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I have a tomtom bluetooth gps receiver that I used to use with my xda-ii for my satnav solution. I had a car charger that charged the xda and tomtom unit at once. I have now upgraded to the Exec and am hoping to find a similar car charger but couldnt find any on google/ebay - does anybody know of one that exists?
Thanks
Allan
Cannot be of help, but looking for the exact same solution. I had an iMate JAM and a cradle that charged that (mini-USB) and had an output for TomTom Bluetooth. If all else fails I could try taking apart the adapter because it has the correct output, just the Exec won't fit in it!
assuming the TOMTOM gps receiver uses a round 5V center positive connector to charge it ( which it almost certainly would do )
then check out my posts in this thread,
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=29351
the cradle even comes with a wire just for charging BT GPS receivers
Ouch! Thats a little pricey!
I already have a mount that holds the unit, so I am just looking for a calbe charger solution. Anyone have any links?
Thanks
Allan
in that case I have seen a car lighter plug on ebay that has a USB socket in the back, it was on £3~£4 you could then use a regular sync and charge cable to charge it
o2 shops are now stocking the car charging lead... complete with natty o2 shaped blue indicator!
To get round the problem of daisy chaining mounts and receivers, I got a great car charger - dual usb adapter from eBay (I searched for "dual usb car") which gives you 2 usb sockets for about £8 all in. Having bought this though, I'm thinking of installing a spare cigarette lighter socket behind the dash to power it from and cut down on cables in the cabin...
Funnily enough, the many Sync and charge cables for the Sony PSP would be able to simultaneously charge both a Jasjar and a bluetooth GPS unit
here is an example
http://chakatche.fr/catalog/images/PSP/CablesyncchargePSP_big.gif
Universal charger- special
The Universal as well as the Typhoon, Wizard etc. need special wiring for the mini USB. when connecting to the computer the the driver is activating the proper pins in the Mini USB socket and you can see the "charge" light on. However when connecting to a USB Poer Supply, pins need to be manipulated (some to ground or perhaps to Vcc). I'v looked into this issue many times (searching in the Internet) and could not find a proper wiring diagram. although I know for sure that they are exist as there are some Car working chargers offered for Universal / Typhoon.
In any case refering to this thread, a car charger that works for Jam/XDA2Mini most probably will not work for the Jasjar/Universal unless i is apecified as a Universal car charger.
If any of the memebers has come a cross a wiring diagram for Typhoon / Universal charging scheme it is appreciated if you could provide details.. as many of us would like to build their own car charging units.
Re: Universal charger- special
Dubi said:
The Universal as well as the Typhoon, Wizard etc. need special wiring for the mini USB. when connecting to the computer the the driver is activating the proper pins in the Mini USB socket and you can see the "charge" light on. However when connecting to a USB Poer Supply, pins need to be manipulated (some to ground or perhaps to Vcc). I'v looked into this issue many times (searching in the Internet) and could not find a proper wiring diagram. although I know for sure that they are exist as there are some Car working chargers offered for Universal / Typhoon.
In any case refering to this thread, a car charger that works for Jam/XDA2Mini most probably will not work for the Jasjar/Universal unless i is apecified as a Universal car charger.
If any of the memebers has come a cross a wiring diagram for Typhoon / Universal charging scheme it is appreciated if you could provide details.. as many of us would like to build their own car charging units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude, what are you talking about !! I use the sync lead from my kodak camera to charge my JJ from my laptop it works fine but is slow (my laptop hasnt got much umph) and the same goes for the PSP power lead I mentioned earlier, I use that in the car with my cradle that happens to have USB sockets in it, (pictured in another thread)
It seems that either your usb lead has the proper connection to fit the requirements of the JJ or I am doing something wrong that I am not aware of.
Here is the test: Just take a Powered USB Hub, connect XDA1, XDA2, XDA Mini, XDA2S (all the models that I could test right now) and It seems that the Powered USB Hub can charge these devices.
