Hi,
Really strange one and hoping someone can help.
I have the 10.1 Exynos, and I lose ~20% battery per day when I leave the tablet alone, even when it is switched off.
What I have tried,
1. Replacing the battery - same symptoms with a brand new battery
2. Replacing the Micro USB charging port - same symptoms with both batteries
I did a further experiment with both batteries, old and new,
1. Charge to 100%
2. Leave disconnect battery cable and leave the device for 48 hours
3. When I plug the cable back in, I have 99% charge on both batteries.
4. When I leave the device idle with the battery cable plugged in, again I lose about 20% per day when the tablet is off.
I'm really confused right now, and would like to resolve this issue so I can hand over the old tablet to a relative, as it is still a very capable device.
hello
switching off does'nt disconnet battery
some programs go on ( time, date, ..) with pseudo capacitive battery
a resistive element is still connected (a component is deffective)
regards
Understand, but 20% is a lot of battery use for an idle tablet.
Do you think there is any hope of fixing this?
Could it be something that can be re-soldered perhaps?
Are you rooted? Try Better Battery Stats. It can show what is running while it's supposed to be idle. Also, try Greenify.
Cheers,
Rich
Zico 10 said:
Understand, but 20% is a lot of battery use for an idle tablet.
Do you think there is any hope of fixing this?
Could it be something that can be re-soldered perhaps?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am rooted, and no app shows up in battery stats BECAUSE THE TABLET IS DRAINING BATTERY WHILST IT IS SWITCHED OFF.
Please read the thread before you comment next time.
@Beut
Do you have any ideas??
Zico 10 said:
@Beut
Do you have any ideas??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try to resolder the battery connector
Beut said:
Try to resolder the battery connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have any tips or guides on how to do this?
Would applying conductive wire glue work?
You can try but it doesn't make strong bond. The epoxy conductive glue may work if you don't know how to solder.
However, the silver conductive wire glue, sold in Amazon around $3/ 0.2 ml syringe works very well to fix the loose battery cables which causing intermittent power, restart, battery quick discharge ( actually not quick discharge: loose battery cables will cause the tablet read battery capacity incorrectly ).
If your battery drops then movement later it goes up or after restart, 99% you have a cracked battery connector on mainboard or loose battery cables.
This is the case, the cables doesn't make contact : two red cables ( positive ) have no contact, you will see the problem of not charging.
If one positive ( red ) or negative ( black ) cable loose its connection, your battery might drop 40 to 50% instantly.
If they're partly make contact, you might experience a boot loop as the tablet doesn't have enough power to start the system.
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This is the original battery cables before apply the glue
After applied glue, smear the glue to inside of cable as much as possible, clean with alcohol the extra conductive glue between cables , otherwise you will have shorted circuit and you might destroy the mainboard. Later on, you can remove the battery cables easily, that's why this conductive wire glue is not a perfect solution to substitute soldering.
I did fixed a Note 2014 today, it shut down at 28%. Applied the conductive glue to all six cables, reconnected it to battery connector and charger.
You can speed up the healing process by heating it with a hair dryer for a few minutes.
Do you know what I get ? The battery icon shows up with 88%, go up 60% when all cables make a solid contact to all pins of battery connector as the conductive glue fills up
all gaps between cable's terminals and pins.
switched off you mean you select the "Power Off" option?, or switched off meaning you press the power button and screen goes off?,
if the first option then I suspect when you charge your tablet its not "really" charging it trys to feed the battery but at some point it takes no more charge and it will fake the "100% charge value", and on a reboot it reads the stats again and says oh 70% charged, in anycase this could be because you are using a bad cable or a bad USB charger, try using the stock cable and charger if possible, if problems still exist try to reseat the battery by opening the tablet and unplug / replug the batter in.
if the second option then something is causing wakelock
!!!before touching the hardware!!!
Zico 10 said:
Hi,
Really strange one and hoping someone can help.
I have the 10.1 Exynos, and I lose ~20% battery per day when I leave the tablet alone, even when it is switched off.
What I have tried,
1. Replacing the battery - same symptoms with a brand new battery
2. Replacing the Micro USB charging port - same symptoms with both batteries
I did a further experiment with both batteries, old and new,
1. Charge to 100%
2. Leave disconnect battery cable and leave the device for 48 hours
3. When I plug the cable back in, I have 99% charge on both batteries.
4. When I leave the device idle with the battery cable plugged in, again I lose about 20% per day when the tablet is off.
