Develop Bugs

solder points for inductive mod

I am looking for the points in need to solder the wire at.
I am looking for something similar to this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1557923
If you look at his third picture he soldered it to a resistor because he thought it was easier that way. I would prefer the same thing. Unfortunately this is the guts of an ATT S2 and it seems dif than our tmobile one.
If someone could provide this with a nice pic pointing out the spot that would be great!
Thanks.

now i dont know about any solder points but what i did was to remove the back pannel and exposed the the carger port which is connnected to the usb port..then i went to my local hobby shop (here in the midwest i went to hobby lobby) and $6.99 later i purchased copper tape. what i had done was to look at the battery which is labled where the positive and negitive terminals and laid the copper strips accordingly, now on the other side i made sure that the inductive coil was also in line so that when i placed the battery cover on the back of the unit it will touch the copper tace lines. All i have left is to see if if the touchstone works ( i still have yet to purchase that...) and it will be complete. Now also i have the verision galaxy nexus extended battery installed and some how it all fits. once i have figured out how to get the pictures to show up from my flicker account i will repost them.....heres some quickie links (backdoor) http://goo.gl/6a4YY when i get my other camera back i will post a pic of the inside with battery

I am sorry but the charger port that is linked tot he USB port?
Not sure what you mean. Can you please clarify?

please forgive the neebie question what you are trying to do....what is the purpose.
Thanks for your reply in advance.

yepvegas said:
please forgive the neebie question what you are trying to do....what is the purpose.
Thanks for your reply in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As the link in my original post says basically i want a wireless charging system called inductive charging.
Something similiar to this too that i found on the forum:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=26443496&postcount=34
I want to take the wireless charger of a palm pre and modify it to work with my S2.
I need to take the charging coil and preferably solder it to the point on the S2 board where the charging takes place though the USB plug.
The guy in second link basically linked it to the battery contacts, i am not sure how safe that is since it bypasses most of the resistors and charging components of the board.
So hoping someone can help point out where i can do the positive and negative charging contact points on the board.

Awesome! found what i needed here. Will post when i do my similar mod.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=26610417&postcount=40

Wireless charging mod.

I cannot wait for the official galaxy S3 wireless charging kit to come out.
I got inspired by the Galaxy mod that was done by using parts from a Palm Touchstone cover.
ww.qianqin.de/2011/09/28/high-waf-inductive-charging-mod/
I am pretty sure, that I don't need to do an intrusive operation as the one in the link - I believe that Samsung made pins ready for it under the cover.
Does anyone know what the two 'pins' that are exposed to the left of the battery are for?
Thanks!

There are countless threads regarding the "pins", wireless charging kits, and that mod.

I have a touchstone. And a back, and would like to see if anyone has applied this to the S3 and made it work
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium

I have a feeling the wireless charging module will interact somehow with the two pins next to the battery. I was planning on attempting this mod using these pins but without a multimeter i am unable to tell whether these pins can be used and which way round to wire them up. If anyone can assist i would be grateful.

BungeBash said:
There are countless threads regarding the "pins", wireless charging kits, and that mod.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. Countless threads about the mod for the Galaxy S, but I haven't been able to find anything about pins on the Galaxy SIII.
- Maybe I'm just bad at searching, believe me I have tried!

I also would love to know if and how someone gets their sgs3 working with the palm touchstone! Hope it is not too difficult!

pcyyijb said:
I have a feeling the wireless charging module will interact somehow with the two pins next to the battery. I was planning on attempting this mod using these pins but without a multimeter i am unable to tell whether these pins can be used and which way round to wire them up. If anyone can assist i would be grateful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have finally managed to find a page that claimt that the two pins next to the battery indeed are for wireless charging.
ww.trustedreviews.com/samsung-galaxy-s3_Mobile-Phone_review
Only problem is, I don't know Trusted Reviews - so I don't know how 'Trusted' they are?
All I need now is to find out which pin is 0V and which is +5V. (I'm pretty sure that the current is the same as the Palm cover provides.