Now connect the JJ (I suggest with a traditional USB syc cable that comes with either ..) and NADA I got no indication for charging .. than connect the HUB to the your computer which has the ASYNC installed and you see that immidiatly the JJ is being charged. Both feeding measured at 5.15V.
The Typhoon behaves the same for me as well.
Further more, I have few USB chargers (other than the one equipped with the JJ) which is in fact a PS with a USB port . The result of connecting the PS through the traditional sync cable is "No Charging".
The same applied to many Car USB charger that I'v tried.
Perhaps your Kodak sync cable is special (in fact I am looking for the schematic diagram of a cable like this)?.
I tried (just now again) also with Dopod 828 and it seem the same (no charging unless it is connected to the computer).
Please double check your charger cable and try th sync cable that comes with the JJ.
I dont see why kodak would have used a special sync lead, because on the kodaks it is used for data only (power comes in via a diffrent connector) when I get a chance I will buzz out the cable for you !!!
PS I think you shold plug it in and wait, mine starts charging instantaneously when used with the mains adaptor which has 1 Amp of current available, but takes a min or two to start charging when I am using my laptop/in car charger, both of which only have 500mA available.
Car Charge
From reading other threads, Pin 4 in the Mini USB is shorted to ground and that's probably turn on charging ..
I suggest that you read threads about the power charge / car charge in other forums... here is an example I took and although it talks about the Typhoon it is relevant to JJ as well and it suggest to connect pin 4 and 5 to ground. I can't have a good explanation why your JJ starts to charge after 2 monutes. I suspect that it has nothing to do with the current that can b drawn from the PS.
http://www.expansys.com/forumthread.asp?code=I-MATE_SP3I&thread=38
Here's what I've found on modaco.com forums, posted by richwookie on Oct.4 2004:
QUOTE >>>
...I've hacked open my C500 mains charger (quick, where's the superglue), and sure enough there are only 2 wires leaving the box to the mini USB cable, GND (black wire) and VO (white wire). However, after very careful probing, with a very tiny probe no less, I've established that the GND wire is connected to both pins 4 and 5 of the mini USB connector.
Now usually pin 4 would be not connected to anything as pin 5 is normally GND. So next I probed the C500 data cable to see if pins 4 and five of the mini USB were connected together. They weren't of course.
So what does all this mean?
Well, from what I've discovered I conclude that the C500 will only charge if:
1) There is data on the line (even if it isn't saying anything :wink: )
OR
2) Pin 4 of the mini USB plug is grounded.
So what's the solution to making the generic car chargers work?
Do nothing to the car charger. Mod the data cable so that pin 4 at the 'mini' end is connected to ground.
This IS all speculation and I suspect that it is easier said than done. I haven't yet hacked open my data cable, but I expect there are only four wires in it, and the only way to ground pin 4 (mini end) is to somehow bridge them at the connector. I think that is beyond my soldering skills (have you seen the size of the contacts on the plug?!) but I may give it a go anyway.
Anyone else want to try? Let us know here.
<<< UNQUOTE
... and the 2 hours later:
QUOTE >>>
Posted from my SmartPhone while it is charging in my car using a 1.49 cigarette lighter USB adaptor and my newly modded C500 data cable!
I'll let you know if it still works as a data cable when I get home. ;-)
....
Modded cable doesn't work for data now.
When I connect it to the PC it just charges. I suspect that when the phone is in 'charge from adaptor mode' it inhibits the data lines.
<<< UNQUOTE
Well, I guess it's simpler to mod a USB cable, than either carry around a charger, or install Activesync everywhere.
With all this chat about modifying pins etc call me naieve but why not just buy a dedicated charger from expansys or an o2 store ? both cost between £10 - £15
:shock:
Just an observation I have made... I have an O2 EXEC, and charge it quite happily (sort of) with the Standard USB Synch cable and a Car Lighter Socket USB thingy.
The only thing is... It will NOT charge if the EXEC is on (screen lit up) when the USB lead is connected or power connected. Switch the device off, connect the lead, and the charging light comes on.
I find the same when I connect it to the computer with the Synch lead too. It won't connect to ActiveSync or Charge if the EXEC is on when connected.
