Hi guys! Ofesad here from Argentina.
First a litte history: I had a Sony XBR55X805E (android tv) until january. Was killed by a electric surge.
Since then I dont have a TV.
So, yesterday I got a TCL 55" C715 QLED. Picture looks nice, however I have been finding problems all around that I cant seem to find a solution.
First, the most important one: NO AUDIO on ARC.
I have a Yamaha RXV-673 (Dolby+ and DTS, no Atmos). The TV "sees" it as an input device. I can see the receiver menus when I select the HDMI 1 on the tv.
I have try'd changing a lot of things and never saw it as a output device. Even changed the hdmi cable and port (in case of mislabeling), no change.
Of course I tested the receiver with another source and it works perfectly, as it always did with the Sony.
Second, the HDMI-CEC doesnt seem to work.
I plugged my PS4 in HDMI2. Enabled HDMI CEC support. Same on the TV.
Turned everything off.
Turned PS4 On using it's joystick. TV stays off.
------
Also tryd turning everything off. Turning TV on. Select Input HDMI2 and the PS4 doesnt turn on.
Both devices used to work PERFECTLY my Sony with the features mentioned.
So, I ask on any advice on this matter.
The new TV seems nice enough but with all this issues it feels quite... "incomplete". Like a "demo" version.
I dont know what to think.
I am really considering returning it unless I can find the solution to this problems.
Thank you for reading and your advices.
Ofesad.
Same problem on tcl 55c735 and apple tv 4k . Cec don’t turn on tv but turn off . Same problem with 50c735 too. Tv bought in France. Try reinstalling on the 50c735 adviced by TCL and do nothing. Worked with my old Samsung TV. I tried other input and and another hdmi cable and don’t work
This is the recommended power up sequence to reduce and solve any handshake issues...
1. Power-off all equipment (At the wall socket).
2. Ensure all Cables, Splitters, Switches, Extenders are connected within the HDMI Distribution Network.
3. Power on all Splitters, Switches, Extenders within HDMI Distribution Network.
4. Power on all displays and set to HDMI input from HDMI Distribution Network (Source device need to be able to contact display to retrieve EDID information)
5. Power on Sources / Players. Ensure that a path is open from source to display for HDCP handshake negotiation by selecting the proper input on HDMI Switches or HDMI switch/splitter combo’s via the remote control (Sources negotiates HDCP Handshake via HDMI Network to displays which is set to HDMI input to respond to handshake).
Some displays will negotiate HDCP handshake / timing better if the source are already powered on and you may need to change points 3,4,5 above to 4,3,5 or 4,5,3 depending on your equipment.
Related
Can someone make kernel or tell me how to do this, maybe thru some kind of converter or something like that?
1080p/24Hz is chopy for games so maybe this can be done by software or hardware fix??
There is similar kernel but for One S so I belive this can be done for note 2.
Pls help this is realy big issue for mhl/tv output and i didnt find any solution on web how to make this happen on note 2.
I'm to having same issue.
Choppy with the dock. My GNex works so smoothly compared and it's half the phone although it is rooted.
I'd be very excited to known if a custom kernel can fix this. I've posted something similar already in this thread.
Cheers guys.
Sent from LV-426...
I hope for the fix to, it a shame that this isnt implemented like and option in stock software. One again please devs or anybody help us with this problem :crying:
Going to try to fix this thru vga pc because in my tv manual says I can select resolution myself thru this input (RGB PC only).
Maybe you too can do something with this.
Well i cant post links so this is what I will test with my Note2:
RED Galaxy S3 SIII i9300 i9308 MHL Micro USB 11pin to HDTV HDMI
HDMI Female to Female F/F Coupler Extender Adapter Connector
Gold HDTV HDMI to VGA HD15 3 RCA Adapter Cable 5ft
When tested will report here... still hoping for kernel modification of some kind...
I have a N7100 and a smart dock this has been my experience:
HDMI -> DVI adapter plugged into a Dell U2312HM via DVI (HDCP compliant):
- Stuck at 720x480 resolution no matter what.
