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All of the instructions I found for doing this weren't exactly clear, so I'm writing this out in a way that even dummies like me can understand. So, my Nvidia Shield TV got soft bricked when I tried to update my TWRP to this version.
First, you have two options for the cables:
This: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=9724
and this: http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5443
Plug them into each other so they're just 1 cable now.
The second option is to use a USB to micro USB data/charging cable, like the one that it came with.
Here are the steps, read it completely through 1 time before doing anything. I find that makes things easier to understand when you're ready to actually do it.
Install FASTBOOT DRIVERS: https://developer.nvidia.com/gameworksdownload#?search=SHIELD Family Windows USB
Install Minimal FASTBOOT & ADB: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2317790
Download OS Image: https://developer.nvidia.com/gameworksdownload
Extract the OS Image to your desktop.
Go to the installation folder for Minimal FASTBOOT & ADB and copy its contents into the OS Image folder you just created.
Open a Windows command prompt in this folder.
Make sure power cable & USB OTG cable on NSATV are UNPLUGGED.
Make sure HDMI cable is PLUGGED IN.
Plug the standard USB end of the USB OTG cable pair into a PC.
*** DO THE STEPS BELOW IN THE EXACT ORDER ***
Plug in USB OTG end of the USB OTG cable pair into NSATV.
Plug in the power cable. The next step follows quick.
Quickly touch and hold the power button until the FASTBOOT screen appears on your TV, then release.
Now, go back to your PC.
In the Windows command prompt, type: fastboot devices
Make sure the fastboot device appears.
If you see your fastboot device, then you can follow the instructions in the HowTo-Flash-Recovery-Image.txt file.
I hope this helps. If there's any part that's confusing, let me know and I'll edit it.
Yeah, you guys are awsome, it worked!!!!!
Thanks so much for all your help and advice :good:
You could also just use the charge cable that you get for your controllers rather than buying the extra cables, it works fine.
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
gffmac said:
You could also just use the charge cable that you get for your controllers rather than buying the extra cables, it works fine.
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't need an OTG cable?
Nope, using the supplied cable just connect the micro usb end to shield other to PC and bobs your uncle ?
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
any idea if this will work for my shield 16GB? since i was updating it to 3.0 this morning and the electric went now all it does it boot right to TWRP recovery. also i still have access to fastboot.
beefy143 said:
any idea if this will work for my shield 16GB? since i was updating it to 3.0 this morning and the electric went now all it does it boot right to TWRP recovery. also i still have access to fastboot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It should?
tried and no it does not just left at the nvidia boot creen with the odd black screen reboot back to the nvidia symbol any ideas as to what i can do to fix my shield?
beefy143 said:
tried and no it does not just left at the nvidia boot creen with the odd black screen reboot back to the nvidia symbol any ideas as to what i can do to fix my shield?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Follow the instructions EXACTLY. I have the 16Gb model and mine was doing the same thing as yours.
Just to repeat what others said the back of the shield TV has a microusb port so you don't need a otg cable just use any standard microusb cable you have laying around plug small end into shield TV and big end to laptop/computer
Hi!
I tried but failed. The issue is, that it reboots directly after showing the recovery menu.
Only see it 2 seconds, then reboot. No reaction on menu choices...
I guess it happened when I tried to copy the SD card to another one.
You should be using fast boot to do this. Plus, there's no SD card in the instructions. Not sure what you are trying to do.
JoCamel said:
Hi!
I tried but failed. The issue is, that it reboots directly after showing the recovery menu.
Only see it 2 seconds, then reboot. No reaction on menu choices...
I guess it happened when I tried to copy the SD card to another one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try again without an sd card attached maybe. Also try 'fastboot boot recovery.img' instead of flashing it.
Neo3D said:
[*]In the Windows command prompt, type: fastboot devices
[*]Make sure the fastboot device appears.
[*]If you see your fastboot device, then you can follow the instructions
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
All fine up to that point... Fastboot Devices... nothing shows up!
? anyone?
My box is stock, I have not messed with it at all.
if i not enable debug? how to do?
fredphoesh said:
Hi
All fine up to that point... Fastboot Devices... nothing shows up!
? anyone?
My box is stock, I have not messed with it at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be a driver issue? Make sure the drivers are properly installed and working? Try rebooting?
Will these steps work with the 2017 16GB version? Cause I want to have full Android on the Shield but the processes I've seen are pretty confusing.
I want to try this, will this work with the new 5.2 update?
Jabadabaduu!! It solved my problem
Hey Neo
First of all, your guide saved my day! - Thanx!
I know this must be a strange question, but is the person on your XDA profile picture, and the one that has written the article really the same person ?
Neo3D said:
All of the instructions I found for doing this weren't exactly clear, so I'm writing this out in a way that even dummies like me can understand. So, my Nvidia Shield TV got soft bricked when I tried to update my TWRP to this version.
First, you have two options for the cables:
This: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=9724
and this: http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5443
Plug them into each other so they're just 1 cable now.
The second option is to use a USB to micro USB data/charging cable, like the one that it came with.
Here are the steps, read it completely through 1 time before doing anything. I find that makes things easier to understand when you're ready to actually do it.
Install FASTBOOT DRIVERS: https://developer.nvidia.com/gameworksdownload#?search=SHIELD Family Windows USB
Install Minimal FASTBOOT & ADB: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2317790
Download OS Image: https://developer.nvidia.com/gameworksdownload
Extract the OS Image to your desktop.
Go to the installation folder for Minimal FASTBOOT & ADB and copy its contents into the OS Image folder you just created.
Open a Windows command prompt in this folder.
Make sure power cable & USB OTG cable on NSATV are UNPLUGGED.
Make sure HDMI cable is PLUGGED IN.
Plug the standard USB end of the USB OTG cable pair into a PC.
*** DO THE STEPS BELOW IN THE EXACT ORDER ***
Plug in USB OTG end of the USB OTG cable pair into NSATV.
Plug in the power cable. The next step follows quick.
