I am trying to find out how I can distinguish the new Kindle Fire with the larger CPU and more Memory vs the older 1ghz 512mb Kindle Fire. Before I buy used.
nFiniti said:
I am trying to find out how I can distinguish the new Kindle Fire with the larger CPU and more Memory vs the older 1ghz 512mb Kindle Fire. Before I buy used.
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Ummm.... I guess turn on the Kindle to see what version it is lol......or are you talking about exterior appearence? If thats the case.....IDK
Sent from my rooted SCH-R880 POS
The kindle fire 2gen is slightly heavier as well, but if you turn it on, the UI differences are pretty obvious, for example the lack of gradient on the bottom home button bar.
The HD fire is much easier to tell apart, it has a front facing camera, and is also wider.
I hope that helps
I'm just trying to make sure I pickup a new one if I do go with a Kindle Fire. Due to its perfect location of usb and audio port for what I do, Its perfect size too. But I am disliking the no bluetooth thing. Since I like to play games with a ps3 controller. If I go back to a Galaxy Tab 1 I have to deal with audio not working through the HDMI Dock.
I'm thinking of getting a G Pad so that I can copy RAW photos from my camera and do some basic photo viewing and processing. The tablet seems small enough to easily fit in my camera bag.
To do this, I need USB OTG (to copy files from the camera or a full size sd card) and sd card storage (for the storage capacity).
1) If I'm reading correctly, I can use a USB OTG cable with the G Pad to copy files either directly from a camera or from an sd card. This would be true with either stock or GPE.
2) If I'm reading correctly, there's no problem with reading and writing to an sd card with stock, but with GPE I'd have to root and fiddle with file permissions.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tssystems.photomate2 seems like a usable Android RAW processor that should work on the LG.
Am I missing something?
foosion said:
I'm thinking of getting a G Pad so that I can copy RAW photos from my camera and do some basic photo viewing and processing. The tablet seems small enough to easily fit in my camera bag.
To do this, I need USB OTG (to copy files from the camera or a full size sd card) and sd card storage (for the storage capacity).
1) If I'm reading correctly, I can use a USB OTG cable with the G Pad to copy files either directly from a camera or from an sd card. This would be true with either stock or GPE.
2) If I'm reading correctly, there's no problem with reading and writing to an sd card with stock, but with GPE I'd have to root and fiddle with file permissions.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tssystems.photomate2 seems like a usable Android RAW processor that should work on the LG.
Am I missing something?
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No, that sounds about right. The gpe will be slightly faster, and if you do root, there is a kernel that also has adjusted the screen (has a yellowish/grey hue to it out of the box).
Rooting is easy using both devices, and the lg version should have a flashable kernel out to fix the screen very soon as well.
My wife has the samsung 10.1 2014 edition, and I like the gpad better in terms of speed, screen, and ease of use. It shouldn't be that way, but it is. The kindle app looks waaay better on the gpad. She also is a photographer, and while she isn't into editing her photo's, the jpegs look outstanding on the gpad. Very vibrant and in my opinion, more correct.
Samsung also came out with a 8.4 inch for 500 dollars that may fit your needs, but there's an extra three bills once you get the cover.
The fix for the sd card is the same dirty hack that Sumsung implements on their tablets so there will be no native difference there. Doing the adjustment is very easy. There is a thread about it on this forum, and others.
I wouldn't hesitate to get either device for your needs. Good luck!
So, barring software compatibility, it seems possible to put an internal laptop HDD into the shield non pro-model.
The biggest issue is that the shield pro has a ribbon cable and mounting point soldered onto the secondary board that the regular 16gb model does not.
16GB model:
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500GB PRO model (image credit user takitoes ):
if you're trying to effectively solder to sata point on the board, better break out the fume hood. i fancy myself pretty handy with a soldering iron - i've pulled off a few JTAG and RGH installations in 360's, but that's not something i think i could do.
Part sourcing
I'm going to actually attempt this when I get my system finished with it's setup.
The parts I'm working with will be a 20pin FFC lobsterclaw from mouser:
<can't do outside links yet, search for: XF2M-2015-1A on mouser.com>
And from ebay an FFC to female sata header, although all I'm seeing now are male and I'm not sure how much clearance I've got inside since I didn't open mine yet.