Hope this helps.
I'm considering upgrading from my Galaxy S (with voodoo sound and wolfson chip) to Galaxy S3. I'm on Bell. I understand that north-american version does not have wolfson chip and audio is worse than original S with voodoo. I use it for relatively high-quality aftermarket car audio using analog out to audio aux-in.
What are my options for S3? What's the cheapest usb dac I can use with north-american s3 and where to get it in Canada or US online?
Is there any guide about how to set it up?
Thanks!
Note: I reposted it to Q&A where it's more appropriate, but can't find how to delete it here...
it doesn't have the same sound chip???!!? what the hell.. deal breaker! is this true?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
midirt said:
I understand that north-american version does not have wolfson chip and audio is worse than original S with voodoo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No wolfson chip for NA version hopefully we get Voodoo kernel soon. Until then, some people have had success using a Fiio e7 plugged into their S3 using USB OTG. As for how they did it, I have no clue.
mtl171 said:
No wolfson chip for NA version hopefully we get Voodoo kernel soon. Until then, some people have had success using a Fiio e7 plugged into their S3 using USB OTG. As for how they did it, I have no clue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did some research on this. Apparently it's possible to plug in a whole bunch of USB OTG devices, including many USB DACs. However as USB port is occupied - they suck power from the phone and phone itself cannot be charged at the same time. There are cables that you can inject USB power but in Galaxy S3 case - only to devices, the phone itself switches to "give power" mode when working in USB ORG mode and does not accept charge over USB. This is a bummer, as there is no way it can hold a battery for long while playing music and working as GPS in a car.
There is a guy on another forum who mentioned that it's possible to force S3 to accept charge with change in kernel (that means it won't power other USB devices, but they can be powered via injected power), but this is beyond my ability. We need somebody who knows how to do this to either build an app, or do a kernel version (semaphore?) or both, that have this module disabled on demand.
Here's what he said:
" However, I was able to modify this kernel to make it accept a charge while in OTG host mode. A Y-cable is connecting my phone to a powered USB hub. The hub has a USB-to-Ethernet dongle, connected to a router. The hub is also powering the Gnex via the other end of the Y-cable. The phone can now, say, act as a WiFi access point (wired + 3G!) and it's battery level will never drop below 100% or 99%. One disadvantage: in a real on-the-go situation, this kernel will not anymore power slave devices. One could fix this by allowing the user to switch between OTG host mode charge-out (default) vs. OTG host mode charge-in."
" On the Galaxy Nexus, removing the complete body of method tuna_set_vbus_drive() in arch/arm/mach-omap2/board-tuna-connector.c will disable charging of OTG slave devices and will allow the OTG host itself to be charged. The battery icon will not be updated by this modification alone."
SUCCESS!!! I can confirm that this USB OTG cable (http://ebayitem.com/190710044655) DOES CHARGE MY GALAXY S3! I plugged in USB cardreader with SD card into the phone through this cable (it lit up and card is fully readable), then plugged USB cable end into PC and phone showed a charging icon! Moreover, after waiting for 5 min. with screen off (cardreader still glowing blue and working) battery has gone up from %72 to %75 (and while I was writing this, to 78%), so it is indeed charging! Yay! It probably won't get up in the car, where just phone alone is "not discharging" at best from the car adapter, but at least it should allow me to listen to music with quality DAC and use navigation without (or with minimal) discharging.
I have not tested it with USB DAC that I intend to use for my car (Behringer UCA222), because I have to go out and buy it. Hopefully it works. Anyway, this cable definitely works with simultaneously charging my north-american Samsung Galaxy S3 (from Bell Canada) while powering USB cardreader!
Somebody else has mentioned that another cable (http://ebayitem.com/120980364117) also worked in his Galaxy S2.
