get is Amazon Logo and it then reboots. It never boots anymore.
I have tried to use
1) Remote (Back Arrow + Right Arrow) to see if I could go into Android Stock Recovery, but it failed
2) I used the keyboard Alt+Printscreen to go to recovery, but it failed
3) I used the keyboard Alt+i+Printscreen to go to recovery, but it failed
I have a USB A to A cable, but not sure what to do.
I tried ADB Devices, but it shows nothing.
Please advise if this can be recovered if not, I am ok either way.
I really appreciate any help you can provide.
If none of the traditional recovery methods are working it may be time to look at unlocking the FireTV so that you can install TWRP to reflash the device. It sounds like something is corrupted and refreshing the device may be your best bet.
[UNLOCK][ROOT][TWRP][UNBRICK] FireTV 2 (sloane)
Read this whole guide before starting. This is for the 2nd gen Fire TV (sloane) Current relase: amonet-sloane-v1.1 NOTE: This process does not require you to open your device if you're already rooted or you have TWRP. NOTE: If something goes...
forum.xda-developers.com
i tried this guide. I have MX Linux in Virtual Box and booted up. It doesn't even detect FireTV Box. All it does is boot up to Amazon White Logo and reboots after few.
nycelitemaster said:
i tried this guide. I have MX Linux in Virtual Box and booted up. It doesn't even detect FireTV Box. All it does is boot up to Amazon White Logo and reboots after few.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't keep up with the MediaTek exploits, but I thought I had read there are issues getting Fire Sticks in BROM mode using VMs. It's recommended that you make a live USB Linux/Ubuntu drive and boot your computer from that.
Ok, so I was able to get into the bootrom using bootrom.sh and I had to short the pins. Now it's stuck in the bootrom. it fails to flash and list the below error.
[2023-01-01 04:56:48.143592] Init crypto engine
[2023-01-01 04:56:48.169549] Disable caches
[2023-01-01 04:56:48.170155] Disable bootrom range checks
[2023-01-01 04:56:48.187133] Load payload from ../brom-payload/build/payload.bin = 0x4760 bytes
[2023-01-01 04:56:48.190866] Send payload
[2023-01-01 04:56:48.783464] Let's rock
[2023-01-01 04:56:48.785082] Wait for the payload to come online...
[2023-01-01 04:56:48.788922] all good
[2023-01-01 04:56:48.789113] Clear preloader header
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/home/ubuntu/Desktop/amonet/modules/main.py", line 146, in <module>
main()
File "/home/ubuntu/Desktop/amonet/modules/main.py", line 38, in main
flash_data(dev, b"EMMC_BOOT" + b"\x00" * ((0x200 * 8) - 9), 0)
File "/home/ubuntu/Desktop/amonet/modules/functions.py", line 59, in flash_data
dev.emmc_write(start_block + x, data[x * 0x200x + 1) * 0x200])
File "/home/ubuntu/Desktop/amonet/modules/common.py", line 218, in emmc_write
raise RuntimeError("device failure")
RuntimeError: device failure
can this be recovered or this is a done?
nycelitemaster said:
can this be recovered or this is a done?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try re-running the process several times?
My limited knowledge of Sloane is that it's fussy about staying in brom mode, and that the bootrom.sh procedure may have to be repeated many times for success (maybe +10x).
But if you have already tried a few times and it always stops at 'clear preloader header', then there may be another problem.
As long as the eMMC hasn't reached its end of life and is still writeable, there's hope.
I have tried approx 10+ times. I tried two diff cables and 3 ports. MX Linux doesn't go in SystemD boot. I tried in Ubuntu 22.04 and 22.10. I get the same error. I think it's the emmc shot.
nycelitemaster said:
I have tried approx 10+ times. I tried two diff cables and 3 ports. MX Linux doesn't go in SystemD boot. I tried in Ubuntu 22.04 and 22.10. I get the same error. I think it's the emmc shot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make sure that you use the (newer) 'unlock' for sloane, not the old amonet for locked bootloaders.
Then try the gpt-fix instead the bootrom-step.
Sloane is known for device failures, the eMMC switchs to read/only which is not to recover, especially if it's a Samsung eMMC.
Good luck
Edit: Could be also a damaged resistor at DAT0, due to much shorting. eMMC is still fine in this case, but becomes 100% unavailable...
Mine is Samsung Emmc. Is there a link that you can share for the new method. This was not rooted and was on the latest firmware by Amazon. Sadly one day, it was stuck in boot loop
nycelitemaster said:
Mine is Samsung Emmc. Is there a link that you can share for the new method.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
[UNLOCK][ROOT][TWRP][UNBRICK] FireTV 2 (sloane)
Read this whole guide before starting. This is for the 2nd gen Fire TV (sloane) Current relase: amonet-sloane-v1.1 NOTE: This process does not require you to open your device if you're already rooted or you have TWRP. NOTE: If something goes...
forum.xda-developers.com
nycelitemaster said:
This was not rooted and was on the latest firmware by Amazon. Sadly one day, it was stuck in boot loop
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lets see if the gpt-fix helps...
If emmc_write fails, most likely your eMMC is dead and there is no way to recover the device.
Sus_i said:
[UNLOCK][ROOT][TWRP][UNBRICK] FireTV 2 (sloane)
Read this whole guide before starting. This is for the 2nd gen Fire TV (sloane) Current relase: amonet-sloane-v1.1 NOTE: This process does not require you to open your device if you're already rooted or you have TWRP. NOTE: If something goes...
forum.xda-developers.com
Lets see if the gpt-fix helps...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like emmc is shot. I get emmc write error. Possibly it failed since this was my main box that was used every day. I'll just buy either FireTV Stick 4K or 4K Max when they go on sale. Currently, i have a spare FireTV Stick Gen 1 that i bought for $8
Related
Anyone have the steps to take to preform a hard reset of fix a non booting device?
I am stuck on the amazon Fire TV part where the boot animation is doing nothing. Can't get past this screen and have been stuck for the last 10 minutes.
jamesrascal said:
Anyone have the steps to take to preform a hard reset of fix a non booting device?
