GAMEPAD
1. Download the update file « update.img » to your PC.
2. Connect the USB cable to your Archos and your computer.
3. Copy the « update.img » to the root of the Internal Storage. Do not place it into any folder of the Archos, just to the root level of the device.
4. Unplug your device of the PC.
5. The Archos will find the update automatically and display a message box offering to install this new firmware. Before tapping on "Install", you need to connect the charger/adapter DC-IN to your device.
http://update.archos.com/10/gamepad/update.img
cajl said:
GAMEPAD
1. Download the update file « update.img » to your PC.
2. Connect the USB cable to your Archos and your computer.
3. Copy the « update.img » to the root of the Internal Storage. Do not place it into any folder of the Archos, just to the root level of the device.
4. Unplug your device of the PC.
5. The Archos will find the update automatically and display a message box offering to install this new firmware. Before tapping on "Install", you need to connect the charger/adapter DC-IN to your device.
http://update.archos.com/10/gamepad/update.img
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This update seems to have fixed the diagonals issue as well as the button combos. System seems less laggy as well but I need longer to confirm.
gamepad update
I'm unable to update via my PC. It keeps asking me which programming I wish to open/save with. Any recommendations would be most appreciated, as this gamepad sounds as glitchy as everyone elses
marbrut said:
I'm unable to update via my PC. It keeps asking me which programming I wish to open/save with. Any recommendations would be most appreciated, as this gamepad sounds as glitchy as everyone elses
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're not meant to run it on your PC. Just copy it to the gamepad.
Jonnyapps said:
You're not meant to run it on your PC. Just copy it to the gamepad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes; however I've tried downloading it direct to the tablet (won't let me move or open the download), I've tried downloading to PC to then attach the tablet for the update (no good). I'm missing something basic in the process e.g. the program I'm downloading the update with etc.
marbrut said:
Yes; however I've tried downloading it direct to the tablet (won't let me move or open the download), I've tried downloading to PC to then attach the tablet for the update (no good). I'm missing something basic in the process e.g. the program I'm downloading the update with etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just downloaded through Chrome on the tablet then used the ARCHOS file manager app that is installed to move it from the downloads folder to the top level folder.
Thanks jonnyapps, it worked. Now all we need is another update to resolve the SD issue!
People, please start posting here so the Archos Gamepad but also the Elements line to have a separate forum
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=36189651#post36189651
TCL dont want to help fix this issues when i contact them with this issues they just tell me buy a TV frome another brand if am not happy with TCL.
This issues was direclty out of box never rooted it, so this problie is becouse of a systemapp some is pre-installed had not this issues with my old 2017 TCL Android TV.
And i dont get any help frome TCL for get the adb and stuff i need to try fix this on a TV, on a phone feels like mutch easer becouse i have cabel everything but they dosent relly even send with a cabel on a TV for do some adb.
So i think ask here see if i can get help frome the communty to fix this.
can you actually go in recovery mode? hold power button on the TV for a bit (led starts blinking).
edit: btw i managed to root my ep680 (android 9) and i never got something like that...
fuqi said:
can you actually go in recovery mode? hold power button on the TV for a bit (led starts blinking).
edit: btw i managed to root my ep680 (android 9) and i never got something like that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has ben doing a recovery reset of the TV with a new download file frome tcl webpages, and used the powerbutton on the TV for flash the OS frome scratch again.
The only thing its was going was to create a dubbel device into my Google Play Device list, after that was finnish noting mutch else happens.
try this one : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yNQ6myjzFEapBa4KM2eNHoaGiJiAIqHw/view?usp=sharing
extract the rar and put the Update.img on a usb stick. Reboot in Recovery Mode.
fuqi said:
try this one : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yNQ6myjzFEapBa4KM2eNHoaGiJiAIqHw/view?usp=sharing
extract the rar and put the Update.img on a usb stick. Reboot in Recovery Mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will try it, becouse this fil i have frome TCL webpages only is V8-R851T02-LF1V179, this look like to be 187 returning back after trying it.