Other than that, since it looks like there are no pitfalls to be encountered in proprietary pinout or extra circuitry, I'll toss my hat in and give it a try and post the results
Since the pro 500's pic is small there, can anyone tell which orientation pin 1 is, or maybe a larger picture of the adapter.
edit: can delete.
still need the photo
Puglife said:
I'm going to actually attempt this when I get my system finished with it's setup.
The parts I'm working with will be a 20pin FFC lobsterclaw from mouser:
<can't do outside links yet, search for: XF2M-2015-1A on mouser.com>
And from ebay an FFC to female sata header, although all I'm seeing now are male and I'm not sure how much clearance I've got inside since I didn't open mine yet.
Other than that, since it looks like there are no pitfalls to be encountered in proprietary pinout or extra circuitry, I'll toss my hat in and give it a try and post the results
Since the pro 500's pic is small there, can anyone tell which orientation pin 1 is, or maybe a larger picture of the adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
still need the photo
photo of adapter
I can't seem to find a close up photo of the adapter anywhere at all.
Since I bought the 16GB, and I don't know anyone else with a 500, it'd be great if someone could share a nice high res photo of the adapter cable.
I can put the ffc connector on there, and assume that the orientation is correct since I'm sourcing the same type of ffc connector with the claw to the back, but since I'm not keen on burning out a hdd by doing a reverse sata hookup and sending power into the data port, I'd rather not move forward without a picture.
I suppose I can probe out the pins once I have an ffc cable in there.... ugh.
Just for informations, nothing special. I appreciate your work.
From Android M every external HD or external sd card can expand your real internal storage. And it work very very well. We also have usb 3 so it can be also better.
I already tested this functionality on the Nexus Player and i assure you that will solve all your problems also with a bad read / write external storage.
For the moment i use the app foldermount that can save all my apps and games on an external sd card.
I have no doubt Google has the storage situation addressed in M, but who knows if M will ever make it to the shield outside of a custom rom. I like the way the device works now, that's the only reason I'm investing time into it, when I ignored all the other devices.
So far, this device alone is reducing my electric bill by replacing a noisy full desktop that I was using to run XBMC, I found the Pi to be too underpowered for my needs.
Shame that each new android revision is snubbed by most manufacturers in order to sell new hardware, but that's the lifecycle of electronics.
Puglife said:
Shame that each new android revision is snubbed by most manufacturers in order to sell new hardware, but that's the lifecycle of electronics.
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I'm hoping NVIDIA continues their method from the past as they're currently about to release an update to lollipop for the shield portable which was released on July 31rd, 2013 and shipped with Android Jellybean 4.2.1. If they continue this trend for the shield android tv, I expect we'll see android M on it
Puglife said:
I have no doubt Google has the storage situation addressed in M, but who knows if M will ever make it to the shield outside of a custom rom. I like the way the device works now, that's the only reason I'm investing time into it, when I ignored all the other devices.
So far, this device alone is reducing my electric bill by replacing a noisy full desktop that I was using to run XBMC, I found the Pi to be too underpowered for my needs.
Shame that each new android revision is snubbed by most manufacturers in order to sell new hardware, but that's the lifecycle of electronics.
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Click to collapse
Considering how good nvidia has been about bringing updates so far and the fact that they keep their systems almost fully stock, I have faith we'll have M before the end of the year (within a month or two of M being released)
Sent from my Nexus 6 using XDA Free mobile app
Im in to see progress of this mod
:good:
Something I'm curious about here. Can someone on the 16GB model boot my twrp build and see if /sys/devices/platform/tegra-sata.0 exists? I expect it will be and that means that this mod is possible. Though, it would be somewhat of a hack to chainload the boot to a sata hdd.
I've been doing some research on the opposite. On the pro model, the emmc is actually there, but is flat zeros (like binary diffing a dd of it and a dd of the same size from /dev/zero returns no differences). So it appears to me that the bootloaders (like pre fastboot bootloader) are looking at the internal media specific to the model. Like I said above, it should be possible to chainload back and forth. But for me, I'll likely just format and mount the unused emmc for extra storage (and likely faster r/w). Also, standard disclaimer that I haven't tried this yet, so don't blame me if you try something and it perma-bricks your device.
