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So after getting my Evo I devided I needed 3 items. A usb cable for my computer, a car charger that could also double as a usb cable for my computer, and an hdmi cable to take advantage of all of this badass phones features. Well I shopped around at a bunch of the usual sites like amazon and ebay but I ended up at dealexteme.com.
Here is what I ordered: (and the SKU so you can too)
- SKU: 26313 - Retractable USB to Micro 5P Data/Charging Cable (60CM-Length) - $3.14
- SKU: 35687 - Car Cigarette Powered USB Adapter/Charger with Retractable USB to Micro USB Cable (Black) - $5.33
- SKU: 37396 - Gold Plated HDMI V1.4 Male to Micro HDMI Male Shielded Connection Cable (1M-Length) - $12.20
So far I have only received the USB cable and the car charger. They are the exact same cord but the car kit has the cigarette lighter plug. I am very happy with both items and I am just waiting on my hdmi cable which should be here any day. Anyways I just wanted to let you guys know that ya it comes from across the Pacific so it takes longer than most other places but for the price I dont think you can beat it.
Do they charge the phone quickly? especially curious about the car charger... does the phone see it as USB? If you're unsure, the easiest way I've found to check is to install "Battery Indicator" and see if it reads "AC" or "USB" in the notification drawer when charging. Seems to make a huge difference in charging times.
agent0014 said:
Do they charge the phone quickly? especially curious about the car charger... does the phone see it as USB? If you're unsure, the easiest way I've found to check is to install "Battery Indicator" and see if it reads "AC" or "USB" in the notification drawer when charging. Seems to make a huge difference in charging times.
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I'd imagine it would be the same at plugging it into a wall in your house. the charger changes the dc voltage from the cigarette lighter into 115 vac.
i think
I've got one of those mini cigarette usb charger rated ay 700ma at ebay. I think usb cable with the car charger can do about 500ma and wall outlet can do about 1000ma. Correct if I wrong.
chinot66 said:
I've got one of those mini cigarette usb charger rated ay 700ma at ebay. I think usb cable with the car charger can do about 500ma and wall outlet can do about 1000ma. Correct if I wrong.
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usb will give you 500ma, the htc wall wart you get is rated at 1a aka 1000ma.
the other i dont know.
jasongthang said:
I'd imagine it would be the same at plugging it into a wall in your house. the charger changes the dc voltage from the cigarette lighter into 115 vac.
i think
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It's actually the other way around. Though we use AC as our main power source most (not all) use DC power. It's a lot easier to change AC to DC and AC has the ability to transform to lower or higher voltages relatively easily and efficiently.
Most electronics run off of 12V or less.
FattySparks said:
It's actually the other way around. Though we use AC as our main power source most (not all) use DC power. It's a lot easier to change AC to DC and AC has the ability to transform to lower or higher voltages relatively easily and efficiently.
Most electronics run off of 12V or less.
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Click to collapse
Rectify! I mean . . . testify!
I really wanted to have a quick car charger, seems useless to me to have a slow charger in your car, would be fine having a slow charger in my house though. the car charger from the palm pre is a 1000 mAh charger, used it and it actually seems to charge faster than the htc home charger. $20 shipped from amazon.com
I got the same USB cable & car charger & an extra wall charger in a kit for <$4 shipped.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=715367
davebu said:
I really wanted to have a quick car charger, seems useless to me to have a slow charger in your car, would be fine having a slow charger in my house though. the car charger from the palm pre is a 1000 mAh charger, used it and it actually seems to charge faster than the htc home charger. $20 shipped from amazon.com
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This is specifically made for the ipod, but it would do the same thing and its a bit cheaper. http://www.amazon.com/Charging-Gene...5?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1279810668&sr=8-5
So I was getting a bit frustrated with buying single and dual USB car chargers that were rated at 1Amp/Port and still having the EVO showing USB charging. I have five chargers now and they all show USB Charging while in spare parts. So being frustrated, I wanted to figure out and solve the problem. After a lot of surfing and digging, I came across the answer. If you check out this wikipedia link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#Power
You'll find the answer in the Battery Charging Specification of the link:
"In Battery Charging Specification,[31] new powering modes are added to the USB specification. A host or hub Charging Downstream Port can supply a maximum of 1.5 A when communicating at low-bandwidth or full-bandwidth, a maximum of 900 mA when communicating at high-bandwidth, and as much current as the connector will safely handle when no communication is taking place; USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1500 mA by default. A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8 A of current at 5.25 V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8 A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification."