Edit: done the update now still the same issues.
wow thats strange... because this is a different update file > deletes everything (factory restore image)
i guess the only thing you can do is debug via serial cable....
fuqi said:
wow thats strange... because this is a different update file > deletes everything (factory restore image)
i guess the only thing you can do is debug via serial cable....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have order one, get it on like 16th, its still far away. But am return when am get the cabel.
what cable did u order?
you know debug on this tv is via hdmi 2 port?
fuqi said:
what cable did u order?
you know debug on this tv is via hdmi 2 port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB Type A to USB Type A its that connection i have.
fuqi said:
what cable did u order?
you know debug on this tv is via hdmi 2 port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That i did not know, cold you write the steps for debug on this device?
USB A to A does not work. I ordered myself one
First of all. Can you even go in the Engineering Menu? Settings > Picture > Advanced Settings > Brightness Settings > Contrast (just be there) and Press 1950 on the Remote
see Pictures
edit: there's also a picture from my "ghetto" setup using a raspberry pi2
fuqi said:
USB A to A does not work. I ordered myself one
First of all. Can you even go in the Engineering Menu? Settings > Picture > Advanced Settings > Brightness Settings > Contrast (just be there) and Press 1950 on the Remote
see Pictures
edit: there's also a picture from my "ghetto" setup using a raspberry pi2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not anymore am just pack it down and send it back to the retailers, was feeling like easer go buy me a Sony ZG9 and skip all the issues, at the same time am upgraded frome a 4K to a 8K TV.
recovery , root
fuqi said:
can you actually go in recovery mode? hold power button on the TV for a bit (led starts blinking).
edit: btw i managed to root my ep680 (android 9) and i never got something like that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, can you tell us how to root tcl ep680?
When I press and hold power it enter briefly in a screen with a dead android - no command , and after that it continues booting.
you need a hdmi to uart cable.
if you need more infos just ask
I have only usb to usb cable , I can enter in service menu , and I have acces via adb-wifi. My tv is 55ep660 but it look very similar as platform it is also rt2851.
i'm pretty sure there is "Service Port" written on your HDMI 2 Port ?
USB Cable won't work at all. Trust me.
fuqi said:
i'm pretty sure there is "Service Port" written on your HDMI 2 Port ?
USB Cable won't work at all. Trust me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it is , I am just asking about the steps , anyway how does it look a hdmi to uart ( rs232 maybe ) cable?
mihaianti said:
Yes it is , I am just asking about the steps , anyway how does it look a hdmi to uart ( rs232 maybe ) cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you need to make a cable (urself, there is none to buy on the internet) with the shematics in the picture.
to communicate with the tv u need either a raspberry pi (or clone) or a usb to serial device with a ftdi chip.
i highly recommand a raspberry pi.
so the best way is to get a hdmi breakout board from amazon. (see picture)
then you can access a root shell via recovery and modify the system. but first you need to disable SELinux and AVB.
Disable AVB took me forever to figure out. Because if it's enabled all changes will be overwritten on every boot. There is no way magisk will work on this TV.
The Boot file gets written to the partition from a encrypted AES file on every boot.
fuqi said:
you need to make a cable (urself, there is none to buy on the internet) with the shematics in the picture.
to communicate with the tv u need either a raspberry pi (or clone) or a usb to serial device with a ftdi chip.
i highly recommand a raspberry pi.
so the best way is to get a hdmi breakout board from amazon. (see picture)
then you can access a root shell via recovery and modify the system. but first you need to disable SELinux and AVB.
Disable AVB took me forever to figure out. Because if it's enabled all changes will be overwritten on every boot. There is no way magisk will work on this TV.
The Boot file gets written to the partition from a encrypted AES file on every boot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok , thank you!
it can not download.......
fuqi said:
i'm pretty sure there is "Service Port" written on your HDMI 2 Port ?
USB Cable won't work at all. Trust me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please @fuqi, if there's a way, could you please show us how we could wire HDMI to USB connection so I could install an update since HDMI is the service port and whatever image I put in USB it doesn't work.