I am stuck on the amazon Fire TV part where the boot animation is doing nothing. Can't get past this screen and have been stuck for the last 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
End Result. If you brick you box Amazon has no troubleshooting steps outside of rebooting the box. Once you get past that step and your still having an issue Amazon will issue you a replacement FireTV.
You will need to call Amazon as the Live chat is useless: 866-216-1072 Press 0 and ask to be transferred to the Fire TV department.
jamesrascal said:
Anyone have the steps to take to preform a hard reset of fix a non booting device?
I am stuck on the amazon Fire TV part where the boot animation is doing nothing. Can't get past this screen and have been stuck for the last 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, boy. That is unfortunate. What did you do that lead to bricking your box?
I am in the same situation with one of my FireTV box. What caused it was one of the SQLite editor I used to explore the settings database: it changed the permissions on the files. I only realized the problem once I rebooted it
On the other box, I used the SQLite3 command line client from TitaniumBackup instead, and directly did my edit as root. No problem there.
Unfortunately, I am not in US; so if there is a way to do a hard reset, I would be glad to know.
if you bought yours at a local best buy and are a select customer, you may have an extended return policy.
You must have edited something you shouldn't have with the sqlite editor. I edited mine to allow package installs and did a factory reset and its all good. Did you only disable the updates through pm disable com.amazon.dcp or did you also edit the /etc/hosts? Lets get this figured out so others don't end up the same way.
Stupid question, did you pick TWRP as a method of recovery during the rooting process? I did that on my note 10.1 and boy did it mess up that tablet when I tried to recover it. Luckily I had Odin at the time.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
arman68 said:
I am in the same situation with one of my FireTV box. What caused it was one of the SQLite editor I used to explore the settings database: it changed the permissions on the files. I only realized the problem once I rebooted it
On the other box, I used the SQLite3 command line client from TitaniumBackup instead, and directly did my edit as root. No problem there.
Unfortunately, I am not in US; so if there is a way to do a hard reset, I would be glad to know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you recall which sqlite editor app you used that caused the problem?
Be interesting to know if there's a stock recovery, and if there is, if it's looking for an update.zip file on a thumb drive in the USB slot. We can tell that USB slot is getting polled at start time by the way that certain connections to it will hang the device.
If it were me, I'd try is to obtain a 1 gig or so USB drive, format it fat32 and copy the OTA update to it.
- Leave it zipped.
- Name it update.zip
- pull the plug on the FTV
- put the USB stick in
- power it on and leave it for a bit. Watch it - is the power LED going out? If so, it may doing a recovery install of the signed OTA and rebooting - many Android devices will install anything on the sdcard called Update.zip if it's there at boot time.
The idea is that if there's a stock recovery it may be able to see that USB storage and read the OTA file as a recovery source.
roustabout said:
Be interesting to know if there's a stock recovery, and if there is, if it's looking for an update.zip file on a thumb drive in the USB slot. We can tell that USB slot is getting polled at start time by the way that certain connections to it will hang the device.
If it were me, I'd try is to obtain a 1 gig or so USB drive, format it fat32 and copy the OTA update to it.
- Leave it zipped.
- Name it update.zip
- pull the plug on the FTV
- put the USB stick in
- power it on and leave it for a bit. Watch it - is the power LED going out? If so, it may doing a recovery install of the signed OTA and rebooting - many Android devices will install anything on the sdcard called Update.zip if it's there at boot time.
The idea is that if there's a stock recovery it may be able to see that USB storage and read the OTA file as a recovery source.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There might be something to this idea. There was a review posted on Amazon and the reviewer had a Best Buy box that wouldn't go past the Amazon screen. They said Amazon told them how to use the USB to get it to work. A couple people asked for more info but they never responded. I have tried going back through the reviews to see if they ever did, but there are almost 6000 reviews.
kairnage said:
There might be something to this idea. There was a review posted on Amazon and the reviewer had a Best Buy box that wouldn't go past the Amazon screen. They said Amazon told them how to use the USB to get it to work. A couple people asked for more info but they never responded. I have tried going back through the reviews to see if they ever did, but there are almost 6000 reviews.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have only sideloaded a few apps , no root or root attempt was made before issues.
i have a similar boot issue ( stops at amazon first screen and led flashes white) . i believe my remote is fried , batteries heated up while pressing the home button to pair remote , i removed battery and found the plastic wrap on one starting to burn . i believe remote is toast .
can anyone verify that the boot will stop until remote is paired ?
ps : amazon phone help mentioned reset on remote was hold right arrow key ( ie right circle ) and home button for 10 secs , to reset just the remote ,. nothing helped mine , i say its dead. another is on the way ,. he also said the lack of pairing with remote should not have stopped the ftv boot , it should have gone past first amazon screen . other than restarting the ftv by disconnecting power he offered no other reset method .
bkdg100 said:
i have a similar boot issue ( stops at amazon first screen and led flashes white) . i believe my remote is fried , batteries heated up while pressing the home button to pair remote , i removed battery and found the plastic wrap on one starting to burn . i believe remote is toast .
can anyone verify that the boot will stop until remote is paired ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Removed batteries from remote and rebooted FTV, boots like normal, could not find a way to delete a paired remote otherwise I would have tried that too,
userr12 said:
Removed batteries from remote and rebooted FTV, boots like normal, could not find a way to delete a paired remote otherwise I would have tried that too,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks ,. i called amazon they confirmed normal boot even without pairing ,. also said how to reset "just the remote" ,. right tab and home for 10secs.
kairnage said:
There might be something to this idea. There was a review posted on Amazon and the reviewer had a Best Buy box that wouldn't go past the Amazon screen. They said Amazon told them how to use the USB to get it to work. A couple people asked for more info but they never responded. I have tried going back through the reviews to see if they ever did, but there are almost 6000 reviews.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm trying to find that review now. so far nothing
fireTVnews.com said:
Do you recall which sqlite editor app you used that caused the problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have reviewed the logs of what I did, and it was my fault:
I used a non-root SQLite editor, which means I had to give -rw-rw-rw- access to the database folder and content, which I did.
With the SQLite editor, all I did was to explore the database structure.
Once done, I restored the original permissions, fist -rw------- (chmod 660) on the database folder and database file itself.