- When mouse and external display is connected there is a drop in frame rate. However, if the mouse OR the external display are connected seperately the FPS remains high.
HDMI cable to my 26" Westinghouse 1080P TV (HDCP compliant but constantly has handshaking issues):
- Appears to display at 1080p or at least scaled up 720p though I set my TV in 1:1 and there are no black bars so I suspect 1080p.
- When mouse and external display is connected there is a drop in frame rate. However, if the mouse OR the external display are connected seperately the FPS remains high.
It seems that there is a bug in the code that has to do with when the phone enters that "desktop mode." There also seems to be a bug when using an adapter for some reason as well. The N7100 seems to act completely differently than my PS3. My PS3 connects wonderfully using the same adapter and the same Dell monitor, no handshaking issues. Though my PS3 to get sound out of the TV's speakers I have to mute and then unmute the TV to get sound anytime the HDMI link is closed and then reopened (starting a game for example). While it seems the N7100 behaves oppositely.
Update on my Gold HDTV HDMI to VGA HD15 3 RCA Adapter Cable 5ft combination is not working the device dont check connection thru hdmi rgb input (no signal or notification of connection). So I belive only hdmi input/output works with note 2. Once again pls help us regarding this option to lock device on 720p output thru hdmi.
man i really need this force 720p playback option as well...
Hey everybody,
I don't have my Fire TV (the launch in Germany is still 2.5 weeks away) but I do have a question.. at least temporarily I'd like to connect it to an older monitor of mine which only has DVI input (I don't own an actual TV at the moment.. well, a tube tv set for my SNES ). I do have an HDMI->DVI cable but I just realized that I won't get any sound this way.. and since the speaker I want to use don't have optical input I have to find another way to connect those. One option would be a digital-analog converter (like this one, for example: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digi...-Audio-Converter-Adapter-DHTV/2032388430.html) but someone mentioned that it's possible that the Fire TV works with regular USB sound cards which would be cheaper and not require yet another power plug and a bunch of cables.
I realize it's not an optimal setup at all, bus as I said, it's temporary. Has anyone tried this or maybe have a cheap usb sound card lying around they'd be willing to test for me? Tried the search function but didn't get any results.
kind regards
jpde said:
Hey everybody,
I don't have my Fire TV (the launch in Germany is still 2.5 weeks away) but I do have a question.. at least temporarily I'd like to connect it to an older monitor of mine which only has DVI input (I don't own an actual TV at the moment.. well, a tube tv set for my SNES ). I do have an HDMI->DVI cable but I just realized that I won't get any sound this way.. and since the speaker I want to use don't have optical input I have to find another way to connect those. One option would be a digital-analog converter (like this one, for example: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digi...-Audio-Converter-Adapter-DHTV/2032388430.html) but someone mentioned that it's possible that the Fire TV works with regular USB sound cards which would be cheaper and not require yet another power plug and a bunch of cables.
I realize it's not an optimal setup at all, bus as I said, it's temporary. Has anyone tried this or maybe have a cheap usb sound card lying around they'd be willing to test for me? Tried the search function but didn't get any results.
kind regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't even bother using an external DAC connected to the optical out if you re planning
to use an HDMI to DVI adapter. I, and a few others, have discovered out that the FireTV does
not support HDMI to DVI because of HDCP. Amazon video content will not display on the monitor
at all, and video from XBMC results in many dropped frames and video instability. You will also
not get any sound out of the optical. The only way to get around this is to find an HDMI splitter
or switch which will emulate HDCP, and that will cost.
Saying that, I would assume that the same would happen with USB audio (if supported), although
I have not tried it myself.