Basically I want to downgrade from rbox's pre-rooted version 5.2.7.2_r1 back to 5.2.6.3_r1.
I use ADB via Windows 10 with no problems, I've access to SU, FireTV is rooted and TWRP 3.0.0.7 is installed.
In the past I would just boot into TWRP recovery and select any of rbox' pre-rooted rom and hit install/upgrade and all went well since 2016.
This is the first time trying to downgrade, TWRP recovery went well 5.2.6.3_r1 got installed, but no way to login into my Amazon A/C (kept saying login/password combinations not correct, but they were 100% correct).
One thing interesting is before I could see my bootloader as fully unlocked as "[email protected]", but now I see its only partial unlocked ([email protected])?
Update:
It seems like I do have rooo#bueller? from this picture after typing adb shell and su?
Any help will be much appreciated!
In regards to your original post on the bueller thread - have you tried re-enabling updates? A few other members here found that disabling updates on their sloane (see here) stopped them from using particular apps on 5.2.7.2 until they re-enabled updates, allowed the Fire TV to download updated apk files & then disabled them again
If that doesn't work: I had a Fire TV recently that I thought it was blacklisted by Amazon (wouldn't log in with the correct details), but turns out it was just never registered as a AFTV on their end & was being refused a connection. This obviously won't be your case, but something similar could be happening, so I would suggest you remove the device from your account (here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/hz/mycd/myx#/home/devices/1) & then attempt to log in again - if this doesn't work, maybe talk to Amazon via their live chat, ask them to register your device to your account manually (they'll happily do it) & attempt login again after a hour or two (that worked for me).
edit: I've just seen your latest post about bricking - general rule of thumb (as far as I'm aware) is that anything after 5.2.6.8 shouldn't be rolled back to pre-5.2.6.8 due to changes within the partitions, therefore, if you do so, you essentially brick your device after reboot as the prerooted zip only flashes boot/preloader/LK, then at boot, the rpmb checks to see if all those files match & when they don't, sends the device into a bootloop. If this was a Fire TV 2, you'd be in luck, but unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any way to unbrick a Fire TV 1 on the latest software yet?
If you're bootloader unlocked, you might be able to get into fastboot & fix it from there, but I'm not clued up on the Fire TV 1 bl unlock unfortunately.
DanielF50 said:
I've just seen your latest post about bricking - general rule of thumb (as far as I'm aware) is that anything after 5.2.6.8 shouldn't be rolled back to pre-5.2.6.8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Completely right for the second gen fireTV :good:
But the first gen fireTV isn't a MTK SOC device, the SOC is from broadcom with different booting stages. In case of a rooted box, you can up- & downgrade to any fireOS 5 version if you like.
DanielF50 said:
there doesn't seem to be any way to unbrick a Fire TV 1 on the latest software yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a way, but it requires hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron) and at least some soldering skills.
DanielF50 said:
If you're bootloader unlocked, you might be able to get into fastboot & fix it from there, but I'm not clued up on the Fire TV 1 bl unlock unfortunately.[/B]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some guys have tried it, it's all in the bueller prerooted rom thread.
Hi Daniel, thanks for taking the time to write.
Yes my bootloader is fully unlocked, and my unit is rooted with TWRP installed.
Hi Sus_i, where are you at? If you can try the "hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron)" thing on my FireTV, I will compensate you for your time and ship the unit to you (I'm near the border, so US/CAN addresses are fine with me).
Ok, this is what happened in my case:
My FireTV 1 background - bought directly from Amazon, rooted back in 2015/2016, bootloader fully unlocked and TWRP installed in 2017.
1) Was running on rbox's pre-rooted 5.2.6.3_r1
2) Updated to rbox's 5.2.7.2_r1 and discovered that upon resuming/waking up from sleep the unit always return to the Home page instead of whatever page/Tab you left it as in 5.2.6.3_r1, also Alexa and few other APPS were automatically installed in 5.2.7.2_r1.