SUCCESS!!! I can confirm that this USB OTG cable (http://ebayitem.com/190710044655) DOES CHARGE MY GALAXY S3! I plugged in USB cardreader with SD card into the phone through this cable (it lit up and card is fully readable), then plugged USB cable end into PC and phone showed a charging icon! Moreover, after waiting for 5 min. with screen off (cardreader still glowing blue and working) battery has gone up from %72 to %75 (and while I was writing this, to 78%), so it is indeed charging! Yay! It probably won't get up in the car, where just phone alone is "not discharging" at best from the car adapter, but at least it should allow me to listen to music with quality DAC and use navigation without (or with minimal) discharging.
I have not tested it with USB DAC that I intend to use for my car (Behringer UCA222), because I have to go out and buy it. Hopefully it works. Anyway, this cable definitely works with simultaneously charging my north-american Samsung Galaxy S3 (from Bell Canada) while powering USB cardreader!
Somebody else has mentioned that another cable (http://ebayitem.com/120980364117) also worked in his Galaxy S2.
Sorry for double post, I posted it by mistake and can't delete the post. Button says "edit/delete" but there is no delete option, just edit...
I bought Behringer UCA222 USB DAC and tested it in my car with the USB OTG cable with power that I mentioned. It works great! And the phone is indicating a charge. Sometimes when first playing music after plugging the device it sounds like fast forward for a few seconds (I guess clock rate mismatch or something similar), but after the presumably clock is locked it plays perfectly fine.
There is a big list of working DACs in the official sound quality thread, along with a lot of other good information.
midirt,
I am working on a car setup like this and would like to ask a question. Somewhere I read that you had to plug microUSB into phone before plugging into DAC in order for it to work. Is this true for you? It would be a pain to have to unplug everything each time you get in car.
BaronInkjet said:
midirt,
I am working on a car setup like this and would like to ask a question. Somewhere I read that you had to plug microUSB into phone before plugging into DAC in order for it to work. Is this true for you? It would be a pain to have to unplug everything each time you get in car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually I just plug entire setup into the phone and it works fine. Sometimes when I shut off the engine and start it up (there is power interruption) I have to re-plug the DAC.
midirt said:
Usually I just plug entire setup into the phone and it works fine. Sometimes when I shut off the engine and start it up (there is power interruption) I have to re-plug the DAC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Are you happy with the Behringer unit?
BaronInkjet said:
Thanks! Are you happy with the Behringer unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. Very good DAC, sounds great, and cheap. It's not perfect though: there is definitely a "dirty ground" noise when power is connected - it may not be its fault, I'm using a weird aux-in adapter and all other solutions I tried had the same problem, even phone itself, when connected to power supply. Disconnecting power supply there is no noise. It' not usually noticeable in the car, but it's there and I don't like it. If your car doesn't have noise when phone is connected directly to aux-in and plugged into power, this unit won't have that noise. I just wish they would separate ground or cleaned the power or did something to isolate noisy USB power, but it's too cheap to have that. Nor sure expensive ones can do this either. Ground-lifting transformer from ebay removes the noise, but also reduces quality so I'm not using it.
Another issue is sometimes in the beginning the sound just accelerated and is played fast-forward for a few seconds, then it catches up and plays normal. After that it works OK until restarted. Very weird and a bit annoying but not a deal killer.
Do i need a custom Kernel to get that capability?? I have a OTG cable that works for connecting a mouse, keyboard, thumbdrive etc and it has a port for power but the tablet does not recharge.
So i'm wondering if i need a custom Kernel or maybe the cable is defective or something.
If you know of one of those cables that work, please let me know.
Thanks in advance.
I have this cable out of China:
treetop777 said:
Do i need a custom Kernel to get that capability?? I have a OTG cable that works for connecting a mouse, keyboard, thumbdrive etc and it has a port for power but the tablet does not recharge.
So i'm wondering if i need a custom Kernel or maybe the cable is defective or something.
If you know of one of those cables that work, please let me know.
Thanks in advance.
I have this cable out of China:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use a Otg Cable with an Usb Stick and a Usb Mouse,works fine with 4.4.2 and 4.2.2 with Stock Kernel
letschky said:
I use a Otg Cable with an Usb Stick and a Usb Mouse,works fine with 4.4.2 and 4.2.2 with Stock Kernel
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And also charges simultaneously? That's what the OP is asking for.
