My P605 has no sign of life.
Internal charger doesn't seem to be working at all. So I've charged the battery with my bench power supply, resoldered the battery connector. Measured the connector on the board and it shows battery voltage. When connected through a USB power monitor the device doesn't seem to draw any power whatsoever though.
Is there some common hardware problem I should be looking at apart from dead battery/bad battery connector?
I do have a hot air rework station, fairly decent soldering skills, bench supply and oscilloscope but nothing super fancy,.
Anduhroid said:
My P605 has no sign of life.
Internal charger doesn't seem to be working at all. So I've charged the battery with my bench power supply, resoldered the battery connector. Measured the connector on the board and it shows battery voltage. When connected through a USB power monitor the device doesn't seem to draw any power whatsoever though.
Is there some common hardware problem I should be looking at apart from dead battery/bad battery connector?
I do have a hot air rework station, fairly decent soldering skills, bench supply and oscilloscope but nothing super fancy,.
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Click to collapse
The usb assembly tends to fail & can be cheaply replaced, but as you already charged the battery externally, there must be another problem.
I found it difficult to attach the connector of my new battery, required a lot of pressure, and to arrange the battery cable such that it won't push up the connector. There was hardly room for the battery cable, as it was two or three millimeters longer & the wires quite stiff.
lecorbusier said:
The usb assembly tends to fail & can be cheaply replaced, but as you already charged the battery externally, there must be another problem.
I found it difficult to attach the connector of my new battery, required a lot of pressure, and to arrange the battery cable such that it won't push up the connector. There was hardly room for the battery cable, as it was two or three millimeters longer & the wires quite stiff.
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Click to collapse
I will check the USB assembly just in case it might affect something. Better to be safe than sorry
What would be super useful would be a schematic/diagram, but I guess that there is no maintenance/service manual available anywhere is there?
Fugget about schematics etc.
The usb assy costs less than $10€,fortunately, but also contains the buttons and leds, which makes replacement a bit more complicated.
Related
This weekend, I did a well deserved 2015 Upgrade to my Galaxy Nexus, by making it compatible with Qi charging stations.
Showcase: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbaimVOVAic
First thing I did, was take the phone apart. It's very easy and nearly impossible to do wrong. All you need to do is take out battery and sim card along with all the screws behind the cover. Then use a guitar pick or something similar to loose the clips around the screen: Start with the clip on the left, right below the volume keys, next the one above the speaker/frontfacing camera and the last two are located below the power button. This video shows how to do just that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIAM5pxdUiM
Afterwards, i drilled two holes with a 1mm drukk through two of the three contact plates, put small cables through said holes from the other side and soldered them to the contacts. It had to be as thin as possible, as the contacts make contact with the main board with tiny springs, that don't have a lot of give.
The three contacts are in the following order:
Left = +5V
Middle = [rumor]Samsung Fast Charge regulation[/rumor]
Right = Ground
After that was done, I use small metal strips (~0.5mm thick), shortened the cables and soldered them to these strips. Afterwards, I put the phone back together and fixed the position of the contacts according to the position the contacts of the Qi were in.
I had to scratch off some of the notches on the backplate, as these were in the way, due to the cables I had to route along the left side. Finally, I fixated the Qi module with some doublesided tape to the backplate and voilá, it was finished.
This cost me like 5 bucks for the noname aftermarket Qi module (charging station not included) and a few hours to get it all done!
If you got questions, feel free to ask (post, not pm pls!). Any kind of feedback is also welcomed!
Nice work! I added one of the USB qi coil addons and I found it got very hot when charging. I was worried it'd heat the battery up and shorten the life of it....
bamtan2 said:
Nice work! I added one of the USB qi coil addons and I found it got very hot when charging. I was worried it'd heat the battery up and shorten the life of it....
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yeah, im experiencing a similar issue. Looking at the current the qi station consumes, my module doesnt seem to throttle at all (via usb, it starts at 1A and, starting at around 85% charge, it slowly drops to 0A).
The Qi module should communicate with the station and signal the charge rate and subsequently full charge status (= no more charging). nada. I ordered another module by another manufacturer to see if it makes any difference. though, I suspect the GN just isnt fit for Qi, no matter what
P.S. The temps of the battery quickly go up to 45°C. When using normal usb charging, 40°C is already pretty rare. However most of the heat is not produced by charging the battery itself, but by the coil transferring the temperature. the backside of the battery remains a cool 30°C, even after charging for a long time using Qi.
Did you solve the high temperature problem? I was thinking of a similar mod but also got high temps with an external USB plug-in receiver module.