I only use 4 APPS on my FireTV, an APK from my IPTV (90 %), VLC to watch videos from my own local Network (5%), CX_File Explorer to move/transfer files (3%) and NewPipe (alternative to YouTube) (2%).
rbox’s pre-rooted 5.2.6.3_r1 is perfect for my needs above, as I NEVER need to see the Amazon Home screen or any ads. Only the 1st time after a power off/on that I would ever see the Home page and from there on I would navigate to the “Settings” Tab – “Applications” Tab – “Manage Applications” and I only see a few pre-installed APPS from Amazon and my 4 APPS above and going to sleep mode and waking up sleep mode always stays in the “Manage Applications” Tab and NOT Amazon Home page as in 5.2.7.2_r1.
3) Flashing back from 5.2.7.2_r1 to 5.2.6.3_r1/5.2.7.0_r1/5.2.6.9_r1 to no avail because I would always get an error stating Login ID/password combinations were in errors (Login ID/password were 100% dead correct), also the Developer Options would also no longer showing under My Device/My FireTV Tab. Amazon FireTV support would be quick to add the FireTV under my profile (because they could see I bought it directly from them back in 2014 and they also could see my serial numbers and all along I was the only one registered for this unit), but still no go, so I tried to de-register/re-register again during all the testing and Amazon must had added the FireTV to my profile at least 10 times and in the end it escalated to the point they credited my account $25.00 (this is usually the price of the FireTV Stick 4K during sales/promotions) and also at the same time sent out a FireTV Stick 4K to me FOC.
I’m not a FireTV expert, but just an ordinary user with some sys/programming backgrounds during my early years. I reckon Amazon must had implemented some sort of hard coded checks either on their side (registration) or in the firmware since 5.2.6.3_r1.
4) So now my unit is flashed with 5.2.6.3_r1 and couldn’t get passed the registration screen, what do I do? I re-flash it to 5.2.7.2_r1 and bingo, everything is back to normal again and don’t even need to register the unit. (For testing purposes, I removed my A/C from the unit and re-register again and this time Login ID/password got no errors).
5) Thinking that back from Windows 98SE/2000/XP Pro/W7 Pro and now Windows 10 Pro, no matter what kind of messed I created, I would just format the drive/write zeros and re-image (Ghost image Back-ups) and everything would be normal again. My fireTV is rooted, bootloader is fully unlocked and TWRP installed, I told myself what’s there to afraid of , so I tried to re-flash 5.2.7.2_r1 to 5.2.6.3_r1/5.2.7.0_r1 and it would always back to the registration error and now double icons under settings, lol.
6) I suspect during one of the re-flash I made a mistake of after clearing/wipe Cache/Dalvik, instead of the default reboot, I ESC back out and redo the install/re-flash thinking that might get rids of all the leftovers that cause the double icons under Settings.
7) Now I’m left with the white Amazon logo on my TV screen and white pulsing light on the unit itself. I like to think that the motherboard or the power unit are still alive, just that the software part of it got messed up by ME big time!
Matt_7 said:
Now I’m left with the white Amazon logo on my TV screen and white pulsing light on the unit itself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like DanielF50 said, as a first step you may try to connect with fastboot, use an usb a-to-a cable and run: fastboot devices
Sus_i said:
Completely right for the second gen fireTV :good:
But the first gen fireTV isn't a MTK SOC device, the SOC is from broadcom with different booting stages. In case of a rooted box, you can up- & downgrade to any fireOS 5 version if you like.
There is a way, but it requires hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron) and at least some soldering skills.
Some guys have tried it, it's all in the bueller prerooted rom thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good information to know, thanks Sus_i :good:
Reading Matt's response, it looks hopeful that he should be able to fastboot into the device to recover it then.
Sus_i said:
Like DanielF50 said, as a first step you may try to connect with fastboot, use an usb a-to-a cable and run: fastboot devices
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I'll get the USB A to A cable, how does one run the fastboot?
Once I connect the FireTV to my PC using the USB A- A cable, what will happen? do I need to install anything on my Windows 10 to run fastboot?
Update:
OK, dfound out I already have fastboot in my platform-tools folder,
From AFTNews:
Enter the command:
fastboot devices
If your computer has correctly detected your Fire TV, you will see a series of numbers followed by the word “fastboot” after entering the above command.