Puglife said:
I can't seem to find a close up photo of the adapter anywhere at all.
Since I bought the 16GB, and I don't know anyone else with a 500, it'd be great if someone could share a nice high res photo of the adapter cable.
I can put the ffc connector on there, and assume that the orientation is correct since I'm sourcing the same type of ffc connector with the claw to the back, but since I'm not keen on burning out a hdd by doing a reverse sata hookup and sending power into the data port, I'd rather not move forward without a picture.
I suppose I can probe out the pins once I have an ffc cable in there.... ugh.
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Pics attached. Hope it helps
r3zon8 said:
Pics attached. Hope it helps
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Damn, the entire cable is matte black, I was hoping I could figure out the orientation of the pins. I suppose I can guess based on that if the pins are straight through, but it looks like there's 22 total pins in a sata connection and 20 in the FFC connector.
Any chance you can give me a really close zoom of the conductive end of the FFC cable that plugs into the board so I can see if they skip pins or combine pins to isolate the signal?
Status update: I'm still waiting for the SATA board from china/ebay to assemble this, in theory I can just use a soldered off header from a junk board like ps3, or something to do this, but I wanted a clean solution with as few parts/wires as possible so it fits neatly inside.
More than likely by the time I assemble something, Ebayers will probably be posting a "replacement" cable for it.
I did already get the FFC connector installed, that was a piece of cake. I'll take pictures of it as soon as my wife stops watching Mad Men on netflix.
My hopes for this are just more addressable internal storage, not necessarily being able to boot off the hard drive.
let me know, with a closer look at the board, i think i could handle that soldering job
Did that project go anywhere? I'm very interested in doing this also if is worked.
I might be super lazy but is this cheaper and easier than just buying the pro model? What benefit does this have over going pro?
You can add in an ssd potentially that's bigger than 16gb and therefor better performance. It would also cost less if you were me and have a 120gb ssd laying around.
Has anyone addressed the issues with getting the hard drive partitions to be recognized by any software/OS and cloning the drive? This would seem to me to be the first step required before figuring out solder points, etc.
Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk
Seeing as I and the OP have the non pro, would be harder for us. That being said, I don't want it to replace the 16gb is possible, so even if it's not bootable no biggy as long as it sees it and I can put files an there.
In comparision to the 1st gen FireTV the FireTV 2 has no SP/DIF output due to the new MicroSD card slot.
So I´m interested if someone has made experience with adding a RCA Cinch or Toslink connector since probably there might be still soldering or test points on the mainboard PCB for SP/DIF output although there are not fitted with a connector.
Are there any (hi-res) pictures of the PCB available? I did look at iFixit but there is only a 1st gen aTV teardown.
If you don't mind me asking, is there a reason why you want to "hack" the circuit board instead of paying about $20 for an HDMI audio extractor?
If it's purely academic, then you have my respect.
If it's more practical, I'd be weary of destroying something in the process just to save $20. That and if you wanted optical (Toslink) instead of digital (RCA) you would already have to buy an adapter. Last, there is possibly the software aspects involved in enabling and configuring the S/PDIF. If I remember correctly (but bear in mind that my memory isn't that great as most of my friends would attest to), the original Fire TV has a settings page to configure the audio, which I would assume would be missing from the second generation FTV.
A HDMI audio extractor needs its own power supply and is still an additional device hanging around with its external power supply in my already too chaotic bunch of devices
Since it´s plugged into the HDMI chain between TV and STB there might be problems with HDCP handshaking. Also 4k isn´t supported (at least I didn't find one which does officially support 4k). So a converter is not my first choice.
On the other hand I had in the past for e.g. STBs and DVD players with enabled SPDIF and existing solder points on their main PCBs but they had no mounted connectors probably to differentiate similar models of the same device. I also wouldn´t be surprised it is similiar on the ATV2 that at the early stage of development SPDIF was specified and included in the PCB layout and just in later stages not mounted due to get space for the MicroSD option. Now with root there are also more possibilities to check/enable settings which are not in the GUI visible. IMHO for many chipsets SP/DIF doesn't need to be extra enabled since it is only a dumb hardware output for which it doesn´t make a difference if it is connected or not. The only settings is IMHO more or less just to change the output mode from PCM to Bitstream out and vice-versa.