Quickly touch and hold the power button until the FASTBOOT screen appears on your TV, then release.
Now, go back to your PC.
In the Windows command prompt, type: fastboot devices
Make sure the fastboot device appears.
If you see your fastboot device, then you can follow the instructions in the HowTo-Flash-Recovery-Image.txt file.
I hope this helps. If there's any part that's confusing, let me know and I'll edit it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, works like a charm
TCL dont want to help fix this issues when i contact them with this issues they just tell me buy a TV frome another brand if am not happy with TCL.
This issues was direclty out of box never rooted it, so this problie is becouse of a systemapp some is pre-installed had not this issues with my old 2017 TCL Android TV.
And i dont get any help frome TCL for get the adb and stuff i need to try fix this on a TV, on a phone feels like mutch easer becouse i have cabel everything but they dosent relly even send with a cabel on a TV for do some adb.
So i think ask here see if i can get help frome the communty to fix this.
can you actually go in recovery mode? hold power button on the TV for a bit (led starts blinking).
edit: btw i managed to root my ep680 (android 9) and i never got something like that...
fuqi said:
can you actually go in recovery mode? hold power button on the TV for a bit (led starts blinking).
edit: btw i managed to root my ep680 (android 9) and i never got something like that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has ben doing a recovery reset of the TV with a new download file frome tcl webpages, and used the powerbutton on the TV for flash the OS frome scratch again.
The only thing its was going was to create a dubbel device into my Google Play Device list, after that was finnish noting mutch else happens.
try this one : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yNQ6myjzFEapBa4KM2eNHoaGiJiAIqHw/view?usp=sharing
extract the rar and put the Update.img on a usb stick. Reboot in Recovery Mode.
fuqi said:
try this one : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yNQ6myjzFEapBa4KM2eNHoaGiJiAIqHw/view?usp=sharing
extract the rar and put the Update.img on a usb stick. Reboot in Recovery Mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will try it, becouse this fil i have frome TCL webpages only is V8-R851T02-LF1V179, this look like to be 187 returning back after trying it.
Edit: done the update now still the same issues.
wow thats strange... because this is a different update file > deletes everything (factory restore image)
i guess the only thing you can do is debug via serial cable....
fuqi said:
wow thats strange... because this is a different update file > deletes everything (factory restore image)
i guess the only thing you can do is debug via serial cable....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have order one, get it on like 16th, its still far away. But am return when am get the cabel.
what cable did u order?
you know debug on this tv is via hdmi 2 port?
fuqi said:
what cable did u order?
you know debug on this tv is via hdmi 2 port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB Type A to USB Type A its that connection i have.
fuqi said:
what cable did u order?
you know debug on this tv is via hdmi 2 port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That i did not know, cold you write the steps for debug on this device?
USB A to A does not work. I ordered myself one
First of all. Can you even go in the Engineering Menu? Settings > Picture > Advanced Settings > Brightness Settings > Contrast (just be there) and Press 1950 on the Remote
see Pictures
edit: there's also a picture from my "ghetto" setup using a raspberry pi2
fuqi said:
USB A to A does not work. I ordered myself one
First of all. Can you even go in the Engineering Menu? Settings > Picture > Advanced Settings > Brightness Settings > Contrast (just be there) and Press 1950 on the Remote
see Pictures
edit: there's also a picture from my "ghetto" setup using a raspberry pi2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not anymore am just pack it down and send it back to the retailers, was feeling like easer go buy me a Sony ZG9 and skip all the issues, at the same time am upgraded frome a 4K to a 8K TV.
recovery , root
fuqi said:
can you actually go in recovery mode? hold power button on the TV for a bit (led starts blinking).
edit: btw i managed to root my ep680 (android 9) and i never got something like that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, can you tell us how to root tcl ep680?
When I press and hold power it enter briefly in a screen with a dead android - no command , and after that it continues booting.
you need a hdmi to uart cable.
if you need more infos just ask
I have only usb to usb cable , I can enter in service menu , and I have acces via adb-wifi. My tv is 55ep660 but it look very similar as platform it is also rt2851.
i'm pretty sure there is "Service Port" written on your HDMI 2 Port ?
USB Cable won't work at all. Trust me.
fuqi said:
i'm pretty sure there is "Service Port" written on your HDMI 2 Port ?
USB Cable won't work at all. Trust me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it is , I am just asking about the steps , anyway how does it look a hdmi to uart ( rs232 maybe ) cable?
mihaianti said:
Yes it is , I am just asking about the steps , anyway how does it look a hdmi to uart ( rs232 maybe ) cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you need to make a cable (urself, there is none to buy on the internet) with the shematics in the picture.
to communicate with the tv u need either a raspberry pi (or clone) or a usb to serial device with a ftdi chip.
i highly recommand a raspberry pi.
so the best way is to get a hdmi breakout board from amazon. (see picture)
then you can access a root shell via recovery and modify the system. but first you need to disable SELinux and AVB.
Disable AVB took me forever to figure out. Because if it's enabled all changes will be overwritten on every boot. There is no way magisk will work on this TV.
The Boot file gets written to the partition from a encrypted AES file on every boot.
fuqi said:
you need to make a cable (urself, there is none to buy on the internet) with the shematics in the picture.
to communicate with the tv u need either a raspberry pi (or clone) or a usb to serial device with a ftdi chip.
i highly recommand a raspberry pi.
so the best way is to get a hdmi breakout board from amazon. (see picture)
then you can access a root shell via recovery and modify the system. but first you need to disable SELinux and AVB.
Disable AVB took me forever to figure out. Because if it's enabled all changes will be overwritten on every boot. There is no way magisk will work on this TV.
The Boot file gets written to the partition from a encrypted AES file on every boot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok , thank you!
it can not download.......
fuqi said:
i'm pretty sure there is "Service Port" written on your HDMI 2 Port ?
USB Cable won't work at all. Trust me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please @fuqi, if there's a way, could you please show us how we could wire HDMI to USB connection so I could install an update since HDMI is the service port and whatever image I put in USB it doesn't work.
