I have recently bought a Joying head unit for my Opel Vectra C. I already got a canbus decoder and harness from my previous radio, this Hipzo one. The connector on these units is a little different, but mostly has the same wires. Except, the Joying unit does not have a canbus TX and RX wire, whereas the Hizpo one has. Now I am not sure how to connect the canbus decoder box. From images of the official Joying harness, I found that the KEY1 wire must be the same as RX and KEY2 the same as TX.
Can anyone from you confirm this finding?
I have resoldered the wire to fit the Joying radio, with key1 as RX and key2 as TX, but unfortunately, I can't get the SWC and other canbus features to work.
Are these canbus decoders compatible between manufacturers?
From the Joying settings I try to find my car in the MCU list, but I can't find it. Maybe this is also a problem, since now I selected something as XP > Opel > XP
I also mapped the wires of the connector. As you see, the Joying one does not have RX and TX:
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Update: I'm actually not sure if this is a MTCD unit. MCU version says "JY_(R68)__26_C26_CAN(All)": https://img.xda-cdn.com/pidMfXIBfBgpsuzAgSbqEbSifrQ=/https%3A%2F%2Fi.ibb.co%2FfxjTDRy%2F20181216-122639.jpg
This is not a MTCB / C /D /E unit. If you had a MTC-B / C /D /E unit before with a canbusdecoder, you cannot use this decoder on your new Joying unit. In your case you need to buy one of these harnesses
http://www.connects2.co.uk/products/steering-wheel-control-interfaces/vehicle/Opel/Vectra . You connect this harness to the iso harness from joying. Connect the key 1 and key 2 wires en give one of them ground.
Then in the steeringwheel app from joying you can map the keys. I don't think it's necessary to select a MCU. I'm my case it works without choosing a MCU type.
Tumke32 said:
This is not a MTCB / C /D /E unit. If you had a MTC-B / C /D /E unit before with a canbusdecoder, you cannot use this decoder on your new Joying unit. In your case you need to buy one of these harnesses
http://www.connects2.co.uk/products/steering-wheel-control-interfaces/vehicle/Opel/Vectra . You connect this harness to the iso harness from joying. Connect the key 1 and key 2 wires en give one of them ground.
Then in the steeringwheel app from joying you can map the keys. I don't think it's necessary to select a MCU. I'm my case it works without choosing a MCU type.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, is that only because there is no tx and rx pin? Because I know there are also FYT units which do use a Canbus box, for example the ones for Volkswagen.
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HaTeNL said:
Okay, is that only because there is no tx and rx pin? Because I know there are also FYT units which do use a Canbus box, for example the ones for Volkswagen.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you bought a universal Joying headunit you have to buy the harness + canbusdecoder i mentioned. Indeed Joying also has got brand specific models which comes with his own canbus box. These canbusboxes can do more than the one i mentioned. The one from Volkswagen for example can give you more information about the car, door open and close etc. the Connects2 harness + canbusbox is only to get the steeringwheel controls to work.
When is your car produced? Because the harness + decoder in the link are for Opel Vectra 1998 -2004 and 2004 to 2008
About the tx and rx pin, i don't know.
Tumke32 said:
If you bought a universal Joying headunit you have to buy the harness + canbusdecoder i mentioned. Indeed Joying also has got brand specific models which comes with his own canbus box. These canbusboxes can do more than the one i mentioned. The one from Volkswagen for example can give you more information about the car, door open and close etc. the Connects2 harness + canbusbox is only to get the steeringwheel controls to work.
When is your car produced? Because the harness + decoder in the link are for Opel Vectra 1998 -2004 and 2004 to 2008
About the tx and rx pin, i don't know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I understand. I want all the brand specific options on the universal radio. Since the internal hardware is probably the same, I think it is possible. Also I have the option to choose a canbus protocol and such, so also the software side is not the limitation.
My Vectra is from 2006. I already know these connects2 harnesses, but I want to try it first using the non-conventional way.
