Hello can someone help me working out my mouse on a Mantis using the modded cable for firesticks, but after trying out using Wired and Wireless mouse, theres not any response from both of them but wired did have power (with red light coming from the optical sensor), don't think theres any problem with the hardware because it works fine on PC. This prevents me from navigating TWRP without the mouse... sad I can't install magisk huhu
Make sure your cable is good, the 4th and 5th pin have to be shorted properly otherwise stick cannot be used as host.
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When I first got the stick I connected it to HDMI-1 on my Panasonic Plasma to do some testing, I later permanently moved it to one of the HDMI ports on my Pioneer receiver. The receiver connects to the TV via HDMI-2 where ARC is. The problem is that when I switch the receiver to the Fire TV input the TV automatically gets switched to HDMI-1 where nothing is connected, this also happens when FireTV gets out of sleep mode. I have to switch the TV back to HDMI-2. I am assuming that the FireTV is doing this via CEC. I have a Chromecast, Roku, SageTV and a PC connected to the receiver and none of them exhibit this behavior.
I rebooted multiple times but id does not help. I can disable CEC on the TV or Receiver but then I loose ARC so that is not an option. Any ideas on how to fix this?
farfromuman said:
When I first got the stick I connected it to HDMI-1 on my Panasonic Plasma to do some testing, I later permanently moved it to one of the HDMI ports on my Pioneer receiver. The receiver connects to the TV via HDMI-2 where ARC is. The problem is that when I switch the receiver to the Fire TV input the TV automatically gets switched to HDMI-1 where nothing is connected, this also happens when FireTV gets out of sleep mode. I have to switch the TV back to HDMI-2. I am assuming that the FireTV is doing this via CEC. I have a Chromecast, Roku, SageTV and a PC connected to the receiver and none of them exhibit this behavior.
I rebooted multiple times but id does not help. I can disable CEC on the TV or Receiver but then I loose ARC so that is not an option. Any ideas on how to fix this?
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Click to collapse
There is a way to disable cec on rooted firetv’s but the easier way to fix this is to completely shut down the whole setup and hopefully the firetv will resync back to the correct input.
navigates said:
There is a way to disable cec on rooted firetv’s but the easier way to fix this is to completely shut down the whole setup and hopefully the firetv will resync back to the correct input.
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Click to collapse
Unplugged everything and it seemed to be fixed but the next day it is back to switching my TV to HDMI 1 on its own.
farfromuman said:
Unplugged everything and it seemed to be fixed but the next day it is back to switching my TV to HDMI 1 on its own.
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Click to collapse
Probably more of an issue with your tv .. possibly receiver. Is there a firmware update for your tv?
cec less adaptor
i had conflict on my Samsung tv with other cec devices and the best way around it i got a cec less adaptor for the hdmi cable plugged into the AFTV this stops the AFTV conflicting with your other devices as thats what it sounds like it is doing like mine was
only downside it will not auto channel switch when waking AFTV from sleep
HeXDeMoN said:
Probably more of an issue with your tv .. possibly receiver. Is there a firmware update for your tv?
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Click to collapse
since the firetv likes to go back to hdmi1. why not switch your hdmi's to give it input 1?
navigates said:
since the firetv likes to go back to hdmi1. why not switch your hdmi's to give it input 1?
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Click to collapse
Yes that would seem logical but the ARC is on HDMI2 so I would have to run an additional cable back to the Receiver. I switched to the FireTV Box and it works fine without interfering with my TV's HDMI inputs. The stick will go to the second TV in the house and if it has an issue there I will do a full reset.
Similar issue here with receiver (Denon X2000) switching to TV input (Samsung UN60F6350) in 1-2 seconds after I manually switch the input to Fire TV (box, not stick). This behavior developed over past 1-2 weeks or so, before I've been using Fire TV with no issues.
After setting HDMI control to "OFF" in receiver's Video settings it stopped switching, so my theory is that somehow my "smart" TV sends activation signal to the receiver and makes it switch. This is similar to any HDMI device starting to play, except in this case looks like TV keeps sending that signal constantly.
A quick fix, but annoying, is to just unplug the HDMI cable from the Fire TV box or Fire stick. I have had these devices for a long time and never had a problem until a few months ago. It is annoying! Every (about 30 minutes...almost like it was on a timer of sorts) time I am watching my DirecTV cable box HDMI input, it will just switch to the HDMI input that the Fire TV box (or Fire TV stick) is on. SO it has to be something that the Amazon box is sending out through the HDMI cable to the TV that causes the HDMI input to change. AMAZON needs to send out an update that eliminates that problem because it HAS TO BE in their software coding. As BIG of a problem as this is, you would think that they would have fixed this already. There are many other streaming boxes out there now that are much better, cheaper, and do not have issues like this. They stand to lose a ton of future dollars if they don't fix this problem. I have invested in 6 boxes for the 6 TV's in my home. They need to do something about this!!