Slimport adapter outputs HDMI signal and lets you charge the tablet simultaneously, but besides that... nothing else on stock ROM I imagine.
Iknownot said:
And also charges simultaneously? That's what the OP is asking for.
Slimport adapter outputs HDMI signal and lets you charge the tablet simultaneously, but besides that... nothing else on stock ROM I imagine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bummer! That's what i was afraid off.
Hello I have the same problem! : (
I installed the tablet in my car but you can not use the charger + OTG simultaneously.
You have to wait for someone to change the KERNEL as they did for the Nexus 7.
mannyy said:
Hello I have the same problem! : (
I installed the tablet in my car but you can not use the charger + OTG simultaneously.
You have to wait for someone to change the KERNEL as they did for the Nexus 7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice setup! :good: That's exactly what i want to do. I can connect a mouse and thumb drive but no power. I was trying to work-out how to use a switch or relay or something to switch between otg and power but i haven't came up with anything yet.
treetop777 said:
Nice setup! :good: That's exactly what i want to do. I can connect a mouse and thumb drive but no power. I was trying to work-out how to use a switch or relay or something to switch between otg and power but i haven't came up with anything yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi everyone,
I had same problem!
My pad is rooted, 20b, stock kernel, Finally, find out solution.
I bought IBUFFALO usb with AC power around 15USD. 4 Slots for USB 2.0 and 1 double micro usb. Worked with mouse, Bluetooth keyboard, external drive with USB 2.0 only, usb 3.0 not work. Just for your info.
treetop777 said:
... I was trying to work-out how to use a switch or relay or something to switch between otg and power but i haven't came up with anything yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Difference between normal and OTG USB cable is that OTG has pins 4 (sense) and 5 (ground) shorted and on regular cable pin 4 is not in use. If you put a switch between these two pins you can switch between regular USB cable for charging and OTG for connected devices.
Some apps can be found on Google Play Store that claim to be able to switch between or enable simultaneous OTG and charging, but most are for specific devices or group of devices, none for G Pad 8.3. Most promising is maybe Faux123 Kernel Enhancement Pro (3.77€ and requires Root+Busybox+SuperSU).
Too bad our tablet has no secondary charging port (like Sony has magnetic charging port for example), but least intrusive would be to use powered USB HUB, let it power the connected devices so the battery drain on the tablet will stay low.
Iknownot said:
Difference between normal and OTG USB cable is that OTG has pins 4 (sense) and 5 (ground) shorted and on regular cable pin 4 is not in use. If you put a switch between these two pins you can switch between regular USB cable for charging and OTG for connected devices.
Some apps can be found on Google Play Store that claim to be able to switch between or enable simultaneous OTG and charging, but most are for specific devices or group of devices, none for G Pad 8.3. Most promising is maybe Faux123 Kernel Enhancement Pro (3.77€ and requires Root+Busybox+SuperSU).
Too bad our tablet has no secondary charging port (like Sony has magnetic charging port for example), but least intrusive would be to use powered USB HUB, let it power the connected devices so the battery drain on the tablet will stay low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that - Very good info! Allow me to pick your brain a little more: Looking at the cable i have (in the OP), do you think that by just connecting an external power (red and black) to the cable just before going into the tab would work somehow to give it power.
It's intreging what you said about being able to switch from regular USB (that can supply power) to OTG just by jumping those wires. I'm trying to picture something in my mind to accomplish what we want but the "light bulb" haven't came on yet - any suggestions?
I want to use the tab in the car PERMANENTLY so i need a way to charge it while behind the dash. I would want to use a mouse as well so OTG is a must.
In any case, i'm going outside right know to split open that cable and see how it's connected inside, maybe then the light bulb will come on in my head.
treetop777 said:
Thanks for that - Very good info! Allow me to pick your brain a little more: Looking at the cable i have (in the OP), do you think that by just connecting an external power (red and black) to the cable just before going into the tab would work somehow to give it power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try it out, you got the cables!
