Develop Bugs

MHL to HDMI problems

Hi, I have an official MHL to HDMI adapter, a high quality HDMI cable, using an official charger to power the adapter, all plugged in to my Samsung 40" 1080p tv. I'm running Hypernote 0.2.5.
The problem is that it keeps losing signal and therefore cutting out the display. I at first thought it may be the charger cable, despite it being the original it is very loose inside and so I tried another (a nokia one) which although fits perfectly inside the adapter to power it, i am still experiencing cut outs. My phone network signal is low too, it's low in my house anyway but is lower when plugged in to the adapter. Also although my wife does work it seems to be affected too when connected to the adapter.
I've read that disabling data and 3G may help, but I've not seen any improvement. This is really annoying asbim using all official Samsung products and a high quality HDMI cable to avoid problems and unfortunately have ran into problems!
What I may try is perhaps a different kernel, as it doesn't seem to be a hardware problem.
Any suggestions?

tried unplugging the charger?
even if the adapter needed power, it should be able to get enough from your tv and phone.

Thanks for the reply. The charger is required. I first thought that the problem lies with the charger given that with the original charging cable, which doesn't stay firmly in the adapter, upon falling out even slightly it would cut the signal out. Nowbthatcicusee a firmly fitting one the problem still persists. I will be flashing the latest Omega rom, perhaps with Hypernote some essential files have been removed causing instability,. I'll also try Omegas kernel, and then try alternatives as perhaps it's a power issue?
Just seems strange that with all official products I'm experiencing problems, so it must be a rom/kernel issue

I have a similar problem on my galaxy s3. I found that it happened when my treadmill was running. do you have anything like that to cause interference?

Nexus 7 2013 (wifi) no battery mod - car install - otg - power problem

Hi there everyone,
I have been trying to get my Nexus 7 2013 installed into my car seamlessly without problems since December 2015. I have Timur's Kernel v4 (6.0.1) running on it, and it was working flawlessly.
However, I decided that the no battery mod needed to be done as I just could not leave that battery inside a hot car - way too risky.
So, I did the Kevdav no battery mod - with success.
However, once the battery connection was receiving 5v via a usb car charger the OTG cable connected to the tablet's mini usb port would not wake/suspend the tablet properly. It would wake it up, but once it was awake the little battery icon at the top would forever show that it was 'charging' and once power was cut to the otg y cable / mini usb, it would not suspend (would still show as charging).
I did research, and bought a Drok DC-DC step down converter. I lowered the voltage to the battery mod connection to 3.7v (and tested up to 4.7v) and this alleviated the problem of suspend/wake. I think since the original battery gave out less voltage then the otg/charging connection, this needed to be replicated in order for the otg to work.
However, I now have a new problem that I cannot seem to fix. This problem only seems to happen in the car and does not occur when testing it in the house using normal wall chargers.
For clarity, this is how everything is wired up in the car.
Nexus 7 battery mod side of things:
Nexus 7 battery terminals > 22awg usb cable > drok dc dc step down power supply (this board has a female usb port for output) set at 3.7v (tested up to 4.7v) > input is connected to car's constant 12v connected directly to battery on a fused wire.
Nexus 7 mini usb port side of things:
Nexus 7 mini usb port > usb otg y cable > mini usb cable > 2.4a usb car cig adapter hardwired to car's switched 12v accessory wire.
The link to the drok dc dc step down is this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FDBY66Y/ref=twister_B01GO268W6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I turn on acc ignition to send power to the otg connection. It'll power up. However, if left in standby overnight the tablet won't power up. If I physically press the tablet's power button it'll wake up, show the wake up animation, and react as normal (including any subsequent power downs). However, if I don't press the power button and I turn off the ign again, an icon on my car's instrument cluster will be faintly illuminated - this is odd behaviour and should be completely out. When this is the case, if I get out and try to lock the car the remote central locking doesn't work.
This light will go out if I physically disconnect the otg y cable from the tablet, and low and behold the remote central locking works.
I'm no expert on electronics and such, but it seems to me that power may be flooding back into the OTG connection from the no battery mod power?
Does this make sense? Sorry for the long question, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with troubleshooting or any advice? I've this one problem and then I'm set but I just can't seem to figure anything out and need someone's advice who is in the know rather than take wild stabs in the dark using my own logic because if I do the latter, not only will I waste money on needless components but I'll more than likely break something. I've read stuff about diodes or something in order to regulate power flow but I'm not even sure I'm using the correct terminology here so if anyone can tell me I'm onto something here or I'm talking complete nonsense then anything is appreciated!
I did search these forums and google but I really cannot find anything that is similar to my problem.
Thanks for any input guys, whether it be any tips on what I'm missing or what I need to change (software or hardware, electrical, etc) - it's all very much appreciated.
Antony
Edit: so sorry I think I posted this is the wrong n7 2013 sub section. I can't delete the post but if a mod could please kindly move it to the relevant forum I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