Finally I restored read-only -r-------- (chmod 600) to the extra files (settings-*), and that was my mistake: I did not notice my chmod line had 2 entries, with the first one being the database folder (wrong)
If only I would have root write access to the file system with adb, I could easily fix it, with a simple chmod 660 on the database folder.
In hindsight, I was very careless to do that directly on the FireTV; I should have taken a copy of settings.db, and explore it on the PC.
Luxferro said:
I'm trying to find that review now. so far nothing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I took a look again today. Their search doesn't really drill down very well.
Luxferro said:
I'm trying to find that review now. so far nothing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
kairnage said:
Yeah I took a look again today. Their search doesn't really drill down very well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are all the reviews with the word "USB" in them on one page:
http://firetvnews.com/review_usb.html
I skimmed through it but couldn't find the elusive review.
@Firetv: please review post #15 in this thread, and consider adjusting the post on your website accordingly - when I saw your site, it was stating that adjusting values in the settings databases risked changing the permissions on those databases.
That does not appear to be the case, but rather reflected confusion on the part of the person who was doing the settings changes and permissions changes from the shell at the same time.
I haven't seen a db editor that changes the permissions of the dbs themselves....'
Back to softbricked devices: I see that Amazon sells a thing called a "fastboot cable" which in theory forces the Kindle Fires to reboot into fastboot mode if attached to a computer. I'd be interested in what one of these did in conjunction with an A to A converter, since I haven't seen fastboot mode available yet (that I know of)
roustabout said:
@Firetv: please review post #15 in this thread, and consider adjusting the post on your website accordingly - when I saw your site, it was stating that adjusting values in the settings databases risked changing the permissions on those databases.
That does not appear to be the case, but rather reflected confusion on the part of the person who was doing the settings changes and permissions changes from the shell at the same time.
I haven't seen a db editor that changes the permissions of the dbs themselves....'
Back to softbricked devices: I see that Amazon sells a thing called a "fastboot cable" which in theory forces the Kindle Fires to reboot into fastboot mode if attached to a computer. I'd be interested in what one of these did in conjunction with an A to A converter, since I haven't seen fastboot mode available yet (that I know of)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've definitely been tempted to remove the warning about SQLite databases after reading arman68's update. I haven't, however, because I've been individually contact by someone stating they used a free SQLite app from the Google Play store which caused them to lose their ethernet connection and soft-bricked after a restart.
I have gone ahead and updated the post to reduce the concern and stated that the SQLite Editor app everyone is using here seems to be safe.
Also, a fastboot connection can be achieved with any A to A USB cable. You simply need to boot the Fire TV while it's connected to a computer and it will boot into fastboot. I've done this myself with a Mac (have not tried a PC). The Fire TV displays a white Amazon logo on the screen and stays there until you reboot it without the cable plugged in. There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with the locked bootloader, but then again, I'm not the one to know as that is all new territory for me. Got any suggestions on things to try with fastboot?
fireTVnews.com said:
I've definitely been tempted to remove the warning about SQLite databases after reading arman68's update. I haven't, however, because I've been individually contact by someone stating they used a free SQLite app from the Google Play store which caused them to lose their ethernet connection and soft-bricked after a restart.
I have gone ahead and updated the post to reduce the concern and stated that the SQLite Editor app everyone is using here seems to be safe.
Also, a fastboot connection can be achieved with any A to A USB cable. You simply need to boot the Fire TV while it's connected to a computer and it will boot into fastboot. I've done this myself with a Mac (have not tried a PC). The Fire TV displays a white Amazon logo on the screen and stays there until you reboot it without the cable plugged in. There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with the locked bootloader, but then again, I'm not the one to know as that is all new territory for me. Got any suggestions on things to try with fastboot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't mean to say you can't hose your device by changing settings with an editor, just that I don't think any of them change permissions. so using them to look but not change is pretty safe, IMO, and I'd hate to see folks discouraged from doing so.
I'm surprised that there's not a better onboard recovery on this device, or at least not one anyone's figured out how to get moving. I'dthink it'd be cheaper for Amazon if the devices had a viable recovery, or if there was a solid reset to factory which actually did a full reinstall of the OS.
Interesting about the fastboot mode - when i connect the FTV to my laptop using an A to A cable I don't get a device recognized in fastboot, but it may be down to not having a driver for it.
I bought a Fire TV stick back in December 2014 and I remember rooting it (I don't remember what method I used), but then I lost interest thanks to the chromecast... Now 3 1/2 years later I find a use for the Fire TV Stick (media player on my boat) so I pulled it out of storage and booted it up. I wanted to install Kodi but every menu option I selected has an error contacting Amazon, so I decided I should just update it (probably a BAD idea!). The update (5.2.6.3) seems to have installed fine just fine, but now I still can't get anything on any menus and I can no longer enable ADB or unknown sources. When I boot it up I don't see anything about TWRP or CWM, so I don't think the bootloader is modified. At this point I don't know how I can get any apps on it (the apps menu doesn't even load) or get into any debug mode, does anyone have any ideas where I could start? I also tried a factory reset but it didn't change anything.
Buy a new firestick bro they dont cost anything these days.
Until yesterday I had a functional FTV stick, now paperweight.
I installed an application for watching TV. The application installed ok but, when launched, told me it needs the Google Play services.
So I went and installed the Google Play services, which also installed ok.
I relaunched the application, which this time just froze, and I could not back out of it. So I rebooted the FTV, with the result that now it starts booting, gets to the white Amazon logo with music and from there it boots again, and again in an infinite loop.
I tried powering it from an external supply - no change. I tried the Right button/Back button remote combination - no change. I did NOT unlock the bootloader (did not expect such a problem and was not aware that it is doable); I do not have ADB enabled.
I read that there is a way to unbrick using a USB keyboard combination but I only have one micro-USB port on the stick which is used for power supply, so I don't see how I can connect a keyboard.
Any suggestions how to proceed from here will be most welcome. Thanks in advance.
Hi there,
Same happened to me. I received a brand new 4k Stick.. it worked like a charm for 20 min, I installed a few thing, and then when I rebooted it started the loop with the amazon logo. youtube.com/watch?v=zK5a-2MILOU
I dont know what to do; my FireStick is not rooted so I cant fastboot or adb it; I cant enter anywhere!