Hi Everybody,
I upgraded my FireTV to the latest pre-rooted 51.1.5.0_515020820. Followed all the steps in FireTV News and used rbox's package.
The update was successful but right after update I begin to notice problems with my fire tv controller.
I takes too much time to start working, and for some reason, my Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse are not working after the update. Some times the screen saver even kicks in before the remote starts to work.
Has anybody experiencing the same kind of problems?
I'm attaching a logcat from the boot until the remote starts working.
EDIT: Just realized I had enabled USB debugging. Disabling that made at least my keyboard work again, but the mouse is not functioning. Both are connected to the same Logithech unifying dongle and both do work on a computer.
danielcbit said:
Hi Everybody,
I upgraded my FireTV to the latest pre-rooted 51.1.5.0_515020820. Followed all the steps in FireTV News and used rbox's package.
The update was successful but right after update I begin to notice problems with my fire tv controller.
I takes too much time to start working, and for some reason, my Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse are not working after the update. Some times the screen saver even kicks in before the remote starts to work.
Has anybody experiencing the same kind of problems?
I'm attaching a logcat from the boot until the remote starts working.
EDIT: Just realized I had enabled USB debugging. Disabling that made at least my keyboard work again, but the mouse is not functioning. Both are connected to the same Logithech unifying dongle and both do work on a computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Youre not the only one. I had something similar pointed out to me in another thread. Havent had time to test but logitech k400 mouse pad is having issues. Keyboard appears to work fine.
Any one else having these kinds of problems with the fire tv bluetooth control?
I also noticed that my remotes is disconnecting from FireTV randomly. Sometimes when I'm watching something, the remote does not respond. I have to wait from seconds to minutes until the remote starts to respond again.
I also have in the area my FireTv is several BLE beacons, I'm starting to think that they might have something to do with that problem.
I am currently using the Sixaxis app with sony ps3 dualshock controller to control my fire tv - it works great - has support for home button, mouse mode and can be customized very well.
My only problem is that, the controller will not charge no matter what - from the fire tv directly, or when connected to pc, or from a wall charger.
The only way to charge it is to reset it (via the small pinhole in the back), or connect it to ps3 - this will make it lose the pairing with the fire tv and it will start charging again. I will have to set the bluetooth address again via the SixaxisPairTool from PC to get it to pair with the fire tv again.
My first question is - does the charging work for you after you have used the SixaxisPairTool from PC?
I also have a gamestop red samurai v2 controller. This pairs and works with the fire tv without any special app. However, misses mouse control.
I went through the threads here and understand that by creating a custom keyboard.kl file we can get the behavior we want for that controller. Can that idea be used to control mouse behavior as well? Any pointers would be welcome.
Thanks.
deepasadish said:
I am currently using the Sixaxis app with sony ps3 dualshock controller to control my fire tv - it works great - has support for home button, mouse mode and can be customized very well.
My only problem is that, the controller will not charge no matter what - from the fire tv directly, or when connected to pc, or from a wall charger.
The only way to charge it is to reset it (via the small pinhole in the back), or connect it to ps3 - this will make it lose the pairing with the fire tv and it will start charging again. I will have to set the bluetooth address again via the SixaxisPairTool from PC to get it to pair with the fire tv again.
My first question is - does the charging work for you after you have used the SixaxisPairTool from PC?
I also have a gamestop red samurai v2 controller. This pairs and works with the fire tv without any special app. However, misses mouse control.
I went through the threads here and understand that by creating a custom keyboard.kl file we can get the behavior we want for that controller. Can that idea be used to control mouse behavior as well? Any pointers would be welcome.
Thanks.
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Click to collapse
hah, so you're here as well... I also have/had ps3 controller paired with sixaxis, but I haven't used it for a while and ATM does need to be charged with actual PS3.