antc101 said:
it seems to me that power may be flooding back into the OTG connection from the no battery mod power?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, indeed, and your "2.4a usb car cig adapter hardwired to car's switched 12v accessory wire" requires a small mod to prevent the power feedback. It needs an extra 1A+ diode connected directly to 12V input. You could modify the adapter's PCB or simply replace the fuse's internal wire with a diode where its cathode goes to the spring and its anode to 12V input. Or just place the diode somewhere along the adapter's hardwire. $0.16 1N4001 is good enough ([email protected] is OK for [email protected]).

Not sure if thread is still active but I also have the same symptom with tablet turning off completely overnight. I am running constant 12v to 3.7v dc to dc on battery input and car adapter 12v to 5v on microusb cable in. Tablet will work fine with on and off but after car is shutdown for the night it will not turn on in the morning. It shows me battery charge icon only. I dont have diode installed either. Not sure if thats the cause. Anyone know why it would completly shutdown overnight?

Neo2020Marz said:
Not sure if thread is still active but I also have the same symptom with tablet turning off completely overnight. I am running constant 12v to 3.7v dc to dc on battery input and car adapter 12v to 5v on microusb cable in. Tablet will work fine with on and off but after car is shutdown for the night it will not turn on in the morning. It shows me battery charge icon only. I dont have diode installed either. Not sure if thats the cause. Anyone know why it would completly shutdown overnight?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there,
Been a while since I posted on this thread but just wanted to update on what I have done so far.
Since my last post, I don't have any issues. I placed a diode as mentioned above on the +12v for the accessory power. This seemed to have fixed any back flow of power.
Concerning the power off over night, I'm pretty sure this was something to do with Timur's kernel. I forever had issues with that thing - eg, suspect and wake issues, accessories connected to my usb hub..
I switched to a stock version of android 6.0.1 - MOB30X if memory serves... and installed Elemental X version 5.16. No issues with this setup what so ever.

Huh.
I run my Nexus 7 on my car with the battery, mounted just above the dashboard, with direct sunlight exposition and no UV film on the windshield. It's been a whole year without issues, thank God.
https://i.imgur.com/cPNhDDc.jpg
I live in the Northeast of Brazil, where's 30C to 40C through the year. Sometimes I come up to the car and the tablet shut off due to the heat.
Battery still lasts wonders and there's no signs of damage.. yet.
Is it really adamant to remove the battery, or is it just a precautionary measure?

GTMoraes said:
Huh.
I run my Nexus 7 on my car with the battery, mounted just above the dashboard, with direct sunlight exposition and no UV film on the windshield. It's been a whole year without issues, thank God.
https://i.imgur.com/cPNhDDc.jpg
I live in the Northeast of Brazil, where's 30C to 40C through the year. Sometimes I come up to the car and the tablet shut off due to the heat.
Battery still lasts wonders and there's no signs of damage.. yet.
Is it really adamant to remove the battery, or is it just a precautionary measure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You better have more luck.
My nexus was put under the dash and was fine for around 3 years. And it became expanded in just 2 days, separating the screen and the case. So I have urgently remove the battery.

Touch screen issues while charging affecting all ZUK Z2's?

I was about to buy this phone, but then i saw this: https://youtu.be/l-MmWqNrCH4?t=195
Can anyone confirm there are touch screen issues when the AC charger is connected?
This seems to be pretty big hardware issue and i wonder if it does affect all Zuk Z2's...
Can anyone test this please?
Multitouch test app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.the511plus.MultiTouchTester&hl=en

Depends on the charger and socket output.
Like when I'm using it with qc3 charger plugged into 220v output socket, there is no such issue, but when plugged into 110v (tried on train's socket), you can see that problem.
This problem is basically with every phone.