I dont have any OTG to connect a keyboard, neither a keyboard. I have been traying to solve with a thousand of ways which i read on this forum, but nothing fixed it.
I have 2 options, and i dont know if they will work:
1.- Buy o make a fastboot cable. I dont know if it works for Firestick, and I dont know what to do if it works! Should I install a new rom? Which one?!
2.- Buy a OTG and a keyboard to try to enter to the recovery mode. But if I actually enter in there, would I be able to fix it?
What do you guys think?
Thanks!!
ddoouubbllee said:
Hi there,
Same happened to me. I received a brand new 4k Stick.. it worked like a charm for 20 min, I installed a few thing, and then when I rebooted it started the loop with the amazon logo. youtube.com/watch?v=zK5a-2MILOU
I dont know what to do; my FireStick is not rooted so I cant fastboot or adb it; I cant enter anywhere!
I dont have any OTG to connect a keyboard, neither a keyboard. I have been traying to solve with a thousand of ways which i read on this forum, but nothing fixed it.
I have 2 options, and i dont know if they will work:
1.- Buy o make a fastboot cable. I dont know if it works for Firestick, and I dont know what to do if it works! Should I install a new rom? Which one?!
2.- Buy a OTG and a keyboard to try to enter to the recovery mode. But if I actually enter in there, would I be able to fix it?
What do you guys think?
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I contacted Amazon customer support (via online chat) and told them the story. In spite of me not being able to offer any proof of purchase (all went to the bin as the FTV worked so well - until it didn't anymore) they offered me the choice between a 40% discount on a new unit, or a free replacement they could only ship to an US address. As I live in Europe I don't have such an address BUT - I found a company that will receive a shipment on my behalf at an US address and will forward it to my European address for the shipping cost plus a small fee. So I chose this option and I just got an email that the replacement was shipped to the US address.
So, bottom line, I will end up with a new unit (which first thing I will open up all the possible ways - unlock bootloader, enable ADB etc.) and, if ever I will succeed to salvage the old one, I will have a spare for free
Anyway, kudos to Amazon for a great customer support experience.
avidav said:
I contacted Amazon customer support (via online chat) and told them the story. In spite of me not being able to offer any proof of purchase (all went to the bin as the FTV worked so well - until it didn't anymore) they offered me the choice between a 40% discount on a new unit, or a free replacement they could only ship to an US address. As I live in Europe I don't have such an address BUT - I found a company that will receive a shipment on my behalf at an US address and will forward it to my European address for the shipping cost plus a small fee. So I chose this option and I just got an email that the replacement was shipped to the US address.
So, bottom line, I will end up with a new unit (which first thing I will open up all the possible ways - unlock bootloader, enable ADB etc.) and, if ever I will succeed to salvage the old one, I will have a spare for free
Anyway, kudos to Amazon for a great customer support experience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lucky you; i live in Chile and they dont want to send me anything. I need to fix the unit I have..
If anybody can help me ill be very gratefull!
Same with me, and i have fix as below video, please find fix description, i hope also you will fix it.
https://youtu.be/R7EA_VLDxZ4
erolmutlu said:
Same with me, and i have fix as below video, please find fix description, i hope also you will fix it.
https://youtu.be/R7EA_VLDxZ4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does not work. ADB does not find any device attached.
Does anyone have any news on how to solve the problem? please help
avidav said:
Does not work. ADB does not find any device attached.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi! I have tried to adb link my fire stick when I got the stick from amazon,but failed.Tried thousands times,then I found something that may help:
Unplug the usb port from the amazon charger,plug it directly into the usb hole on PC.
Open the adb window on PC,may be at this time the adb can find the device.
Maybe you could use the adb on PC connect another android phone at first,if it succeed so you will know the adb software on PC is all right.
I found there is something wrong with the last version of the adb software:"the port missing.....".You may try an old version of adb.
Good Luck!
I've tried USB Keyboard <ALT> + <Print> + <i> , also + <Shift> and + <Ctrl>, several combinations / orders.
Seems not to work anymore - keeps looping
After Looping about half a day 4K came up once.
You have to do a factory reset then, otherwise another half day on next boot up.
Network was USB-Hub - USB-Ethernet, don't know if important.
I have to admin that patient i the best way to solve that problem.
It helped me also. I wait for about 24h and it boot up to system and now i'm restored it to default and all works fine
abdel85 said:
I have to admin that patient i the best way to solve that problem.
It helped me also. I wait for about 24h and it boot up to system and now i'm restored it to default and all works fine
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you keep your TV POWER ON during the bootloop process?
Fell into it and fixed it twice
Hey guys , I had this problem twice already because of trying to install google services on it and i was searching for hours and hours and i came to this thread and i had no choice but try the solution offered by @iwl in the first time ,because i had never authorised any computer to connect to this stick before, i didnt even knew about it, so i left the FireStick 4K connected to TV and its adapter normally and let it loop as much as it wanted, i actually went to bed and on the next day it was back on, i did a mistake a didnt reset it immediately so later on i had another half a day of bootlooping and when it was up again after a few hours i reset it and of course all apps were lost , not a big deal as long as my FS is back to life.
Now is the nice part that made any bootloop later on a piece of cake, i went immediately and connected the stick to to Minimal ADB via WIFI so i could authorise the computer to connect to it( it is a one time thing, there are some videos about how to do that from which i also learnt the method).
The second time i was prepared so i took the risk and wanted to install Play services in order to get some other app work and not for the sake of google, so i fell into the loop, disconnected the Stick from TV and connected it with the USB cable only to my computer which i authorised before on this specific stick, ran Minimal ADB and fastboot and ran the following commands in the shell (use commands between the " ")
"adb kill-server"
"adb start-server"
to make sure that i am connected to the stick "adb devices"
-you will get list of connected devices
Then unistall the nasty app , in my case it was google so it used these commands
"adb uninstall com.google.android.gms"
in case you have a problem with another app , you could check the app's name with the following command "adb shell pm list packages -f"
find it's and use it the abovementioned uninstall command.