When pins 4 & 5 get shorted the tablet may be configured only to output power, not receive it. I have only OTG adapter cable and the supplied USB charging/data cable, so I cannot test this stuff.
treetop777 said:
It's intreging what you said about being able to switch from regular USB (that can supply power) to OTG just by jumping those wires. I'm trying to picture something in my mind to accomplish what we want but the "light bulb" haven't came on yet - any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would buy micro USB male plug, some heat-shrink tubing with glue, switch (3A) and split OTG adapter or HUB. Cut off the male plug fom the adapter, solder on the new plug to the adapter cable as normal USB, solder on the switch to pins 4 & 5 of the plug, check it for continuity and shorts, test it on the tablet, if good - secure the new plug to the cable with heat-shrink tubing.
EDIT: Possible solution with resistor described here
Our device, if it can be tricked this way, may require different resistor from the one used in the tutorial (usually in 36KΩ-200KΩ range).
Ok, I'm chopping it up! I spliced-in the red and black wires from a USB cable into the OTG cable (in the OP) and sure enough the tab gets power. However, it no longer detect the mouse or any thing else (kind of expected). Tomorrow i will try bridging pin 4 and 5 and see what happens. If that don't work, i will try the resistor. :fingers-crossed:
I have read that devices on OTG get polled regularly, but charging is not, i.e. if you start charging and after that short the pins 4 & 5, it will continue charging and you can use your OTG devices. Hope this holds true to the G Pad as well.
Isn't micro USB a "standard"....??
Then GEEZZ why do one manufacturer thinks it's ok to eliminate a pin completely! i assume that when i pay for that cable, i will get ALL 5 PINS even if one is not connected - rip-off! :laugh: This manufacturer not only didn't connect pin 4, it was eliminated completely; stopped me in my tracks! Fortunately, i have an extension that have of all things ALL 5 WIRES CONNECTED! Imagine that! But now, i don't have any time to chop-it-up until tomorrow. With the 5 wire cable, i will short the yellow and black wires but I'll check here first to see if I'm warned against it.
More to come..
Hi manny your car kooks awesome. I have one question. How you connect your speakers from the car with the G Pad. iam also interested to built a GPad in the car !
Sent from my GT-I9505 using xda app-developers app
Yep weneed more info on this as i would like to fit my pad in the van,, how did you get fm radio on there.
Nothing good to report. Connecting the power wire to the OTG cable and shorting the 4&5 pins does nothing different. I can have it charging and when i disconnect power, it then detects the mouse (that's a good thing) but when i plug the power back in, nothing happens! Ideally it would disconnect the mouse and start charging again but no-go. Having the 4&5 pins shorted or not makes no difference.
Still have a couple things i will try before i give up, one is the resistor and the other is a more simple OTG cable.
Will report back.
treetop777 said:
Nothing good to report. Connecting the power wire to the OTG cable and shorting the 4&5 pins does nothing different. I can have it charging and when i disconnect power, it then detects the mouse (that's a good thing) but when i plug the power back in, nothing happens! Ideally it would disconnect the mouse and start charging again but no-go. Having the 4&5 pins shorted or not makes no difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand that you would want the cables all hidden behind the dash in a car and can't be connecting and disconnecting plugs all the time, at the most just flip of a switch should make things work. The resistor trick would be ideal, if it works.
What's the exact sequence you did things in?
- Mouse and charger connected to the tablet simultaneously with pins 4 & 5 not shorted, tablet charging - short pins 4 & 5 - what happens?
- Only charger connected, pins not shorted, short pins and then connect mouse...
- Mouse and charger connected to the tablet simultaneously with pins shorted, mouse working - unshort pins...
- Only mouse connected, pins shorted, unshort pins and then connect charger...
Iknownot said:
I understand that you would want the cables all hidden behind the dash in a car and can't be connecting and disconnecting plugs all the time, at the most just flip of a switch should make things work. The resistor trick would be ideal, if it works.
What's the exact sequence you did things in?
- Mouse and charger connected to the tablet simultaneously with pins 4 & 5 not shorted, tablet charging - short pins 4 & 5 - what happens?
- Only charger connected, pins not shorted, short pins and then connect mouse...