Thank you for the quick reply, it was just in time to cancel the order I placed for a cheap toslink-rca adapter
Will I at least be able to set up and tinker with the Fire TV? If I can't use it properly at my own place until I get an actual TV I thought I might give it to my mum for the time being, but I wanted to set it up first cause she probably won't be able to do that
jpde said:
Thank you for the quick reply, it was just in time to cancel the order I placed for a cheap toslink-rca adapter
Will I at least be able to set up and tinker with the Fire TV? If I can't use it properly at my own place until I get an actual TV I thought I might give it to my mum for the time being, but I wanted to set it up first cause she probably won't be able to do that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes... it still makes a nice box to tinker with. That's what I did before
getting a HDMI switch to bypass the audio issue with DVI. You just
won't get any audio and video playback will be unstable to non-existent,
depending on the source. However, all the FTV menus will still display
fine, and so will games and other apps.
The only other thing to note is that since video will not display properly,
you will not see the opening video when you first activate your FTV:
you will get a blank screen. This made me think that I had issues with
the device and that it had crashed, but you really have to just wait through
it. However, I don't know what repercussions this may have on activating
your device if you are trying to avoid the automatic updates to non-rootable
firmware versions during initial setup.
I'd assume it's going to ship with new recent firmware, but thanks for the heads up, I'll set it up at work then, there I've got access to a display with HDMI input
edit:
Or I'll just block the firmware update thingie at home, following these instructions.
Any news on USB audio?
Did someone try XBMC and USB audio out? I have a pure Digi Amp and like to have volume control. I assume optical out is without volume control...
Cheers,
Andy
When I first got the stick I connected it to HDMI-1 on my Panasonic Plasma to do some testing, I later permanently moved it to one of the HDMI ports on my Pioneer receiver. The receiver connects to the TV via HDMI-2 where ARC is. The problem is that when I switch the receiver to the Fire TV input the TV automatically gets switched to HDMI-1 where nothing is connected, this also happens when FireTV gets out of sleep mode. I have to switch the TV back to HDMI-2. I am assuming that the FireTV is doing this via CEC. I have a Chromecast, Roku, SageTV and a PC connected to the receiver and none of them exhibit this behavior.
I rebooted multiple times but id does not help. I can disable CEC on the TV or Receiver but then I loose ARC so that is not an option. Any ideas on how to fix this?
farfromuman said:
When I first got the stick I connected it to HDMI-1 on my Panasonic Plasma to do some testing, I later permanently moved it to one of the HDMI ports on my Pioneer receiver. The receiver connects to the TV via HDMI-2 where ARC is. The problem is that when I switch the receiver to the Fire TV input the TV automatically gets switched to HDMI-1 where nothing is connected, this also happens when FireTV gets out of sleep mode. I have to switch the TV back to HDMI-2. I am assuming that the FireTV is doing this via CEC. I have a Chromecast, Roku, SageTV and a PC connected to the receiver and none of them exhibit this behavior.
I rebooted multiple times but id does not help. I can disable CEC on the TV or Receiver but then I loose ARC so that is not an option. Any ideas on how to fix this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a way to disable cec on rooted firetv’s but the easier way to fix this is to completely shut down the whole setup and hopefully the firetv will resync back to the correct input.
navigates said:
There is a way to disable cec on rooted firetv’s but the easier way to fix this is to completely shut down the whole setup and hopefully the firetv will resync back to the correct input.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unplugged everything and it seemed to be fixed but the next day it is back to switching my TV to HDMI 1 on its own.
farfromuman said:
Unplugged everything and it seemed to be fixed but the next day it is back to switching my TV to HDMI 1 on its own.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably more of an issue with your tv .. possibly receiver. Is there a firmware update for your tv?
cec less adaptor
i had conflict on my Samsung tv with other cec devices and the best way around it i got a cec less adaptor for the hdmi cable plugged into the AFTV this stops the AFTV conflicting with your other devices as thats what it sounds like it is doing like mine was
only downside it will not auto channel switch when waking AFTV from sleep
HeXDeMoN said:
Probably more of an issue with your tv .. possibly receiver. Is there a firmware update for your tv?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
since the firetv likes to go back to hdmi1. why not switch your hdmi's to give it input 1?
navigates said:
since the firetv likes to go back to hdmi1. why not switch your hdmi's to give it input 1?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes that would seem logical but the ARC is on HDMI2 so I would have to run an additional cable back to the Receiver. I switched to the FireTV Box and it works fine without interfering with my TV's HDMI inputs. The stick will go to the second TV in the house and if it has an issue there I will do a full reset.