Great! I wanted to do something like that, bought the Qi unit, and a platform for charging, but before soldering checked both charges, and I did not like the fact that you need to put the phone just to the point that he began to be charged
The charging port on my Nexus 7 2013 starting playing up and only charging when the cable was held in certain positions and then finally it stopped working altogether.
I took it apart to replace the port and the problem was that the legs on the connector had actually lifted the tracks off the board.
I replaced the connector and wired the legs to the nearby pads the tracks I believe they're supposed to go to and when plugged in both the charging symbol appeared and usb data communications worked.
However I then had a slight mishap while handling it and managed to knock off and break the component pointed to by the arrow in the photo.
The component has no markings on it and is about 2mm x 1mm. I can't measure the original with a meter as it's physically broken.
Can anyone tell me what the component is so that I can replace it?
I meant to also add that while looking for info I came across this site regarding the port repair which some people may find useful although personally I think you're better of removing the sub board and then using a proper desolder station if you have access to one.
http://freemansgarage.com/blog/?p=1082
Ollie2 said:
what the component is so that I can replace it?
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Click to collapse
This component has a sub-ohm resistance and is a fusible resistor or choke/inductor. Either way you can just short/bridge it - no worries
k23m said:
This component has a sub-ohm resistance and is a fusible resistor or choke/inductor. Either way you can just short/bridge it - no worries
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Click to collapse
Thank you very much for the reply, that's just the kind of answer I was hoping for.
With the link bridged the device does show it as charging when plugged in however the charging rate is now really, really slow and at it's current rate of charge looks like it'll take about 50 hours to fully charge.
If I put an ammeter across the two pads then it looks like it pulls about 85ma whereas I'd expect it to be more like 10 times that.
I've tested it with several cables and chargers (0.5A, 1A and 2A) that used to work perfectly with it previously and still work with other devices..
I've ordered an inline usb ammeter that should arrive later today to double check the current usage but the charger or battery don't get warm so I'd guess it's correct.
The repaired tracks look to be correct and beep through fine, the data cable works and I can transfer data but presumably there is something else wrong with it.
Any suggestions of what else to look or is there anything that I need to do with software to reset the charging process?
Ollie2 said:
If I put an ammeter across the two pads then it looks like it pulls about 85ma whereas I'd expect it to be more like 10 times that.
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Click to collapse
The ammeter's internal resistance may trigger N7's lower charging current draw which normally happens to prevent overloading USB2 or weak chargers.
Anyway, do a recalibration:
fully discharge N7
recharge it completely while off
disconnect the charger and turn N7 on
Thanks for the reply.
I added the ammeter inline as it was charging so slowly and the 85ma it looks to pull roughly equates to the charging times I'm seeing.
The tablet is fully charged at the moment (via a wireless charger) but when it's not needed for a few days I'll flatten the battery and let it charge using the cable, I'd guess it'll take 2-3 days to do so.
Interestingly apps such as ampere show the sort of current I'd expect the device to be getting in the 800ma range however I'm guessing it's calculating this as the requested current but it's just not making it to the battery for some reason.
Hi,
Have searched this forum and other sources on the web. Can't resolve my issue. Hope I can get some help.
Running the most recent stock update. This is a Wi-Fi model only.
I will explain what happened.
Had the tablet plugged into outlet.
Had the Chrome browser open, was logged into a NHRA drag racing website and watching live racing.
Was Chromecasting to my 55" Sony tv.
The tablet was in this configuration for about 4 hours, the screen went black and lost Chromecast connection to tv.
Could not see if the battery was running low, as the tablet was at full screen.
Left the tablet charging in a different outlet. And with different cables.
Have tried all the Power, Volume and Home button combinations.
Have had the back cover off. Disconnected the various battery cables. Took the battery completely out.
No response from the tablet. No vibrations or flashes.
Am I missing any other solutions.
Thanks in advance.
does it attempt to charge?
NJ_RAMS_FAN said:
does it attempt to charge?
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Click to collapse
Yes. The charger gets warm. Took back off, and checked with multimeter. 4.09 volts and 3.44 amps.
Going to order a replacement battery. Though I don't think the battery is bad. I think something has to be reset on the Tab S.
Thanks.
Don’t fix problem by guessing. Search eBay for USB voltage tester, it will display the voltage and charging current. You can verify the problem from usb cable, charger, USB port , battery connectors or main board .
The most common mistake is assuming the battery is bad without checking other parts feed the current to battery.
If your tablets works, the charging current should be around 1.5 to 1.7 Amps, more or less depending the battery status, less than 1.5 amps when it’s nearly full.