The key here is shorting the D+ and D- pins. Looking up the USB pinout can be found here:
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
So, taking my cheapest charger that I bought from Walmart for $5.99 that had dual ports that said it was rated at 1A/Port, I opened it up and soldered pins 2 and 3 together for each port and put it back together.
So now with my modified cheapo USB car charger I went to the car and plugged it in and plugged in the EVO. Low and behold, it now says it's "AC Charging" and now it will pull the full 1 Amp.
So with the result to my satisfaction, I opened up my other chargers, ranging from three different Scosche chargers and one single port Belkin 1 Amp charger, soldered pins 2 and 3 together, and now all of my chargers are showing "AC Charging" using the "Spare Parts" app.
Once you take the charger apart, it's fairly obvious which pins are 2 and 3. I guess I should have taken pictures of each one as I had it apart so you could see it.
I hope this helps others with getting the full charging capacity out of their 1 Amp car chargers. Because running Google Navigation or apps such as Pandora/Subsonic will really suck down the juice.
Wow.. great info! Thanks for posting that!
What gives you the impression that it's not drawing 1A when on an actual USB port...or vice versa, what guarantees you the 1A after this trick? ...(yes, I'm just trying to see your logic)...
RavenII said:
What gives you the impression that it's not drawing 1A when on an actual USB port...or vice versa, what guarantees you the 1A after this trick? ...(yes, I'm just trying to see your logic)...
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According to everything that I've read on how the EVO and other phones charge, unless it can detect that the charger is a dedicated charger and not connected to a computer, the phone will only draw a max of 500 milliamps at 5 volts. Most of the time, it will only draw 400 milliamps at 5 volts.
There are a lot of threads here on trying to get chargers rated at 1 amp to actually have the EVO charge at 1 amp. The secret is that the 2 and 3 pins must be shorted before the EVO will even attempt to draw more amperage then a normal USB port.
Though you should only do this mod if the charger is truly rated at 1 amp at 5 volts.
So, if I bridge pins 2 and 3, and ground pin 4...I should be able to get it to pull 1 amp and launch into car mode right?
scl23enn4m3 said:
So, if I bridge pins 2 and 3, and ground pin 4...I should be able to get it to pull 1 amp and launch into car mode right?
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Just bridge pins 2 and 3. Leave pin 4 alone. You could also mod a cable to do this, but make sure you never plug it into a computer!
The EVO will now see the charger as a dedicated charger and attempt to draw 1 amp. Though, based on what I have been reading, it wil more than likely draw 800 milliamps instead of 1000 milliamps. Same goes for USB charging at 400 milliamps instead of 500.
How did you get the belkin apart??
Can someone describe to me specifically what it looks like on 1A AC vs a 500mA?
I've tried plugging mine into a couple of 1A wall chargers that I have (including the HTC included charger) as well as my car and house 5mA chargers, and don't see the difference on screen.
ntron1 said:
How did you get the belkin apart??
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I had to use my pocket knife to slip it in between the spring loaded metal ground part and the plastic case. Make sure you identify which side will lift off. The top part is attached to one of the halves and you don't want to pry against that side. Just put a bit of pressure on each side until you can crack it apart. When putting it back together, I had to use some super glue on each side of the case after I had pressed it together. Just a couple of drops on each side and it looks none the worse for wear. Except it now charges at a a full amp (probably 800 milliamps)
Just to verify, this is the Belkin charger in question:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Micro-...3?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1283093014&sr=8-3
Andy S said:
Can someone describe to me specifically what it looks like on 1A AC vs a 500mA?
I've tried plugging mine into a couple of 1A wall chargers that I have (including the HTC included charger) as well as my car and house 5mA chargers, and don't see the difference on screen.
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Click to collapse
Download spare parts from the market. Under battery information it will tell you which mode it's charging in. Either USB or AC.
ChrisDos said:
Download spare parts from the market. Under battery information it will tell you which mode it's charging in. Either USB or AC.
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Thanks. I knew I was missing something.
Battery droid will also tell you USB vs. A/C charging.
Andy S said:
Can someone describe to me specifically what it looks like on 1A AC vs a 500mA?
I've tried plugging mine into a couple of 1A wall chargers that I have (including the HTC included charger) as well as my car and house 5mA chargers, and don't see the difference on screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go into Settings, About Phone, Battery... It will say under Battery Status (just in case you don't want to download a new app)
SteelH said:
Battery droid will also tell you USB vs. A/C charging.