Every accessories are always made for on pin, hdmi,wireless kit etc. Always Samsung market tactics.
I wish you'll do it.

Upper pin is plus, lower minus - and it has also be done!
http://www.android-hilfe.de/zubehoe...-samsung-galaxy-s3-ohne-kabel-aufladen-6.html
I'm also trying to do that, hopefully it works

N23 said:
Upper pin is plus, lower minus - and it has also be done!
http://www.android-hilfe.de/zubehoe...-samsung-galaxy-s3-ohne-kabel-aufladen-6.html
I'm also trying to do that, hopefully it works
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it works, it will be a little slower, im only seeing 450mah going in as opposed to about 1000mah
But that doesnt matter in the slightest as i mostly charge overnight

that is great news! That does not look too difficult and it looks as NFC is not touched. Just the translation is difficult and not knowing what samsung wireless charging is about.
I also wonder how snug the fit is after adding the magnets from the touchstone back cover?

I will post details soon when i am back home
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium

I'm still waiting for my touchstone and palm battery cover to arrive...

I found this! He looks like he did a great job. I am just curious if he had to solder anything to the phone?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAqP3T_Mbzg

yes he did, i'm gonna try it with just tape - his solder blobs seems to be huge and because of the the cover makes this bulge... maybe then it will fit perfectly
the samsung wireless charger looks nice but i like the idea with the magnets of the touchstone!

please post pictures and a possible video. This is so interesting!

i'll do as soon i get the touchstone kit and have some spare time to do this (hopefully on sunday...)

what happens when you place an induction charging compatible device on an induction cooking range? Will it charge the battery, or will it overload the circuitry and destroy the phone\battery?

I wonder what happens when you plug in the phone with usb while it's inductively charging.

Zabalba said:
I wonder what happens when you plug in the phone with usb while it's inductively charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would think they would work together or one would be disabled by the other. Don't think they would allow both if it could cause damage.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

USB Charging port Burned

Hello,
I just had my HOX USB port burnt.
It was charging when I notice the battery was very low and no red led.
I had it previously charged in car, so it might have being some kind of spike current/voltage, I suppose.
Plugin into the computer, no sign of USB connection (even thru dmesg).
This would be a simple case of sent it back to HTC for a replacement/repair. However, I am in Brazil and things never goes as supposed to here.
I contact HTC here and basically the HOX is not supported in Brasil, they simple do not care whatever I do about it. So I am on my own.
As I know there are some people here with repair knowledge, I would really appreciate any help.
As I had some battery before it fully discharged, I could test that everything else was fine (or seems to be).
I am assuming that there is some protection in the port to avoid this kind of situation to fry everything else.
I thought about using the pogo pins to charge until I get this fixed, so I ordered HTC's dock and a battery case from Mugen Power. But after I test charging gnd on pogo pin 1 and Vcc on pin 5, It seems that they are indeed connected to the usb port. Which is the correct as it shall use the same protection.
So, I found this one as the replacement port:
can't post link yet, bu it is this one on bay . com:
/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200732783334
Right now, I need to know if I am on the right track.
Replacing the port is enough? or should I look into replacing some onboard capacitors/resistors/ICs as part of the protection circuitry?
Thanks for you patience!

rsd2000 said:
Hello,
Right now, I need to know if I am on the right track.
Replacing the port is enough? or should I look into replacing some onboard capacitors/resistors/ICs as part of the protection circuitry?
Thanks for you patience!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im not an electritian but i think some of the circuitry might be burnt , unless the port contains the electrical components .
If i were you, i would just take everything to a respectable phone-repair center they have good technicians , Good luck
EDIT: if the problem is with the port connections/soldering then replacing the port is enough

Vcek said:
Im not an electritian but i think some of the circuitry might be burnt , unless the port contains the electrical components .
If i were you, i would just take everything to a respectable phone-repair center they have good technicians , Good luck
EDIT: if the problem is with the port connections/soldering then replacing the port is enough
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I am going to do.
As this model is not sold directly here, I plan to get there with all replacement parts that might be needed and info.
I suppose I wont find anyone here (Brazil) with expertise on HOX.
I read sometime ago in here that there is a HTC repair manual in a FAQ style, this would help a lot.

