shield gen1 controller very short wireless range - Shield Android TV Accessories

i got a gen1 gamepad that has developed a very short range. it has to be no more than 10cm away from the shield otherwise it looses signal and doesnt work. i have tried it on a 2nd shield tv box and its the same issue. has to be ultra close range otherwise it doesnt work.
anyone know where the antenna is inside the controller and what could be done to fix this issue?

anyone got any clues on this? controller works perfect when wired up.

Related

anyone try usb controllers?

Hey, did anyone here use USB controllers through an otg cable? If so did it work with emulators?
I'm going to buy a USB nes controller for nesoid and find out but I would be happier knowing that people here have been able to do things like this. I use my Bluetooth keyboard just fine so I hope it is as easy as that.
I have read about people having success with usb controllers. I know I do.
I tried a Logitech USB controller connected to a hub. It worked flawlesslyand i was able to map all the keys.
That is good to hear. Since I can HDMI out my xoom to my TV I can get the true experience practically without trying to buy another nes.
On a side note: why is everybody using USB hubs? Ever since USB hosting I have noticed it is a common thing lying around the house. Maybe one day when I have more USB peripherals I will understand but right now everything is Bluetooth.
I've tested two controllers so far, a PS3 one, and a PS2 controller connected via a USB adapter.
The PS3 worked perfectly except for in N64oid, I could map all the buttons, but for some reason the d-pad and analog sticks don't work to move Mario around in Mario 64 (the only game I've tested). It worked great in FPse, SNESoid, etc, etc.
The PS2 controller connected to a USB adapter would work to move the screen around, but when I tried to map any keys in apps they would just show as "unknown"
My Super Dual Box Pro doesn't seem to work right with the -oid series of emulators. Analog up/down/left/right works ok in the emulator menus, but none of the buttons do anything in the game, even after mapping. All of the buttons say "unknown".
calvin4001 said:
That is good to hear. Since I can HDMI out my xoom to my TV I can get the true experience practically without trying to buy another nes.
On a side note: why is everybody using USB hubs? Ever since USB hosting I have noticed it is a common thing lying around the house. Maybe one day when I have more USB peripherals I will understand but right now everything is Bluetooth.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use a hub because I keep all my ROMs on it. I plug in my controller and thumbdrive. I believe that you can also plug in an additional controller for multiplayer games line Mario Kart.

[XOOM 2] Xoom 2 ME - Joypad support?

Since Honeycomb provides support for various game controllers, I thought I'd give my Xbox 360 controllers a try. Neither the wired or wireless (via MS USB/wireless adapter) devices are recognised by my Xoom 2 ME.
I am using a USB OTG cable that works perfectly with a flash drive and a mouse.
Logcat shows no entries at all when the Xbox controllers are plugged in, which perhaps suggests that the stock firmware doesn't support them.
Has anyone else been able to get USB joypads or other game controllers to work with the Xoom 2 natively? I'm avoiding IME hacks and suchlike as I would like something that will work with the new controller APIs.
I know there's only about three people in the world (other than me) who actually bought the Xoom 2 ME, but surely one of you has a joypad you can test out?
I spotted a cheap-ish controller (£17) when out shopping and decided to give it a try.
I got the Power-A Air-Flo PS3 controller, which actually has an overall layout similar to an Xbox 360 controller (which is what I'm used to).
This was recognised by the X2ME straight away and I was able to have a quick game of Cordy with it. As a bonus, and since it's a standard HID controller, it works on my Ubuntu laptop as well.
So perhaps the X2ME is a bit fussier about its controllers than some other tablets, or perhaps there's additional tweaking needed to get the Xbox controllers working.
My ultimate aim is to be able to plug this tablet into a TV in a hotel room via HDMI and use it as a portable games console. Currently I'm having trouble with the Micro-HDMI to HDMI connection and I'm not sure if it's a problem with the cable, the socket on the X2ME, or some software issue. So far I have been able to get a picture to appear on the TV only intermittently and haven't yet had both the game controller and the HDMI output working at the same time.
Edit: Have just managed to get the HDMI out running for long enough to test with the controller and it worked really well. Once I have figured out the reason for the intermittent HDMI output, it'll be time to find games available for the X2ME that support an external controller
I realise I'm pretty much just talking to myself on this thread, so here's a picture to liven things up ;-)
Sent from my Android phone
i just tried two usb controllers
logitect rumblePad 2(normal pc game controller) that's works perfectly and a logitect chillstream (windows recognize it as an xbox360 controller) that's is not working (although powerup and tablet recognized it )
Thanks for the info. It is starting to look like there may be an issue recognising Xbox-type controllers, though it's based on a rather small sample at this stage
Sent from my Android phone
Very cool. Thanks for the info! I may try and get my Classic Controller + WiiMote to do the same thing via Bluetooth, which I've done before on my old G2.
Sent from my XOOM 2 ME using XDA