Beut said:
Don’t fix problem by guessing. Search eBay for USB voltage tester, it will display the voltage and charging current. You can verify the problem from usb cable, charger, USB port , battery connectors or main board .
The most common mistake is assuming the battery is bad without checking other parts feed the current to battery.
If your tablets works, the charging current should be around 1.5 to 1.7 Amps, more or less depending the battery status, less than 1.5 amps when it’s nearly full.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charger output is 5.28 volts and 2.30 amps.
The main board is 3.65 volts and 3.31 amps when connected to battery.
The battery is 3.66 volts and 3.48 amps when disconnected from main board.
Robls said:
The charger output is 5.28 volts and 2.30 amps.
The main board is 3.65 volts and 3.31 amps when connected to battery.
The battery is 3.66 volts and 3.48 amps when disconnected from main board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These measurements won't give you any glue what is wrong along the charging circuit which involves many parts.
Use the USB voltage amperage tester when charging, it will tell you how much charging current is drawing.
If it's less than 1.5 Amps, then using elimination method to find where is the defective part. You must have known working parts for testing.
Start from USB cable, charger, USB charging port, then battery connectors: this one requires technical experiences to see what is wrong. Most average users don't see the cracked solder joints on battery connector which requires microscope. With the naked eyes most won't see anything wrong because the crack in underneath of solder joints
From my experiences, changing the USB port won't see any differences, then problem is mostly from battery connectors. The one from mainboard needs to be resoldered, the one from battery needs to fix the cable clips. I have been fixed hundreds of them, so this is not an opinion.
You need to read from here to understand Samsung tablet's problem
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=63133996&postcount=131
Hi, I wanted to share the resolution of the fault that has plagued my Leeco Le Pro 3 X720. The smartphone was placed on the desk in stanby not charging and the failure occurred with excessive heat localized in the lower area Charge dock board, not waking up with fingerprint reader or power button.
After having disassembled it to the instrument control of the Charge dock board I find a shorted capacitor (see attached photo)
https://imgur.com/a/FAhdM5n?
that causes the total discharge of the battery bringing the voltage of the same below the recharge threshold. Replaced the condenser, recharged the battery with bench battery charger directly on the terminals to bring it back to a charge value above the minimum threshold.
Reassembled the smartphone returns to normal operation.
losmingo
Nice.
BTW, your photo of shorted capacitor can't be seen. Upload it to imgur.
Great find. Did you have any burns on the charger plug when you first had this issue? Can you post a link to the replacement condenser?
Yes, excellent post!
Please do links any of the components that you used.
I found this board which appears to hav the chips that many after market replacement boards lack: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-LEECO-...m=163202507190&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109
Here is a link for replacement flex cables: https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Back...0a63-4886-a325-a2e4c99de900&priceBeautifyAB=0
Not having the wiring diagram of the terminal ignore the value of the capacity installed in the factory, but being wired on the power terminals of the active component next I replaced it with a capacitor of the same physical dimensions and a capacity of 0.47 µF 10 Vl recovered from other electronic cards.
While for what concerns the replacement Charge dock board that are on aliexpress, ebay, amazon etc., as already reported by Kener97 in this post https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75483859&postcount= 7 are without active components.
I have a strange problem with my Tablet. It does not charge my battery, i measured the whole circute from the usb port to every resistor etc.
When i plug in the cable, for some time i have 2.5 Volt at the battery terminal. After some seconds, it drops to 0.94 Volts.
The battery was discharged when i was on vacation and i cant revive it. No trick helped so far, has someone recharged a battery externaly and what i need for it? I tried 2 battery's, but both are dead. I don't want to spend 20 Euros for a battery if i don't know if the battery is dead or if there is some other problem in the system.
I had the same problem, in my case it was a broken charger and a usb female that has become too wide or there is oxide, I dont know exactly. Now I always charge the device being turned off, WiFi off and without touching it for at least 2 hours. One small movement can disconnect the Male from the Female.
Cheers n good luck
Droehnemeier said:
I had the same problem, in my case it was a broken charger and a usb female that has become too wide or there is oxide, I dont know exactly. Now I always charge the device being turned off, WiFi off and without touching it for at least 2 hours. One small movement can disconnect the Male from the Female.
Cheers n good luck
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Click to collapse
I tested many chargers, cables and measured the connector at the battery. I am now to the point with a loaded battery, but still it wont turn on. I resoldered the battery connector with no luck. I wait for a few items now for resolder smd parts, maybe i broke the battery connector on the board, a microscope will show it.
Good luck mate