Just to make a long story short.
There is no protection from a peak energy in the USB charging port.
Some tracks inside the mainboard burned being reparation.
The device worked connected to the USB but dont charge the battery.

DIY QI Charger Question

I have opened up a cheap QI Wireless charger for a DIY project, I am looking to extend the distance between the PCB and and the coil but not sure what type of cable to use or where to get it from. I am assuming it would be copper cable of some kind? Anyone done the same or got any advice?

I was about to write that a pair of thick wires will do (something at least as thick as the ones in the coil). Then I did a search on Google and checked another thread that I happened to have opened a few seconds after yours (just checked the new threads in this section).
So check this guys contraption. I don't know if there's a difference in charging time due to the mentioned cables, but I guess he's the one with the most experience around here.

daniel_loft said:
I was about to write that a pair of thick wires will do (something at least as thick as the ones in the coil). Then I did a search on Google and checked another thread that I happened to have opened a few seconds after yours (just checked the new threads in this section).
So check this guys contraption. I don't know if there's a difference in charging time due to the mentioned cables, but I guess he's the one with the most experience around here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. That thread is where I got my inspiration from and you may notice that is it only back near the top of the forum because I asked my question there too shortly before starting this topic.

Just be careful where you put it, not to have a too thick panel between the coil and the phone. It will reduce the charging efficiency.

Please help - burned USB port on MTCC

Hi,
I bought a USB camera for my head unit (MTCC-KLD6-V2.91) from AliExpress, connected it (using a USB port which gets the power from the car, while the data gets into the head unit), and got a picture . After few seconds, it suddenly disappeared, so i did what i thought was wise - and tried the a different USB port (which gets the power directly from the head unit), but no still picture (i said - ohh well, cheap camera)
Trying to understand if that's a camera or a headunit issue, i tried to connect it to my PC, which happily was more sophisticated than the head unit, and notified me that the USB port is trying to consume too much power and got disconnected, well - that's a bummer! try to connect it again through a USB current meter - and it was shut down immediately - turns out the USB connector was defective, and when bent, was shortening the power lines.
I cut it out - replaced the connector, and got the camera to work (on my PC), but i wasn't so lucky with the head unit or the power adapter connected to the car, both aren't working anymore (the head unit works well - only the USB port isn't)
So I opened the head unit (hoping to see some burned fuse) - but no visible damage
Does anyone have an idea where/what to look for?
[ I'm not sure if the forum rules allows me to post link to the product i bought - but if anyone interested, message me and i'll be happy to share the link]
Thanks.

Burned USB
Hello, could you switch ON your WiFi interface on this headunit? Please send me a link to your headunit type. Maybe i can help you. BR Radek

ZelenyR said:
Hello, could you switch ON your WiFi interface on this headunit? Please send me a link to your headunit type. Maybe i can help you. BR Radek
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm not sure i follow...
the device works well, everything but the USB port seems to not be affected by the shortage (so yes - i can turn on the wifi interface).
my device is :
MCU version：
MTCC-KLD6-V2.91
May 31 2016 19:54:14
Android version：
5.1.1
1024*600
Kernel version：
3.0.101+
[email protected] #11
Thu Jun 30 11:25:16 CST 2016
Build number：
rk3188-userdebug 22062016.17:05:11

burned USB
One day before I repaired one headunit with same issue and also reason of defect was same - high current from 5V supply on USB interface . Repaired MTCC has also another symptom and it was WiFi issue - when I tried to switch on WiFi interface system after few seconds switched it OFF. The reason is very simple - on that MTCC was supply of WiFi module connected to same 5V as USB ports.
5V on your mainboard will be probably generated by switching supply source and its current capability is bigger than 4A but this supply voltage is distributed to many subsystems and each trunk is switched by MOSFET. In my case weak point was inductor connected between 5V power supply and switching MOSFET. This inductor was burned by overcurrent . I think that in your case it will be similar. It is necessary to find path on PCB between supply source and +5V USB pin and on this path will be probably burned inductor. All is highly dependent on type of used mainboard.
BR Radek