Download the latest version of ClockworkMod custom recovery from AFTVnews.com/recovery
Rename the file you just downloaded to “recovery.img”
Enter the command:
fastboot flash recovery recovery.img
(Be sure to replacerecovery.img with the full path to the file you just renamed)
Enter the command:
fastboot boot recovery.img
(Be sure to replacerecovery.img with the full path to the file you just renamed)
Your Fire TV should now boot into ClockworkMod recovery. Proceed to follow the steps in the next section below labeled “Resetting with Recovery Mode”.
Resetting with Recovery Mode
If you can successfully enter ClockworkMod recovery, then follow the below steps to reset your Fire TV, regardless of what state it is in and what has been done to it. You can also follow these steps if, for example, you want to update your ROM but aren’t sure if you’ve unlocked your bootloader or aren’t sure if you’ve installed the boot menu.
[OPTIONAL] From within ClockworkMod, select the option to “wipe data/factory reset”. This will delete all of your settings and user data. It is an optional step, but is recommended.
From within ClockworkMod, select the option to “wipe cache partition”.
Follow my guide to install pre-rooted Stock ROM version 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated. Note, you are NOT installing the latest pre-rooted ROM on purpose. Do NOT skip ahead and install the latest pre-rooted ROM.
Restart your Fire TV. You should be able to boot normally.
Follow my guide to install BusyBox.
Follow my guide to unlock your bootloader.
Follow my guide to install the boot menu.
Follow my guide to install the latest pre-rooted ROM.
Do I need to redo all these? I already have TWRP. If I'm to do the above I would end up with both TWRP recovery and ClockworkMod custom recovery, right?
Once done, do I actually install the 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated or 5.2.6.3_r1?
Pardon my ignorance!
Matt_7 said:
OK, I'll get the USB A to A cable, how does one run the fastboot?
Once I connect the FireTV to my PC using the USB A- A cable, what will happen? do I need to install anything on my Windows 10 to run fastboot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, bundled with android-sdk so runs just like you'd use adb, but obviously has a different purpose/commands - I should think there would be info on the full bootloader unlock thread on how to use it to recover from a bootloop using fastboot?
Matt_7 said:
Do I need to redo all these? I already have TWRP. If I'm to do the above I would end up with both TWRP recovery and ClockworkMod custom recovery, right?
Once done, do I actually install the 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated or 5.2.6.3_r1?
Pardon my ignorance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try to boot the recovery.img (boot... not flash!)
This means, grab the latest prerooted, extract the recovery.img into the fastboot/adb folder. Check/connect with fastboot devices and run: fastboot boot recovery.img
In case this fails, you may carefully follow the guide you've posted above.
Sus_i said:
You can try to boot the recovery.img (boot... not flash!)
This means, grab the latest prerooted, extract the recovery.img into the fastboot/adb folder. Check/connect with fastboot devices and run: fastboot boot recovery.img
In case this fails, you may carefully follow the guide you've posted above.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will try and report back.
I actually made a copy of "bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img", "bootmenu.img" and "recovery.img" which I copied from the FireTV before flashing, I reckon I can use the "recovery.img"?
Matt_7 said:
OK, will try and report back.
I actually made a copy of "bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img", "bootmenu.img" and "recovery.img" which I copied from the FireTV before flashing, I reckon I can use the "recovery.img"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would try to boot bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img and recovery.img
Update 3:
Gosh, I got it to the point of checking for updates and unplugged the internet cable hoping to issue via adb to block OTA, and the FireTV detected no internet connection and asked to unplug the power for a few minutes and I did that, but now no whatsoever light on the FIreTV itself, don't tell me its now dead not because I bricked it the other day, but because of the power unit?
Tested the power adapter with a multimeter, got 6.18V (6.25 is printed on the power adapter), since 6.18V is close to 6.25V, its not the power adapter right?
Update 2:
OK, figured out I could remove the USB A to A cable and use the USB port on the FireTV to connect my Logitech K400 ! (see, I'm not a very smart person!)