Then in the end , disconnect the device properly with "adb disconnect" and then "adb kill-server"
Voila , back on , all apps were there and only the nasty app was gone
I hope i could be helpful to someone
Mine over 24 hrs still in bootloop. I hope you're telling the truth.
Thank you, I fixed my bootloop with this method.
For me the TV USB 1A didn't work (1st day) and the PC USB also didn't work (2nd day) , only when I plugged it to an USB (2A? 2.5A?) direct to a power outlet that it got able to boot after 8 hours.
Use the included USB Power Adapter and Cable. Especially many other USB Cables are weak and can't transport 1 Amp.
PC USB 2.0 provides only 0,5 Amps, 3.0 0,7 (or 0,8?) Amps but not 1.
Tried to repair it, but nothing helps. Anybody could check, which app could cause bootloop?
package:com.android.cts.priv.ctsshim
package:com.amazon.net.smartconnect
package:com.amazon.tv.resolutioncycler
package:com.google.android.athome.globalkeyinterceptor
package:com.amazon.recess
package:com.amazon.platform.fdrw
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Problem solved!
What worked for me?
adb shell pm list packages -f
Then copy output to notepad and uninstall all listed apps. Every single one. After this fire tv restarted few times and i have it working again.
Took some time do do it, but it is working now.
I have waited for 5 days without success, but this worked.
Firestick 4k Boot loop issue solved using Y-OTG cable
Hello, I had the same problem. I did not have my fire stick 4k connected to my laptop adb before I installed Google play so I could not uninstall play store and play services using adb. I came across this link and followed exactly what mentioned, It let me boot in to safe mode then I uninstalled play store and play services then did a normal boot. It works well now. (This url is non-English so allow google translate to English)
I got y-otg cable from Amazon, I Kept holding ctrl+alt+menu+printscreen keys while another person assisted to plug in the fire stick power adapter. I kept hitting the "i" key. It started the regular white screen with orange amazon logo after few moments darkscreen+safemode in left bottom appeared then I got my screen. clicked "your applications" and uninstalled both culprits then power off and power on.
(Both blue tooth and usb key board supports to invoke the safe mode)
(add https www to the url)
android-hilfe.de/forum/amazon-fire-tv-stick.2146/google-apps-bootloop-praevention-und-infos-fuer-den-ernstfall-fire-tv-4k.918292.html
How to unbrick or factory reset...
avidav said:
Until yesterday I had a functional FTV stick, now paperweight.
I installed an application for watching TV. The application installed ok but, when launched, told me it needs the Google Play services.
So I went and installed the Google Play services, which also installed ok.
I relaunched the application, which this time just froze, and I could not back out of it. So I rebooted the FTV, with the result that now it starts booting, gets to the white Amazon logo with music and from there it boots again, and again in an infinite loop.
I tried powering it from an external supply - no change. I tried the Right button/Back button remote combination - no change. I did NOT unlock the bootloader (did not expect such a problem and was not aware that it is doable); I do not have ADB enabled.
I read that there is a way to unbrick using a USB keyboard combination but I only have one micro-USB port on the stick which is used for power supply, so I don't see how I can connect a keyboard.
Any suggestions how to proceed from here will be most welcome. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
....
To unbrick or factory reset it, you will need an OTG cable with charger and USB conector to connect an logitech keyboard or another multimedia keyboard.
Then with the fire tv turning on ( in loop status ), push at the same time ( ctrl+alt+del ) and when it restart push ( FN key+ Option key -square with lines ) over and over again, until it enter in SAFE MODE. Then, go to my fire tv and push factory reset. ... Good luck. ( if you request the video i going to upload soon in youtube).
I have 2 firestick 4ks.
Both identical in that they are rooted and debloated with (the same) various system apps frozen...
Both been running fine for a month or so...
Where I live I get frequent power cuts.
Yesterday after a power cut... one reboots correctly the other just goes to a black screen.
I connected it to my PC and ADB into it, I reenabled all apps via adb and rebooted, it just went to the same black screen.
So I booted to TWRP and reflashed RBoxes prerooted image, still nothing...
I then installed a stock image (Skel40's).... Still nothing.
Up to this point I had only been wiping Cache & Dalvik and dirty flashing.
I figured that there was a corrupted file that was affecting full boot, so I made the mistake of wiping data and installing stock again...
When I rebooted I had lost ADB!
I could still see the firestick in windows, however it just comes up as "Fire" in device manager with no ADB..
I grabbed an OTG cable and booted to TWRP and tried a few more times... each time gave exactly the same black screen (no orange amazon logo).
Finally I tried wiping system as well in case something was corrupted and reflashed stock.... Still nothing!
So I don't really know where to go from here... (I'm going to backup the other firestick and restore that over this one then reflash stock and see where that gets me...)
Does anyone have any ideas! I can get into TWRP, but I'm not sure it's wiping or flashing things correctly...
Any help greatly appreciated... Thx
Have you done any of the ideas listed in the other thread? Let me know if i can help #lockdown
Michajin said:
Have you done any of the ideas listed in the other thread? Let me know if i can help #lockdown
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Michajin...
Thanks for taking the time to help
I'll fill you in as to what I have and haven't tried...
I have wiped all standard partitions ( cache, dalvik, data, system) and reflashed both rooted and stock images *.*.6.8 and *.*.7.1
I think I may have wiped the Vendor partition, I'm not sure.
Under backup in TWRP I can see the Vendor partition, however under Wipe I see an extra 2 partitions (both) called storage and having not made a backup (I know!... )
I did'nt realise that the storage partition(s) may have been the Vendor partition.
After wiping cache, dalvik, data, system partitions and then flashing stock and rooted images multiple times and still getting a black screen... I tried wiping the one storage then the other and then finally Internal.
A couple of points that I can tell you...
I can boot to TWRP
I can reboot to hacked Bootloader
When I connect the firestick to my windows PC It's senses it straight away for a bout 10 seconds then drops it... It then senses it again and stays connected to my PC.
Windows recognizes it under portable devices as simply "fire" and an empty explorer window pops up, if I right click on the firestick in windows explorer (it shows as drive) I can pull a properties page which shows its serial number...!
On both my firesticks I have modified my build.prop for a faster boot which doesn't show the splash screen.