Basically I want to downgrade from rbox's pre-rooted version 5.2.7.2_r1 back to 5.2.6.3_r1.
I use ADB via Windows 10 with no problems, I've access to SU, FireTV is rooted and TWRP 3.0.0.7 is installed.
In the past I would just boot into TWRP recovery and select any of rbox' pre-rooted rom and hit install/upgrade and all went well since 2016.
This is the first time trying to downgrade, TWRP recovery went well 5.2.6.3_r1 got installed, but no way to login into my Amazon A/C (kept saying login/password combinations not correct, but they were 100% correct).
One thing interesting is before I could see my bootloader as fully unlocked as "[email protected]", but now I see its only partial unlocked ([email protected])?
Update:
It seems like I do have rooo#bueller? from this picture after typing adb shell and su?
Any help will be much appreciated!
In regards to your original post on the bueller thread - have you tried re-enabling updates? A few other members here found that disabling updates on their sloane (see here) stopped them from using particular apps on 5.2.7.2 until they re-enabled updates, allowed the Fire TV to download updated apk files & then disabled them again
If that doesn't work: I had a Fire TV recently that I thought it was blacklisted by Amazon (wouldn't log in with the correct details), but turns out it was just never registered as a AFTV on their end & was being refused a connection. This obviously won't be your case, but something similar could be happening, so I would suggest you remove the device from your account (here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/hz/mycd/myx#/home/devices/1) & then attempt to log in again - if this doesn't work, maybe talk to Amazon via their live chat, ask them to register your device to your account manually (they'll happily do it) & attempt login again after a hour or two (that worked for me).
edit: I've just seen your latest post about bricking - general rule of thumb (as far as I'm aware) is that anything after 5.2.6.8 shouldn't be rolled back to pre-5.2.6.8 due to changes within the partitions, therefore, if you do so, you essentially brick your device after reboot as the prerooted zip only flashes boot/preloader/LK, then at boot, the rpmb checks to see if all those files match & when they don't, sends the device into a bootloop. If this was a Fire TV 2, you'd be in luck, but unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any way to unbrick a Fire TV 1 on the latest software yet?
If you're bootloader unlocked, you might be able to get into fastboot & fix it from there, but I'm not clued up on the Fire TV 1 bl unlock unfortunately.
DanielF50 said:
I've just seen your latest post about bricking - general rule of thumb (as far as I'm aware) is that anything after 5.2.6.8 shouldn't be rolled back to pre-5.2.6.8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Completely right for the second gen fireTV :good:
But the first gen fireTV isn't a MTK SOC device, the SOC is from broadcom with different booting stages. In case of a rooted box, you can up- & downgrade to any fireOS 5 version if you like.
DanielF50 said:
there doesn't seem to be any way to unbrick a Fire TV 1 on the latest software yet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a way, but it requires hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron) and at least some soldering skills.
DanielF50 said:
If you're bootloader unlocked, you might be able to get into fastboot & fix it from there, but I'm not clued up on the Fire TV 1 bl unlock unfortunately.[/B]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some guys have tried it, it's all in the bueller prerooted rom thread.
Hi Daniel, thanks for taking the time to write.
Yes my bootloader is fully unlocked, and my unit is rooted with TWRP installed.
Hi Sus_i, where are you at? If you can try the "hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron)" thing on my FireTV, I will compensate you for your time and ship the unit to you (I'm near the border, so US/CAN addresses are fine with me).
Ok, this is what happened in my case:
My FireTV 1 background - bought directly from Amazon, rooted back in 2015/2016, bootloader fully unlocked and TWRP installed in 2017.
1) Was running on rbox's pre-rooted 5.2.6.3_r1
2) Updated to rbox's 5.2.7.2_r1 and discovered that upon resuming/waking up from sleep the unit always return to the Home page instead of whatever page/Tab you left it as in 5.2.6.3_r1, also Alexa and few other APPS were automatically installed in 5.2.7.2_r1.
I only use 4 APPS on my FireTV, an APK from my IPTV (90 %), VLC to watch videos from my own local Network (5%), CX_File Explorer to move/transfer files (3%) and NewPipe (alternative to YouTube) (2%).
rbox’s pre-rooted 5.2.6.3_r1 is perfect for my needs above, as I NEVER need to see the Amazon Home screen or any ads. Only the 1st time after a power off/on that I would ever see the Home page and from there on I would navigate to the “Settings” Tab – “Applications” Tab – “Manage Applications” and I only see a few pre-installed APPS from Amazon and my 4 APPS above and going to sleep mode and waking up sleep mode always stays in the “Manage Applications” Tab and NOT Amazon Home page as in 5.2.7.2_r1.
3) Flashing back from 5.2.7.2_r1 to 5.2.6.3_r1/5.2.7.0_r1/5.2.6.9_r1 to no avail because I would always get an error stating Login ID/password combinations were in errors (Login ID/password were 100% dead correct), also the Developer Options would also no longer showing under My Device/My FireTV Tab. Amazon FireTV support would be quick to add the FireTV under my profile (because they could see I bought it directly from them back in 2014 and they also could see my serial numbers and all along I was the only one registered for this unit), but still no go, so I tried to de-register/re-register again during all the testing and Amazon must had added the FireTV to my profile at least 10 times and in the end it escalated to the point they credited my account $25.00 (this is usually the price of the FireTV Stick 4K during sales/promotions) and also at the same time sent out a FireTV Stick 4K to me FOC.
I’m not a FireTV expert, but just an ordinary user with some sys/programming backgrounds during my early years. I reckon Amazon must had implemented some sort of hard coded checks either on their side (registration) or in the firmware since 5.2.6.3_r1.
4) So now my unit is flashed with 5.2.6.3_r1 and couldn’t get passed the registration screen, what do I do? I re-flash it to 5.2.7.2_r1 and bingo, everything is back to normal again and don’t even need to register the unit. (For testing purposes, I removed my A/C from the unit and re-register again and this time Login ID/password got no errors).