- I deleted "Data"
- Tried to wipe cache and got a message "No OS installed"
- No choice but to select install option and install 5.2.7.2_r1
- Now at least I'm seeing the Colourful Amazon logo again, and now its doing the "Optimizing system storage and applications...", wish me luck!
Update 1:
Just received my USB A to A Male to Male (LOL) cable today.
Don't know to jump for joy or cry!
- When I typed "fastbbot devices", I got exactly from "AFTNews - If your computer has correctly detected your Fire TV, you will see a series of numbers followed by the word “fastboot” after entering the above command.", I got the screen showing me my device/serial number and the word fastboot, so I think its working!
- I then typed "fastboot boot bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img" and the white Amazon logo was gone I was back in TWRP screen, but I couldn't do anything, the USB port is already used by the USB A to A cable (USB splitter couldn't work either), I see the mouse pointer, but how to move it to reboot/wipe/install/advance etc?
Mayday, help!
Matt_7 said:
Update 1:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
Matt_7 said:
Update 2:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
Matt_7 said:
Update 3:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pull all the plugs from the box + tv and try again...
6.xx v seems ok. Any voltage drops if you connect a device, light bulb or anything like that?
Sus_i said:
: Any voltage drops if you connect a device, light bulb or anything like that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Sus_i.
How to connect the light bulb to test, and connect from where to where?
I couldn't believe what a stupid move I did by pulling the internet cable and now I want to beat myself so bad...
I've a few power adapters from router/modem etc lying around, will I damage the Fire TV if I'm to try them out?
Matt_7 said:
Thanks Sus_i.
How to connect the light bulb to test, and connect from where to where?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried to pull all plugs, reconnect only the power supply... what does the LED?
There is an ifixit guide on how to disassemble the fireTV. In case you open the box, measure the voltage IN inside the fireTV at power on. You can measure VDD 3.3v and VDDQ 1.8v too, next to the emmc, see the picture here.
Matt_7 said:
I couldn't believe what a stupid move I did by pulling the internet cable and now I want to beat myself so bad...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That shouldn'd harm anything. In case of a failure, the fireTv should blink yellow.
Matt_7 said:
I've a few power adapters from router/modem etc lying around, will I damage the Fire TV if I'm to try them out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can test other adapters, someone on this forum said that he used an 5v usb supply, but for a 'stable use' you need a big one... regards the amps...
I think a power supply between 7v to 5v works fine, probably no damages at all.
Sus_i said:
Have you tried to pull all plugs, reconnect only the power supply... what does the LED?
There is an ifixit guide on how to disassemble the fireTV. In case you open the box, measure the voltage IN inside the fireTV at power on. You can measure VDD 3.3v and VDDQ 1.8v too, next to the emmc, see the picture here.
That shouldn'd harm anything. In case of a failure, the fireTv should blink yellow.
You can test other adapters, someone on this forum said that he used an 5v usb supply, but for a 'stable use' you need a big one... regards the amps...
I think a power supply between 7v to 5v works fine, probably no damages at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will try to open up the FireTV.
No light/LED when plugging only the power adapter to the FIreTV, already tried different power outlets throughout the house
Come to the worst, will this https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66961740&postcount=676 help?
Thanks again.
Matt_7 said:
Come to the worst, will this https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66961740&postcount=676 help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Don't follow this guide, you lose your unlock... apart from that, the download link from the guide is dead
Sus_i said:
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Don't follow this guide, you lose your unlock... apart from that, the download link from the guide is dead
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will forget about that!
Once I got the FireTV opened, will take some pixs and report back!
OK, here are the pixs.
Now that I look at the Multimeter, I'm not sure I'm using it correctly. Bought this few years ago (just in case I need to test my car's battery).
AT the bottom of the multimeter, there are 3 holes, one red on each side and black hole in the center, which two am I supposed to use?
I tested the power adapter again with multimeter using the center black and red on the right, and I'm reading 4.2V?
Sus_i said:
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would it be possible just by looking at the board if its kaput?