Not sure if this is a question for this forum but feel there will be a fair few experts on here who may know the answer.
Will a 4K firestick work by plugging it directly into a 2.1a 5v wall socket outlet with USB port?
Looking to buy a LAP 1-Gang SP 13A Switched Socket + 2.1A 2-Outlet USB From Screwfix
From what I’ve read, people have been powering their firesticks on TV USB ports with some success. Some have reported that less than 1 amp power on older or smaller TV’s would under power it. My concern with the wall socket may be too much power?
Pecoville said:
Not sure if this is a question for this forum but feel there will be a fair few experts on here who may know the answer.
Will a 4K firestick work by plugging it directly into a 2.1a 5v wall socket outlet with USB port?
Looking to buy a LAP 1-Gang SP 13A Switched Socket + 2.1A 2-Outlet USB From Screwfix
From what I’ve read, people have been powering their firesticks on TV USB ports with some success. Some have reported that less than 1 amp power on older or smaller TV’s would under power it. My concern with the wall socket may be too much power?
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you will be fine using that. The amp rating is for the load it can handle. for example if you put a hub on it, you could power 4 devices that require .5 amps each. I believe the firestick 4k requires 1.5 amps (it may work on less but could cause issues)
Great. I was concerned the socket would be too much for it and perhaps overheat it or something and I plan on not using the plug Firestick plug (brick) which is fused
All Fire TV Sticks have a power adapter capable of delivering 1 amp of electricity. Of course, that doesn't imply a Fire TV Stick needs that much power to function, but it can theoretically draw that much power from the supplied power adapter.
So you may take advantage of that. Because if you put a hub on it, you can power four devices that each require 0.5 amp. In addition, this firestick needs a 1.5 amp power supply.
Related
Hi,
I have just bought the galaxy nexus and am wondering if any of you bright bods could think of a way to do this. I have a Fiat bravo with blue and me so use the usb port for media playback, however this does not supply enough power to keep the phone charging if using navigation too. I also have a 750mA 12 volt charger. Is there a cable that would allow me to have both the media player cable connected and the cigarette lighter cable connected at the same time, preferably with d- d+ shorted so that high speed charging would be available as the effective power available should be 1.2A if my thinking is correct
Hi
I had a look at the MHL wiki;
"Samsung’s Galaxy S III/ Note 2 can power the MHL-HDMI adapter (when used with a non-MHL-compatible-TV). Although this can theoretically also be done with the standard 5-pin micro-USB connector, the Galaxy S III's 11-pin connector is believed to be the first smartphone that supports this functionality"
......does anyone know what this means? Can the Note II output the signal to HDMI without using external power.
We all know that it can connect to a regular HDMI socket but the adapter requires external power.
I know that when using a passive MHL cable it does not require power when connecting to a MHL specific HDMI socket. These cables are quite difficult (and expensive) to get hold of but Kanex does one. Furthermore, only very modern TV sets have a MHL specific HDMI socket.
After reading the wiki......I'm now wondering if the Note II can connect to a regular HDMI using a passive MHL cable without requiring external power.....but the wiki is not clear.
Anyone got any ideas?
I've just bought official S3/Note 2 MHL adapter and it doesn't work without external power source.
HDMI standard requires 4 TMDS wire pairs (R, G, B, CLK) plus additional control signals.
MHL uses a single wire pair for data, on which the R, G, B channels are multiplexed. That pair is shared by the USB OTG connection.
So my understanding is as follows:
In order to use a MHL passive cable, you need to have a MHL-enabled TV, and connect that câble on the MHL compatible HDMI port.
Otherwise, the TV won't recongnize the signals.
Currently most TVs are not MHL-enabled. So you need to use a bridge between the device MHL output port and the HDMI TV input, in order to convert the single multiplexed data pair in the 4 data pairs. And that requires powered.
The Question is why do we need an external power supply, instead of using directly the device power supply...
Too high power consumption ? Technical limitations with MHL v1.0 standard ? or No one would like to try that ? ...
Also, for you reference:
The Kanex cable you mention does only work with those MHL-enabled TV, as stated on the product page.
Samsung offers now a new MHL v2.0 adapter designed for the GS4:
http://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/cell-phones-accessories/ET-H10FAUWESTA
The new feature with that adpater is the fact that you do not need to connect the wall charger to it (unless you would like to charge the phone).