Attached is an annotated image of my Klyde main board labeled KD-HCT-MB 2015/07/18 Rev-3.1 1535. The two switching regs on the right are controlled by the MCU; the upper one (U25) supplies the USB hub through transistors (Q8 & Q9) which are controlled by MCU pin 38. On my board there is an inductor (L14) near the USB device (U11) which supplies power to it. If you have a similar main board, that may be your inductor.

Burned USB
Hello, this is exactly picture of my repaired PCB. Inductor close to USB is used for separating path used for supply WiFi module ( there is 3.3V LDO supplied after MOSFET switch from this path close to WiFi). I don´t remember exact number of inductor but in my case was burned L16 ??? which is located on your PCB in group of components is on left side of the MCU under video switch, in middle of line of component above two electrolytic capacitors. This inductor is connected directly to 5V switching supply on one side and on oposite side is connected switching MOSFET which provides supply to USB ports (here is connected other inductor close the big black multiconnector).
BR Radek

ZelenyR said:
Hello, this is exactly picture of my repaired PCB. Inductor close to USB is used for separating path used for supply WiFi module ( there is 3.3V LDO supplied after MOSFET switch from this path close to WiFi). I don´t remember exact number of inductor but in my case was burned L16 ??? which is located on your PCB in group of components is on left side of the MCU under video switch, in middle of line of component above two electrolytic capacitors. This inductor is connected directly to 5V switching supply on one side and on oposite side is connected switching MOSFET which provides supply to USB ports (here is connected other inductor close the big black multiconnector).
BR Radek
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes that group also includes the Q8 and Q9 I mentioned.

my device is :
MCU version：
MTCC-KLD6-V2.97
Android version：
5.1.1
1024*600
Kernel version：
3.0.101+
it is completely happened the same to me. When I did install my head unit it did have a smoke came out from my head unit look like something burned inside which look like burn by over current and then my wifi cannot work.
But can i ask how can test which compontent is broken and even i find out how can i replace it.
Look like the all the compontent is surface mount.
Thanks a lot.

Help!!! USB short circuit - USB and WiFi not working!
Hi
I have a similar issue. When cabling my car with a USB cable connected to my MTCB head unit I accidentally created a short circuit. I could see - and smell - the smoke.
The USBs and the WiFi are NOT working now. Everything else still works.
There is no signal at VCC pins in the USB ports and the WiFi is not working, so I presume the issue can be similar to what @ZelenyR and @dhmsjs described.
My board is a KGL-A90-MAIN-v06.1 - slightly different from @dhmsjs 's one.
I am posting the links to two pictures I just took - (sorry, the system won't let me attach them or add a link)
- Pic #1 (imageshack.com/a/img922/9544/VQeiqx.jpg). It shows the whole board, as a reference
- Pic #2 (imageshack.com/a/img924/4956/pfTsmB.png). It double-clicks into what I understand as the potentially faulty groups according to the info in this thread. I can't see any clear evidence of a burnt component; I can however notice some possible damage signs in the MOSFET (A79TF) (in yellow in the picture, look at that form of a 'bubble' in the middle of the component), but I am not entirely sure the component is damaged. The inductors L10 and L19 show continuity when measuring their resistance as well.
I would start replacing the MOSFET and - possibly - the inductors. Could you please help me:
(1) What type of SMD inductors do I need to use?
(2) Any idea looking at my board?
Many thanks!

santibiotico said:
...I can't see any clear evidence of a burnt component; I can however notice some possible damage signs in the MOSFET (A79TF) (in yellow in the picture, look at that form of a 'bubble' in the middle of the component), but I am not entirely sure the component is damaged. The inductors L10 and L19 show continuity when measuring their resistance as well.
I would start replacing the MOSFET and - possibly - the inductors. Could you please help me:
(1) What type of SMD inductors do I need to use?
(2) Any idea looking at my board?
Many thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Given that the lnductors show continuity they are probably okay; I wouldn't try to replace them. Yes the MOSFET may likely be blown, especially if it has a "bubble" on it. That's what I would replace first.