Both sticks were modified identically about a month ago and once setup had nothing added to them. They just get used for Kodi and catch-up TV apps.
I root them so as to boot directly into Kodi and freeze the bloat.
Both sticks have been rebooted multiple times.. This one failed after a powercut...
I been reading in the main rooting thread and have come across something about sticks not booting properly due to dm_verity failing and having to flash magisk before (or after... I'm not sure) the image flash.
I'm still reading through the thread so haven't tried anything yet... When i get head round what it is, I'll try.
The other 2 ideas I thought to try was to
1) flash an image directly from the bootloader (if possible.. I need to find more info on this) and
2) taking a backup of the working stick and trying that (It's in use a lot... due to #TotalLockdown! we're at 4 weeks with heavy police curfew! So I haven't had access to it)
If have any ideas or thoughts... I would be very grateful. Also I'm happy to try anything...
tinybilbo said:
Hi Michajin...
Thanks for taking the time to help
I'll fill you in as to what I have and haven't tried...
I have wiped all standard partitions ( cache, dalvik, data, system) and reflashed both rooted and stock images *.*.6.8 and *.*.7.1
I think I may have wiped the Vendor partition, I'm not sure.
Under backup in TWRP I can see the Vendor partition, however under Wipe I see an extra 2 partitions (both) called storage and having not made a backup (I know!... )
I did'nt realise that the storage partition(s) may have been the Vendor partition.
After wiping cache, dalvik, data, system partitions and then flashing stock and rooted images multiple times and still getting a black screen... I tried wiping the one storage then the other and then finally Internal.
A couple of points that I can tell you...
I can boot to TWRP
I can reboot to hacked Bootloader
When I connect the firestick to my windows PC It's senses it straight away for a bout 10 seconds then drops it... It then senses it again and stays connected to my PC.
Windows recognizes it under portable devices as simply "fire" and an empty explorer window pops up, if I right click on the firestick in windows explorer (it shows as drive) I can pull a properties page which shows its serial number...!
On both my firesticks I have modified my build.prop for a faster boot which doesn't show the splash screen.
Both sticks were modified identically about a month ago and once setup had nothing added to them. They just get used for Kodi and catch-up TV apps.
I root them so as to boot directly into Kodi and freeze the bloat.
Both sticks have been rebooted multiple times.. This one failed after a powercut...
I been reading in the main rooting thread and have come across something about sticks not booting properly due to dm_verity failing and having to flash magisk before (or after... I'm not sure) the image flash.
I'm still reading through the thread so haven't tried anything yet... When i get head round what it is, I'll try.
The other 2 ideas I thought to try was to
1) flash an image directly from the bootloader (if possible.. I need to find more info on this) and
2) taking a backup of the working stick and trying that (It's in use a lot... due to #TotalLockdown! we're at 4 weeks with heavy police curfew! So I haven't had access to it)
If have any ideas or thoughts... I would be very grateful. Also I'm happy to try anything...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's really strange. Usually these steps should fix the issue :
1) Factory Reset from TWRP
2)Wipe System from TWRP
3) Flash full stock (non rooted) firmware
Of course, you could try flashing each image with hacked fastboot, or just boot, system and vendor with TWRP, which also have an option (install image) for that.
But you will have to convert system and vendor from sparse (.dat) to . img before being able to flash them.
Wiping these should have taken care of you issue.
"After wiping cache, dalvik, data, system partitions and then flashing stock and rooted images multiple times and still getting a black screen... I tried wiping the one storage then the other and then finally Internal."
What stock did you flash from where?
When you flash stock are there any errors?
You should be able to take a backup from you other one also for other one (if you are doing a full backup/restore, i would wipe data and cache after restore)
Thanks guys for the replies, I couldn't respond earlier due to an 8 hr powercut today!
Pretoriano80 said:
It's really strange. Usually these steps should fix the issue :
1) Factory Reset from TWRP
2)Wipe System from TWRP
3) Flash full stock (non rooted) firmware
Of course, you could try flashing each image with hacked fastboot, or just boot, system and vendor with TWRP, which also have an option (install image) for that.
But you will have to convert system and vendor from sparse (.dat) to . img before being able to flash them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Pretoriano80
Yeah... It's really weird... I'm starting to think that the stick is damaged in some way, although the fact I can get in both the hacked bootloader and TWRP confuses me!
I've even wiped each partition 3 or 4 times (and rebooted back into recovery to remount) before writing the new image just to make sure.!
I'm ready to try anything at this point, since the stick is a brick at this point.
I'm not really sure how or what to flash from the bootloader, I'll read up a bit before I try especially your tips about converting from sparse to .img.
(I may have some further questions for you, if that's alright )
I will try to restore a backup from another stick first (if I can get access to that stick for long enough...)
Michajin said:
Wiping these should have taken care of you issue.
"After wiping cache, dalvik, data, system partitions and then flashing stock and rooted images multiple times and still getting a black screen... I tried wiping the one storage then the other and then finally Internal."
What stock did you flash from where?
When you flash stock are there any errors?
You should be able to take a backup from you other one also for other one (if you are doing a full backup/restore, i would wipe data and cache after restore)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Michajin
Thanks again for taking the time to reply... much appreciated...
I have tried this stock image update-kindle-mantis-NS6271_user_2493_0003590962564
https://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/general/official-stock-image-fire-tv-stick-4k-6-t4059777
as well as a update-kindle-mantis-NS6268_user_2315_0003255372676 image (stock that I think i got from the main rooting thread)
I've also used Rboxes pre-rooted image mantis-6.2.6.8-rooted_r1
which was the image that worked fine on both boxes...
I'm happy to try any other image that you might have a link for.....
When I wipe the partitions there are no errors, except for when I wiped the storage partitions - they did throw up an error - although at this point I had already tried flashing new images at least a dozen times,
All the images flash without error as well!
I'm stumped... I've never had any android device brick before... (soft bricks many times! but never a hard brick), and it's weird since I have access to both the bootloader and TWRP.
Tomorrow I'll be able to get a restore image from the other stick, Then I'll try flashing from bootloader..
The only other thing i thought to try was to crack the case open and redo the the whole root procedure from scratch...
Sorry to double-post...