Since this radio (https://www.joyingauto.com/joying-intel-android-in-car-entertainment-system-for-opel-vauxhall.html) is based on Intel Sofia, which is mostly the same as their FYT PX5 builds, I think the MCU is also compatible. The question is, how is the "Joying connector" different from mine? I am sure that this canbus box works different from the connects2 one, since they showed me a picture how to configure the canbus protocol on the headunit:
Also in this video, you can see he is controlling the boardcomputer: https://youtu.be/q-5M6MWBjPk
So I think I will open up my unit this weekend.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Related
tuneIT - Digital FM transmitter with Back Lit Display & Flex-Neck
FMTD3
This product works great! Just bought it a few hours ago and it is amazingly simple to use and inexpensive. Check it out.
http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/product/1690
Why drop $39 on a FM Transmitter when Amazon.com has them for sub-$15...
FM
seams like there should be an app that leverages the internal FM radio to accomplish this feature.
jay123035 said:
seams like there should be an app that leverages the internal FM radio to accomplish this feature.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The built in FM radio is a RECEIVER. It cant just be turned into a transmitter. Your better off using a bt receiver that can be plugged into the aux in of your radio,or just plugging it in. If your radio does not have one,about a hundred bucks will get you one that does,you can even get one with bt and avoid the cable or adapter all together.
Walmart has one for $11,(in the auto section, not electronic) and it's battery powered so you don't get feedback from the outlet.
I use a direct aux converter that replaces my radio harness so anything connected to my radio thinks its a cd and i can connect any audio device and even an ipod... but it was 80 bucks.
I think P.I.E. makes interfaces for almost every car. I haven't checked their page since I got my XM stuff in 05 but they've gotta have something that'll work for pretty much everyone.
FM transmitters are so 90s lol
Hey can you guys help me.. I just bought one(not this one) and it won't fit in my Toyota camry's cigarette socket or the 12v.. is there anything I can do? And do they make special smaller ones that fit?
Deck's + SZ + SuperCharger script + ViperMod script.
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+
+
You guys are saying I can buy this... Miccus BluBridge mini-jack Rx: and plug that into my audio jack in my truck and it'll stream the music via bt?
My car radio doesn't have a place to plug an adapter into so I use a Motorola T505. It's cheap, easy to connect to and I can take it from the car to the office if I want.
OK some good ideas here
I just use my AUX input in my truck
I bought the older version of this
GOgroove FlexSMART
Pretty handy piece of equipment, and it has gotten cheaper with the upgrade. It will charge your phone at the same time as transmitting your tunes. I use it to listen to the games while driving home from work.
If you have a way to attach a BT receiver, that is totally the way to go. A2DP sound quality rocks and you can use it for speaker phone too.
rahb0sse said:
You guys are saying I can buy this... Miccus BluBridge mini-jack Rx: and plug that into my audio jack in my truck and it'll stream the music via bt?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its what I have been doing for months, and more. Not only that but the thing has a battery so it can run without a power source for a few hours. Although Im too lazy so I just leave it plugged into both the input and USB port (I use a lot of rentals, they have a cubbie hole with both). It goes to sleep mode but then once you restart the car it goes active and you just have to turn on bluetooth on the phone. No connecting anything.
Also, it works with all types of audio. Phone audio, navigation audio, etc.
Crossrocker said:
Hey can you guys help me.. I just bought one(not this one) and it won't fit in my Toyota camry's cigarette socket or the 12v.. is there anything I can do? And do they make special smaller ones that fit?
Deck's + SZ + SuperCharger script + ViperMod script.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Prepare yourself for "that's what she said" jokes, but it won't fit how? Too big around, or too long? As much as you may not want to, you might have to push harder or something, some of these things are kinda crappy and require more force than you really want to use while shoving them in. The 12v cigarette socket in cars is nearly 100% standard, and a common car like the Camry should have a standard socket. Be careful though, I'd hate for you to break the socket on account of my advice. I've had them work in every VW I've ever owned (81 rabbit, 91 GTI, 91 jetta, 88 golf, 92 gti, 93 corrado).
Pics and product info would also help solve the issue .
Glad I read this, some really good ideas.
I'm using the bt receiver from BlackBerry. I think it was about $50 from Amazon. I had some engine whine, but then I ordered a gnd loop isolator and all was fine. The whine was specific to my Mazda 3's aux jack, so you may not have that problem.