5) Thinking that back from Windows 98SE/2000/XP Pro/W7 Pro and now Windows 10 Pro, no matter what kind of messed I created, I would just format the drive/write zeros and re-image (Ghost image Back-ups) and everything would be normal again. My fireTV is rooted, bootloader is fully unlocked and TWRP installed, I told myself what’s there to afraid of , so I tried to re-flash 5.2.7.2_r1 to 5.2.6.3_r1/5.2.7.0_r1 and it would always back to the registration error and now double icons under settings, lol.
6) I suspect during one of the re-flash I made a mistake of after clearing/wipe Cache/Dalvik, instead of the default reboot, I ESC back out and redo the install/re-flash thinking that might get rids of all the leftovers that cause the double icons under Settings.
7) Now I’m left with the white Amazon logo on my TV screen and white pulsing light on the unit itself. I like to think that the motherboard or the power unit are still alive, just that the software part of it got messed up by ME big time!
Matt_7 said:
Now I’m left with the white Amazon logo on my TV screen and white pulsing light on the unit itself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like DanielF50 said, as a first step you may try to connect with fastboot, use an usb a-to-a cable and run: fastboot devices
Sus_i said:
Completely right for the second gen fireTV :good:
But the first gen fireTV isn't a MTK SOC device, the SOC is from broadcom with different booting stages. In case of a rooted box, you can up- & downgrade to any fireOS 5 version if you like.
There is a way, but it requires hardware (low voltage emmc adapter, a special sdcard reader, small soldering iron) and at least some soldering skills.
Some guys have tried it, it's all in the bueller prerooted rom thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good information to know, thanks Sus_i :good:
Reading Matt's response, it looks hopeful that he should be able to fastboot into the device to recover it then.
Sus_i said:
Like DanielF50 said, as a first step you may try to connect with fastboot, use an usb a-to-a cable and run: fastboot devices
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I'll get the USB A to A cable, how does one run the fastboot?
Once I connect the FireTV to my PC using the USB A- A cable, what will happen? do I need to install anything on my Windows 10 to run fastboot?
Update:
OK, dfound out I already have fastboot in my platform-tools folder,
From AFTNews:
Enter the command:
fastboot devices
If your computer has correctly detected your Fire TV, you will see a series of numbers followed by the word “fastboot” after entering the above command.
Download the latest version of ClockworkMod custom recovery from AFTVnews.com/recovery
Rename the file you just downloaded to “recovery.img”
Enter the command:
fastboot flash recovery recovery.img
(Be sure to replacerecovery.img with the full path to the file you just renamed)
Enter the command:
fastboot boot recovery.img
(Be sure to replacerecovery.img with the full path to the file you just renamed)
Your Fire TV should now boot into ClockworkMod recovery. Proceed to follow the steps in the next section below labeled “Resetting with Recovery Mode”.
Resetting with Recovery Mode
If you can successfully enter ClockworkMod recovery, then follow the below steps to reset your Fire TV, regardless of what state it is in and what has been done to it. You can also follow these steps if, for example, you want to update your ROM but aren’t sure if you’ve unlocked your bootloader or aren’t sure if you’ve installed the boot menu.
[OPTIONAL] From within ClockworkMod, select the option to “wipe data/factory reset”. This will delete all of your settings and user data. It is an optional step, but is recommended.
From within ClockworkMod, select the option to “wipe cache partition”.
Follow my guide to install pre-rooted Stock ROM version 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated. Note, you are NOT installing the latest pre-rooted ROM on purpose. Do NOT skip ahead and install the latest pre-rooted ROM.
Restart your Fire TV. You should be able to boot normally.
Follow my guide to install BusyBox.
Follow my guide to unlock your bootloader.
Follow my guide to install the boot menu.
Follow my guide to install the latest pre-rooted ROM.
Do I need to redo all these? I already have TWRP. If I'm to do the above I would end up with both TWRP recovery and ClockworkMod custom recovery, right?
Once done, do I actually install the 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated or 5.2.6.3_r1?
Pardon my ignorance!
Matt_7 said:
OK, I'll get the USB A to A cable, how does one run the fastboot?
Once I connect the FireTV to my PC using the USB A- A cable, what will happen? do I need to install anything on my Windows 10 to run fastboot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, bundled with android-sdk so runs just like you'd use adb, but obviously has a different purpose/commands - I should think there would be info on the full bootloader unlock thread on how to use it to recover from a bootloop using fastboot?
Matt_7 said:
Do I need to redo all these? I already have TWRP. If I'm to do the above I would end up with both TWRP recovery and ClockworkMod custom recovery, right?
Once done, do I actually install the 51.1.4.0_514006420 updated or 5.2.6.3_r1?
Pardon my ignorance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try to boot the recovery.img (boot... not flash!)
This means, grab the latest prerooted, extract the recovery.img into the fastboot/adb folder. Check/connect with fastboot devices and run: fastboot boot recovery.img
In case this fails, you may carefully follow the guide you've posted above.
Sus_i said:
You can try to boot the recovery.img (boot... not flash!)
This means, grab the latest prerooted, extract the recovery.img into the fastboot/adb folder. Check/connect with fastboot devices and run: fastboot boot recovery.img
In case this fails, you may carefully follow the guide you've posted above.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will try and report back.
I actually made a copy of "bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img", "bootmenu.img" and "recovery.img" which I copied from the FireTV before flashing, I reckon I can use the "recovery.img"?
Matt_7 said:
OK, will try and report back.
I actually made a copy of "bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img", "bootmenu.img" and "recovery.img" which I copied from the FireTV before flashing, I reckon I can use the "recovery.img"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would try to boot bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img and recovery.img
Update 3:
Gosh, I got it to the point of checking for updates and unplugged the internet cable hoping to issue via adb to block OTA, and the FireTV detected no internet connection and asked to unplug the power for a few minutes and I did that, but now no whatsoever light on the FIreTV itself, don't tell me its now dead not because I bricked it the other day, but because of the power unit?