However I wanted to add this as a separate post rather than an edit.
After playing with my firestick for a few days, during which I tried a working backup and erasing from the bootloader and then restoring multiple images (stock and prerooted), as well running the exploit again.
I realised that the OS was loading (I regained ADB after the full restore) despite not giving an image over HDMI (just a black screen).
I was about to give up when I happened to be going through the options in ADBLink and I found the screenshot button.
I gave it a try and to my surprise it sent back an image of the stick with a working OS/screen.
I even manged to navigate through the settings and do a full reset from within FireOS by taking screengrabs.
After the reset it still gave a black screen, I re-enabled ADB from TWRP and was able to verify that it had reset correctly...
From ADB I ran a logcat...
I'm not really familiar with logcat but a couple of things seemed to jump out...
Code:
1) 596 617 I DisplayManagerService: Display device changed: DisplayDeviceInfo{"Built-in Screen": uniqueId="local:0", 720 x 480, modeId 4, defaultModeId 1, supportedModes [{id=1, width=1920, height=1080, fps=60.000004}, {id=2, width=1920, height=1080, fps=59.94}, {id=3, width=720, height=576, fps=50.0}, {id=4, width=720, height=480, fps=60.000004}], colorMode 0, supportedColorModes [0], HdrCapabilities [email protected], density 320, 213.0 x 216.0 dpi, appVsyncOff 1000000, presDeadline 16666666, touch INTERNAL, rotation 0, type BUILT_IN, state ON, FLAG_DEFAULT_DISPLAY, FLAG_SECURE, FLAG_SUPPORTS_PROTECTED_BUFFERS}
2) 1145 1145 I AmazonHdmiServiceManager: resolution applied and hdmi turned off
3) 596 2438 E AmazonHdmiService: Settings client binder died.
Seeing that there were some issues with the HDMI display (Display device change to built-In screen? and HDMI turned off?), I used the screengrab to navigate my way to display settings which wouldn't allow me to change resolution
So to sum it up...
Everything is loading and running correctly, however I can't get an image over HDMI only by getting screengrabs via ADBlink.
Maybe something on the chip (HDMI output) is damaged, I've had the stick for a while and it's had heavy usage, or something has stuck in a toggled state.
I don't know....
If anyone has any ideas how to test it I have full root access via TWRP and probably can get it over ADB, so any help or commands to try would greatly appreciated....
Thanks :good:
tinybilbo said:
Sorry to double-post...
However I wanted to add this as a separate post rather than an edit.
After playing with my firestick for a few days, during which I tried a working backup and erasing from the bootloader and then restoring multiple images (stock and prerooted), as well running the exploit again.
I realised that the OS was loading (I regained ADB after the full restore) despite not giving an image over HDMI (just a black screen).
I was about to give up when I happened to be going through the options in ADBLink and I found the screenshot button.
I gave it a try and to my surprise it sent back an image of the stick with a working OS/screen.
I even manged to navigate through the settings and do a full reset from within FireOS by taking screengrabs.
After the reset it still gave a black screen, I re-enabled ADB from TWRP and was able to verify that it had reset correctly...
From ADB I ran a logcat...
I'm not really familiar with logcat but a couple of things seemed to jump out...
Code:
1) 596 617 I DisplayManagerService: Display device changed: DisplayDeviceInfo{"Built-in Screen": uniqueId="local:0", 720 x 480, modeId 4, defaultModeId 1, supportedModes [{id=1, width=1920, height=1080, fps=60.000004}, {id=2, width=1920, height=1080, fps=59.94}, {id=3, width=720, height=576, fps=50.0}, {id=4, width=720, height=480, fps=60.000004}], colorMode 0, supportedColorModes [0], HdrCapabilities [email protected], density 320, 213.0 x 216.0 dpi, appVsyncOff 1000000, presDeadline 16666666, touch INTERNAL, rotation 0, type BUILT_IN, state ON, FLAG_DEFAULT_DISPLAY, FLAG_SECURE, FLAG_SUPPORTS_PROTECTED_BUFFERS}
2) 1145 1145 I AmazonHdmiServiceManager: resolution applied and hdmi turned off
3) 596 2438 E AmazonHdmiService: Settings client binder died.
Seeing that there were some issues with the HDMI display (Display device change to built-In screen? and HDMI turned off?), I used the screengrab to navigate my way to display settings which wouldn't allow me to change resolution
So to sum it up...
Everything is loading and running correctly, however I can't get an image over HDMI only by getting screengrabs via ADBlink.
Maybe something on the chip (HDMI output) is damaged, I've had the stick for a while and it's had heavy usage, or something has stuck in a toggled state.
I don't know....
If anyone has any ideas how to test it I have full root access via TWRP and probably can get it over ADB, so any help or commands to try would greatly appreciated....
Thanks :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just checking, but have you tried another HDMI cable and different TV? Somehow it is not recognizing the format in the OS. TWRP uses a lower format i believe. I have had a power surge before damaging HDMI here, but I wouldn't get anything with it plugged in.
Michajin said:
Just checking, but have you tried another HDMI cable and different TV? Somehow it is not recognizing the format in the OS. TWRP uses a lower format i believe. I have had a power surge before damaging HDMI here, but I wouldn't get anything with it plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Michajin,
Thanks for your reply...
Yes I have tried multiple TV's, Monitors , and cables... Including the TV that it had been running on for almost a year...
I get frequent powercuts where I live, and often power surges when the power comes back on...
I do use surge protectors, however they don't always work....
One time the electricity board double one of the phases to 440v and knocked out £5k worth of equipment!
So between that and the humidity I think there is some minor damage to the stick... shame because it's still running.
I'm going to see if I can get a logcat from TWRP and see what it says about the HDMI output, not that it'll help...
tinybilbo said:
Hi Michajin,
Thanks for your reply...
Yes I have tried multiple TV's, Monitors , and cables... Including the TV that it had been running on for almost a year...
I get frequent powercuts where I live, and often power surges when the power comes back on...
I do use surge protectors, however they don't always work....
One time the electricity board double one of the phases to 440v and knocked out £5k worth of equipment!
So between that and the humidity I think there is some minor damage to the stick... shame because it's still running.