I'm really confused right now, and would like to resolve this issue so I can hand over the old tablet to a relative, as it is still a very capable device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
!!!BEFORE TOUCHING THE HARDWARE!!!
TRY first just update or upgrading OS or maybe better downgrading/ flashing back to stock.
if doesn't work?
Then give a try "re-partitioning" your phone. Try searching for sometimes called "Repair Files"
You may need your "Brain" to do that. Google is "always there to help us" how.
coz I am not responsible for that. just giving my Idea
Goodluck!!! :good:
CarCE12 said:
!!!BEFORE TOUCHING THE HARDWARE!!!
TRY first just update or upgrading OS or maybe better downgrading/ flashing back to stock.
if doesn't work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was the first thing I did, and testing shows that the issue is definitely hardware related instead of software - for example, the battery will drain even when the device is powered off!
I have tried the advice of @Beut as well, however it still drains unfortunately.
I still have the tablet, but unfortunately it is largely useless to me. Though I still can't bring myself to throw it away.
Related
My Note 8 only receives power when plugged in. I have replaced the power port but problem persists. Battery shows 100% but when I remove the power cord it dies. Any help would be appreciated.
Could be bad battery or needs a power reset, open the backside cover and unplug the battery connector and wait 2 minutes, and reconnect.
I did this while installing the new power port. I have ordered a new battery. I'.lol report back with the results. Thanks for your input
fwiw I got this off eBay for $15 so I have some monetary leeway as far as repairs go.
Zweiguys said:
My Note 8 only receives power when plugged in. I have replaced the power port but problem persists. Battery shows 100% but when I remove the power cord it dies. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your tablet only runs when plugged in even when battery is full, possibly the battery connector has some open pins. Re solder the black battery connector may fix it.
Open pins can fool your tablet the battery capacity. For example, disconnect battery cable from battery connector, plugged in and press the HOME button, it will show the green battery icon is charging, then within 30 seconds, it will show the 100% battery icon. When sensor from the mainboard doesn't see any drawing charging current , it will send the signal to charging circuit the battery is full and it should disconnect. This behavior you can test on any Samsung tablet to see if charging port is drawing current to battery connector or it's working.
Any repair shop or anyone knows how to solder can help you, this re solder only takes under 5 minutes and you only need to disconnect battery cable.
Here what it looks like when I fool my tablet by disconnected the battery while charging:
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Best, thanks for that info. I'll do,that test when I open the tablet to install the new battery.
Zweiguys said:
Best, thanks for that info. I'll do,that test when I open the tablet to install the new battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This can be bad battery or open, cracked battery connector. When change new battery, don't put back the rear cover, test if your charging port is working without battery. Then connect the battery, press the HOME button to see the flashing green battery icon. If it's OK, waiting for at least one hour, press the power button to turn on. If it's turn on, you have a bad battery.
If it doesn't turn on with new battery, then the battery connector is the source of problem and need to be re soldered.
This is the battery connector you should look for, I already re soldered this black connector by adding more solders to 6 joints:
Beut, installed new battery today with no change. I did as you suggested and the device did register 100% battery even though one was not present. The area around the battery connector appears to either have corrosion (slight) or maybe a power surge. Just doesn't look right.
I only paid $15 for this and the fact that it runs fine while plugged in I'll probably take it to work and use it to watch the EPL games on Saturdays. Maybe at some point I'll come across a working unit with a bad screen.
Thanks again for your help. Keith
Zweiguys said:
Beut, installed new battery today with no change. I did as you suggested and the device did register 100% battery even though one was not present. The area around the battery connector appears to either have corrosion (slight) or maybe a power surge. Just doesn't look right.
I only paid $15 for this and the fact that it runs fine while plugged in I'll probably take it to work and use it to watch the EPL games on Saturdays. Maybe at some point I'll come across a working unit with a bad screen.
Thanks again for your help. Keith
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you should re solder this battery connector, it takes only few minutes for who knows how to solder.
Any repair shop can assist you with little charge as it's only a 5 minutes work.
Cracked battery connector is very common in Samsung tablets, not just this tablet.
Maybe I'll give that a shot at some point. I guess I can't make it any worse. The connector looks a little odd near the two red wires coming from the battery.
EDIT: Please move this to Q&A and help section.. sorry.
Hello fellow tablet users.