Tested the power adapter with a multimeter, got 6.18V (6.25 is printed on the power adapter), since 6.18V is close to 6.25V, its not the power adapter right?
Update 2:
OK, figured out I could remove the USB A to A cable and use the USB port on the FireTV to connect my Logitech K400 ! (see, I'm not a very smart person!)
- I deleted "Data"
- Tried to wipe cache and got a message "No OS installed"
- No choice but to select install option and install 5.2.7.2_r1
- Now at least I'm seeing the Colourful Amazon logo again, and now its doing the "Optimizing system storage and applications...", wish me luck!
Update 1:
Just received my USB A to A Male to Male (LOL) cable today.
Don't know to jump for joy or cry!
- When I typed "fastbbot devices", I got exactly from "AFTNews - If your computer has correctly detected your Fire TV, you will see a series of numbers followed by the word “fastboot” after entering the above command.", I got the screen showing me my device/serial number and the word fastboot, so I think its working!
- I then typed "fastboot boot bueller-twrp_3.0.0-7.img" and the white Amazon logo was gone I was back in TWRP screen, but I couldn't do anything, the USB port is already used by the USB A to A cable (USB splitter couldn't work either), I see the mouse pointer, but how to move it to reboot/wipe/install/advance etc?
Mayday, help!
Matt_7 said:
Update 1:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
Matt_7 said:
Update 2:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
Matt_7 said:
Update 3:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pull all the plugs from the box + tv and try again...
6.xx v seems ok. Any voltage drops if you connect a device, light bulb or anything like that?
Sus_i said:
: Any voltage drops if you connect a device, light bulb or anything like that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Sus_i.
How to connect the light bulb to test, and connect from where to where?
I couldn't believe what a stupid move I did by pulling the internet cable and now I want to beat myself so bad...
I've a few power adapters from router/modem etc lying around, will I damage the Fire TV if I'm to try them out?
Matt_7 said:
Thanks Sus_i.
How to connect the light bulb to test, and connect from where to where?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried to pull all plugs, reconnect only the power supply... what does the LED?
There is an ifixit guide on how to disassemble the fireTV. In case you open the box, measure the voltage IN inside the fireTV at power on. You can measure VDD 3.3v and VDDQ 1.8v too, next to the emmc, see the picture here.
Matt_7 said:
I couldn't believe what a stupid move I did by pulling the internet cable and now I want to beat myself so bad...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That shouldn'd harm anything. In case of a failure, the fireTv should blink yellow.
Matt_7 said:
I've a few power adapters from router/modem etc lying around, will I damage the Fire TV if I'm to try them out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can test other adapters, someone on this forum said that he used an 5v usb supply, but for a 'stable use' you need a big one... regards the amps...
I think a power supply between 7v to 5v works fine, probably no damages at all.
Sus_i said:
Have you tried to pull all plugs, reconnect only the power supply... what does the LED?
There is an ifixit guide on how to disassemble the fireTV. In case you open the box, measure the voltage IN inside the fireTV at power on. You can measure VDD 3.3v and VDDQ 1.8v too, next to the emmc, see the picture here.
That shouldn'd harm anything. In case of a failure, the fireTv should blink yellow.
You can test other adapters, someone on this forum said that he used an 5v usb supply, but for a 'stable use' you need a big one... regards the amps...
I think a power supply between 7v to 5v works fine, probably no damages at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will try to open up the FireTV.
No light/LED when plugging only the power adapter to the FIreTV, already tried different power outlets throughout the house
Come to the worst, will this https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66961740&postcount=676 help?
Thanks again.
Matt_7 said:
Come to the worst, will this https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66961740&postcount=676 help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Don't follow this guide, you lose your unlock... apart from that, the download link from the guide is dead
Sus_i said:
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Don't follow this guide, you lose your unlock... apart from that, the download link from the guide is dead
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, will forget about that!
Once I got the FireTV opened, will take some pixs and report back!
OK, here are the pixs.
Now that I look at the Multimeter, I'm not sure I'm using it correctly. Bought this few years ago (just in case I need to test my car's battery).
AT the bottom of the multimeter, there are 3 holes, one red on each side and black hole in the center, which two am I supposed to use?
I tested the power adapter again with multimeter using the center black and red on the right, and I'm reading 4.2V?
Sus_i said:
Worst case is a broken fireTV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would it be possible just by looking at the board if its kaput?
I accidentally drowned my phone. It powers up to the point I need to give my password to unlock it. Unfortunately the touch screen is dead. I have ADB installed to my laptop but I don't know how to get access to my files. Any help is so welcome right now, I don't even have a replacement phone.
iPap said:
I accidentally drowned my phone. It powers up to the point I need to give my password to unlock it. Unfortunately the touch screen is dead. I have ADB installed to my laptop but I don't know how to get access to my files. Any help is so welcome right now, I don't even have a replacement phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try using your phone with computer mouse and OTG cable.
Xokoz said:
You could try using your phone with computer mouse and OTG cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, is there a software I have to use?
iPap said:
Hmm, is there a software I have to use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your screen works but it doesn't recognize touch, right? If so, you can just enable MTP on your phone with mouse and then connect it to your laptop and access the files from there.
And no, I don't think any mouse require software to work if used with OTG cable.
E: https://www.androidcentral.com/10-basic-terminal-commands-you-should-know
You can try adb push/pull method though. Haven't done it myself so I can't be much help with that.
Xokoz said:
Your screen works but it doesn't recognize touch, right? If so, you can just enable MTP on your phone with mouse and then connect it to your laptop and access the files from there.
And no, I don't think any mouse require software to work if used with OTG cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it used to work, not right now. It vibrates sometimes when I press the power button, so it's not 100% dead yet. So as soon as I connect it via OTG I will have the option to access it? Interesting...
iPap said:
Well it used to work, not right now. It vibrates sometimes when I press the power button, so it's not 100% dead yet. So as soon as I connect it via OTG I will have the option to access it? Interesting...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your phone boots up and you can see your screen working normally except for the touch part, then yes. But if you don't have OTG cable or mouse now and you have to order them, you might want to try those adb commands in link I edited to my previous comment.