- Mouse and charger connected to the tablet simultaneously with pins shorted, mouse working - unshort pins...
- Only mouse connected, pins shorted, unshort pins and then connect charger...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would have to record in what sequence i do things to remember but it seem i have done every combination possible. I do remember doing these sequences after a fresh reboot of the tablet and BTW i made a simple cable out of a know working (single) OTG cable and splicing-in the red and black from the cable that has 5 wires connected, leaving the pin 4 wire disconnected and extending a pigtail from the black wire so i could short the yellow and black to hopefully force OTG:
- Power plugged in and mouse plugged-in then plug the cable into the tablet - it detects the mouse but does not charge.
- in the above state, shorted the yellow and black wire - no change.
- separated 4/5 then disconnected the mouse leaving power connected (expecting that the tab will then switch to charge but) - nothing. The mouse did disapear but the tab did not start to charge.
- shorted 4/5 (for ****s and grins) and as expected - nothing.
Again with a fresh tablet:
- with (ONLY) power connected to the cable, inserted the cable into the tablet - it started charging.
- in that same state, connected mouse - mouse was NOT detected but the tab continued to charge.
- with mouse plugged in, shorted 4/5 - no change (charging but no mouse detected)
THIS IS THE IDEAL SITUATION BUT JUST HALF WAY:
Rebooting the tablet with both power and mouse connected and cable inserted, the tab starts by accepting the charge (no mouse) but get this, plugging-out power makes the tab switch to the mouse right away! That would be good except that plugging the power back in does NOT make the tablet switch back to power, in fact, nothing happens, the mouse just continues to be detected.
If i had 2 cables, one only for power and the other only for OTG, i could pull one out and replace it with the other and both functions would work; i don't understand why that same "switching" can be recreated within one cable??
This is beyond me, the last thing i will try is following your sequences to the letter and with the resistor, if that doesn't work - i give up! :crying:
budalageo said:
Hi manny your car kooks awesome. I have one question. How you connect your speakers from the car with the G Pad. iam also interested to built a GPad in the car !
Sent from my GT-I9505 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have buy a Sony mex bt4000U ... http://www.sony.it/support/it/product/MEX-BT4100U
install in rear a Tablet.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Y1QXAsSUtc
and work whith APP REMOTE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEfG3Zdf7HM
---------- Post added at 11:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 AM ----------
I have used this !!
have disassembly and install !!! work whit switch !!
http://www.ebay.it/itm/231182187439?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
I have a strange issue after installed my Nexus 7 as a car stereo setup in my Subaru (see setup blow)... Whenever I turn up the volume, specifically the subwoofer, the USB system basically "resets" itself. As if, I unplugged and plugged it back in very quickly. At first, I thought my USB DAC was bad, because I plugged my audio feed directly into the tablet with no USB devices connected and all worked fine, but if I have my hub plugged in and then the reset happens (with audio from tablet still), the reset still happens and my OBD2 adapter (USB) brings up torque. I plugged that same USB DAC directly in, with no hub, to my OTG cable and used its audio feed, same issue. I thought maybe the voltage drop was too harsh and causing issues with my charger, so I ran a 120v usb charger setup (like a factory phone one) with an extension cord to my vehicle to isolate its own charge system to the tablet with the same results. OK, Maybe it is just vibration? (forgot to note: subwoofer is freeair, laying in the back seat... still testing, box isn't done yet, so the vibration level is next to nothing currently.) I grabbed my usb cable system with the volume low and shook the life out of it... never did the reset. Again, only when the subwoofer volume goes up and anything is plugged into the USB port on the OTG for external devices does this ever happen.
The Setup:
I have a dedicated 4A 12v-5v charger and it seems to charge the tablet fine. I have a 90 degree charge adapter in place. I also have an OTG Cable so I can hook up USB to my dedicated USB hub that I have a "backup" power cable plugged in (into the same 5v charger the tablet is).