Is there any way to get a 1TB portable drive to work with a MTCB unit?
Would it work if I could add power to the portable drive?
I'm planning on getting this MTCB KLD unit....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-2-Din-And...944270?hash=item43eef68d4e:g:i3oAAOSwH6lXQ8sl
Any and all advice is very much appreciated. Thank you
Based upon reading some reviews of android set-top boxes with the RK3188 CPU, it appears you can mount large drives that are NTFS or FAT32 formatted. Other formats may not work so well.
See here for an example: http://www.cnx-software.com/2014/09/23/em6q-mxq-review-amlogic-s805-hevc/
I'd suggest a 2.5" external HD case, since that requires no external power supply. It is powered by the USB bus alone.
A major limitation, however, is whether or not your head unit can access all of that storage. It appears the maximum USB-based storage size is 80GB, and the maximum microSD card size is 32 GB. It’s not clear if this limitation is built into the processor; I suspect it is.
See here http://autopumpkin.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=552&p=1784&hilit=storage#p1784
Also:
http://autopumpkin.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=420&p=1349&hilit=storage#p1349
See the first link for a discussion on power consumption limitations of your external hard drive. An external SSD or large capacity USB drive may be the best choice.
However, the big question remains as to what exactly you plan to do with 1 TB of storage space on your android car stereo? Do you really need to be carting all those movies and music around on an external hard drive? Are you planning on living in your car for months at a time? (I’m being somewhat facetious, here.)
One last consideration is the time it will take for your android operating system or player apps to scan through all of the files on your drive. If you have a terabyte drive full of files, it’s going to take forever for either of the above to sort through all of your files, even after you launch a player app like JetAudio or PowerAmp.
So the short answer is, go get a large 256GB flash drive, see if it will mount up and see all of the storage space, and then call it a day.
You’re welcome.
CaptShaft said:
Based upon reading some reviews of android set-top boxes with the RK3188 CPU, it appears you can mount large drives that are NTFS or FAT32 formatted. Other formats may not work so well.
See here for an example: http://www.cnx-software.com/2014/09/23/em6q-mxq-review-amlogic-s805-hevc/
I'd suggest a 2.5" external HD case, since that requires no external power supply. It is powered by the USB bus alone.
A major limitation, however, is whether or not your head unit can access all of that storage. It appears the maximum USB-based storage size is 80GB, and the maximum microSD card size is 32 GB. It’s not clear if this limitation is built into the processor; I suspect it is.
See here http://autopumpkin.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=552&p=1784&hilit=storage#p1784
Also:
http://autopumpkin.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=420&p=1349&hilit=storage#p1349
See the first link for a discussion on power consumption limitations of your external hard drive. An external SSD or large capacity USB drive may be the best choice.
However, the big question remains as to what exactly you plan to do with 1 TB of storage space on your android car stereo? Do you really need to be carting all those movies and music around on an external hard drive? Are you planning on living in your car for months at a time? (I’m being somewhat facetious, here.)
One last consideration is the time it will take for your android operating system or player apps to scan through all of the files on your drive. If you have a terabyte drive full of files, it’s going to take forever for either of the above to sort through all of your files, even after you launch a player app like JetAudio or PowerAmp.
So the short answer is, go get a large 256GB flash drive, see if it will mount up and see all of the storage space, and then call it a day.
You’re welcome.
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Worked for me with FAT32 formatted 250 GB SSD USB hard drive. I tried conventional USB drives both the 7200 RPM and 5400 RPM variety. The USB port did not have enough power to even spin them up and I didn't want to bother with external power. Also I figured a conventional hard drive will die after a while it it has to work inside a moving car and all its vibrations.
My Western Digital 500 gb usb 3.0 hdd works just like it should. The standard "music app" has trouble reading it but apps like VLC or Car Tunes do very well with it. I don't like the idea of a disc with mechanical parts in a car either so I've ordered a 250 gb ssd for my music collection since my 120 gb Ipod is obsolete now. The Ipod playback on my KLD6 is limited to 32 gb Ipods. Sold the Ipod for €100 and bought the ssd for €70 and playing mp3's with the right app is much nicer than the stupid Ipod app anyway.