I'm going to see if I can get a logcat from TWRP and see what it says about the HDMI output, not that it'll help...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you get a display in TWRP, but go black after booting? I wonder if you can force whatever display mode and setting as used in TWRP as your display mode in FireOS. Had you tried another wall outlet (higher mA) ? A long shot at this point that you havent tried it....
Michajin said:
So you get a display in TWRP, but go black after booting? I wonder if you can force whatever display mode and setting as used in TWRP as your display mode in FireOS. Had you tried another wall outlet (higher mA) ? A long shot at this point that you havent tried it....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct, I can get a display with TWRP, but it goes black when it boots into FireOS (from which I can get screengrab via adblink of the stick displaying FireOS or whatever app is running).
Up until now (for almost a year) I've just used the power adapter that came with the stick, but it's a good idea to try something more powerful (I have a 2.4a one that I'll try a little later).
Another thing I'm going to try is "adb shell wm size ***x***" "adb shell wm density ***" command to change the resolution & pixel density (I think).
I hadn't thought about power being an issue up until you mentioned it (because so far it hasn't been), but maybe a component has (or is) failed (or failing) so it might need more power...
I can't try until a little later this evening, but at least I have something to try now cheers! I'll let you know how I get on....
tinybilbo said:
Correct, I can get a display with TWRP, but it goes black when it boots into FireOS (from which I can get screengrab via adblink of the stick displaying FireOS or whatever app is running).
Up until now (for almost a year) I've just used the power adapter that came with the stick, but it's a good idea to try something more powerful (I have a 2.4a one that I'll try a little later).
Another thing I'm going to try is "adb shell wm size ***x***" "adb shell wm density ***" command to change the resolution & pixel density (I think).
I hadn't thought about power being an issue up until you mentioned it (because so far it hasn't been), but maybe a component has (or is) failed (or failing) so it might need more power...
I can't try until a little later this evening, but at least I have something to try now cheers! I'll let you know how I get on....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey I have a debloated clean stable rom that will be available soon. You can try that and you need to be sure to have either a usb otg or a hub for transferring this backup which will be titled ftvs4kdebloatedv1.0. Paste this folder to TWRP/BACKUPS/YOUR SERIAL #/ftvs4kdebloatedv1.0.
Skel40 said:
Hey I have a debloated clean stable rom that will be available soon. You can try that and you need to be sure to have either a usb otg or a hub for transferring this backup which will be titled ftvs4kdebloatedv1.0. Paste this folder to TWRP/BACKUPS/YOUR SERIAL #/ftvs4kdebloatedv1.0.
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Thanks Skel40
I'll definitely give the clean rom a go
I have an OTG & Hub and the serial number already
hi guys
i have a firestick 2th gen model ly78pr its brick stock on logo , the problem is usb debbug was off and i tried with the key board and otg cable pressing alt + printscreen + i and it does not work as , i tried different combination and nothing help , also i connected to the pc and it does not work with adb it doesnt reconize , if anyone can help to find any solution
Hey everyone!
I ordered an Amazon Fire TV Stick 4K (E9L29Y) the other day to replace my older Fire device as it's been showing its age; however, when it was delivered that morning and I woke up and checked for the package, it wasn't there. I immediately ran to Amazon support to explain the situation and they ended up refunding me. Before this, I asked one of my roommates if they took the package inside by chance and they said they didn't, but I later confronted them again and they put it on the table. Crazy, right? So it didn't cross my mind that this device would now become unusable since it was refunded and I've learned that it's been marked as "lost/stolen" by Amazon and cannot be setup. I realized this when I connected it to my TV and can't get past the initial update screen.
So, now I'm learning that it can be rooted and bypassed with TWRP using this guide here which I follow.
I install FireISO onto a USB and get Kamakiri copied over and I run the .sh script and get it to the point where it's waiting for me to connect the stick with the pin shorted (I used aluminum foil). I've tried this multiple times even readjusting where I short the pin. Every time I think I'm doing it correctly, I get this error:
serial protocol mismatch expected 0000 got 2001
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Is there anything I should be doing differently or am I out of luck?
itsmidnightyo said:
Hey everyone!
I ordered an Amazon Fire TV Stick 4K (E9L29Y) the other day to replace my older Fire device as it's been showing its age; however, when it was delivered that morning and I woke up and checked for the package, it wasn't there. I immediately ran to Amazon support to explain the situation and they ended up refunding me. Before this, I asked one of my roommates if they took the package inside by chance and they said they didn't, but I later confronted them again and they put it on the table. Crazy, right? So it didn't cross my mind that this device would now become unusable since it was refunded and I've learned that it's been marked as "lost/stolen" by Amazon and cannot be setup. I realized this when I connected it to my TV and can't get past the initial update screen.
So, now I'm learning that it can be rooted and bypassed with TWRP using this guide here which I follow.
I install FireISO onto a USB and get Kamakiri copied over and I run the .sh script and get it to the point where it's waiting for me to connect the stick with the pin shorted (I used aluminum foil). I've tried this multiple times even readjusting where I short the pin. Every time I think I'm doing it correctly, I get this error:
Is there anything I should be doing differently or am I out of luck?
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Click to collapse
Is 4K unused?
If so, you can take it out of the box, connect it to your PC immediately, and install TWRP with "FIREISO" and "kamakiri". (Short not required in most cases)
If you have connected to the TV and connected to the Internet before installing TWRP, it may have been updated and you may not be able to install TWRP.
As long as you can install TWRP, even if it is blacklisted, you can use it by deleting /system/priv-app/com.amazon.tv.oobe in TWRP.
cityhunter_1919_xyz said:
Is 4K unused?
If so, you can take it out of the box, connect it to your PC immediately, and install TWRP with "FIREISO" and "kamakiri". (Short not required in most cases)
If you have connected to the TV and connected to the Internet before installing TWRP, it may have been updated and you may not be able to install TWRP.
As long as you can install TWRP, even if it is blacklisted, you can use it by deleting /system/priv-app/com.amazon.tv.oobe in TWRP.
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Click to collapse
I connected it to the TV and I assume it updated already hence the error. When it was bought, I had it set to already connect to the internet and link to my Amazon account.