Since the lost 2 weeks my tablet has been acting weird. It jumps alot on the battery levels, one second having 50% then 13% then suddenly 3% then plugging in the charger it has 50%.
I've tried to charge it fully then making a battery calibration but with no luck.. what should I do next? Full reset?
Kind regards,
Ratty
If you have the 8.4" it`s most likely an bad battery connection, due to an bad power connector or the part of the connector that is soldered to the motherboard coming loose, it`s an common problem with the 8.4" with people bending it while in back pockets ect, less of an problem with the 10.5" as you would need an hell of a back pocket.
Samsung knows about this problem, and according to one 8.4" owner replaced the battery connector with an more heavy duty version, some people say to solder the battery wires directly to the motherboard.
It`s quite easy to open the Tab S, lots of video`s on youtube and you just need an plastic pry tool they call an spluger or an guitar pick, I got an spluger on ebay for £1 an replacement battery is £9 an full kit is around $60 for battery and tools if you can do the job yourself.
https://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_...tery_Kit_p/samsung-galaxy-tab-s-8.4smt700.htm
https://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_...attery_Kit_p/samsung-galaxy-tab-s-sm-t800.htm
John.
ratty123 said:
Since the last 2 weeks my tablet has been acting weird. It jumps alot on the battery levels, one second having 50% then 13% then suddenly 3% then plugging in the charger it has 50%.
I've tried to charge it fully then making a battery calibration but with no luck.. what should I do next? Full reset?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reset won't solve a hardware problem, it's very common in Samsung tablets : cracked or loose battery connector : male and female.
This is a close look of female connector:
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If it's not fully contact with male connector's pins, you will have battery fluctuation in capacity. The fix is simple: push the opening closer for all six cables.
This is the male connector , it's re soldered to fix battery quick discharge or capacity fluctuation
I'm having this problem for a long time on my TabS 10.5". I think it's time to discard this device but I'm low of budget to buy a good tablet now, is it secure to open it and bypass battery using direct connection to charging cable from the original USB cable? There are some videos on how to do it, but none of this device.
They are not engineered the same as laptops. They always run off the battery, whether the tablet is plugged in or not. This is a series arrangement. A laptop has power source switcher inside and can run off either; that's a parallel arrangement.
The battery completes the circuit. The charge cord doesn't connect directly to the tablet because the battery is in between. Outlet-->charge cord-->battery-->tablet. You can't just jump over a step.The battery completes the circuit. The charge cord doesn't connect directly to the tablet because the battery is in between. Outlet-->charge cord-->battery-->tablet. You can't just jump over a step.
They are designed on an idea that the user will use it on the go, rather than sitting at a fixed location connected to a charger.
As such, the internal circuitry of a tablet allows the device to work only when the battery is connected to it.
Bypass the battery for direct connection
Hi,
I have a similar connector for the battery on a Samsung Tab GT-P5200.
I want to directly connect the (two) wires from USB power source and bypass the defective battery and the normal mimi USB connector.
Therefore can someone help me out with matching the colours?
Tere is just +-(red/black wires on USB) and the connector from the battery has two red, two bue and two black.
I presume at least two should charge the battery and other two should transport the charge from the battery. And the blue ones maybe for control?
Please give me your though, or maybe suggest other place on the bord co connect directly.
Thank you!
Hi guys, anybody has an idea why is my SM-T320 is changing that slow. It almost cannot reach 100% even if I keep it 13hrs or more on the charger. Reboot doesn't help, maybe if I switch it off is a little bit faster, but not so sure.
Thanks in advance.
Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
Yeah sometime it happens with this device my best advise is don't try force charging it (leaving it plugged in), it will only make it worse and damage / overheat the batt..
Do this instead leave it at the current charge and use the tablet until the battery is down to about 10-15% then reboot the tablet, see if the percent changes as this forces the tablet to re-evaluate the battery, then fully shut down press the power button down for 5 - 10 seconds and choose power off.
plug the tablet into the samsung charger (don't use unofficial chargers/ cables if possible), it should reach 100% now.
some other things I have tried that can help
I have a cable that monitors the amperes and sometimes I notice the tablet doesn't request enough feed from the charger (it starts trickling at like 100mA) usually when its almost nearly charged,
so sometimes if you force keep the screen on with moderate or full brightness, and power saver turned off while charging this causes the charger to send more current and you will notice it will say 100% a lot faster, so that is another thing you can try.