Wireless display / MHL

Hi,
I have tested Z1C with both Miracast dongle and MHL cable.
MHL cable is so called 5 PIN cable. The same one that works with Galaxy S2 and HTC One X.
MHL Cable works just fine.
I have also tested Miracast dongle (iPazzport). It connects slowly in Miracast mode. Screen and sound gets transferred to TV very slowly. It is basically unusable. The same dongle works just fine with Asus HD7 tablet.
DLNA mode is not usable either for video. At least not for HD content. It can be used for sound transfer. But it has minor problems also with sound only connections. I have tested with the same iPazzport HDMI dongle and WD HDTV Live box.
Please share your experience.
how is the lag for mhl? i heard some phones get quite a bit of lag.
also, what mhl adapter u use?
Gjole86 said:
how is the lag for mhl? i heard some phones get quite a bit of lag.
also, what mhl adapter u use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is definitely some lag with MHL. I can only express my gut feeling. 50-100 ms, I guess. Is there any good way to measure it?
I am using this adapter:
www.ebay.com/itm/310855110310
I ordered http://www.amazon.com/Decrescent-Adapter-Samsung-Galaxy-Smartphones/dp/B00I5J6WVY
but it will take 2 weeks more to come.
I plan to order the PS3 controller too for gaming on screen, but not sure how it will be with the lag. also not sure if these cheap ps3 controllers will work or i need the original ps3 controller. for wireless of course, not planing to use wired controllers. maybe xbox wireless can work too. testing to come.
For measuring it, the best method is to start the stopwatch and record the TV and the phone's screen with some point and shoot camera, just stop the video later after 10 seconds for example and see the difference between the times.
at least thats what i read around the net ..
MHL lag.
First, tested using timer app in phone. Took pictures containing both mobile and plasma screen.
Out of 13 shots:
0.1 s delay - 9 times
0.2 s delay - 2 times
All the rest, 1 shot had 0.1-0.3 s delay (between TV frames), another had 0 - 0.2 s delay (between TV frames again).
Second test.Used http://vimeo.com/12505989 test video.
My laptop (connected through display port->HDMI) was 100% in sync. Z1C was 2-3 frames late (on 24 fps video).
I would say, it is about 120 ms delay. And it is huge for a cable connection IMHO.
Shame, Sony, shame!!!
My other phone Galaxy S Advance did much better job with DLNA sharing.
Which means that there must be a problem with WiFi (either HW or SW).
I am really disappointed. Way too many problems with a device that was meant to be almost a flagship. I wonder if all those problems also exist with Z1 older brother as well. Or did Sony cut some corners again...
Anyone who could explain why it's necessary to switch wifi off then on again when you activate media sharing (DLNA)?
Say you sit at home, your wifi is on ofc and you like to send a pic or a track to your AVR or TV, then why does it say "please turn on wifi" when you activate media sharing...
Gjole86 said:
I ordered http://www.amazon.com/Decrescent-Adapter-Samsung-Galaxy-Smartphones/dp/B00I5J6WVY
but it will take 2 weeks more to come.
I plan to order the PS3 controller too for gaming on screen, but not sure how it will be with the lag. also not sure if these cheap ps3 controllers will work or i need the original ps3 controller. for wireless of course, not planing to use wired controllers. maybe xbox wireless can work too. testing to come.
For measuring it, the best method is to start the stopwatch and record the TV and the phone's screen with some point and shoot camera, just stop the video later after 10 seconds for example and see the difference between the times.
at least thats what i read around the net ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Official ps3 controller works great for wireless gaming through mhl, i also dont seem to suffer from any lagging? (gaming,streaming etc)
Sent from my D5503 using XDA Free mobile app
How about mirror op sender?
Has anyone tried mirror op sender & mirror op presenter on the xperia z1 compact? Seems rather fast just no audio.
Hi. Should it work with any device that has a HDMI input or it has to be with MHL support. Bought Mhl cable from eBay, phone opens Tv launcher but Nothing comes on TV.
got this jus USD3 .working well http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_k...HTC+EVO+Galaxy+S2+i9000+DJNP&_id=380898940150
MIRROR CAST is crap my lg tv has inbuilt receiver. I was soo ashamed at LG showroom when my expensive Z1c was dropping frames etc while not so expensive LG androids mirror casting really good.I hate sony for there crappy WI Fi chips
Hi All.
I've got a passive mhl cable (no external power needed), this: http://www.delock.de/produkte/G_83297/merkmale.html?setLanguage=un
What should I do with it to use with my Z1C? I connected them, but nothing on the tv screen . I missed something?
Thanks

Best mini keyboard/mousepad? Anyone else having problems with Hausbell mini h7?