Finally got to try and fix my unit
after trying all kind of 'external' fixes (such as getting USB to work by connecting an external 12v to 5v converter - which was faulty and caused my canbus decoder to always get 12v on the ignition wire - and yes, i tried to pull 12v from the canbus decoder ignition wire), i decided it's time to try and fix it in the right way.
i followed your advice - and found a path to the USB Vcc wire from the 7805 regulator, and i was kind of surprised - i have 5v (well, almost, 4.8) on the USB output, I connected some USB device - and the voltage dropped to 1.3v.
i narrowed it down to some component before the USB output, which has 5v on on end, and 4.8v on the other end, when i connect a USB device - the voltage on the 5v end stays 5v, but dropped to 1.3 on the other end - so i guess, eureka?
Now i just need to understand what is this component - where to get a replacement one and how to replace it (see attached image)
can you help identifying the component?
Thanks.

mrtowel said:
...can you help identifying the component?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your board is different from mine, but very similar. On my board that component is labeled "L2" I think, although the printing is very poor so I can't be sure.
If yours is labeled L-something, then it is most certainly an inductor. They should normally have a very low resistance (a few ohms at most) and from the behavior you describe it sounds like this one has a fairly high resistance. So an easy check to confirm that would be to measure the resistance of the part with an ohmmeter. A high resistance would confirm that it is damaged.
As for replacement, I suspect that this is another case of a noise filter -- its purpose is to block electrical noise from the outside world from coming into the unit. But the only way to know for sure would be to draw out the whole circuit from 7805 to the USB port.
If it is just a noise filter then its value is probably not critical (any value of inductance is better than none), and for a test at least, you could just try jumpering across it. If that jumper gives you a solid 5v on the USB output, then that would also confirm that the inductor is the cause of your problem.
Make sure that the device you use to test the USB does not use much power! For instance your camera is probably not a good choice for testing.

dhmsjs said:
Your board is different from mine, but very similar. On my board that component is labeled "L2" I think, although the printing is very poor so I can't be sure.
If yours is labeled L-something, then it is most certainly an inductor. They should normally have a very low resistance (a few ohms at most) and from the behavior you describe it sounds like this one has a fairly high resistance. So an easy check to confirm that would be to measure the resistance of the part with an ohmmeter. A high resistance would confirm that it is damaged.
As for replacement, I suspect that this is another case of a noise filter -- its purpose is to block electrical noise from the outside world from coming into the unit. But the only way to know for sure would be to draw out the whole circuit from 7805 to the USB port.
If it is just a noise filter then its value is probably not critical (any value of inductance is better than none), and for a test at least, you could just try jumpering across it. If that jumper gives you a solid 5v on the USB output, then that would also confirm that the inductor is the cause of your problem.
Make sure that the device you use to test the USB does not use much power! For instance your camera is probably not a good choice for testing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Eureka indeed, i soldered a jumper instead of the faulted inductor, and everything seems to work
do you think i better solder a replacement? or i'm all good with a simple jumper?

mrtowel said:
Eureka indeed, i soldered a jumper instead of the faulted inductor, and everything seems to work
do you think i better solder a replacement? or i'm all good with a simple jumper?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Congrats! The designers put that inductor there for a reason (why add the cost otherwise?) so a jumper is probably not the best solution. But if it works for you, that's what matters most. It's your choice which way to go.