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My Jeep has a VES or Video Entertainment System in the rear. I have a CANBUS adapter that I installed my Joying HU with and everything works. The VES still works with the wireless headphones, but is it possible to get it to work through the HU and play through the speakers like the OEM radio did? The factory radio had a source selection, but I'm not sure if it's possible to do something like that with these MTCB units.
what kind of Jeep? I am not sure, but I think the VES will only work with a DVD in the Head Unit.
Jeep Commander. It has a separate player in the center console for the dvd's.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
another user on here has a Jeep Commander with the VES, pretty sure he couldn't get it to work. Search for "Jeep" and his posts should show up, pyrie or something like that was his username
Krunk_Kracker said:
My Jeep has a VES or Video Entertainment System in the rear. I have a CANBUS adapter that I installed my Joying HU with and everything works. The VES still works with the wireless headphones, but is it possible to get it to work through the HU and play through the speakers like the OEM radio did? The factory radio had a source selection, but I'm not sure if it's possible to do something like that with these MTCB units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean get videos to play to rear monitors ? If so, then the only way is if you have a unit with a DVD player built in, then you can, but ONLY from the DVD, no other source.
Yes and yes. I have the commander with the Eanon GA2114. Ves will work but you need to do some work . My VES was originally connected to a REC nav unit. The back of the stock jeep rear video entertainment unit has a wiring schematic. Just splice appropriately
.
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It was pin 7, 8, and 1 on the top connector for audio. I ran video but havent hooked it up yet. Thats next once i get some free time.
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pyraxiate said:
It was pin 7, 8, and 1 on the top connector for audio. I ran video but havent hooked it up yet. Thats next once i get some free time.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you select it? Like once you play the DVD, how do you select the source from the headunit?
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Also, did you use a CANBUS adapter?
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Yes I'm using the pac rp4-ch11 canbus adapter. I have the stock Boston acoustic premium audio and this canbus adapter supports the stock amp and steering wheel controls. You select the AV input to pass the VES video / audio into the head unit.
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pyraxiate said:
Yes I'm using the pac rp4-ch11 canbus adapter. I have the stock Boston acoustic premium audio and this canbus adapter supports the stock amp and steering wheel controls. You select the AV input to pass the VES video / audio into the head unit.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The AVIN app you're speaking of?
I'm not sure about your head unit, but as you can see by the schematics of mine I have an audio video input that I connected my VES unit into. From there if you look at the other attached photo, there is an AVIN in the upper right hand corner that you would have to select in order to choose the video / audio input channel on the back of the unit. That is how mine is connected.
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Hi
I recently bought a new Android head unit for my Renault Clio and have been going over a few things before i install and was surprised to see the wifi antenna is just a single wire that comes from one of the output plugs on the chassis. On all my previous head units there's been a gold RP-SMA type connector to attach an antenna to.
Heres the Unit I purchased: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Din-Autoradio-Android-9-0-Car-GPS-Stereo-Audio-10inch-4G-64G-HDMI-AUX-Wifi-OBD/183972485630?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
My questions are;
Is this new single white wire (antenna) out the back of the units chassis enough to pick up a signal? & if not:
How do i go about modifying it? In my car i have two 'blade' type adhesive antennas in the A-pillars of the car which gave great wifi reception with my phone tethered in the glove box. I can't help but think this new unit may be a bit of a step down in wifi performance.
Could a possible solution be to connect (via one of the USB connectors) an RP-SMA type antenna like this but for Android, does such a thing exist as i don't want to fit a usb dongle since i have unlimited data on my phone.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Speed-USB-Wifi-Adapter-Wireless-Antenna-Dongle-For-Smart-TV-Box-Openbox-PC/303239475128?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
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*EDIT* Or could i solder a pig tail lead (like the one below) to the head units wifi antenna wire to make use of my existing blade antennas:
Thanks
Roger (UK)
WiFi antenna mod
eunavi head unit is the same as Bosion!
I disassembled my radio I eliminated single wire (useless) I soldered a pigtail (RP-SMA female ) on the mainboard and I inserted a small wifi antenna! now the wifi signal is much more powerful and I can finally connect the radio to the home wifi
pinotuning said:
eunavi head unit is the same as Bosion!