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Click to collapse
JKGoodrich said:
Go into Settings, About Phone, Battery... It will say under Battery Status (just in case you don't want to download a new app)
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Click to collapse
Thanks all.
Now if I could find my soldering iron, I'll attempt this on my 1A wall charger from a time circa Rio Carbon
ChrisDos said:
I had to use my pocket knife to slip it in between the spring loaded metal ground part and the plastic case. Make sure you identify which side will lift off. The top part is attached to one of the halves and you don't want to pry against that side. Just put a bit of pressure on each side until you can crack it apart. When putting it back together, I had to use some super glue on each side of the case after I had pressed it together. Just a couple of drops on each side and it looks none the worse for wear. Except it now charges at a a full amp (probably 800 milliamps)
Just to verify, this is the Belkin charger in question:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Micro-...3?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1283093014&sr=8-3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, 5 minutes and worked like a champ.
Ten minutes of looking for a lost soldering iron, and the Rio Carbon's charger now shows AC. Cool.
Thanks. I'm planning a hardwired mod to make a physical mount (out of a $5 ebay belt clip that I'm going to saw the clip off of...) in the empty Nav hole on my car. Have been trying to find a cheap donar USB plug charger to wire straight into the fuse box, and this will make that search easier.
scl23enn4m3 said:
So, if I bridge pins 2 and 3, and ground pin 4...I should be able to get it to pull 1 amp and launch into car mode right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Back to this one about grounding pin 4. I know that in another thread someone mentioned hacking a cable on the mini USB end to bridge pins 4 and 5 (the "X" on the diagrams on the second page linked in the first post) to automatically put the car in "car dock" mode. Any ideas how we could accomplish this at the regular USB plug end, since there are only 4 contacts on that side?
Andy S said:
Ten minutes of looking for a lost soldering iron, and the Rio Carbon's charger now shows AC. Cool.
Back to this one about grounding pin 4. I know that in another thread someone mentioned hacking a cable on the mini USB end to bridge pins 4 and 5 (the "X" on the diagrams on the second page linked in the first post) to automatically put the car in "car dock" mode. Any ideas how we could accomplish this at the regular USB plug end, since there are only 4 contacts on that side?
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Click to collapse
Glad to see that the modified charger is showing AC. Afraid I don't know about the car dock mode. Haven't researched that yet.
Thanks again OP. Just modified one and it worked perfectly.
ChrisDos said:
Just bridge pins 2 and 3. Leave pin 4 alone. You could also mod a cable to do this, but make sure you never plug it into a computer!
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Click to collapse
I don't think you understood my question...Grounding 4 (same as bridging it to 5) should kick the phone into dock mod. So if I can pull an amp and get it into dock mod in my car, it'd be perfect.
Andy S said:
Back to this one about grounding pin 4. I know that in another thread someone mentioned hacking a cable on the mini USB end to bridge pins 4 and 5 (the "X" on the diagrams on the second page linked in the first post) to automatically put the car in "car dock" mode. Any ideas how we could accomplish this at the regular USB plug end, since there are only 4 contacts on that side?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe pin 4 doesn't get used so it's the one missing on the regular USB side...Based on that it would make sense for a wire from pin 4 to not extend all the way. You might just be stuck with with opening it towards the micro usb end.
My htc wall charger shows AC charging. So does my motorola car charger. Do I need to modify anything??
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
I have been on the hunt for a charger for my car and home that shows up as an AC charger so that I can get a faster charge. After a bit of tinkering I have found that all you need to do to get ANY charger to show up as a AC charger is to have 5V on the standard USB + & - leads and simply connect the two data wires together. This will tell the phone that this is an AC adaptor.
I actually bought a cheapo 1A USB car charger from DealExtreme and it was supposed to show up as an AC adaptor but it didn't. So I carefully opened it up and de-soldered the resistors that were connected to the data pins on the PCB and verified that there were no more connections going to the two data pins on the USB connector (the two middle pins) and then put a small dab of solder across them. I plugged my MonoPrice USB cable into it and went to my car. Lo and behold it shows up as an AC adaptor AND actually charges at the full 1 AMP capacity!