dhmsjs said:
Congrats! The designers put that inductor there for a reason (why add the cost otherwise?) so a jumper is probably not the best solution. But if it works for you, that's what matters most. It's your choice which way to go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sure it's there for a reason, i'm just wondering what's the expected impact by not having that? less resilient to "noisy" USB devices? for me it actually protected the rest of the circuit from the over current.
if i'd like to replace it, what should i get? there is no indication of what exactly the value of it (in whatever unit inductors are measured)

mrtowel said:
I'm sure it's there for a reason, i'm just wondering what's the expected impact by not having that? less resilient to "noisy" USB devices? for me it actually protected the rest of the circuit from the over current.
if i'd like to replace it, what should i get? there is no indication of what exactly the value of it (in whatever unit inductors are measured)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not USB devices so much as noise from the car's electrical system (spark plugs for example). Automotive environments are notoriously bad places for electronics to live in happily.
The units of inductance are "henries" or in this case microhenries. No way to tell the value now and I don't have a suitable meter so I can't measure mine. But again the value probably isn't critical, and any inductance is better than none. If you do want to replace it a good first order approximation might be to find one that is physically the same size. Pick one that's toward the upper end of the inductance range available for that physical size and you'll likely be fine.

Thank you so much... I fixed my wifi issue
Hi Guys, I've been reading this thread and fixed the wifi of my head unit MTCC-KLD6-V2.86... Like all here, all of sudden the wifi wouldnt switch on... After opening the unit and examining the main board, the L19 inductor was burnt (charcoaled ). As my electronic skills are very basic, I did what someone did here - to jumper the failed inductor and Voila!!! the wifi is back on working. I know there's a risk with this and simplest solution is not to use the USB cable that comes with the unit. I am happy with accessing internet via wifi/hotspot.. Hope this helps someone out there.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzVz3275lE4aN3RNUGlpTE5rZVlXWmowckhGbHRtbm5PNGhz[/URL]
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzVz3275lE4aNmFZQWx0ZVB1NkxiT2cxZ0V3SUVUaFRBLVNj[/URL]
---------- Post added at 07:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:49 AM ----------
mbchaves said:
Hi Guys, I've been reading this thread and fixed the wifi of my head unit MTCC-KLD6-V2.86... Like all here, all of sudden the wifi wouldnt switch on... After opening the unit and examining the main board, the L19 inductor was burnt (charcoaled ). As my electronic skills are very basic, I did what someone did here - to jumper the failed inductor and Voila!!! the wifi is back on working. I know there's a risk with this and simplest solution is not to use the USB cable that comes with the unit. I am happy with accessing internet via wifi/hotspot.. Hope this helps someone out there.
"https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzVz3275lE4aN3RNUGlpTE5rZVlXWmowckhGbHRtbm5PNGhz/view"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Good info here

dhmsjs said:
Attached is an annotated image of my Klyde main board labeled KD-HCT-MB 2015/07/18 Rev-3.1 1535. The two switching regs on the right are controlled by the MCU; the upper one (U25) supplies the USB hub through transistors (Q8 & Q9) which are controlled by MCU pin 38. On my board there is an inductor (L14) near the USB device (U11) which supplies power to it. If you have a similar main board, that may be your inductor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dhmsjs said:
Attached is an annotated image of my Klyde main board labeled KD-HCT-MB 2015/07/18 Rev-3.1 1535. The two switching regs on the right are controlled by the MCU; the upper one (U25) supplies the USB hub through transistors (Q8 & Q9) which are controlled by MCU pin 38. On my board there is an inductor (L14) near the USB device (U11) which supplies power to it. If you have a similar main board, that may be your inductor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello. Sorry I reply here but I have got very similar main board as yours. I lost USB and wifi. What do you think what can be reason of that? Can you help me? I took off inductor L14. Can be that? Thank you and sorry

If you "took off" the inductor then yes that would disable the USB. In this situation the correct thing to do to "remove" the inductor from the circuit is to jumper across it. But why did you want to "take off" the inductor? Was it damaged? If the answer is yes, then you want to jumper across it, not remove it from the board.