Indian Lenovo Z2 Plus here on Stock Nougat
No issues here (stock charger on 220V AC)

Oh well, maybe i have to reconsider it then

Anybody using the device had this issue(Ghost touch)?

k3lcior said:
I was about to buy this phone, but then i saw this: https://youtu.be/l-MmWqNrCH4?t=195
Can anyone confirm there are touch screen issues when the AC charger is connected?
This seems to be pretty big hardware issue and i wonder if it does affect all Zuk Z2's...
Can anyone test this please?
Multitouch test app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.the511plus.MultiTouchTester&hl=en
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is common for all Zuk Z2 devices.
Its a issue with the charger & not with the device as such. Try using any other good quality charger, this will not happen or if you want to be sure try charging with powerbank you won't face the ghost touch.

try different socket in different location. sometimes ground wire has problem in home which leads to this problem.

I recently bought the phone, and yes, I have experienced the issue quite a few times. But, only a few times. Most of the time, device touchpad works normally while charging. I think thr problem is with the old sockets. I use Stock provided charger. I have heard that it's common in many phones, so I'm ready to ignore it. Because anyways phone should not be used while charging.

With reference to my previous message, I noticed now that the device shows ghost touches while charging, only when device is charging at max speed and is quite hot. While charging, when the phone was between 50%-80%, it had become quite hot (Not too much though), and it gave me ghost touches quite a few times. I think device charges at it's max during these percentage. But when the phone crossed 85%, the device started getting a bit cooler, and I didn't experience the ghost touches at all.

Issue solved
Hi buddy I had the same issue .one day while I connect my z2 with laptop I see that its charging but no touch issue then I realised it need low power charger than that given charger .After that I use my tablet's 5v 1amp .It works nice and it take 2 and half hrs to fully charge .After that I did not face any touch issue.Thats why they does not provide fast charger.I brought my z2 6/08/2017 from flipkart

is this problem with charger, i belive! i swap charger and job god now!

juniofdm said:
is this problem with charger, i belive! i swap charger and job god now!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which charger u using now ?
Is it a normal one or fast one ?
Sent from my ZUK Z2132 using Tapatalk

This is not a phone issue. Lenovo is selling **** quality chargers and cables. If you happen to know (https://www.amazon.com/gp/profile/amzn1.account.AFLICGQRF6BRJGH2RRD4VGMB47ZA) this guy then see his recommendations and buy a good charger or you might even fry your device. This is very dangerous. Shame on Lenovo.

developer01 said:
Which charger u using now ?
Is it a normal one or fast one ?
Sent from my ZUK Z2132 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using motorola original fast charger of cellphone of my wife.

I'm also facing this problem. I have divorced parents, the charger that came in the box was a US adapter that I couldn't use. My brother used to have a ZUK z1 and I use his stock charger Together with the original Z2 charger. That one works well. I bought a Blitzwolf USB type C cable, a Tiegem QC3.0 cable and a wish.com charger with great reviews supporting Qualcomm QC3.0, but I recently discovered that zuk z2 uses a different type of fast charging. On the blitzwolf and Tiegem cable i have ghost touches and the phone gets very laggy, does anyone have recommendations? thanks in advance

How will an iPhone charger work.

My proposed solution
I bought this mobile few days back and since then I also have realised about this issue. This isn't ghost touch but the touchscreen becomes ultra reactive with higher input.
I used several apps and found another thing that if any charger inputs anything more than 1.4 amps, the mobile's screen becomes ultra reactive. But if the charger inputs upto 1.3 amps, it is ok. I keep using a charger that gives max output of upto 1.3 amps and I can even play games easily without any issue.
To measure the amps, I use app from play store which is free called Ampere. I am nowhere related to this app, you are most welcome to try this method out.
Regards,
NK

Viper os

Galaxy Tab S 10.5 will not turn on

Hi,
Have searched this forum and other sources on the web. Can't resolve my issue. Hope I can get some help.
Running the most recent stock update. This is a Wi-Fi model only.
I will explain what happened.
Had the tablet plugged into outlet.
Had the Chrome browser open, was logged into a NHRA drag racing website and watching live racing.
Was Chromecasting to my 55" Sony tv.
The tablet was in this configuration for about 4 hours, the screen went black and lost Chromecast connection to tv.
Could not see if the battery was running low, as the tablet was at full screen.
Left the tablet charging in a different outlet. And with different cables.
Have tried all the Power, Volume and Home button combinations.
Have had the back cover off. Disconnected the various battery cables. Took the battery completely out.
No response from the tablet. No vibrations or flashes.
Am I missing any other solutions.
Thanks in advance.

does it attempt to charge?