I disassembled my radio I eliminated single wire (useless) I soldered a pigtail on the mainboard and I inserted a small wifi antenna! now the wifi signal is much more powerful and I can finally connect the radio to the home wifi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cheers, I ended up doing the same but soldering on an RP-SMA connector onto the end of the wireless cable that poked out the back. It worked a treat. Overall i'm very impressed with this unit compared to the Xtrons unit i have in my van, the only problem i'm having is no DAB without tethering my phone despite having a USB DAB module plugged in in the glove box.
Roger (UK)
Hi friend ?
it can also work as you did...
the antenna cable is composed of 2 cores of wires! the internal wire is the signal (on the radio it was that stupid wire)
then there is the ground cable to be connected on the radio chassis! you see my photo .... I soldered the pigtail cable on the motherboard!
my radio works fine but i don't use DAB i'm sorry! I noticed that my radio has problems mixing audio music and navigator .... you have the same problem?
thanks
Cheers PT i'll have another look at that, I've got a spare RP-SMA pigtail so may well open up the radio and go direct from the board like you have. The only problem i have is when i use poweramp it doesn't always shut the radio off so have to open another app to turn radio off that way. Other than that all good and for £130 can't really complain, my xtrons unit was just shy of £300 and is slower.
also i have the same problem with poweramp! i removed the application because i preferred old style apk which worked better in my old eonon head unit!
so you have no problem with audio management when using the gps navigator?
when I listen to music and use the navigator (iGo) the voice feels low and the music increases the volume! consequently I do not understand what to say the voice guide of the navigator!
my radio is the model with dsp (about 220 dollars)
https://m.it.aliexpress.com/item/32...MI6Kn1pIuR6QIVCp53Ch3nMwr1EAsYByABEgKapvD_BwE
pinotuning said:
also i have the same problem with poweramp! i removed the application because i preferred old style apk which worked better in my old eonon head unit!
so you have no problem with audio management when using the gps navigator?
when I listen to music and use the navigator (iGo) the voice feels low and the music increases the volume! consequently I do not understand what to say the voice guide of the navigator!
my radio is the model with dsp (about 220 dollars)
https://m.it.aliexpress.com/item/32...MI6Kn1pIuR6QIVCp53Ch3nMwr1EAsYByABEgKapvD_BwE
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Navigation wise i use google maps, it quietens the music momentarily when giving directions, you can change this in the settings to keep music up. I havent used the iGo software. So apart from the poweramp problem no other problems, i think i'll tey a different DAB module (got a couple spare) to sort that and maybe point all my music at the onboard player instead of poweramp.
can you take screenshots of your settings to keep music?
i can't ... maybe my firmware has a problem
Thanks
wrong mcu
Hi i flashed the wrong mcu can someone upload a backup?
MCU Version: MTCE_HXD_v3.30a_2 , from Aug 8 2019 10:51:10
Aliexpress item ID: 32812618751
Hi Guys,
I've recently bought and installed the above mentioned head unit in my car, all singing all dancing with DSP, 4GB of RAM and 64GB of ROM Storage, and been fairly happy with it: It's snappy, fairly well built, the sound quality is OK...so far I've installed the external mic on the overhead console and the rear parking camera which is working great with FCAM.
Now, I'm looking into installing the front parking camera (not DVR, or AUX Video IN...the proper FCAM CVBS input mentioned on the fairly well known MTCD PDF Diagram). I've read on the forum that some MTCD units shipped with a missing connector, and that a quick soldering job to the connector pins within the main board would do the trick... Back in 2017, @hugovw1976 was forced to do a hack job of soldering pin 3 of the FMS6502 chip, plus adding the required condenser to tap into the said input.