So, to answer your question PS3 controller did work(charged via phone charger and xbox one usb) for me after it was paired with sixaxis for long time until eventually I stopped using it and then ran out of juice. Now it needs PS3 to charge again (maybe once), before I can reuse wall charger. Problem is, I don't have PS3 on me.
yep. the ps3 controller with sixaxis app works so beautifully with both regular apps and side loaded apps (that require mouse), it is a shame that it cannot be charged.
i have it setup such that the right analog is mouse (always in mouse mode), left analog is rew/ff/prev/next, d-pad is d-pad, L1 and R1 are left and right mouse, etc.
the problem is the sixaxis tool works only with sony ps3 controller. is there any other app like this that will do the same with any controller? thanks.
deepasadish said:
yep. the ps3 controller with sixaxis app works so beautifully with both regular apps and side loaded apps (that require mouse), it is a shame that it cannot be charged.
i have it setup such that the right analog is mouse (always in mouse mode), left analog is rew/ff/prev/next, d-pad is d-pad, L1 and R1 are left and right mouse, etc.
the problem is the sixaxis tool works only with sony ps3 controller. is there any other app like this that will do the same with any controller? thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well there are xbox 360 and xbox one controllers "how to" here, but I haven't tried them since both somewhat requires usb cable or dongle because they are not bluetooth based. and just repeating myself here, but ps3 controller does charge using other options and NOT ps3 only. BUT if it dies, then PS3 is required to recharge because you'll have to reset it.
ok. i am not sure why the charging does not work for me though. it won't even charge from PC once the SixAxisPairTool changes the mac address.
i saw the tincore app and i am planning to try it today with my gamestop controller.
How did you configure the sixaxis controller app? Whenever I try to connect the controller it never finds it even if i have the correct bluetooth address paired.
SUCCESS with tincore app. configuration is a bit difficult due to access via the fire tv remote and due to some menu items not showing up fully. however, once configured, the gamestop red samurai v2 remote works flawlessly - for necessary buttons as well as mouse.
i cannot get it to auto apply on restart and will investigate that later. for now, i am happy . thanks.
rfarina51 said:
How did you configure the sixaxis controller app? Whenever I try to connect the controller it never finds it even if i have the correct bluetooth address paired.
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Click to collapse
not sure what you are missing, but you can try this:
1. start the sixaxis server in fire tv and get the bluetooth address from bottom left
2. use the SixaxisPairTool in PC to set that address on the controller (for good measure you can reset the controller first by the pinhole in the back)
3. now pressing the glass PS button on controller should pair it
Hi,
I have a OTG/MHL adapter which has 2 USB ports and 1 HDMI port along with other SD/MMC etc. The phone is displaying fine on TV.
However I have a broken screen/digitizer. This is the reason for creating the thread.
When I connect my wired mouse into any of the USB ports, it displays Mouse connected (connected to HDMI through to TV) but there is no pointer and no movement. RED LED is lit under Mouse to show power is drawn.
I have a LG G3 phone but unfortunately trying to connect to it doesn't work however I have another USB OTG Cable but it's only 1 connection. Micro USB to USB. IF I connect that to my LG phone along with my wired mouse then I see the pointer and I can control my phone. No issues.
My Broken phone android version is 4.4.x
The mouse is a new mouse but one of the cheap one from eBay. Bottom of the Mouse the Rating is 5V --- 100Ma
The OTG Adapter is another cheap one but it's always worked for me without any issues. However MAYBE, just maybe the reason it doesn't work is because the power input or DC is also 5V. Does that mean the mouse is taking all the power?
What I'm trying to achieve -
Enable WIFI so then I can remote control the device etc. I use the Broken phone for KODI.
Can I use any ADB commands to make it work? I don't have it rooted I don't think but I can start the phone in Recovery mode.
Any advice will help,
Thanks
Hi,
I have 2nd gen Fire TV stick non-4K. I have configured the correct inputs for cable and Fire TV, in the Fire TV settings. HDMI-CEC is enabled as well.
Speaking "Alexa, switch inputs" seems to work fine.
However, I want my TV to change to correct input automatically when I press the home button on the fire TV stick remote.
How to get this to work?
Are you using launcherhijack?
JUSTINMARMER said:
Are you using launcherhijack?
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Click to collapse
I am running stock launcher, unrooted as well.
I always have to long press home then home again to get it to switch to the right input through cec
I found the reason for this issue. It turns out Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC on Samsung) does not connect to firetv, if I have my cable HDMI also plugged into the TV.
Removing the cable HDMI, and just having firetv stick plugged into the TV, makes HDMI-CEC work fine.
With Anynet+ functioning, I am able to change inputs correctly by pressing Home button + Back button on the fire TV stick remote.
I still don't know how to make Anynet+ work with my cable plugged in.