Just wanted to share this with you guys. If people want to send me their chargers I would be happy to mod them for you (just pay shipping). I was also thinking about picking up a bunch of the USB 1A car chargers from DealExtreme, modding them, and then re-selling them. Would anyone be interested?
houseofbugs said:
I have been on the hunt for a charger for my car and home that shows up as an AC charger so that I can get a faster charge. After a bit of tinkering I have found that all you need to do to get ANY charger to show up as a AC charger is to have 5V on the standard USB + & - leads and simply connect the two data wires together. This will tell the phone that this is an AC adaptor.
I actually bought a cheapo 1A USB car charger from DealExtreme and it was supposed to show up as an AC adaptor but it didn't. So I carefully opened it up and de-soldered the resistors that were connected to the data pins on the PCB and verified that there were no more connections going to the two data pins on the USB connector (the two middle pins) and then put a small dab of solder across them. I plugged my MonoPrice USB cable into it and went to my car. Lo and behold it shows up as an AC adaptor AND actually charges at the full 1 AMP capacity!
Just wanted to share this with you guys. If people want to send me their chargers I would be happy to mod them for you (just pay shipping). I was also thinking about picking up a bunch of the USB 1A car chargers from DealExtreme, modding them, and then re-selling them. Would anyone be interested?
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Thanks for the post! I just wanted to add to it a link which includes some more information about performing this "mod." I haven't done mine yet, but I intend to soon.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=767961
Sb22 said:
Thanks for the post! I just wanted to add to it a link which includes some more information about performing this "mod." I haven't done mine yet, but I intend to soon.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=767961
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Thanks for that link! I didn't know if anyone else tried this yet. But I can verify that it works perfectly! The best part is that my car charger looks stock as I used 2-part epoxy to glue it back together.
i have said it before and i will say it agai , fast full 1amp charges a bad for your battery and do not allow proper charges this you get **** for battery life.
nice mods but not good for battery life
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v_lestat said:
i have said it before and i will say it again , fast full 1amp charges are bad for your battery and do not allow proper charges. you get **** for battery life.
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i heard you say that before, and i thought you were full of crap. after trying it for several charge cycles, it is plain as day. your battery charge WILL last longer from a slow usb half amp charge. seriously.
sometimes, however, it isn't worth waiting for. in a "non-primary" charging location such as a car, I can see the benefit in catching a quicker "top-off" charge.
I know your post is old, but THANK YOU MAN !!, i was having trouble obtaining only 100mAh from a AA-battery portable charger, modded a cable and now it's working so fine !!
Hmm, I could probably modify one of my short USB extension cables and cut off the data pins and keep that cable somewhere for cases where i'd prefer the turbo charge... Just snap on this usb extension cable (or maybe even an adapter) and boom you're getting the 1A charge
PS: my old WinXP box actually complains and shuts off the usb port if it sucks more than usual 500 mA, you would need to solder two usb connectors in parallel to fix that
I just picked one up at walmart for $16. Its rated at 5v 2.1 amps. So it should work, but it still shows a red x on the tab when charging. I'm probably gonna take it back. Does anybody know of a car charger that plays nice with our Tabs?
Yadao said:
I just picked one up at walmart for $16. Its rated at 5v 2.1 amps. So it should work, but it still shows a red x on the tab when charging. I'm probably gonna take it back. Does anybody know of a car charger that plays nice with our Tabs?
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Sounds like it is not seeing some sort of required voltage or signal on one of it's pins to tell it to charge at full power. Or maybe it is charging at full power but because of this required voltage or signal the TAB doesn't show it. Someone on the Asus Transformer forum really delved into the Asus connector and found all kinds of interesting stuff like that,
Maybe I'll do some timed charging tests then.
It's probably not outputting enough power. You need 2amp charger like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-reVIV...NO4Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1309665830&sr=8-3
It is a 2 amp charger.
Edit: Its this charger, just sold without the cable.
http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Technology-PowerJolt-Charger-iPhone/dp/B003GAAQXM/ref=pd_cp_e_1
It's not the amperage - it's the pin configuration. The Samsung chargers have a different pin configuration that tells the tab to start charging. Note that the pin swap happens in the charger unit, not in the data/charging cable so it's not enough to use a stock USB charger with the cable that came with your tab.
You can get adapters off of ebay that turn a regular USB charger into a "Samsung tab charger", you'd plug the adapter into the USB charger then the cable that came with the tab into the adapter and it should start charging.
This thread has more info on the adapters:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1116496
Thanks for the info. It definitely wasn't charging. I had it plugged in for a half hour with no percentage increase. Just returned it.
I don't have the resistors to reproduce my findings but found that there is a residence of 8.28k ohms between ground and both d+ and d-. 8.43k ohms between 5v and both d+ and d-. 0.7 ohms between d+ and d-.