Similar issue here with receiver (Denon X2000) switching to TV input (Samsung UN60F6350) in 1-2 seconds after I manually switch the input to Fire TV (box, not stick). This behavior developed over past 1-2 weeks or so, before I've been using Fire TV with no issues.
After setting HDMI control to "OFF" in receiver's Video settings it stopped switching, so my theory is that somehow my "smart" TV sends activation signal to the receiver and makes it switch. This is similar to any HDMI device starting to play, except in this case looks like TV keeps sending that signal constantly.
A quick fix, but annoying, is to just unplug the HDMI cable from the Fire TV box or Fire stick. I have had these devices for a long time and never had a problem until a few months ago. It is annoying! Every (about 30 minutes...almost like it was on a timer of sorts) time I am watching my DirecTV cable box HDMI input, it will just switch to the HDMI input that the Fire TV box (or Fire TV stick) is on. SO it has to be something that the Amazon box is sending out through the HDMI cable to the TV that causes the HDMI input to change. AMAZON needs to send out an update that eliminates that problem because it HAS TO BE in their software coding. As BIG of a problem as this is, you would think that they would have fixed this already. There are many other streaming boxes out there now that are much better, cheaper, and do not have issues like this. They stand to lose a ton of future dollars if they don't fix this problem. I have invested in 6 boxes for the 6 TV's in my home. They need to do something about this!!
My Fire TV gen1 can't be used in headless mode. It is connected to my beamer via HDMI and to my receiver via S/PDIF. The sound is heavily distorted when no HDMI device is connected or when the device is in standby. When I turn my beamer on, the sound is restored to normal immediately and stays that way even if the beamer is switched off again up to the next power cycle/reboot of the FTV. Did anyone observe similar behavior and has any idea for a fix? I already tried all available sound settings in the Fire TV, unfortunately.
Well, just for your information or if anyone encounters a similar problem: it does not work. The box needs an HDMI handshake or most likely an identified display once after reboot to play music. It is the same with the Fire TV 2. A HDMI-to S/PDIF converter or a switch do not seem to provide a solution. My workaround: the box is not disconnected from power and thus not rebooted when my other equipment is powered down. Works like a charm but wastes ~26 kW of power per year.
Hello folks. Hope someone with more knowledge will read this and be able to help me.
I have aftv 1 connected to a sharp TV via hdmi cable (hdmi 3 input on TV) and via optical to a Philips sound bar. I have two small dogs and like to leave a radio station on for them when i am away. The problem is that when i turn off the TV, the audio to the sound bar starts breaking up. The only solution that i have found so far is to change the hdmi input on the TV and turn the TV off. It seems that the aftv 1 senses the hdmi cable and tries to send the audio to the TV even when it's turned off. Does anyone have a solution to this or a similar experience. As far as i know the aftv 1 ui does not have an option to choose which output ( hdmi or optical) carries the audio.
I'm not 100% certain, but your issue may be caused by the fact that the Fire TV basically becomes unusable if not connected to an HDMI device which support HDCP. If the TV is off, the Fire TV may be sensing that no HDMI connection is present (and therefore no HDCP) and disables all output, including audio. Not certain if this would work, but does your soundbar have HDMI input and passthrough? If so, try plugging the Fire TV into the soundbar and then the HDMI out from the soundbar to your TV.
Thank you for the reply
Unfortunately only hdmi output on the sound bar. No hdmi input.
My aftv1 has kodi playing music over digital optical out, regardless if connected to "an HDMI device which support HDCP " or NOT connected to anything over hdmi.
Thank you for your response
I am not trying to make kodi work. I use iHearT radio app and that's where the problem is.