Although that is clearly stated on samsung's site that this adapter is compatible with GS3 and GN2, that is also clearly stated that only the GS4 supports this new capability because of its MHL v2.0 compliance.
Diim said:
The Question is why do we need an external power supply, instead of using directly the device power supply...
Too high power consumption ? Technical limitations with MHL v1.0 standard ? or No one would like to try that ? ...
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I couldn't 100% confirm that, but after some web searches, that has got clear for me now that it is a MHL v1.0 standard limitation.
MHL standard was derived from the HDMI standard, and was intended to allow a mobile device to send audio/video streams to a display device, while the display device can send basic control command to it. In addition, It was made possible to charge the mobile device thanks to the display device power supply.
So obviously, the standard was designed with a power supply provided by the display, not the phone.
And as for non MHL compatible display device, that seems it was not the first priority. Bridging between the phone MHL output and the standard TV HDMI input was a workaround, requiring an external power supply source.
With MHL v2.0, they have enhanced charging capability, and that seems they have covered the "bridging" case.
MHL v2.0 compliant phones (like GS4) should be able to power supply the bridge adapter. That tends to be confirmed by the fact that the new Samsung MHL adapter for the GS4, supporting v2.0 standard, does not require an external power supply if used with the GS4, but needs one if used with the GS3 or GN2.
Has anyone confirmed whether the Galaxy Note 3 will be MHL 2.0 compliant? I would guess yes, especially if the GS4 is already 2.0 compliant, but I just wanted to see if there was a confirmation of this anywhere. I would love to be able to display to HDTV without the need to separately plug in the power, because many times, the power outlet is not within easy reach of a monitor or HDTV.
I guess we will know for sure very shortly!
Confirmed: GN3 will have MHL 2.0, which should mean that we can connect the HDMI cable directly to the adapter without also having to plug in the power adapter. Woo!
I recently got a LG G3 and I want to use it the same way I did my RAZR (XT912). I had a OTG cable going into the data end of a y-splitter (USB data in with a USB power and a mini a in) with the power end going into either my computer or a USB wall charger and the mini end pulling from a USB hub. The result being I can use multiple USB inputs and it was able to charge the phone as well.
With my G3 I was able to get it to find both my HDD and my flash drive I have going into the hub as well as a PS3 controller plugged directly into the hub but it won't charge for some reason even with my USB devices unplugged from the hub. I did notice periodically my clock app will show a charging symbol next to it like its charging even though its losing power.
Is it possible that I need a stronger power signal going into the y-splitter for the G3, a new y-splitter, or a entirely different setup?
I really don't want to have to root it if I can help it but I'm thinking that might be why its not allowing power in. Then again I'm not a master with this sort of thing so I could be wrong.
Also if someone knows if there is someway to get Slimport to work with charging and OTG input that would be good to know although I don't think that is possible
***update***
So I dug out the ac adaptor for my USB hub, then hooked my G3 up to the hub like before with nothing else in it and left the screen off for a hour or so and it charged it like 2% even though it said it wasn't charging.
So it looks like it is working but there not enough power. Anyone have any idea on how to get more power going into it?
There are 3 parts to charging.
The power supply need to have a voltage in the acceptable range. Generally not an issue.
The power supply needs to be able to output enough amps. If it is too low, you will often see a slow charging message.
The cable to your phone must have a low enough resistance on the wires supplying power. If the resistance is too high you will get a voltage drop on the wires.
A power supply with higher amp output and/or a lower loss cable on the path from the power supply to the phone are likely the issue.
If your connection is OTG-splitter-another_cable-power_supply, both splitter and another_cable add resistance on the path to power_supply.
Hi, ive registered with this forum to ask for some information on the Amazon Firestick. I am thinking of buying a fully loaded stick from Ebay in the UK. My main question is i have a UMC 40 inch TV with a usb and Hdmi port but its not a smart tv. Will the Firestick work or do i need a smart tv. Any help would be appreciated Thanks
No SmartTV needed, only HDMI is mandatory of course. USB power can (or better should) be done with the USB power supply of the stick, so also USB must not be used from the TV and can be left free for other devices which need to be connected directly to the TV.
Calibaan said:
USB power can (or better should) be done with the USB power supply of the stick, so also USB must not be used from the TV and can be left free for other devices which need to be connected directly to the TV.