I expect that in these adapters that there are two resisters and a diode.
Can any one verify this?
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ericlmccormick said:
I don't have the resistors to reproduce my findings but found that there is a residence of 8.28k ohms between ground and both d+ and d-. 8.43k ohms between 5v and both d+ and d-. 0.7 ohms between d+ and d-.
I expect that in these adapters that there are two resisters and a diode.
Can any one verify this?
Sent from my GT-P7510 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Tab fast charges if you short D+ and D-, otherwise it's limited to 500mA.
I tried connecting the pins together, connecting both to ground and both to positive and none of those configurations put it into charge mode. When I test what comes out of my charger, I get 1.248 between the data pins and ground.
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ericlmccormick said:
I tried connecting the pins together, connecting both to ground and both to positive and none of those configurations put it into charge mode. When I test what comes out of my charger, I get 1.248 between the data pins and ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to let the d+/d- pins float.
If you let them float, then you get the same red x. Before you said you needed to short them. What are you shorting them to?
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ericlmccormick said:
If you let them float, then you get the same red x. Before you said you needed to short them. What are you shorting them to?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I thought I already tested my Tab with my adapter that seems to work for everything else. Turns out it gives me the red X too. I guess Samsung can't follow a standard (though not as bad as the Transformer's adapter/cable).
The 8.3k or so between both d+/d- and ground and d+/d- and +5V is misleading since we're seeing 1.2V at the data pins. This post implies that it's actually a 33K/10K divider from +5V to ground which makes the 1.2V make sense. I'll try this later tonight if I can find some spare USB connectors.
The 33k/10k spilt did the trick!
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See my post here.
Scosche makes Galaxy Tab specific 2.1amp car chargers with 1 and with 2 USB slots. Go here: http://www.scosche.com/consumer-tech/search/ and type USB in the search box on the top of the page. On the resulting page of USB devices you will find the Galaxy specific models.
They make identical models of "generic" USB car chargers which you can find cheap on eBay and just use the SAMSUNG CHARGING ADAPTER to make it work but the Galaxy Specific models are a cleaner install.
MisterEdF said:
Scosche makes Galaxy Tab specific 2.1amp car chargers with 1 and with 2 USB slots. Go here: http://www.scosche.com/consumer-tech/search/ and type USB in the search box on the top of the page. On the resulting page of USB devices you will find the Galaxy specific models.
They make identical models of "generic" USB car chargers which you can find cheap on eBay and just use the SAMSUNG CHARGING ADAPTER to make it work but the Galaxy Specific models are a cleaner install.
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Click to collapse
Good find. I saw those on Amazon, but they seemed expensive, and I couldn't find any info at the time about whether it worked on the 10.1 or just the original Tab. I like the low profile one, but it is only single port. The dual-port looks too large for my setup.
I also got 4x China chargers for the price of one of those. =/
The Scosche iPad chargers such as the reVIVE II for iPad can be modified. Mine's in the car so I can't provide the exact resistor location or pictures, however:
If you open the reVIVE II and you look at the board with the plug portion to the left and the USB jacks to the right:
The upper USB jack is the 2.1A port. You need to perform the following mods to make it charge the tab:
Take D+ and D- and short them together. Solder blob will do this.
At this point instead of having 2.0v on one pin and 2.8v on the other (Resistors used for telling Apple iDevices to charge at 1A+), you will have 2.4v on both pins.
On the upper edge of the board there will be three resistors. The rightmost one is the current limiter for the power LED. (It should have a trace going to the LED)
The next one is part of the voltage dividers for one of the USB pins. Specifically, the voltage divider that originally generated 2.8v. Remove this resistor. I believe it has "62C" printed on it. Remove it - it'll be a pain in the ass. Tiny part, lead-free solder with ridiculously high melting temp.
At this point, if you reassemble the charger, you should see around 1.2-1.24 volts on D+ and D-. Congratulations, you now have a Galaxy Tab car charger.
flarbear said:
You can get adapters off of ebay that turn a regular USB charger into a "Samsung tab charger", you'd plug the adapter into the USB charger then the cable that came with the tab into the adapter and it should start charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THANKS!!! I was wondering why my 2.1A USB car charger wasn't working. Well, now I know and hopefully this adapter plug that I just ordered off of ebay will do the trick.