NJ_RAMS_FAN said:
does it attempt to charge?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. The charger gets warm. Took back off, and checked with multimeter. 4.09 volts and 3.44 amps.
Going to order a replacement battery. Though I don't think the battery is bad. I think something has to be reset on the Tab S.
Thanks.

Don’t fix problem by guessing. Search eBay for USB voltage tester, it will display the voltage and charging current. You can verify the problem from usb cable, charger, USB port , battery connectors or main board .
The most common mistake is assuming the battery is bad without checking other parts feed the current to battery.
If your tablets works, the charging current should be around 1.5 to 1.7 Amps, more or less depending the battery status, less than 1.5 amps when it’s nearly full.

Beut said:
Don’t fix problem by guessing. Search eBay for USB voltage tester, it will display the voltage and charging current. You can verify the problem from usb cable, charger, USB port , battery connectors or main board .
The most common mistake is assuming the battery is bad without checking other parts feed the current to battery.
If your tablets works, the charging current should be around 1.5 to 1.7 Amps, more or less depending the battery status, less than 1.5 amps when it’s nearly full.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charger output is 5.28 volts and 2.30 amps.
The main board is 3.65 volts and 3.31 amps when connected to battery.
The battery is 3.66 volts and 3.48 amps when disconnected from main board.

Robls said:
The charger output is 5.28 volts and 2.30 amps.
The main board is 3.65 volts and 3.31 amps when connected to battery.
The battery is 3.66 volts and 3.48 amps when disconnected from main board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These measurements won't give you any glue what is wrong along the charging circuit which involves many parts.
Use the USB voltage amperage tester when charging, it will tell you how much charging current is drawing.
If it's less than 1.5 Amps, then using elimination method to find where is the defective part. You must have known working parts for testing.
Start from USB cable, charger, USB charging port, then battery connectors: this one requires technical experiences to see what is wrong. Most average users don't see the cracked solder joints on battery connector which requires microscope. With the naked eyes most won't see anything wrong because the crack in underneath of solder joints
From my experiences, changing the USB port won't see any differences, then problem is mostly from battery connectors. The one from mainboard needs to be resoldered, the one from battery needs to fix the cable clips. I have been fixed hundreds of them, so this is not an opinion.
You need to read from here to understand Samsung tablet's problem
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=63133996&postcount=131

Charge phone while data transfer for octo4a, dummy battery.

Hi, i've been researching A LOT about ACA charging + maintaining the OTG connection. The idea here is to get the phone connected to a 3D printer while charging, so the printer won't stop if the pone runs out of battery.
I've tested a USB C hub with HDMI and a y splitter cable capable of PD (both working great with a mi 10t lite) but as soon as i plug in the charger cable the printer gets disconnected...
I've found old threads claiming that your phone has to be able to hand that ACA connection, so i've been looking at the oficial released kernel and trying some different kernels and roms without any progress at all... Since it's a USB C idk if something like this it's posible
[KERNEL] Power over OTG host mod.
[From my README] A mod for the Oneplus One DWC3 otg module. This allows for charging and host mode simultaneously, inspired by Ziddey's msm_otg mod for the Nexus 4/7 (2013). Functionality was ported over from his kernel hack to the DWC3 USB...
forum.xda-developers.com
Btw i've installed a cheap charging pcb from Ali since the original board stopped charging, idk if this could be the issue and It should work just fine. I'd be glad if any of you can test a working mi a1 with some charging + USB dongle...
Also since it'll be an stationary unit i've been thinking of making a dummy battery tearing apart the original battery and connecting it's PCB to a constant 4.2v power supply, but I guess that a constant voltage will make the phone think it's loosing battery until It power's down itself. I've read that you can change the startup kernel's battery guessing direct read of the voltage to a kind of percentage and this should get a constant % of battery with the constant voltage, but I don't really know if It's even posible.
So what do you think It's the best possible way to go now? I think long term would be the dummy battery. Desoldering the battery PCB and getting a 4.2v 2a charging unit or stepper down connected to It seems solid since the battery PCB Will protect the phone against spikes and I can case all that in a 3d printed battery shell, but i'm afraid of not getting the kernel to read It properly.
Also no, a raspi is too expensive nowadays and I'm trying to keep this project idea as cheap as possible.