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= Plug the FireTV Stick into the wall for power, don't plug it into a USB port on your TV for power.
I use my tv's USB port for power with no ill effects. We don't use the USB port for anything else, and it means we don't have to have yet another device plugged into the wall. It does mean that the Fire TV boots up every time the TV turns on, but it boots fast enough that this has not been a distraction.
stealthdave said:
I use my tv's USB port for power with no ill effects. We don't use the USB port for anything else, and it means we don't have to have yet another device plugged into the wall. It does mean that the Fire TV boots up every time the TV turns on, but it boots fast enough that this has not been a distraction.
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It might work fine for you and other people, but in general, TV USB ports are not reliable as a power source. That might vary from brand to brand, however, it should be noted that an inconsistent power supply or one that doesn't meet the manufacturer's specifications can be bad for the unit over time.
I tried it with other devices. Its a nice way to eliminate wires but I got random reboots and freezes. Never tried it with stick but some people report it works fine.
In general it might work with regular USB power from a TV USB port but I personally had problems with WIFI. It seemed that the stick did switch down WIFI speed (and probably slows down the CPU) when the power is restricted to a TV USB port but does run on full speed with the external power supply. Also those decoding problems during video streaming which is often reported here may come from insufficient power.
A USB port is specified to deliver 0.5A at 5V so thats only 2.5W power which is guaranteed and it´s only mandatory for devices like TV sets to deliver more power. So it makes sense that Amazon did deliver an external power supply knowing the power consumption of their stick My hint would be to check first with external power supply if the stick is running fine and how is streaming working with speed and quality than it is still possible to try only with the TV USB power and it can be compared if there are no negative perfomance issues. But I bet most people will attach the external power again.
Hi,
I'd like to connected a powered USB hub to my HU.
But I'm not sure where to get the power from.
What is in my mind is:
ACC wire (from HU) -> 12v to 5v converter -> USB hub
Is this setup possible? Or woud it lead into problems?
If this is ok, where should I get ground from?
other question: are there alternative wires to get 12v from, when key is inserted? Or where do you guys get power for the usb hub from?
The real question here is, if the current from the 12v ign is enough to power the hub and peripherals.
I'd rather go via the cig-lighter, as it is designed to deliver some juice. (I connected a quick charge 2.0 hub this way and it delivers proper qc2.0 power)
By curiosity, why do you want an aditional USB, when you can plug a USB right into the HU.
I use the ANT plug as the REM Power amp.
If you want at more power you can add a relay.
Sendt fra min SM-G930F med Tapatalk
Xorit said:
The real question here is, if the current from the 12v ign is enough to power the hub and peripherals.
I'd rather go via the cig-lighter, as it is designed to deliver some juice. (I connected a quick charge 2.0 hub this way and it delivers proper qc2.0 power)
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Does your USB device need 5-10Amp draw
Dindongolef said:
By curiosity, why do you want an aditional USB, when you can plug a USB right into the HU.
I use the ANT plug as the REM Power amp.
If you want at more power you can add a relay.
Sendt fra min SM-G930F med Tapatalk
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I want to install something like this into my car, to have the flexibility inserting different kind if sticks or sd cards:
https://www.amazon.de/DeLock-Tisch-Hub-Port-Slot-Reader/dp/B0734LVQXW/ref=sr_1_8?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=amazon+in+desk+hub&qid=1569300536&sr=8-8
If you're not looking to rapid charge a phone and only want to read media then the ACC wire has more than enough current capacity. Say you use a 2.4A converter just for the buck converter and lower power dissipation. 2.4A X 5V is 12W so on the 12V side it should draw 1A (in a perfect world). But since you don't want to use the hub to charge your phone all you need to do is plug the blue USB in your HU and leave the white one unplugged that should be enough current to read a USB drive or power the card reader.
nic2k said:
If you're not looking to rapid charge a phone and only want to read media then the ACC wire has more than enough current capacity. Say you use a 2.4A converter just for the buck converter and lower power dissipation. 2.4A X 5V is 12W so on the 12V side it should draw 1A (in a perfect world). But since you don't want to use the hub to charge your phone all you need to do is plug the blue USB in your HU and leave the white one unplugged that should be enough current to read a USB drive or power the card reader.
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Thank you