Audio chain wise, I have plugged into my USB hub a USB DAC. After that, a noise blocker. From there, I wired in a potentiometer for volume control. From there, it goes to the 4 channel amp and the mono subwoofer amp (which also has a dedicated volume controller that came with the amp)
Power wise, I have a dedicated run of "oversized 4awg" (basically, 6 awg wire) from under the hood and no more than 5' of cable to a fused distribution block, then to the amps. I also have a ground wire of the same size that from come the battery ground that all amps connect to (as well as chassis, so about an overkill of a grounding system). The factory wiring harness was spliced into for connection to a relay that feed from the constant on factory wire, feeding the 5v usb charger and the remote turn on trigger for the 2 amps (so it shouldn't be overloaded at all).
Items (can't give links, so giving exact item name):
4A 12v-5v charger(Amazon - Icstation LM2596 DC to DC Voltage Regulator Dual USB Charger Step Down Power Supply Buck Converter 6-40V to 5V 3A DC 5.5X2.1mm Port )
90 Degree USB adapter(Amazon - Micro USB Extension Cable - Riipoo Left Angle Micro B USB Extension Cable, 25 CM, Micro USB 5 Pin Male to Female, Sync Charging and Data Transferring Cable for Samsung, HTC, Huawei, Sony and More)
OTG Cable (Amazon - DSYJ Micro USB Host OTG Cable with Micro USB Power for Samsung S7 S7 Edge, S6 S6+ S6 Edge, S5, S4 & Nexus 10 9 7 4 Player + ALL OTHERS )
USB Hub (Amazon - UNITEK Portable USB 3.0 4-Port Ultra Slim Data hub, with Micro USB 2.0 Power port and Built-in USB 3.0 Cable LED for iMac, MacBook, MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, Mac Mini, Chrombook, Surface Pro )
USB Dac (Amazon - Fiio K1 Portable Headphone Amplifier&DAC and USB DAC, Titanium)
Noise Blocker (Amazon - Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black))
Potentiometer: (Amazon - 10K Audio Taper Stereo Potentiometer 1/4 Shaft)
4 Channel Amp: (Amazon - Audiopipe 4 Channel Micro Amplifier 1000 Watts)
Subwoofer Amp: (Amazon - Audiopipe Class D Micro Amplifier 500 Watts)
I'm pretty stumped at this point. Any ideas?
Wiring can be a *****!
You could replace your right angle cable and OTG with this one item: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NSBVNCM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My USB3 hub works pretty good. but it's not at rock solid as the USB2 hub it replaced. Hubs can do some weird things when they don't initialize when the tablet want or thinks they should.
How does the subwoofer volume knob connect?
Does the the same happen when you turn the other "volume knob"?
How are the 2 amps connected to the DAC?
I'd guess offhand the DAC doesn't like whatever "feedback" it's getting through the noise suppressor from the potentometer.
What's the reason for it? You should be able to adjust your system volume through the tablet, especially if the sub amp has it's own gain.
fr4nk1yn,
-Just ordered that OTG cable. Was going to try and make my own, but if that one is proven, good enough for me.
-Agreed on hub, but I did try going direct to OTG cable, bypassing hub, and had the same issue.
-Subwoofer volume knob has its own RJ-11 phone cable to the amp. I took it apart, its using only 2 wires out of the 6 to the potentiometer inside, so pretty simple. Not sure how it works at the amp itself, but standard subwoofer volume knob on an amp, far as I can tell.
-Other knob can be cranked, seems fine, but more testing would need to be done. Soon as subwoofer knob is cranked with the volume know all the way up (or close), it triggers really quick.
-Does Dac > Potiometer > Amps (soldered wiring together, 4 channel amp has 2 specific connectors and sub has pair of RCA)
-Potentiometer gives a much better feel, very response in comparison. Having to find a volume "knob" on a tablet requires vision, taking away from the driving experience (and safety!). Don't like if the tablet has ANY delay in that control as well. I'm just old school, I guess.
Thanks for the help!
Can't connect to a USB car with 1.5 ampere on car, it's blocked to use Android Auto, anyone encounter the issue?.
I use the original cable and if tru another xiaomi phone with the same cable is working fine
Thanks