I'm trying to figure out what the best way to implement a hardwired charger.. more specifically in terms of getting the most mA as I can. What I understand is that when the data pins on a USB charger are floating, the phone requests only for 500mA. When the data pins are shorted, the phone requests for 1A (or 1000mA). On any decent 5v ciglighter /wall outlet phone charger, I understand that the charger shorts these data pins, allowing for that full 1A charging capacity.
I plan to use one of these ebay 12v to 5v converters:
http://tinyurl.com/oogbhyn
..and splice a standard micro-usb connector to the 5v output, also connecting both data wires together.
If I understand this correctly, would this provide 1A to the phone? Does anyone see any implications?
Thanks!
Smiert said:
I'm trying to figure out what the best way to implement a hardwired charger.. more specifically in terms of getting the most mA as I can. What I understand is that when the data pins on a USB charger are floating, the phone requests only for 500mA. When the data pins are shorted, the phone requests for 1A (or 1000mA). On any decent 5v ciglighter /wall outlet phone charger, I understand that the charger shorts these data pins, allowing for that full 1A charging capacity.
I plan to use one of these ebay 12v to 5v converters:
http://tinyurl.com/oogbhyn
..and splice a standard micro-usb connector to the 5v output, also connecting both data wires together.
If I understand this correctly, would this provide 1A to the phone? Does anyone see any implications?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In theory it should work OK.
I would recommend a few things. Make sure that dc-dc converter is easily accessible if you need to check it or smell a smoke in the car. Don't bury it too deeply where you will have to take too many things apart to get to it. I made plenty of mistakes in the past where years later wire cracks or connector is not making a good contact and I have to take the whole damn thing apart to get to it Also, I would STRONGLY recommend to add in-line blade fuse, like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-..._Video_Fuses_Fuse_Holders&hash=item3f2dc85fa3
The last thing you want is to damage your phone if you get some in-rush spike. DC-DC converter looks ok, but you never know what could go wrong if it overheats and something shorts out. At least you will have a fuse to protect your 5V power supply line going to the phone. And since blade fuses are replaceable, you just pop in 1.5A or 2A, obviously don't use 10A that comes with it.
Once you done, comeback and post some DIY pics!!!
I was planning to use these add-a-fuse circuit extensions. I'll be sure to pick up some 2A fuses (supposedly the smallest fuse for mini-fuses)!
I want to actually hardwire chargers for two things into my car; my phone, to the left of the steering wheel dash, and a recently acquired dashcam right next to the rearview mirror. I drive a little Mazda so space isn't plentiful. The fusebox is to the left of the driver's left foot, so I planned to wire two add-a-fuse circuits; bring one up 2~ feet before the windshield pillar (phone), and the other along the pillar, over the headliner, where it would go to the 5v converter, and then bring the mini-usb cable where the headliner and windshield connect. There really isn't much I can work with..
Do you think that sun damage would damage the exposed cable? Perhaps it would be better to have an exposed female-usb outlet "installed" and use adapters to charge the electronics?
Smiert said:
I was planning to use these add-a-fuse circuit extensions. I'll be sure to pick up some 2A fuses (supposedly the smallest fuse for mini-fuses)!
I want to actually hardwire chargers for two things into my car; my phone, to the left of the steering wheel dash, and a recently acquired dashcam right next to the rearview mirror. I drive a little Mazda so space isn't plentiful. The fusebox is to the left of the driver's left foot, so I planned to wire two add-a-fuse circuits; bring one up 2~ feet before the windshield pillar (phone), and the other along the pillar, over the headliner, where it would go to the 5v converter, and then bring the mini-usb cable where the headliner and windshield connect. There really isn't much I can work with..
Do you think that sun damage would damage the exposed cable? Perhaps it would be better to have an exposed female-usb outlet "installed" and use adapters to charge the electronics?
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I have my Passport X50 wired through a-pillar. It's not usb, but 12V tapped off cigarette lighter internal wires so I can use another usb converter plugged into a cigarette lighter.. l was able to run the wire under upholstery of my GS350, but it was kind of tricky. I actually used credit card to push it in along the edge. Otherwise it would not look clean, and will be exposed to a sun - in my opinion sun damage is a problem. Perhaps get one of those cigarette lighter to AC adapters and use something like that 40W 5-port Anker wall charger I just reviewed?
I want to do the same, but for a dashcam.
Can I tap in to the power line that goes to the auto dimming rear view mirror and connect something like this to it?
Does the converter comes with a fuse or do I need to add an additional fuse?
Thanks in advance