Xokoz said:
If your phone boots up and you can see your screen working normally except for the touch part, then yes. But if you don't have OTG cable or mouse now and you have to order them, you might want to try those adb commands in link I edited to my previous comment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try to use the ADB as I don't have an OTG cable. I'll try it now, thank you.
Edit: It won't communicate with the device with 'adb devices'. I guess I'm in trouble...
iPap said:
I'll try to use the ADB as I don't have an OTG cable. I'll try it now, thank you.
Edit: It won't communicate with the device with 'adb devices'. I guess I'm in trouble...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you installed TWRP?
Xokoz said:
Have you installed TWRP?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I try to boot into TWRP but no chance. I think it's dying.
iPap said:
Yes, I try to boot into TWRP but no chance. I think it's dying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, that is actually a bad sign. I was wondering if you had your phone decrypted by any chance so you could've just booted into TWRP and copied internal storage to your laptop from there.
Xokoz said:
Oh, that is actually a bad sign. I was wondering if you had your phone decrypted by any chance so you could've just booted into TWRP and copied internal storage to your laptop from there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll just let it dry in rice for a couple of days and will try several stuff again. Ill get back as soon as I have news. Thanks mate.
I do not know how high your geek-level is, but I would recommend booting twrp, decrypt the data partiton with adb and pull the complete data partition to the PC:
1. Get a bootable twrp e.g. fastboot boot twrp-XX.img
2. adb shell twrp decrypt <Password>
3. adb pull /dev/block/dm-0 ./decrypted-data.img
(Credits go to stackoverflow)
If this does not work I would attach an USB Hub after booting into twrp and attach a mouse and a storage device to the hub. (And a keyboard)
So instead of spamming the forums, I thought I would just make on consolidated post asking for help
Background: I have suffered from a visual disability for over 20 years. There are many facets to it but the one that is relevant here is that some displays trigger instant eye strain and migraines when I view them. I have been to over 27 specialists in 7 states over 2 decades and no one has been able to find out exactly what us causing it. All we know is the issue isn't really caused by the display, but what is driving the display, and seem to be related to colors somehow.
Anyway, I ordered a 4k Fire Stick on July 15, 2019. SO looking at https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...is-prerooted-stock-images-6-2-8-0_r1.3983091/, it looks like my Fire Stick came with OS 6.2.6.5_r1. I do not recall it ever asking for updates before this, so I do not know if it ever updated to 6.2.7.7_r1 (which is the last update prior to the UI update). I would like to flash OS 6.2.6.5_r1 which is the closest ROM I can find to what was on the stick when I first bought it and it worked.
I also have an unopened 4k Fire Stick I purchased on Nov 29, 2019. This is still sitting new in the box and have never been opened or plugged into anything.
So here is where my questions start
General Questions
1. Are the sticks I ordered the "mantis" one? So I would look for "mantis" instructions for working with it? Can someone provide a stock Mantis 6.2.6.5 ROM, I really don't care too much about being rooted honestly.
Questions for upgraded stick (that I cannot use right now due to disability)
1. Is there any hope for this device? As I understand it there is an eFuse blown during the 6.8 upgrade preventing downgrades.
2. Is there any work going on that will allow that blown eFuse to be bypassed (like a modified 6.2.6.x ROM that doesn't check the eFuse status)?
Questions for unopened stick
1. Is there any way to block the updates while setting up the device (prevent auto update)?
- 1a: I know there is a "BlockUpdate.apk" that can be sideloaded and run, but to do that I would need to have the device up and running to enable ADB Debugging and connect to the device, so I would have had to go though the initial setup, which will update the device, making it to late to install the APK and block the update
- 1b: I know you can also install Remote ADB Shell on the stick and use the PM disable user commands to block OTA updates, but again, you can't get to the point where you can turn on ADB Debugging and install those apps before going though the initial setup, which will update the device, making it to late to block the updates
2. I saw there were some methods where people were using their routers to block access to certain Amazon and/or akamai servers so you could activate the stick but the update check would fail, but all those guides seem to be for Fire TV's, not Fire Sticks, and are all from 2016-ish. Do these still work?
Questions for Rooting device
1. I saw the aluminum foil trick, but all the guides I see seem to start after a point where the device has been activated, which would have forced the update and would be to late for me. Can you root BEFORE the device is activated?
2. How do you connect a Fire Stick to a PC to allow the Linux scripts to see it and root it? I can't connect to the TV and then to my wifi, cause once it connects to wifi, it auto updates, and we're stuck again.
So can anyone help me out? My end goal is to have my upgraded Fire Stick downgraded to the 6.2.6.5 version and will NEVER install a system update, and/or have my unopened FireStick activated and working and NEVER install an update. I don't really care about any enhanced "debloating" or anything after that.
Many thanks up front.
Yes, you can try the unlock infront of the setup, that is the way to go.
But I would test your ruined stick first, it doesn't harm anything... maybe big A. messed the efuse burning up, who knows. Short the stick and in case you can't see 'phone' mode in lsusb, the efuse is burned as expected.
Sus_i said:
Yes, you can try the unlock infront of the setup, that is the way to go.
But I would test your ruined stick first, it doesn't harm anything... maybe big A. messed the efuse burning up, who knows. Short the stick and in case you can't see 'phone' mode in lsusb, the efuse is burned as expected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, how would I unlock the device and block the updates without having to go through through Fire Stick setup (which would force the update)
As I understand it, I could
1 - Boot up the modified Linux iso in a VM
2 - Open the Fire Stick and use the aluminum foil to short it
At that point, how do I connect the Fire Stick to my PC? If I plug it into my TV and connect it to my network, it's going to auto update.