As a last resort you can re-seat the battery but I would only suggest that in extreme cases.
[email protected] , thanks. Last night exactly at midnight i put it on the charger, it was on 50% like. After 7 hours it was 95% . I rebooted it and after 3 minutes it was 100%.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
I was having the same problem, changing the usb cable did the trick...
I tried with my i9505 charger which is the same but again the same issue. Actually for example when reaches 30% it stops you have to reboot the device to continue chargin. Sometimes but not very often it charges normally.
Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
Yeah it's very picky sometimes I wonder if it's temperature related, mine was never as bad as yours but I have seen it stop at around 95% a few times, I have an amper cable and it reads like 100mA - 50mA (in standby, 0mA - 10mA if wifi is off), sometimes unpluging the charger and re-pluging it in gets it going again.
You could try to fully shut the tablet down, and keep it off for 24hours - let everything kindof reset and discharge (like if it was exposed to ESD) , shame samsung didn't include a reset button since that would be like pulling the battery.
You might have the same battery problems many of us have, check the link in my signature on how to fix it.
I had that problem too.
Tried drain the battery end then it would sometimes charge to full but after 1 or 2 charging cycles the problem re-occured again.
Reseating the battery was the solution for me. After i have done that the problem never occured again. ( 8 months ago )
I believe it's somehow related with the smartcase. You guys have smartcases?
Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
osssinator said:
I believe it's somehow related with the smartcase. You guys have smartcases?
Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, dont use any case.
I dont believe it is heat related. The onlu thing i did was disconnect the battery and reconnect. After i have done that it was like i had an new battery.
No problems with charging anymore and a little bit more stamina.
Dont know why, but many of us had this problem and this seems to fix that "bug".
I use an amp cable (shows the current flow), if the reading is less then 1880mA (at 50% or less) then I unplug the charger and cable use the tablet alittle more then re-plug it in - hasn't failed me yet
I think I found a solution :
Leave the device to complete discharge until it switch off by it self. Then put the charger but don't switch it on. Let it charges to 100%. I did that 3 times. Now I successfully charged it to 100% 2 times without switch it of.
The reason why I am looking for that kind of solution is because I have warranty, but Samsung will keep it for like 2-4 weeks.
Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
marbee said:
I dont believe it is heat related. The only thing i did was disconnect the battery and reconnect. After i have done that it was like i had an new battery.
No problems with charging anymore and a little bit more stamina.
Dont know why, but many of us had this problem and this seems to fix that "bug".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually when you have disconnect and connect battery, the battery connector doesn't make good contact with pins of the black battery connector on main board.
The fix is very simple, push the clips of battery cable closer
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How to do it with a thin knife
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PU0OoZSbma8
Galaxy Tab S battery drop/jump/restarting problem
Hi everyone,
I've got a Galaxy Tab S 8.4. The battery sometime drops and screen flashes and it continually restarts. I have had to put the tablet on Power Saving always to avoid restarting. Attached is the charging history graph and it show a slow slope charging and a sudden fluctuation. It seems obvious that I should hange the battery. Am I right? Any comments?
postimg.org/image/uo94oow95
Had the same problem. Either your battery or the battery-to-motherboard connector are faulty. Substituting the battery should do the trick
salimgs said:
Hi everyone,
I've got a Galaxy Tab S 8.4. The battery sometime drops and screen flashes and it continually restarts. I have had to put the tablet on Power Saving always to avoid restarting. Attached is the charging history graph and it show a slow slope charging and a sudden fluctuation. It seems obvious that I should hange the battery. Am I right? Any comments?
postimg.org/image/uo94oow95
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Man, I had the same problem too, and after trying every firmware out there (assuming it was a software problem) y ordered a new battery, and everything works flawless now.
salimgs said:
Hi everyone,
I've got a Galaxy Tab S 8.4. The battery sometime drops and screen flashes and it continually restarts. I have had to put the tablet on Power Saving always to avoid restarting. Attached is the charging history graph and it show a slow slope charging and a sudden fluctuation. It seems obvious that I should hange the battery. Am I right? Any comments?
postimg.org/image/uo94oow95
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fwiw, my nephew had same problems. He did a factory reset and it works normally now. He too expected to have to crack it open and check connections but the reset worked for him. Good luck
TiTiB (tweak it 'til it breaks) ¤ Galaxy Tab S | SMT-T700 | klimtwifi ¤ AICP 5.1.1
Yeah, It a bad battery connection, this happens to lots of 8.4" Tab S1, due we think to repeated bending of the tablet that loosens the battery connection, i have even read of an 8.4" owner that opened his tablet to find that the battery power connector had broken totally off the motherboard.