What is the best wireless mini keyboard/mousepad for FTV/XBMC?
I ordered a hausbell h7 for ftv/xbmc it works but has one major problem, the HausBell often acts like i am holding the button down and getssssssssssssssssss stuck on any button be it a key or arrow button. This is obviously a huge annoyance, and happens often enough to where I plan to return it. My question is: do i have a faulty unit or is this a common issue with these?
I also have a QQ-Tech Mini Wireless Bluetooth Keyboard I can't seem to get paired anyone know if these are able to be paired via FTV bluetooth?
Zorak27 said:
What is the best wireless mini keyboard/mousepad for FTV/XBMC?
I ordered a hausbell h7 for ftv/xbmc it works but has one major problem, the HausBell often acts like i am holding the button down and getssssssssssssssssss stuck on any button be it a key or arrow button. This is obviously a huge annoyance, and happens often enough to where I plan to return it. My question is: do i have a faulty unit or is this a common issue with these?
I also have a QQ-Tech Mini Wireless Bluetooth Keyboard I can't seem to get paired anyone know if these are able to be paired via FTV bluetooth?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the exact same issue. Thinking to return it as defective.
As of now, the Amazon dev site for the fire says the HID spec for bluetooth input is limited to the game controller HID spec, as near as I can see:
https://developer.amazon.com/public...view/supporting-controllers-on-amazon-fire-tv
This is a problem if it persists, because the USB port treats directly connected and hub connected mass storage differently.
I did read recently that there's space for an SSD inside the case, but as of now no connector take it. The lan is controlled via pcie; perhaps, especially if someone was willing to sacrifice LAN for Wifi only (I would not) it would be possible to use the PCIE to add a large SSD and have a keyboard via USB?
For now, I'm finding the Logitech K400 is acceptable for what I want.
snowf0x said:
I have the exact same issue. Thinking to return it as defective.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have both the Hausbell and a Favi. The Favi works fine; the Hausbell is not usable because of the key repeat problem. I swapped the two keyboards, putting the Favi on the Fire and the Hausbell on my Raspberry Pi. I get the same results with the Hausbell on the RPI.
chilinski said:
I have both the Hausbell and a Favi. The Favi works fine; the Hausbell is not usable because of the key repeat problem. I swapped the two keyboards, putting the Favi on the Fire and the Hausbell on my Raspberry Pi. I get the same results with the Hausbell on the RPI.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May I ask which particular Favi? Thanks
moz68 said:
May I ask which particular Favi? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Favi FE01-BL Mini Keyboard with Laser Pointer
I'm thinking about the new Favi that's designed for media centers. The FE02-BT or RF (bluetooth or wireless). I haven't done any research on whether the bluetooth one will work with the Fire TV though.
roustabout said:
As of now, the Amazon dev site for the fire says the HID spec for bluetooth input is limited to the game controller HID spec, as near as I can see:
https://developer.amazon.com/public...view/supporting-controllers-on-amazon-fire-tv
This is a problem if it persists, because the USB port treats directly connected and hub connected mass storage differently.
I did read recently that there's space for an SSD inside the case, but as of now no connector take it. The lan is controlled via pcie; perhaps, especially if someone was willing to sacrifice LAN for Wifi only (I would not) it would be possible to use the PCIE to add a large SSD and have a keyboard via USB?
For now, I'm finding the Logitech K400 is acceptable for what I want.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm I wonder if its possible to use the PCIE lane to put another USB3 controller on it. Then you could use a USB network card. if you could even get the USB controller to run.
YellowGTO said:
Hmm I wonder if its possible to use the PCIE lane to put another USB3 controller on it. Then you could use a USB network card. if you could even get the USB controller to run.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the hausbel h7.. it has a major design flaw similar to the iphone.. its antennae is inside the left portion where you hold it with your hand.. Try holding it with your right hand and it should work way better (also check your battery i get repeats with a low battery sometimes).

Nvidia SHIELD TV Joy pad problem...

Ali all,
As the title says I have a prob with my joy pad on my nvidia shield.
The issue is everytime I sync my nvidia joy pad to my shield there is no
Sound coming from my TV or my TV, The volume at the top (the green bar)
Has a little muscle icon and next too it is a headphone icon. No I have no headphones plugged in. It's like the one time I plugged in my headphones it's now anytime I go to use the joy pad the shield thinks that the headphones are plugged into my shield joy pad but there now and because it thinks there plugged in no sound will play threw my TV and my soundblaster...
I have tried everything including doing reformatting my shield too factory settings so I'm at a loss on what to do!
I pray to anyone that might of had this issue or anyone that can give me help on how to fix the joy pad been muted without headphones plugged in.
It's really really getting too me because I can't play games without having headphones on and n I really don't like that...
Thanks anyone who read my post and please God someone can help!!]
LaTeRz
Hi there @RiceydDr0id,
From what you are describing there, the problem seems to be caused by the joy pad's 3.5mm connector. Basically the controller always detects that there is a headphone jack plugged in. The problem is most probably mechanical in nature and can be fixed by moving some metal parts of the 3.5 mm connector. Disassembly of the joy pad is advisable for easier access.
Cheers!

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