Once the above quesiton is answered, I could then run the scripts and get root and get twrp via the scripts in the Linux iso. But at that point, what would I flash in TWRP to block the OTA updates? I would not be anle to get to any point that allows me to enable ADB debugging without going through the Fire Stick setup, which would force the OTA updates
The thing is really easy.
Older 4k sticks are vulnerable to the current kamakiri exploit, and newer sticks are not.
Amaz. fixed with 6.2.8.0 the bootrom feature used in kamakiri, so any kamakiri vulnerable stick gets fixed with that update... Only way to prevent this fix, is to unlock it first, then the OTA updates can't harm anything.
The unlock protects them. In this case the update is fine...
If you want to try the unlock, you need to follow the kamakiri OP.
You don't need a TV or a network connection for your stick.
You need the usb cable and some tinfoil.
No one knows if your stick is vulnerable or not.
You may check this in a terminal with the lsusb command, while shorted (see the unlock OP for details).
If you can keep the stick with the short in 'phone' mode (look in lsusb a few times instead of running the bootrom-step), you're lucky and the unlock may work.
Sus_i said:
The thing is really easy.
Older 4k sticks are vulnerable to the current kamakiri exploit, and newer sticks are not.
Amaz. fixed with 6.2.8.0 the bootrom feature used in kamakiri, so any kamakiri vulnerable stick gets fixed with that update... Only way to prevent this fix, is to unlock it first, then the OTA updates can't harm anything.
The unlock protects them. In this case the update is fine...
If you want to try the unlock, you need to follow the kamakiri OP.
You don't need a TV or a network connection for your stick.
You need the usb cable and some tinfoil.
No one knows if your stick is vulnerable or not.
You may check this in a terminal with the lsusb command, while shorted (see the unlock OP for details).
If you can keep the stick with the short in 'phone' mode (look in lsusb a few times instead of running the bootrom-step), you're lucky and the unlock may work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought even if you were unlocked, once you were auto updated, the eFuse is blown and you can't downgrade?
FOr the old Fire Stick (that has never been upgraded so it should be fine) once I unlock the device and flash TWRP, what would I flash to prevent the OTA update from taking place during the setup of the device?
emkorial said:
I thought even if you were unlocked, once you were auto updated, the eFuse is blown and you can't downgrade?
FOr the old Fire Stick (that has never been upgraded so it should be fine) once I unlock the device and flash TWRP, what would I flash to prevent the OTA update from taking place during the setup of the device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, unlocked = safe.
There isn't a reason to mess with the initial update, as long as you've done the unlock successfully and TWRP is in place. Then you can downgrade anytime later to whatever OS version, if you like.
After you did the unlock, flash magisk, do the initial setup, enable adb, you can use adb shell commands to disable the OTA updates.
You don't need a TV or a network connection for your stick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do I interact with TWRP if it isn't plugged into the TV?? What do you see the TWRP screen on to navigate it??
See post two and three in the unlock thread...
Most people use always TWRP commandline via ADB.
Sus_i said:
See post two and three in the unlock thread...
Most people use always TWRP commandline via ADB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I am still very confused. If I have the Fire Stick only connected to my computer via USB cabl, there will be no Fire Stick display anywhere. So I will be unable to interact with TWRP. But step 1 of post 2 says I can use an OTG mouse to interact with TWRP. How can you use a mouse when the Stick isn't plugged in to a TV?? How do you even boot into TWRP when the stick isn't plugged in?
The second point says use a command line and use ADB, but I thought you need to have ADB permissions set on the device to allow that to work, and you can't get to those ADB permissions without activating the device, which will update it, which defeats the whole purpose
I really appreciate the help but I am totally confused. This is so very frustrating.
You can plug the hdmi into your TV, but that wont help you to interact, because you use TWRP commands via adb. Ofc you see the commands and the TWRP txt output in the terminal window...
If the unlock is done, you can unplug the usb and use OTG + mouse, if you like. Should work too, but you need an usb hub and a storage stick too, if you like to install a ROM or Magisk or whatever. TWRP commandline is easier, you can push files via adb and then just run a adb shell twrp install command...
If TWRP is up, adb is always enabled...
Only the fireOS wants a permission, if you want to use adb.
Sus_i said:
You can plug the hdmi into your TV, but that wont help you to interact, because you use TWRP commands via adb. Ofc you see the commands and the TWRP txt output in the terminal window...
If TWRP is up, adb is always enabled...
Only the fireOS wants a permission, if you want to use adb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, that is helpful, so you are saying if I unlock the device, flash TWRP, and reboot into recovery, ADB will be enabled, there is no need to allow ADB Debugging and I can run those pm uninstall commands?
SO are you saying this is the process?
1 - Download linux iso and script to unlock
2 - boot linux iso
3 - plug Fire Stick into PC with supplied USB cable only. Do not plug the HDMI into anything
4 - run the script and do the tinfoil thing
5 - After the script is done type "./fastboot-step.sh" which will reboot the device into TWRP. I will have no idea if this is working because there is no display for me to look at, correct?
6 - I would I guess wait a few minutes for the device to reboot since I would have no display available I would have no idea when it is done rebooting, but at some point I would type "adb devices" and my device would appear in the list?
If that is all correct, then I know I can type "adb shell" at that point to get to a shell window where I can send adb commands. Could I then execute the pm disable commands? Or do I NEED to flash a new rooted ROM before I do that? I honestly don't care at all about being rooted, I just want to disable OTA
7 - And then after that, OTA would be disabled, I can unplug the Stick from my PC, plug it into my TV for the first time, and it would let me register and not auto update during the registration process and never bug me for updates again?
Also I have seen many different variants of the actual pm disable commands required to disable OTA, can you provide the actual correct ones?
Thanks again
emkorial said:
OK, that is helpful, so you are saying if I unlock the device, flash TWRP, and reboot into recovery, ADB will be enabled, there is no need to allow ADB Debugging and I can run those pm uninstall commands?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, never said something like that
You cannot run pm uninstall commands in TWRP adb...
but you can run adb push/pull, adb shell, twrp install and all the other TWRP commands, in order to 'interact' with TWRP.