John.
Trying to post what i found everywhere...bought a galaxy s 8.4 for 60$ from a pawnshop, guy told me it it shut down all the time, and he didnt want to fool with it. Im a tech, so i figured why not....problem was at low power only, so rt off i bought a new battery, and thought that would solve it..No such luck, so after 3 days of flashing and tryin all kinds of roms etc. I determined that it must be hardware, so I started looking at the power plug. Keep in mind, I was now having the same problem so many people have with losing power, constant restarts for no reason, and it was worse then with the old battery. I took the back off, and pulled out my magnifying glass and looked at the plug for the battery. THE WHOLE PLUG WAS LOSE ON THE MOTHERBOARD. There are 6 connections from the battery to the board that go through a black molex recepticle..my problem and im sure alot of other peoples problem is Samsung has the pin that are in the plug, connected to the board with nothing more than solder strings. The pins dont mount into the board at all, I know because I took the whole board out and flipped it over. Nothing to even solder on the other side. I could move the black recepticle up and down and see that all 6 pins were unsoldered. So the fix was to buy a really small soldering iron and rosin core solder and try to tack the pins back to the board. It took a while because of the size, but just turned it on, and voila! everything works normally now. SO to bottom line it, if you have strange power issues, pop the back, VERY CAREFULLY pop the battery connector off and reseat, make sure to check those solder points, if everything seems good and you still have problems, you can go the new battery or hard reset route. Hope this helps someone
WTF respond
tried replace a battery, no luck
My friends, I have more new about this issue.
I found a hardware fix for this, but it requires some soldering skills.
It seems that power consumption is triggering the baterry power protection.
I manage to bypass the battery protection circuit on the battery and it solves the power cycles.
If anyone wants help on this, I will try do take some pictures.
I also re-solder the power connector on the table PCB because it is weekly soldered...
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PandaKiller said:
My friends, I have more new about this issue.
I found a hardware fix for this, but it requires some soldering skills.
It seems that power consumption is triggering the baterry power protection.
I manage to bypass the battery protection circuit on the battery and it solves the power cycles.
If anyone wants help on this, I will try do take some pictures.
I also re-solder the power connector on the table PCB because it is weekly soldered...
View attachment 5161979
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had similar problem in the past, my tab s' screen would flicker and abruptly restarted if the battery level fell below 39%. So I just reseated the battery connector I didn't resolder anything, problem went away. However recently my device would take a very long time to charge..It is unusually slow, I already change the cable or the brick. still same. So I'm planning to resolder the pins soon..Can you explain in detail what you did to bypass the battery protection circuit? Is it necessary?
vaah said:
I had similar problem in the past, my tab s' screen would flicker and abruptly restarted if the battery level fell below 39%. So I just reseated the battery connector I didn't resolder anything, problem went away. However recently my device would take a very long time to charge..It is unusually slow, I already change the cable or the brick. still same. So I'm planning to resolder the pins soon..Can you explain in detail what you did to bypass the battery protection circuit? Is it necessary?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you look, at the top of the baterry there are 2 white wires soldered in the baterry PCB.
I just connect the battery terminals to the red/black cables that goes to the Tablet pcb cable.
Hello!
so, I don't know why i didn't post my problem before but, here I am.
I have two xiaomi mi a2 lite international version bought in argentina, one with android stock fully upgraded and the other with havoc.
the problem is:
sometimes the battery charges at like 1400ma (or something along those lines) and the majority of the time charges at 500ma and sometimes 0ma or even -100ma (this info is taken mostly from accubattery)
I've already changed the charging board on both(for other reasons) but this didn't solve the problem
I have 3 chargers (each with its own cable) and all of them behave the same.(i could have tree ****ty cables? could be, the cables are not the expensive ones)
here some screenshots: accubattery and at the bottom of the lock screen on the havoc ROM
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for what i see accubattery always is a lot lower on the mA compared with the lock screen
if anyone have a solution or troubleshooting process to check whats happening i will appreciate it.(this is going for like for 3 months)
(I'm comfortable with disassembly and probing with multimeter if necessary / rooting / formating)
----edit----
sometimes when it shows negative numbers and on those cases does not charge or does very slowly
sometimes the phones charge like 5% on 2 hours or so, and this happens most of the time on the stock firmware phone, the havoc one always has been more reliable even before installing havoc
thank you in advance
PS:sorry for bad english c:
You understand that you won't get full charge rates with the screen on? The power controller ramps down the battery charge current as soon as the display is on to protect the battery.