We're in 2019 and my unit seems to be quite polished (not the installation or user manuals though) with no missing connectors and quite a lot of undocumented (and unused!) pins in the back panel. I've tried to get the complete pinout from the seller to no avail...conversations on Aliexpress have been frustrating at best, and infuriating at worst. I'm now resorting to the wealth of knowledge amassed on this forum, looking for a kind soul who might be familiar with this particular head unit backpanel pinout to help me out? Here are a few pics:
Back Panel:
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Included Wiring Diagram (sucky), upon close inspection you'll notice that there is only reference to the back camera (top left, 4 pin sub-connector, with only the left-most 2 pins being used...tried using the remaining two which didnt work), also, the bottom right 8 pin connector is completely undocumented on this diagram, I tried every vertical pin pair with the camera but F-CAM didn't pick it up as the front camera...):
Main Board:
As a suggestion, try validating connections from MTCD schematic, forum thread found in my signature. It may not be perfect, in terms of component numbering, but good enough for someone with medium level electronic skills.
marchnz said:
As a suggestion, try validating connections from MTCD schematic, forum thread found in my signature. It may not be perfect, in terms of component numbering, but good enough for someone with medium level electronic skills.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, I know about the diagram, and see that others have tapped into pin 3 (IN2, FCAM-CVBS), but I was avoiding having to solder on those tiny legs....the MCU in particular seems quite hard as to not short anything...I'm hoping that my unit has the FCAM-CVBS input circuit already in place towards the back panel pins
mgomespt said:
Thank you, I know about the diagram, and see that others have tapped into pin 3 (IN2, FCAM-CVBS), but I was avoiding having to solder on those tiny legs....the MCU in particular seems quite hard as to not short anything...I'm hoping that my unit has the FCAM-CVBS input circuit already in place towards the back panel pins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The idea is to trace back, to validate the pins or identify what is needed to implement front video function, incase the pins might be correct for front video, but manufacturer has omitted components.
Retrocamera
I tried to connect on a px5 Mtce has (Dasaita) mcu 3.4 universal rear view camera on Renegade, without connecting PIN reverse canbus, powering up reversing light. For a while with fcam it went (not automatically) but with time I think I burned the camera. Now the led light works but on the screen I only see rustles and the navigator monitor turns off after 10 minutes. Which are the right connections
I got today my wondefoo px6 which I ordered on aliexpress. The vendor asked me for multiple pictures of the cables in the car before he shipped the unit, so I'm quite sure that it should be fine. He also told me that the unit was tested before shipment.
Now I plugged the cable in the car but it won't boot. (I wasn't yet able to plug in the antenna as an adapter is still missing)
So the fan in the back doesn't run and there is no light or anything loading/blinking. Screen just remains black.
Anyone an idea why it won't boot? Or what else I could try?
Some pictures:
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The car:
Mercedes A160 W168 (2001) Elegance
Is it an mtcd device and what did reseller suggest when contacted for support
So I managed it to boot up. So if anyone has the same problem, I followed this steps (maybe do also first some research on can bus adapter/decoder):
Check if you have 12v on the black/yellow wire on every single output until the end
Now check if the black/red cable has 12v when the engine is powered on (the can bus adapter if you have one should handle this, in my case its the wrong decoder)
If black/yellow and black/red have 12v then it might be the device which has a problem
In my case the can bus adapter (which handles the 12v on the red wire) did not send the ignition signal when the engine is powered on. So if thats your case you can try to bridge the yellow and red wire (this will send 12v to the red wire). After that my device powered on.
Here is a picture how I bridged the yellow and red cable (first I removed the can bus decoder)
This is an image of my can bus decoder:
I hope this will help anyone in the future. Good luck!
ikealol said:
So I managed it to boot up. So if anyone has the same problem, I followed this steps (maybe do also first some research on can bus adapter/decoder):
Check if you have 12v on the black/yellow wire on every single output until the end
Now check if the black/red cable has 12v when the engine is powered on (the can bus adapter if you have one should handle this, in my case its the wrong decoder)
If black/yellow and black/red have 12v then it might be the device which has a problem
In my case the can bus adapter (which handles the 12v on the red wire) did not send the ignition signal when the engine is powered on. So if thats your case you can try to bridge the yellow and red wire (this will send 12v to the red wire). After that my device powered on.
Here is a picture how I bridged the yellow and red cable (first I removed the can bus decoder)
View attachment 5471619
This is an image of my can bus decoder:
View attachment 5471629
I hope this will help anyone in the future. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No one knows what unit you have....
marchnz said:
No one knows what unit you have....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I thought the title is clear, it's a wondefoo px6 and I don't really have more information.
But anyways I fixed it. As I have a Mercedes A160 W168 I connected the Red wire to the A7 wire from the car and now it works perfectly. So there is no can bus adapter needed anymore.