Maybe do some research, read a bit more about it. There are also some youtube guides out there.
emkorial said:
3 - plug Fire Stick into PC with supplied USB cable only. Do not plug the HDMI into anything
4 - run the script and do the tinfoil thing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't matter if hdmi is in or out.
But you need to follow the unlocks OP.
You need to short the stick infront any usb connection...
i.e. run the script, keep the short, then connect usb and so on.
Take your time, follow the OP
Maybe @Bertonumber1 answers some of your other questions, I've got no time to continue for now... sry.
Sus_i said:
No, never said something like that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats exactly what you said. You said "If TWRP is up, adb is always enabled..." So which is it, will I be able to run adb shell and then run the pm commands once it boots into twrp or not?
Sus_i said:
You cannot run pm uninstall commands in TWRP adb...
but you can run adb push/pull, adb shell, twrp install and all the other TWRP commands, in order to 'interact' with TWRP.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you are saying I cannot run adb commands from TWRP, but you say I can run adb shell from twrp, which I can then run adb commands from. Which is it?
Sus_i said:
Maybe do some research, read a bit more about it. There are also some youtube guides out there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read everything there is on the topic and it's very poorly documented from a step by step perspective. Can you answer the questions where you gave two opposite answers?
And the other questions no one has answers:
1 - Do I need to flash a rooted ROM before running the pm uninstall commands?
2 - Do I need Magisk installed? If so how do I install it?
I've been a remember of xda dev for years and years over many devices and I will never, ever understand how no one on this site ever seems capable of just giving simple step by step instructions and answering simple direct questions with simple direct answers.
At this point I am more confused than when I started so I feel it is still to risky to try this
Sus_i said:
It doesn't matter if hdmi is in or out.
But you need to follow the unlocks OP.
You need to short the stick infront any usb connection...
i.e. run the script, keep the short, then connect usb and so on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get that the HDMI does not need to be hooked up. Can you answer my quesiotn about how to know when the device is rebooted if I have no display? So I just keep checking adb devices until it shows up?
Sus_i said:
Take your time, follow the OP
Maybe @Bertonumber1 answers some of your other questions, I've got no time to continue for now... sry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you just answer this, once I unlock, and reboot, if I wait and then my device shows up in adb devices, can I then run adb shell and run the pm uninstall commands?
emkorial said:
Thats exactly what you said. You said "If TWRP is up, adb is always enabled..." So which is it, will I be able to run adb shell and then run the pm commands once it boots into twrp or not?
So you are saying I cannot run adb commands from TWRP, but you say I can run adb shell from twrp, which I can then run adb commands from. Which is it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol. Its just like I said yesterday:
You can run adb push/pull, adb shell, twrp install and all the other commands, in order to 'interact' with TWRP.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You see, it isn't TWRP that searchs for updates
It is the fireOS that wants to keep the stick up-to-date.
If you want to disable this OTA update process inside the fireOS, you need to run the pm disable commands while fireOS is up and running.
Then I said yesterday:
It doesn't matter if hdmi is in or out.
But you need to short the stick infront any usb connection...
i.e. run the script, keep the short, then connect usb and so on.
Take your time, follow the OP
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
About four hours later, you ask the same question, in the same wrong order!??:
emkorial said:
I do not want to flash another firmware. I don't care about being rooted at all. I'm never going to install any silly add-on's or pointless extras. I have one goal and one goal only: Keep the OS version on the stick now and prevent it from ever updating.
Here is the process I have put together from scouring about 20 different threads and a half dozen conversations.
1 - Download the linux iso and the script to unlock the Fire Stick
2 - boot a PC with the linux iso
3 - plug Fire Stick into PC with supplied USB cable only. Do not plug the HDMI into anything
4 - Run the script and do the tinfoil thing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At this point It doesn't make sense, just to write it again and again, if you can't get the point.
emkorial said:
I've been a remember of xda dev for years and years over many devices and I will never, ever understand how no one on this site ever seems capable of just giving simple step by step instructions and answering simple direct questions with simple direct answers.
At this point I am more confused than when I started so I feel it is still to risky to try this
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sorry to hear that.
I've just realized that I can't help you at all, so I'm going to stop answering.
Wish you good luck. Have fun.
Sus_i said:
If you want to disable this OTA update process inside the fireOS, you need to run the pm disable commands while fireOS is up and running.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, that makes sense. But since Fire OS is up and running and sitting at the setup screen, USB Debugging has never been turned on. So how do you connect to the Fire Stick via ADB since you cant get to developer options?
UNLESS, does the pre rooted image you flash after unlocking have USB Debugging enabled by DEFAULT, so you DON'T have to turn it on via Settings? THAT would make this ALL make sense. Is that the case?
If so, then it would be
1 - Download iso and script
2 - boot iso and do foil trick and run script
3 - flash a rooted ROM (that will have USB Debugging enabled by default)
4 - boot Fire Stick and just sit at initial screen, don't go though setup
5 - Connect via ADB (which will work since USB Debugging is turned on by default)
6 - Run pm commands
7 - Continue with setup and OTA will be blocked
Is that correct?
Edit: I suppose I can just keep trying at each step until it works. Like this
Step 1 - Take the stick out of the box, plug it into the TV, get to the welcome screen, do not connect to wifi or set up the device (so no OTA updates will occur), connect the USB cable to my PC, and see if I can run the ADB Commands. If that doesn't work...
Step 2 - Unlock the device via the foil trick, plug the stick into the TV, get to the welcome screen, do not connect to wifi or set up the device (so no OTA updates will occur), connect the USB cable to my PC, and see if I can run the ADB Commands. If that doesn't work...
Step 3 - Flash a custom ROM, plug the stick into the TV, get to the welcome screen, do not connect to wifi or set up the device (so no OTA updates will occur), connect the USB cable to my PC, and see if I can run the ADB Commands. That should work as that mirrors the process in the guide.