Accubattery will momentarily display the off rate for about a second after you turn on the display; it's sampling rate is once a second. Battery history gives roughtly accurate screen off charge amount and time.
Many fast chargers will not engage if the battery start temperature is too low. Best start temperature for Li's is 82-90F, 72F minimum.
If battery temperature gets too high fast charging will disengage.
The brick and cable must support fast charging by meeting that device's protocols.
If it's a graphene battery it's low temperature parameters are likely similar.
blackhawk said:
You understand that you won't get full charge rates with the screen on? The power controller ramps down the battery charge current as soon as the display is on to protect the battery.
Accubattery will momentarily display the off rate for about a second after you turn on the display; it's sampling rate is once a second. Battery history gives roughtly accurate screen off charge amount and time.
Many fast chargers will not engage if the battery start temperature is too low. Best start temperature for Li's is 82-90F, 72F minimum.
If battery temperature gets too high fast charging will disengage.
The brick and cable must support fast charging by meeting that device's protocols.
If it's a graphene battery it's low temperature parameters are likely similar.
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yes, i know that, but as i mention on the post, sometimes it shous even negative numbers and on those cases does not charge. and i forget to mention, sometimes the phones charge like 5% on 2 hours or so, and this happens most of the time on the stock firmware phone, the havoc one always has been more reliable even before installing havoc
Use know good brick/cable.
Consider a battery failure if capacity has diminished significantly especially quickly.
Any swelling is a battery failure.
Otherwise a charge port pcb or mobo failure.
If happening on more than one device, is the brick getting clean AC? Hot/neutral vs hot/ground wires are correct on wall socket? Voltage correct? Generally they are fairly insensitive to voltage fluctuations but if it falls too low they will charge slowly.
A power surge may have damaged one or more chargers but normally they are just dead when that happens.
blackhawk said:
Use know good brick/cable.
Consider a battery failure if capacity has diminished significantly especially quickly.
Any swelling is a battery failure.
Otherwise a charge port pcb or mobo failure.
If happening on more than one device, is the brick getting clean AC? Hot/neutral vs hot/ground wires are correct on wall socket? Voltage correct? Generally they are fairly insensitive to voltage fluctuations but if it falls too low they will charge slowly.
A power surge may have damaged one or more chargers but normally they are just dead when that happens.
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capacity its ok
not swelling
port pcb changed recently
mobo maybe
for what i know on my house, hot-neutral are inverted(yeah idk what was thinking the dude that wire this place) this could be a problem?
will try charging with an stabilizer and check if voltage fluctuation is a problem.
PS: thank you a lot
thiagosch said:
capacity its ok
not swelling
port pcb changed recently
mobo maybe
for what i know on my house, hot-neutral are inverted(yeah idk what was thinking the dude that wire this place) this could be a problem?
will try charging with an stabilizer and check if voltage fluctuation is a problem.
PS: thank you a lot
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Inverted is the same for the charger.
Makes you wonder about who did the wiring though. Might not be a bad idea the check the main breaker box sometime.
Something putting high frequency spikes on the line might mess with it.
Try another circuit in the house.
blackhawk said:
Inverted is the same for the charger.
Makes you wonder about who did the wiring though. Might not be a bad idea the check the main breaker box sometime.
Something putting high frequency spikes on the line might mess with it.
Try another circuit in the house.
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sometime ago i checked the box for this particular reason, i was measuring earth(because some home appliances were shocking me, yep also some grounds were disconnected and thrown inside a junction box) and found out that they were inverted, and its from the main breaker input, i could fix it but i don't trust that no one is going to flip the outside main switch on while i have a wire on my hand.
oh... high frecuency spikes could come from a fridge without ground? I've never checked the fridge socket because is behind it, may well be running without ground...
--edit--
just checked, fridge has ground
thiagosch said:
oh... high frecuency spikes could come from a fridge without ground? I've never checked the fridge socket because is behind it, may well be running without ground...
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Probably not. Try a different circuit though.